fragroom

Never mind eating your greens, rather smell your green fragrances. With spring here, now is a good time to present some of my favourite green fragrances.

But first, what exactly does “green” mean in perfumery? It often evokes the freshness of nature, being outdoors and surrounded by the smells of leaves, branches and flowers. But there’s more to it than that.

“Green fragrances often evoke the freshness of nature and being outdoors. But there’s more to it than that.”

It’s a huge genre and variations of it can be found across all the main fragrance families (floral, amber, woody, fresh). It runs the gamut from the intensely green (for example, galbanum, the gum resin from the evergreen shrub) to those with nuances (for example, citrus notes of neroli, bergamot, lime and petitgrain) and a spicy spin (for example, mint).

Unsurprisingly, many floral notes can have green aspects. Geranium, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and lavender are just a few examples here. Ditto fruity notes such as green apple, cassis, blackcurrant and fig leaves.

For something I equate with nature, there’s, of course, often a fair amount of synthetic tinkering going on in laboratories to achieve that verdant effect.

Are you equally keen about green fragrances?

CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

Launched in 1970 and created by Chanel No 5 creator Ernest Beaux’s successor, Chanel No 19 refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel, who was born on August 19, 1883. It was also the last Chanel fragrance to be created while the grande dame was still alive (she died in 1971). Historical significance aside, I love this classic for its unusual floral-woody-green character.

It begins with citrus-fresh notes of bergamot and neroli. But they are secondary to the large dose of galbanum, which gives this scent its outstanding bitter green profile. Iris pallida softens the initial impact with powderiness, while notes of ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose bring floral intensity to the mix. The woody base notes of oakmoss and vetiver keep it resolutely sharp.

More than 50 years after its initial launch, this EDP remains a complex and compelling beauty.

CREED GREEN IRISH TWEED* (PIERRE BOURDON)

Okay, so let’s get the controversy out of the way first. Legendary perfumer Pierre Bourdon is now being recognised as the true creator of this 1985 release and not Olivier Creed.

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean. The heart of the fragrance belongs to an airy violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight creamy focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and Florentine iris adds an element of powderiness. And what about the “ambergris” that’s commonly listed in Creeds? Well, that’s more than likely the musky synthetic Ambroxan at work.

Green Irish Tweed is one of the Paris-based niche brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why.

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS & ANNIE BUZANTIAN)

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL EDT (CALICE BECKER)

I’m having a bit of a 90s moment with these debut fragrances from the American fashion brand. Both green in different ways, created by top perfumers and sure to put prep in your step.

Released in 1995, Tommy EDT is a fresh and spicy take, with distinctive notes of mint, citrus and lavender. Notes of Granny Smith apple and cranberry add fruity touches.

His sister followed in 1996 and is not as obviously green at first. A citrus burst of mandarin orange and lemon is given a green spin with notes of blackcurrant, mint and jasmine. With lotsa florals, in particular apple tree blossom and honeysuckle, it’s as pretty can be.

DIPTYQUE PHILOSYKOS EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

For good reason, this 1996 release from the Paris-based niche brand is considered one of the best fig fragrances. That should come as no surprise, as its creator, Olivia Giacobetti, also produced the first fig fragrance in perfumery, Premier Figuier, for L’Artisan Parfumeur in 1994.

Philosykos showcases the entire fig tree and begins with the fresh, slightly bitter leaves, green nuances at the fore. The fruit is honeyed, almost coconut-ish. The rest of the tree comes through in a most skilful use of woody notes that maintains the illusion of walking through an orchard of fig trees.

This superb scent is also available as an EDP.

COMME DES GARÇONS AMAZINGREEN EDP* (JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT)

The Japanese designer brand can always be relied upon to do something different. And that’s exactly what this 2012 release does to perfection.

Yes, there’s vibrant greenery from notes of palm tree leaves, green pepper and ivy leaves. And there’s also the fresh spiciness of coriander and powderiness of orris. They’re all given mineral smokiness with notes of flint, gunpowder and smoke, with earthiness from vetiver.

It’s green, for sure, in such a clever way that mixes naturals with synthetics.

AMAZING INDEED: Amazingreen is one of my favourite green fragrance for the way it mixes naturals and synthetics.

CACHAREL ANAÏS ANAÏS L’ORIGINAL EDT (ROGER PELLEGRINO, ROBERT GONNON, PAUL LEGER & RAYMOND CHAILLAN)

A generational favourite, this 1978 classic was also the debut fragrance from the French fashion brand. Those of us of a certain vintage will remember the romantic advertising that accompanied its release.

