Fragroom: A Blog About Fragrance + Grooming for Men

October 14, 2024

OUT OF SYNC

Sometimes I feel I’m increasingly out of sync with the modern perfume world.

The reasons I feel this way are several and varied.

Let’s start with these:

+ I don’t layer everything (although I have been known to wear a few fragrances on different parts of the body at the same time).

+ I don’t equate performance with quality and value.

+ I haven’t bought the umpteenth 2024 Kayali release (however, I can appreciate the brand’s business and promotional savvy).

+ I still haven’t launched my YouTube channel.

+ I don’t follow loads of YouTubers.

+ There is such a thing as too sweet (does Olivier Cresp lie awake at night regretting the gourmand monster he unleashed with Mugler Angel? He probably doesn’t.)

Gosh, there are lots of don’ts here. So let’s have some do’s, shall we?

+ I still enjoy old-school blogging with thoughtful writing and enticing visuals.

+ As things seem to get busier, more hyper, more attention-grabbing, I’m enjoying quiet fragrances more and more.

+ With the rise of AI and suspiciously perfect imagery on IG, imperfection is becoming my thing. (Yes, I air-brush here and there, but not overly so).

+ My references of quality seem so old school when I type them out: Guerlain, Chanel, Cartier, Hermès and Bulgari. Not to mention, designer.

Do you also sometimes feel out of sync with the modern perfume world? Please let me know. Hope I’m not the only one…

September 28, 2024

Rosendal: Notes On A Road Trip + Fragrance Companions

DESTINATION

Rosendal (± 4 000 inhabitants), the eastern Free State, one of South Africa’s provinces.

We’d last visited the self-proclaimed “arts colony” in 2017. It was then poised to become more popular with creative types and those looking for a simpler life without urban conveniences such as ATMs, tar roads and shopping centres.

Windmills of my mind: A pitstop on our way there.

Road works on the last stretch into the town.

Subtext: big city people, leave your impatient ways behind you.

WHERE WE STAYED

The Rosendal Country Retreat. www.therosendal.co.za

It offers a variety of comfy self-catering rooms (more like cottages), a communal lounge, a chapel and conference room.

We arrived feeling frazzled (who knew organising our father’s 90th birthday celebrations could be so stressful?!). And felt increasingly relaxed over the next few days without even having to make use of the yoga mats in our rooms.

While Rosendal is, thankfully, not shopping central, you can still buy art, crafts and artisanal items at its shops and eateries.

THEN AND NOW

Covid-19, the moribund South African economy and road works have all taken their toll on the farming town. A reality check for anyone who romanticises country life.

Nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. An attractive combo of switched-off living, a striking setting with the Witteberg Mountains in the distance, and glimpses into rural life.

Next time, we’ll bring our passports so we can visit Lesotho while we’re in Rosendal.

FRAGRANCE COMPANIONS

Apart from a dear friend, my companions were Essential Parfums Mon Vetiver EDP and Essential Parfums The Musc EDP.

Both turned out to be inspired choices if I can say so myself.

Created by Calice Becker, The Musc (2018) sees the Givaudan captive molecule musk Nirvanolide faceted with the fresh spiciness of ginger, floral tones of lavandin and sophisticated sweetness of beeswax. Australian sandalwood brings woody creaminess to the seemingly simple composition. The result: powdery distinctiveness with contrasts of freshness and warmth.

The Bruno Jovanovic creation Mon Vetiver is just that. My (kind of) vetiver. The soft smokiness of Haitian vetiver meets the sharp freshness of juniper berry, lime and gentian. There’s woody muskiness from the synthetic Cashmeran, while patchouli enhances the earthiness of the title note. It all adds up to produce a vetiver scent that’s easy on the nose and the pocket.

Essential Parfums fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

September 9, 2024

Keen For Greens: A Selection Of My Favourites

Never mind eating your greens, rather smell your green fragrances. With spring here, now is a good time to present some of my favourite green fragrances.

But first, what exactly does “green” mean in perfumery? It often evokes the freshness of nature, being outdoors and surrounded by the smells of leaves, branches and flowers. But there’s more to it than that.

“Green fragrances often evoke the freshness of nature and being outdoors. But there’s more to it than that.”

It’s a huge genre and variations of it can be found across all the main fragrance families (floral, amber, woody, fresh). It runs the gamut from the intensely green (for example, galbanum, the gum resin from the evergreen shrub) to those with nuances (for example, citrus notes of neroli, bergamot, lime and petitgrain) and a spicy spin (for example, mint).

Unsurprisingly, many floral notes can have green aspects. Geranium, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and lavender are just a few examples here. Ditto fruity notes such as green apple, cassis, blackcurrant and fig leaves.

For something I equate with nature, there’s, of course, often a fair amount of synthetic tinkering going on in laboratories to achieve that verdant effect.

Are you equally keen about green fragrances?

CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

Launched in 1970 and created by Chanel No 5 creator Ernest Beaux’s successor, Chanel No 19 refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel, who was born on August 19, 1883. It was also the last Chanel fragrance to be created while the grande dame was still alive (she died in 1971). Historical significance aside, I love this classic for its unusual floral-woody-green character.

It begins with citrus-fresh notes of bergamot and neroli. But they are secondary to the large dose of galbanum, which gives this scent its outstanding bitter green profile. Iris pallida softens the initial impact with powderiness, while notes of ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose bring floral intensity to the mix. The woody base notes of oakmoss and vetiver keep it resolutely sharp.

More than 50 years after its initial launch, this EDP remains a complex and compelling beauty.

**CREED GREEN IRISH TWEED* (PIERRE BOURDON)**

Okay, so let’s get the controversy out of the way first. Legendary perfumer Pierre Bourdon is now being recognised as the true creator of this 1985 release and not Olivier Creed.

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean. The heart of the fragrance belongs to an airy violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight creamy focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and Florentine iris adds an element of powderiness. And what about the “ambergris” that’s commonly listed in Creeds? Well, that’s more than likely the musky synthetic Ambroxan at work.

Green Irish Tweed is one of the Paris-based niche brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why.

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS & ANNIE BUZANTIAN)

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL EDT (CALICE BECKER)

I’m having a bit of a 90s moment with these debut fragrances from the American fashion brand. Both green in different ways, created by top perfumers and sure to put prep in your step.

Released in 1995, Tommy EDT is a fresh and spicy take, with distinctive notes of mint, citrus and lavender. Notes of Granny Smith apple and cranberry add fruity touches.

His sister followed in 1996 and is not as obviously green at first. A citrus burst of mandarin orange and lemon is given a green spin with notes of blackcurrant, mint and jasmine. With lotsa florals, in particular apple tree blossom and honeysuckle, it’s as pretty can be.

