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Simple Pleasures: The Best Uncomplicated Fragrances

Uncomplicated Fragrances

Who says perfumes must be complex to be good? The best uncomplicated fragrances rely on simple compositions in which it’s possible to pick up most of the listed notes.

This doesn’t mean there’s less technical and creative expertise involved in producing these uncomplicated fragrances. If anything, it takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.

“It takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.”

Uncomplicated Fragrances

SIMPLE ENOUGH: French brand Berdoues is particularly good at uncomplicated fragrances.

Here’s my selection of the best uncomplicated fragrances. The perfect antidote to our over-stimulated times.

Do you have any favourite uncomplicated fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE LE PARFUM EDP INTENSE (QUENTIN BISCH & NATHALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Launched in 1995, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. 50+ flankers and limited editions later, Le Male Le Parfum was released in 2020 to celebrate its 25th anniversary. More streamlined than the original, one might even call him mature.

This EDP (the parfum bit must be for marketing purposes) opens with the sweet spice of cardamom. Aromatic lavender is given a powdery vibe thanks to iris, while vanilla cosies up with woody notes in the drydown.

Staying true to the original with its prominent accents of lavender and vanilla, it’s very likeable in a warm and sensual oriental style.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Frédéric Malle describes Cologne Indélébile as “erotic naiveté”. Only the French could get away with such language. What I do know is that this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house makes me feel incredibly calm and refreshed.

Opening all fresh, citrusy and green with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain, it isn’t a reinvention of the classic cologne format. There’s no need for that. The florals of orange blossom and narcissus maintain the crisp feel, while tempering the initial sharpness.

Colognes are often things of fleeting beauty, but an overdose of white musk gives this one more oomph than usual. It also gives this beauty a chic cleanness.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

BERDOUES VÂNIRA MOOREA EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

Something simple? Something a bit exotic? Something that will make you want to smell yourself? Repeatedly. This 2016 release from the Grasse-based company’s travel-inspired Grands Crus Collection will satisfy these needs. And more.

Featuring fresh citrus notes of petitgrain and orange, the opening will draw you in immediately. It’s a bright and sunny island mood (even if you’re stuck behind your PC), with green aspects. And then there’s the vanilla from Moorea, an island near Tahiti. It’s smooth, creamy and tropical, without being too sticky sweet. Delicious stuff!

I also recommend other simple pleasures from this brand, such as Maasaï Mara and Selva do Brazil.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

HERMÈS UN JARDIN SUR LA LAGUNE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’m all for fragrances that take me to special places in these Covid-limiting times. And Hermès Un Jardin Sur La Lagune does that in understated style.

For the most recent addition to the Gardens Collection (2019), the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel took inspiration from a secret garden in a Venice lagoon.

Its white florals (magnolia, lily and pittosporum) have a subtly sweet scent. In the background there’s a marine accord, with a soupçon of salt, adding to the freshness. Settling on a woody base, this unisex EDT is relaxing and dreamy. Couldn’t ask for more right now.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE)

Diptyque excels at perfumes that smell wonderfully natural. And this 1988 release is a prime example. It takes its inspiration from the lush smells emanating from Venetian gardens during summer evenings.

That mood begins in opulent style with notes of narcissus and honeysuckle. It’s floral, but with green accents. The fresh floral theme continues with notes of wisteria and jasmine, without tipping into unbearable sweetness.

It’s an olfactory invite to get lost in it all and with a perfume this good, how could you refuse?

Uncomplicated Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families.

The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan. In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

I also rate Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George from the same range.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

HUGO BOSS HUGO REVERSED EDT

Hugo Boss fragrances have been about zesty freshness since the launch of the original in 1995, and this 2018 release fits the pattern.

Probably the best flanker from the range, it opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a hint of clean vetiver.

This no-frills, but surprisingly versatile scent is primarily aimed at young men but is too good not to try for yourself if you’re from an older demographic. Points for the graphic flacon too.

