FRAGRANCE REVIEWS Archives

April 6, 2024

Bulgari Man In Black Parfum Review

It’s been 10 years since Bulgari Man in Black EDP became a huge hit for the Italian luxury jewellery brand. Even inveterate niche snobs succumbed to its undeniable allure. Will the recently launched Bulgari Man in Black Parfum be equally popular?

PERFUMER

Alberto Morillas is no stranger to the Bulgari Man franchise. In fact, since its inception in 2010, he has created all the fragrances in the range. So no surprise to see the maestro behind Bulgari Man in Black Parfum.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for dsm-firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum - Alberto Morillas

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

If you want to know why Alberto Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT (1996), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Amouage Journey Man EDP (2014), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

It’s spice and all things very nice with a combo of cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper in the opening. Sometimes it’s more peppery on my skin, which could be the elemi* at work.

It goes in a floral direction with tuberose (always welcome in male fragrances), building on the warmth of the opening. The white floral has a reputation for being animalic, but the perfumer focuses on its creaminess instead, with powdery iris in the background.

With the perfume’s name, it’s welcome to the darker side in the drydown, but in an accessible way. There’s rich earthiness from patchouli and cypriol, while benzoin gives it an element of soft vanilla-ish sweetness.

Is that you I hear wanting to know about the rum booziness that was such an integral part of the original’s appeal? It’s one of the first things I looked out for when I started wearing Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s not featured in this one. But there’s more than enough to compensate for its absence.

The various elements come together to produce a fragrance that while smooth and sophisticated presents plenty of depth and character. I expect quality from Bulgari and the brand doesn’t disappoint with this latest addition to one of the more dependable designer franchises.

*As Alberto Morillas works for dsm-firmenich, it’s also good to see this parfum reflecting the company’s increasing commitment to responsibly sourced ingredients. For example, the elemi from the Philippines (the resin is hand harvested by farmers from July to March) comes from an established partnership that includes a digital system, Path2Farm, guaranteeing the traceability of the raw material from farm to final product.

THE PARFUM FACTOR

What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the deluge of parfums on the market, especially from big designer brands.

As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and extrait de parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.

If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about parfums, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.

If an eau fraiche (anything from 1 – 3%) and eau de cologne (2 – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then a parfum is the highest (20 to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.

EARTHLY ELEGANCE: Launched in 2009 and created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Terre d’Hermès Parfum is one of the best parfums, designer or otherwise.

To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. We’re looking at you Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Le Parfum EDP Intense and others like it.

The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s a parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.

LEATHER REPORT: Released in 2018, way before the current invasion, Cartier Déclaration Parfum is another fine example of the genre.

Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s a parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?

Which brings me back to Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s a parfum in terms of the concentration of ingredients, BUT it’s not dreaded beast-mode stuff. This is all good for me. I’ll certainly add it to the list of designer (and other) parfums I hold in high regard.

OTHER FRAGRANCES IN THE BULGARI MAN RANGE

With his credentials, Alberto Morillas is one of the few perfumers to create the original and all subsequent flankers in ranges such as Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, Gucci Bloom and Bvlgari Man. Perhaps it’s part of the contract when he wins yet another brief.

Those marked with ** have been discontinued but are well worth seeking out. However, don’t pay crazy money for them just because I recommend them.

BULGARI MAN EDT (2010)**

The line makes its debut and sets the tone for future versions with its chic feel. Includes standout notes of violet leaf, bergamot, vetiver, Cashmeran and honey.

BULGARI MAN IN BLACK EDP (2014)

One of the best iterations, it opens with an irresistible trio of spice, rum and tobacco notes. They’re perfectly blended and balanced.

The sensual mood continues with smooth leather and a hint of powdery iris. The tonka bean, guaiac wood and benzoin notes in the drydown have a sophisticated vanilla-ish facet.

A snug treat.

**BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)**

Lots of spice, leather and oud + a bit of rum booziness and florals (tuberose, rose) = oriental with major sex appeal.

**BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)**

Rum meets the freshness and greenery of citrus, then deftly contrasted with the sunny white florals of tuberose and orange blossom. An amber accord, benzoin and sandalwood up the creamy warmth.

BULGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (2018)

After all that rum booziness, the range takes a more sober direction with a trio of woodiness – cypress, cedar, vetiver – supported by the fresh spiciness of lemon and coriander.

The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Signature scent material, if that’s your thing.

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (2019)

A citrusy spin on its predecessor. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedarwood and cypriol oil.

There’s a big dose of Ambrox in this creation, which, depending on your view on this synthetic form of ambergris, will be good or bad news. It’s enhanced by a white musk note.

Not the most exciting fragrance, but it will make you feel good.

BULGARI MAN GLACIAL ESSENCE EDP (2020)

No prizes for guessing that with a name like Glacial Essence, this is a freshie.

Juniper berries, cool and aromatic, stand out in the opening. There’s a hint of spicy ginger in the background. A note of Australian sandalwood brings creamy smoothness to the composition, while orris root does its powdery thing.

And now for some science (which perfumery is often about). Clearwood features in the drydown. This synthetic molecule from dsm-firmenich is a softer and airier version of patchouli and completes the scent in a clean and modern way.

BULGARI MAN TERRAE ESSENCE EDP (2021)

Zesty citron leads the way to vetiver and orris concrete, their woodiness complemented by just the right amount of sensual smokiness and spiciness via resinous styrax.

Seemingly straightforward stuff, but compelling nevertheless in a dry style.

BULGARI MAN RAIN ESSENCE EDP (2023)

The opening is slightly citric (orange) and somewhat green and herbal (green tea). The latter features often in Bulgari fragrances, which should come as no surprise – the brand has the distinction of launching the first tea scent in 1992 (the Jean-Claude Ellena creation Bulgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert EDC). The white lotus accord contributes a floral and aquatic aspect, without going overboard on the waterworks.

Alberto Morillas is known for his love of and expertise with musks and while there’s plenty of that powderiness here, it’s not overpowering.

The warm amber accord in the drydown is joined by the musky-spicy tones of guaiac wood.

If I’m being fussy and literal, it doesn’t necessarily make me think of rain when I wear it. But it certainly has the rejuvenating qualities of that element, so mission accomplished.

April 1, 2024

5 REASONS TO LOVE DOLLY PARTON*

1) From her dirt-poor Tennessee background (one of 12 children) to 100 million+ records sold, she’s a pop culture institution.

2) Don’t be fooled by the larger-than-life persona, she’s a smart businesswoman with an estimated worth of $650 million. Apart from the rights to her songs, she’s the force behind Dollywood theme and water parks, diners, merchandise, books and more.

IMAGE: Maverick Family Life blog.