**DIPTYQUE PHILOSYKOS EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)**

For good reason, this 1996 release from the Paris-based niche brand is considered one of the best fig fragrances. That should come as no surprise, as its creator, Olivia Giacobetti, also produced the first fig fragrance in perfumery, Premier Figuier, for L’Artisan Parfumeur in 1994.

Philosykos showcases the entire fig tree and begins with the fresh, slightly bitter leaves, green nuances at the fore. The fruit is honeyed, almost coconut-ish. The rest of the tree comes through in a most skilful use of woody notes that maintains the illusion of walking through an orchard of fig trees.

This superb scent is also available as an EDP.

COMME DES GARÇONS **AMAZINGREEN EDP* (JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT)**

The Japanese designer brand can always be relied upon to do something different. And that’s exactly what this 2012 release does to perfection.

Yes, there’s vibrant greenery from notes of palm tree leaves, green pepper and ivy leaves. And there’s also the fresh spiciness of coriander and powderiness of orris. They’re all given mineral smokiness with notes of flint, gunpowder and smoke, with earthiness from vetiver.

It’s green, for sure, in such a clever way that mixes naturals with synthetics.

Green Fragrances - Comme des Garçons Amazingreen EDP

AMAZING INDEED: Amazingreen is one of my favourite green fragrance for the way it mixes naturals and synthetics.

CACHAREL ANAÏS ANAÏS L’ORIGINAL EDT (ROGER PELLEGRINO, ROBERT GONNON, PAUL LEGER & RAYMOND CHAILLAN)

A generational favourite, this 1978 classic was also the debut fragrance from the French fashion brand. Those of us of a certain vintage will remember the romantic advertising that accompanied its release.

It was re-launched in 2014 as Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs L’Original and while not as complex as the illustrious original, it still retains enough of its floral beauty to warrant your attention.

The fresh greenery of hyacinth and honeysuckle beckons in the opening. The fresh spiciness of lily meets the soapiness of lily-of-the-valley, with a dewy rose in support. With earthy base notes of oakmoss and vetiver, in tandem with musk, it never tips into sweetness and delivers wafts of French elegance.

**NISHANE AMBRA CALABRIA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)**

While the Turkish niche brand is known more for their heavier fragrances, they also excel at quality freshies with a difference, such as this 2015 release.

The opening is crisply green with notes of green leaves, galbanum and the softly spicy tones of Calabrian bergamot, in particular, in play. It’s fresh without being overly sharp and bitter. Coriander and jasmine add an element of subtle sweetness to the mix. The drydown takes it in an unexpected direction with an elegantly sweet vanilla-dominant amber accord.

Beautifully refreshing from start to finish.

**PENHALIGON’S THE REVENGE OF LADY BLANCHE EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)**

I’m feeling ever so posh. And that’s because I’ve been wearing this 2016 release from the British heritage brand. It’s part of their Portraits Collection, an irreverent take on the idea of the fragrance family. Jolly good, I say. Apologies, I’m channelling again…

It starts out with a note of daffodil (also known as narcissus) – richly green and somewhat spicy. Hyacinth isn’t listed as an official note, but I get wafts of that too. I digress… What can I say, the name of this perfume sounds sinister but the scent itself is delightfully distracting. The earthy powderiness of orris leads to the creamy sandalwood drydown.

If you’re wondering why it’s more expensive than most of the company’s fragrances, that’s because the packaging, including the leopard-head top, is fabulously fancy too.

**SIMONE ANDREOLI MALIBU PARTY IN THE BAY EDP INTENSE* (SIMONE ANDREOLI)**

This 2018 release is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the Italian niche brand and I’m impressed by how its travel inspiration is translated to produce the olfactory equivalent of a daiquiri.

The multi-facedness of lime is revealed in the opening in exemplary style: fresh, bright, invigorating, juicy, green, sweet and sour. The tropical tones of coconut nectar and sugar are added to the blend for just the right amount of dusk-to-dawn sunny sweetness. The rum, warm and fruity, comes through in the drydown, with creamy support from sandalwood.

What a deliciously uplifting cocktail from start to finish. Fantastically festive stuff!

**MAISON CRIVELLI FLEUR DIAMANTINE EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)**

In the five years since its emergence in 2018, the Paris-based niche brand has made a big impact with fragrances inspired by founder Thibaud Crivelli’s experiences.

Part of the launch collection, this EDP takes its cue from “walking through an idyllic white garden with jasmine and orange trees, while eating saffron ice cream”.

I get that feel right from the start with the crisply green treatment of neroli essential oil and jasmine absolute. Mint essential oil adds spicy freshness. The combo of saffron and bitter almond is surprisingly creamy. Settling with clean white musks and earthy oakmoss, it’s one I keep coming back to when the heat gets to me.

HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EDC (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I started wearing this 2022 addition to the French brand’s top-notch Colognes Collection in winter because I’m not particularly seasonal when it comes to fragrances, but must admit it pops in all sorts of wonderful ways in the heat.

Opening with the sparkling citric freshness of Calabrian bergamot, it doesn’t take long for the star of the show, green basil, to make its entrance (FYI: the name of the scent references purple basil, the original inspiration for the perfumer, but that variety can’t be distilled). Yes, it’s fresh and herbal, but Nagel shows its aromatic and subtly spicy facets too, supported by the greenery of geranium. Light touches of patchouli and spice conclude this beauty with musky warmth.

If you tell me I smell like a Mediterranean salad, I’ll take that as a compliment, thank you.

**MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS ENCELADE EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)**

I’ve become a big, big fan of the brand founded by Parisian couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois. His collaborations with perfumer Quentin Bisch always result in something unique. For example, this 2022 release.

On paper the listed notes – rhubarb, cedar, vetiver, leather, sandalwood and tonka bean – seem ordinary enough. But in the hands of Quentin Bisch, they’re pushed in dazzlingly different directions. So you’ll get densely aromatic and earthy greenery contrasted with animalic smokiness and creamy woodiness.

As with the house’s other releases, Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 (2016) and Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede (2019), it’s idiosyncratic, love-it-or-hate-it stuff.

These green fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

August 13, 2024

10 Years Of Ex Nihilo: Reason To Celebrate

When Ex Nihilo (Latin for “out of nothing”) was founded in Paris in 2013 by Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère and Benoît Verdier, their aim was to provide an alternative to the clichés of luxury.

A decade later and with a growing international presence that doesn’t compromise on exclusivity and quality, there’s no doubt the trio have succeeded in bringing something different to niche-dom. While distinctly French, their ethos has a refreshingly rebellious edge too.

IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

Working with the industry’s best perfumers – including Quentin Bisch, Natalie Gracia-Cetto and Jordi Fernández – has paid handsome dividends for the brand. And I appreciate the fact that they acknowledge the expertise of all the creators behind their releases.

