Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée Review: It’s All A Bit Of A (Beautiful) Blur

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

Someone at Chanel deserves a raise! I’m not the only one who enjoys wearing a fragrance when it’s bedtime. Preferably something soft and comforting. And now the French luxury company has come up with a scent specifically for this essential nocturnal rejuvenation: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée.

“It’s relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor.”

Coco Mademoiselle made its debut in 2001 and has gone onto become a best-seller. If the original was stimulating, extroverted and big on the patchouli, then Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor. This is Chanel, after all.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

It was created by Olivier Polge, who’s been increasingly making his mark as in-house perfumer since 2015 with releases such as Boy Chanel, Gabrielle and the Les Eaux de Chanel range.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

HOUSE PERFUMER: Olivier Polge is increasingly making his mark at Chanel. Image: Chanel.

WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE?

It opens with a touch of mandarin orange. This note can be invigorating, but here it’s suitably soothing. Jasmine and rose sounds like a heady and intoxicating combination, but in Polge’s skilful hands, this floral accord is subdued yet sensual at the same time. The signature patchouli is still there, but very much in the background. Dollops of clean white musk complete the composition.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is a straightforward scent, but that doesn’t take away from its elegance and suitability as a bedtime companion. It has a hazy, dreamy feel, in which none of the elements feels overly defined.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

While it was conceptualised before our current Covid situation, its launch is perfectly timed. Who couldn’t do with some sleep-enhancing reassurance in 2020 à la Chanel? Judging from all the IG posts I’m already seeing on this release, Chanel has a hit on its hands. Will other brands start releasing night versions of their scents too?

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée, R2 315 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

Best Chanel Fragrances For Every Situation

Best Chanel Fragrances

Chanel has been in the fragrance biz since 1921. What an auspicious debut Chanel No 5 proved to be! Almost a century later, the company has maintained its reputation for elegant and timeless compositions, and there’s no shortage of contenders for a best Chanel fragrances list.

This is a considerable achievement when you consider how many brands have allowed their heritage to be diluted at the expense of quick cash. Instead, Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.

“Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.”

With an impressive mix of classics and new launches, Chanel offers discerning fragrance consumers the ideal selection of options for every situation. I’ve rounded up some of the best in a variety of categories, including classic, casual, work, romantic night out, summer and winter.

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance. If you’re wondering why the same perfumers’ names keep on popping up on this list, that’s because Chanel, in the tradition of the grand maisons of old, relies on the expertise of their in-house perfumer.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CLASSIC
CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.

Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in a number of ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased the compound aldehydes, with its fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.

In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.

Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Launched in 1984, Coco bears all the hallmarks of the decade. It’s big, bold and brash – by Chanel standards. And I mean that as a compliment.

A brief Sicilian mandarin note gives way to the distinctive spiciness of coriander. There’s more spice in the form of cloves. They can sometimes be overly domineering, but here they’re perfectly balanced by notes of Bulgarian rose, Tunisian orange blossom, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang from the Comoros.

As to be expected from an oriental, the drydown is rich and dense. Notes of Indonesian patchouli, benzoin and tonka bean work together to create a thoroughly grown-up fragrance that oozes retro glamour.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CASUAL
CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.

It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau is my casual choice.

The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes in the opening, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.

Best Chanel Fragrances

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL 1957 EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

The latest addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private collection is undoubtedly a Chanel creation. It has a deceptive simplicity about it.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness.

There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance.

It’s a chic skin scent in which the best ingredients have been used to create it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WORK
CHANEL ALLURE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

We all know how increasingly tricky the work fragrance scenario is. Something that will make you stand out, without offending the sensitivities of others. Which is why I can’t think of a better office option than this multi-dimensional 1999 release. It gets the balance between power and subtlety oh so right.

It begins in fresh citrus territory with pronounced notes of mandarin orange and lemon. Peach adds a slightly fruity element. Featuring notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, water lily, magnolia and freesia, the heart is floral a-go-go, without any of the associated sweetness, but more on the fresh side of things. They are complemented by a delicate touch of rose.

After all that fresh, fruity and floral action, Allure takes on an oriental character in the drydown with a big dose of quality vanilla that’s supported by creamy sandalwood.

As with many Chanel fragrances, it’s also available in EDT and parfum versions.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL CRISTALLE EAU VERTE EDT CONCENTREE (JACQUES POLGE)

One of the lesser-known Chanel fragrances, this 2009 flanker to the 1974 original is well worth sniffing out. Inspired by the designer’s love of the outdoors, it works a treat when you’re all cooped up behind your computer screen, thanks to its fresh, floral and green accents.