Image: Hugo Boss.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE THIS IS LOVE! FOR HIM EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

I’ve had a soft spot for Zadig & Voltaire releases for quite some time and can’t recommend them enough for their terrific value. This 2020 release affirms why the French rock-chic fashion label gets it right.

Fresh bergamot opens this EDT. It’s followed by a note of sunshine-kissed orange blossom. But it’s the big dose of warm and creamy sandalwood in the drydown that wraps up this creation rather nicely.

It’s as deceptively simple as 1, 2 , 3, but oh so effective and sensual.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron. A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental ambience.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)

I’m always keen to try Escentric Molecules fragrances to learn more about the chemistry of perfumery. Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 showcases the aroma-molecule Cashmeran (also known as cashmere wood or blond woods).

This synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least. It can be found in everything from Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras to Maison Martin Margiela By The Fireplace. With its musky and woody qualities, there’s a good reason why it’s such an essential part of any perfumer’s toolkit. On its own in this 2020 release, there’s lots of dry cosiness, with a gentle sweetness.

Thanks for the lesson, Mr Schoen. Fascinating, as always.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The latest addition (2020) to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet to the vegan formula, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Esteemed French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian can always be relied upon to produce elegant, timeless scents. This year, he released cologne forte (strong) versions of the best-selling unisex Aqua range: Universalis, Celestia and Vitae.

All three are worth sniffing out, but Aqua Celestia Cologne Forte (pictured below, right) stands out with its seeming effortlessness.

The opening is on the tart side, with the citrus hues of bergamot at the fore. But not for long, as the fruitiness of blackcurrant, mimosa and jasmine notes come into play. The fruitiness continues through to the musky and powdery drydown.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

*These best uncomplicated fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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One Way Bridge Perfumes: An Interview With Founder Elise Welraven – “I Literally Bottle All My Feelings”

One Way Bridge Perfumes

Image: One Way Bridge Perfumes.

For all its faults, Instagram is an unrivalled way to connect with perfumer lovers and creators around the world. It’s how I first came to know Elise Welraven (pictured, below), founder of One Way Bridge Perfumes.

One Way Bridge Perfumes

Image: Courtesy of Elise Welraven.

When we first started following each other, we both shared our love of perfumes and she hadn’t set up her company yet. It was a wonderful surprise when she sent me samples of her launch fragrances. Partly, because the South African postal system is notoriously slow and theft-prone, but mostly because her quality extraits are so rich and unique.

One Way Bridge Perfumes

In this interview, Elise describes her creations as “brutal”. At first, I thought that was a strange way to describe them. But having revisited them recently, I know what she means now. They’re unfiltered, unrefined, rough around the edges and highly expressive.

Please refresh my memory: when did we start communicating via IG? I remember your farm home renovation pics from your personal account.

We started following each other on Instagram at the end of 2017. I hadn’t launched One Way Bridge yet and you would have known me on my personal account which no longer exists.

Let’s get the obvious question out of the way: what’s the significance of the name of your company, One Way Bridge?

I wanted to name it something really “Kiwiana”. In New Zealand we are known for our silly one-lane bridges where, of course, only one car can go one way at a time. On a personal level, life should be lived like a one-way bridge: no matter what happens, you need to find a way to keep going forward.

One Way Bridge Perfumes

All Other Images: One Way Bridge Perfumes.

Your approach, from the design of the bottles to the names and moods of your fragrances, is refreshingly different. Why does the vintage aesthetic appeal so much to you?

Vintage speaks to my soul. There’s a lot of depth to vintage. The people from back then were so passionate, so intense. That’s how life should be lived, as you can tell from the brutality of my fragrances.

“That’s how life should be lived, as you can tell from the brutality of my fragrances.”

Is your New Zealand background also an important part of your approach?

Very much so. There are so many beautiful native ingredients we have here, which no one else has access to. I feel so privileged to be able to showcase them in my art.

How’s business been since launch? Is it your sole focus?