Apart from opening standalone stores in Dubai and Los Angeles, in recent years the company has gone the extrait de parfum route with the Quintessence Collection.

This selection of Ex Nihilo fragrances should give you a good idea why this house is worth celebrating (I’m using the release date of its debut launch in 2014) and sniffing out.

EX NIHILO FLEUR NARCOTIQUE EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

The brand’s debut fragrance (2014) remains one of its best-sellers and has developed an enthusiastic cult following over the years for a truly addictive fruity-floral fragrance both men and women can wear.

It opens with the fresh fruitiness of tropical lychee and powdery peach notes. Bergamot keeps it on the right side of sweetness. The florals that follow – peony, jasmine, orange blossom – maintain the airy freshness, but with gorgeous intensity and brightness. The base is all musky and woody, with a hint of earthy moss.

Also look out for the recently released extrait de parfum version (2022), created by the same perfumer.

EX NIHILO VETIVER MOLOKO EDP (GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

If it has vetiver on the bottle, I must try it. If its name references the novel and film A Clockwork Orange, I must try it. This 2014 release doesn’t disappoint.

It opens with the crisp citrus of bergamot and aromatics of cypress. Then plenty of vetiver, woody, earthy and slightly smoky. Just the way I love it. A milk accord and Madagascan vanilla give it a creamy and cosy feeling, while amyris in the drydown amplifies the freshness to complete the composition of intriguing contrasts.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for a vetiver with a twist.

EX NIHILO SWEET MORPHINE EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

With a name like Sweet Morphine, this 2015 release, which plays on the idea of addiction (one of perfumery’s mainstay tropes), delivers in abundance.

It opens with intriguing lilac, fresh floral powderiness in full-on mode. Bergamot, in support, adds to the freshness. There’s more powdery florals in the way of sweet mimosa and iris. The sweetness is heightened with a mega dose of rich bourbon vanilla, while vetiver and patchouli pile on the woody sensuality.

All that powder (get it?) and sweetness might sound like too much of a good thing, but in the hands of Natalie Gracia-Cetto it all comes together in a most effective way.

EX NIHILO ATLAS FEVER EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU)

From the Rolling Stones to Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant and Jimmy Page, Morocco has seen its fair share of rockers making legendary visits. Perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu was inspired by the north African country’s mystique in the creation of this 2017 release.

It opens with lots of spicy pink pepper infused with the smoke of incense. A smidgen of narcissus adds to the exotic vibe.

This perfume is at its most rewarding in the drydown. There’s a creamy and sophisticated sweetness, thanks to notes of vanilla, tonka bean and sandalwood, while a woody accord of guaiac and oak brings earthiness to the composition.

EX NIHILO VIPER GREEN EDP (NADÈGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

This 2018 release might not be as venomous as its name suggests, but there’s still plenty to seduce the senses in the style the brand does so well.

It opens with a fresh citrus burst of green mandarin. The slight bitterness is amplified by a big dose of galbanum. Iris is one of the listed floral notes, but I can’t detect it among all the hyper greenness.

Angelica root adds to the effect, while dashes of patchouli and vetiver bring an earthy and woody dimension to the drydown.

EX NIHILO HONORÉ DELIGHTS EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Gourmands range from the sweet and sticky-icky to the perfectly posh. Ex Nihilo HonoréDelights is definitely the latter, even though perfumer Natalie Gracia-Cetto used no obvious edible notes in its creation.

This 2020 release opens with fresh notes of neroli and bergamot. A large helping of oh-so-silky ambrette is blended with powdery iris and honeyed orange blossom. The drydown is luxuriously creamy, with notes of sandalwood and white musk.

I feel like I’m sitting in one of the French capital’s top patisseries when I wear this cleverly composed perfume.

EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

When I first saw the name of this 2021 release, my thoughts went in all sorts of boozy, gourmand-ish directions. Perhaps that’s why I didn’t click with this EDP at first. I was expecting something decadent, whereas it’s more about connecting with the joys of nature. Having spent more time with it, I’m loving its distinctive simplicity.

It opens with fresh ’n spicy notes of bergamot and ginger. And then gets really interesting with a large dose of Akigalawood. Perfumer Jordi Fernández maximises the spicy-musky patchouli qualities of the Givaudan captive molecule with impressive results.

A fresh rendition of vetiver and cedar closes the tight and cohesive composition with style.

EX NIHILO IRIS PORCELANA EDP (DALIA IZEM)

Just when I thought I’d smelled all the possible variations on the iris theme, along comes this 2022 release. Good to see the brand giving a relatively unknown perfumer the chance to show her olfactory skills.

According to the Ex Nihilo website, Dalia Izem was inspired by the delicacy of iris pallida (one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery) and French porcelain in the creation of this EDP. That refinement is evident from the airy opening featuring violet leaf. The iris has all the powderiness I expect but with a softly fresh sweetness.

Settling with the creaminess of musk and sandalwood, it’s a welcome addition to the iris category.

EX NIHILO OUTCAST BLUE EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

Perhaps because of the associations of blue with freshies, I was expecting this 2022 release to have that vibe. Mais, non! The EDP is a far more interesting proposition than that well-worn genre.

The intro is all about the warm spice of pepper and saffron, with the soft and soothing woodiness of cedar in support. A lily-of-the-valley note makes a soapy contribution too. It culminates with the earthiness of vetiver, oakmoss and patchouli. Oh, and did I mention the large helping of tobacco, which adds to the richness and complexity of this standout scent?

It’s available in an extrait de parfum concentration, also created by Jordi Fernández.

EX NIHILO BLUE TALISMAN EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

Tutti frutti

Fruity oudy

Froudy (apologies to Little Richard)

Where am I going with this? Please bear with me as I work this out in real time.

This 2023 release starts out fresh and fruity with notes of ginger and orange blossom, but especially pear. The woodiness – via the Givaudan captive molecules Georgywood and Akigalawood – is clean but potent.

There’s an oud-ish element to this fragrance but not of the “I’m oud and don’t you forget it!” variety, along with musk in the drydown. It was not an immediate love, but has grown on me with each wearing.

Ex Nihilo fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

July 29, 2024

DON’T TRIGGER ME…

Using the parlance of pop psychology, these words / phrases / sentences are guaranteed to trigger me.

Some are perfume specific, others reflect my copy-editing background in which I’m super careful with the use of certain words (not every new hyped niche release can be a “masterpiece”, surely?). Or at least try to be.

Most are self-explanatory. Others are quite petty. And please note, I’m also not above contradicting myself.

Which words / phrases are sure to set you off?

