There seems to be a consensus among many people that Frédéric Malle fragrances this decade aren’t worth the effort and money. Au contraire! I hate the name of the 2023 release, Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP. Sorry. But I love the scent. (FYI: The Suzy Le Helley creation, Acne Studios x Frédéric Malle, launched in 2024, is also worth checking out.)
FM regular Jean-Claude Ellena – Angéliques Sous La Pluie (2000), Cologne Bigarade (2001), Bigarade Concentrée(2002), L’Eau d’Hiver (2003) and Rose & Cuir (2019) – brings a twist to his love of powdery florals (iris) in Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait.
As in a twist of warm spice, especially cloves and capsicum, without weighing it down. In the background, the fruitiness of peach and plum adds to the appeal, while the earthiness of vetiver mingles with creamy vanilla in the drydown. In typical JCE style, Frédéric Malle Heaven Can Wait EDP is a composition that fuses lightness, sensuality and distinctiveness.
Here, it’s captured in a new find of mine, The Reef Hotel, in the Johannesburg CBD. What was once an office block is now a 120-room hotel in Marshalltown, the part of the CBD where security and the potential for rejuvenation is strongest.
The pioneering spirit that built Johannesburg is alive and well, both in ethos and the industrial touches throughout the building.
These details extend to the rooms with their exposed concrete ceilings and photography on the walls behind the beds. Each floor also has its own theme with corresponding information on the city.
My Deluxe Double Room, including the bathroom with a shower and a bath, was super spacious. Just what I needed to counter a recent bout of cabin fever. Standard Double, Standard Twin and Deluxe Twin rooms are available, too.
The recently opened Premier Lounge on the third floor brings a touch of airport VIP-lounge glamour and personalised attention.
And then onto the Elevate Rooftop Bar on the 16th floor, with its incredible urban views. If this doesn’t take your breath away, sorry for you, please check your pulse. Open Tuesday to Sunday, it has a vibe, even when not busy.
In South Africa, we have developed a pattern in which public holidays (Youth Day, Women’s Day) become months. And so it is with Heritage Day on 24 September, on which South Africans celebrate their diverse heritages. While I agree with the spirit of these things, I find the commercialisation and virtue-signalling off-putting. This year, however, my blogpost, coincidentally, coincides with Heritage Month, and the Rand Club theme (and the featured fragrances) fit rather nicely. What a clever boy!
But first, let me tell you about the Rand Club. Originally founded in 1887, a year after the City of Gold’s founding, with the involvement of Cecil John Rhodes, the grand Edwardian building (the third and current clubhouse opened in 1904) has seen it all over the decades.
From the tumult of the Jameson Raid in 1896, for which several members were convicted of high treason for planning a rebellion against President Paul Kruger, to the decline of the inner city and a major fire in between in 2005.
But that’s in the past and a private member institution like the Rand Club would not be able to survive if it just traded on its illustrious and sometimes controversial history.
If Johannesburg is a city characterised by incessant change, the current demographics of the club couldn’t be more representative: black and white, male and female, straight and openly gay, across a variety of professions, including lawyers, architects, bankers, entrepreneurs and creatives.
Even with its diversity, maintaining the five-storey Rand Club is a mammoth task, with the City of Johannesburg not helping things with its determination to extract any value that remains via inflated rates.
“Like the country homes of the English aristocracy, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world.”
And while members are central to its heartbeat, like the stately country homes of the English aristocracy that have had to open their doors to the public, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world in the form of events and office space, without losing the mystique and benefits of membership.
ACCESS MOST AREAS
That access extends to accommodation for members and non-members alike. As I was hosting a fragrance event at the club in July, the opportunity to spend two nights in one of the rooms on the third floor was a no-brainer. Could there be a better example of living heritage?
“If you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum.”
Room 4 is elegantly minimalist and spacious. After all the sumptuous detail in the rest of the club, it might feel somewhat plain, but if you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum. Apart from basics such as Wi-Fi and a minibar, standout features include sash windows and monochromatic bathroom with shower.
My only complaint? The cooing of the pigeons outside. This is what it sounds like when pigeons cry (and die). Apologies to Prince. Other accommodation options include the Deluxe Room and Luxury Suite.
The stay fell on a Sunday, when the club, its restaurant and bars, including the longest bar in Africa, are officially closed. I literally had the place to myself, apart from a member using the Buckland Library with its extensive selection of historic books and a congregation using The Ballroom for worshipping purposes.
This gave me the ideal chance to take in the club’s ample attractions, including the impressive staircase near the entrance, the dome above it and the operational elevator (dating back to 1904).
In my wanderings around the club (PS: it doesn’t have a gym, but all the traipsing up and down the numerous staircases will have you cardio-fit), I came across The Rhodes Room complete with portraits of the arch-imperialist. As a history graduate, I’m attuned to the indignities and exploitation of colonialism, but don’t believe in erasing the offensive past by removing objects relating to it.
So the club provides many pragmatic history lessons with its fascinating mix of portraits, photographs and sculptures, including those of Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki and Cyril Ramaphosa.
OUTSIDE ATTRACTIONS
While there’s plenty to hold the attention inside the club, part of the appeal is the opportunity to experience the CBD.
The club’s location is “relatively safe”, thanks to 24-hour security, the remaining presence of some big businesses in the area, including Standard Bank, its gallery and a small Woolworths food store.
“Within the vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future.”
Within the immediate vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture (Art Deco, Corporate Brutalist, Nouveau Classicist, some restored, others seemingly beyond repair) that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future. Some of these buildings bear the blue plaques of the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation, as does the Rand Club.
Often I “um” and “ah” about the fragrances to bring on my travels, but these three proved to be inspired choices.
SISLEY EAU DE CAMPAGNE EDT (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)
This 1976 release is significant for the following reasons:
+ It’s one of the first creations of the great Jean-Claude Ellena, who went on to become the in-house perfumer of Hermès.
+ It’s the debut fragrance from the French brand owned by the d’Ornano family.
* And it’s an absolute green and grassy classic.
It commences in breezy style with citrus notes (bergamot, lemon) mixed with the aromatic herbaceousness of basil and bitterness of galbanum.
Tomato leaf, with all its vegetal, acidic greenery, is what makes this scent so memorable. It’s supported by the floralcy of geranium, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes.
Featuring an oakmoss accord, patchouli, vetiver and musk, the drydown is in classic woody chypre territory and concludes this expression of French living with effortless elegance.
Even better, it’s available in a range of products, including a bath and shower gel and moisturisng lotion. The perfumed deodorant and bath and body oil are featured here.
