Kenzo Homme EDT Intense Review: A Thoroughly Modern Aquatic

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

Is it hot, or is it just me? No wonder I’m reaching for one of the best aquatics in recent years: Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. This 2021 release from the Japanese fashion brand (part of the LVMH conglomerate since its acquisition in 1993) sees Kenzo back in the masculine fragrance game in a big way.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

In recent years, the house has focused on its female ranges – Flower and World – so good to see it investing in its male scents again and especially one as good as Kenzo Homme EDT Intense.

PERFUMER

Quentin Bisch is admirably focused on his job to be distracted by flattering descriptions such as “star perfumer”.

The Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Quentin Bisch

IMAGE: Givaudan.

And then Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013), Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP (2014), Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP (2016) gave him the opportunity to show his creative versatility whether for designer or niche brands.

He hasn’t stopped working, with creations such as Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) demonstrating his passion and dedication to his craft.

SO WHAT DOES KENZO HOMME EDT INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

Welcome to the seaside, thanks to judicious use of Calypsone. The Givaudan captive molecule is known for its floral-salty properties and it’s beautifully on display here. The pink pepper note adds rosy spiciness to the mix.

I checked with the perfumer if Calone is also in this EDT, and he confirmed it. But unlike the heavy-handedness of many 1990s aquatics, this fresh sea-breezy synthetic is used in a subtle way. That understatement is also shown in the warm and powdery treatment of the fig tree accord.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

What stands out most in Kenzo Homme EDT Intense and the part I keep on coming back to is its sensual heat and lingering saltiness on the skin. This is achieved through a combination of earthy vetiver and another Givaudan captive molecule, Akigalawood (patchouli oil is fractionated to produce a woody, spicy, sometimes oud-y effect). I don’t understand the process completely either. What matters is that Quentin Bisch makes the most of this example of biotechnology.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Akigalawood

BIOTECHNOLOGY: Quentin Bisch used the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood to create Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. IMAGE: Givaudan.

The sandalwood note – deliciously creamy, with a hint of coconut – concludes the scent with finesse.

This is not your usual aquatic. It’s thoroughly modern and while minimalist, there’s plenty to hold the attention from start to finish.  Quentin Bisch has every reason to be proud of this creation.

Looking for a contemporary aquatic without the 1990s clichés? Want to feel like you’re on holiday somewhere special? Here you go…

Quentin Bisch Parfums de Marly Delina Interview: “I Don’t Create Perfumes Thinking Of Success”

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

The last time I interviewed Quentin Bisch, in 2018, the Paris-based perfumer was already making an impression with his creations for brands such as Chloé, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Etat Libre d’Orange, Mugler, Ex Nihilo and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Four years later, the Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate has become highly sought after, so much so that this follow-up interview almost didn’t materialise due to his non-stop schedule.

IMAGE: Chloé.

Quentin Bisch made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with Reminiscence Essence EDP. Most recently, he has produced fan favourites Hibiscus Mahajád (2021) and Patchouli Magnetik (2022) for French niche brand Maison Crivelli.

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

His creations for the Parfums de Marly Delina Range – Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif EDP (2018) and Parfums de Marly Delina La Rosée EDP (2021) – are particularly popular.

When we got the opportunity to catch up over a half-hour phone call, we chat about the pressures of being in demand, the Parfums de Marly Delina line and the trickiness of working with roses. We also go into existential territory, which just adds to my admiration of his authenticity and sensitivity.

You are very in demand and are increasingly referred to as a “star perfumer”. How do you cope with the pressure and expectation?

Please don’t [sighs]. When I hear those kinds of things, I’m honoured and touched.

At the same time, it’s just not talking to me. Maybe because I’m strict with myself so I’m always seeking, doing research, looking at my next goals to achieve. So when I hear those compliments, it’s like people are nice, but that’s it.

“With the pressure, it’s only my pressure, which is quite huge. It’s sufficient and quite enough.”

With the pressure, it’s only my pressure, which is quite huge. It’s sufficient and quite enough [laughs].