These are some of my regular red alerts:

DUPE

LONG-LASTING PERFUME

INFLUENCER

BEAST MODE

MASTERPIECE

OLD FASHIONED

I ONLY WEAR NICHE FRAGRANCES

NATURAL INGREDIENTS ARE THE BEST

MASTER PERFUMER

June 29, 2024

Dora Baghriche Interview: “Intuition Is My Most Precious Ally”

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Dora Baghriche may have learned the art of diplomacy since her fragrance debut in 2011, Versace Vanitas EDT. But she remains refreshingly honest about her work as a perfumer. From our communications, I pick up she’s feeling overwhelmed. Perfectly understandable with all the pressures and demands of her profession.

IMAGE: Versace.

She comes across as a sensitive soul. And looking at her body of work so far (a selection below), there’s an impressive variety across several genres:

+ Versace Vanitas EDT (2011)

+ Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011)

+ L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013)

+ Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice EDT (2014)

+ Gloria Vanderbilt Minuit à New York EDP (2015)

+ Juicy Couture I Am Juicy Couture EDP (2015)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris EDP (2016)

+ Glossier You EDP (2017)

+ Chopard Happy Chopard Bigaradia EDP (2018)

+ Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Rose & Rose EDP (2019)

+ Lionel Richie Hello EDT (2019)

+ Ariana Grande R.E.M. EDP (2020)

+ Kenzo Flower Poppy Bouquet EDP (2020)

+ Armani Privé Gardénia Antigua EDT (2020)

+ Carolina Herrera 212 Heroes Forever Young EDP (2022)

+ Paco Rabanne Fame EDP (2022)

+ Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP (2023)

+ Coty Infiniment Or de Moi Parfum (2024)

Initially, Dora Baghriche had her eye on a career in journalism but even as a perfumer, she manages to bring elements of that into her work. “Journalism was a way to fulfil an endless curiosity and appetite for people, history and stories, for nature too. I am adding my imagination to the reality I see,” she says.

IMAGES OF DORA BAGHRICHE: dsm-firmenich.

Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. What does that mean for your career?

Thank you! It always feels good when your work and commitment are recognised by your company. It’s an important step in a career.

Journalism was your first career choice before you enrolled at ISIPCA. Are you able to apply any journalistic principles to your work as a perfumer?

Yes, I wanted to be a reporter, to travel and witness the world. I have such an endless admiration for these men and women who courageously try to inform us about conflicts, major events, good or bad. I wanted to be a voice and an eye for what and who is invisible, or far, or ignored. This comes from my thirst for justice and freedom since my youngest age.

IMAGE: Glossier.

Journalism was also a way to fulfil an endless curiosity and appetite for people, history and stories, for nature too. Creating fragrances allows me to express these values in a different form. I am adding my imagination to the reality I see…

How do you remember your fine fragrance debut?

My debut in perfumery is a good memory, even though it was all about fighting to prove myself and to exist among the established perfumers. Being a young perfumer requires energy, resilience, patience and fearlessness.

I had all these qualities, but I was also too direct, with no filter. I have learned a bit of useful diplomacy.

“My debut is a good memory, even though it was all about fighting to prove myself and to exist among the established perfumers.” – Dora Baghriche

IMAGE: Cacharel.

Do you approach perfumery as a technical or intuitive endeavour?

I work with my intuition – it is my most precious ally. Technique comes afterwards to make this intuition something “presentable”.

Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011) is an early creation of yours. In what way does it represent you as a perfumer?

Still Life is a creation around yuzu and pepper – among my favourite tastes and sensations. These ingredients are the symbol of high energy, that’s probably why they are often the stars of festive cocktails. I still love Still Life. This fragrance is like an endless party.

IMAGE: Olfactive Studio.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013) is a different type of fig fragrance. How did you approach its creation?

It’s my vision of the sweet breath of the south of the Mediterranean. It’s about sage. Sage also means “savage”, the same root. And for me, the region of Provence means the wild, the freedom and also the softness. This sage is full of softness, surrounded by jasmine marmalade and fig.

You’re part of the team behind Paco Rabanne Fame. These high-profile projects must come with a lot of pressure. How do you deal with those stresses?

Indeed, pressure is part of my world. Winning a big project is always a race you need to be well prepared for – it is psychologically and physically overwhelming. Dealing with competition, with doubts, with others’ tastes and personalities, even within your own team, the stress can be high.

“It’s important to stay open to others. Then creation can find peace again.” – Dora Baghriche

But I’ve learned to domesticate pressure. And when it’s becoming too hard to take a step back. It’s important to stay positive, open to others, rely on the people you trust. Then anything can be smoother, and creation can find peace again.

You’ve created several fragrances for Chopard. Has this entailed meeting the brand’s artistic director, Caroline Scheufele?

I work a lot with Chopard and I love this house. I met Caroline Scheufele a few years ago and had both a personal and artistic crush for her and for her work. She is audacious, sensitive, a beautiful soul. She loves perfumes among other arts.

IMAGE: Chopard.

We shared how we could bring her perfume collection to the next level and to create fragrances that are the most faithful to the spirit of the house: quality, creativity and a bit of the unexpected.

Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP is a 2023 co-creation of yours with Daphné Bugey. Musk is an integral part of the brand’s fragrance identity. What kind of musk/s did you use in its creation?

All of Me is the encounter of geranium and an incredible heart of musk. We worked with the latest generation of musks offered by dsm-firmenich’s palette. Our company is called “the house of musks”. We are pioneers in the research for new musks with different tonalities, different facets.

For All of Me, we worked with six different musks – all 100% biodegradable and with interesting and complementary facets. While Muscone and Muscenone are dirty and wild, Helvetolide brings a clean, soft facet, for example. That’s why the result of this musky signature is not flat, but multi-dimensional, like Mr Narciso Rodriguez’s vision of women.

“While Muscone and Muscenone are dirty and wild, Helvetolide brings a clean, soft facet.” – Dora Baghriche

When you’re not working, what would we find you doing?

When I’m not working, I do many things. Reading first. I am what we call a heavy reader – I can read up to three books a week. I used to practise Japanese archery but not anymore, now I am taking piano lessons again because I miss music.

IMAGE: Giorgio Armani.

What I love the most is to discover new worlds, new fields. I might not have time to become an expert in everything, but I love to dive into a new discipline and understand a little bit of its meaning, its power, its benefits.

June 14, 2024

Lionel Paillès – An Interview With The Author Of Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance

I’d been wanting to read another perfume book for a while. Even better, if it’s about a subject I’m more and more interested in – ingredients. And so when a copy of Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance by Lionel Paillès was sent to me, I was chuffed to say the least.

Perfumery is about many things. But fundamentally it’s about the use of ingredients: whether naturals and/or synthetics, increasingly biotechnology.

