Category: INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS

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M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 Review

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).

Images: Supplied.

For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

Artistic Collaborator: Ruh Zadeh. Image: Supplied.

The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.

However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.

5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF
How do you and your husband work together?

I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!

How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?

I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.

PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.

Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?

From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.

Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?

Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…

The company turns 25 next year. How you will celebrate that achievement?

With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website. 

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

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Frank Voelkl Interview: In Praise Of Synthetics

Frank Voelkl

Image: Firmenich.

I recently had the opportunity to interview natural perfumer Douglas Little about his work. There was also a lively discussion on Undina’s Looking Glass about natural, synthetic and “mixed media” perfumes. All of which prompted me to get going on an interview with Frank Voelkl, which I’d been wanting to do for a long time.

Something told me he would be helpful in providing valuable insights on the role of synthetics in modern perfumery. The New York-based senior perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavour company Firmenich took time out of his busy schedule to answer the questions I emailed him.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Firmenich.

Before we get to those enlightening answers, a quick overview of the work of Frank Voelkl. He has earned major respect for creations and co-creations such as:

  • Alfred Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
  • Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
  • Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
  • Zirh Ikon EDT (2008)
  • Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
  • Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP (2012)
  • Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
  • Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
  • Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
Frank Voelkl

Image: Fragrantica.

Of course, Frank Voelkl is most famous for his work for Le Labo. He has produced the decade-defining Santal 33 (2011), Iris 39 (2006), Ylang 49 and Thé Noir 29 (2015), among others, for the NYC-based niche fragrance company.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Le Labo.

Where did you study perfumery and what was the most important thing you learned there?

I did a bachelor in Chemistry in Germany and then got a degree at ISIPCA in Versailles. I always remember what the legendary Edmond Roudnitska [creator of classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Hermès Eau d’Hermès and Rochas Femme] told me during his class: “Never lose track of where you want to go with your creation and always keep the goal, what you want to achieve in mind.” It’s easy to get “distracted” when you create.

Frank Voelkl

NICHE PARTNERSHIP: Frank Voelkl has created several fragrances for Le Labo.

Would modern perfumery exist without the use of synthetics / molecules?

Absolutely not. The introduction of molecules in perfumery in the late 1800s launched modern perfumery. Just think about Chanel No 5 (1921), which wouldn’t exist without its aldehydes. Dior Eau Sauvage by E. Roudnitska (1966) wouldn’t exist without Hedione. The use of molecules really allowed us to discover new paths in modern perfumery.

Image: Fragrantica.

What role do synthetics play when you’re creating a fragrance?

Molecules have always co-existed in my creations together with natural ingredients. They are equally important and both add beauty to a fragrance.

“If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line.” – Frank Voelkl 

If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line. The use of a natural, which typically is a more complex and faceted ingredient, is similar to the use of a large brush stroke. Which means that molecules often have a more linear character and are more singular in smell. I use them exactly for that reason – to introduce a very particular note into my creation. Molecules also allow us to introduce notes that do not exist in nature and to explore uncharted olfactive territories. They are essential for innovation.

For example, when creating Gucci Bamboo, I used a particular molecule which added a very delicate green note recognisable throughout the fragrance, which I could not have achieved in the same way with a natural ingredient.

Image: Fragrantica.

You’ve created a number of fragrances for NYC-based niche house, Nomenclature, including Adr_rett, Holy_wood and Psy_Cou. What was the attraction of working with the founders, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero?

Karl and Carlos had approached me a while back, inviting me to work on their new brand Nomenclature. Given my enthusiasm for molecules and the fact that Firmenich has a large number of captive molecules, it made a lot of sense to me.

Karl and I actually met a few years earlier working on a project together, and we immediately seemed to understand each other well. Of course, the fact that Karl and I both have our roots in Germany is an added bonus. It has been a great pleasure working with Karl and Carlos since the beginning, and am happy to collaborate with them on their beautiful brand.

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature, which showcases exclusive molecules in perfumery. Image: Nomenclature.

Referring to Nomenclature Psy_Cou, which showcases coumarin. tell us about the beauty of this molecule and its influence on modern perfumery.

I still remember smelling coumarin for the first time in my life when it was presented to me as one of the first raw materials from the ingredient training at ISIPCA. It’s creamy, almondy and, to me, immediately triggered a sensation of comfort.

Frank Voelkl

First used in Fougère Royale by Houbigant, it has since had an important role to play in men’s fougère structures, but has also made its way into many women’s fragrances. It is present in nature as well, in many aromatic essential oils or in hay extract, for example.

Image: WorthPoint.

Which recently created molecule are you particularly excited about and how have you used it?

We have a few recent captive molecules at Firmenich that are very exciting olfactively, a new floral aldehydic one, in particular, that I use for an aquatic transparent, yet powerful women’s fragrance. Sorry, but I can’t tell you more about it than that.

In recent years, there’s been increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients in beauty products, including fragrances. Is this a good thing for perfumery? And ultimately for the environment?

I’m glad you ask this question because I think that there is a really important message that consumers need to know. As much as anything natural is perceived to be good for you and anything synthetic as inferior, the use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.

“The use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.”

If all fragrances were made only of naturals, our world supply would be exhausted quite rapidly. In addition, any ingredient used in fragrances, naturals or molecules, is tested before use and has to pass the same standards.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Ermenegildo Zegna.

What will be the major trendS in perfumery this decade?

Starting a decade with a major pandemic has certainly had a great impact on perfumery trends. Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean. They’re increasingly looking for fragrances that make them feel good and like to know the source of the ingredients used in fragrances. Sustainability and social impact are also important factors influencing consumers in their choices. Olfactive trends will align with these criteria.

Le Labo and Nomenclature fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Douglas Little Interview: “I’m Not Worried This Candle Will Over-Shadow My Other Achievements”

Douglas Little

Douglas Little achieved a level of infamy Oscar Wilde would have approved of in January 2020. The “This Smells Like My Vagina” candle he created for Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle portal, Goop, got mega media coverage ranging from indignant outrage to ecstatic approval – and sold out along the way (it’s now back in stock here). Such notoriety shouldn’t come as a surprise for a perfumer who named his natural fragrances company Heretic, which he launched in 2016.

Douglas Little

Of course, there’s more to Douglas Little than being known as “Gwyneth Paltrow’s perfumer”. After studying at Syndicat National des Fabricants de Produits Aromatiques in Grasse, he founded D. L. & Co.: Modern Alchemists and Purveyors of Curious Goods. It focused on perfumed candles, jewellery and lifestyle products. He later went on to create installations for luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Barney’s New York and Bergdorf Goodman. The Californian has also worked with celebrities such as Dita Von Teese, Lady Gaga and Bette Midler.

