Citrus Fragrances: Am I Equipped For A Cruel Summer?

Citrus Fragrances - Rochas Eau de Rochas Homme EDT

When temperatures recently hit the upper twenties and it was only early spring, I knew, to quote, the lyrics of the 1980s Bananarama hit, “It’s a cruel, (cruel) cruel summer”, I’d better gather some of my favourite citrus fragrances. ASAP.

Living on the southern tip of Africa, in Johannesburg, is problematic in summer. My level of comfort is 25°C max. Anything over that and I start to wilt. Rapidly.

Citrus Fragrances - Dunhill Icon EDP

All I want is to feel refreshed and elegant, as opposed to too hot and very bothered. That’s not too demanding, is it?

This selection of citrus fragrances is guaranteed to put the cool into old school. You’re allowed to groan…

Any citrus favourites of yours? And do you dread summer like I do?

Citrus Fragrances - John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

MAURER & WIRTZ 4711 ORIGINAL EAU DE COLOGNE (WILHELM MUELHENS)

There aren’t many fragrances that have the pedigree of 4711 Original Eau de Cologne (you can also call it “the poor man’s Tom Ford Neroli Portofino”). Launched in 1792 and created by Wilhelm Muelhens, apparently its formula hasn’t changed 230+ years later.

What also hasn’t changed over the decades (no, I haven’t been around as long) is the effect this fragrant tonic has on my mood.

The intro is all about uplifting citrus notes, including orange, lemon and bergamot, with basil, rosemary and lavender adding aromatics to the freshness. A big dose of neroli brings the best kind of feel-good sunshine whenever I douse myself in the stuff.

The splash-on format makes me feel rather chic, too.

Citrus Fragrances - 4711 Original Eau de Cologne

ROCHAS EAU DE ROCHAS HOMME EDT (NICOLAS MAMOUNAS)

I don’t normally wear a fragrance for its opening, but the one for Eau de Rochas Homme is so good at helping lift the mood and focus the thoughts, I do so. Repeatedly.

The intro to this 1993 classic is all citrus-green-soapy freshness, with lemon, lime, lemon verbena, bergamot and aldehydes in the mix. A floral bouquet follows and freesia, in particular, keeps the freshness coming. Soft touches of vetiver, oakmoss and cedar feature in the woody drydown.

This creation is as light as an Amalfi breeze, but no problemo pressing repeat.

Citrus Fragrances - Rochas Eau de Rochas Homme EDT

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2010 and billed as a modern interpretation of the classic original, Essenza isn’t a radical reworking, but rather a case of different emphases.

Neroli and grapefruit are more pronounced in the opening, and the aromatic aspect has been toned down slightly. This version feels fuller than the original while losing none of its uplifting freshness.

It’s seriously good stuff. Many of its fans think it’s even better than its illustrious ancestor. I’m not sure I’d go that far, but it’s certainly one of the classiest citrus fragrances around.

Citrus Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza EDC

DUNHILL ICON EDP (CARLOS BENAÏM)

When Dunhill Icon was launched in 2015, it was very much part of the brand’s sophisticated gentleman approach and admirably so.

The opening features the freshness of neroli, bergamot and petitgrain, all citrus greenery. It develops in complexity with an interplay between the spice of black pepper and cardamom and the clean aromatics of lavender. The drydown features crisp vetiver and a hint of earthy oakmoss.

There’s something stylishly soapy and sparkling about this EDP. It feels modern yet timeless at the same time.

And then there’s the award-winning bottle produced by South African industrial designer Mark Eisen. The metal and glass combo is a nod to the house’s motoring heritage. From the fragrance to the packaging, it gets everything right.

Citrus Fragrances - Dunhill Icon EDP

JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

The John Varvatos Pure range can always be relied upon to deliver a quality citrus hit, but this 2017 release from the American designer brand must be my favourite. Inspired by the lush hills of Xalapa, Mexico, with its coffee and citrus groves, it gets the balance between sweet and sour just right.

The opening belongs to a medley of citrus notes: mandarin orange, lemon and bergamot. Clementine stands out with its sweet juiciness. Notes of thyme and marjoram give it a subtle herbal aspect. The absolutely green petitgrain is partnered with zingy ginger for fabulously fresh spiciness. The drydown maintains the clean vibe with a combo of musk and wood notes.

I love the bottle too, with its holiday vibe.

Citrus Fragrances - John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP: A Twist Of Spice

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP

There seems to be a consensus among many people that Frédéric Malle fragrances this decade aren’t worth the effort and money. Au contraire! I hate the name of the 2023 release, Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP. Sorry. But I love the scent. (FYI: The Suzy Le Helley creation, Acne Studios x Frédéric Malle, launched in 2024, is also worth checking out.)

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP

FM regular Jean-Claude Ellena – Angéliques Sous La Pluie (2000), Cologne Bigarade (2001), Bigarade Concentrée (2002), L’Eau d’Hiver (2003) and Rose & Cuir (2019) – brings a twist to his love of powdery florals (iris) in Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait.

As in a twist of warm spice, especially cloves and capsicum, without weighing it down. In the background, the fruitiness of peach and plum adds to the appeal, while the earthiness of vetiver mingles with creamy vanilla in the drydown. In typical JCE style, Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP is a composition that fuses lightness, sensuality and distinctiveness.

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP

Here, it’s captured in a new find of mine, The Reef Hotel, in the Johannesburg CBD. What was once an office block is now a 120-room hotel in Marshalltown, the part of the CBD where security and the potential for rejuvenation is strongest.

The Reef Hotel Looking Up

The pioneering spirit that built Johannesburg is alive and well, both in ethos and the industrial touches throughout the building.

The Reef Hotel Escape Restaurant & Bar

These details extend to the rooms with their exposed concrete ceilings and photography on the walls behind the beds. Each floor also has its own theme with corresponding information on the city.

My Deluxe Double Room, including the bathroom with a shower and a bath, was super spacious. Just what I needed to counter a recent bout of cabin fever. Standard Double, Standard Twin and Deluxe Twin rooms are available, too.