Featuring notes of bergamot and Amalfi lemon, the opening epitomises sparkling freshness. Neroli continues the theme in the heart of the scent, with its bitter-sweet nuances. A note of magnolia brings a floral aspect – it’s crisp and opulent at the same time – while jasmine infuses it with a delicate sweetness.

Settling with a musky drydown, this EDT doesn’t have the best longevity. So I recommend keeping it in your bag for the occasional, refreshing top-up.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – ROMANTIC NIGHT OUT 
CHANEL CHANCE TENDRE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

Just when I’d given up on many modern fruity florals, along comes the youthful Chanel Chance Tendre to restore my faith in the popular genre. Launched in 2019, it’s the fourth addition to the range that originally made its debut in 2003.

Notes of grapefruit and quince set the citrus-fruity mood. What relief! There’s none of the screechy sweetness that’s prevalent in so many other examples. It’s soft and most appealing. The fragrance really comes into its own when jasmine absolute and rose essence make their presence felt. A sophisticated floralcy to be enjoyed by you and your date.

And then there’s the musk, which brings it all together in a very skilful and romantic way.

It’s not a reinvention of the fruity floral as we know it, but it’s certainly a masterly fine-tuning of it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

As with its predecessor, Gabrielle Chanel EDP, this 2019 release is inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel. The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right – a richer and denser character.

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background. This is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Olivier Polge has not skimped on the ingredients, which include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and an exclusive variety of tuberose. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

The tuberose is the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – SUMMER  
CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

Launched in 1970 and created by Ernest Beaux’s successor, Chanel No 19 refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel, who was born on August 19, 1883. It was also the last Chanel fragrance to be created while the grande dame was still alive (she died in 1971). Historical significance aside, I love this classic for its unusual floral-woody-green character.

It begins with citrus-fresh notes of bergamot and neroli. But they are secondary to the large dose of galbanum, which gives this EDP its outstanding bitter-green profile. Iris pallida softens the initial impact with powderiness, while notes of ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose bring floral intensity to the mix. The woody base notes of oakmoss and vetiver keep it resolutely sharp.

Fifty years after its initial launch, this EDP remains a complex and compelling beauty. It’s probably the least crowd-pleasing Chanel fragrance.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018, with three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. The latest addition to the range, launched in 2019, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

For Paris-Riviera, Olivier Polge took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the gentle juice, in which nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. A special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, is blended with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. The jasmine flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

Get your hands on this limited edition before May 2020.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WINTER  
CHANEL COCO NOIR EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

In a fragrance world where flankers are often a case of ever-diminishing returns, you can rely on Chanel to give you a very good reason to spend your hard-earned cash on another extension to one of their best ranges.

Launched in 2012, Coco Noir takes its inspiration from the fashion legend’s love of black and Venice. It’s a suitably baroque affair with oriental flair.

The intro of bergamot, orange and grapefruit notes is deceptively citrus-fresh, but deliciously sensual. It doesn’t take long for rose to reveal its romantic intentions. And who can say no to such a lush take on the queen of flowers? A geranium leaf note adds to the rosiness. The base belongs to patchouli in all its rich, dark and exotic glory. Tonka bean and sandalwood bring warm creaminess to the composition.

I’ve recommended this one for winter, but it would work equally well for a romantic night out.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EDP INTENSE (OLIVIER POLGE)

When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental made its mark on a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.

Olivier Polge, le fils de Jacques Polge (excuse my basic French), created a worthy successor to Coco Chanel Mademoiselle EDP with Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, which was launched in 2018.

It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original, but then Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been amplified with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent.

My sources tell me that a new version of Coco Mademoiselle is to be launched this year.

Best Chanel Fragrances

*All fragrances available at Edgars, except Chanel 1957, which is only available at the Sandton City (Johannesburg) and V&A Waterfront (Cape Town) stores.

Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel Paris-Riviera

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

HOME STYLE: Chanel at La Pausa with her dog, Gigot, in 1930. © All rights reserved.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

Chanel Paris-Riviera

 

Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1957 EDP Review

Many of the big designer brands, from Dior and Dolce & Gabbana to Bulgari and YSL have launched so-called private collections in recent years. These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances. It’s safe to say that Les Exclusifs de Chanel is one of the best private collections around. Long before they became fashionable, it was launched in 1922 and now numbers 17 fragrances. Many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances are officially for women. However, there’s a fair selection of unisex fragrances to be experienced, too, including the latest addition to the collection, Chanel 1957 EDP.

“These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances.”

Inspiration for Chanel 1957 EDP

There are several auspicious dates in Chanel history and 1957 is one of them. Coco Chanel was recognised as the most influential designer of the 20th century when she was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in Dallas, Texas, in 1957.