3) She can laugh at herself while laughing all the way to the bank, with memorable quotes such as:

“If I hadn’t been a woman, I’d have been a drag queen”,

“The higher your hair, the closer you are to God”,

“It costs a lot to look this cheap”, and

“I’m not offended by all the dumb blonde jokes because I know I’m not dumb… and I know I’m not blonde.”

IMAGE: shop.dollyparton.com

4) Despite the increasingly rabid polarisation of American politics, she’s remained resolutely apolitical, which only increases her broad appeal.

5) Proving there’s still life in the genre, she joined the celeb fragrance game in 2021 with Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP.

IMAGE: dollyfragrance.com

As with many in the category, it’s sweet, but Dolly’s undeniable charm must be working on me (it always does). Its fruity-floral aspect (peony, pear, blackcurrant, jasmine) meets the woody depths of sandalwood, patchouli and fir album, underscored by powdery musk, hits the D-spot with its uplifting quality.

In my recent interview with perfumer Gabriela Chelariu, she had this to say about working with the superstar on Dolly Scent From Above EDP.

“Dolly Parton is one of the most gracious people I have worked with. Although I’ve never met her in person, she was deeply involved in developing the fragrance and was precise in what she wanted it to be.

“I refined it until she found the signature she envisioned. I remember every time she wanted another adjustment, she always apologised thinking that she is too demanding. She is very considerate and has a lot of respect for the creative process, being a creative force herself.”

*This isn’t no April Fool’s joke, y’all.

Dolly Scent From Above EDP is available from Scent Beauty.

March 16, 2024

Cedar Fragrances: Fresh To Surprisingly Sensual

One of the main woods in perfumery, cedar has a special place in my heart for its versatility and integral role in building impactful woody accords.

Part of the conifer family, the main varieties include Atlas (from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco), Lebanon (the tree is represented on the country’s flag) and Himalayan.

IMAGE: Freepik.

Did you know the commonly used Virginia is not a true cedar and is actually from the juniper family? Now, you do.

There are also several synthetic cedars, including cedryl acetate, Cedrol, Vertofix and Cedramber.

So how does cedar smell, apart from, um, woody? That would depend on the variety and the combo of materials used by the perfumer, of course. But in general, it ranges from the fresh and resinous to earthy and pencil shaving-like (the wood is used to make pencils) and even leathery. It’s also more sensual than you might realise.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

SERGE LUTENS FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS EDP (CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE & PIERRE BOURDON)

Always a good place to start with an innovative classic in the genre. And this 1992 release from the French niche house (originally created for the Japanese beauty brand Shiseido) sets the bar very high too. At the time, cedar was seen as a masculine note and perfumers Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon took it in a more feminine direction (hence the fragrance’s name).

Taking its inspiration from the honeyed smells emanating from leather stalls in Morocco, it surrounds deep Atlas cedar with fruity (plum, peach), spicy (cinnamon, cloves), floral (orange blossom, violet) and creamy (sandalwood, benzoin) accents.

The result? An incredibly sensual experience which, more than 30 years later, even though reformulated, has lost none of its revolutionary beauty. And for the record, it’s perfectly unisex, in case you’re freaked out about the “féminité” bit.

Cedar - Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois EDP

IMAGE: Serge Lutens.

ORMONDE JAYNE ISFARKAND EDP (GEZA SCHOEN)

When I interviewed Ormonde Jayne founder Linda Pilkington, she spoke about the origins of this 2005 release.

“One of our best-selling perfumes, a short formula, and originally made for my husband when he was 40 years old,” she said. “He got so many compliments on it, I had to bring it into the range.”

Its popularity is easy to understand. The opening is citrus-crisp with notes of lime, bergamot and mandarin orange. Adding to the sharpness, a herbal take on pink pepper makes way for the earthiness of cedar, vetiver and oakmoss in the drydown.

The epitome of elegance.

**KILIAN STRAIGHT TO HEAVEN EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)**

There’s no missing the dark booziness in the opening of this 2007 release from the French niche brand’s The Cellars Collection, thanks to a shot of rum.

It’s quite intense, so give it time to settle with the creaminess of vanilla, the sensual stickiness of dried fruit and the earthiness of nutmeg. The drydown sees the warm spiciness of patchouli contrasted with the freshness of cedar.

It’s not as animalic as the brand makes it out to be, but that doesn’t stop it from being a wonderfully rich treat.

**COMME DES GARÇONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE)**

If I was in the perfume-naming business, I might call this 2010 release from the Japanese brand “Wonderwoods”, because there’s an assortment of woods going down here, including cedar, sandalwood and guaiac wood.

CDG has never shied away from synthetics and they play their part too in the appeal of this scent, especially Javanol (clean and creamy sandalwood) and Cashmeran, with its musky-woody vibe. They’re infused with the earthy spiciness of black pepper and nutmeg and smokiness of incense.

The brand describes it as “wood gone mad”. I describe it as soothing and distinctive.

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS GREEN SAPPHIRE PARFUM**

The British niche company has produced a mind-boggling array of scents (heading for the 200 mark any day now) since its founding in 2008, so sifting the best from the rest is a project in itself. This 2016 release is one of their standouts.

The opening is rich with the rosy fruitiness of raspberry and spicy leatheriness of saffron. There’s an element of freshness from a note of violet leaf too. Pine gives it aromatic appeal and sets it on a forest-y-woody path to the drydown featuring creamy sandalwood, the pencil shaving-like softness of Atlas cedar and oriental warmth of Dehnal oud (this variety of the precious ingredient is known for its quality). It’s not officially listed but there’s certainly the synthetic Cashmeran, with its woody muskiness, in the mix.

You’ll get compliments, people will want to be your best friend when you wear this stuff. Not that I wear fragrances for those reasons, but it is that good.

**BYREDO SUPER CEDAR EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

Super indeed. As in ISO E Super. Discovered by John B Hall and James M Sanders in 1973, the synthetic is known for its silky cedar-ish properties. Perfumer Geza Schoen created a major sensation when he showcased it on its own, as a scent in itself, in Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 EDT (2006).

In the 2016 release from the Swedish niche brand, it gives the combo of rose, Virginian cedar, vetiver and musk an uplifting spin.

A minimalist composition, yes, but big on the gratification.

BVLGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

If you’re going to do the signature fragrance thing, this creation from the Italian luxury jewellery brand is the way to go.

After all the boozy rumm-iness of Bvlgari Man in Black EDP (2014), Bvlgari Man Black Orient EDP (2016) and Man Black Cologne EDT (2016), the range took a more sober direction with a focus on natural elements, starting with Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP in 2018.

The aromatics of cypress and smoothness of cedar mingle with the earthiness of vetiver to deliver all the elegant woodiness you could possibly want, with fresh ’n spicy assistance from citrus and coriander. The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Class in glass.