XERJOFF NAXOS EDP (SERGIO MOMO)
Private member clubs* may not be the smoking havens they once were, so an olfactory substitute like this 2015 release from the Italian niche brand was the way to go.
Part of the 1861 Collection that celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, its history and heritage, it’s become a mega-hit for the company over the years. Its huge popularity is easy to understand. Many tobacco fragrances can be heavy and over-powering, but this one gets the balance between the fresh and the substantial exactly right.
That’s evident from the fresh and aromatic opening featuring notes of lemon, bergamot and lavender to the honeyed tobacco that’s complemented by notes of vanilla and tonka bean, with the unmistakable fuzziness of Cashmeran in the background.
If it sounds sweet, that’s because it is, and if our early summer temperatures continue to rise, no doubt, it will become too much. But for now, Il piacere è tutto mio (“the pleasure is all mine”, or some other mangling of the beautiful Italian language).
*For the record, the Rand Club has a dedicated smoking room for the die-hards).
SISLEY IZIA LA NUIT EDP (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE)
The 2021 follow-up to the 2017 OG continues the rose theme, but with a darker side.
Don’t laugh, but it made me feel like a lady of the night whenever I wore it while staying at the Rand Club. No, not that kind of lady of the night. The kind… Oh, never mind, the dramatic setting was clearly channelling something.
Initially green and spicy, with notes of blackcurrant and cardamon at the fore, the rose is fruity without being overly sweet. Notes of magnolia and freesia support the queen of florals.
There’s nothing new about rose-patchouli combos, but this drydown is particularly alluring with its musky earthiness blended with the creaminess of a most sophisticated vanilla.
While it’s sensual and mysterious, it’s not overdone to the point of caricature. That’s the mark of grown-up elegance.
It’s good to talk about it, psychology tells us. But what about talking fragrance, as in talking at an actual event?
For someone who dreads public speaking (evidenced by my nervous state and on-off approach), I’ve surprised myself by going ahead with these things over the last five years.
I enjoy talking about fragrances with people, as many of us do, but actually talking to people about fragrances that’s a different matter completely. So why do I commit myself to these events when they can cause so much anxiety?
Because the annoyance with myself for not taking advantage of such an opportunity outweighs any other feelings. And truth be told, because I also get a buzz from them.
GANICO (FEBRUARY 2020)
The talking fragrance thing all started with a collaboration with my friend Hanley (dearly departed recently) at Ganico, a beautiful organic farm 30 minutes from Johannesburg.
I spoke about trends in perfumery. There were plans to do another one and then a pandemic called Covid-19 came along and changed everything. The Great PC Crash of 2020 also took care of many pics, although I did find this one of the venue.
GALERIES DE PARFUMS LAUNCH (JULY 2022)
For the official opening of niche retailer Galeries de Parfums in the rather posh Hyde Park Corner shopping centre, I was invited by the owner to join in the Sip & Smell festivities.
The original theme was pairing fragrances and The Macallan whisky cocktails, using perfumes from brands such as Christian Provenzano, Fragrance du Bois, Amouroud and Boadicea The Victorious.
IMAGE: The Macallan.
The barman went rogue, in one of several changes to theme, so by the time my turn came around on the evening, my well-prepared notes were a right mess, I tell you.
Moral of the story: sometimes you must wing it, but not visibly so.
FRAGRANCE MEETS HERITAGE (APRIL 2024)
With a dear friend a member of the Rand Club, the grand Johannesburg institution dating back to 1887 (more about it in an upcoming post), how could I say no to the chance to speak here…
I thought I was a clever boy by contextualising the talk with the theme Fragrance meets Heritage – “the club and fragrance have more in common than you might think” – and used brands such as Chanel and Hermès to make the point that they use their undeniable heritage in contemporary ways to remain relevant and desirable.
A highlight: meeting people I knew from IG and reconnecting with others I hadn’t seen for ages.
CHANEL BEAUTY STAFF CONFERENCE (SEPTEMBER 2024)
A big one. A really big one. So big, in fact, I once again forgot to take my own pics.
In the run-up to the Christmas shopping period, I was invited to lead a fragrance session at the Chanel Staff Conference. The audience: staff members from various retail outlets across South Africa.
The theme was “we are Chanel with the audacity to believe… with a focus on reigniting what makes the brand so special”. With Coco Chanel as inspiration, I mustered up all the audacity I could muster and shared insights on trends in the market and the luxury fragrance landscape.
My brief also included tips for the sales consultants on how to improve service to their customers. I emphasised the fact that very few companies have the diversity and quality of Chanel. Whether from the more widely available releases or the superb Les Exclusifs Collection, there’s almost always a suitable Chanel. Even in an oud-obsessed market like South Africa, customers could be directed to something with a similar profile.
My talking fragrance contribution was divided into two sessions with two separate groups on the same subject, more or less. Tricky to say the least. How do the professionals do it?
BREAKING ALL THE FRAGRANCE RULES (JULY 2025)
Back at the Rand Club. What can I say, I love this venue. I feel like I’m doing my bit for the regeneration of Johannesburg through events that involve club members and non-members.
I was feeling rebellious, so the over-arching theme: grand institutions like the Rand Club have a code of conduct for good reason. But what about fragrances? Do old rules still apply?
At one stage only nine people had booked for the event. But after much chasing, a diverse Johannesburg crowd of more than 20 pitched up.
There were lots of questions, always a good sign, but my critical voice says:
WORK IN PROGRESS / TIPS TO SELF
+ There is such a thing as over-preparation, especially for this self-proclaimed control freak.
+ Even when I’m staying at a hotel, I don’t travel light. Similarly, I find myself bringing way too many fragrances to illustrate various points.
+ Now, seeing that I’m an editor, with a drive to cut down to the essentials, clearly, I need to apply a strict edit to what I’m going to talk about (less angles) and the show-and-tell aspect. That way I might feel less overwhelmed.
WHAT I’M DOING RIGHT SO FAR
+ No death by PowerPoint.
+ Knowing my subject and doing the necessary research.
+ Not sounding like a press release.
+ It’s not all talking, God forbid. Fortunately, fragrance is very interactive.
AND WHAT’S NEXT?
I’m mulling various options, possibly collaborations with artists, jewellers and fashion designers in my network. Ambitious stuff.
In the meantime, some top tips from Dion Chang, a consummate pro who’s always made it look so deceptively easy:
+ Always start off with something that’s going to grab your audience’s attention. That is, dispense with the “hello, welcome, my name is…etc”.