Douglas Little

When I was contacted by Douglas Little’s PR to interview him, his latest collaboration with Gwyneth Paltrow, the “This Smells Like My Orgasm” candle, hadn’t been launched yet. So this interview predates the controversy this new product will undoubtedly create.

I’d like to state that while I haven’t smelled any of the products featured in this blog-post, I get the strong impression that Douglas Little is a highly creative perfumer with a knack for harnessing the power of sensuality, provocative marketing and humour.

Douglas Little

So let’s get that question out of the way first. How did the “Smells Like My Vagina” candle get its name?

When I develop fragrances with Gwyneth Paltrow we start with several different essential oils. I also love to show her things that are more radical and experimental.

I was sharing an ingredient with her and she said, “This smells like my vagina”, and of course we laughed hysterically and it became a joke. Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.

“Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.”

When I first brought the candle to Gwyneth it was intended as a limited release for Goop Summit and it sold out within about 45 minutes. That’s how the vagina candle story got started, in this very humble and innocent way. We certainly didn’t know what the response would be and it’s been exciting to see how people have fallen in love with it.

Douglas Little

STAR POWER: Douglas Little with Gwyneth Paltrow.

Are you worried this candle will overshadow your other achievements?

Not in the least. “This Smells Like My Vagina” is an interesting product, because it’s one that provokes curiosity. Any stigma that was wrapped around anything relating to the vagina is being felt and this candle encourages healthy conversations and humour.

When did you start working with Goop and are there future projects in the works?

I started working with Goop in 2017. I was hired by Gwyneth to be the nose for her four fragrance editions, Number 1, 2, 3 and 4. We have two really exciting releases coming out this year.

Douglas Little

How has the coronavirus affected your work?

It’s been devastating for everyone. It was hard because we had to restructure our team, but we are trying to look at the glass half full. The coronavirus has forced us to look at the important aspects of the business and what makes us unique. We are a fragrance company that creates fragrance made from naturally derived materials.

We’re radically transparent about what we do and are excited to share the healing and functional elements of how fragrance can enhance people’s lives. That’s been a really important conversation during this time.

Douglas Little

How do you think the coronavirus is affecting our attitude towards fragrance?

People are paying much more attention to the effects of fragrance and the way it can influence your state of mind. Many of us have gone through various stages of isolation/depression, from being sad to angry to frustrated. These emotions can be altered with fragrance.

Being at home and self-isolated, you miss going out and having a walk on the beach, in the park or in the forest. A candle or a perfume can help shift your point of view for a minute.

“People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you.”

People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you. It can help you to relax or to go to sleep, it can transform the room that you’re stuck in all day by lighting a candle or putting on perfume. It’s a very small action that can have a big effect.

Douglas Little

You’re known for your love of natural fragrances. Many of my favourite fragrances are defined by their use of synthetics. How would you sell natural fragrances to me? And what do you mean by “natural?”

Natural fragrance is made from 100% naturally derived materials. “Naturally derived” is a term that’s specified by an agency called the ISO, meaning that the product is from a natural source. All of the materials we work with are naturally derived. In other words, they actually have to start out as a natural product.

The difference between natural and synthetic fragrances is that synthetic fragrances last longer. They can have a lot more of what I would call softer nuances to them. But they can also be overwhelming. Synthetics are engineered in a laboratory to be very fragrant, whereas with naturally derived materials, the fragrance is a by-product of the natural material itself. As a result, the fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them. It’s easier for people to identify the fragrance notes in naturally derived fragrances than in synthetic fragrances.

“Naturally derived fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them.”

 

Douglas Little

The other important reason for naturally derived fragrance is that they are free from the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances. About 90% of the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances are petrol derived.

I wanted to create a product that was dramatically different from anything else that was currently on the market. The main reason people don’t use naturally derived materials on a more regular basis is because of their cost and they don’t necessarily appeal to everyone, whereas synthetic fragrances appeal to a broad audience. They are inexpensive, but can also be toxic.

How do you approach the creation of fragrance? Is it a technical or artistic process for you?

It’s both. I start with a concept. I build off of an idea and then start to figure out how to work with naturally derived materials to create that idea. It’s a two-part process and part of the reason I love fragrance so much is because it is equal parts art and science.

Do you have a philosophy as such? Is your company’s name “Heretic” a reflection of that?

Yes. The reason I chose the name Heretic is because when I first started this company, I wanted to do a line of fragrance derived from 100% natural materials. I was told that I was insane, that it was impossible and would never sell. I was also told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives and heretics from a very astute perfume company. It was my mission to prove them wrong.

“I was told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives. It was my mission to prove them wrong.”

Douglas Little

What will be the key trends in fragrance this decade?

Going back to the basics. As a consumer and watching the habits of consumers, we are all inundated with information. We are moving at such a rapid rate and we’re expected to perform at such a high velocity. There is a need for more simplicity.

Douglas Little

For more info on Douglas Little, visit douglaslittle.com and Heretic Parfum. All pics of Douglas Little and associated products supplied. 

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Penhaligon’s 150th Anniversary: Interview With Company CEO Lance Patterson

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

I recently celebrated Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary by compiling a list of their 10 best fragrances. With hindsight, I probably should have done a top 20. There are so many standouts from this British heritage brand that was founded by barber William Penhaligon in 1870.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

ENTREPRENEURIAL FOUNDER: The life of William Penhaligon is integral to the Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary celebrations.

In this post I continue to mark Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary in an interview with Lance Patterson, the company’s CEO (pictured below). He talks to me about their new fragrance launch, the effects of the coronavirus, the importance of heritage and customer preferences.

Image: Penhaligon’s.

How is the company celebrating its 150th year in business?

We are highlighting this important milestone throughout the year by telling the stories that make up our rich history on our digital platforms, as well as when we get back into retail.

A key moment was the launch of The Favourite in early March, a stunning floral fragrance with notes of mimosa, violet leaf, bergamot and sandalwood. It was inspired by Sarah Churchill, the Duchess of Marlborough, a very influential woman of her time and best friend of Queen Anne. Sarah was the Keeper of the Privy Purse and the Mistress of the Robes, responsible for the royal wardrobe. She was also instrumental in building Blenheim Palace. It’s one of the most impressive palaces in England and a place of great importance to Penhaligon’s heritage where one of our most iconic scents was born in 1902.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

Blenheim Bouquet was created in 1902 by Walter Penhaligon, William’s son, and was a private commission by the ninth Duke of Marlborough who resided at Blenheim Palace. So we are very proud to celebrate the brand’s history with a nod to this chapter and introduce another classic yet thoroughly modern fragrance.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

ROYAL INSPIRATION: Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire, is of great importance to Penhaligon’s heritage. Image: Penhaligon’s.