The Reef Hotel Room

The recently opened Premier Lounge on the third floor brings a touch of airport VIP-lounge glamour and personalised attention.

And then onto the Elevate Rooftop Bar on the 16th floor, with its incredible urban views. If this doesn’t take your breath away, sorry for you, please check your pulse. Open Tuesday to Sunday, it has a vibe, even when not busy.

The Reef Hotel Rooftop View

The Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson Street, Marshalltown, Johannesburg.
Tel: 011 689 1000. reservations@reefhotel.co.za https://www.reefhotel.co.za/

Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP is available in South Africa at Skins stores.

Rand Club Heritage + 3 Fine Fragrance Companions

Rand Club - Sisley Izia La Nuit EDP

In South Africa, we have developed a pattern in which public holidays (Youth Day, Women’s Day) become months. And so it is with Heritage Day on 24 September, on which South Africans celebrate their diverse heritages. While I agree with the spirit of these things, I find the commercialisation and virtue-signalling off-putting. This year, however, my blogpost, coincidentally, coincides with Heritage Month, and the Rand Club theme (and the featured fragrances) fit rather nicely. What a clever boy!

Rand Club Interior

But first, let me tell you about the Rand Club. Originally founded in 1887, a year after the City of Gold’s founding, with the involvement of Cecil John Rhodes, the grand Edwardian building (the third and current clubhouse opened in 1904) has seen it all over the decades.

From the tumult of the Jameson Raid in 1896, for which several members were convicted of high treason for planning a rebellion against President Paul Kruger, to the decline of the inner city and a major fire in between in 2005.

Rand Club Fox Street Side

But that’s in the past and a private member institution like the Rand Club would not be able to survive if it just traded on its illustrious and sometimes controversial history.

If Johannesburg is a city characterised by incessant change, the current demographics of the club couldn’t be more representative: black and white, male and female, straight and openly gay, across a variety of professions, including lawyers, architects, bankers, entrepreneurs and creatives.

Rand Club Entrance

Even with its diversity, maintaining the five-storey Rand Club is a mammoth task, with the City of Johannesburg not helping things with its determination to extract any value that remains via inflated rates.

“Like the country homes of the English aristocracy, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world.”

And while members are central to its heartbeat, like the stately country homes of the English aristocracy that have had to open their doors to the public, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world in the form of events and office space, without losing the mystique and benefits of membership.

Rand Club Bell

ACCESS MOST AREAS

That access extends to accommodation for members and non-members alike. As I was hosting a fragrance event at the club in July, the opportunity to spend two nights in one of the rooms on the third floor was a no-brainer. Could there be a better example of living heritage?

“If you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum.”

Room 4 is elegantly minimalist and spacious. After all the sumptuous detail in the rest of the club, it might feel somewhat plain, but if you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum. Apart from basics such as Wi-Fi and a minibar, standout features include sash windows and monochromatic bathroom with shower.

Rand Club Interior

My only complaint? The cooing of the pigeons outside. This is what it sounds like when pigeons cry (and die). Apologies to Prince. Other accommodation options include the Deluxe Room and Luxury Suite.

The stay fell on a Sunday, when the club, its restaurant and bars, including the longest bar in Africa, are officially closed. I literally had the place to myself, apart from a member using the Buckland Library with its extensive selection of historic books and a congregation using The Ballroom for worshipping purposes.

Rand Club Ball Room

This gave me the ideal chance to take in the club’s ample attractions, including the impressive staircase near the entrance, the dome above it and the operational elevator (dating back to 1904).

Rand Club Interior

In my wanderings around the club (PS: it doesn’t have a gym, but all the traipsing up and down the numerous staircases will have you cardio-fit), I came across The Rhodes Room complete with portraits of the arch-imperialist. As a history graduate, I’m attuned to the indignities and exploitation of colonialism, but don’t believe in erasing the offensive past by removing objects relating to it.

Rand Club The Rhodes Room

So the club provides many pragmatic history lessons with its fascinating mix of portraits, photographs and sculptures, including those of Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki and Cyril Ramaphosa.

OUTSIDE ATTRACTIONS

While there’s plenty to hold the attention inside the club, part of the appeal is the opportunity to experience the CBD.

The club’s location is “relatively safe”, thanks to 24-hour security, the remaining presence of some big businesses in the area, including Standard Bank, its gallery and a small Woolworths food store.

“Within the vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future.”

Within the immediate vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture (Art Deco, Corporate Brutalist, Nouveau Classicist, some restored, others seemingly beyond repair) that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future. Some of these buildings bear the blue plaques of the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation, as does the Rand Club.

Rand Club Heritage Plaque

Rand Club, 33 Loveday Street and Fox Street, Marshalltown, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 870 4260. reception@randclub.co.za. https://www.randclub.co.za/

FRAGRANCE COMPANIONS

Often I “um” and “ah” about the fragrances to bring on my travels, but these three proved to be inspired choices.

SISLEY EAU DE CAMPAGNE EDT (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

This 1976 release is significant for the following reasons:

+ It’s one of the first creations of the great Jean-Claude Ellena, who went on to become the in-house perfumer of Hermès.

+ It’s the debut fragrance from the French brand owned by the d’Ornano family.

* And it’s an absolute green and grassy classic.

Sisley Eau de Campagne EDT

It commences in breezy style with citrus notes (bergamot, lemon) mixed with the aromatic herbaceousness of basil and bitterness of galbanum.

Tomato leaf, with all its vegetal, acidic greenery, is what makes this scent so memorable. It’s supported by the floralcy of geranium, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes.

Sisley Eau de Campagne Perfumed Deodorant

Featuring an oakmoss accord, patchouli, vetiver and musk, the drydown is in classic woody chypre territory and concludes this expression of French living with effortless elegance.

Even better, it’s available in a range of products, including a bath and shower gel and moisturisng lotion. The perfumed deodorant and bath and body oil are featured here.

Sisley Eau de Campagne Bath And Body Oil

XERJOFF NAXOS EDP (SERGIO MOMO)

Private member clubs* may not be the smoking havens they once were, so an olfactory substitute like this 2015 release from the Italian niche brand was the way to go.

