Chopard fragrances were recently launched in South Africa, and I was fortunate to be on the receiving end of several of their releases. While I’m familiar with the olfactory offerings from other luxury jewellery and watch brands (for example, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Cartier), it’s my first time with Chopard.
Image: chopard.com.
The Swiss company founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard (pictured, above) in 1860 has been in the fragrance biz since the 1980s. Earlier classic releases, Chopard Happy Diamonds (1986) and Chopard Casmir (1992), have been discontinued. But judging from the perfumes I received, the company has more than enough quality current scents to go around.
Image: Fragrantica.
“Sustainability” is often just a corporate buzzword, but from the admirably detailed product info, Chopard seems to be doing more than most to ensure their fragrances meet their “do good, feel good” philosophy. The brand emphasises its commitment to responsibly and ethically sourced ingredients (many of them naturals) from certified partners.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included after the name of the fragrance in this Chopard overview.
JOIE DE VIVRE: Julia Roberts is the face of the Chopard Happy Diamonds Collection. Image: chopard.com.
CHOPARD LOVE CHOPARD EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
Another day, another rose perfume… Not quite. While this recent (2020) release is a take on the queen of florals, it’s sufficiently different and multifaceted enough to stand out in the crowded category.
Billed as the company’s glamorous tribute to roses à la the Cannes Film Festival Red Carpet (Chopard is an official partner of the event), it’s roses from top to bottom. Various essences were used to create this EDP, including Turkish rose infusion, Bulgarian rose oil, Moroccan centifolia rose absolute and rose damascena absolute from Turkey.
Image: chopard.com.
It starts out fresh and dewy, with hints of pink pepper and cinnamon in the background. Bravo to the brand for admitting to the use of the synthetic rose molecule Roseolate, with its fruity nuances. It gets spicier and warmer as the fragrance progresses, with notes of jasmine sambac and orange blossom adding to the richness. There’s a lot going on in the gourmand drydown, in which earthy patchouli meets notes of honey, cacao and vanilla.
The result? Sweet, over-the-top sophistication. And I mean that in a good way.
CHOPARD BLACK INCENSE MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
Wowzers! Inspired by the ancient tradition of royal frankincense, the most recent addition to the brand’s Middle East-inspired Malaki Collection (2020) is standout stuff. Some people might even use the dreaded phrase, “niche quality”, to describe it.
The fresh aromatics of lavandin oil from France is distinctive among the various spices of the opening. There’s then plenty more spice of the smoky and resinous frankincense kind, courtesy of the essential oil sourced from family-owned company Neo Botanika in Somaliland.
Perfume geek alert! It’s given a leather-licious feel thanks to “a pyrogenation process [which] sublimates the original note”, according to Firmenich. I’m not quite sure what that means, but the effect is intoxicatingly dark and potent. The dense drydown sees Indonesian patchouli taking the lead, with its earthy and musky properties.
Alberto Morillas (pictured, below) might be the most prolific perfumer in the biz, but he has not lost his touch.
Image: Firmenich.
CHOPARD OUD MALAKI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
From Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Mugler Alien EDP to Elie Saab Girl of Now EDP and YSL Y EDP, Dominique Ropion (pictured, below) gets the balance between creative and commercial success just right. This 2012 release from the Malaki Collection exemplifies this approach. Let’s get the obvious out of the way first. At the price, this is definitely not a “real” oud, but Ropion masterfully creates a damn fine approximation.
Featuring notes of grapefruit, lavender and artemisia, the opening is brisk and fresh. The temperature increases with a combo of caramel-y tobacco and spice. The synthetic oud is quality stuff and captures the warm and sweet muskiness of the precious ingredient in an accessible style. It’s accentuated by synthetic ambergris and wood notes.
Don’t let all this talk of synthetics – the backbone of modern perfumery – put you off this EDP. They’re used in the right way, so you wouldn’t even know the difference.
HAPPY CHOPARD LEMON DUCLI EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)
The Happy Chopard Collection was launched in 2018 and takes its cue from the scientific research on the link between feel-good scents and their influence on mood. Although not marketed as such, it has a younger feel than the other Chopard ranges, but has broad appeal. Lemon Dulci is my favourite from the line.
The opening is all uplifting citrus freshness, with bergamot, mandarin and, in particular, primofiore lemon essences from southern Italy on show. Shiso leaves and mint add a zesty green element, while notes of orange flower water and apple bring a delicate sweetness to the composition.
It’s the perfect choice when I’m moody AF.
HAPPY DAYS: Dora Baghriche created the Happy Chopard Collection. Image: Firmenich.
HAPPY CHOPARD FELICIA ROSES EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)
Gosh, isn’t this 2018 release pretty, although I didn’t notice it at first after the flamboyance of Love Chopard!
The rose nuances of the notes of pink pepper and raspberry extract are played up in the intro, while pink grapefruit essential oil brings an element of citrus crispness. Notes of Bulgarian rose bud and absolute create a fresh and dewy ambience, with blackcurrant bud absolute adding to the greenery. The drydown is gently woody, with cedarwood essential oil from Alaska, of all places, mingling with the vanilla tones of Brazilian tonka bean.
It all adds up to produce a perfume that’s beautifully natural smelling. Probably all those natural essences.
HAPPY CHOPARD BIGARADIA EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)
The bigarade (or bitter orange) tree has a special place in perfumery. Apart from its fruit, its blossoms, leaves and twigs are steam distilled to produce neroli and petitgrain respectively. This 2018 release makes the most of it in a warm and sunny way.
It opens with the freshness of bitter orange, neroli and petitgrain oils. The effect is uplifting in a tart and green manner. A carrot note adds an element of powderiness. The sun keeps on shining and the composition gets sweeter with the appearance of orange blossom water, Chinese sambac jasmine and honey from Provence. After all that lightness, it’s the turn of Indonesian patchouli and cistus labdanum to bring earthy depth to the composition.
This is immensely likeable stuff!
Chopard fragrances are available in South Africa at Edgars and Truworths.
What a lovely article Richard. Your insights are profound and I look forward to trying some of these fragrances. I’m particularly intrigued by the Black Intense Malaki. Thank you
Hello, dear Claire, and thank you so much. Not sure about “profound”, but I’m certain this brand is well worth exploring.
Great overview, Rich. They all sound fantastic. I need to delve into this brand more myself.
Many thanks, dear Daniel. I’m impressed with the quality of the Chopards I’ve tried so far. Definitely worth trying for yourself.