Vegan Fragrances 101: Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP + Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP Reviews

Vegan Fragrances

A walk down the aisles of your local supermarket will confirm that veganism (and a part- or full-time commitment to a plant-based diet) is now completely mainstream. So it was just a matter of time before vegan fragrances became a thing.

Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.

“Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.”

Two brands – Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn – were recently launched in South Africa. Both focus on vegan fragrances for those who’re increasingly concerned about the ethical and environmental consequences of their consumption.

Vegan Fragrances

Personally, I have no issue with the use of beeswax or honey when they are sourced responsibly and sustainably. And I would gladly wear a perfume containing ambergris, the precious ingredient secreted by sperm whales. It becomes a bit murkier with the use of animalic notes like civet, which were at one stage an integral part of classics such as Chanel Coco, Danu Tabu and YSL Kouros.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: woolworths.co.za.

I did a bit of quick research and discovered that leading South African retailer Woolworths has an extensive selection of vegan fragrances in its WBeauty range. According to Totally Vegan Buzz, vegan-friendly brands include Lush, Le Labo, Clean, Stella McCartney, Gallivant and Eden. I also noticed that in its marketing for cK Everyone, Calvin Klein gives a lot of attention to its vegan formula.

Vegan Fragrances

Two things to note:

  • If vegan fragrances are important to you, do your homework regarding the legitimacy of a brand’s claims. For example, have they been certified by an organisation such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta)?
  • Just because a brand isn’t vegan doesn’t mean it condones cruelty to animals.

And now onto the reviews of these two vegan fragrances that have recently caught my nose.

ELLIS BROOKLYN MYTH EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

This NYC-based company was founded by New York Times beauty columnist Bee Shapiro (pictured, below) in 2015 after she gave birth to her first child and became serious about “clean” beauty.

Vegan Fragrances

Myth was part of the brand’s launch range and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of their best sellers.

It opens with a silky-sleek waft of powdery ambrette, the naturally derived musk, supported by notes of green cassis and crisp bergamot. The trio of florals that follows – tiger orchid, pink lotus, jasmine petals – is pretty indeed, in an airy, fresh and delicately sweet style. The drydown is sensually soft, with notes of white musk, patchouli and white cedar.

This eminently likeable scent is compliment-bait, if that’s a part of your purchasing decision. But most importantly, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance.

Vegan Fragrances

All Ellis Brooklyn fragrances are paraben-, phthalates- and cruelty-free, and Petacertified vegan. They come in glass bottles from an Ecocert supplier and the Bakelite caps are made without the use of petroleum or its byproducts. – Brand website.

FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

The founder of this British brand, Michelle Feeney (pictured, below) , comes with major credentials. Before launching her company in 2017, she worked in senior roles for La Mer, MAC Cosmetics and St Tropez, among others.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: floralstreet.com.

As its name and pay-off line (“powered by flowers”) will tell you, all their fragrances have a floral focus.

Although Arizona Bloom, a Fragrance Foundation 2021 Awards finalist, is inspired by an arid landscape, it puts me in a holiday mood every time I wear it. That must be the creamy vanilla-ish Balinese coconut, with a hint of warm Madagascan black pepper, in the intro. Jasmine, fresh and honeyed, adds to the sunny vacay vibe, the sweetness tempered by a salty musk accord and oakmoss as it dries down.

Vegan Fragrances

All Floral Street packaging is reusable, recyclable or biodegradable. Vegan and cruelty-free, they’re certified by Peta. Each fragrance comes inside a pulp carton with an embossed lid, made from recyclable paper packaging and held together with a re-usable band. This eco-friendly box can be repurposed to hold keepsakes, herbal teas, jewellery or as a seed tray for plants and herbs. – Brand website.

Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn products (fragrances, candles, bath and body) are available at Woolworths.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue 20th Anniversary: An Interview With Its Creator, Olivier Cresp

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: Firmenich.

Even those with only a passing interest in fragrance will have heard of Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue. Launched in 2001, its evocation of the sun, sea and sensuality of a southern Italy summer has been a huge commercial success for the luxury fashion brand.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

A large part of its success is down to the expertise of Olivier Cresp. The French master perfumer has produced hits such as Givenchy Ange ou Demon (2006), Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling (2011), Versace Eros Pour Femme (2014) and YSL Mon Paris (2016). And let’s not forget the ground-breaking Mugler Angel, which kick-started all things gourmand in 1992.

Cresp was recognised for his numerous accomplishments when The Fragrance Foundation gave him the Lifetime Achievement Award in 2018.

He talks to Fragroom about Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue’s popularity, powerful formula and the latest iteration, Light Blue Forever.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Congratulations on the 20th anniversary of Light Blue. Why does it have such enduring appeal?

Thank you. I’m very proud to have created Light Blue.

The fragrance’s concept is universal: love. I am a romantic at heart; eternal love has always enchanted me. It did when I first created Light Blue in 2001 and it continues to mesmerise me today.

“It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is.”

It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is: the first look, kiss and moments together, as well as the milestones that come later: anniversaries, children and grandchildren. Timeless and contemporary, Light Blue has adapted to every generation over time.

Its popularity is linked with its luminosity and freshness. There’s something about Italy and, in particular, Sicily, a place of importance to the Dolce & Gabbana creators [Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana].

SOMETHING ABOUT SICILY: The Italian island is a place of importance to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Image: visitsicily.com.

Did you know you were onto a winner when you created it?

As perfumers, we never really know what’s going to be a great success. That said, Light Blue is one of my favourite creations and I have always believed in its power.

In some ways, Light Blue is a victim of its own success, because it’s so popular and therefore some people automatically dislike it. Does that bother you at all?

As soon as we started testing Light Blue, people’s reactions were nothing but positive; perhaps something about sharing this idea of love has created that effect.

I’ve never seen anyone reject this fragrance; it’s not a polarising one. In fact, I wear it often as it fits well on my skin, and I know other men wear it as well.

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

Light Blue is a great example of the use of synthetics and naturals. tell us more about that.

The fragrance has a powerful but minimalist formula. It’s composed of 25 ingredients, including a natural overdose of 10% lemon essence.

Featuring some wonderful captive molecules from Firmenich [the company he works for], the fragrance can be imitated, but never perfectly reproduced: woods, musks, amber and jasmine floral notes, as well as a crunchy Granny Smith apple. Without this harmony, the deep sensuality and unique light in Light Blue could not exist.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

The naturalness of the ingredients are prolonged by the innovative molecules. Together, the olfactive lightness gives you an infinite sensation of bright sunlight, crystal water, tanned skin and intense heat.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

SUN, SEA AND SKIN: Bianca Balti and David Gandy in the Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue ad. Image: dolcegabbana.com.

There’s been no shortage of flankers over the years. How did you approach the creation of Light Blue Forever to ensure it stays faithful to the original while offering something new?

I captured the joie de vivre and Mediterranean sensuality of Light Blue, and I enhanced the pillars of the perfume as if to multiply them tenfold: the essence of lemon, the apple, the white floral bouquet and the cedar. These are the olfactive threads that prolong eternal love in Light Blue.

For Light Blue Forever for Her, I insisted on the solar facets of the original fragrance, through both sparkling and luminous notes. I reinforced the floral heart with orange blossom to make it bloom bigger, without making it too dense or heavy.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

Finally, I used the latest generation of woods and musks to elevate and anchor the sparkling notes of the fragrance, enveloping the Light Blue signature with a contemporary sensual touch.

I wanted to make it very luminous and solar, inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and the orange blossoms found all along the coast. While there are still the lemony apple notes, the main accord is the orange blossom which brings strength, modernity, solar luminosity and warmth.

Did you have carte blanche in its creation, or was it a tight brief?

When we got the marketing brief from D&G, I did have carte blanche.  However, I don’t start from scratch because I must work from the original Light Blue.

“It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story.”

It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story. How do you improve eternal love?

The overall addictive sensation of Light Blue Forever, shaped around warm and multisensorial notes, is more universal, without crossing into gourmand territory.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

What’s next for Light Blue?

There is always another story of love to share. In fact, I am already working on the next one, but it must remain secret for the time being. However, I can tell you that even the next one will always be connected to the Light Blue masterpiece.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense and Dolce & Gabbana Light Forever EDP are available at Woolworths.