Starting with the presence of the Swiss flavour and fragrance company dsm-firmenich in Grasse, the book, through meticulous research and brilliant photography, presents a picture of a firm, its perfumers, technicians and suppliers, at the forefront of research and science in the field of ingredients.

Or should that be fields of ingredients? Although technology is central, it all starts with the suppliers and farmers in their fields of roses, lavender, jasmine, tuberose and mimosa in the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse.

While the book is very much about dsm-firmenich, it’s not a glorified sales pitch. Lionel Paillès is too much of a professional perfume writer to put his name on that sort of project.

“While the book is very much about dsm-firmenich, it’s not a glorified sales pitch.”

I had not heard of Lionel Paillès before receiving this book. The perfume critic, journalist and Fragrance Foundation judge is the author of titles such as Chanel: The Art of Creating Fragrance: Flowers of the French Riviera (Abrams, 2016) and Petit Lexique des amateurs épris d’odeurs et de parfums with Jean-Claude Ellena (Actes Sud, 2021).

Some of the things I love about this book (apart from the teeny-weeny font size of captions – perhaps time for new glasses, Richard?):

+ The language of fragrances: an easy-to-understand glossary of terms from “absolute” and “biomass” to “supercritical fluid extraction (SPF)” and “upcycling”.

+ It emphasises the interconnection of science and nature and, in particular, the role of innovation in the process of fragrance creation.

+ While looking at many of the processes behind the scent scenes, it doesn’t lose sight of the alchemy and mystery in perfumery.

Before I get to the interview with Lionel Paillès, some fast facts below for the perfume-geek lurking in all of us:

DID YOU KNOW?

+ Grasse was placed on Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity List in 2018 for its collective perfumery know-how.

+ Principal perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin and master perfumers Alberto Morillas, Nathalie Lorson, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc are among the employees of dsm-firmenich.

+ These perfumers meet three times a year in Grasse at Villa Botanica, where Fabrice Pellegrin, the company’s director of Natural Product Research and Innovation, presents the latest innovations. It is these perfumers who approve each line of development one by one, after smelling, evaluating and comparing them to other ingredients on the market.

+ The centifolia rose is harvested by hand only, flower by flower, over a period of three to four weeks in the middle of the month of May. That’s why it is also known as the “May rose”.

+ True lavender lends itself better to luxury perfume formulas. However, lavandin yields three times more essential oil than true lavender, which makes it particularly sought-after for “functional perfumery” (washing powder and liquid, soap, shower gel, shampoo).

+ A good jasmine picker harvests 600g to 800g of flowers per hour, which amounts to 6kg to 7kg of flowers in a day’s work.

+ Originally from Australia, mimosa (part of the acacia family), with its small, downy yellow flowers, was introduced to the south of France in the 19th century.

Source: Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance by Lionel Paillès.

Tell me about your background and how you got into writing about perfumes.

I met Jean-Claude Ellena in 2010 during an article I wrote for L’Officiel Voyage magazine. I knew nothing about perfume, but his speech immediately fascinated me. I decided to stop everything and train myself: learning raw materials and classic accords at the Cinquième Sens school, then with different perfumers (notably Jean-Christophe Hérault, picture below).

How long was this book in the making?

I wrote it between summer 2022 and summer 2023. We did six reports in Grasse in different seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Who initiated the project?

I knew the perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin (picture below), who became a friend, well. Ten years ago, he introduced me to dsm-firmenich’s extraordinary facilities in Grasse. When he spoke to me in 2021 about the Villa Botanica project, I suggested that we take the opportunity to imagine a book around Grasse perfume plants and their transformation. A work which is aimed at both the general public and professionals in the perfume industry.

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

What do you want people to understand from reading the book?

A beautiful perfume plant is not an end in itself and that it is its transformation that gives it all its value. The art of the perfumer would be nothing without the science necessary to transform the plant into an ingredient.

“A beautiful perfume plant is not an end in itself. Its transformation gives it all its value.” – Lionel Paillès

How would you rate your knowledge of perfume ingredients before writing the book?

I had bookish knowledge and I had participated in a rose harvest in Grasse. That is just about everything. I learned everything by going to Grasse to the dsm-firmenich factories and meeting the passionate farmers who are partners of the Swiss company.

What stood out for you as the project progressed?

I discovered that the entire Grasse region lived to the rhythm of the same passion: that of perfume. I also understood how the time of perfume was an eminently long time. If consumers knew how long it takes to mature a beautiful jasmine, transform it into an extract and make it the beating heart of a perfume, they would better understand the price of perfume.

The book talks a lot about Grasse, the traditional heart of French perfumery. Is it possible for the region to regain its former glory?

Since the big brands (Louis Vuitton, Dior) moved there, signing partnership contracts with flower producers, Grasse has regained its aura. The know-how of Grasse has been classified as a Unesco Intangible Heritage: the cultivation of perfume plants, the transformation and creation of perfume. Nowhere else in the world is so much know-how concentrated in one place.

“Nowhere else in the world is so much know-how concentrated in one place.” – Lionel Paillès

The book features a cast of suppliers, farmers, technicians and perfumers. Did you get to meet all of them?

Yes, I had the chance to meet all the partners of dsm-firmenich. Those who produce the rose; those who produce jasmine (Alexandra Richard impressed me with her determination and passion), mimosa, violet or tuberose.

The Villa Botanica is a symbol of dsm-firmenich’s position in Grasse. What role does this house play in raising consumer awareness of the role of science in perfumery?

It is both a place of creation, where perfumers extract themselves from their daily life, and a place of education, where brands come to discover perfume plants and the know-how of extraction developed over decades by dsm-firmenich.

Biotechnology increasingly appears to be the future of perfume ingredients. The Firgood process is particularly fascinating. What can you tell me about it?

This is a process that uses microwaves, like the oven in your kitchen. By heating the plant in an oven, the molecules heat up by rubbing together and release their olfactory particles. All perfume houses are looking for extraction methods that do not use petrochemical solvents and which consume little energy and water. The Firgood addresses these two issues. In addition, it makes it possible to extract so-called “dumb” flowers, the natural extract of which did not exist until now.

Why is there such a push for natural ingredients now?

Naturalness is a consumer requirement that has existed for around 10 years but has increased with Covid. I really like natural extracts: they bring richness and complexity to the perfume. They also allow us to tell beautiful stories of women and men: the farmers who have been cultivating these plants for decades and sometimes generations.

“Natural extracts allow us to tell stories of the farmers who have been cultivating these plants for decades.” – Lionel Paillès

And what about synthetics?

The synthetic molecule is essential to perfume. It allows the perfume to stick to the skin and make it last long throughout the day.

The superb photography by Philippe Frisée in this book deserves a mention. How did you work with him?

We were in Grasse together on all the reports. Philippe did not have any specific knowledge of plants. It comes from fashion and brings a new and non-cliché look at the perfume plant.

