Choo! Choo! We all know the sound of the frag hype-train as it gathers steam. And there’s certainly been a lot of fanfare around Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP since its release in 2019.
Following stints at Dominique Sirop, Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermès and Giambattista Valli, Marc-Antoine Barrois (pictured, below) launched his own couture brand for men in 2009. He made his fragrance debut in 2016 with the cult favourite Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 EDP, and the recently released Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade EDP looks set to become equally popular.
IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede triumphed at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2020 in France, the UK and Russia, and was a finalist in The Art and Olfaction Awards in the same year.
It’s being hailed as one of the best leather fragrances in recent years. I tell you why it’s so special.
PERFUMER
I’m starting to think Quentin Bisch must be one of the busiest perfumers around.
Born in Strasbourg and a graduate of the renowned Givaudan Perfumery School, he made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
Creations for brands such as Etat Libre d’Orange (La Fin du Monde EDP 2013), Ex Nihilo (Fleur Narcotique EDP, 2014), Mugler (A*Men Ultra Zest EDT, 2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier (Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP, 2016) showed he was a talent to watch, whether for designer or niche.
Quentin Bisch has been in non-stop demand ever since, with everyone seeming to want a piece of the “star perfumer” (he’s too humble and focused on his work to let such flattery go to his head).
Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021), Kenzo Homme EDT Intense (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) are just some of his achievements.
SO WHAT DOES MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS GANYMEDE EDP SMELL LIKE?
It starts out quietly with a citrus note of mandarin orange, fresh and unsweetened. The spice saffron is known for its leathery qualities and its treatment here is deft and without any heavy-handedness.
What makes this scent most intriguing is the dynamic between the airiness of violet leaf, floral fruitiness of osmanthus and herbaceousness of immortelle. The combined effect is softly salty and metallic. It sounds clinical but is given a sensual musky aspect with the synthetic Ambroxan.
It’s all held together with a liberal dose of the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood. Quentin Bisch has used this ingredient in other creations of his, including Mugler Angel Nova EDP, Etat Libre d’Orange Experimentum Crucis EDP and Ex Nihilo Cuir Celeste EDP. Here, it has elements of patchouli and woody spice.
Much is made of the collaboration between brands and perfumers in an increasingly creation-by-committee world. It’s clear the partnership between Marc-Antoine Barrois and Quentin Bisch epitomises what niche is all about: the exploration and execution of unusual ideas (yes, a designer brand can be niche too).
IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.
The beauty of Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede lies in its subtle sophistication and that it doesn’t venture into obviously animalic territory. While understated, it’s also multi-faceted, unique and, as per its inspiration – “the two fellow artists have dreamt of this new planet: Ganymede, the rocky satellite of Jupiter discovered in 1610 by Galileo, is both luminous and covered with salt-water oceans” – a tad otherworldly (some might even say disgusting and strange, I disagree).
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Great review and beautiful shots, Rich. It’s certainly a different one. Sadly, something in it reminds me of a dentist’s office. Not exactly the recollection I want when I’m wearing a fragrance. Haha. Props to the brand though for trying something different.
Big thank you, dear Daniel. Ha! Ha! Yes, I remember you saying something along those lines in your review last year. Glad you can appreciate its difference, though.