We are also gearing up for an iconic Christmas campaign that will celebrate the brand’s British heritage and its spirit of generosity.

How has the coronavirus pandemic affected the Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary celebrations?

Although we had to cancel our big global event for the 150th anniversary, we adapted quickly to the new environment. We are now focusing on digital campaigns and bringing the brand alive in a number of interactive ways on social media, the website and via email marketing.

People are spending a lot of time online and we found new ways to connect with them via tools like Instagram Live or series of online Q&As, where we delve into the brand and celebrate our fragrances old and new.

Penhaligon’s 150th Anniversary

Heritage and tradition are very much part of the brand. How is that balanced with more modern trends and tastes?

We love bringing a more contemporary experience to our customer through initiatives such as online Fragrance Profiling, which helps you find your perfect scent and sample it at home. At the heart of our Fragrance Profiling is a rich history of storytelling around our scents.  When we share these stories and give our consumers more knowledge and history behind the fragrances, we see a much stronger long-term connection being established.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

BRAND HISTORY: The front of the store on 33 St James Street, London, when the company was known as Penhaligon & Jeavons in the 1890s. Image: Penhaligon’s.

Our loyal consumers love sharing what they learn and become our finest ambassadors. They love the entertaining and quirky side of the brand that we embodied in olfactive fiction in the Portraits collection, which has become a great success story for the brand. The connection people make with the Portraits’ characters shows the strength in storytelling for fragrances.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

What would fans be surprised to know about Penhaligon’s?

Many don’t know that our founder, William Penhaligon, was from Cornwall originally and moved with his entire family to London to set up shop. He was the original young entrepreneur, had a unique vision and made his dream happen.

“William Penhaligon was the original young entrepreneur, had a unique vision and made his dream happen.”

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

What’s the best-selling product?

Best-sellers change depending on the season and region. But globally our market can’t get enough of The Tragedy of Lord George, Halfeti and The Coveted Duchess Rose. But there are others that have been our top sellers for more than 100 years such as Blenheim Bouquet.

However, we know that fragrance is a personal choice and want to offer our customers a lot of variety and options, hence having over 50 fragrances in our collection.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Which country is the company’s biggest market?

Our domestic market is very important for us, but the brand is loved in many other parts of the world, with Asia being a rapidly growing region in the past few years.

What do the company’s various markets tell us about their customers’ preferences?

Although there definitely are local nuances when it comes to fragrance preferences, we also notice that customers globally are looking for a very individualistic expression of their personality. They increasingly want more unique scents, especially the younger clientele.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE: The Penhaligon’s store on Wellington Street, Covent Garden, in London. Image: Penhaligon’s.

For example, young Arabic customers are choosing less oud-based scents and exploring florals and gourmands. In Asia fresher, lighter scents are favoured, but again a younger demographic often go for more opulent scents like Lord George and Halfeti.

Penhaligon’s justifiably is seen as a niche fragrance success story. But what’s been the company’s costliest mistake? And how was that rectified?

Like all brands, Penhaligon’s has faced challenges when entering different markets in a rapidly changing retail landscape. One of our most important lessons was with our expansion into the US. We took risks in opening too quickly and have had to reassess how best to move forward.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Can you share some interesting Penhaligon’s stats with my readers?

Hammam Bouquet is turning 148 this year. This icon of the brand, created by William Penhaligon himself, makes Chanel No 5, at 99 years old, look like a youngster.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

 

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Anne Flipo Interview: The Creation Of YSL Libre EDP

Anne Flipo

Mention some of the biggest fragrances of the last decade and chances are that Anne Flipo was behind them. The French perfumer is highly respected in the industry and by her many fans for her accomplished and distinctive work across the niche and designer fragrance categories.

Some of her standout creations and co-creations during her career include:

  • L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT (1999)
  • Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia EDP (2010)
  • Lancôme La Vie est Belle EDP (2012)
  • Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT (2013)
  • Chloé Love Story EDP (2014)
  • Jimmy Choo Illicit EDP (2015)
  • Paco Rabanne Olympéa EDP (2015)
  • Jo Malone Herb Garden Collection (2016)
  • Givenchy L’Interdit EDP (2018)

Anne Flipo

Anne Flipo has also produced several successful fragrances for YSL, including L’Homme EDT (2006) and Manifesto EDP (2012). So it’s no surprise that the luxury French fashion brand sought her expertise to create their new fragrance, YSL Libre, which was released in 2019. See my review of it at the end of this interview.

Anne Flipo

She originally wanted to study flavours, but changed direction after falling under the spell of perfumery. Her work has been recognised through several awards, including the Cosmetique Magazine Perfumer of the Year award in 2014, Cosmetic Executive Women France Achiever Award for Creation in 2016 and Fragrance Foundation Awards for Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana Cologne (2018), among others.

In this email interview, Anne Flipo talks to me about her career, the creation of YSL Libre and the joys of orange blossom.

Where and when were you born?

I was born in 1963 in Laon in the north of France.

How is the coronavirus affecting you and your work?

Three years ago I organised an office in my home in the north of France, so working from home is nothing new for me.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

Today I’m working, so for better evaluation of the fragrance I am working on, I prefer not be perfumed.

Anne Flipo

When did you know that you wanted to become a perfumer?

I have always been strongly attracted to scents and olfactive materials, especially flowers. Later, when I was a student, I was a trainee in a fragrance house. It was obvious to me that I belonged in this world. I enjoyed discovering essential oils and trying to associate them so much, I thought being a perfumer would suit me perfectly.

“Someone told me that being a woman would make my project ‘uneasy’. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day.”

Besides, at that time, someone told me that being a woman would make my project “uneasy”. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day. I am quite obstinate in a way.

Anne Flipo

You studied at ISIPCA in Versailles. What was the most valuable thing you learned while studying there?

I had a lot of time to learn about raw materials, smelling and evaluating.

What didn’t they teach you while studying that you had to learn for yourself through experience?

Everything! I really began my training when I worked with my mentors such as Michel Almairac [the creator of fragrances such as Christian Dior Fahrenheit EDT, Gucci Rush EDP and Le Labo Ambrette 9 EDP].

Anne Flipo

How would you describe your fragrance style?

Difficult question. I’d say I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind. Orange blossom takes a huge part in my signature too. It is the ingredient I would never be fed up with. I could create a thousand perfumes around it, without it ever being redundant.

“I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind.”

What was the brief for YSL Libre?

The initial brief was to revisit the [often masculine] fougère for women.

Anne Flipo

How did you feel when it was announced on the same day in 2019 that IFF [the company she has worked for since 2004] were recognising you as a master perfumer and that your Libre proposal had been accepted?

I felt overwhelmed with emotion. It was a double recognition of my work and my career as a whole.

YSL Libre was a collaborative project with Carlos Benaïm. How did this collaboration work? Did you meet while working on this project?

I came up with the original idea and asked Carlos to step in. We worked separately and at each step we chose the best version as a new starting point while keeping the vision.

I fell in love with Carlos’s orange blossom absolute, because it brought opulence while maintaining its freshness.

During the seven years of development, Carlos and I were constantly in touch. We met several times during these years and each brought our own arrangements to the formula. We smelled them together in order to choose the best of our “mod” (in perfumers’ language, it’s an olfactory trial). Libre was a true four-handed creation between Paris and NYC. The fruit of a beautiful collaboration on both sides of the Atlantic.

PERFECTIONIST: Anne Flipo created YSL Libre EDP in a very close collaboration with Carlos Benaïm.

Apart from its seven years of development, YSL Libre apparently took more than 1 570 tries. Why did it take so long for it to eventually to come to fruition?

Fragrance creation is generally a long-term endeavour – a long and fascinating journey. Indeed, Libre took us more than 1750 trials, maybe because both Carlos and I are perfectionists. We worked hand in hand from each side of the Atlantic to achieve the perfect balance for the formula.

ALL ABOUT YVES: YSL Libre is inspired by the gender-bending spirit of legendary French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Image: YSL.

The fragrance has intriguing masculine and feminine aspects. How did you achieve that?

Libre is a freestyle take on the fougère to reveal its original feminine facet. We revisited this masculine structure by insisting on details that could turn it into a very feminine scent, just like Yves Saint Laurent re-tailored the tuxedo for women.

Lavender from France embodies the spirit of the fougère structure. We decided to blend it with orange flower from Morocco to obtain a gender-bending heart playing with both masculine and feminine facets.

SUITABLE INSPIRATION: Helmut Newton’s iconic image of YSL Le Smoking tuxedo for French Vogue in 1975. Image: YSL.

Looking back at your impressive body of work, do you have a particular favourite?

No, because all of my creations are unique. I treasure all of them, as I created them with passion.

What other projects have you just completed?

I completed YSL L’Homme Le Parfum this year and the other projects are confidential for now.

Anne Flipo

FRAGROOM YSL LIBRE EDP REVIEW

When two top perfumers collaborate on a project, success is not necessarily guaranteed. But then Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm are no ordinary “noses”. Both come with major credentials and their experience is displayed to great effect in YSL Libre.

The EDP opens with the distinctive character of fresh lavender. A special variety grown in Provence, diva lavender, was used by the perfumers. It’s warm, slightly sweet and unmistakably floral, instead of the clean and cool customer many of us may be used to. It’s strengthened with the addition of lavandin heart. So there’s no getting away from the lavender profile of this scent. There’s a bit of fresh citrusy action too, courtesy of notes of mandarin orange and neroli.

Anne Flipo

The fresh aspect is further developed when the orange blossom comes through. And boy, does it shine in a rich and most sensual way! Another white floral, jasmine sambac, is present in the mix, but it knows its supportive place in the scheme of things.

Image: YSL.

The drydown is dominated by a special extract of vanilla from Madagascar, thankfully not the sickly sweet kind. This deep one has quality written all over it. It works particularly well together with the musk and amber.

Kudos to the creators for this fragrance with a twist that doesn’t smell like everything else on the market. While it’s clearly intended to be a best-seller, not everyone will like its play on the masculine and the feminine. Expect to see several flankers over this decade.

YSL Libre EDP, R1 060 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 050 for 90ml. For more info, read here.

Anne Flipo

 

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Sophie Berdoues Interview: Four Generations Of Perfumery

Berdoues

Heritage is a valuable commodity in the perfume industry, and Berdoues has it in abundance. Founded in 1902 by barber Guillaume Berdoues, the French company has remained a family-owned business over four generations and is currently led by the founder’s great grand-daughter, Sophie Berdoues.

I first heard of the brand last year when its Collection Grands Crus was launched in South Africa (its older collection 1902 might be launched in the country at a later stage).

For obvious reasons, travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. This range of 12 mostly unisex EDPs makes the most of it with an impressive variety of fairly straightforward, feel-good blends that evoke destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

Image: MapStudio.

I got to try all of the EDPs that are available in the country at a media launch in Cape Town in February this year. Two, in particular, have become regulars in my fragrance wardrobe.

Taking its cue from the Amazon rainforest and created by Jennifer Riley, Selva do Brazil opens with a super-fresh note of petitgrain from Paraguay. It’s sharp, invigorating and lushly green in character. Notes of tonka bean from Brazil and guaiac wood from Argentina add to the forest-y ambience. It’s a simple composition, but never fails to give me a mood boost.

Berdoues

Created by Philippe Romano, Maasaï Mara is a mellower and warmer, but equally appealing affair. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape.

Berdoues

I got to interview Sophie Berdoues via email about the importance of heritage, the collection and her work.

What is your main responsibility as president of the company?

I develop and lead the company’s strategy with my team. We define the general objectives, but I leave the final decisions about the financial, material and human resources to execute within the guidelines and decisions taken. I also lead the company’s management committee and am responsible for its results.

What’s the best part of your job?

The team work and launch of new projects.

And the most stressful?

Sometimes having to make important decisions for the business alone.

Berdoues is very much about heritage. Why is it so important to you?

My father, like my grandfather, spent a lot of time and energy to develop high-quality perfumes. My father passed on to me the passion for perfumery, raw materials and, above all, freedom. I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.

“I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.”

Berdoues

FAMILY WAY: Sophie Berdoues is very proud of her family’s perfume heritage, which includes, clockwise from top right, her father Pierre, her grandfather Henri and great-grandfather Guillaume. Images: Berdoues.

Why did you launch the Collection Grand Crus?

We wanted to give a nod to my family through perfumes highlighting the most beautiful raw materials of perfumery, which I started to smell at a very young age. This is what seduced my family at the beginning of this story and today our consumers. We wanted to tell a story of travel through natural materials selected for their olfactory qualities – blends like the great French wines.

What criteria do you use for the perfumers who create the fragrances for the Collection?