The idea was to work like I work in the press when I go reporting: by joining our eyes and discovering things together.

*Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance (Gallimard) by Lionel Paillès is available from selected bookstores.

May 19, 2024

Frédéric Malle: A Pictorial Celebration

This year’s biggest news in perfume-land? No, not the continued obsession with vanilla. It can only be the formal announcement that Frédéric Malle will be stepping away from the brand he founded in 2000, at the end of June 2024.

Let’s put aside all the teeth-gnashing at what this means for the future of the company and the significance that he’s finally stepping away 10 years after selling to The Estée Lauder Companies in 2014.

And let’s focus on Frédéric Malle’s immense contribution to the industry.

How about a bit of perfume humour to soften the blow: what do new niche brands want to be when they grow up? Frédéric Malle, of course.

Seriously, though, few perfume companies have the pedigree of the maison founded 24 years ago by the worldly Parisian.

Some background on the man himself. He grew up surrounded by luxury and elegance. His grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Parfums Christian Dior and his mother was artistic director of the same company.

After working for Laboratoires Roure, where his appreciation of the finest ingredients and the process of creation were honed, the art history graduate put his knowledge to great use when he launched his own eponymous brand in 2000.

If I’m being correct and super French, it’s Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, because he compared himself to an editor / publisher in the way he worked with his chosen perfumers.

It’s become a niche cliché – the best perfumers and materials, unlimited creative freedom, quality and craftsmanship over crass commercialism – but that’s because there’s much truth in it when we’re talking about this house.

From the launch collection and beyond, numerous releases have gone onto become modern classics and genre bests, always with the creativity of his collaborators in the spotlight.

Let’s not forget what was a novel idea – for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle – is an industry aspiration now.

I was going to do an overview of the perfumes featured here but realised this selection in pics says it all. Searching for all these fragrances also turned out to be a nostalgia-fest for yours truly as I rediscovered earlier pics of mine. So I can say with confidence and much affection that Frédéric Malle is an integral part of my fragrance world.

Frederic Malle Music For A While EDP

Any exclusions and there are several – Lipstick Rose EDP (2000), Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP (2002), Carnal Flower EDP (2005), Geranium Pour Monsieur ED (2009) , Portrait of a Lady (2010), among others – are not deliberate. Just that there are so many superb Frédéric Malles.

Frédéric Malle is available in South Africa from Skins.

May 6, 2024

Amandine Clerc-Marie Interview: “Crafting Fragrances Is Neither A Lonely Art, Nor A Straight Line”

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

When I received news earlier this year that Amandine Clerc-Marie had been promoted to principal perfumer at dsm-firmenich, I wasn’t surprised.

The perfumer has created a steady and substantial body of work since her debut in 2003, with creations that include:

+ Kenneth Cole Black EDP (2004)

+ Jovoy Chypre EDP (2007)

+ Chloé EDP (2008)

+ MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP (2008)

+ Jaguar Vision EDT (2010)

+ Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud EDP (2011)

+ Atkinsons Oud Save The King EDP (2013)

+ Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014)

+ Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP (2015)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP (2015)

+ Sisley Izia EDP (2017)

+ Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP (2018)

+ Davidoff Cool Water Intense For Her EDP (2019)

+ Escada Candy Love EDT (2020)

+ Valentino Voce Viva EDP (2020)

+ Estée Lauder Sensuous Stars EDP (2021)

+ Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP (2022)

+ Burberry Goddess EDP (2023)

From earlier wins such as Lui Rochas EDT and Chloé EDP to huge hits such as Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Amandine Clerc-Marie has made her mark with her customary attention to quality and the all-important hook.

IMAGE: Lancôme

While her finesse with the queen of florals is clear in several creations, I noticed as I was putting this story together, Amandine Clerc-Marie is the queen herself when it comes to vanilla. The ingredient pops up in everything from Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Mugler Aura EDP and Escada Candy Love EDT to Valentino Voce Viva EDP and Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP.

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. For those who aren’t in the industry, what does a principal perfumer do?

I create a lot of fragrances for many fine fragrance brands. I meet artists, be they designers or creative directors; I spend time with clients to understand what they’re after.

“A perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

I also like to spend time with our trainee perfumers as I value the high importance of transmission in our profession. I take part in evaluation sessions during which new qualities or even new ingredients are presented to me. I come up with new combinations. You know, a perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!

IMAGE: MDCI Parfums.

Where did perfumery start for you?

Ever since I was a child, I’ve had a passion for perfume. My mother worked for a perfume house. Creating perfume seems to be part of my DNA.

My earliest olfactive memories are of my grandfather’s home in Normandy, France, where I wandered freely, discovering the natural world around me. I can still close my eyes and remember the pungent odours of grass and crumpled leaves bordering the garden pond with its wet, humid air – fresh, green and aromatic. I also recall the smell of ripe apples which my grandfather made into his own cider, a scent and taste I still love today.

My own career came about quite naturally. During my apprenticeship, while learning about raw materials, my sense of smell suddenly came to life. At the end of my studies at ISIPCA, I wrote a thesis on modernising the leather note in Hermès Bel Ami EDT and it was at this point that I met Michel Almairac, with whom I worked for more than 10 years at Robertet.

IMAGE: Robertet

Working with Michel Almairac after completing your studies at ISIPCA must have been a formative experience for you. What do you value most about your time spent with him?

Michel Almairac taught me to work on short formulations, with only raw materials essential in my formula. No superfluous ingredients were allowed. Just like him, I still overdose one or two notes at the beginning of the composition, keeping his practice of starting with something a little bit crazy to affirm a strong stance. But I learned to balance his overdose faster than what I used to.

“He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision. He taught me everything with kindness and patience, but still with demand.

What was your fine fragrance debut? And how did your career progress from there?

My very first win was a woody-chypre fragrance called Lui Rochas, with Michel, in 2003. The big turning point was then in 2008 with the creation with Michel Almairac of Chloé EDP that instantly became a classic.

Then in 2011, I joined dsm-firmenich and had the opportunity to start working with masters, such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc, who have been great partners and mentors for me here.

IMAGE: Rochas.

What advice would you give to young perfumers just starting their careers?

I would tell them to demand the best of themselves, stay determined, be diligent and always remain optimistic.

You’ve created several rose-focused fragrances. For example, Chloé EDP (2008), Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014) and Sisley Izia EDP (2017). Is this an ingredient you particularly enjoy working with?

Rose is the most fascinating ingredient. Even though she is considered the “queen of perfumery”, it’s true that only the rose can offer such a multi-faceted experience with so many varieties.

Perfumers have never ceased to explore roses and I doubt that will ever stop. Roses have all the qualities that can be expected in a perfume and are themselves one of the most complex perfumes.