HIGH PROFILE: A portrait of Coco Chanel in 1927, taken by Berenice Abbott. Image: Chanel.

America fell in love with Chanel from the start, from her debut as a milliner in 1912 and the launch of Chanel No 5 in 1924. Not to mention all her high-profile coverage in prestigious magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair over the decades.

The number 1957 is also the amalgamation of her birth date (19 August) and a reference to the address of the largest Chanel store in the United States in New York City (15 E 57th St).

ALL AMERICAN: Coco Chanel in her suite at the Hotel Pierre during her first visit to New York City in 1931.

So what does Chanel 1957 smell like?

From the opening, there’s no mistaking that this is a Chanel fragrance. It has a deceptive simplicity about it. After all, this a fragrance about the finer details.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde (common to many Chanel fragrances) notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness. There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. According to Chanel, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge used eight different musks to create it. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance and, according to Polge, will produce different results, depending on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Overall, it’s a chic skin scent in which there is no doubt that the best ingredients have been used to create it.

SUPER EIGHT: Olivier Polge used a variety of white musks to create Chanel 1957. Image: Chanel.

Chanel is very much about casual chic and this EDP is perfect for those occasions. It’s a great choice when you want to take pleasure in  wearing something special, without over-sharing it with everyone in your vicinity.

R3 240 for 75ml and R5 920 for 200ml.

 

 

Powerhouse Fragrances: Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT, Lancôme Trésor EDP, YSL Opium EDP, Chanel Antaeus EDT, YSL Kouros EDT

Powerhouse Fragrances - Chanel Antaeus EDT

Clean and reserved fragrances certainly have a place. But sometimes I just want to reach for one of the classic powerhouse fragrances from previous decades that leave an indelible trail wherever you go. These powerhouse fragrances are probably OI (olfactorily incorrect) in these times of open-plan office sensitivities. So finding the right time and environment to wear them is crucial.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT

This list of mine is just a snapshot of possible powerhouse fragrances. What are your favourite powerhouse fragrances? Do you have the vintages of any of these?

“These powerhouse fragrances are probably OI (olfactorily incorrect) in these times of open-plan office sensitivities.”

ANTONIO PUIG QUOROM EDT (CARLOS BENAIM)

Originally launched in 1981, Quorum packs an old-school power punch with dominant notes of oakmoss, leather, tobacco, artemisia and sandalwood. This bargain fragrance is super-masculine stuff, irresistibly earthy and is as far from generic as you can get. It’s not often you will find quality at this price, so hunt it down now. R245 for 50ml and R360 for 100ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Antonio Puig Quorum EDT

ELIZABETH TAYLOR WHITE DIAMONDS EDT (CARLOS BENAIM)

If you think celebrity fragrances lack staying power in both sense of the phrase, you need to wear Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT. Launched in 1991, it takes me back to a time of big-time glamour (big hair, lots of hairspray and smoke). It’s a white floral and the aldehydes-o-meter is turned up very high. Bold and audacious! R750 for 100ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT

LANCÔME TRÉSOR EDP (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

So your mom might have worn this back in 1990 when it was launched. But please don’t let that “mature” label put you off this sweet floriental that could teach most of today’s fruity-florals a thing or two. It features a large and luscious rose note at is heart. Little wonder it has spawned over 20 flankers and limited editions. R1 350 for 50ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Lancome Tresor EDP

YSL OPIUM EDP

It’s not a coincidence that so many powerhouses were released in the 70s and 80s. Those decades were not a time for shy, reserved fragrances. YSL Opium EDP is one of the perfect examples of this “big is best” is philosophy. Although this spicy oriental may have lost some strength between the 1977 and 2009 versions, the latter is still an elaborate oriental staple for any perfume-lover’s collection. R2 030.00 for 90ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Opium EDP

CHANEL ANTAEUS EDt (JACQUES POLGE)

This is one of the classics of modern perfumery. All perfumers looking to create a new masculine fragrance beyond today’s formulaic releases should study this one. Macho yet sophisticated at the time, it’s one of the best male powerhouses around, even 18 years after its original release. Unashamedly woody and smoky, it’s animalic a-go-go. R1 600 for 100ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Chanel Antaeus EDT

YSL KOUROS EDT (pierre bourdon)

Another big-hitter from the 80s with seductive musky and animalic overtones that’s still going strong almost 40 years later. Featuring 20 listed notes, it’s a complex thing of beauty, with standout notes of coriander, patchouli, aldehydes, honey, musk and leather creating a powerfully seductive effect. R1 330.00 for 100 ml.