It all starts with cards, photos, desires and a blank sheet. The destination inspires our perfumers. A lived or fantasised memory, it reveals a world region which, for us, carries history. This creation builds the search for materials where it is best expressed olfactively. The beauty of the world is endless, and so are our creations.

The fragrances are very reasonably priced. How did you achieve that?

We made the strategic choice of placing the entire budget in what is most important to us: perfume. And there, it’s my roots that speak. We have surrounded ourselves with perfumers based in Grasse, the cradle of perfumery in the south of France. For the other aspects of product creation, we have chosen to work with a standard bottle that we have dressed. We also work with local partners for all items of the product.

Berdoues fragrances are available from selected Foschini and Truworths stores. R1 595 for 100ml. 

*This post is sponsored by Orleans Cosmetics, the distributor of Berdoues Collection Grands Crus in South Africa.*

 

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Interview With Olivier Pescheux, Creator Of Diptyque Eau Capitale

Olivier Pescheux

At the time of writing this post, Olivier Pescheux would have had every right to be pleased with himself. The award-winning perfumer’s latest creation, Diptyque Eau Capitale, has been getting a lot of attention. You can read my review of this gorgeous rose-hued chypre here.

Olivier Pescheux

After studying at ISIPCA in Versailles, the Parisian worked for Payan Bertrand and Annick Goutal. He has been with Givaudan since 1998. Whether working with designer, celebrity or niche brands, Olivier Pescheux is remarkably versatile and respected for his bold style. The Paris-based perfumer has an impressive list of creations to his name. This edited list shows the breadth and depth of his works over the years:

  • Christian Dior Higher EDT (2001)
  • Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme EDT (2005)
  • Yves Rocher Voile d’Ambre EDP (2005)
  • Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT (2008)
  • Montblanc Legend EDT (2011)
  • Parfums de Marly Herod EDP (2012)
  • Yohji Yamamato Yohji Homme EDT (2013)
  • Armani Privé Myrrhe Impériale EDP (2013)
  • Davidoff Horizon EDT (2016)
  • H&M Beauty Fragrance Collection (2018)
  • Versace Eros Flame EDP (2018)
  • Coach Dreams EDP (2020)
Olivier Pescheux

Image: Fragrantica.com.

Olivier Pescheux is also the creative force behind a number of Diptyque fragrances, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Vetyverio and Tempo. He answered my questions via email about Diptyque Eau Capitale, perfume pressures and why he’s not keen on launching his own brand.

Olivier Pescheux

DIPTYQUE DIMENSION: Olivier Pescheux has created several fragrances for the Paris-based niche fragrance brand, including Tempo.

What does your role as Vice President Perfumer at Givaudan entail?

Being a perfumer means that I create perfumes to answer our clients’ requests, and being a VP perfumer means that I am becoming older with more responsibilities.

“The idea was to illustrate the perfect perfume for a Parisien/Parisienne: chic and elegant, but also sensual and sexy.”

Using Diptyque Eau Capitale as an example, how do you approach the creation of a fragrance?

The idea behind  Eau Capitale was to illustrate the perfect perfume for a Parisien/Parisienne: chic and elegant, but also sensual and sexy, ready for a date at any time. The chypre family was obvious for me. It’s how I started to work.

Olivier Pescheux

Did you revisit François Coty’s classic when you were creating it?

Chypre by François Coty gave birth to a new family that took the name. The base of a chypre is made of bergamot, cistus labdanum, patchouli and oakmoss. With time and to respect norms, the oakmoss was replaced by evernyl (one of the oakmoss components). Eau Capitale contains these four raw materials, but is not inspired by the pilar.

Some people have compared it with Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady. Your thoughts please.

It is a nice compliment, as I love Portrait. It’s rosier, more mature, with more patchouli. But both of them are grandsons of Coriandre by Jean Couturier [the classic from 1973].

Image: Fragrantica.com.

According to Fragrantica, you’ve created 114 fragrances in your career so far. How do you make sure you balance quantity with quality?

Thank you, I didn’t know that. 114 fragrances in 28 years, which means four per year. It’s a good rhythm, which gives me enough time to create a fragrance without losing the quality I always want to have in my creations.

Olivier Pescheux

What’s been the biggest change in the industry since you first became a perfumer?

It’s the time we have to develop a fragrance. It’s quicker and quicker, and the number of projects is getting bigger and bigger.

Any prediction what will be the most important development in perfumery this decade?

People are talking about AI, but it is difficult to predict the impact it may have on creation. It could help perfumers with basic work like helping to choose the right product for a specific application (stability issue, etc). I am not expecting a big change. Small changes will probably have the most impact.

Olivier Pescheux

Image: giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com.

What kind of pressures do modern perfumers have to deal with?

The first pressure is time and being able to create a fragrance faster and faster while respecting norms and prices. The other is to create a fragrance that will please people in the US, China, Europe, Latin America and the Middle East!

Olivier Pescheux

Have you ever experienced a fundamental disagreement with a client over one of your creations? How do you deal with that?

Yes, I remember one disagreement I had. I created a fragrance where I used a new captive material. It was very strong and I knew that but, after maceration, it became overly powerful. Some customers brought back their bottle, complaining about the fragrance and they were right. It was really bad. Our client was very nice and said that he was also responsible, because he forgot to check the perfume after maceration before putting the fragrance on the shelves.

Olivier Pescheux

Image: parfums-de-marly.com.

Any ambitions to launch your own fragrance company?

Not really. There are too many cooks in the kitchen! And it is not about creating a fragrance, but a brand. It demands a lot of time and energy. I am very happy with my job and I don’t have any frustrations.

Olivier Pescheux

Image: pacorabanne.com.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

 

 

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Interview with Shyamala Maisondieu, Co-Creator Of Lancôme Idôle

Shyamala Maisondieu

When Shyamala Maisondieu was awarded the 2019 Prix François Coty in recognition of her career and creations, it was confirmation of what I had known for a while. The Malaysian-born perfumer is one of the brightest perfume talents of her generation.

Shyamala Maisondieu

A quick snap-shot of her diverse creations/co-creations will tell you that:

  • Etat Libre d’Orange Charogne EDP (2008)
  • Yves Rocher Rose Fraîche EDT(2012)
  • Diesel Only The Brave Wild EDT (2014)
  • Les Liquides Imaginaires Succus EDP (2015)
  • L’Occitane en Provence Terre de Lumière EDP (2017)
  • 27 87 Hamaca EDP (2017)
  • Coach Floral EDP (2018)
  • Mugler Cologne Run Free EDT (2018)
  • Mademoiselle Rochas EDT (2018)
  • Coach Dreams EDP (2020)

Image: etatlibredorange.com.