**PENHALIGON’S HALFETI CEDAR EDP* (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)**

The original Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (2015) was a big hit for the British heritage brand with its spice and oud blend. It was followed by Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather EDP in 2020. Who says niche brands don’t do flankers à la designers, I grumbled to myself smugly, as I thought the range would taper off into predictable mediocrity.

Well, I was wrong. Very wrong. The 2020 release Penhaligon’s Halfeti Cedar EDP is the best one yet.

There’s a whole lot of boozy fruitiness going on at first with peach, dried fruit and rum notes at the fore. And then something almost metallic (that must be the mineral accord in the official notes) together with the powderiness of cinnamon. Intriguing… The Atlas cedar is resinous- and balsamic-rich, with vanilla rounding it off with spicy creaminess.

Now, I know why the bottle is so dark…

CHOPARD CEDAR MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

If you’ve been keeping up with the releases from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, you’ll know they have seriously upped their game in recent years.

A 2023 addition to the Middle Eastern-influenced Malaki range, Chopard Cedar Malaki EDP opens with the aromatics of cardamom, cypress and lavender. There’s a herbal dimension from artemisia, with just the right amount of bitterness. With two types of cedar (Atlas and Lebanon), the effect of this creation is warm and slightly camphor-ish. The amber accord in the drydown is big on the muskiness of labdanum and earthy spiciness of cypriol and patchouli.

The reasonable price ensures the olfactory pleasure keeps on coming.

*Available from Skins Cosmetics.

**Available from Galeries de Parfums.

February 20, 2024

Thameen: 10 Of The Best Fragrances

Thameen, the British niche brand that takes its inspiration from precious gems and treasures, had been under-performing for a while, despite the evident quality of their fragrances since launching in 2013.

That’s all changing with the appointment of Christopher Chong as creative director. He helped Amouage become the powerhouse it is today during his 12 years at the Oman-based brand. And no doubt the owner of Thameen, Basel Binjabr, wants some of the same magic too.

IMAGE: Thameen.

Chong’s influence is already evident in the launch of the Britologne Collection and the collaboration with (and acknowledgement) of top perfumers for the London-based house.

I take you through their best releases. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

THAMEEN CARVED OUD EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

It seems every niche brand must have an oud fragrance or two in their repertoire. While it’s not hyped as much as others in the genre, this 2013 release should more than satiate your precious ingredient fix.

The spicy-aromatic intro is on the quiet side. It allows the oud (sourced from the south of India) to take centre stage with its richness. Cedarwood and patchouli amplify the woody profile.

The powdery iris facet segues ever so smoothly into the drydown where creamy sandalwood and earthy vetiver stand out.

A fine debut, along with Amber Room, Moon of Baroda, Noorolain Taif and Peacock Throne.

THAMEEN GREEN PEARL EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The website blurb for this 2016 release (inspired by the glowing fluorite pearls from China) promises “a soothing and calming mood”. When so beautifully executed, how could I say no.

The intro is all about the crisp freshness of bergamot. Notes of apple and neroli set it on a green path, with a hint of sweet sunniness from mandarin orange. There’s more greenery of the aromatic-herbal variety from tea and artemisia (nothing too bitter), with a twist of spicy black pepper in the background. The drydown is earthy in style, with oakmoss and musk providing the finishing touches.

I’ve added it to my list of favourite greens.

THAMEEN DIADEM EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

Frankincense (also known as olibanum), derived from the resin of the trunk of the Boswellia tree, always gets my attention. And it’s especially captivating in this 2018 release.

Here, the precious ingredient (sourced from Oman) is at its complex fresh and spicy best, with aromatic assistance from lavender and cardamom. It’s an integral part of this fragrance’s amber accord that also takes in the creaminess of vanilla absolute and earthiness of patchouli.

When combined with floral notes of saffron and rose, the result is heavenly indeed.

THAMEEN SCEPTRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s a fair amount of pepperiness in the opening of this 2018 release. Perhaps too much for some.

Don’t walk away just yet, as the notes of peach and ylang-ylang provide a welcome fruity contrast, while the wisteria note is pushed in a spicy direction too. The amber accord in the drydown highlights the warm balsamic tones of Somali myrrh and Siam benzoin.

Highly recommended if lots of sensual spice is your thing.

THAMEEN IMPERIAL CROWN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

With its inspiration – the State Imperial Crown in the Tower of London – I was expecting a lot from this 2018 addition to the Sovereign Collection. And it doesn’t disappoint.

The contrast between fresh and warm spiciness from notes of black pepper, pink pepper and elemi makes for an appealing opening.

The balsamic, citrus tones of the latter (often used in incense) complements the wondrous wafts of Somali frankincense. Some more info about this ingredient, which as we know was brought by the Three Wise Men, along with gold and myrrh, on their visit to Jesus after his birth (that’s how precious it is).

The resin is sourced from trees of the Boswellia species and in this perfume, it’s beautifully aromatic and woody. I trust the brand is using ethically sourced frankincense, as there is much controversy about exploitative practices in the production of this ingredient.

Okay, now where was I? Oh yes, there’s a mildly animalic leather accord in the mix, which is amplified by the smoky tones of guaiac wood and earthiness of patchouli in the drydown.

Thoroughly intriguing stuff.

THAMEEN PEREGRINA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s lots of online love for this 2019 release and all well deserved.

Damask rose, lush and almost honeyed, stands out among the heady bouquet of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes. It goes in a gorgeously gourmand direction with the creaminess of vanilla and caramel. Myrrh adds a balsamic oriental layer. The powderiness of white musk is boosted in the drydown with some clever effects.

It’s undeniably sweet, but so well done, I’m back for more.

THAMEEN ROYAL SAPPHIRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The name alone sounds terrifically aristocratic and with its inspiration from the St Edwards Sapphire (apparently the oldest gemstone in the British royal collection), this 2019 release radiates quality.

Bergamot and mandarin introduce citric sunniness to the composition. It’s fresh and on the right side of sweetness. Jasmine (intense and heady) is partnered with beautifully rendered orange blossom (honeyed and sensual). Their indolic character is given sparkle ’n shine with the synthetic Ambroxan. Patchouli and moss balance the slight sweetness with earthiness.

Uplifting stuff!

THAMEEN CULLINAN DIAMOND EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

When a fragrance is named after the world’s largest rough diamond, it needs to be an impressively grand affair. And that’s exactly what this 2021 release does with elegant flair.

Starting with the bright spiciness of black pepper, it moves onto a suitably regal interpretation of the queen of florals (rose) laced with creamy vanilla and earthy orris. Skilful use of the rather fancy-sounding Cashmere Musk (FYI: a compound of synthetics and essential oils) brings it all together in a most sensual way.