+ When you’re speaking, let your eye line scan the room or audience. It makes the audience feel you are speaking specifically to each individual. In other words, make eye contact. Engage visually with the audience while you speak. If you find it difficult to look at a sea of faces, choose a few scattered throughout the room and keep returning your eye line to each one.
+ If you’re presenting visually, never do “death by PowerPoint”. Use arresting visuals and video if possible. Never present graphs, pie charts or bullet points. And NEVER EVER read whatever text you have on screen to your audience.
IMAGE: Dion Chang.
Thanks to those who remembered to take pics, especially Andre and Dion, some of which are used here.
Over the years, I’ve often stated my weariness of fruity-florals, mainly for being too screechy-sweet. Yet I’ve found myself enjoying a number of fruity-florals this year, for example, Chanel Chance Eau Splendide EDP and Puredistance Divanche Extrait.
So is it time for a reassessment of this genre on my part? Are these fragrances included here exceptions to the self-imposed rule? Have my tastes changed?
So many questions. To which the answer is ultimately, it’s not the genre per se but rather how the fragrances are done. Some of these featured fragrances could also be classified as chypres. But let’s not obsess about labels, shall we?
What are your thoughts on fruity-florals?
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE LE PARFUM DE THERESE EDP* (EDMOND ROUDNITSKA)
Can’t think of a better place to start than this impeccable beauty.
We can thank Edmond Roudnitska for classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Eau d’Hermès and Femme Rochas. We can also thank him for this innovative composition that was originally created in the 1950s.
The legendary French perfumer created it for the exclusive use of his wife, Thérèse. She gave the formula to Frédéric Malle when he launched his company in 2 000.
Opening with fresh notes of melon and cucumber, it richens with the appearance of prune, rose and jasmine notes, eventually settling on a woody base of patchouli and vetiver.
Complex and intriguing, it’s unlike any of the fruity-florals I’ve smelled before.
TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL EDT (CALICE BECKER)
A fragrance can do many things. But can it make you feel younger? While I have no scientific proof, this 1996 release does exactly that for me.
That’s partly nostalgic and seeing that the 1990s is having a moment again, courtesy of the Oasis reunion and other Britpop stalwarts back in the charts, I will go with it.
The other part is plain and simple. A citrus burst of mandarin orange and lemon is given a green spin with notes of blackcurrant, mint and jasmine. With lotsa florals, in particular apple tree blossom and honeysuckle, it’s as pretty can be.
Subsequent flankers have stuck to the youthful, reasonably priced formula rather well.
DIOR J’ADORE EDP (CALICE BECKER)
Oh my, hasn’t she aged well. No, I’m not talking about Charlize Theron, the former face of J’adore and now representing the French brand’s anti-ageing range, Dior Capture, with consummate style. Okay, I still have a crush on the South African-born actor. I digress, as I do…
It’s J’adore, the mega-hit launched in 1999 and surely one of the reasons why its creator, Calice Becker, was honoured with the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award in 2021.
This is complex stuff from the get-go (but not WTF complex) with soft fruity aquatic notes of pear and melon leading the way, and peach bringing powderiness to the already-elegant affair.
Becker’s meticulous floral bouquet – jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang and Damascus rose – is all about balance, but I do get more sunny jasmine than the others.
It’s absolutely timeless and graceful, part of its ongoing success.
BVLGARI OMNIA CRYSTALLINE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
Loving the design of the updated Omnia bottles from the Italian luxury jewellery brand. More curves, less plastic, but true to the original infinity symbol design.
The good news: the juice, in this case Omnia Crystalline EDT, remains a thing of refined and airy simplicity.
Launched in 2005 and created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas (who’s created many of the brand’s most well-known perfumes), this EDT is the first flanker to the original from 2003.
It begins with an uplifting combo of nashi pear (on the right side of sweetness) and woody bamboo. After that there’s a light treatment of lotus flower, with hints of green-ish tea in the background. The freshness continues through to the drydown featuring balsa wood and white musk.
Pure loveliness, I’m cocooned in its calmness.
BDK PAS CE SOIR EDP* (VIOLAINE COLLAS)
Never mind postmodernism. I’m all about post-hype-ism. Huh? Just as I tend to watch award-winning films and TV shows long after their initial release dates so I often try mega-hyped perfumes when the over-bearing buzz has hopefully settled down. That way I know I’m judging it on its own merits. Or that’s the theory at least.
So here we go with this BDK:
One of the launch fragrances from the Paris-based brand, it’s a fruity-floral with heaps of character and sophistication, thanks to the deft skills of Violaine Collas.
Moroccan jasmine and orange blossom are blended with quince chutney. The spiciness of ginger lingers in the background, along with the fuzzy muskiness of Cashmeran. Au contraire, certainement ce soir!
HERMÈS TUTTI TWILLY D’HERMÈS EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)
I’ve loved every release in the Twilly d’Hermès range since its launch in 2017. Unlike its predecessors, the 2023 addition to the collection wasn’t an instant love for me.
But as I’m a patient sort of guy (sort of) and have huge respect for the French luxury goods brand and in-house perfumer Christine Nagel, it took a while to reveal its charms to me.
While tropical and aquatic, the opening litchi note is decidedly unsweet. The freshness changes to the warm spiciness of ginger flower, with clean but sensual musk in the drydown.
Kudos to Nagel for not going the sweet girlie-girl fruity-florals route with this one. Even though aimed at a younger market, Hermès girls (and boys) are stylish creatures too.
The bottle (designed by Florence Manlik and dressed with a silk ribbon scarf designed by Carine Brancowitz) remains one of the cutest in the biz.
KAJAL LAMAR EDP (MARK BUXTON)
This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.
It makes a statement from the beginning. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.
The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Mark Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.
While undeniably sugary, Lamar is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.
The Australian niche brand sure does crowd-pleasers (nothing wrong with that), spotlighting botanical ingredients native to the country.
For this 2020 release, master perfumer Honorine Blanc showcases desert peach (much prefer its other name, quandong, and FYI: the tree is part of the sandalwood family). The nuances of its blossoms and fruit are complemented with juicy, tangy notes of raspberry and pear, plus salted caramel.
This latter gourmand aspect doesn’t dominate, fortunately, while sunny jasmine sambac is given spiciness through ginger and pink pepper. If it’s sunset hour, there must be some creaminess, and Australian sandalwood and vanilla oblige with soothing warmth.
It’s a cocktail of contrasting pleasure. Another round please!