Little wonder Shyamala Maisondieu was chosen to co-create Lancôme Idôle EDP. It’s the first new perfume launch from the French beauty giant since their decade-defining La Vie Est Belle.

It’s too soon to tell whether it will go on to repeat the success of its predecessor. But there’s no doubting that this new EDP will receive equal amounts of love and hate. For my review of this clean rose fragrance, please see my Instagram page (@richgoller).

Shyamala Maisondieu

Shyamala Maisondieu chatted to me about this prestige project, its pressures and her perfume career.

What attracted you to the world of perfumery?

I actually came to it by accident. It was after I had graduated in chemical engineering, was looking for a job and happened to see an advertisement in a local newspaper in Malaysia looking for graduates with a chemistry background. But what attracted me was the mention that I would be willing to travel and live in another country.

“It had both artistic and scientific aspects to the job, where my strengths and capabilities lie.”

What really won me over was when I met a perfumer who told me all about his job, and I realised there and then, it was exactly what I wanted to do. It had both artistic and scientific aspects to the job, where my strengths and capabilities lie.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: liquidesimaginaires.com.

Where did you study? What was the most important thing you learned there?

I was very, very lucky to have been able to study at the perfumery school of Givaudan, while it was in Grasse. I had a teacher, Francoise Marin, who insisted on us being curious. That has stayed with me and fuelled how I see life in general. I am always open to new ideas. That is one of the most important things about being a perfumer.

Shyamala Maisondieu

What was the first fragrance you created and how do you feel about it now?

I’ve had two different perfumery lives. I started off as a perfumer in consumer products (detergent, soaps and shampoo). And then in 2016 I joined the Givaudan fine fragrance team. There are two fragrances which I created at that time: Tom Ford Bois Marocain EDP [2009] and Eau de Sisley 3 EDP [2009]. I still am very proud of them. They are both raw and at the same time express very much what I like in perfumery – a central focus on natural raw materials.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: tomford.com.

How would you describe yourself as a perfumer?

Difficult question to answer. I love what I do and feel so blessed to be able to do what I do every day. But it was a long and difficult road, quite bumpy at times. I wouldn’t be here if it hadn’t been for many people, luck, but also a lot of hard work and patience. Trying to be positive, I have a happy outlook in my life and respect people. I hope that reflects in my work.

Shyamala Maisondieu

What was the brief for Lancôme Idôle in terms of its olfactory profile?

It was to create a new olfactory profile that would appeal to the younger generation, but also globally. It was a challenging brief. Givaudan had done an interesting study to understand what was internationally appealing. The idea of the smell of cleanliness was important. With my background and early experience in other product categories, I had an idea of what could smell clean. So I created this Clean & Glow accord, which straight away was loved by the fragrance developers at Lancôme.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Idôle is the brand’s first new fragrance following the huge success of La Vie est Belle. Did you feel any pressure to create another blockbuster?

Pressure was enormous, of course. It still is; time will tell how Idôle will fare. But we had a great team and L’Oréal [the owner of Lancôme] also had that same pressure. Everyone was committed and we worked hard. We had a goal and somehow the pressure was turned into a positive motivation.

Shyamala Maisondieu

You co-created the fragrance with Adriana Medina-Baez and Nadege le Garlantezec. How does this kind of collaboration work? Are you responsible for different parts?

The creation process is different for different projects. The main thing is to have great communication within the team. For this project, we all worked in many different ways. We each tried to bring something special to the fragrance and also worked on it in a technical aspect, ie, in terms of strength diffusion and long-lastingness. Each of us brought something specific, but which wasn’t completely defined at the beginning. It sort of comes out because of our history, our background and the raw materials which we love.

PERFUME PARTNERS: Shyamala Maisondieu, Adriana Medina-Baez and Nadège Le Garlantezec co-created Lancôme Idôle.

Have you read reviews of the fragrance?

I’m still too nervous to read them. I think I’ll wait.

“Pressure was enormous, of course. It still is; time will tell how Idôle will fare.”

You’re married to perfumer Antoine Maisondieu and work for the same company. How do you support each other?

Antoine and I have been separated for some time now, six years. But we met at perfumery school and were friends and colleagues before being husband and wife. We have managed to come back to that. Being friends and colleagues, but with something special still remaining in that, we trust each other. It is a question of sharing many things, be it ideas or information, or critical advice on each other’s perfumes.

Shyamala Maisondieu

Image: inter.mugler.com.

What other projects are you working on / have just completed?

I’ve just completed a new fragrance for Etat Libre d’Orange (I love this brand). I’m working with other colleagues on various projects, which is a lot of fun as I am learning from them. And I’m starting a lot of new ideas, but it’s still too early to see where they will end up.

For more info on Lancôme Idôle, read here. 

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Francis Kurkdjian Interview: Always Looking Forward To The Future

November 6 2019 was a special day – it’s when I got to meet Francis Kurkdjian for a tête-à-tête. The Paris-based perfumer was on a break in Stellenbosch, near Cape Town, but generously agreed to a morning of interviews when he was contacted by Skins Cosmetics. Maison Francis Kurkdjian is the best-selling brand at the niche retailer, especially his ouds, Baccarat Rouge 540 and Grand Soir.

Francis Kurkdjian

When we arrive at the venue, Francis Kurkdjian is comfortably dressed in a white shirt, jeans and sneakers. There’s an opportunity to chat before the official interviews about how much he’s enjoying his holiday in the country. We’re all put at ease, as he’s approachable and authentic.

Francis Kurkdjian

But before we get to the actual interview, five quick facts about Francis Kurkdjian. They will give you an idea why he’s one of the most successful creators in modern perfumery.

  • He trained at ISIPCA, the renowned perfume school in Versailles.
  • He made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle in 1995 at the age of 26.
  • This blockbuster was followed by numerous other high-profile scents. Some of these include: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999), Lancôme Miracle Homme EDT (2001), Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005), Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007), Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011), Carven Pour Homme EDT (2014) and Mr Burberry EDT (2016).
  • Maison Francis Kurkdjian was launched in 2009 and a majority stake was sold to the French luxury giant LVMH in 2017.
  • He has been awarded the Prix François Coty and named a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres.

When it’s my turn to interview Francis Kurkdjian, he invites me to join him on the sofa. The conversation is wide ranging and goes on far longer than our allocated 20 minutes. I’m so excited to be talking to him that I forget to take any pictures of my own with him. So big thanks to Kim Currin, the photographer who was hired to take pictures for the special occasion.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m not wearing anything. I wear what I am working on, but I’m not working on anything right now. I’m taking a creative break. I’m done with 2021 and then I’ll start working on 2022.