Part of the 1861 Collection that celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, its history and heritage, it’s become a mega-hit for the company over the years. Its huge popularity is easy to understand. Many tobacco fragrances can be heavy and over-powering, but this one gets the balance between the fresh and the substantial exactly right.

Rand Club - Xerjoff Naxos EDP

That’s evident from the fresh and aromatic opening featuring notes of lemon, bergamot and lavender to the honeyed tobacco that’s complemented by notes of vanilla and tonka bean, with the unmistakable fuzziness of Cashmeran in the background.

If it sounds sweet, that’s because it is, and if our early summer temperatures continue to rise, no doubt, it will become too much. But for now, Il piacere è tutto mio (“the pleasure is all mine”, or some other mangling of the beautiful Italian language).

*For the record, the Rand Club has a dedicated smoking room for the die-hards).

Rand Club - Xerjoff Naxos EDP

SISLEY IZIA LA NUIT EDP (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE)

The 2021 follow-up to the 2017 OG continues the rose theme, but with a darker side.

Don’t laugh, but it made me feel like a lady of the night whenever I wore it while staying at the Rand Club. No, not that kind of lady of the night. The kind… Oh, never mind, the dramatic setting was clearly channelling something.

Initially green and spicy, with notes of blackcurrant and cardamon at the fore, the rose is fruity without being overly sweet. Notes of magnolia and freesia support the queen of florals.

Rand Club - Sisley Izia La Nuit EDP

There’s nothing new about rose-patchouli combos, but this drydown is particularly alluring with its musky earthiness blended with the creaminess of a most sophisticated vanilla.

While it’s sensual and mysterious, it’s not overdone to the point of caricature. That’s the mark of grown-up elegance.

Talking Fragrance (And Frissons Of Fear And Excitement)

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules

It’s good to talk about it, psychology tells us. But what about talking fragrance, as in talking at an actual event?

For someone who dreads public speaking (evidenced by my nervous state and on-off approach), I’ve surprised myself by going ahead with these things over the last five years.

Talking Fragrance - Fragrance Meets Heritage Flyer

I enjoy talking about fragrances with people, as many of us do, but actually talking to people about fragrances that’s a different matter completely. So why do I commit myself to these events when they can cause so much anxiety?

Because the annoyance with myself for not taking advantage of such an opportunity outweighs any other feelings. And truth be told, because I also get a buzz from them.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

GANICO (FEBRUARY 2020)

The talking fragrance thing all started with a collaboration with my friend Hanley (dearly departed recently) at Ganico, a beautiful organic farm 30 minutes from Johannesburg.

I spoke about trends in perfumery. There were plans to do another one and then a pandemic called Covid-19 came along and changed everything. The Great PC Crash of 2020 also took care of many pics, although I did find this one of the venue.

Ganico

GALERIES DE PARFUMS LAUNCH (JULY 2022)

For the official opening of niche retailer Galeries de Parfums in the rather posh Hyde Park Corner shopping centre, I was invited by the owner to join in the Sip & Smell festivities.

The original theme was pairing fragrances and The Macallan whisky cocktails, using perfumes from brands such as Christian Provenzano, Fragrance du Bois, Amouroud and Boadicea The Victorious.

The Macallan
IMAGE: The Macallan.

The barman went rogue, in one of several changes to theme, so by the time my turn came around on the evening, my well-prepared notes were a right mess, I tell you.

Moral of the story: sometimes you must wing it, but not visibly so.

Galeries de Parfums Sip & Smell

FRAGRANCE MEETS HERITAGE (APRIL 2024)

With a dear friend a member of the Rand Club, the grand Johannesburg institution dating back to 1887 (more about it in an upcoming post), how could I say no to the chance to speak here…

Rand Club Event Grandeur

I thought I was a clever boy by contextualising the talk with the theme Fragrance meets Heritage – “the club and fragrance have more in common than you might think” – and used brands such as Chanel and Hermès to make the point that they use their undeniable heritage in contemporary ways to remain relevant and desirable.

A highlight: meeting people I knew from IG and reconnecting with others I hadn’t seen for ages.

CHANEL BEAUTY STAFF CONFERENCE (SEPTEMBER 2024)

A big one. A really big one. So big, in fact, I once again forgot to take my own pics.

In the run-up to the Christmas shopping period, I was invited to lead a fragrance session at the Chanel Staff Conference. The audience: staff members from various retail outlets across South Africa.

The theme was “we are Chanel with the audacity to believe… with a focus on reigniting what makes the brand so special”. With Coco Chanel as inspiration, I mustered up all the audacity I could muster and shared insights on trends in the market and the luxury fragrance landscape.

Talking Fragrance - Chanel Staff Conference

My brief also included tips for the sales consultants on how to improve service to their customers. I emphasised the fact that very few companies have the diversity and quality of Chanel. Whether from the more widely available releases or the superb Les Exclusifs Collection, there’s almost always a suitable Chanel. Even in an oud-obsessed market like South Africa, customers could be directed to something with a similar profile.

My talking fragrance contribution was divided into two sessions with two separate groups on the same subject, more or less. Tricky to say the least. How do the professionals do it?

Talking Fragrance - Chanel Staff Conference

BREAKING ALL THE FRAGRANCE RULES (JULY 2025)

Back at the Rand Club. What can I say, I love this venue. I feel like I’m doing my bit for the regeneration of Johannesburg through events that involve club members and non-members.

I was feeling rebellious, so the over-arching theme: grand institutions like the Rand Club have a code of conduct for good reason. But what about fragrances? Do old rules still apply?

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Setting

At one stage only nine people had booked for the event. But after much chasing, a diverse Johannesburg crowd of more than 20 pitched up.

There were lots of questions, always a good sign, but my critical voice says:

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

WORK IN PROGRESS / TIPS TO SELF

+ There is such a thing as over-preparation, especially for this self-proclaimed control freak.

+ Even when I’m staying at a hotel, I don’t travel light. Similarly, I find myself bringing way too many fragrances to illustrate various points.