Business was going amazingly well and then Covid hit. I was able to get my perfumes around the world through travel. Unfortunately, now, that isn’t an option.

One Way Bridge Perfumes

NATIVE: One of the ingredients in One Way Bridge Perfumes is totara extract, from the tree endemic to New Zealand. 

One Way Bridge has officially become my sole focus. Going in and out of lockdowns has made it hard to keep a job. Seeing as the demand was there for my art, I figured the easiest way to avoid all of that was to work for myself.

Can you keep up with the demand?

It is currently a bit harder to keep up with demand, as the shipping from certain destinations for certain ingredients has been significantly delayed due to Covid. So it has taken longer to produce a batch.

Moving on to the more technical and creative aspects: did you study perfumery, or are you self-taught?

I am completely self-taught, with 16 years of self-learning to get me to where I am today.

I know there are people that disapprove and say you can’t really call yourself a perfumer if you haven’t had formal training. And that’s okay with me. My perfume is my art – straight from my heart and soul. I’ve learned my own style and I like that I can perfume without boundaries.

“My perfume is straight from my heart and soul. I’ve learned my own style and I like that I can perfume without boundaries.”

One Way Bridge Perfumes

How would you describe yourself as a perfumer?

This is a hard question. It’s a bit like when you first meet someone and they say, “So tell me about yourself.” If I had to answer that in one word, it would be emotional. I literally bottle my feelings.

From reading the stories behind the fragrances and wearing them, it seems you’re using quite expensive and/or exotic ingredients (some of them unique to New Zealand, for example Kumerahou, Totara and ambergris)….

I do – I never skimp on ingredients. I don’t care how much it costs me. Once I have inspiration, the piece of art must be created.

One Way Bridge Perfumes

GOLD: Amber kauri resin, one of the precious ingredients used by Elise Welraven.

Top Shelf is potent stuff in a very animalic way. It almost has a dirty, urinary aspect to it, and I mean that in a good way…

Top Shelf is my classy cowboy. A hunk with a dirty edge, addictive.

Stout ‘n’ Smoke is superb. How did you go about creating it?

I wanted to bottle a barmaid’s kiss after a shot of whiskey, the patron’s tobacco smoke and her own lipstick. I love whiskey and I wanted to create a boozy scent that wasn’t sweet like all the rest out there.

Does inspiration come easily to you?

I will say yes, because inspiration is based on my feelings, emotions and imagination.

What are you working on now?

I recently launched a new scent called Wildjoy, inspired by the forest on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The notes are kauri and cannabis.

On the day of launch, I also announced something I’ve been working on for two years: a 60ml Solid State Extrait de Parfum eco line. This is created using a base of all-natural New Zealand oils and plant waxes and my fragrance oils. It comes packaged in a 100% recyclable cardboard push-up tube, sealed with a recyclable label. The entire product is waste free, recyclable, kind to skin and convenient for travel. Solid perfumes last longer as they contain no ingredients that evaporate.

It truly is New Zealand goodness at its best and I like to think the way I’ve been able to present it as “eco” or “green beauty” makes it “perfume re-imagined and refashioned”.

Visit the One Way Bridge website here.  

Read my thoughts on the One Way Bridge samples I received on my Instagram page. 

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Bruno Jovanovic Interview: “It Took 12 Years To Find A Brand That Would Dare Going With Such A Provocative Idea”

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Firmenich.

You know you’re a highly regarded perfumer when Frédéric Malle gives you his customary carte blanche to create a fragrance for his eponymous brand. Three times. Only the select few – for example, Jean-Claude Ellena and Dominique Ropion – have been acknowledged this way. But then Bruno Jovanovic is not your average perfumer.