Do you work that far ahead?

Yes, always.

Do you love planning?

I love planning [laughs]. And even not doing anything is planned.

Francis Kurkdjian

Are you a bit of a control freak?

[Slight hesitation] Yes, but in a nice way, meaning I like to plan certain things. But I am not going to freak out if something doesn’t happen the way I wanted it. I’ve learned things can be out of my control. And usually if you want to achieve great things, you can’t be a control freak. You need to delegate and accept it will be done the best way possible.

“If you want to achieve great things, you can’t be a control freak.”

Can you tell what fragrance I am wearing today?

Smoke [he smiles] and something else on the side, but I’m not sure what it is. [I’m wearing Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver, which was launched in 2019 as part of a fragrance duo.]

Francis Kurkdjian

Are you sensitive to smoke?

I used to be a smoker myself. I’m sensitive to everything. It’s not just about smoke. It’s just more intense.

I gave up about three months ago. I was tired of smoking and decided not to be dependent. It’s like freeing yourself. Once in a while I smoke, because I don’t want to freak out. I’m here for a birthday party and smoked a little more than I should have done. But tomorrow I will be back in Paris and will not be smoking.

Francis Kurkdjian

When did you love of perfumery start? I read in your bio that you were thinking of becoming a ballet dancer.

That was my dream. It’s still my dream job. I’m too old now.

It’s one of your passions?

It’s not a crazy passion the way people sometimes speak about doing something for passion. I hate fanaticism. It’s very scary. No matter what its objective, it’s too much. I hate fanaticism in perfumes. Sometimes you have fans in perfumes. Perfume is important, but not to a point where you have to become a fanatic.

I was a teenager in the 80s when I started to become fascinated with perfumes. Not only the scent itself. I was hooked on the whole thing – the name, the bottle, the story, the ad. The 80s were a great era for perfume. When I show my team my references, I usually I go back to that era.

What I lOVE about the 80s is that perfumes were unapologetic and big.

Yes, for a scent to be successful, it needs to be big. I remember Fahrenheit, Kouros, Giorgio, Poison…

Your big international debut was with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle and it made your name. Did you feel any pressure to repeat its success?

Yes, it was my first perfume. [Long pause.] To be honest, yes. I tried to pretend not to [laughs], because I don’t like to complain. That was 25 years ago and no matter what I did afterwards, people take you back to that.

I don’t look backwards. I don’t put my prizes on my chimney. I have a very good memory, but I learned to look forward, because first of all you can’t change the past and what good does it do to complain about the past.

But for sure, it brought something different to the perfume industry. Every time I create a scent I try to bring something new. Sometimes you succeed, sometimes you don’t. It also depends on the brand you work for.

Congratulations on Maison Francis Kurkdjian celebrating its 10th year in business this year.

Merci. Thank you. I have a great business partner [Marc Chaya] who really knows how to take care of the brand.

There’s no doubting your creative flair. Would you call yourself a good businessman?

No [laughs]. I’m a good businessman from far away. I felt it was the right time for me to launch my brand, but it’s more about creative slash business. I’m not a good businessman for running a company. My business partner gives me advice and shares his creative vision with me. By far, the company has been successful thanks to him. I create scents, but he gives them resonance with the team in Paris. We now have 60 people in Paris. Every two years, we double the size of the company.

PERFUME PARTNERS: Marc Chaya with Francis Kurkdjian.

That’s a lot of people to worry about.

No, I don’t worry any more. When we sold the majority stake to LVMH, I felt freer, which is interesting. I did not expect to feel that way. If something happens to me, the company belongs to a corporation that is capable of pursuing what I started.

“When we sold the majority stake to LVMH, I felt freer, which is interesting. I did not expect to feel that way.”

You’re admired by many people for your oud fragrances, although you actually create many other types of fragrances, too. Why do you like to work with oud?

It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery. I then asked myself: Should I use oud the way they do in the Middle East, or should I do it the way I think I should do it? Oud comes from India and it’s very popular in the Middle East, but I should use oud the way I use patchouli from Malaysia in European perfume.

Francis Kurkdjian

You juggle your maison with your work for other brands such as Elie Saab, Burberry and Kenzo? How do you approach them?

I am doing less recently. It’s a different mindset. The best comparison I can give you is if you’re an actor and you perform in a movie with a director on a set that’s not yours. When I work for someone else, first of all you need to read a script, which is a brief, and you search for what can resonate with a part of you. You’re given most of the work. I mean you’re given the material, the landscape is designed for you.

Whereas for my brand, I am the source of the inspiration, and then with my team I build around it. But it’s very egocentric. I’ve always been scared of that egocentricism, because [laughs] I see the damage it brings to the creative community. I got scared when I started working for some other people and I saw the egomania and craziness. You don’t really want to become one of those monsters.

Which perfume do you want to be remembered most for?

Not yet. I hope I have a few more years. I give myself 10 years. I was shocked when I saw Nureyev dancing in one of his last performances and felt sad, even though I had much respect for what he’d achieved. It’s like a singer and they keep on singing their old standards. There’s something sad and heavy and heart-breaking about that. I don’t want to be a perfumer without something to say.

“It’s like a singer and they keep on singing their old standards. There’s something sad and heavy and heart-breaking about that.”

I think I have found for me the definition of getting old. It’s when you think it was better before, when you start saying it was better yesterday. When you start thinking about yesterday, basically you are thinking the future is not for you. I want to make sure I’m not going to be indulging in that kind of nostalgia.

How do you keep inspired?

It’s simple, but it needs work. You have to stay connected with your era. I know I’m part of the five percent of the global population who’s very lucky. I can walk in the street and I’m not famous. I can go to the supermarket and chat with the cashier about life. I have that freedom of interaction. Some people don’t have that, because they are too famous.

I also try not to post too many things on Instagram about what I have and what I do. Once in a while I do it. I did it yesterday, because I thought it was important to do it. Otherwise I am not in that cult. I think perfume is not appropriate to become a cult. It’s invisible.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

Francis Kurkdjian

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Gilles Thévenin Interview: Leading Lubin Into A New Era Of Haute Parfumerie

Gilles Thévenin

The perfume gods were clearly thinking of me a few months ago when a friend very generously gave me a bag full of Lubin samples. He’d been given them when he met the president of the legendary French perfume house, Gilles Thévenin, on a trip to Europe. I’ve been aware of Lubin for several years, but had never had the pleasure of smelling any of their fragrances. So what a joy it has been to go through the samples from their various collections, including Classique, Talismania and Evocations.