+ Now, seeing that I’m an editor, with a drive to cut down to the essentials, clearly, I need to apply a strict edit to what I’m going to talk about (less angles) and the show-and-tell aspect. That way I might feel less overwhelmed.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

WHAT I’M DOING RIGHT SO FAR

+ No death by PowerPoint.

+ Knowing my subject and doing the necessary research.

+ Not sounding like a press release.

+ It’s not all talking, God forbid. Fortunately, fragrance is very interactive.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrance Rules Guests

AND WHAT’S NEXT?

I’m mulling various options, possibly collaborations with artists, jewellers and fashion designers in my network. Ambitious stuff.

Talking Fragrance - Breaking All The Fragrances Rules Blur

In the meantime, some top tips from Dion Chang, a consummate pro who’s always made it look so deceptively easy:

+ Always start off with something that’s going to grab your audience’s attention. That is, dispense with the “hello, welcome, my name is…etc”.

+ When you’re speaking, let your eye line scan the room or audience. It makes the audience feel you are speaking specifically to each individual. In other words, make eye contact. Engage visually with the audience while you speak. If you find it difficult to look at a sea of faces, choose a few scattered throughout the room and keep returning your eye line to each one.

+ If you’re presenting visually, never do “death by PowerPoint”. Use arresting visuals and video if possible. Never present graphs, pie charts or bullet points. And NEVER EVER read whatever text you have on screen to your audience.

Dion Chang
IMAGE: Dion Chang.

Thanks to those who remembered to take pics, especially Andre and Dion, some of which are used here.

FRUITY-FLORALS: A REASSESSMENT

Fruity-Florals - Dior J'adore EDP

Over the years, I’ve often stated my weariness of fruity-florals, mainly for being too screechy-sweet. Yet I’ve found myself enjoying a number of fruity-florals this year, for example, Chanel Chance Eau Splendide EDP and Puredistance Divanche Extrait.

Fruity-Florals - BDK Pas Ce Soir EDP

So is it time for a reassessment of this genre on my part? Are these fragrances included here exceptions to the self-imposed rule? Have my tastes changed?

So many questions. To which the answer is ultimately, it’s not the genre per se but rather how the fragrances are done. Some of these featured fragrances could also be classified as chypres. But let’s not obsess about labels, shall we?

Fruity-Florals - Kajal Lamar EDP

What are your thoughts on fruity-florals?

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)

 Can’t think of a better place to start than this impeccable beauty.

We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s.

The legendary French perfumer created it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his company in 2 000.

Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes, eventually settling on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.

Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any of the fruity-florals I’ve smelled before.

Fruity-Florals - Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese EDP

TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL EDT (CALICE BECKER)

A fragrance can do many things. But can it make you feel younger? While I have no scientific proof, this 1996 release does exactly that for me. 

That’s partly nostalgic and seeing that the 1990s is having a moment again, courtesy of the Oasis reunion and other Britpop stalwarts back in the charts, I will go with it.

The other part is plain and simple. A citrus burst of mandarin orange and lemon is given a green spin with notes of blackcurrant, mint and jasmine. With lotsa florals, in particular apple tree blossom and honeysuckle, it’s as pretty can be.

Subsequent flankers have stuck to the youthful, reasonably priced formula rather well.

Fruity-Florals - Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl EDT

DIOR J’ADORE EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Oh my, hasn’t she aged well. No, I’m not talking about Charlize Theron, the former face of J’adore and now representing the French brand’s anti-ageing range, Dior Capture, with consummate style. Okay, I still have a crush on the South African-born actor. I digress, as I do…

It’s J’adore, the mega-hit launched in 1999 and surely one of the reasons why its creator, Calice Becker, was honoured with the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award in 2021.

This is complex stuff from the get-go (but not WTF complex) with soft fruity aquatic notes of pear and melon leading the way, and peach bringing powderiness to the already-elegant affair.

Becker’s meticulous floral bouquet – jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang and Damascus rose – is all about balance, but I do get more sunny jasmine than the others.

It’s absolutely timeless and graceful, part of its ongoing success.

Fruity-Florals - Dior J'adore EDP

BVLGARI OMNIA CRYSTALLINE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Loving the design of the updated Omnia bottles from the Italian luxury jewellery brand. More curves, less plastic, but true to the original infinity symbol design.

The good news: the juice, in this case Omnia Crystalline EDT, remains a thing of refined and airy simplicity.

Launched in 2005 and created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas (who’s created many of the brand’s most well-known perfumes), this EDT is the first flanker to the original from 2003.

It begins with an uplifting combo of nashi pear (on the right side of sweetness) and woody bamboo. After that there’s a light treatment of lotus flower, with hints of green-ish tea in the background. The freshness continues through to the drydown featuring balsa wood and white musk.

Pure loveliness, I’m cocooned in its calmness.

Fruity-Florals - Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline EDT

BDK PAS CE SOIR EDP* (VIOLAINE COLLAS)

Never mind postmodernism. I’m all about post-hype-ism. Huh? Just as I tend to watch award-winning films and TV shows long after their initial release dates so I often try mega-hyped perfumes when the over-bearing buzz has hopefully settled down. That way I know I’m judging it on its own merits. Or that’s the theory at least.

So here we go with this BDK:

One of the launch fragrances from the Paris-based brand, it’s a fruity-floral with heaps of character and sophistication, thanks to the deft skills of Violaine Collas.

Moroccan jasmine and orange blossom are blended with quince chutney. The spiciness of ginger lingers in the background, along with the fuzzy muskiness of Cashmeran. Au contraire, certainement ce soir!

Fruity-Florals - BDK Pas Ce Soir EDP

HERMÈS TUTTI TWILLY D’HERMÈS EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’ve loved every release in the Twilly d’Hermès range since its launch in 2017. Unlike its predecessors, the 2023 addition to the collection wasn’t an instant love for me.

But as I’m a patient sort of guy (sort of) and have huge respect for the French luxury goods brand and in-house perfumer Christine Nagel, it took a while to reveal its charms to me.