Your 2017 co-creation Mugler Aura EDP pushed the boundaries for a designer fragrance and I would imagine it took some time to reach the final version. Was this project more complicated than others?

Indeed, it’s been one of the most complicated creations that I have worked on. We wanted it to be innovative and unique and also extremely powerful.

It was also a huge challenge for our group of perfumers (Daphné Bugey, Christophe Raynaud, Marie Salamagne and Olivier Cresp) to come up with a new proposition after the mythical Angel – a personal favourite – and the blockbuster Alien. It’s in Mugler’s DNA to challenge the world of perfumery with every new creation, which puts a bit of pressure on you!

IMAGE: Mugler.

Burberry Goddess (2023) is a recent success of yours. You used the FirGood technology in its creation. It sounds very technical. Could you simplify it for us?

For Goddess, I used three distinct types of vanilla extraction. The first is a Vanilla infusion, which provides the brightest woody-vanilla possible, then I used FirGood Vanilla for the first time in a fragrance: this innovative technology enables us to extract vanilla without any solvent, obtaining a sweet, rich and animalic vanilla. Lastly, with an absolute, which is darker and richer, gave the fragrance a mysterious, milky aspect.

“Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

Exploring vanilla was a very inspiring playground. What really interested me about this project was discovering its new facets. Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery. Bringing a totally new vision of vanilla to Burberry was my day-to-day challenge, and I loved it!

I have created the most powerful vanilla overdose on the market. It’s totally new and with a new vanilla extract, dsm-firmenich’s proprietary vanilla FirGood, that makes this creation so unique.

There’s no doubting your technical and creative skills. What other quality do you bring to projects that makes them such a success?

Being a visual person, I start the creation process with raw materials and the desire to pass on a strong olfactory message.

I begin with one or two raw materials to create a specific accord, which should be strong enough to be reworked for months and which will serve as my North Star and the signature of the fragrance. Once I have the initial accord, I surround it with other notes to present different samples to the brand, each representing a strong perspective. Finally, I tweak once more, depending on the brand’s feedback, to craft the finished scent.

Creating fragrances is similar to sculpting. We mould the invisible, working on volumes of specific scents to adjust the overall performance of notes.

It’s important to know that crafting fragrances is neither a lonely art, nor a straight line. We really count on the advice and help of our laboratory team, and often execute many rounds of iterations that push our creative boundaries.

Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP and Burberry Goddess EDP are available in South Africa from selected Edgars stores nationwide.

April 6, 2024

Bulgari Man In Black Parfum Review

It’s been 10 years since Bulgari Man in Black EDP became a huge hit for the Italian luxury jewellery brand. Even inveterate niche snobs succumbed to its undeniable allure. Will the recently launched Bulgari Man in Black Parfum be equally popular?

PERFUMER

Alberto Morillas is no stranger to the Bulgari Man franchise. In fact, since its inception in 2010, he has created all the fragrances in the range. So no surprise to see the maestro behind Bulgari Man in Black Parfum.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for dsm-firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum - Alberto Morillas

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

If you want to know why Alberto Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT (1996), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Amouage Journey Man EDP (2014), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

It’s spice and all things very nice with a combo of cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper in the opening. Sometimes it’s more peppery on my skin, which could be the elemi* at work.

It goes in a floral direction with tuberose (always welcome in male fragrances), building on the warmth of the opening. The white floral has a reputation for being animalic, but the perfumer focuses on its creaminess instead, with powdery iris in the background.

With the perfume’s name, it’s welcome to the darker side in the drydown, but in an accessible way. There’s rich earthiness from patchouli and cypriol, while benzoin gives it an element of soft vanilla-ish sweetness.

Is that you I hear wanting to know about the rum booziness that was such an integral part of the original’s appeal? It’s one of the first things I looked out for when I started wearing Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s not featured in this one. But there’s more than enough to compensate for its absence.

The various elements come together to produce a fragrance that while smooth and sophisticated presents plenty of depth and character. I expect quality from Bulgari and the brand doesn’t disappoint with this latest addition to one of the more dependable designer franchises.

*As Alberto Morillas works for dsm-firmenich, it’s also good to see this parfum reflecting the company’s increasing commitment to responsibly sourced ingredients. For example, the elemi from the Philippines (the resin is hand harvested by farmers from July to March) comes from an established partnership that includes a digital system, Path2Farm, guaranteeing the traceability of the raw material from farm to final product.

THE PARFUM FACTOR

What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the deluge of parfums on the market, especially from big designer brands.

As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and extrait de parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.

If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about parfums, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.

If an eau fraiche (anything from 1 – 3%) and eau de cologne (2 – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then a parfum is the highest (20 to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.

EARTHLY ELEGANCE: Launched in 2009 and created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Terre d’Hermès Parfum is one of the best parfums, designer or otherwise.

To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. We’re looking at you Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Le Parfum EDP Intense and others like it.

The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s a parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.

LEATHER REPORT: Released in 2018, way before the current invasion, Cartier Déclaration Parfum is another fine example of the genre.

Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s a parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?

Which brings me back to Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s a parfum in terms of the concentration of ingredients, BUT it’s not dreaded beast-mode stuff. This is all good for me. I’ll certainly add it to the list of designer (and other) parfums I hold in high regard.

OTHER FRAGRANCES IN THE BULGARI MAN RANGE

With his credentials, Alberto Morillas is one of the few perfumers to create the original and all subsequent flankers in ranges such as Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, Gucci Bloom and Bvlgari Man. Perhaps it’s part of the contract when he wins yet another brief.

Those marked with ** have been discontinued but are well worth seeking out. However, don’t pay crazy money for them just because I recommend them.

BULGARI MAN EDT (2010)**

The line makes its debut and sets the tone for future versions with its chic feel. Includes standout notes of violet leaf, bergamot, vetiver, Cashmeran and honey.

BULGARI MAN IN BLACK EDP (2014)

One of the best iterations, it opens with an irresistible trio of spice, rum and tobacco notes. They’re perfectly blended and balanced.

The sensual mood continues with smooth leather and a hint of powdery iris. The tonka bean, guaiac wood and benzoin notes in the drydown have a sophisticated vanilla-ish facet.

A snug treat.

**BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)**

Lots of spice, leather and oud + a bit of rum booziness and florals (tuberose, rose) = oriental with major sex appeal.

**BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)**

Rum meets the freshness and greenery of citrus, then deftly contrasted with the sunny white florals of tuberose and orange blossom. An amber accord, benzoin and sandalwood up the creamy warmth.

BULGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (2018)

After all that rum booziness, the range takes a more sober direction with a trio of woodiness – cypress, cedar, vetiver – supported by the fresh spiciness of lemon and coriander.

The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Signature scent material, if that’s your thing.

