Image: Givaudan.
Jacques Huclier made his mark in spectacular fashion in 1996 when Mugler A*Men EDT was unleashed on the market. An audacious gourmand with lashings of caramel, coffee and patchouli, there was nothing like it at the time. More than 20 years later, this love-it-or-hate-it EDT is still in production. Its succession of flankers, all created by Jacques Huclier, is proof that not all follow-ups are a case of diminishing returns.
While Jacques Huclier will always be known for Mugler A*Men, there’s far more to the Frenchman than this association. Over the years, he has produced numerous other notable fragrances. These include:
- Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci EDP (2009)
- Gucci Guilty Pour Homme EDT (2011)
- Davidoff Horizon EDT (2016)
- Azzaro Chrome Pure EDT (2017)
- Boucheron Quatre Absolue de Nuit Pour Homme (2017)
- Roberto Cavalli Imperial Hyacinth EDP (2018)
His work for Map of the Heart deserves a special mention. He began collaborating with this Australian niche fragrance brand in 2014.
Why is perfumery so important to you?
Perfume is my passion and an olfactive art – it is about both creation and creativity. It is always a challenge to create the perfect and most relevant fragrance. I relish this creative challenge due to my competitive spirit. I find the creative process of designing a fragrance tremendously exciting; it brings out the best in you when your ultimate goal is to win.
What do you remember most from studies at ISIPCA?
ISIPCA is where I discovered the fascinating world of the senses, the amazing power of the sense of smell and the beauty of fragrance. It is also where I met fabulous and inspiring perfumers and knew this was the right career path for me.
“I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance.”
What didn’t they teach you at ISIPCA that you learned through experience?
I learned resilience. A most important and critical lesson! I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance. But I also noticed how exciting it is to develop beautiful accords and fragrances – it was already a real source of great happiness.
Did you have a mentor in your career?
Olivier Cresp and Pierre Bourdon were early mentors of mine. I had the wonderful and fortunate opportunity to work alongside them and to watch how they work and create.
INSPIRATION: Olivier Cresp was one of Jacques Huclier’s mentors.
How do you go about creating a fragrance?
I always start with a strong accord and signature. Uniqueness is key for me. At the same time, a fragrance has to be wearable, pleasant and deliver emotion.
My method is to work with short formulas as often as I can to ensure the result is a clear message. This allows me to control the formula and to really understand the balance of the ingredients.
Research is also an important part of my creative method. I immerse myself in the brand or the individual I am designing for. I will visit a brand’s store, observe the consumer, experience the brand and the lifestyle.
You’re probably most well known for your Mugler A*Men creations. A blessing or a curse?
My Mugler A*Men creations are very meaningful to me. It’s been a blessing to collaborate with this iconic designer, who’s known for disruption and his own signature. A*Men was the first fragrance to use a coffee note. I am so proud of this fragrance and amazed by its fan community, who are highly loyal to it. It gives me great pleasure to smell someone wearing it when I walk down the street and catch their scent.
You’ve produced a number of fragrances for Map of the Heart. Why do you enjoy working with this brand?
It’s been over five years since I started my collaboration with the Map of the Heart team. This brand is true haute parfumerie and working with it allows me complete creative freedom without boundaries. It is a wonderful partnership with Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling [the company’s co-founders], as we have common knowledge and a synergy in our creative process. We share a passion for travel – always seeking unique atmospheres and destinations for our inspiration. I treasure this original brand and our special relationship.
What would people be surprised to know about Jacques Huclier?
How adventurous I am as an intrepid explorer. I love sailing, hiking and travelling the world. These passions give me perspective, to see things from different angles, as well as a feeling of total freedom. There is nothing like the open sea before you, the wind in your sails, and the excitement of what you might discover.
For more info on Map of the Heart, read here.
Great interview. What an interesting man! He seems so nice and humble too.
Big thank you, Sam! Absolutely. In all my communications with him, he was always so polite and helpful.