While tropical and aquatic, the opening litchi note is decidedly unsweet. The freshness changes to the warm spiciness of ginger flower, with clean but sensual musk in the drydown.

Kudos to Nagel for not going the sweet girlie-girl fruity-florals route with this one. Even though aimed at a younger market, Hermès girls (and boys) are stylish creatures too.

The bottle (designed by Florence Manlik and dressed with a silk ribbon scarf designed by Carine Brancowitz) remains one of the cutest in the biz.

Fruity-Florals - Hermes Tutti Twilly d'Hermes EDP

KAJAL LAMAR EDP (MARK BUXTON)

This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.

It makes a statement from the beginning. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.

The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Mark Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.

While undeniably sugary, Lamar is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.

Fruity-Florals - Kajal Lamar EDP

GOLDFIELD & BANKS SUNSET HOUR EDP (HONORINE BLANC)

The Australian niche brand sure does crowd-pleasers (nothing wrong with that), spotlighting botanical ingredients native to the country.

For this 2020 release, master perfumer Honorine Blanc showcases desert peach (much prefer its other name, quandong, and FYI: the tree is part of the sandalwood family). The nuances of its blossoms and fruit are complemented with juicy, tangy notes of raspberry and pear, plus salted caramel.

This latter gourmand aspect doesn’t dominate, fortunately, while sunny jasmine sambac is given spiciness through ginger and pink pepper. If it’s sunset hour, there must be some creaminess, and Australian sandalwood and vanilla oblige with soothing warmth.

It’s a cocktail of contrasting pleasure. Another round please!

Fruity-Florals - Goldfield & Banks Sunset Hour EDP

AMOUROUD APRICOT NECTAR EDP (CLAUDE DIR)

In perfumery, apricot generally means osmanthus. And that floral is present here with its honeyed tones, along with the juiciness of the title note and spice from cypriol, pepper and cardamom.

Yes, there’s a lot going on here in this Claude Dir composition, but in a good way.

The listed oud isn’t obvious (very much the house style), while there are soft floral touches via jasmine and rose. Plum adds to the fruitiness.

There’s plenty of depth in the drydown, thanks to a combo of earthy patchouli and cedar mingling with musks. And the apricot vibe is long lasting.

Because it’s such rich, complex stuff, it’s not an everyday wear. Sometimes I love it, sometimes it’s too much. Either way, I have to admire Claude Dir’s boldness with this composition.

Fruity-Florals - Amouroud Apricot Nectar EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR À FLEUR DE PÊCHE* (ANTOINE MAISONDIEU)

The original niche pioneer founded by Jean Laporte turns all of 50 next year. A stunning achievement.

And while it may not have notched up the classics in recent years that it did so easily a few decades ago, it still has enough standouts to deserve my ongoing respect. For example, this 2023 release (and thanks to fellow blogger Daniel for bringing it to my attention a while back).

Ooh, that peach opening so silky and a tad salty – followed by jasmine at its fruity and in full bloom best – and the earthiness of patchouli.

Considering its inspiration, “the elegant fruit that seduced the gourmets of Louis XIV’s court”, it’s quite a streamlined affair. But one with maximum enjoyment.

Fruity-Florals - L'Aristan Parfumeur A Fleur de Peche EDP

*These fruity-florals available in South Africa at Skins.

Puredistance Divanché: The Luxury Of Time + Nathalie Feisthauer Interview

Puredistance Divanche

The last Puredistance fragrance, Papilio Extrait de Parfum, was released in 2023 and when I thank founder Jan Ewoud Vos for sending me the latest 2025 release, Puredistance Divanché, he tells me to “take my time to enjoy it”.

Puredistance Papilio

Why am I telling you this? Because in a world of fast fragrance – yes, increasingly even in niche, governed by strict, predictable launch schedules and expectations of instant coverage – Puredistance does their own thing. The Netherlands-based company is also unusual in that they appreciate writing about their fragrances.

Puredistance Papilio

I was first exposed to the world of Puredistance and their distinctly non-corporate approach through Papilio, created by one of my favourite perfumers, Nathalie Feisthauer. The Paris-based perfumer is also behind Puredistance Divanché and Puredistance No. 12 (launched in 2021).

Nathalie Feisthauer
IMAGE: Supplied by Nathalie Feisthauer.
FRUITY-FLORAL, BUT SO MUCH MORE

Genre-wise, Puredistance Divanché is a fruity-floral, but that term doesn’t do it justice. The fruity opening may be relatively low key at first, with notes of pear, apple and pineapple, but is increasingly enticing as it develops. The fruitiness continues into the floral bouquet at the heart of the fragrance.

“While characteristically heady, with elements of freshness, it’s not overpowering or overdone.”

Inspired by the beauty of Japanese gardenia, this is primarily a gardenia scent that’s accompanied by champaca India absolute, sambac jasmine India absolute and Tuberose India absolute. While characteristically heady, with contrasting elements of freshness and lushness, it’s not overpowering or overdone.

Puredistance Divanche

Is that magnolia? Actually, it’s the synthetic Hedione HC known for its boosting and magnolia qualities. Another synthetic, Heliotrope, brings powdery creaminess to the mix.

There’s complexity in the drydown via the balsamic warmth of Siam Benzoin Resinoid. Feisthauer heightens the sensuality here using a few ingredients known for their muskiness, including Ambroxan, ambrette and Muscone. The combined effect is warm, slightly floral and sweet, but not animalic.

Puredistance Divanche

CONCLUDING THOUGHTS

While a fruity-floral, Puredistance Divanché avoids the oft-pretty sugariness of that genre adroitly. This pure parfum (28%) is a fine example of naturals and synthetics working together. (FYI: all the house’s releases since their 2007 debut created by Annie Buzantian, Puredistance 1, are in pure parfum concentration.)

Puredistance Divanché feels out of sync with many of the current trends in modern niche. This is a particularly good thing – it doesn’t equate quality and parfum concentration with blaring and brash performance.