Gilles Thévenin

I’ve loved many of the scents I got to try, especially the deeper oriental scents Akkad EDP and Korrigan EDP, created by Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine respectively.

My favourite, though, would have to be Upper Ten EDP, created by Thomas Fontaine. It opens in lightly fresh and spicy territory with notes of pink pepper bergamot, juniper berries and specifically cardamom. The spicy profile is amplified with a big dose of cinnamon, which is beautifully contrasted with a deep leather note and a hint of juicy peach. The drydown is all about the balance between the rich woody and earthy aspects (cedar, sandalwood, patchouli) and musk. Distinctive in its own right, I can also definitely say it’s a Lubin creation, having now tried many of the house’s releases.

Gilles Thévenin Interview

I contacted Gilles Thévenin via email and he answered my questions on the same day I sent them to him. Before we get to the interview, though, I will give you a super-quick history of the house.

Pierre-François Lubin (pictured below) founded the maison in Paris in 1798. Early customers Gilles Théveninincluded Napoleon’s wife, Empress Joséphine, and the Russian and English royal courts. The 19th century saw its expansion under apprentice Felix Prot and his son, Paul. Both of them innovated the business with the construction of factories.

Lubin was particularly popular in America in the 20th century, with releases such as Nuit de Longchamp (1937) and Gin Fizz (1955) capturing the spirit of the times. It stayed in the Prot family until the end of the 1960s, but fell into decline after being sold. Gilles Thévenin revived the company in the early 21st century with Paul Prot’s sons, Laurent and Frédéric.

Tell me about your background.

I graduated from a French business school in 1981. Then I left for Asia, where  I spent two years at the trade commission of the French embassy in Jakarta. I travelled around Asia, from China to Nepal, and to remote places before they were invaded by mass tourism. Back to France, I started my career in perfumes in the mid-1980s, the golden age. I spent most of my career at Guerlain, where my last assignment was the international direction of creation. I left Guerlain when the family decided to sell to the LVMH group.

Gilles Thévenin

Why did you decide to buy Lubin?

I realised in 1996 that Lubin had been purchased two years before by Wella, the German group I was working for, together with a bunch of other brands. Among those brands was the Gucci perfume licence. I was then working at Parfums Rochas, which belonged to Wella as well. Everyone at Wella was obsessed by Gucci and the new potential the brand would offer under the direction of Tom Ford. They would entirely focus on the launch of Envy, the first Gucci fragrance of the new generation, planned in 1996.

Gilles Thévenin

In my eyes, on the contrary, Lubin, a legendary French brand, looked much more interesting. I had been impregnated by traditional luxury perfumery at Guerlain. After I tried convincing the board of the group to start Lubin again in the field of “haute parfumerie”, I realised they wouldn’t do it. I decided then to go on my own. It took another six years, after I left Rochas in 1998, before I could get hold of the brand and its archives, which were sold to me in 2004.

Gilles Thévenin

“The first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.” – Gilles Thévenin

What challenges have you experienced since you bought the company?

Unfortunately, many people have started fragrance businesses in recent years based on new registrations of ancient brands, pretending they are the legitimate owners of the brand’s heritage. In the case of Lubin, where the former owner’s descendants came on board with me in 2006 as investors and partners, the first challenge was to avoid confusion with those fake old brands with no heritage whatsoever.

Then the financing, of course – not the easiest part. Finally, to find the “noses” who would understand the brand’s spirit and who would be able to work on the heritage scents, making them compatible with today’s sanitary regulations, without spoiling the original creations.

How have you kept the balance between heritage and modern relevance?

It’s a question of impregnation. Lubin is a brand with a long heritage and an olfactory signature – not that much rational, more like a soul. Lubin has a life of its own, and everyone after having worked a few months with us is able to tell, when smelling a new scent in development, “This is Lubin”, or “It’s not”.

How involved are you in the creation of the fragrances?

I am not a perfume composer, in spite of my long experience. I work mainly with two perfumers, Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine, whose personalities are very different. They both have a precise idea on how to interpret a Lubin creation. Both of them are right in a way. The brand has a rich, multi-faceted personality and a culture of freedom of creation. There’s no marketing briefs here – it’s all about sharing ideas, stories and scent directions.

SHARING IDEAS: Delphine Thierry is one of the perfumers who works with Gilles Thévenin.

Everyone is pulling towards his or her own beliefs on how it should be. I am supposed to make all that work together and keep a certain stylistic coherence. But I don’t consider myself a creator, or an author, nor even a creative director. I just make sure everything runs smoothly and that our perfumes live up to Lubin’s reputation.

LUBIN NOSE: Thomas Fontaine works closely with Gilles Thévenin to maintain the brand’s reputation.

Does Lubin have a distinctive olfactory style?

It’s not for me to judge. I know that I am very fond of the old Lubin scents that we were able to reproduce (for our own information, because it would not be allowed to sell them as they are). It’s my taste and I guess the new scents we make are from the same lineage.

“What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste.”

What defines a style in perfumery is no more than one’s personal taste: for certain ingredients, certain type of accords, and the way the scents develop on the skin. As far as Lubin is concerned, persistent but not overwhelming, most of the time with a soft lift, not a strong one, head notes which remain discrete and not too assertive, and always a very rich dry down with lots of balms and precious woods.

Gin Fizz is one of the house’s classic scents. Is it still made according to the same formula?

The original formula was adapted several times since 1955, because the international regulations change very often. When I took over, the last formula was quite far from the original one. We started again in 2008 from the 1955 original “Henri Giboulet” formula, then it took more than one year to have former lady users recognise “their” scent”. The composition is close, but not identical, of course. Thomas the perfumer had to invent some tricks…

CLASSIC FORMULA: Paul Prot and perfumer Henri Giboulet working on Gin Fizz in 1955.

Which fragrance is the house’s best seller?

We have several good sellers: Gin Fizz, of course, but also Akkad, Grisette, Black Jade and Idole are best-sellers on a worldwide basis. But every single country has its peculiarities, sometimes with unexpected leaders. Epidor is dominant in Anglo-Saxon countries, while L’Eau Neuve is a big hit in France.

Do you have a favourite Lubin fragrance?

Several, the ones that I sometimes wear, some of them even discontinued for legal reasons. But I should say my SOTD is always a perfume that is not released yet, which I enjoy very egoistically, knowing that no one else in the world has access to it. This is the real time of the discovery, before you have the opportunity to smell it on other persons.

All images supplied by Lubin, except Lubin Upper Ten. The Lubin boutique can be found at 21 rue des Canettes, Saint Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris. For more information on Lubin, read here.