AMOUROUD APRICOT NECTAR EDP (CLAUDE DIR)
In perfumery, apricot generally means osmanthus. And that floral is present here with its honeyed tones, along with the juiciness of the title note and spice from cypriol, pepper and cardamom.
Yes, there’s a lot going on here in this Claude Dir composition, but in a good way.
The listed oud isn’t obvious (very much the house style), while there are soft floral touches via jasmine and rose. Plum adds to the fruitiness.
There’s plenty of depth in the drydown, thanks to a combo of earthy patchouli and cedar mingling with musks. And the apricot vibe is long lasting.
Because it’s such rich, complex stuff, it’s not an everyday wear. Sometimes I love it, sometimes it’s too much. Either way, I have to admire Claude Dir’s boldness with this composition.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR À FLEUR DE PÊCHE* (ANTOINE MAISONDIEU)
The original niche pioneer founded by Jean Laporte turns all of 50 next year. A stunning achievement.
And while it may not have notched up the classics in recent years that it did so easily a few decades ago, it still has enough standouts to deserve my ongoing respect. For example, this 2023 release (and thanks to fellow blogger Daniel for bringing it to my attention a while back).
Ooh, that peach opening so silky and a tad salty – followed by jasmine at its fruity and in full bloom best – and the earthiness of patchouli.
Considering its inspiration, “the elegant fruit that seduced the gourmets of Louis XIV’s court”, it’s quite a streamlined affair. But one with maximum enjoyment.
*These fruity-florals available in South Africa at Skins.
The last Puredistance fragrance, Papilio Extrait de Parfum, was released in 2023 and when I thank founder Jan Ewoud Vos for sending me the latest 2025 release, Puredistance Divanché, he tells me to “take my time to enjoy it”.
Why am I telling you this? Because in a world of fast fragrance – yes, increasingly even in niche, governed by strict, predictable launch schedules and expectations of instant coverage – Puredistance does their own thing. The Netherlands-based company is also unusual in that they appreciate writing about their fragrances.
I was first exposed to the world of Puredistance and their distinctly non-corporate approach through Papilio, created by one of my favourite perfumers, Nathalie Feisthauer. The Paris-based perfumer is also behind Puredistance Divanché and Puredistance No. 12 (launched in 2021).
IMAGE: Supplied by Nathalie Feisthauer.
FRUITY-FLORAL, BUT SO MUCH MORE
Genre-wise, Puredistance Divanché is a fruity-floral, but that term doesn’t do it justice. The fruity opening may be relatively low key at first, with notes of pear, apple and pineapple, but is increasingly enticing as it develops. The fruitiness continues into the floral bouquet at the heart of the fragrance.
“While characteristically heady, with elements of freshness, it’s not overpowering or overdone.”
Inspired by the beauty of Japanese gardenia, this is primarily a gardenia scent that’s accompanied by champaca India absolute, sambac jasmine India absolute and Tuberose India absolute. While characteristically heady, with contrasting elements of freshness and lushness, it’s not overpowering or overdone.
Is that magnolia? Actually, it’s the synthetic Hedione HC known for its boosting and magnolia qualities. Another synthetic, Heliotrope, brings powdery creaminess to the mix.
There’s complexity in the drydown via the balsamic warmth of Siam Benzoin Resinoid. Feisthauer heightens the sensuality here using a few ingredients known for their muskiness, including Ambroxan, ambrette and Muscone. The combined effect is warm, slightly floral and sweet, but not animalic.
CONCLUDING THOUGHTS
While a fruity-floral, Puredistance Divanché avoids the oft-pretty sugariness of that genre adroitly. This pure parfum (28%) is a fine example of naturals and synthetics working together. (FYI: all the house’s releases since their 2007 debut created by Annie Buzantian, Puredistance 1, are in pure parfum concentration.)
Puredistance Divanché feels out of sync with many of the current trends in modern niche. This is a particularly good thing – it doesn’t equate quality and parfum concentration with blaring and brash performance.
INTERVIEW WITH NATHALIE FEISTHAUER
When I contacted the award-winning perfumer, she was on her way to NYC for a project. On her return, she had these things to say about the creation of Puredistance Divanché:
WHEN DID YOU FIRST GET TO KNOW PUREDISTANCE FOUNDER, JAN EWOUD VOS?
It all started with my visit to Parfumerija Lana perfumery store in Zagreb, Serbia. It was directed by an incredible woman, who launched luxury brands in the Balkan countries. She was the one who oriented me towards Puredistance, because she was sure we would do an interesting collaboration together.
I contacted Jan Ewoud and he invited me to Groningen. I met Jan and his wonderful team at their office, which is inside a church. This special encounter really left a mark on my memory.
IMAGE: Puredistance.
WHY WAS THERE WAS A GAP OF ALMOST A YEAR AND A HALF BETWEEN PAPILIO AND DIVANCHÉ?
That’s how long it takes to launch – Puredistance doesn’t launch a fragrance a year.
“Gardenia is often very caricatured. I love its wet, petal-like quality, with a slightly tropical ambience.”
IT’S NOT THE FIRST TIME YOU’VE CREATED A GARDENIA SCENT. you’ve also created VAN CLEEF & ARPELS gARDENIA pETALE EDP (2009) AND CZAR Gardenia X Nathalie Feisthauer edp (2023). WHY IS THIS FLORAL SO SPECIAL TO YOU?
Gardenia is often very caricatured. It’s an aggressive, fruity, green, lactonic note. But for me, the facet I love about gardenia is the wet, petal-like quality, with gardenia in the air and a slightly tropical ambience.
DID YOU USE REAL GARDENIA IN ITS CREATION?
Gardenia essential oil does not exist. However, we have added other wonderful oils in the gardenia spirit, such as a rare champaca absolute, tuberose absolute and jasmine absolute.
IMAGE: Random Harvest.
WERE THERE ANY DIFFICULTIES IN THE CREATION OF DIVANCHÉ?
Not because there was a story, love at first sight, an obviousness. The brand’s distributor, Sachi, who lives in Japan, had given me a Japanese gardenia concrete as a starting point. It was very interesting because it was the first time someone had given me their own concrete that they’d made, and that’s where it all began.
WILL YOU BE WORKING ON ANOTHER CREATION FOR THE HOUSE?
Puredistance is a quiet luxury brand based on sincerity and long-term relationships. Yes, I’d love to work with them again, but there’s no rush.
MEET ME IN PARIS: Nathalie Feisthauer and Jan Ewoud Vos celebrate the launch of Puredistance No. 12 in 2021. IMAGE: Puredistance.
