INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS Archives - Page 6 of 8

June 8, 2019

Memo Paris: Interview With Creative Director Clara Molloy

STORYTELLER : Clara Molloy is the creative director of Memo Paris. Image: Memo.

Travel has always been a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. And Memo Paris excels at using this trope in its perfumes and story-telling. The Paris-based niche fragrance company was founded by husband and wife team, Clara (creative director) and John Molloy (president) in 2007. Their love for travel is reflected in all of the brand’s collections: Art Land, Cuir Nomades, Escales Extraordinaire, Graines Vagabondes and Les Echappées.

“Memo Paris has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection.”

Memo, named after Clara’s fondness for collecting her travel memories, has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection. It includes standouts such as French Leather EDP, Moroccan Leather EDP, Russian Leather EDP and the recently launched Oriental Leather EDP.

MADE IN PARIS: The exterior of the Memo store at 34 Rue Cambon, 75001, Paris. Image: Memo Paris.

Memo Italian Leather EDP opens with a greenish tomato note, which immediately lets you know this is not the usual leather fragrance. There’s a big dose of creamy vanilla throughout, which is a perfect partner for the buttery leather. Notes of galbanum, tolu balsam and benzoin just add to the sense of luxury.

I have smelled many beautiful fragrances over the years. But it’s the special ones that really make an impression. Memo African Leather EDP belongs in this special category. It opens with a big dose of cardamom and saffron. The leather accord that follows is pronounced and rich and complemented by cumin, patchouli, oud and vetiver notes. It truly captures the smells of an African landscape.

I’ve tried samples of various other Memo fragrances and what stands out for me is their undeniable quality and ability to transport the wearer with their well-crafted blend of superior ingredients.

I sent Clara some questions and this is what she had to say…

What was missing from the niche fragrance market when you decided to launch Memo?

We were sincerely not thinking about markets and markets shares when we launched our brand. We were thinking about doing the most beautiful brand we could imagine with a very qualitative approach.

“I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations.”

Has your founding inspiration changed at all since your launch in 2007?

Memo is about travelling and landscapes. This has not changed. I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations. Of course, over the years my curiosity has changed. I want to discover even more remote beautiful places and even more amazing perfumes.

GOLD STANDARD: The luxurious interior of the Memo store in Paris. Image: Memo.

In what ways is Memo a luxury fragrance brand?

If luxury means quality, then we are a luxury fragrance brand. I see more myself as an independent artisan.

What is your role as creative director?

My role is to find stories.

Your husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder of Memo. Is it ever tricky working with him in both a business and personal capacity?

Is it very tricky to be married? Not for me. I love sharing my journey. Then the question of working or not working together is secondary. We have very different roles and we respect each other.

PERFUME PARTNER: Clara’s husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder and president of the brand.

What is the company’s best-seller?

It depends on the country. It could be Inlé, Irish leather, French Leather, Marfa…

I’m a big fan of your Irish Leather EDP. How did you and perfumer Aliénor Massenet go about capturing the unique “Irishness” of this scent?

Thank you! My husband is Irish, so we had a lot of pression for this perfume. We always go back to his house in Ireland where his family raises horses. Our inspiration was the wind blowing on the grass there.

All of your fragrances have been created by Aliénor Massenet. Why is she your nose of choice?

Most of them, yes. Because we can talk to each other. It is so difficult to find the right words for perfumes as they are abstract. With Aliénor, it is really easy. She gets what I am saying quickly and vice versa.

FROM ABSTRACTION TO REALITY: Aliénor Massenet has created most of the Memo fragrances.

What’s next for Memo?

A lot of novelties… Winter Palace has just been launched and we are all very excited. The subtleness of this ambery tea is beautiful.

Where do you think the niche sector is heading?

All of our competitors that started when we launched have sold their companies. There are many brands and many more to come. I hope everyone will keep in mind that niche means high standards. Otherwise there is no point in being niche.