Puredistance Divanche

INTERVIEW WITH NATHALIE FEISTHAUER

When I contacted the award-winning perfumer, she was on her way to NYC for a project. On her return, she had these things to say about the creation of Puredistance Divanché:

Nathalie Feisthauer

WHEN DID YOU FIRST GET TO KNOW PUREDISTANCE FOUNDER, JAN EWOUD VOS?

It all started with my visit to Parfumerija Lana perfumery store in Zagreb, Serbia. It was directed by an incredible woman, who launched luxury brands in the Balkan countries. She was the one who oriented me towards Puredistance, because she was sure we would do an interesting collaboration together.

I contacted Jan Ewoud and he invited me to Groningen. I met Jan and his wonderful team at their office, which is inside a church. This special encounter really left a mark on my memory.

Puredistance HQ
IMAGE: Puredistance.
WHY WAS THERE WAS A GAP OF ALMOST A YEAR AND A HALF BETWEEN PAPILIO AND DIVANCHÉ?

That’s how long it takes to launch – Puredistance doesn’t launch a fragrance a year.

“Gardenia is often very caricatured.  I love its wet, petal-like quality, with a slightly tropical ambience.”

IT’S NOT THE FIRST TIME YOU’VE CREATED A GARDENIA SCENT. you’ve also created VAN CLEEF & ARPELS gARDENIA pETALE EDP (2009) AND CZAR Gardenia X Nathalie Feisthauer edp (2023). WHY IS THIS FLORAL SO SPECIAL TO YOU?

Gardenia is often very caricatured. It’s an aggressive, fruity, green, lactonic note. But for me, the facet I love about gardenia is the wet, petal-like quality, with gardenia in the air and a slightly tropical ambience.

DID YOU USE REAL GARDENIA IN ITS CREATION?

Gardenia essential oil does not exist. However, we have added other wonderful oils in the gardenia spirit, such as a rare champaca absolute, tuberose absolute and jasmine absolute.

Gardenia
IMAGE: Random Harvest.
WERE THERE ANY DIFFICULTIES IN THE CREATION OF DIVANCHÉ?

Not because there was a story, love at first sight, an obviousness. The brand’s distributor, Sachi, who lives in Japan, had given me a Japanese gardenia concrete as a starting point. It was very interesting because it was the first time someone had given me their own concrete that they’d made, and that’s where it all began.

WILL YOU BE WORKING ON ANOTHER CREATION FOR THE HOUSE?

Puredistance is a quiet luxury brand based on sincerity and long-term relationships. Yes, I’d love to work with them again, but there’s no rush.

Nathalie Feisthauer and Jan Ewoud Vos
MEET ME IN PARIS: Nathalie Feisthauer and Jan Ewoud Vos celebrate the launch of Puredistance No. 12 in 2021. IMAGE: Puredistance.

Puredistance Divanché is available from the following stores worldwide

Fragrance Flankers: Why They Make Sense

Fragrance Flankers - Chanel Chance Eau Splendide EDP

It’s the bane of many of our lives and I’ve done a fair amount of complaining about it over the years. No, not influencerisation, it’s the never-ending proliferation of fragrance flankers, with their churn-’em-out, diminishing returns and blatant cash-in ethos.

BUT while previously, I saw fragrance flankers as a necessary evil, I’m now starting to see them as sound business sense.

Fragrance Flankers - Hermes Terre d'Hermes EDP Intense

After all the investment that goes into creating a new product line with the pillar fragrance, it’s just plain silly to start something new from scratch every time.

Fragrance flankers are also an opportunity to explore different aspects of a signature note. The Gentleman Givenchy (orris) and YSL Libre (lavender and orange blossom) ranges have done this to great effect. They’re proof that there are very good flankers, some of which are better than the OG.

YSL Libre EDP

Below some thoughts on recent fragrance flankers which illustrate the phenomenon in different ways. PS: it’s not unique to designer fragrances. In fact, niche brands are increasingly getting in on the act. For example, Creed with Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Aqua and Amouage with Love, among others.

Fragrance Flankers - Bvlgari Pour Homme EDP

HERMÈS TERRE D’HERMÈS EDP INTENSE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Since its inception in 2006, the Terre d’Hermès line has maintained the high standard other brands should aspire to. After 2024’s super-refreshing Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, the range takes an unexpected turn with Terre d’Hermès EDP Intense in 2025.

Fragrance Flankers - Hermes Terre d'Hermes EDP Intense

The fresh and spicy opening of bergamot and black pepper is recognisably TDH, but the inclusion of a warm coffee note will perplex some people. Wait, did you say coffee?! Yes, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel could have gone the more obvious route, but here she explores the possibilities of this note without going, yawn, gourmand. Liquorice adds an intriguing dimension of anise.

The drydown is in more familiar mineraline territory with notes of stone, lava and wood completing the deal.

A great example of inspiration – “the inner fire that animates the Earth and man” and execution coming together – and proof that almost 20 years later, TDH remains a fascinating proposition in its various guises.

Fragrance Flankers - Hermes Terre d'Hermes EDP Intense

BVLGARI POUR HOMME EDP (JACQUES CAVALLIER)

The Italian luxury brand (part of the LVMH stable) has been doing some housekeeping in recent years. As a result, various flankers have fallen by the wayside. And its Bvlgari Homme (not to be confused with the Bvlgari Man line) range has been streamlined to just one fragrance. The 2025 release sees the OG from 1996 now in EDP concentration.

Fragrance Flankers - Bvlgari Pour Homme EDP

Did you know Bvlgari pioneered tea fragrances in the early 1990s with its debut, Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Eau de Cologne, created by Jean-Claude Ellena? So no surprise to see it here again in the form of a Darjeeling tea accord and Ceylon tea – a beautifully green and herbal effect.

Ginger enhances the initial freshness, while depth-adding guaiac wood is treated with admirable restraint. The muskiness in the drydown, partially via ambrette seed absolute, has a slight floralcy.

It’s woody, it’s musky, it’s tea-rrific (couldn’t help myself, but you get the point). My inner psychic tells me we should be seeing some additions in the future and with the company’s quality approach, I’m all for it.

Fragrance Flankers - Bvlgari Pour Homme EDP

CHANEL CHANCE EAU SPLENDIDE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

With its fun yet chic vibe, Chanel’s Chance range is clearly aimed at a younger generation of mesdemoiselles who want a spritz of Coco’s daring-do.

The OG, Chanel Chance EDT, goes all the way back to 2003 with its winsome jasmine-patchouli. Since then it has presented variations on the jasmine theme with Chance Eau Fraîche (2007), Chance Eau Tendre (2010) and Chance Eau Vive (2015), with different concentrations in between.

Fragrance Flankers - Chanel Chance Eau Splendide EDP

The 2025 addition, Chance Eau Splendide EDP, sees a departure from the white floral and is a full-on fruity-floral with its sweetness. Normally, this would make me run. Very fast. So it says a lot about the skills of in-house perfumer Olivier Polge that this EDP is très charmant.

There’s raspberry aplenty in the opening. It’s given a light touch with airy violet and rose. The geranium at the centre of it all build on the rose and balances the initial sweetness. What starts out as fresh becomes increasingly warm and sensual as the perfume progresses towards the drydown of musks and cedar.

Fragrance Flankers - Chanel Chance Eau Splendide EDP

I’m certainly not this scent’s target market but as with the Hermès Twilly d’Hermès range, it has broader appeal beyond its intended demographic.

Perfume Pics From The Archives: If I Say So Myself, Some Are Rather Good

Perfume pics - Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No 4 EDP
Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No 4 EDP (Delphine Lebeau)

I often find myself going through my old perfume pics. (No, not to admire my glory days. Perish the thought. Please don’t tell me I’ve peaked many years ago.) I do this to find pics to illustrate various posts.

Perfume pics - Agent Provocateur EDP
Agent Provocateur EDP (Christian Provenzano)

During one of my recent trawls, I thought why not compile a post featuring some of my favourite perfume pics for several reasons.

Perfume pics - Montblanc Legend EDP
Montblanc Legend EDP (Olivier Pescheux)
SELF-INDULGENT, YES, BUT…

To quote Ru Paul: “If you don’t love yourself, how in the hell you gonna love somebody else?”

Perfume pics - Dior Joy EDP Intense
Dior Joy EDP Intense (François Demachy)

So, if you’ll excuse the vanity and nostalgia, but in the spirit of re-using, recycling, repurposing, etc, let’s get to the pics and I’ll not comment on any fragrance specifically. PS: Some of these I like the pic more than the fragrance.

Perfume pics - Comme des Garçons Copper EDP
Comme des Garçons EDP (Alienor Massenet)

Do you have your old pics? What do you think of them now? Has your style changed?

Perfume pics - Alien Man EDT
Alien Man EDT (Jean-Christophe Hérault)
What do these pics tell me about myself then?

Most of these pics were taken either pre-Covid, or when IG deleted my account, or my computer crashed spectacularly.

Perfume pics - Gentleman Givenchy EDP
Gentleman Givenchy EDP (Olivier Cresp & Natalie Lorson)

They’re messier and I was very much in the grip of busy backgrounds to grab the attention, sexy water drops and reflecting mirrors.

Has my style changed?

Sometimes I think I’ve become more conservative and safer but then surprise myself with something quite daring / out there / even WTF-ish.

Perfume pics - Nasomatto Black Afgano Extrait de Parfum
Nasomatto Black Afgano Extrait de Parfum (Alessandro Gualtieri)

While my pics are more cleaned up now (I resisted the urge to do so in this post, some I couldn’t help myself), perfection is not my goal anymore. It’s unattainable and often soulless (AI, anyone?)

Perfume pics - Revlon Moon Drops Cologne
Revlon Moon Drops Cologne

I’d like to think my pics make a statement, even if they’re not technically perfect.

Perfume pics - Britney Spears Fantasy EDT
Britney Spears Fantasy EDT (James Krivda)
What hasn’t changed?

I have eclectic tastes/smells.

Perfume pics - Versace Yellow Diamond EDT
Versace Yellow Diamond EDT

I have a mix of styles, some a bit OTT.

Perfume pics - Penhaligon's Elisabethan Rose EDP
Penhaligon’s Elisabethan Rose EDP

I give cheapies as much respect as others.

Perfume pics- Coty Exclamation Cologne
Coty Exclamation Cologne

I’m still very much an ugly-beautiful aesthetic kind of guy.

Perfume pics - Bvlgari Omnia Golden Citrine EDT
Bvlgari Omnia Golden Citrine EDT (Alberto Morillas)
Perfume pics - Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT
Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (Francis Kurkdjian)
Nasomatto Fantomas Extrait de Parfum
As this post is supposed to be all about the pics, I wasn’t going to comment on any of the perfumes as such. But have to say it: Nasomatto Fantomas Extrait De Parfum from the Dutch-based niche brand and founder/perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri) is officially the only fragrance that has the power to give me acute nausea.

Adidas Vibes: What The Range Tells Us About Perfumery In 2025

Adidas Vibes Spark Up EDP

The middle and upper end of the fragrance market get lots of attention. For obvious reasons. More glamour, more aspiration, more money to be made. But the budget and entry-level segment often tells you more about what’s going on and what most people can really afford. Case in point: Adidas Vibes, the range that was launched in 2024 and has found its way to South Africa in 2025.

Adidas Vibes Get Comfy EDP

Firstly, Adidas takes me back to the 1990s when I proudly wore Gazelles with almost everything. In recent years, in the highly lucrative sportswear category, Adidas has done increasingly well, thank you, with sales of €21.4 billion in 2023, although Nike still rules the sector.

DID YOU KNOW?

After founding the Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory in 1924, the conflict-ridden Dassler brothers went their separate ways after World War II. Rudolf Dassler founded Puma, and Adolph Dassler launched Adidas in 1949. Both companies are based in Herzogenaurach, Germany.

While billboards around Johannesburg have proclaimed the brand’s cool credentials, the fragrance offering lagged behind somewhat. Several have been created by top perfumers, including Maurice Roucel, Oliver Cresp, Harry Fremont, Fabrice Pellegrin, Emilie Coppermann, Frank Voelkl and Olivier Pescheux.

Adidas Natural Vitality EDT
FRUITY AQUATIC: Maurice Roucel created Adidas Natural Vitality EDT, a 2008 release from the sports apparel brand.
CONTEMPORARY FEELS

The fragrances needed a bit of a contemporary lift, which is where Adidas Vibes comes in.

Coty Inc, which has the licence for Adidas fragrances, has clearly been doing its homework on market trends and standards for Adidas Vibes.

Adidas Vibes Get Comfy EDP

As stated on the fragrance boxes (and elsewhere): vegan formulas, cap made with 96% recycled plastic, bottle made with 25% recycled glass and PROVEN TO MAKE YOU FEEL POSITIVE. This is quite standard stuff now, but the claim in caps is where things get really interesting.

Adidas Vibes Spark Up EDP

The Adidas Vibes range taps into neuroscience:

“Any or all of the sciences, such as neurochemistry and experimental psychology, which deal with the structure or function of the nervous system and brain.

“Neuroscience is the study of how the nervous system develops, its structure, and what it does.

“Neuroscientists focus on the brain and its impact on behaviour and cognitive functions. Not only is neuroscience concerned with the normal functioning of the nervous system, but also what happens to the nervous system when people have neurological, psychiatric and neurodevelopmental disorders.

“Neuroscience has traditionally been classed as a subdivision of biology. It is an interdisciplinary science which liaises closely with other disciplines, such as mathematics, linguistics, engineering, computer science, chemistry, philosophy, psychology and medicine.” – Georgetown University Department of Neuroscience

Adidas Vibes Happy Feels EDP

In the realm of fragrance, we all know how smells, scents and fragrances can affect our mood. But neuroscience – and more specifically, neuroscent – makes this a scientific endeavour, with ingredients “proven” to elicit certain responses.

I’ve noticed a few niche brands following the neuroscent route: for example, Edeniste and Vyrao. The latter recently landed in South Africa.

Adidas Vibes Full Recharge EDP

THE ACTUAL SCENTS

Apart from its mood-boosting qualities, the Adidas Vibes line is all about simplicity, affordability, youthfulness and fun.

ADIDAS VIBES HAPPY FEELS EDP (Marypierre Julien): Sunny and sweet grapefruit and jasmine. My favourite.

ADIDAS VIBES CHILL ZONE EDP (Ilias Ermenidis): Relaxing lavender and vanilla.

ADIDAS VIBES SPARK UP EDP (Frank Voelkl): Invigorating sweet orange and black pepper.

ADIDAS VIBES GET COMFY EDP (Gabriela Chelariu): Soothing notes of vanilla and mandarin.

ADIDAS VIBES FULL RECHARGE EDP (Emilie Coppermann): Cedar leaf and clary sage. A modern and fairly sharp fougère.

ADIDAS VIBES ENERGY DRIVE EDP (Fabrice Pellegrin): Stimulating spice of cardamom and pink pepper.

Adidas Vibes Chilll Zone EDP

WHAT’S NEXT?

Perhaps it’s the influence of Energy Drive, but I must try Vyrao asap.

I also need to delve into this neuroscience / neuroscent thing more, especially when Adidas claims: “Vibes EDPs are scientifically proven to elicit positive emotions. What’s more, upon consumers testing, at least 81% agree it makes them feel good, and 85% it boosts their mood.”

Adidas Vibes Spark Up EDP

I wouldn’t be able to quantify my response to the various Adidas Vibes fragrances in the same way. But I can say the scents do have positive outcomes in terms of basic emotional responses, such as upliftment, cosiness and invigoration.

However, these could also be the power of suggestion through the names and the descriptions on the boxes. Perhaps the next addition to the range should be Adidas Vibes Clarity Calls EDP.

Will report back in due course.

Adidas Vibes Happy Feels EDP

PS: I’ve added my own vibe to these pics with my “arty” squiggles / patterns / scribblings in the background.

The Adidas Vibes range is available in South Africa from Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars and Bash.

Der Duft Playground: Gentle On My Mind

Der Duft Playground

The fragrances that appeal most to me often invite me to slow down to appreciate their nuances and qualities. Der Duft Playground is one of those perfumes.

Maybe because of its name, I was expecting this 2025 release from the German brand and its founder, Anselm Skogstad, to be noisier and more obviously attention-grabbing. (Note to self: don’t be so literal, Richard. In this case, “the playground” – and the inspiration of freedom it brings – is in the mind.)

Der Duft Playground

And come to think of it, other releases I’ve tried from the house have also been distinctive but discreet. Not a contradiction. Actually, a compliment.

Der Duft Playground starts out grassy to me. Interesting that the official note from the Der Duft website for this is honeydew melon, for which Google AI Overview tells me “some people also perceive a subtle, grassy undertone”. Bergamot adds to the freshness with its citric tones.

Der Duft Playground

Soft fruity-aquatics mingle with the optimistic white floracly of tiaré and jasmine, while lily-of-the-valley imparts cleanliness. The synthetic Cashmeran (listed here as “cashmere wood”) often proclaims its fuzzy presence, but here it’s more about its subtle contribution to the warmth of a modern amber accord, with musks in support.

Der Duft Playground

Apart from the initial grassiness, none of these afore-mentioned notes jumps out and says, “Look and smell me!” They blend in a way to create a whole that’s all quite gentle and soothing.

‘I’m happy to go with the more low-key version I’m getting in our still-quite-warm autumn’

I suspect Der Duft Playground will ping more in the heat of peak Johannesburg summer. But for now, I’m happy to go with the more low-key version I’m getting in our still-quite-warm autumn.

From the name (“the scent” in German) to the bottle, packaging and website description, The Der Duft aesthetic is minimalist. But that doesn’t mean I’m not getting much enjoyment from this fragrance, especially at bedtime.

Der Duft Playground

Buy Der Duft Playground from the Der Duft website. Read my 2021 Anselm Skogstad interview here.