Powerhouse Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EDT

 

Les Eaux de Chanel Review: Paris-Biarritz EDT and Paris-Venise EDT

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

I’m normally very immune to hype (me a jaded journalist?), but I do make an exception for Chanel fragrance launches. Partly because the French luxury company is so darn good at hype. But more importantly, because Chanel continues to release fragrances that are worthy of our attention and wallets. I first started hearing the hype about Chanel’s new collection, Les Eaux de Chanel, about five months ago when it was launched internationally. And more recently that hype gathered momentum when it was released in South Africa.

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

To get straight to the point, I had to have it! I was thrilled when I received two of the three fragrances from the range, Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise. I haven’t smelled Paris-Deauville yet, so this review will focus on the other two.

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

Before I go into that specifically, here’s some essential info on this collection created by Olivier Polge. Chanel’s in-house perfumer took his initial inspiration from three destinations that featured prominently in Madamoiselle’s remarkable life: Biarritz, Venise and Deauville.

Les Eaux de Chanel

WORK IN PROGRESS: Chanel in-house perfumer Olivier Polge in the lab. Image courtesy of Chanel.

These are where Chanel launched her first collection in her shop; where she journeyed after the death of her beloved Boy Capel; and the Basque resort town where she opened another shop, respectively.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

STYLE STORE: Chanel in front of her Deauville shop in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

While these locations were the starting point for Polge, none of the fragrances are meant to be about these places per se. Instead, he wanted the EDTs to be all about the idea of travel and the possibilities that accompany it.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Coco Chanel in Venice

SUN GODDESS: Chanel at Villa Maatena, Venice, in 1924. Image courtesy of Chanel.

So what do Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Venise smell like?

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-BIARRITZ EDT

It opens with a superb citrus character (notes of grapefruit and mandarin). This is supported by an aquatic note, apparently – truth be told, I don’t pick that up. It doesn’t really matter, though, as the lily-of-the-valley accord puts any of my quibbles in their place pronto. What follows next is a seductive blend of vetiver and white musk notes. The overall effect is one of fresh crispness that sees me smelling my wrists longingly after applying it there.

R2 070 for 125ml.  

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz EDP

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-VENISE EDT

Featuring a definite oriental vibe, iris features prominently in the fragrance’s top notes, with a hint of neroli. Glorious stuff! Notes of red berry and Grasse geranium add to the immediate appeal. Cedar, amber, vanilla and tonka notes are also present, but in a subtle manner. While this EDT may be classified as a luxurious oriental fragrance, it’s a gentle take on the genre, not a full-on affair. It’s beautiful from start to finish.

R2 070 for 125ml.  

Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise EDP

In conclusion, I highly recommend both of these unisex fragrances. Yes, they are fairly light on my skin, but such objects of fleeting beauty are worth every cent. Now, all I need to do is get a whiff of Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Deauville asap.

I’ve included some more archive pics of Chanel below. Hope they will fascinate you too!

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Biarritz in 1928

DRIVEN: Chanel in Biarritz in 1928. Image courtesy of Chanel.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

FASHION REVOLUTION: Chanel and aunt Adrienne In front of the Chanel boutique, Deauville, in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum Review

 

Bleu de Chanel Parfum

I’ve noticed there’s a growing trend for men’s fragrances to be given the parfum treatment. So it’s no surprise to see Bleu de Chanel Parfum being launched recently. It makes even more sense when you consider that Bleu de Chanel EDT and Bleu de Chanel EDP have been phenomenal successes for the French luxury brand.

Both of these versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. And so it is with Bleu de Chanel EDP, created by in-house perfumer Olivier Polge. It’s not a reinvention of this modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension to it.

Bleu de Chanel - Olivier Polge

A STUDY IN BLUE: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, at work in the laboratory. Image courtesy of Chanel.

SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of the fragrance pulls you in immediately, with addictive fresh notes of artemisia, bergamot, lemon zest and mint. It’s one of those openings you want again and again, so I have found myself doing more re-sprays than usual.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum According to Fragrantica, there’s a pineapple note at the heart of this fragrance. I don’t detect this fruity aspect at all, but I do pick up hints of lavender and geranium.

“It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff!”

However, it’s the base of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia, we are told) that really sets this fragrance apart from its predecessors. It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff! Cedar is also present in the dry-down, which further enhances the woody character of this fragrance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum

The Fragroom verdict? Bleu de Chanel Parfum is supremely smooth and elegant, with the creamy sandalwood sealing the deal. It will be another huge seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Like all of the Bleu de Chanel iterations, it nails versatility, wearability and elegance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum, R1 655 for 50ml and R2 325 for 100ml.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum