Cashmeran fragrances? Cashmere meets meringue? Er, no, but the synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least, and is found in everything from Cacharel LouLou EDP (1987) to Nasomatto Duro Extrait de Parfum (2007).
Discovered by John B Hall (the same International Flavors and Fragrances chemist who gave us Iso E Super) in the 1970s, it’s also known as blonde woods and cashmir wood.
It’s easy to understand its appeal to perfumers. More complex and versatile than most synthetics, it’s known for its cocooning muskiness and warm woodiness. It also has spicy, floral, fruity, powdery, pine-y nuances and is frequently used to build oud accords.
If you want to smell it in its unadulterated form, best get your nose on Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT.
The names of perfumers are included in brackets after the fragrances in this best cashmeran fragrances round-up.
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE DANS TES BRAS EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)
You know the niche cliché – the best perfumers and materials, unlimited creative freedom, quality and craftsmanship, blah-blah – but there’s much truth in it when we’re talking about this exemplary house. As with many fragrances from the company, this 2008 release is an undoubted genre best.
The muskiness of Cashmeran is the star of the show, with all the other notes contributing to its effectiveness. Violet and heliotropin bring on the powderiness, while sandalwood and white musk add smooth creaminess.
If Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur is unrestrained one-night-stand torridness, then Dans Tes Bras is the equivalent of a loving embrace.
THE HOUSE OF OUD BREATH OF THE INFINITE EDP** (ANDREA CASOTTI)
A stunning bottle doesn’t necessarily translate into a stunning perfume. No such worries with this 2016 release from the Italian niche brand that’s increasingly impressing us with its highly developed sense of artistry.
At first, this EDP from the Desert Day Collection whispers the freshness of freesia and peony notes. And then the powdery fruitiness of peach makes an appearance. All the while there’s a deep and distinctive sensuality delivered through a blend of Cashmeran, musk, Ambroxan and a touch of Irian oud (sourced from Indonesia).
There’s something quite sombre about it and I keep on coming back for more to try to work it out. But sometimes mystery must be left alone to work its magic.
NISHANE B-612 EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (CHRIS MAURICE)
I love the inspiration behind this 2018 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Imaginative Collection: the smell of the asteroid in The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I love its execution, too.
It opens with the clean aromatics of lavender, cypress and geranium notes. Cashmeran gives it lots of musky woodiness, with sandalwood and cedar adding to the woody profile. Notes of powdery musk and earthy oakmoss in the drydown complete the composition.
Perhaps not as childlike as its inspiration, there’s still something comforting and nostalgic about this scent.
COACH FOR MEN PLATINUM EDP (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)
The American leather goods brand scored a big hit with their debut male fragrance in 2017, Coach For Men EDT. The 2018 follow-up, Coach For Men Platinum EDP, kept the good times coming in a richer, more sophisticated style.
The opening is fresh, spicy and aromatic, thanks to a combo of black pepper and juniper berry notes. A sliver of pineapple adds a touch of fruity sweetness. The smooth woodiness of Cashmeran is supported by the aromatics of geranium and sage. The drydown sees the creaminess of vanilla, sandalwood and a leather accord.
It encapsulates everything I enjoy about the brand: crowd-pleasing affordability.
ESCENTRIC MOLECULES ESCENTRIC 05 EDT* (GEZA SCHOEN)
For this 2020 release, the partner to Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT, brand founder and perfumer Geza Schoen wanted to create a summery Mediterranean island fragrance without the aquatic clichés. He succeeds admirably with a scent that’s simple but evocative.
It opens with bright citrus notes of bergamot and orange. Hints of fig and fig leaf add to the sunny ambience. There’s more freshness of the aromatic variety from notes of juniper berry, rosemary and laurel, with the distinctive earthiness of cypress towering above it all.
The drydown displays Cashmeran at its resinous pine-y best, with supporting depth from mastic and labdanum. ISO E Super and Ambroxan also feature in the mix.
FRAGRANCE DU BOIS NEW YORK 5TH AVENUE EDP** (SHADI SAMRA)
With its seductive-sounding name, Petales de Cashmere EDT, I thought the 2016 release from the French niche brand must be a Cashmeran treat. I was wrong. The synthetic is to be found in all its glory in the 2020 release New York 5th Avenue.
Inspired by winter in the city, it opens with a crisp take on bergamot and especially rose. It gets sweeter and warmer with the richness of caramel and the spicy earthiness of cypriol oil. A subtle note of violet adds a touch of powderiness. The drydown of vanilla, musk and guaiac wood is given a silky-smooth finish via Cashmeran.
While undeniably sweet, it’s seriously sophisticated stuff.
ELECTIMUSS MERCURIAL CASHMERE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (SOFIA BARDELLI)
An apt name for a fragrance that changes from the light and bright to the sensual and deep.
This 2021 release from the London-based niche brand starts out in fresh and spicy mode with notes of Madagascan pink pepper, cardamom and Italian bergamot. The powder of iris and violet is paired with the white floral intensity of tuberose and the slight saltiness of a note of ambergris.
Cashmeran is at its musky-woody best in the drydown. There’s more sweetness (just enough) from notes of caramel, vanilla and tonka bean. I don’t pick up much of the listed oud note, but that’s just me being fussy.
Named for the Roman god Mercury, it might imply a rapid change in mood from charming to nasty, but this beauty is definitely about the former.
CARON NARCISSE BLANC EDP* (JEAN JACQUES)
The venerable French house that was founded by Ernest Daltroff in 1904 is experiencing a renaissance under the leadership of investor Ariane de Rothschild and in-house perfumer Jean Jacques.
Originally launched in 1923 and recreated in 2020, it begins with the citric tones of essences of Italian bergamot, sweet orange, Tunisian neroli and Tunisian petitgrain. It’s fresh and slightly green. The quality of the ingredients is evident.
It moves into more heady and honeyed territory with Tunisian orange blossom absolute and narcissus absolute. They are given a delectably creamy infusion with Cashmeran and vanilla, while another popular synthetic Ambroxan ensures it doesn’t collapse into heaviness. Superb stuff!
*These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
**These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.
Always so interesting and.inspiring!
Thank you, dear Aurore. That’s always a great combo!
The only one I tried from your list, Frederic Malle’s, didn’t wow me. I’m sure that I have this ingredient in perfumes in my collection (or at least among the samples I amassed), but it’s not something I can imagine how it smells. I need to check my DB and do a side-by-side sniffing of several examples.
I’m sure you’ll find this ingredient in several of your fragrances, dear Undina. Sometimes more noticeable than others.