Memo Paris fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. https://www.skins.co.za

Image: Memo.

May 18, 2019

Honorine Blanc Interview: The Perfectionist Perfumer

IMAGE: Firmenich.

Self-proclaimed perfectionist Honorine Blanc is one of Firmenich’s master perfumers, alongside luminaries such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson. It’s easy to see why she has earned this accolade when you consider her many creations and her drive.

Before we get to the interview with Honorine Blanc, here are some essential facts about the passionate creator.

HONORINE BLANC 101

Background: Born and raised in the Lebanon. Moved to Paris at the age of 16.

Education: Masters degree in Maths, Physics and Chemistry.

Perfume education: ISIPCA, Paris.

Mentors: Sophia Grosjman and Carlos Benaïm

Works for: Firmenich in New York.

Creations and co-creations include: Lanvin Rumeur 2 Rose EDP (2006), Ralph Lauren Polo Explorer EDT (2007, Beyoncé Heat Rush EDT (2010), Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Gold Couture EDP (2014), YSL Black Opium EDP (2014), Tom Ford Noir Anthracite EDP (2017), Lancôme La Nuit Trésor à la Folie (2018).

Favourite authors: Stefan Zweig and Kahlil Gibran.

Favourite artist: Gerhard Richter.

CREATIVE EXPRESSION: Honorine Blanc loves the works of Gerhard Richter.

What‘s the attraction of perfumery for you?

I enjoy this unique universe for both its technical and psychological facets. In a constant search for creating the right balance between beauty and addiction, I like to play with imperfections and try to master them. I define myself as a perfectionist.

“My curiosity constantly pushes me into the unknown and way out of my comfort zone.”

I love giving and sharing and never stop playing with boundaries and tensions to unveil the most surprising formulas. I’m passionate about being a trailblazer for young perfumers to be their own version of spectacular. I also adore transforming the magical way I feel fragrance into beautiful emotional experiences for those who wear my perfumes.

Where did you study perfumery? What do you remember most from that experience?

I went to ISIPCA Paris and was then taken under the wings of Sophia Grosjman and Carlos Benaïm – two of perfumery’s greatest icons – at IFF, New York. But formal study is just part of the journey. I’m always learning. My curiosity constantly pushes me into the unknown and way out of my comfort zone. What I remember? To create from the heart. Follow my instinct. Be original. I would never betray myself. My creations are part of me.

MENTOR: Honorine Blanc received invaluable guidance from the great Sophia Grojsman.

What fragrances have you created recently? Please tell us about them.

Woman by Calvin Klein EDP. What a wonderful challenge! Today’s woman is so multifaceted. Both simple and complex, empowered and vulnerable. I sought to express that richness in this fragrance. For Éclat de Vert Parfum by Aerin, throughout the creative process, I didn’t follow the trend, but played with iconic natural ingredients to create a very feminine structure.

IMAGE: ro.calvinklein.com.

What trend in modern perfumery are you most excited about?

I prefer not to think in terms of trends, as we’re a world of individuals. But well-being is definitely the new luxury, along with a return to nature.

Do you have a favourite fragrance?

The distinctive fragrance of early morning. The perfume of skin. All of my creations and everything I’ve yet to create.

Have you ever had to deal with the disappointment of a client wanting to dilute your fragrance?

The development process may sometimes bring some frustrations. But we respect each other. I listen with my heart if they ask for changes and I also encourage them to open up to feeling the fragrance my way.

Honorine Blanc - Aerin Éclat de Vert Parfum

IMAGE: aerin.com.

What do you consider to be the highlight of your career?

Being acknowledged by my clients and peers is key. I love to feel there is always another highlight waiting to surprise me. What’s important is that I wake up every day with new ideas and full of creative energy.

Is perfumery still a male-dominated industry?

No, I don’t think so. The creator’s perception of the world – our emotions, feelings and our personal universe – make the difference. Perfumery, in its purest sense, is about being authentic, individual and open to emotion. Man or woman, creative spirits can shine in the perfume industry if they’re brave and humble enough.