It’s the bane of many of our lives and I’ve done a fair amount of complaining about it over the years. No, not influencerisation, it’s the never-ending proliferation of fragrance flankers, with their churn-’em-out, diminishing returns and blatant cash-in ethos.
BUT while previously, I saw fragrance flankers as a necessary evil, I’m now starting to see them as sound business sense.
After all the investment that goes into creating a new product line with the pillar fragrance, it’s just plain silly to start something new from scratch every time.
Fragrance flankers are also an opportunity to explore different aspects of a signature note. The Gentleman Givenchy (orris) and YSL Libre (lavender and orange blossom) ranges have done this to great effect. They’re proof that there are very good flankers, some of which are better than the OG.
Below some thoughts on recent fragrance flankers which illustrate the phenomenon in different ways. PS: it’s not unique to designer fragrances. In fact, niche brands are increasingly getting in on the act. For example, Creed with Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Aqua and Amouage with Love, among others.
Since its inception in 2006, the Terre d’Hermès line has maintained the high standard other brands should aspire to. After 2024’s super-refreshing Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, the range takes an unexpected turn with Terre d’Hermès EDP Intense in 2025.
The fresh and spicy opening of bergamot and black pepper is recognisably TDH, but the inclusion of a warm coffee note will perplex some people. Wait, did you say coffee?! Yes, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel could have gone the more obvious route, but here she explores the possibilities of this note without going, yawn, gourmand. Liquorice adds an intriguing dimension of anise.
The drydown is in more familiar mineraline territory with notes of stone, lava and wood completing the deal.
A great example of inspiration – “the inner fire that animates the Earth and man” and execution coming together – and proof that almost 20 years later, TDH remains a fascinating proposition in its various guises.
BVLGARI POUR HOMME EDP (JACQUES CAVALLIER)
The Italian luxury brand (part of the LVMH stable) has been doing some housekeeping in recent years. As a result, various flankers have fallen by the wayside. And its Bvlgari Homme (not to be confused with the Bvlgari Man line) range has been streamlined to just one fragrance. The 2025 release sees the OG from 1996 now in EDP concentration.
Did you know Bvlgari pioneered tea fragrances in the early 1990s with its debut, Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Eau de Cologne, created by Jean-Claude Ellena? So no surprise to see it here again in the form of a Darjeeling tea accord and Ceylon tea – a beautifully green and herbal effect.
Ginger enhances the initial freshness, while depth-adding guaiac wood is treated with admirable restraint. The muskiness in the drydown, partially via ambrette seed absolute, has a slight floralcy.
It’s woody, it’s musky, it’s tea-rrific (couldn’t help myself, but you get the point). My inner psychic tells me we should be seeing some additions in the future and with the company’s quality approach, I’m all for it.
CHANEL CHANCE EAU SPLENDIDE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)
With its fun yet chic vibe, Chanel’s Chance range is clearly aimed at a younger generation of mesdemoiselles who want a spritz of Coco’s daring-do.
The OG, Chanel Chance EDT, goes all the way back to 2003 with its winsome jasmine-patchouli. Since then it has presented variations on the jasmine theme with Chance Eau Fraîche (2007), Chance Eau Tendre (2010) and Chance Eau Vive (2015), with different concentrations in between.
The 2025 addition, Chance Eau Splendide EDP, sees a departure from the white floral and is a full-on fruity-floral with its sweetness. Normally, this would make me run. Very fast. So it says a lot about the skills of in-house perfumer Olivier Polge that this EDP is trèscharmant.
There’s raspberry aplenty in the opening. It’s given a light touch with airy violet and rose. The geranium at the centre of it all build on the rose and balances the initial sweetness. What starts out as fresh becomes increasingly warm and sensual as the perfume progresses towards the drydown of musks and cedar.
I’m certainly not this scent’s target market but as with the Hermès Twilly d’Hermès range, it has broader appeal beyond its intended demographic.
Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No 4 EDP (Delphine Lebeau)
I often find myself going through my old perfume pics. (No, not to admire my glory days. Perish the thought. Please don’t tell me I’ve peaked many years ago.) I do this to find pics to illustrate various posts.
Agent Provocateur EDP (Christian Provenzano)
During one of my recent trawls, I thought why not compile a post featuring some of my favourite perfume pics for several reasons.
Montblanc Legend EDP (Olivier Pescheux)
SELF-INDULGENT, YES, BUT…
To quote Ru Paul: “If you don’t love yourself, how in the hell you gonna love somebody else?”
Dior Joy EDP Intense (François Demachy)
So, if you’ll excuse the vanity and nostalgia, but in the spirit of re-using, recycling, repurposing, etc, let’s get to the pics and I’ll not comment on any fragrance specifically. PS: Some of these I like the pic more than the fragrance.
Comme des Garçons EDP (Alienor Massenet)
Do you have your old pics? What do you think of them now? Has your style changed?
Alien Man EDT (Jean-Christophe Hérault)
What do these pics tell me about myself then?
Most of these pics were taken either pre-Covid, or when IG deleted my account, or my computer crashed spectacularly.
They’re messier and I was very much in the grip of busy backgrounds to grab the attention, sexy water drops and reflecting mirrors.
Has my style changed?
Sometimes I think I’ve become more conservative and safer but then surprise myself with something quite daring / out there / even WTF-ish.
Nasomatto Black Afgano Extrait de Parfum (Alessandro Gualtieri)
While my pics are more cleaned up now (I resisted the urge to do so in this post, some I couldn’t help myself), perfection is not my goal anymore. It’s unattainable and often soulless (AI, anyone?)
Revlon Moon Drops Cologne
I’d like to think my pics make a statement, even if they’re not technically perfect.
Britney Spears Fantasy EDT (James Krivda)
What hasn’t changed?
I have eclectic tastes/smells.
Versace Yellow Diamond EDT
I have a mix of styles, some a bit OTT.
Penhaligon’s Elisabethan Rose EDP
I give cheapies as much respect as others.
Coty Exclamation Cologne
I’m still very much an ugly-beautiful aesthetic kind of guy.
Bvlgari Omnia Golden Citrine EDT (Alberto Morillas)Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (Francis Kurkdjian)As this post is supposed to be all about the pics, I wasn’t going to comment on any of the perfumes as such. But have to say it: Nasomatto Fantomas Extrait De Parfum from the Dutch-based niche brand and founder/perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri) is officially the only fragrance that has the power to give me acute nausea.
The middle and upper end of the fragrance market get lots of attention. For obvious reasons. More glamour, more aspiration, more money to be made. But the budget and entry-level segment often tells you more about what’s going on and what most people can really afford. Case in point: Adidas Vibes, the range that was launched in 2024 and has found its way to South Africa in 2025.
Firstly, Adidas takes me back to the 1990s when I proudly wore Gazelles with almost everything. In recent years, in the highly lucrative sportswear category, Adidas has done increasingly well, thank you, with sales of €21.4 billion in 2023, although Nike still rules the sector.
DID YOU KNOW?
After founding the Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory in 1924, the conflict-ridden Dassler brothers went their separate ways after World War II. Rudolf Dassler founded Puma, and Adolph Dassler launched Adidas in 1949. Both companies are based in Herzogenaurach, Germany.
While billboards around Johannesburg have proclaimed the brand’s cool credentials, the fragrance offering lagged behind somewhat. Several have been created by top perfumers, including Maurice Roucel, Oliver Cresp, Harry Fremont, Fabrice Pellegrin, Emilie Coppermann, Frank Voelkl and Olivier Pescheux.
FRUITY AQUATIC: Maurice Roucel created Adidas Natural Vitality EDT, a 2008 release from the sports apparel brand.
CONTEMPORARY FEELS
The fragrances needed a bit of a contemporary lift, which is where Adidas Vibes comes in.
Coty Inc, which has the licence for Adidas fragrances, has clearly been doing its homework on market trends and standards for Adidas Vibes.
As stated on the fragrance boxes (and elsewhere): vegan formulas, cap made with 96% recycled plastic, bottle made with 25% recycled glass and PROVEN TO MAKE YOU FEEL POSITIVE. This is quite standard stuff now, but the claim in caps is where things get really interesting.
The Adidas Vibes range taps into neuroscience:
“Any or all of the sciences, such as neurochemistry and experimental psychology, which deal with the structure or function of the nervous system and brain.
“Neuroscienceis the study of how the nervous system develops, its structure, and what it does.
“Neuroscientists focus on the brain and its impact on behaviour and cognitive functions. Not only is neuroscience concerned with the normal functioning of the nervous system, but also what happens to the nervous system when people have neurological, psychiatric and neurodevelopmental disorders.
“Neuroscience has traditionally been classed as a subdivision of biology. It is an interdisciplinary science which liaises closely with other disciplines, such as mathematics, linguistics, engineering, computer science, chemistry, philosophy, psychology and medicine.” – Georgetown University Department of Neuroscience
In the realm of fragrance, we all know how smells, scents and fragrances can affect our mood. But neuroscience – and more specifically, neuroscent – makes this a scientific endeavour, with ingredients “proven” to elicit certain responses.
I’ve noticed a few niche brands following the neuroscent route: for example, Edeniste and Vyrao. The latter recently landed in South Africa.
THE ACTUAL SCENTS
Apart from its mood-boosting qualities, the Adidas Vibes line is all about simplicity, affordability, youthfulness and fun.
ADIDAS VIBES HAPPY FEELS EDP (Marypierre Julien): Sunny and sweet grapefruit and jasmine. My favourite.
ADIDAS VIBES CHILL ZONE EDP (Ilias Ermenidis): Relaxing lavender and vanilla.
ADIDAS VIBES SPARK UP EDP (Frank Voelkl): Invigorating sweet orange and black pepper.
ADIDAS VIBES GET COMFY EDP (Gabriela Chelariu): Soothing notes of vanilla and mandarin.
ADIDAS VIBES FULL RECHARGE EDP (Emilie Coppermann): Cedar leaf and clary sage. A modern and fairly sharp fougère.
ADIDAS VIBES ENERGY DRIVE EDP (Fabrice Pellegrin): Stimulating spice of cardamom and pink pepper.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Perhaps it’s the influence of Energy Drive, but I must try Vyrao asap.
I also need to delve into this neuroscience / neuroscent thing more, especially when Adidas claims: “Vibes EDPs are scientifically proven to elicit positive emotions. What’s more, upon consumers testing, at least 81% agree it makes them feel good, and 85% it boosts their mood.”
I wouldn’t be able to quantify my response to the various Adidas Vibes fragrances in the same way. But I can say the scents do have positive outcomes in terms of basic emotional responses, such as upliftment, cosiness and invigoration.
However, these could also be the power of suggestion through the names and the descriptions on the boxes. Perhaps the next addition to the range should be Adidas Vibes Clarity Calls EDP.
Will report back in due course.
PS: I’ve added my own vibe to these pics with my “arty” squiggles / patterns / scribblings in the background.
The fragrances that appeal most to me often invite me to slow down to appreciate their nuances and qualities. Der Duft Playground is one of those perfumes.
Maybe because of its name, I was expecting this 2025 release from the German brand and its founder, Anselm Skogstad, to be noisier and more obviously attention-grabbing. (Note to self: don’t be so literal, Richard. In this case, “the playground” – and the inspiration of freedom it brings – is in the mind.)
And come to think of it, other releases I’ve tried from the house have also been distinctive but discreet. Not a contradiction. Actually, a compliment.
Der Duft Playground starts out grassy to me. Interesting that the official note from the Der Duft website for this is honeydew melon, for which Google AI Overview tells me “some people also perceive a subtle, grassy undertone”. Bergamot adds to the freshness with its citric tones.
Soft fruity-aquatics mingle with the optimistic white floracly of tiaré and jasmine, while lily-of-the-valley imparts cleanliness. The synthetic Cashmeran (listed here as “cashmere wood”) often proclaims its fuzzy presence, but here it’s more about its subtle contribution to the warmth of a modern amber accord, with musks in support.
Apart from the initial grassiness, none of these afore-mentioned notes jumps out and says, “Look and smell me!” They blend in a way to create a whole that’s all quite gentle and soothing.
‘I’m happy to go with the more low-key version I’m getting in our still-quite-warm autumn’
I suspect Der Duft Playground will ping more in the heat of peak Johannesburg summer. But for now, I’m happy to go with the more low-key version I’m getting in our still-quite-warm autumn.
From the name (“the scent” in German) to the bottle, packaging and website description, The Der Duft aesthetic is minimalist. But that doesn’t mean I’m not getting much enjoyment from this fragrance, especially at bedtime.
Buy Der Duft Playground from the Der Duft website. Read my 2021 Anselm Skogstad interview here.
I’m sure many of us have fantasised some time or another about owning our own perfume store. The ambience, the brands we’d stock, how we’d do things differently… Well, Philip Hillege did just that in 2000 with Skins Cosmetics (shortened to Skins in 2024) when he and his business partner at the time, Michiel Poelmans, pioneered niche fragrance and skincare in the Netherlands.