I get the impression you’re a perfectionist.

Yes, maybe too much. But my self-engine that pushes me all the time is good like that too. Sometimes it’s a bit tricky. I can get into things in an obsessional way. It tends to take a lot in my life.

I still see myself as someone looking for something I haven’t accomplished yet. I feel young and new and having done nothing yet. There’s a huge gap between sometimes what I hear and what I feel in my head.

Apparently, you used to struggle with chemistry, an integral part of perfumery. How’s that part of the equation going now?

No. No [emphatic]. I have understood with experience you don’t need chemistry at all, in fine fragrances especially. Maybe if you’re working with household detergents and so forth, you do, but that’s not my domain.

You don’t need to foresee the chemical reactions in fine fragrances. You just need to perfume alcohol, which has no smell. I’m more of a chef mixing ingredients than a chemist.

IMAGE: Marc-Antoine Barrois.

You make it sound too easy, Quentin…

You’re right. Anybody can create, with a little training, something that smells good. There are some tricks. If you take vanilla, patchouli and labdanum, it smells amber, which is a beautiful accord. You can learn that trick.

To create beautiful perfumes that are modern, different and expansive is complicated because then you must adapt the art of mixing to the art of feeling what will be good, trendy and suits the brand. That is difficult.

Which would come from experience and intuition…

True. Intuition and lots of work. You need to try and try and fail and fail again to discover something nice and interesting. You need to be very patient. If you’re looking for something that’s rewarding quickly, perfumery is not for you.

“If you’re looking for something that’s rewarding quickly, perfumery is not for you.”

Let’s discuss the hugely successful Parfums de Marly Delina range. How much freedom were you given to create these fragrances?

Quite free, I must say. We presented to Julien [Sprecher], the olfactive director of the brand. At first, he didn’t like the note, but we insisted and he reconsidered. He asked me to do one single modification and that’s it.

Delina is powerful stuff. Was that part of the brief?

It’s very important to have that aspect in the whole package. It needed to be powerful and fluid – the way it’s distributed in the air – and transparent at the same time.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

How did you ensure Delina Exclusif is different from the original while keeping certain elements?

Exactly. It needed to be a continuation of the first one, like season two. If Delina was roses blooming in the garden at noon, full sun, a beautiful day, then Exclusif would be the same thing, but by night. It’s the same idea but with a different atmosphere.

I see you used Evernyl in the creation of Delina Exclusif. Did you prefer to use this synthetic moss rather than real oak moss?

When a perfumer uses a material, it’s not a basic choice between a natural and synthetic. I used Evernyl for a certain reason. It’s a different material. It’s like if you asked why I used hedione or benzyl acetate in place of jasmine. They’re three completely different materials.

“Creating a perfume is not a battle of choosing between natural and synthetic, good and bad. They’re a range of different ingredients.”

Creating a perfume is not a battle of choosing between natural and synthetic, good and bad. They’re a range of different ingredients.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

For example, using a high amount of rose essence oil sometimes is not good. It stinks because it’s too dark, too spicy. It’s a cocktail of molecules when you use the natural. The synthetic allows you to use just one part of the rose, so then you can create your own rose.

I’m enjoying the relative softness of La Rosée with its aquatic vibe. What was the idea there?

I thought it could be the prequel. The same rose, but in the morning and not fully bloomed at that moment. There’s a dewy, wet atmosphere. It’s transparent but still powerful.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

Are you surprised by the success of the range?

Yes! And everywhere! In Brazil, the Middle East, America, Russia, France. It’s crazy. That’s very interesting.

You never know if something is going to be a success. I don’t create perfumes thinking of that. Sometimes a beautiful fragrance can be launched at the wrong time and it misses the audience.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

All these Delina fragrances feature Turkish rose. Is this an easy ingredient to work with for you?

No, not at all. It’s beautiful but very powerful and can be a bit tricky. If you overdose it, it’s not modern.

For Parfums de Marly, it needed to be the legacy of this olfactory fantasy, tradition and modernity.

It’s really a duet of this rose, from Turkey and which is natural, and Petalia. This captive molecule from Givaudan [the company he works for] is a key ingredient of the modern rosiness of Delina. It keeps the litchi, fresh rose facet from top to bottom.

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Do you have a favourite ingredient to work with?

It changes all the time, like one’s mood. It depends on what you want to do. At the moment, it’s vanilla, because I’m working on something with it.

You know for Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle EDP, it started with le grand cru vanille, a delicious French cake with vanilla in all its states – powdery, dark, leathery. It was very interesting, the first time I was really trying to create an accord around vanilla and all its facets. From that day, I’m a vanilla-lover.

IMAGE: Jean Paul Gaultier.

Are you working on the next addition to the Delina range already? I know these things are confidential…

[Pause] Not for Delina. I can tell you I’m working on something else for Parfums de Marly.

If I read correctly, you turn 40 next year.

I turned 39 one week ago.

Hope it was a good celebration. Does it mean anything to you, as you approach that landmark year? Is this a time of reflection for you?

Definitely, but I’m always in that kind of state [laughs]. I’m always thinking about where I am, what I do, and asking myself: Are you doing the right thing? Are you doing it properly? And if not, change it.

IMAGE: Essential Parfums.

It’s tiring but also good because you’re sure you’re at the right place at the right moment and you’re not lying to yourself and others. I hate, hate not being honest with myself and others.

I can relate. It can keep you up at night, all those questions, especially when there are no answers.

Yes, yes. You can question something without having the answers. And then it follows you in your everyday life and sometimes, suddenly, you will have that revelation: now, I know this is for me, this is not for me anymore. We evolve all the time and I definitely have the feeling I’m not the same as before.

The Parfums de Marly Delina range is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping: To Give Or Not To Give

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Chloe Nomade EDP

Whether you’re looking for some Christmas fragrance shopping to up the festive ante, or just want to know what’s new on counters, this extended post is for you. There’s a little bit of everything here, from the ubiquitous fruity floral to the not-seen-nearly-enough floral chypre.

Chloe Nomade EDP (Quentin Bisch)

What a gorgeously green citrus opening to this flora chypre! We don’t have enough of these on the market. Chloe Nomade keeps on giving after that special intro of Mirabelle, lemon and bergamot. The heart features notes of freesia, jasmine, peach and rose. Oakmoss dominates the base, with notes of patchouli and amber in support. Officially, one of my favourite fragrances of 2018 and a top recommendation for your Christmas fragrance shopping list. Congrats, Monsieur Bisch! 30ml for R910, 50ml for R1 345 and R1 655 for 150ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Chloe Nomade EDP

Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca EDP (Harry Fremont)

Fragrances specifically designed for weddings are a growing trend. While you won’t see me walking down the aisle any time soon, I can appreciate this one for being well thought out. Pretty and elegant, it features standout notes of pear, jasmine sambac and sandalwood. The ornate bottle alone will ensure it does a brisk trade at a counter near you. R1 005 for 50ml and R1 410 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca EDP

Diesel Bad Intense EDT

Judging from the bumf for this fragrance, Diesel Bad Boy Intense is a stronger version of the bad boy you can’t get enough of. And with listed accords like tobacco and caviar, this EDT sounds promisingly wayward. Not that this is a, er, bad fragrance, but sometimes he’s too much of a wholesome boy-next-door. R1 350.00 for 125 ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Diesel Bad Intense EDT

Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP Florale (Quentin Bisch)

From the first whiff of this fragrance, rose is very prominent, plus there’s a hint of artimesia. It’s a sweet kind of rose, but appealingly so. As a fruity floral it features a variety of notes, including black currant, mandarin orange, jasmine and peach blossom. Although it’s sweet for sure, it’s fairly sophisticated stuff. R1 310 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Boucheron Quatre En Rose Florale EDP

Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Signature EDP (Alberto Morillas)

If Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT is all about tiramisu, the third addition to the range is all about leather, coffee and tonka beans. There are also patchouli, cinnamon and cardamom notes at work here. As you can imagine the effect is one of warm, smooth and seductive sophistication that’s probably best suited to cooler weather and evenings. Well worth sniffing out for your Christmas fragrance shopping. R1 140 for 50ml and R1 580 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Salvatore Ferragamo Signature EDP

Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night Absolute EDP (Alberto Morillas)

With notes of black plum, orange blossom, jasmine sambac, Madagascan vanilla, black musk and crystal moss, this EDP almost ventures into exotic territory. Like its predecessor, it smells expensive, seductive and luxurious. But this one is richer and denser. Too potent for modern, sensitive offices, it’s a great choice for elegant nights out. (Random fact: I recently read that Alberto Morillas has created over 480 fragrances in his lifetime.)

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Salvatore Ferragamo Signature EDP

Carven Vetiver EDT

Vetiver is one of my favourite notes, so I was keen to try this one. Imagine my surprise when I picked up a very real note of lemongrass in its opening, which confused me a bit. But once I decided to go with it, I started to enjoy this fresh EDT. Notes of bergamot and grapefruit complete the citrus opening theme. Lavender is prominent in the heart of the fragrance. The smell of vetiver comes through in a big way fairly soon. It’s deliciously earthy and dry stuff! An intriguing fragrance that would make for an adventurous choice in your Christmas fragrance shopping. R1 295 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Carven Vetiver EDT

Mugler Alien Man EDT (Jean-Christophe Herault)

I had huge expectations of this one, as I love the female Alien fragrances for being so unapologetically bold and surprising. I like this woody-leather-aromatic EDT, but I can’t say I love it, because it almost seems to be holding back. And Alien fragrances are never reserved. Methinks (and hopes) that the EDP version, when it makes its appearance, will unleash the full potential of this fragrance. R1 090 for 50ml and R1 390 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Alien Man EDT

ALIEN LIFE: Is Mugler Alien Man special enough to make your Christmas fragrance shopping list?

Lanvin Eclat de Nuit EDP (Fabrice Pellegrin)

The fruity-floral trend shows no signs of letting up. This fragrance’s cute pink bottle makes me think this EDP is aimed at a younger market. It features notes of lemon, black currant, red apple, jasmine and orange blossom. The base covers another big trend, gourmand, with notes of praline and vanilla. Too sweet for me, but its target market will love it. R1 295 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Lanvin Eclat de Nuit EDP

Coach Platinum EDP (Bruno Jovanovic)

Launched in 2016, Coach For Men became a popular choice due to its versatility and everyday appeal. Coach Platinum EDP, no doubt, will be equally popular, as it’s just as easy-going. A fresh oriental, it opens with notes of juniper, black pepper and pineapple. Sage adds an aromatic aspect and the notes of cashmeran, leather and sandalwood bring an undeniably smooth luxury to the proceedings. Nice one! R1 055 for 60ml and R1 435 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Coach Platinum EDP

Bulgari Man Wood Essence EDP (Alberto Morillas)

The 10th addition to the Bulagai Man range opens with notes of cedar and cypress setting the scene. There are also smatterings of coriander leaf and citruses  in the background. Vetiver is at the heart of the fragrance and it accentuates the woody opening, which eventually gives way to benzoin. Even if it’s not the most original fragrance around, it’s solidly masculine and elegant. R1 220 for 60ml and R1 640 for 100ml.

Christmas Fragrance Shopping - Bulgari Man Wood Essence EDP

Interview With Quentin Bisch: “Perfumery Is An Absolute Part Of Myself”

Quentin Bisch

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRED ZARA.

2018 could very well be the year of Quentin Bisch. The 35-year-old perfumer has signed a number of high-profile fragrances this year. These include: Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (pictured below), Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP, Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XV: Salvia Blu EDP, Chloé Nomade EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP, Parfums de Marly Delina EDP, Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP and Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP.

Quentin Bisch - Azzaro Wanted By Night EDP

Even before this prolific year, Quentin Bisch was producing stand-out fragrances such as Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013).

The first Quentin Bisch fragrance I smelled was Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum in 2016. At the time I didn’t know he had created this supremely sexy scent with its creamy take on notes of cardamom, lavender, leather and cinnamon.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

Not bad for someone whose dream to become a perfumer was ridiculed by a teacher because he wasn’t any good at high-school chemistry. Now, Quentin Bisch is one of Givaudan’s hot talents.

I contacted Quentin Bisch via Instagram and he agreed to answer some questions about his fragrance style, niche vs designer and his latest creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Quentin Bisch

IMAGE COURTESY OF GIVAUDAN

What fragrance are you wearing today?

A trial for a huge project I’ve been working on for the past three years. It is the final round and there are two candidates left. In a few weeks someone will be selected for it. When I wear a fragrance, which is quite rare lately, it is Hermès Kelly Calèche EDT.

IMAGE COURTESY OF HERMES.COM

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

Both. But I definitely admit that working with such a passion may change the rules of typical “professions”: you barely can stop, because you always create perfumes in your mind, while watching a movie or sleeping at night. It is an absolute part of myself and takes up the main part of my life.

Quentin Bisch - Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

Difficult to say… For my personal research, yes, as I keep discovering myself every day. I feel that with increasing confidence, I tend to go straight to the point. My formulas are bolder and shorter.

But the main part of the job is connected to the brands. Hence my “style”, as you call it, is clearly connected to them and adapts to answer each one. I totally get to dive into the brand’s DNA and become like their internal perfumer. I am not the same perfumer when I work for Chloé or for Paco Rabanne.

Quentin Bisch - Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRAGRANTICA.COM

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

Am I (laughs)? Must admit it is quite new to me. Two months ago I was not part of any social network. And you are right, now I dedicate more time to it. As a perfumer the benefit is a communication matter: you are closer to a lot of people, showing your work as you choose to, for instance, the inspiration behind the fragrances. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator, which completes and add to the brand’s communication.

“Two months ago I was not part of any social network. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator.”

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

Of course, some briefs are more important, because they speak to you in a particular way. I remember when the Chloé Nomade brief arrived, I was crazy. I wanted to be the one who would win it. It became very emotional, because I adore this brand. Sometimes it’s niche briefs that keep you up at night with ideas. I take most of it pretty intensely. I am like that. It is quite tiring, but life is short, so I play it hard.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

I work on many projects at the same time. But the rhythm and level of finalisation varies from one to another. So it is rarely every project at the same time. Yes, “juggling” is a good word.

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Not that much. I work with as many creative and bold accords for niche as I do for designer fragrances. The main difference is the target. When you want to appeal to a larger audience, you need to include it in the deal. That’s why designer fragrances often are so faceted: a bit of fruit to be joyful, flower notes for fluidity, musks for comfort, and gourmand for addiction and youth… In that situation, we are far away from a niche perfume featuring only amber or spices. You don’t aim for the same result.

Quentin Bisch - Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago. I remember biting into the little candied fruit and feeling a symphony of sensations. Firstly, you feel the caramel, cold and hard, its bitterness almost burnt brown sugar. As you break it your teeth get into the peel of the mandarin: zests! Then the fruit explodes and it is all about juicy, acidulous, pulpy delight.

“For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago.”

Givaudan’s new mandarins (coeur and intégrale) allow one to feel a lasting freshness and juiciness, as well as the texture of the fruit. Normally citruses are top notes, meaning they burst at the head note of a perfume, but barely last. Caramel notes – more oriental – do last.

Quentin Bisch - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP

I needed a lasting citrus, bold and textured, to give the illusion that you experience this delight with all its facets evolving altogether, and that you do not end with a caramel topped by some blinking citruses. It became possible to render all the feelings and sensations of my emotional childhood memory!