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (2019)

A citrusy spin on its predecessor. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedarwood and cypriol oil.

There’s a big dose of Ambrox in this creation, which, depending on your view on this synthetic form of ambergris, will be good or bad news. It’s enhanced by a white musk note.

Not the most exciting fragrance, but it will make you feel good.

BULGARI MAN GLACIAL ESSENCE EDP (2020)

No prizes for guessing that with a name like Glacial Essence, this is a freshie.

Juniper berries, cool and aromatic, stand out in the opening. There’s a hint of spicy ginger in the background. A note of Australian sandalwood brings creamy smoothness to the composition, while orris root does its powdery thing.

And now for some science (which perfumery is often about). Clearwood features in the drydown. This synthetic molecule from dsm-firmenich is a softer and airier version of patchouli and completes the scent in a clean and modern way.

BULGARI MAN TERRAE ESSENCE EDP (2021)

Zesty citron leads the way to vetiver and orris concrete, their woodiness complemented by just the right amount of sensual smokiness and spiciness via resinous styrax.

Seemingly straightforward stuff, but compelling nevertheless in a dry style.

BULGARI MAN RAIN ESSENCE EDP (2023)

The opening is slightly citric (orange) and somewhat green and herbal (green tea). The latter features often in Bulgari fragrances, which should come as no surprise – the brand has the distinction of launching the first tea scent in 1992 (the Jean-Claude Ellena creation Bulgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert EDC). The white lotus accord contributes a floral and aquatic aspect, without going overboard on the waterworks.

Alberto Morillas is known for his love of and expertise with musks and while there’s plenty of that powderiness here, it’s not overpowering.

The warm amber accord in the drydown is joined by the musky-spicy tones of guaiac wood.

If I’m being fussy and literal, it doesn’t necessarily make me think of rain when I wear it. But it certainly has the rejuvenating qualities of that element, so mission accomplished.

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DESTINATION

WHERE WE STAYED

THEN AND NOW

FRAGRANCE COMPANIONS

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CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

CREED GREEN IRISH TWEED* (PIERRE BOURDON)

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS & ANNIE BUZANTIAN)

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL EDT (CALICE BECKER)

DIPTYQUE PHILOSYKOS EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

COMME DES GARÇONS AMAZINGREEN EDP* (JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT)

CACHAREL ANAÏS ANAÏS L’ORIGINAL EDT (ROGER PELLEGRINO, ROBERT GONNON, PAUL LEGER & RAYMOND CHAILLAN)

NISHANE AMBRA CALABRIA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)

PENHALIGON’S THE REVENGE OF LADY BLANCHE EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

SIMONE ANDREOLI MALIBU PARTY IN THE BAY EDP INTENSE* (SIMONE ANDREOLI)

MAISON CRIVELLI FLEUR DIAMANTINE EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

HERMÈS EAU DE BASILIC POURPRE EDC (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS ENCELADE EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)

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EX NIHILO FLEUR NARCOTIQUE EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

EX NIHILO VETIVER MOLOKO EDP (GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

EX NIHILO SWEET MORPHINE EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

EX NIHILO ATLAS FEVER EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU)

EX NIHILO VIPER GREEN EDP (NADÈGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

EX NIHILO HONORÉ DELIGHTS EDP (NATALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

EX NIHILO IRIS PORCELANA EDP (DALIA IZEM)

EX NIHILO OUTCAST BLUE EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

EX NIHILO BLUE TALISMAN EDP (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

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Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. What does that mean for your career?

Journalism was your first career choice before you enrolled at ISIPCA. Are you able to apply any journalistic principles to your work as a perfumer?

How do you remember your fine fragrance debut?

Do you approach perfumery as a technical or intuitive endeavour?

Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011) is an early creation of yours. In what way does it represent you as a perfumer?

L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013) is a different type of fig fragrance. How did you approach its creation?

You’re part of the team behind Paco Rabanne Fame. These high-profile projects must come with a lot of pressure. How do you deal with those stresses?

You’ve created several fragrances for Chopard. Has this entailed meeting the brand’s artistic director, Caroline Scheufele?

Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP is a 2023 co-creation of yours with Daphné Bugey. Musk is an integral part of the brand’s fragrance identity. What kind of musk/s did you use in its creation?

When you’re not working, what would we find you doing?

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DID YOU KNOW?

Tell me about your background and how you got into writing about perfumes.

How long was this book in the making?

Who initiated the project?

What do you want people to understand from reading the book?

How would you rate your knowledge of perfume ingredients before writing the book?

What stood out for you as the project progressed?

The book talks a lot about Grasse, the traditional heart of French perfumery. Is it possible for the region to regain its former glory?

The book features a cast of suppliers, farmers, technicians and perfumers. Did you get to meet all of them?

The Villa Botanica is a symbol of dsm-firmenich’s position in Grasse. What role does this house play in raising consumer awareness of the role of science in perfumery?

Biotechnology increasingly appears to be the future of perfume ingredients. The Firgood process is particularly fascinating. What can you tell me about it?

Why is there such a push for natural ingredients now?

And what about synthetics?

The superb photography by Philippe Frisée in this book deserves a mention. How did you work with him?

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Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. For those who aren’t in the industry, what does a principal perfumer do?

Where did perfumery start for you?

Working with Michel Almairac after completing your studies at ISIPCA must have been a formative experience for you. What do you value most about your time spent with him?

What was your fine fragrance debut? And how did your career progress from there?

What advice would you give to young perfumers just starting their careers?

You’ve created several rose-focused fragrances. For example, Chloé EDP (2008), Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014) and Sisley Izia EDP (2017). Is this an ingredient you particularly enjoy working with?

Your 2017 co-creation Mugler Aura EDP pushed the boundaries for a designer fragrance and I would imagine it took some time to reach the final version. Was this project more complicated than others?

Burberry Goddess (2023) is a recent success of yours. You used the FirGood technology in its creation. It sounds very technical. Could you simplify it for us?

There’s no doubting your technical and creative skills. What other quality do you bring to projects that makes them such a success?

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PERFUMER

SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

**CREED GREEN IRISH TWEED* (PIERRE BOURDON)**

**DIPTYQUE PHILOSYKOS EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)**

COMME DES GARÇONS **AMAZINGREEN EDP* (JEAN-CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT)**

**NISHANE AMBRA CALABRIA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (JORGE LEE)**

**PENHALIGON’S THE REVENGE OF LADY BLANCHE EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)**

**SIMONE ANDREOLI MALIBU PARTY IN THE BAY EDP INTENSE* (SIMONE ANDREOLI)**

**MAISON CRIVELLI FLEUR DIAMANTINE EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)**

**MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS ENCELADE EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)**

BULGARI MAN EDT (2010)**

**BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)**

**BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)**