Twenty-five years later, the original store in the “9 Streets” shopping area of Amsterdam’s Runstraat is well on its way to expanding to 16 in the Netherlands, three in Belgium and two in Germany. This major spurt in expansion is thanks to an injection of capital from Vendis Capital.
FIRST IN STORE: The OG Skins in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. IMAGE: Skins NL.
I’m based in Johannesburg, South Africa, where I’ve got to know Skins through its franchise deal with African Sales Company. Starting out with one store in Sandton City shopping mall in 2016, the local Skins tally now stands at six stores, with another four to five to follow in the future, according to Philip Hillege.
I got to see creative director Philip Hillege when he was in Johannesburg last year as part of the local contingent’s Meet the Creators event. But as it was all a bit of a whirlwind, we set aside time at a later stage for a proper interview.
FOUNDERS: Philip Hillege at the Skins Meet The Creators event in Johannesburg in 2024.
Here, Philip Hillege talks about 25th anniversary plans, how the market has changed in the last quarter century, how they select brands for the Skins portfolio and why large investment was necessary for the growth of the business.
AS IF ROLLING OUT MORE STORES THIS YEAR ISN’T ENOUGH, DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING ELSE PLANNED?
In what has become a tradition over the last five years, every year we launch a collaboration with a brand creating our own product, which also carries the Skins name.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
So, in June, we will be launching a collaboration with Juliette Has A Gun. We’ve been involved with this brand from day one. Now, they are a very big brand. The previous perfume collaborations have been with relatively smaller brands. So, yeah, a very ambitious project. It’s a matter of trust and friendship that we do this kind of thing.
COLLABORATION: The Skins and Philip Hillege relationship with Juliette Has A Gun founder Romano Ricci goes back almost 20 years. IMAGE: Say Who.
Also, we’re planning to launch body, home and fragrance products under our own Skins name, since the collaborations with Skins have been so successful and people trust us.
We’ve set up a separate team for that. I’m not sure if we will launch this year because a lot of testing must be done with stability tests, etc. We’re still in a process of developing the perfume.
YOU DON’T WANT TO RUSH INTO SOMETHING LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT OBVIOUSLY WILL CARRY THE SKINS NAME. SO YOU WANT IT TO BE AS GOOD AS IT CAN POSSIBLY BE BEFORE YOU LAUNCH…
Exactly, because we don’t make concessions. We will develop these products together with great perfumers of brands in our network. We will never take some formula off the shelf, so working on the formula and the texture is a big process.
“We will never take some formula off the shelf, so working on the formula and the texture is a big process” – Philip Hillege
GOING BACK TO WHEN YOU LAUNCHED IN NOVEMBER 2000, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE MARKET THEN?
The market was very saturated, and still is, especially in our small country, the Netherlands, with department and drug stores selling the same brands and all about discounts.
IMAGE: Laura Mercier.
We were ambitious and I shall always make a little joke that the word “disruptor” was invented in 2001. We were a disruptor at the time in 2000, and it was our plan to shake up the market with brands which were all new to the Dutch market.
Aesop from Australia was one of the first of the seven brands of our portfolio. Laura Mercier was a few years on the market in the US. We made a list of cool brands with dedicated founders on board, which had a different mission and distribution. For example, Frédéric Malle.
We saw a new movement starting, also on service. In the Netherlands, all shops closed at six o’clock, and I was in my first job after studying at the Dutch company Herome Cosmetics.
When you wanted to go shopping, it would have to be on the weekend, because you worked from nine to six during the week. So we said we will open seven days a week, which was, at that time, rare, and until eight o’clock in the evening.
BUILDING CUSTOMER LOYALTY IS SO IMPORTANT IN THE RETAIL ENVIRONMENT. HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT THAT?
Salespeople working in a cosmetics store are pushed by targets for brands. Every week, there’s a different promotion. If you walked into a perfumery store, you would be pushed to that brand. So I knew that people would never get honest advice. And we always said from day one to all our team members, give personal advice, see what the customer likes.
Give them samples if they want to test it first, no pressure to buy because the buying pressure in our market was always buy now, get this discount or whatever.
“The customer loyalty from honest advice is one of the key factors in our service”
The customer loyalty from honest advice is one of the key factors in our service. Sometimes brands want to send a promotion girl for the weekend from Paris. But we don’t do that because it will send a wrong message to our customers, of pushing only that brand.
The thing we do in our stores are the events with the brand founders. These founders sometimes visit us for a weekend and then they are in the shop. Yeah, that’s fine. Even when we grow bigger and 25 years later, we really want to stay close to our DNA.
BENOIT ET MOI: Me and Ex Nihilo co-founder Benoît Verdier at the brand’s event in the Skins flagship store in Sandton City, Johannesburg.
IN THE 25 YEARS YOU’VE BEEN IN BUSINESS NOW, WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST CHANGE IN THE MARKET?
When we started niche was so small and the brands in our portfolio sometimes had 150 to 200 points of sale globally. Now maybe they have 1 000 points of sale globally, but I would say Chanel has 3 000 in France. So still very small.
The biggest change is the shift in the consumer’s mind. People really want something different from the well-known brands. If I look at youngsters, you have girls and boys of 15 years of age in our shop looking for cool perfumes, like a status symbol similar to sneakers 10 years ago. People are more and more open to brands with a real story. You see that with everything.
If I look at the beer market 25 years ago in our country, it was Heineken and a few other big brands. Now, there’s 80 different small beer brands.
“There’s a picture of the farmer on the cheese. It’s like Frédéric Malle who started with a picture of the perfumer in the year 2000”
Even look at cheese. In the Netherlands, we’re a cheese country. There were always little artisan cheese shops. And in the supermarket, you had the supermarket cheese. But now in our supermarket, there’s a picture of the farmer on the cheese. It’s like Frédéric Malle who started with a picture of the perfumer in the year 2000.
THERE’S BEEN A LOT OF BLURRING BETWEEN NICHE AND DESIGNER BRANDS IN RECENT YEARS. DO YOU THINK “NICHE” STILL HAS MEANING OR IS IT NOW MORE ABOUT “LUXURY”?
The word “niche” is not at this moment the right word anymore.
I always talk now more about artisanal perfumery because there’s so many big groups in the sector. If you go to the Esxence perfume fair in Milan, where I’m a member of the selection committee, there’s 600 applications and 400 places available.