What project are you working on next?

All will soon be revealed! I’m very busy and that’s exactly how I like it.

Sources: Fragrantica.com, http://www.fragrance.org

April 13, 2019April 13, 2019

DS & Durga: An Interview With Perfumer David Seth Moltz

When husband and wife, David Seth Moltz (a musician) and Kavi Moltz (an architect) launched DS & Durga in 2007, they did so without a plan in mind. Twelve years later, the perfumer and creative director’s NYC-based company is a well-respected (I would say “very cool”) niche fragrance brand that produces perfume, candle, body and car products.

SELF-TAUGHT: David Seth Moltz didn’t go to perfumery school, but taught himself the tools of the trade.

It’s easy to be a cool brand, but a cool brand with longevity is something else altogether. DS & Durga have achieved this through distinctive (often unusual), high-quality fragrances that take their inspiration from music, art, nature and design.

I got hold of self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz via Instagram and these are his replies to my questions.

What makes DS & Durga stand out in an increasingly saturated niche market?

We are perfumer- and designer-owned. Our scents are a true reflection of our ideas and are not filtered through another perfumer.

You’ve been labelled a “hipster” fragrance brand. What are your thoughts on that?

Not sure what that really means. Doesn’t sound too positive, though.

What was your goal when you originally launched DS & Durga in 2007? Has that changed at all?

At the beginning, we were just flying by the seat of our pants. We were surprised by the response and excited to make something with our own hands. We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools. Ultimately, it’s about spreading joy to as many people as possible.

“We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools.”

You and your wife, Kavi, founded DS & Durga. Why do you have such a strong working relationship?

We respect each other’s spheres of expertise.

DS & Durga - Kavi Moltz and David Seth Moltz

AREAS OF EXPERTISE: Kavi Moltz (creative director) and David Seth Moltz (perfumer) are the husband and wife team behind DS & Durga.

You didn’t study perfumery. Has that been an advantage for you?

I think so. I have my own systems of how aromatic materials work.

Where does your creativity come from?

God.

You’ve recently opened your new NYC store. Why should we visit it?

It has everything we make in one place the way we want you to experience it. You can talk to the founders or our small team and get deep inside what we do and how we do it. Nolita is also a great neighborhood to visit.

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT: The interior of the new DS & Durga store in Nolita, NYC.

One of my favourite DS & Durga fragrances is Debaser. I know the Pixies reference, but I wasn’t expecting all of that delicious fig and coconut for such a rock n roll-referenced fragrance…

Yep, it’s a reference to my youthful understanding of that provocative music on hot summer nights.

On the music theme, you collaborated with Duran Duran last year to celebrate their 40th year in the music biz. What do you remember most from that collaboration?

Working closely with Simon [le Bon, the band’s lead singer] on the fragrances.

Tell us about your latest fragrance, DS & Durga EDP?

The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the retail cost. It is a modern take on an Indian attar with frangipani, gardenia, lotus, sandalwood and vetyver.

“The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the cost.”

Where do you think niche is heading?

Perfume as an art form will only increase. There will always be a market for perfume focused on the artistry of the juice first.

DS & Durga fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics. Tel: 011 883 1350.

March 30, 2019

Kierin NYC: An Interview With The Niche Fragrance Brand’s Co-Founder Mona Maine De Biran

There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years, in general, and NYC-inspired, specifically. Former model-turned-entrepreneur Mona Maine de Biran says her niche brand, Kierin NYC, offers a compelling and uncompromising alternative to what’s currently available on the market.

“I come from a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model).”

After reading a blog-post of mine, Mona got in touch with me and very kindly sent me a discovery kit containing the brand’s four launch EDPs. These are Nitro Noir, Santal Sky, 10am Flirt and Sunday Brunch. I’ve enjoyed wearing all of the Kierin NYC fragrances. There’s something fresh and playful about them. As I wanted to know more about them, I sent Mona some questions on her background, the brand itself, her choice of perfumer and her rejection of gender binary fragrances.

FRAGRANCE ENTREPRENEUR: Mona Maine de Biran is the co-founder and president of Kierin NYC.

How did the idea for Kierin NYC fragrances come about?

For a long time, we’ve been unsatisfied with the rules and compromises that existed in the market. Since no one was doing what we wanted to do, it seemed like a natural evolution to do it ourselves.

What’s your background? Do you come from a fragrance background?

I have a diverse background that includes investments, fashion and beauty (though on the other side of the looking-glass as a former model). My partners are the industry veterans. My husband’s background includes: managing director for Bulgari Parfums, general manager for Puig North America (Prada, Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne), VP marketing for Clarins North America, Chanel and Clinique. The fact that I didn’t grow up in the industry, however, has helped form Kierin NYC’s unique perspective and brand values. As co-founder and President of Kierin NYC, I aim to challenge some of the conventional rules of fragrance and offer consumers a fresh perspective with a modern approach.

There’s been a huge proliferation of niche fragrance brands in the last five years. What makes Kierin NYC different from the multitudes of brands on the market?

Kierin NYC is an uncompromising brand. Current industry trends in unisex aim for compromise, producing scents which I find to be sexless packaged with un-inspirational and minimalistic designs. The “green” industry also fell into that trend in terms of style.

“We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.”

We provide an alternative, crafting bold scents which are genderless but never generic. Our olfactory vibes are uncompromising, high-quality blends and concentrations that are also sustainably sourced, recyclable, cruelty-free, free of unnecessary stabilisers, toxins and skin allergens, and vegan.

We chose to be an accessibly priced niche fragrance. Because quality niche fragrances tend to be expensive, fewer people can enjoy them. Those who do tend to consider them speciality-use fragrance experiences. Kierin NYC tells stories of every-day NYC life and we would like people to incorporate our fragrances into their own everyday life. We make our fragrances accessibly priced so that more people can enjoy them and enjoy them more often.

Kierin NYC is different from other NY-centric brands, some of which were successful for their times in the 1990s and early 2000s, in that Kierin NYC expresses the modern spirit of New York City. Our scents are about people (not places). Art and the city are our muses, not celebrities or elitist stereotypes. We do not produce scents that segregate the city by gender or into neighborhoods. We transcend those boundaries with scents made simply for bold individuals. Kierin NYC is a socially conscious brand committed to inclusivity. We have chosen not to perpetuate biases and, for example, do not produce scents “for her” or “for him”. We aim to inspire people, not define or confine them.

Please tell us more about your take on gender within the perfume industry and why you decided not to participate in this binary?

I don’t participate in that binary because it’s insulting. As a model, I never liked fragrance marketers telling me what it meant to smell like or be a woman. They presumed that I should like pink, crystals and the smell of roses (I don’t). And so, my individualism denied, I was forced to shop for fragrances that I like in men’s aisles. I was always perplexed by the fragrance marketer’s logic. Is a Kandinsky feminine or a Warhol macho? When I go to an art gallery, no one tells me where to go. I think we can all agree, in this modern era, that labeling art as “for her” or “for him” would be insulting to us as individuals. Fragrance, like art, is for all… and should be free of gender-bias labels.

How did you integrate NYC art into your brand?

The white, opaque bottle is like a canvas. The label is purposely positioned “on the edge” of the square bottle as a metaphor for living life to its fullest. The collage art is reminiscent of the lifestyle of NYC and so many street art and graffiti art murals wrapped around the city’s building corners.

Why did you choose Mathieu Nardin as the perfumer for your fragrances

Our choice began with our commitment to producing sustainably sourced scents. As one of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations, Mathieu was a perfect fit for Kierin NYC. As each scent in our collection began as a mood board and story of real New York City life, Mathieu’s literary and visual methods suited our lifestyle approach. His multi-sensorial approach (smell, sight, sound) to olfactive creation helped us to translate this into “fragrance stories”: Sunday Brunch, 10am Flirt, Nitro Noir and Santal Sky.

PERFECT FIT: Mathieu Nardin is part of a new generation of perfumers known for combining traditional techniques and materials with the very latest innovations.

How closely did you work with Mathieu on the creation of the fragrances

My husband and Mathieu worked very closely together to fine-tune the scents and concentrations. It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that. They evoke a vibe, tell a real story of NYC illuminated by fragrance. It took time and required collaboration to perfect each scent.

“It would have been a quick process if all we wanted were fine smelling fragrances. Our scents are more than that.”

What was the starting point for the fragrances? Was a story important to you?

Our fragrances were born with a story, a real NYC story. While these stories are my personal experiences, they are not unique. Many people living here would relate to my stories as their own. New York City is an incredible inspiration because of its people. Diversity is the lifeblood of this city.

What’s next for Kierin NYC?

We are in full launch mode for 2019. The brand just started a few months ago and launched on Amazon Luxury Beauty in November 2018. Kierin NYC still has a lot of work to do to get the good news of our brand out to the public. Our next launch will be in the UK this April. We will be hosting a fun pop-up store experience in London’s über-trendy Boxpark. Of course, there are many more fragrances in line for our future.

March 1, 2019

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn Interview: Working Behind The Givaudan Scenes

ALL IMAGES PROVIDED BY GIVAUDAN

As much as I love smelling perfumes for their beauty, I also want to know what goes on behind the scenes in the complex creation of a fragrance. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn is a key account manager at Swiss fragrance and flavour giant Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.

“Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive.”

She has been with the company for 20 years, so her knowledge of the fragrance industry is vast and impressive. Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn very generously gave me almost two hours of her time to tell me about her work and the company. She also introduced me to the Road Stories Cape Town project. Up-and-coming American perfumer Linda Song spent over a week in Cape Town exploring the region’s unique flora for a collection of 12 wonderful accords. You can read my interview with Linda Song here.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Portrait

FRAGRANCE HUNTER: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn introduced me to perfumer Linda Song’s contribution to Givaudan’s Road Stories project.

What does your role at Givaudan entail?

I am an account manager, responsible for handling South African and Malagasy accounts. Our office is based in Johannesburg and we work with clients across the whole Sub-Saharan African region.

How long have you been with the company?

This will be my 20^th year. Time truly flies!

ADDICTIVE: Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn says: “Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.”

What is the attraction working for Givaudan?

Givaudan is the number one role-player in the global fragrance and flavour industry. I am surrounded by people who are passionate about what they do. Fragrances are like an addiction – once you become interested in the topic, there is no turning back.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn Givaudan Jhb Exterior

UNASSUMING: The exterior of the Givaudan office in Johannesburg.

Is your role very creative?

On the commercial side we are responsible for liaising with our clients and handling projects they may have. I enter these briefs into our global system and then act as intermediary with our evaluators, who in turn task perfumers to create fragrances according to the requirements of the client brief. I then evaluate these submissions to make sure that they answer the client’s requirements (eg, a fine fragrance for a young target market, a hygiene soap range, etc).

Creativity is required in order to ensure that we deliver the best possible fragrances and that we really go out of our way to assist our clients. Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!

“Sometimes we have to rework fragrances a couple of times to achieve the right result. So maybe perseverance is a more important attribute in this position than creativity!”

WELL OILED: The LCMS lab where fragrance oils are prepared by staff based on the formulae they receive on the internal system from Givaudan’s perfumers worldwide.

How does the evaluation process work? And what is your role in that process?

The evaluator is a technically (highly) trained person who handles the client brief, once entered into the system. This individual needs a great nose, loads of olfactory experience and the ability to reach out to perfumers and reconcile their offerings with what the commercial team wants.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Wesley Perumal

GREAT NOSE: Wesley Perumal is a personal care evaluator at Givaudan’s Johannesburg office.

Your job entails a fair amount of travel? Any favourite place so far?

I guess it will remain Paris, as this city has been the non-official capital of the fragrance industry since the 17^th century. However, in this job you have to be at ease in European surroundings, as well as in bustling African cities.

IMAGE: VIATOR.COM

How does Givaudan South Africa contribute to the business, particularly fine fragrances?

Our fine fragrance headquarters are based in Paris, France. The South African office works closely with the Dubai and Paris teams to create fine fragrances for our local market. Something few people outside the industry realise is that the same perfumers who create fragrances for the famous premium and niche brands also work on mass market fragrances for countries like South Africa.

The creation of a perfume iS a complicated process. Please share some details with us on that.

Perfumers have a very long road to travel before becoming fully fledged “noses” or perfumers. Before, the world’s perfumery hub was based in the town of Grasse in France and it was a bit of a family tradition to work in the perfumery business. However, nowawdays, thanks to the Internet, our perfumers come from all over the world and have different backgrounds and interests, ranging from philosophy to architecture. A solid chemistry training is still a prerequisite, combined with an artistic ability. Creating fragrances is a real art.

“Perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met.”

Having said that, perfumers have to be pragmatic, working within the pricing parameters of a client brief and making sure that all requirements are met. Some fragrances can be quite simple, while others can contain up to 100 ingredients. Creating a fragrance is a complex process and in our current context of high raw material prices and/or shortages, also a real challenge. The perfumer has to skilfully blend ingredients in such a way that there is a fresh hook in the fragrance, followed by the heart or signature of the fragrance and the dry down notes (amber, woods, or musks that ensure longevity). All of this has to provide a coherent, rounded effect.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Reception Area

BUSINESS AS USUAL: Givaudan will probably celebrate its 250th year in the biz with low-key celebrations, says Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.

How is Givaudan celebrating its 250^th year in business?

We are used to working incognito and will probably not have huge celebrations. Despite being 250 years old, most people outside the fragrance industry have never heard of us. We basically work behind the scenes, doing our best to assist our clients to make their brands perform well.

Please tell us about the Road Stories Cape Town Project. Why is this so important to Givaudan?

Sub-Saharan Africa is often neglected when it comes to raw ingredients for use in perfumery. Apart from rooibos, tagete (good old kakiebos) and buchu, none of our other fascinating ingredients are known or appreciated. Linda Song’s 12 beautiful accords, inspired by her visit to the Western Cape, are absolutely exquisite. Her collection shows that we have a lot to be proud of.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Mona lavender

RAW INGREDIENTS: Perfumer Linda Song created a Mona lavender fragrance accord after exploring the species that’s unique to South Africa.

I was very impressed by the Linda Song fragrances you shared with me. What can we do to promote an appreciation of our own ingredients?

For some reason, South Africans do not always appreciate local ingredients. They are not perceived to be aspirational. This is a real pity, as overseas they are often sought-after ingredients and feature in high-end products. Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit in some of its fragrances – what a shame that most of us have never heard of this fruit!

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Maninka Fruit

SOUGHT AFTER: Hugo Boss uses the maninka fruit from South Africa in its Boss The Scent fragrance range, according to Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn.

There is a tremendous growth and interest in local design and fashion in this country. Maybe it is time that we also start rediscovering the fascinating botanical world that surrounds us. The precious knowledge of the medicinal and other uses of local plants is becoming extinct. It should concern all of us that such an important part of our heritage is vanishing.

Lydia von Wielligh-Steyn - Golden Pagoda

BOTANICAL HERITAGE: The golden pagoda is another South African plant that Linda Song used as an inspiration for a fragrance accord.

February 8, 2019

Marie Salamagne Interview: Cherishing The Atelier des Ors Creative Adventure

Marie Salamagne might not have “been raised in the world of perfumery”, but this hasn’t stopped the 42-year-old perfumer from attracting attention with her various creations. These range from Alaïa Nude EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoires d’Orangers EDT and Aura Mugler EDT to Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP, Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense and Maison Margiela By the Fireplace EDT, among others.

Since 2015, Marie Salamagne has been the de facto in-house perfumer for Parisian niche fragrance brand Atelier des Ors. She has created 11 unisex EDPs for the company.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Aube Rubis

ATELIER DES ORS AUBE RUBIS EDP: With notes of bergamot, grapefruit, black currant, sage, violet, iris, patchouli, vetiver and praline.

In this Fragroom interview, Marie Salamagne talks about her background, love of perfumery and her work for Atelier des Ors.

Where were you born?

I was born in Paris, France.

Where did you study perfumery?

I studied perfumery at ISIPCA. It is a renowned school of perfumery in Versailles near Paris.

Where are you based now?

I work in Paris for Firmenich.

Did you always want to be a perfumer?

Unlike many of my colleagues, I have not been raised in the world of perfumery. Coming from a family of doctors, after my baccalaureate I started studying medicine. At the time I wanted to be a child psychiatrist, but I quickly realised that it was not for me. I was studying chemistry when I discovered ISIPCA and the work of a perfumer. From that point it was an obvious choice for me.

“I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.”

ATELIER DES ORS BOIS SIKAR EDP: With notes of nutmeg, guaiac wood, styrax, cedar wood, cedar needles, tobacco leaf and vetiver.

What was the attraction of perfumery for you?

I’ve always been sensitive to “smell”, but I knew very little about the craft when I started. I quickly realised that the world of perfumery suited me to a tee. More than a special effort, it takes passion and very hard work to become a perfumer. I followed my intuition and the path of fragrances. Since then scents have always intrigued me. I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.

“I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection.”

How did your involvement with Atelier des Ors come about?

I received the first brief when the brand was under creation in 2012 from our Dubai team. Jean-Philippe Clermont [the founder of Atelier des Ors] was living in the Middle East at that time. His concept of creating this amazing collection, positioned as he said as “haute parfumerie”, was extremely appealing. I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection, sharing the same passion and vision. That’s how it all started.

Marie Salamagne - Jean-Philippe Clermont, Atelier des Ors

PASSIONATE VISION: Jean-Philippe Clermont is the founder of Atelier des Ors.

He gave me the freedom of using the most beautiful ingredients to create his first collection made of five fragrances. These included: Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert and Aube Rubis. We are still working on each of his fragrances together, in co-creation.

Did you create all of the Atelier des Ors fragrances?

Yes, I created the 11 fragrances of the collection.

What do you like about the brand?

The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie. I select materials that bring to life the spiritual and symbolic dimensions of the creative storytelling. As I work to sublimate them in my creations for Atelier des Ors, my craft helps to reconnect fragrance-lovers to the dreams and mysterious universe of luxury fragrances.

“The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie.”

ATELIER DES ORS LARMES DU DESERT EDP: With notes of incense, cypress, patchouli, guaiac wood, cedar, citruses, amber, benzoin and woodsy notes.

What was the general brief for creating the fragrances?

The first idea was to give back to fragrance a sense of mystery and dreams. And also draw inspiration from the crafts to offer olfactory bouquets with distinctive and captivating accords. The project engages with gold, which represents the noble and eternal side of the material and the brand itself.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Cuir Sacré

ATELIER DES ORS CUIR SACRE: With notes of juniper berries, cardamom, cypress, incense, saffron, cedar needles, leather, vetiver and cypriol oil.

How much creative freedom do you have when creating the fragrances?

Passionate and imaginative, Jean Philippe shares his creative ideas with me when we start working on a new fragrance. They are nourished by his incredibly rich experience. His professional life includes various domains of excellence where “savoire-faire” is key. Then I feel free to translate his vision into fragrant poetry. We only keep real “coups de coeur”, as we both like to only pursue rare and unique experiences. I cherish the precious moments of the creative adventure. I enjoy true mutual respect, sharing, listening and a kindred open-minded spirit.

Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont - Atelier des Ors

KINDRED SPIRITS: Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont work very closely together on the various fragrances.

One of my favourite fragrances from the collection is the very sensual Rose Omeyyade. How did you create that EDP?

Rose Omeyyade explores the captivating smell of damask rose, infused with velvet raspberry tones and intense woods, such as the mystical agarwood and gaiac wood.

Tell us more about the new White Collection.

The White Collection was released in 2018. It comprises three fragrances: Nuda Veritas, Crepuscule des Ames and Choeur des Anges. This collection is very special and creative.

White signifies purity, radiance, new beginnings. This new collection pays homage to the white space. It is very relative to art as directly inspired by the work of the artist Gustav Klimt, The Search of Happiness. It’s a monumental artwork completed for the 14^th Vienna Secessionist Exhibition to commemorate the 75^th anniversary of Beethoven’s death. This artwork is organised in three chapters. Each one was the main inspiration of our three compositions.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Gustav Klimt

INSPIRATION: The Atelier des Ors White Collection is inspired by Gustav Klimt’s The Search of Happiness.

Nuda Veritas has been made for Chapter 1. It is a floral creation, representing the lightness and the beginning of a new spiritual quest for the search of happiness. The composition opens with floral notes, delicate jasmine and osmanthus, combined with ambroxan and subtle woods.

Crepuscule des Ames has been made for Chapter 2. It’s a woody aromatic fragrance, evoking the duality within all of us. The duality is expressed by the usage of very contrasted ingredients. These include: bitter and luminous citruses, energising aromatic herbs, animalic notes and an addictive patchouli.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Crépuscule Des Ames

CONTINUITY: Marie Salamagne has also created the fragrances for the Atelier des Ors White Collection.

Choeur des Anges has been made for Chapter 3. It’s a fruity-floral fragrance, a celebration of joy, colours and happiness. It is made of blood orange, carrot seeds, with a floral heart and some radiant fruits. I have used osmanthus and a touch of honey.

Are you working on more Atelier des Ors fragrances?

Of course! We have a lot of new ideas and developments in progress. Jean-Philippe is always sharing new inspirations. This year will be very busy for Atelier des Ors.

January 17, 2019January 22, 2019

Linda Song Cape Town: Launching Givaudan’s Road Stories

I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Image

IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA

Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Broadtoothed Sagebush

UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.

What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?

Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.

“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”

BLOODBELL HEATH

How did you get involved?

I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.

When did you arrive in Cape Town?

April 2017.

How long did you spend in the city?

Nine days.

GOLDEN PAGODA

What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?

Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.

IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING

What did you actually discover?

That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.

ERICA TAXIFOLIA

Who helped you make these discoveries?

I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.

COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.

Do many South Africans know about these plants?

This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]

“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”

The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.

It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.

Will the fragrances be available commercially?

These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.

MONA LAVENDER

What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?

This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.

ALOE ARBORESCENS

What perfume project are you working on now?

I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!

*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan.

December 28, 2018January 3, 2019

Caroline Sabas Interview: “I Work On Anything. I’m Up For Any Challenge!”

I first started chatting to perfumer Caroline Sabas a couple of months ago on Instagram when I inadvertently didn’t credit her contribution to the creation of Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP. Since then I’ve been wanting to interview the 44-year-old who has created a very diverse selection of fragrances over the years. These range from Etat Libre d’Orange You Or Someone Like You EDP, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT and Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP to Rihanna Reb’l Fleur EDP and Commodity Vetiver EDP.

Caroline Sabas grew up in the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse. Her perfumer father had a big influence on her decision to pursue the career she says she was “born into”.

In this interview, I asked Caroline Sabas questions about her work, her ultimate ambition and her favourite ingredient to work with, among others.