It’s warm, it’s powdery, it’s slightly animalic. In fact, it’s rather lovely.

THAMEEN BRAVI COLOGNE ELIXIR (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

Christopher Chong joined Thameen in 2022 as their creative director. He’s been a busy boy collaborating with top perfumers on the Britologne Collection (Fanfare, Bohemian Infusion, Bravi) that debuted in 2023.

All three are well worth sniffing out if you want modern interpretations of the cologne style but with more oomph and elements of the unexpected. I’ll focus on Bravi here.

It begins innocently enough with lots of zesty ginger supported by the spicy freshness of bergamot and bitter orange. Things get more seductive as tuberose gets the honeyed and milky treatment. The white floral is prominent without being over-powering but is still not one for beginners. The softly caramel tones of tobacco mingle with creamy vanilla in the warm drydown.

I love the contrasts (fresh and warm, innocent and carnal, classic and contemporary) in this one.

Thameen fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

December 2, 2023

Puredistance Papilio: A Tale Of Synchronicity

[Will be doing this Puredistance Papilio post differently. Hope it’s indulgent, rather than self-indulgent.

Visual treatment note: In line with the brand’s policy of minimising waste, I’ve deliberately used the bubble wrap the goods arrived in.]

Niche ain’t what it used to be. That will come as no surprise to you. No need to mention any names but so many brands are increasingly corporate in their approach.

I’ve wanted to try Puredistance for a long time and got the opportunity when fellow blogger Undina recommended me to the Dutch company (based in the city of Groningen, away from all the hoopla) as part of their PR activities around their latest launch, Puredistance Papilio.

The way I was contacted by brand founder / creative director Jan Ewoud Vos – personal and direct – made an impression from the start. Then the box of goods arrived.

It took me a couple of weeks to open and explore it all. I read the book The Story of Puredistance 2002-2022 (written by former blogger Birgit Oeckher of Olfactoria’s Travels fame) until I was ready to try Puredistance Papilio. This passage from the book sums up the Puredistance way rather nicely:

I held back on wearing Puredistance Papilio. It arrived at a time when I’ve been struggling with my feelings about another year whizzing by, auditing my achievements and questioning whether I should continue this blogging thing. (FYI: I do this annually around this time in my own reverse version of seasonal affective disorder.)

One inner voice telling me: “Get on with it, Richard. You need to get this post done. Don’t keep them waiting when they’ve been so kind to send you all these beautiful things.”

IN THE SHADOWS: Me reading The Story of Puredistance 2002-2022.

None of which helps matters, of course. So I told myself to take all the time I need to experience Puredistance Papilio. After all, part of the house’s ethos since its debut launch in 2007 has been about slowing down to enjoy the beauty in our world. I also decided not to obsess about notes and ingredients.

A zing of invigorating citric freshness at first.

From high intensity to the lower warm hum of something altogether more intriguing.

Not what I was expecting. But then what I was expecting?

Is that sensual leather?

Florals coming through. Not overpowering or heady variety. No need for performance fascism here.

Warmer and warmer. I can feel my skin almost glowing.

Muskiness in various forms in the drydown, yet those florals (lots of powderiness) keep coming back, as if adding colours.

Beautifully blended without any domineering aspects but each time I wear it (mostly at bedtime), I’m captivated by another aspect.

Now’s a good time to mention the inspiration for the scent (and I paraphrase from the press release here). Embrace your true nature, as a butterfly would through its various stages of metamorphosis (egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, butterfly).

How powerful is that. This verse from the poem written by Jan Ewoud that accompanies the perfume especially struck a chord with me. No wonder Nathalie Feisthauer (the independent Paris-based perfumer also created the 2021 release Puredistance No. 12) had tears in her eyes when Jan Ewoud discussed the idea of Puredistance Papilio with her.

The best kind of fragrances should make you feel something. And Puredistance Papilio certainly does that for me in ways that many others haven’t. While self-proclaimed Buddhist Jan Ewoud might see some of my emotions and my identification with the processes of change as attachment and projection, I can’t help feeling that the gifting of this perfume isn’t a mere coincidence. Whether I’m stuck in the chrysalis or liberated in the butterfly stage, that’s another story completely.

If niche is about absolute quality (ingredients, parfum concentration, collaborations with top perfumers), creativity, limited distribution (less than 100 retailers globally), personal connection, exclusivity and not being part of mindless more, more consumerism, Puredistance gets it so right.

Puredistance Papilio (25% pure parfum) is available in three sizes: 17.5ml spray, 60ml flacon and 100ml flacon (with a leather holder) from selected retailers worldwide.

Puredistance The Magnificent XII Collection

Puredistance Papilio joins The Magnificent XII Collection. There are always 12 fragrances in the range, but the one that sells the least is removed from distribution (but still available from the company directly as part of its “Private Collection”) to make way for the new arrival.

October 25, 2023

Revlon Charlie: 50 Years Young

Any fragrance that’s been around for 50 years deserves our respect and Revlon Charlie EDT (also known as Charlie Original and Charlie Blue) warrants my approval without hesitation. Launched in 1973, it was very much an aldehydic-floral scent of its time, with pioneering advertising and marketing helping make it a huge commercial success.

IMAGE: Revlon.

Tapping into the spirit of female empowerment and career advancement of the decade, ads featured Shelley Hack (the first woman to wear pants in a fragrance commercial) striding out in confident and liberated style. Later ads featured Sharon Stone and Cindy Crawford. Pop culture extra! In 2007, Oprah Winfrey interviewed Hack on her talk show as an acknowledgement of the influence of the Revlon Charlie ads on her aspirations.

IMAGE: Revlon.

What a pity the American beauty brand isn’t doing more to celebrate its award-winning icon (in 1974, it bagged The Fragrance Foundation – Women’s Popular and Media Campaign of the Year awards). Perhaps its recent bankruptcy problems are a reason for this glaring oversight.

IMAGE: Oprah.com

PERFUMER

The perfumer behind Revlon Charlie EDT, Francis Camail, is also the man responsible for other classics such as Estée Lauder Aliage EDT (1972), Pierre Balmain Ivoire de Balmain EDT (1979) and Goutal Eau d’Hadrien EDT (1980).

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

The bright freshness of lemon blossom creates an immediate uplifting vibe, while a note of hyacinth brings greenery to the composition. There’s more fresh floralcy from notes of rose and lily-of-the-valley. The crisp and clean effect is enhanced by aldehydes.

Now’s a good time for Ingredients 101. Aldehydes feature in a veritable rollcall of all-time classics, including Chanel No 5 Parfum (1921), Carven Ma Griffe Parfum (1946), Rochas Madame Rochas EDT (1960), Hermès Calèche EDT (1961) and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche EDT (1971).

“While aldehydic, it’s not heavy when compared with many others in the genre.”

Depending on which one is used and how they are used, they can give compositions a clean, citric, soapy, laundry-fresh, waxy, between-the-sheets sensual, even metallic vibe. They are particularly useful in helping give top and floral notes extra sparkle and pop (as they do so well in Revlon Charlie EDT). After all that freshness, the fragrance goes deeper in the drydown with notes of sandalwood and oakmoss. While aldehydic, it’s not heavy when compared with many others in the genre.

Let’s get this question out of the way. Aren’t aldehydes old-fashioned? Don’t trigger me. While retro but not out-dated (there’s a difference), Revlon Charlie EDT maintains its youthful allure and will appeal to anyone who’s open-minded enough to appreciate the classics.

Wear it when you want a dose of fresh and versatile upliftment. It sparkles in warmer weather but as I’m not a seasonal fascist, you can wear it in cooler weather too.

September 9, 2023

Eau de Colognes: Timeless Elegance + Even Ridiculously Cheap

You want something refreshing, elegant and often brilliantly priced. I’ve got the perfect scent solutions for you: the best eau de colognes.

If parfum is the highest concentration, then eau de colognes are at the opposite end of the spectrum with the lowest amount of oils at 2 to 4%. They’re mostly about freshness and tend not to last more than a few hours. With their classic, timeless, elegant vibe, who could say no to that?

“Insist on performance at all costs? You’re missing out big time.”

Insist on performance at all costs? You’re missing out big time. Eau de colognes are the ideal antidote to global warming heat and as some of my examples here illustrate, they can be remarkably cheap, so top up when needed.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

L.T. PIVER A LA REINE DES FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE (MICHEL ADAM)

The French company has the distinction of launching the first aldehydic fragrance, L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or, in 1889, quite some time before the most famous example in the genre, Chanel No 5.

Founded in 1774, it’s also one of the oldest houses of French perfumery, although only perfume-geeks are aware of its existence and yours truly can’t find a functional website to learn more about it. According to niche retailer Jovoy, it seems A la Reine des Fleurs takes its name from the perfume store founded by Michel Adam in Paris in 1774.

The freshness of citrus notes of lemon, orange and bergamot leads the way to the aromatics of lavender and rosemary. Thyme gives it a touch of herbal depth and I love how the spicy note of cloves – warm, woody, earthy, softly sweet – lingers in the background.

It’s sold in a splash cologne format and bottles as large as 423ml for the equivalent of $40. You read right. That’s not a typo.

4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE (WILHELM MUELHENS)

From the relative obscurity of L.T. Piver A la Reine des Fleurs to one many of us will recognise from the fragrance repertoire of our parents. Apparently still made according to a secret recipe from 1792 (yes, it’s been around that long), it’s earned its iconic reputation for good reason.

Its attraction is evident from the start with pronounced notes of orange, bergamot and neroli proclaiming, “You’re onto something special.” Lavender and rosemary contribute aromatic appeal to this blend that’s more than a fragrance – it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic.

The 4711 Remix range – Urban Summer (2020), Festival Vibes (2021), Exotic Paradise (2022), Sparkling Island (2023) – is well worth checking out if you want a more youthful spin on the theme.

DETAILLE CHÉRUBIN EAU DE COLOGNE

That’s what friends are for…

I’m not singing the Dionne Warwick and co hit from the 1980s. I’m thanking my good mate Andre (and his sister Renée who regularly buys him this one whenever he runs out of it) for introducing me to this relatively unknown gem. It’s from the Paris-based house that’s been around since 1905 (apparently named after the countess of Presle’s husband, Edouard Detaille) and now owned by Louis Pallier.

There’s the requisite freshness from bergamot, lemon, orange blossom and rose, but what really stands out for me is the spicy muskiness and powdery heliotropin in the drydown.

Based on this one, I’m keen to try Detaille Fleur EDC and Detaille Paradisii EDC. Next time I’m in Paris…

BIEN–ÊTRE L’ORIGINAL LAVANDE DE PROVENCE EAU DE COLOGNE

On my recent visit to Mauritius, I picked up a bottle of this stuff for three reasons:

+ It’s the very definition of cheap ’n cheerful.

+ It reminds me of my mother.

+ This 1965 release delivers lavender in camphor-ish style with herbal support from rosemary. Although on the rough and ready side, it’s a French pharmacy staple.

If splash cologne is not your style, simply decant the contents of the 250ml or 500ml into a smaller spray bottle for easier application. Also look out for Bien-Être L’Original Naturelle EDC, Bien-Être L’Original Rose EDC and Bien-Être L’Original Fraîche EDC.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia still has much to offer. A lot of that has to do with the way this scent conjures up all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.

It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a woody base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.

An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.

**L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR SUR L’HERBE EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)**

In all the hype (and there’s plenty of it nowadays), it’s easy to forget the original niche pioneer L’Artisan Parfumeur founded by Jean Laporte, which paved the way for many others from the 1970s onwards. The Paris-based house added more eau de colognes to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results.

Taking its name from the Manet masterpiece, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (the one that caused a scandal in the 1860s with its depiction of a naked woman picnicking with two fully clothed gents), there’s nothing shocking about this EDC.

Instead, its inspiration comes through in an impressionistic style with brightly green notes of bergamot and neroli. Wafts of musk give it clean sensuality.

Also look out for L’Artisan Parfumeur Champs de Baies EDC, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro 9 EDC and L’Artisan Parfumeur Champs de Fleurs EDC.

BERDOUES CITRON CAVIAR EAU DE COLOGNE

The Grasse-based family-owned company’s range of EDCs always hit the spot (I also recommend Berdoues Figue Blanche EDC and Berdoues Verveine Yuzu EDC).

A 2021 release, Citron Caviar opens with the refreshing, almost lemon-y tones of verbena, with citric touches of bergamot in the background. It goes in a floral direction with a softly sweet take on orange blossom given an aquatic treatment. The vetiver-musk drydown completes what seems an effortless uplifter.

Clean, crisp and oh so chic.

HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I started wearing this 2022 addition to the French luxury brand’s quality-assured Colognes Collection in winter because I’m not particularly seasonal when it comes to fragrances but must admit it pops in all sorts of wonderful ways in the heat.

Opening with the sparkling citric freshness of Calabrian bergamot, it doesn’t take long for the star of the show, green basil, to make its entrance (FYI: the name of the scent references purple basil, the original inspiration for in-house perfumer Christine Nagel, but that variety can’t be distilled). Yes, it’s fresh and herbal, but Nagel shows its aromatic and subtly spicy facets too, supported by the greenery of geranium. Light touches of patchouli and spice conclude this beauty with musky warmth.

If you tell me I smell like a Mediterranean salad, I’ll take that as a compliment, thank you.

*Available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

August 19, 2023

Dior Dioriviera EDP Review: Expectation & Reality

Why is there so much interest in the 2023 release Dior Dioriviera EDP? Yes, it’s the latest launch from the upmarket, quality-assured La Collection Privée Christian Dior.

But more than that, it’s the first creation from Francis Kurkdjian as the revered luxury French brand’s in-house perfumer. So not surprisingly, there’s going to be much scrutiny of this fragrance.

TALKING FRAGRANCE: Yours truly with Francis Kurkdjian when he was in Cape Town in 2019.

PERFUMER

Francis Kurkdjian made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male EDT in 1995 at the age of 26. This was followed by numerous other high-profile scents, including:

+ Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999)

+ Giorgio Armani Armani Mania EDT (2002)

+ Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005)

+ Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier² EDP (2005)

+ Juliette Has A Gun Lady Vengeance EDP (2006)

+ Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007)

+ Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011)

+ Carven L’Eau Intense EDT (2016)

+ Burberry Mr. Burberry EDT (2016)

+ Kenzo World EDP (2016)

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT

In between, in 2009, he and former Ernst & Young associate Marc Chaya founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most popular and respected niche houses in the fragrance biz. Under that banner, he’s notched up many more favourites such as Aqua Universalis EDT (2009), Masculin Pluriel EDT (2014), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015), Grand Soir EDP (2016) and Gentle Fluidity Silver EDP (2019). Oh, and you might have heard of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP (2015).

In 2021, the fragrance world got extremely excited indeed when it was announced that the multi-award-winning Parisian would succeed François Demachy as Dior in-house perfumer. And ever since then, there’s been much anticipation and speculation about when his first creation in the prestigious position would materialise.

PS: Dior Dioriviera EDP isn’t the first scent Francis Kurkdjian has created for the brand (also owned by LVMH). He also produced Dior Cologne Blanche EDP (2004), Dior Eau Noire EDP (2004) and Dior Homme Cologne EDT (2007).

SO WHAT DOES DIOR DIORIVIERA EDP SMELL LIKE?

Is that fig? Yes, sirree! The note can range from the tropical to the gourmand. Here, it’s fresh, woody and unmistakably green.

If you’re familiar with the perfumer’s creations for his own eponymous brand – for example, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire Homme EDT (2009), Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP (2014) and Maison Francis Kurkdjian L’Homme À la Rose EDP (2020) – you’ll know he knows his way around the floral. In Dior Dioriviera EDP, it’s not prominent but adds to the overall fruity-floral effect.

As with all fragrances from the range, you’ll be paying a fair amount for it. But when you do the arithmetic and if you go for the 125ml bottle (it’s also available in 40ml and 250ml), it’s competitively priced compared to many niche equivalents.

The 2021 release Dior Eden-Roc EDP riffed on the French Riviera theme and Dior Dioriviera does that too in a clean and chic way.

Looking for a beastly banger? Move on. But if you’re looking for understated French elegance, please do stay. That said, this scent could bring you lots of compliments, as I discovered on my first day of wearing it. More importantly, you will feel incredibly pleased with yourself for being so refined and the epitome of stealth wealth.

Dior Dioriviera EDP is available in South Africa from the brand website and the Christian Dior store in Sandton City.

August 12, 2023

The House of Oud: 5 Of The Best From The Italian Niche House

What came first: the scent or the egg? Bear with me. This question will make more sense as I get into this post about one of the more distinctive niche brands to have emerged in recent years, The House of Oud (THoO).

The point of difference starts with founder Andrea Casotti, a nuclear engineer, CEO of Creative Flavours & Fragrances and perfumer (the Italian has also created fragrances for Moresque Parfum, Jovoy and Anima Mundi). Since its founding in 2016, THoO has given Andrea Casotti an abundant creative outlet for his love of raw materials, music and art.

IMAGE: The House of Oud.

Niche brand founders will often bang on about the artistry of perfumery and in the case of THoO, that comes through absolutely in the egg-shaped bottle designs (all hand-painted and clearly not to be chucked out when you’ve savoured every last drop of their contents).

IMAGE: The House of Oud.

The high standard of THoO releases through various collections (Universe THoO, The Crop, Royal Stones, Desert Days, Klem Garden and Crazy) dispels any notions of artifice at the expense of quality. Coming back to my question at the start of this post, this is my (admittedly roundabout way) of saying both are equally important when it comes to this Italian company.

The oud part of the brand’s name reveals another intriguing element to the story: the role of THoO co-founder Mohammed Abu Nashi (aka the “Oud Hunter”), an Indonesian-based oud producer who brings his expertise in the precious ingredient to the equation.

IMAGE: The House of Oud.

While earlier releases mostly focused on it, other launches show the diversity of the house. Those that do feature oud do so without overpowering the other materials and assaulting your senses.

This selection should give you a good idea of the variety the house has to offer.

THE HOUSE OF OUD BLESSING SILENCE EDP (ANDREA CASOTTI)

How well do you know your classic combos? Black and white. Check. Tom and Jerry. Check. Caramel and salt. Check. Oud and rose… Yip, this 2016 release from the Desert Days Collection (one of the house’s launch perfumes) is a variation on the ever-popular theme but has more quality than most.

Earthy hints of labdanum and patchouli give way to a harmonious musky-licious oud-rose combo, with the creaminess of sandalwood in support.

It’s a minimalist affair that allows the character of the ingredients to shine. The result is as serene as its name.

THE HOUSE OF OUD BREATH OF THE INFINITE EDP (ANDREA CASOTTI)

At first, this 2016 release from the Desert Days Collection whispers the freshness of freesia and peony notes. And then the powdery fruitiness of peach makes an appearance.

All the while there’s a deep and distinctive sensuality delivered through a blend of Cashmeran, musk, Ambroxan and a touch of Irian oud (sourced from Indonesia).

There’s something quite sombre about it and I keep on coming back for more to try to work it out. But sometimes mystery must be left alone to work its magic.

THE HOUSE OF OUD WHAT ABOUT POP EDP (CRISTIAN CALABRÒ)

What about it, you might ask. This 2019 release from the Universe THoO Collection might not be the first popcorn fragrance – it, er, pops up in everything from Paco Rabanne Pure XS For Her EDP (2018) to Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013). But it certainly takes it to another level of indulgent deliciousness.

The note makes its presence felt from the beginning. It’s salty and caramelised. What could be a one-dimensional trick is given floral touches of honeyed hawthorn and spicy night-blooming cereus. And then there’s the extras of creamy vanilla and an amber accord in which the warmth of benzoin stands out with its balsamic tones.

It’s so good, this is the one time I’ll tolerate you munching popcorn in my ears. Want more gourmand treats in the style the house does so well? Then I also recommend the 2016 releases The House of Oud Almond Harmony EDP and The House of Oud Dates Delight EDP.

THE HOUSE OF OUD NEVERENDING EDP (DOUGLAS MOREL)

An appropriate name for this 2021 release from the Universe THoO Collection that lingers on the skin long after application.

The opening sees a reserved take on fresh pink grapefruit mingling with the earthy spiciness of nutmeg and black pepper. Cumin can be problematic (some people experience it as sweaty), but perfumer Douglas Morel ensures it doesn’t steal the show from the white floral notes of tuberose and jasmine. Their sensuality is enhanced with the powderiness of a suede accord and dollops of black vanilla.

The persistent aspect must be due to the presence of cypriol oil and guaiac wood, with their leathery properties, in the drydown. What could have been animalic overload is admirably restrained yet impactful.

THE HOUSE OF OUD CROP 22 EDP

Since the house’s founding in 2016, annual limited editions from The Crop Collection have featured quality certified oud from Mohammed Abu Nashi’s harvest.

“Limited editions” are open to interpretation but if all the “out of stocks” on the brand’s website and numbered editions on the bottom of the bottles are anything to go by, this is no deceptive marketing ploy.

The 2022 addition to the range (349 bottles and still available) presents the Arabic coffee tradition of qahwa in a rich and spicy style. A brew of dark, cacao-ish coffee beans is infused with the contrasts of fresh spiciness (aromatic cardamom alert, earthy nutmeg) and warm spiciness (powdery cinnamon, softly sweet cloves). There’s an element of greenery from mint. The oud (from Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of the island of Borneo) never dominates but adds smoky woodiness to the blend.

Deeply satisfying stuff.

The House of Oud fragrances are available in the South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

July 12, 2023

MAURITIUS (2): WHAT I WORE + A QUICK GUIDE TO FRAGRANCE SHOPPING ON THE ISLAND

As I hadn’t travelled abroad for quite some time, I’m blaming my notoriously bad packing (too much stuff, most of which I never wear) on that reality. Next time, I’m trying my cousin’s strategy of five of each items which, apart from simplifying my life, would have given me more suitcase space for Mauritius fragrance shopping. T-shirts, shorts, shirts, sarongs, flip-flops (and even swimming trunks, I’ll spare you those pics) became my best clothing friends. If you missed my first Ile Maurice post (island life in an impressionistic style), here’s the link.

I was far more disciplined when it came to packing my fragrance and skincare products, all of which I used regularly.

HERMÈS UN JARDIN À CYTHÈRE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

The Parfums-Jardins Collection (“jardin” = garden in French) has impressed me with its quality and refinement since its launch in 2003 with Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée EDT.

This 2023 addition maintains the standard I’ve come to expect from the range that takes its inspiration from secret gardens (this time, the Greek island of Cythera, also known as Kythira).

It gets going with the freshness of citrus and woodiness of olive trees.
Coumarin is known for its grassy and nutty attributes, and there’s just enough of that here to contribute to the sunny ambience. Slightly salty and warm, the pistachio (increasingly popular in perfumery and cuisine) completes the escapist mood.

Where previous Jardins were characterised by degrees of lushness and greenery, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel wanted Un Jardin à Cythère to be neither green nor floral (I’ve taken creative licence here to include greenery and florals in my pics because it looks good). She realises that with deceptive ease.

The French luxury goods brand (FYI: Its value passed the €200 billion market value earlier this year for the first time, making it the world’s second-most valuable luxury brand after LVMH) does things differently in a subtle way. This EDT is a perfect example of that approach and will always remind me of my time away.

NUXE PRODIGIEUX LE PARFUM EDP (SERGE MAJOULLIER)

The French pharmacy brand doesn’t only offer quality skincare products. Its fragrance selection is impressive too. Whether you’re on holiday or not, this 2012 Serge Majoullier creation (inspired by the smell of the company’s cult Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse) is fabulous stuff.

The opening is fresh with the citrus of orange and bergamot, but not for long. There’s a lush white floral extravaganza via orange blossom and magnolia. Creamy vanilla and sandalwood, bordering on coconut, are given beach sandiness with skilful use of mineral effects. If that doesn’t sound like vacay vibes, sorry, your visa has been declined.

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ INVISIBLE FLUID PROTECTION

What’s a goth to do when there’s sun, sun, sun? Apart from hide under a hat and avoid the rays (kind of difficult on a tropical island), time to slather on one of the best SPFs I’ve tried in a long time.

My sister gave this to me before I departed for Mauritius. So glad she did. It’s non-greasy, non-sticky, easily absorbed formula is made with La Roche-Posay thermal spring water.

NUXE BIO

My mood wasn’t the only prickly thing before my break. My skin was showing the effects of stress and not looking after myself properly.

Started using Reviving Eye Care Anti-Puffiness, Anti-Dark Circles; Glow Rich Moisturising Cream 24h (neroli scented!); Essential Antioxidant Serum; and Radiance Detox Mask from the French pharmacy brand’s Bio range shortly after I arrived and have continued to use it since getting back to South Africa.

Apart from their organic credentials (*see below), thumbs up to these products for smoother, more moisturised skin.

*FYI (from the brand website): Certified organic by Ecocert, the formulas contain an average of 99% natural-origin ingredients and an average of 63% cosmetic ingredients from organic farming, in comparison with the required minimum of 20% certified organic ingredients out of the total required ingredients depending on the product category and COSMOS charter.

BERDOUES VERVEINE YUZU EDC

I instinctively knew I was going to need something refreshing and rejuvenating and with temperatures of 25°C+, I was chuffed with myself for bringing this 2016 release from the family-owned French brand. I chucked it in my everyday bag and it went everywhere with me when I needed a cooling spritz. Which was often and around the clock. See goth problems above.

It’s simplicity itself with notes of verbena (lemony-clean), yuzu (tart and green) and musk (for a bit of longevity, but not too much, it’s an EDC, after all, but so reasonably priced, just spray some more.)

My only complaint: I wish the company would share the name of the perfumer who created this gem, as it does with the releases from its Collection Grands Crus.

BERDOUES FREESIA & COTON EDT

When I was in the mood for something warmer and more sensual, this 2019 release did the trick rather nicely.

It starts out all citrus-y with notes of bergamot and orange. The florals of freesia and jasmine add to the freshness. The cotton effect from the scent’s name is achieved through some clever lab work and accentuated with the enveloping woodiness of the synthetic Cashmeran and white musk.