NAME GAME: Philip Hillege thinks the term “niche” is outdated with all the changes in the sector.
TALKING ABOUT SELECTING, HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT CHOOSING BRANDS FOR YOUR SKINS PORTFOLIO?
We have a committee of six people analysing new options from 60 to 70 brands every month. We really try to get down to the founders and if the brand story is good.
”We have a committee of six people analysing new options from 60 to 70 brands every month”
And if the passion of the founder is there, because the counter reaction is that you see so many brands without a soul and with an empty concept. Luckily, there’s every year new founders from whom we do see the real passion. But it’s getting increasingly difficult.
Sometimes, a bigger group can buy the brand. But if the soul of the brand is still there and if they don’t go, suddenly, mass distribution, then we will keep the brand.
HAVE THERE EVER BEEN TIMES WHEN YOU WORRIED ABOUT THE SURVIVAL OF THE BUSINESS?
No, luckily not. Because we’ve always had growth, even there was a big economic crisis in Europe in 2008 and 2009 and we saw many customers losing their jobs. But we also saw new customers in our shop every day.
The hardest thing sometimes is cash-flow management, though. Because when you’re a growing company, the business requires a lot of capital. And the stock of a new brand, you always must prepay first. Our collection of brands is always expanding.
Building a new store, we never choose any cheaper alternatives. It’s almost a one-million-euro investment for one new store.
Now we have a very good structure with very smart financial people. And I have the nicest cash-flow sheets in Excel. But in the early days, it was my little notes and I had to do the financial planning myself without a good CFO. And it could happen sometimes that I could not pay myself a salary for three or four months. Because first is the staff, then the suppliers, then the landlords and tax.
So, of course, there have been moments sometimes when I had to hold my breath.
YOU DON’T HAVE TO MENTION NAMES, BUT THERE MUST BE QUITE A FEW EXAMPLES OF BRANDS THAT YOU THOUGHT WOULD DO WELL IN SKINS BUT DIDN’T SUCCEED IN THE END?
Yeah, of course. Every brand we select and launch, we want to always be in our collection, because our goal is long-term partnerships, like Diptyque, Aesop, Laura Mercier or Creed.
But sometimes you launch a brand, do a press day, activities, all the stuff from your marketing calendar and training, and you see after, say, two years, the customer’s not buying it in the end.
Then it’s very difficult to call the brand owner to say, “Sorry, you know, I like you as a person, we’ve tried everything, but the brand is not selling.” That I would say is the most difficult thing and is a learning along the way.
AND THEN YOU GET EXAMPLES OF BRANDS THAT DO WELL IN SKINS IN THE NETHERLANDS BUT NOT NECESSARILY IN SOUTH AFRICA…
Yes, for example, our Skins Boxes are a huge success both in the Netherlands and South Africa. People love them.
To buy these boxes with all the gift-with-purchase sizes and with a good deal of value, we always see a lot of traction after we launch them, with certain perfumes hitting the charts in the Netherlands and doing nothing in South Africa.
BEST-SELLERS: The Skins Boxes are hugely popular in the Netherlands and South Africa and reveal different preferences in these markets, according to Philip Hillege. IMAGE: Skins NL.
YOU’VE HAD MAJOR INVESTMENT RECENTLY IN THE BUSINESS. AT WHAT STAGE DID IT BECOME NECESSARY TO GO THAT ROUTE?
I started the business with Michiel Poelmans as a 50-50 partnership in terms of shares. After 10 years, he moved to America with a new wife and to start a new life, then I had another investor, a friend whose father invested the first loan into Skins. And along the way, until 2023, I was lucky in my network to have five friends who were also entrepreneurs and had cash to invest.
“I wanted to go to Germany because brands in our portfolio were all saying we have such a hard time finding the right partners there”
I saw so much potential in the market of opening more than one store per year. We needed more cash to go faster. I wanted to open five or six stores a year, and I wanted to go to Germany because many brands in our portfolio were all saying we have such a hard time finding the right partners there.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
As mentioned previously, building one new store takes, like, a million euros, cash, and then it’s dead cash because part stock and part just your interior, it takes a long time to earn it back.
I started thinking, how should we do this? We needed growth money, but retail and banks are a difficult mix, because retail is about bankruptcy in the news in the last few years, with many chains going bankrupt because of the Internet and changing consumer behaviour.
EXPANSION: The new store in Antwerp, Belgium, is part of the growth partnership with Vendis Capital, says Philip Hillege. IMAGE: Skins NL.
The only thing was to find an investor partner, so we worked with a speciality firm who seek investors. We had a good interest of 20 parties, which was a lot, even to the surprise of the advisory company.
We had many, many talks and really had the luxury of choosing the right partner, Vendis Capital, who we’ve worked with now for over a year. In the past we could only open one store per year. Since the entrance of Vendis as partner, our goal is eight to 10 stores per year divided over the Netherlands (the plan is around 20 in this country), Belgium and Germany.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
Vendis also provide us with lots of people. The right people.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN?
You have to imagine that all these 25 years, I was the one standing on the construction floor with the construction company [laughs], realising the show.
Really time consuming. Now we have a team of experienced builders to help with this. Also on finance, software development.
IMAGE: Skins NL.
ARE YOUR PREVIOUS INVESTORS STILL INVOLVED?
In the end, investment companies only want shareholders on board who work in the company, not shareholders with a passive role. They cannot carry too many silent investors. So my friend investors had to exit, too.
Now we have Vendis, Claudia Pouw-Dullaart the CEO, me and the management team as the shareholders. South Africa is a separate entity.
DO YOUR STAFF HAVE SHARES IN THE BUSINESS?
Yes, we have a separate part of the shares for staff, so they can also invest with their own personal savings.
It’s all very strict with tax rules, so we cannot give them any bonuses. It must come from their own savings. It’s a great way to have staff involved beyond obviously getting paid well or that kind of thing.
OPEN FOR BUSINESS: Staff celebrate the opening of the Skins store in Amersfoort, the Netherlands, in February 2025. Philip Hillege says staff have the opportunity to buy company shares too. IMAGE: Skins NL.
YOU SAID AT THE START OF OUR CALL YOU’RE GOING ON A BREAK TOMORROW WITH YOUR FAMILY. WILL YOU SWITCH OFF PROPERLY, OR ARE YOU GOING TO TAKE WORK WITH YOU?
I always carry my laptop, which I don’t mind. It’s my rhythm for the last 25 years. I have a nice holiday when I don’t open my laptop with a thousand emails [laughs]. So I just keep up a little bit. One hour a day maximum.