The abundant creative and technical talents of Bruno Jovanovic were nurtured by the industry’s greats as a student and young perfumer. They helped the Parisian make his mark early in his career with the modern classic Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce Cologne (2002). This was followed by other designer, niche and celebrity standouts such as:

  • Calvin Klein CK IN2U For Her and Him EDT (2007)
  • Paco Rabanne Lady Million EDP (2010)
  • Chopard Mille Miglia EDP (2013)
  • Sofia Vergara Sofia EDP (2014)
  • Hugo Boss The Scent EDT (2015)
  • Masque Milano Times Square EDP (2017)
  • Coach For Men EDT (2017)
  • Amouage Rose Incense EDP (2019)
Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Amouage.

Most recently, he produced Giorgio Armani My Way EDP (2020) and Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Le Parfum EDP (2021).

I caught up with Bruno Jovanovic on the influence of his mother, mentors and marijuana.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

You caught me at work, I don’t wear any fragrance when I am working. It’s too disturbing – my nose needs to stay sharp! When I am not working, I like to wear what I am working on at the moment. It’s critical to wear your fragrances to know how they behave in usage.

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Paco Rabanne.

When did you know you wanted to become a perfumer?

I must have been around six years old. I didn’t know what a perfumer was; all I knew was I wanted to create my own perfumes. I had no idea how to get there, but then again, at that age, I knew I had time to figure it out.

My mother has always been a fragrance lover and I guess the little boy wanted to make sure she would never run out of them!

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Coach.

Have you ever doubted that decision?

At some point I did. People know how difficult it is to get into the world of fragrances. And my friends didn’t want me to get hurt. So doubts started appearing. But very quickly, I decided I had to try as I couldn’t even bear to think of doing something else. I am glad I did.

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Hugo Boss.

Where did you study? Did you have a mentor?

I worked hard to join the ISIPCA (International Higher Institute of Perfume, Cosmetics and Food Aromatics) in Versailles, France. It was a wonderful opportunity to enter that very closed world and to meet lots of perfumers who became mentors.

“It was a wonderful opportunity to enter that very closed world and to meet lots of perfumers who became mentors.” – Bruno Jovanovic

My first mentor was Raymond Chaillan [co-creator of Yves Saint Laurent Opium EDP], a remarkable perfumer and teacher who taught me my first steps as a creator. Then I met Dominique Ropion [Mugler Alien EDP], who was teaching at the school, and Olivier Cresp [Mugler Angel EDP, pictured below], who I was lucky to be able to team with on the elaboration of the school’s end-of-year project.

Image: Firmenich.

When I moved to the US [to work for International Flavors & Fragrances], I was mentored by Sophia Grojsman [Lancôme Trésor EDP] and Carlos Benaïm [Ralph Lauren Polo EDT]. Coming back to Paris, I teamed up with Dominique again and Anne Flipo [YSL Libre EDP, pictured below].

When I look back, I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to work with and learn from all these giants.

What was your debut creation? And how do you feel about it now?

The first real win was in collaboration with Carlos Benaïm and Christophe Laudamiel for Fierce by Abercrombie & Fitch. We were immensely proud of it and lucky to see it become a classic. The three of us are even more proud of it now than back in 2004.

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Abercrombie & Fitch.

How would you describe your perfume style and formulas?

I like to work in a quite simple way. My fragrances must have a strong but simple message. The point is not to confuse people with a myriad of ingredients. I like my formulae to be precise and concise. This is the recipe for signature and lasting character.

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Frédéric Malle.

You’ve created three fragrances for Frédéric Malle – Dries Van Noten, Monsieur and Dans Mon Lit. Did these prestigious projects come with added pressure?

Frédéric Malle is all about luxury. He has the deepest understanding of it, and it shows in the way he works. He gives us the luxury to remove all pressure. Developing a fragrance with him is all about taking our time and sharing emotions, thoughts and ideas. It’s all about beauty.

Bruno Jovanovic

Giorgio Armani My Way was another high-profile co-creation of yours with Carlos Benaïm. Were you given a tight brief, or did you have relative creative freedom?

We were quite free in the development of the fragrance. From the beginning, we wanted a white floral bouquet revolving around tuberose. Once that was accepted by the Armani team, we were given the freedom to try literally thousands of different ideas to wrap the bouquet. This led to thousands of adjustments and modifications over five full years.