CITRONELLA

If you asked me to sum up the smells of the island, it would include words like salty, marine, curry, floral, spicy, piment (the green chilli paste), Phoenix beer (especially when offered so early in the day and as I was on vacay, merci beaucoup). And citronella.

I doused myself in one of the local mosquito repellents but alas, the critters still wouldn’t leave me alone.

MAURITIUS FRAGRANCE SHOPPING

If South Africa is a blip on the global fragrance market, Mauritius is but a speck of sand. When I got home I realised all the island’s fragrance retail outlets would still be outnumbered by those in my local shopping mall. Obvious conclusion: You don’t go to Mauritius for fragrance shopping but don’t let that stop you from indulging in this essential activity.

SUPERMARKETS

In convenience stores (increasingly common), such as Intermart, London Way and Winners, you’ll discover eaux de cologne from brands such as Bien-être, Berdoues, Labell and L.T. Piver, all brilliantly priced. At the time of writing this, you’d be able to get your hands on 250ml of Bien-être L’Original Lavande de Provence EDC for roughly R130 / $7 / £5 / €6.

You’ll also find cheapies from brands such as Ulric de Varens. Don’t be put off by the lack of glamour and style in the way these are presented in-store. Apart from their value for money, EDCs are perfect for the island’s climate and lifestyle: splash and go.

PHARMACIES

Depending which one, you’ll find brands such as L’Occitane en Provence, Roger & Gallet and Yves Rocher.

MADO

The chain Mado offers a more conventional retail environment for fragrance and skincare shopping, with a wide selection of the usual designer brands (Dior, Chanel, YSL, Calvin Klein, etc). Twenty years ago, a shop like this would have been unthinkable and unviable. Mauritius has come a long way.

IMAGE: Mado.

PHYDRA

Spotted this shop at the rather upmarket shopping centre down the road from where my aunt lives. The small international selection (Lalique and others) expensive, but the brand’s own fragrances cheap ’n cheerful. EMNT (explore more next time).

GALIMARD

Never heard of this French company before, but apparently originally founded in 1747 in Grasse. Tried a selection of their fragrances (including the Collection Privée) and intrigued enough to want to know more about what they do (for example, fragrance workshops). DEMNT (definitely explore more next time).

DUTY-FREE (FOR-ALL), SIR SEEWOOSAGUR RAMGOOLAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

So this is more like it. Spotted loads of bargains and stuff I wouldn’t normally be able to find easily in South Africa (for example, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Collection). Well priced too, even with charges in euros.

However, with their low prices on booze (whisky, etc), my carefully cultivated holiday mood was under threat from the hordes loading up on Johnnie Walker and I made a quick exit. Next time, I’ll know what to expect.

The pic below says so much…

Me waiting for the flight to be called. Thinking, relieved to be away from Duty-Free, need to see my barber pronto, had a great time but this pigmentation needs serious attention. Will I get home in time before the scheduled power failure?

BEST SHOPPING ADVICE

I was waiting outside the So’flo shopping mall, admiring the vegetation, when an employee of the Mauritius Tourism Authority and I started chatting. He recommended the following four essentials to buy while in Mauritius: vanilla, rum, masala, tea.

I agree, especially the locally produced rum, with two brands standing out for me: Chamarel and Bougainville (yes, my cousin’s wife’s family owns the company that produces it, but I’d still praise the deliciousness of this spirit, which up till now I’d only really appreciated as a perfume note).

PERFUMER

SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

THE PARFUM FACTOR

OTHER FRAGRANCES IN THE BULGARI MAN RANGE

BULGARI MAN EDT** (2010)

BULGARI MAN IN BLACK EDP (2014)

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)

BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)

BULGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (2018)

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (2019)

BULGARI MAN GLACIAL ESSENCE EDP (2020)

BULGARI MAN TERRAE ESSENCE EDP (2021)

BULGARI MAN RAIN ESSENCE EDP (2023)

Share this:

Like this:

Share this:

Like this:

SERGE LUTENS FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS EDP (CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE & PIERRE BOURDON)

ORMONDE JAYNE ISFARKAND EDP (GEZA SCHOEN)

KILIAN STRAIGHT TO HEAVEN EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

COMME DES GARÇONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE)

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS GREEN SAPPHIRE PARFUM**

BYREDO SUPER CEDAR EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

BVLGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

PENHALIGON’S HALFETI CEDAR EDP* (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

CHOPARD CEDAR MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Share this:

Like this:

THAMEEN CARVED OUD EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN GREEN PEARL EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN DIADEM EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN SCEPTRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN IMPERIAL CROWN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN PEREGRINA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN ROYAL SAPPHIRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN CULLINAN DIAMOND EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

THAMEEN BRAVI COLOGNE ELIXIR (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

Share this:

Like this:

Share this:

Like this:

PERFUMER

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

Share this:

Like this:

L.T. PIVER A LA REINE DES FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE (MICHEL ADAM)

4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE (WILHELM MUELHENS)

DETAILLE CHÉRUBIN EAU DE COLOGNE

BIEN–ÊTRE L’ORIGINAL LAVANDE DE PROVENCE EAU DE COLOGNE

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR SUR L’HERBE EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

BERDOUES CITRON CAVIAR EAU DE COLOGNE

HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Share this:

Like this:

PERFUMER

SO WHAT DOES DIOR DIORIVIERA EDP SMELL LIKE?

Share this:

Like this:

THE HOUSE OF OUD BLESSING SILENCE EDP (ANDREA CASOTTI)

THE HOUSE OF OUD BREATH OF THE INFINITE EDP (ANDREA CASOTTI)

THE HOUSE OF OUD WHAT ABOUT POP EDP (CRISTIAN CALABRÒ)

THE HOUSE OF OUD NEVERENDING EDP (DOUGLAS MOREL)

THE HOUSE OF OUD CROP 22 EDP

Share this:

Like this:

HERMÈS UN JARDIN À CYTHÈRE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

NUXE PRODIGIEUX LE PARFUM EDP (SERGE MAJOULLIER)

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ INVISIBLE FLUID PROTECTION

NUXE BIO

BERDOUES VERVEINE YUZU EDC

BERDOUES FREESIA & COTON EDT

CITRONELLA

MAURITIUS FRAGRANCE SHOPPING

SUPERMARKETS

PHARMACIES

MADO

PHYDRA

DUTY-FREE (FOR-ALL), SIR SEEWOOSAGUR RAMGOOLAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

BEST SHOPPING ADVICE

BULGARI MAN EDT (2010)**

**BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)**

**BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)**

**KILIAN STRAIGHT TO HEAVEN EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)**

**COMME DES GARÇONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE)**

**BYREDO SUPER CEDAR EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

**PENHALIGON’S HALFETI CEDAR EDP* (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)**

**L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR SUR L’HERBE EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)**