It was re-launched in 2014 as Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs L’Original and while not as complex as the illustrious original, it still retains enough of its floral beauty to warrant your attention.

The fresh greenery of hyacinth and honeysuckle beckons in the opening. The fresh spiciness of lily meets the soapiness of lily-of-the-valley, with a dewy rose in support. With earthy base notes of oakmoss and vetiver, in tandem with musk, it never tips into sweetness and delivers wafts of French elegance.

NISHANE AMBRA CALABRIA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)

While the Turkish niche brand is known more for their heavier fragrances, they also excel at quality freshies with a difference, such as this 2015 release.

The opening is crisply green with notes of green leaves, galbanum and the softly spicy tones of Calabrian bergamot, in particular, in play. It’s fresh without being overly sharp and bitter. Coriander and jasmine add an element of subtle sweetness to the mix. The drydown takes it in an unexpected direction with an elegantly sweet vanilla-dominant amber accord.

Beautifully refreshing from start to finish.

PENHALIGON’S THE REVENGE OF LADY BLANCHE EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

I’m feeling ever so posh. And that’s because I’ve been wearing this 2016 release from the British heritage brand. It’s part of their Portraits Collection, an irreverent take on the idea of the fragrance family. Jolly good, I say. Apologies, I’m channelling again…

It starts out with a note of daffodil (also known as narcissus) – richly green and somewhat spicy. Hyacinth isn’t listed as an official note, but I get wafts of that too. I digress… What can I say, the name of this perfume sounds sinister but the scent itself is delightfully distracting. The earthy powderiness of orris leads to the creamy sandalwood drydown.

If you’re wondering why it’s more expensive than most of the company’s fragrances, that’s because the packaging, including the leopard-head top, is fabulously fancy too.

SIMONE ANDREOLI MALIBU PARTY IN THE BAY EDP INTENSE* (SIMONE ANDREOLI)

This 2018 release is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the Italian niche brand and I’m impressed by how its travel inspiration is translated to produce the olfactory equivalent of a daiquiri.

The multi-facedness of lime is revealed in the opening in exemplary style: fresh, bright, invigorating, juicy, green, sweet and sour. The tropical tones of coconut nectar and sugar are added to the blend for just the right amount of dusk-to-dawn sunny sweetness. The rum, warm and fruity, comes through in the drydown, with creamy support from sandalwood.

What a deliciously uplifting cocktail from start to finish. Fantastically festive stuff!

MAISON CRIVELLI FLEUR DIAMANTINE EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

In the five years since its emergence in 2018, the Paris-based niche brand has made a big impact with fragrances inspired by founder Thibaud Crivelli’s experiences.

Part of the launch collection, this EDP takes its cue from “walking through an idyllic white garden with jasmine and orange trees, while eating saffron ice cream”.

I get that feel right from the start with the crisply green treatment of neroli essential oil and jasmine absolute. Mint essential oil adds spicy freshness. The combo of saffron and bitter almond is surprisingly creamy. Settling with clean white musks and earthy oakmoss, it’s one I keep coming back to when the heat gets to me.

HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EDC (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I started wearing this 2022 addition to the French brand’s top-notch Colognes Collection in winter because I’m not particularly seasonal when it comes to fragrances, but must admit it pops in all sorts of wonderful ways in the heat.

Opening with the sparkling citric freshness of Calabrian bergamot, it doesn’t take long for the star of the show, green basil, to make its entrance (FYI: the name of the scent references purple basil, the original inspiration for the perfumer, but that variety can’t be distilled). Yes, it’s fresh and herbal, but Nagel shows its aromatic and subtly spicy facets too, supported by the greenery of geranium. Light touches of patchouli and spice conclude this beauty with musky warmth.

If you tell me I smell like a Mediterranean salad, I’ll take that as a compliment, thank you.

MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS ENCELADE EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)

I’ve become a big, big fan of the brand founded by Parisian couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois. His collaborations with perfumer Quentin Bisch always result in something unique. For example, this 2022 release.

On paper the listed notes – rhubarb, cedar, vetiver, leather, sandalwood and tonka bean – seem ordinary enough. But in the hands of Quentin Bisch, they’re pushed in dazzlingly different directions. So you’ll get densely aromatic and earthy greenery contrasted with animalic smokiness and creamy woodiness.

As with the house’s other releases, Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 (2016) and Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede (2019), it’s idiosyncratic, love-it-or-hate-it stuff.

These green fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.