Bruno Jovanovic

Your 2021 co-creation [with Fanny Bal and Nicolas Beaulieu), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Le Parfum, is notable for its cannabis facet. How did you go about creating it?

I created that fragrance in 2008 but it was deemed too daring back then. I wanted to illustrate the idea of something illicit that could turn “legal” as soon as it became a fragrance. Obviously, the note never contained anything “illegal” but even simply mentioning it was considered too much. It took 12 years to find a brand that would dare going with such a provocative idea.

Bruno Jovanovic

Image: Carolina Herrera.

Have you ever had big differences with a client about a perfume project and how was that resolved?

Not really. Discussion and communication can fix anything.

Do you ever read reviews of your creations? Do they matter to you?

Sometimes I do because you can always learn. I tend not to pay too much attention, though, because the reviewers don’t know what went on during years of development and that is completely normal.

Bruno Jovanovic

What are you working on now?

Obviously, I can’t tell as it must remain confidential. But I could tell you that the incredible palette of ingredients at Firmenich is awakening new olfactive obsessions.

Frédéric Malle Dans Mon Lit, Frédéric Malle Monsieur EDP and Frédéric Malle Dries Van Noten EDP are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

 

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Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP Review

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

With the enigmatic and visionary Rei Kawakubo as creative director of the Paris-based fashion brand (she would never call her creations “fashion”), Comme des Garçons fragrances could never be ordinary. The eponymous EDP (pictured, below) established the company’s unconventional approach to perfumery in a big and spicy way in 1994. More than twenty-five years later, Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP arrived on the market.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

Both designer and niche, the company has had its fair share of ups and downs over the decades. This is to be expected when releases range from the downright anti-perfumes such as Series 6: Synthetic Garage EDT (2004), with its kerosene smell, to the more approachable Floriental EDP (2015).

Does Comme des Garçons Rouge live up to the brand’s creative and innovative reputation?

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE PERFUMER

Born and raised in Grasse, France, the award-winning Nathalie Gracia-Cetto (pictured, above) has earned praise for her designer and niche creations. These include Fragrance du Bois Oud Jaune Intense Parfum (2013), Ex Nihilo Love Shot EDP (2016), Tom Ford Soleil Blanc EDP (2016), Rochas Moustache EDP (2018) and Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky EDT (2018).

The pharmacology graduate also created Radish Vetiver EDP for Comme des Garçons’ Clash Collection in 2019, so is familiar with their aesthetic.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

SO WHAT DOES COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE SMELL LIKE?

Beetroot! Yep, the root vegetable stands out in the opening and pretty much throughout the scent’s progression. Its innate earthiness is given a spicy, rosy, slightly sweet twist with a pink peppercorn note. There’s more spice from zesty ginger. Its freshness is enhanced by the Egyptian geranium leaves, with their minty and gently metallic profile.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

The intrigue doesn’t stop there. Incense makes its presence felt, without being overpowering. Its resinous smoke is complemented by the muskiness of patchouli and cistus.

There’s no shortage of fragrances with the word “rouge” in it and packaging to match. But Comme des Garçons Rouge is not just another marketing gimmick and proves the brand has not lost its edge.

While the beetroot is prominent, it’s treated and blended in such a clever way, there’s a good chance, you could love this fragrance even if you normally hate eating the vegetable.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

If you’re looking for something different, but not outrageously experimental, this scent achieves a fine balancing act of pleasing long-time Comme des Garçons fans, while not alienating potential new devotees.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Michelle Feeney Interview: The Floral Street Founder On The Future Of Beauty

Michelle Feeney

In the four years since it was founded in 2017 by Michelle Feeney, Floral Street has bagged a number of awards, including The Fragrance Foundation Retailer of the Year 2019.

“We have proven that you can have fine fragrance, beautiful packaging and long-lasting scents all created in a considered way.” – Michelle Feeney 

Although a small player in the scheme of things, the company has made a big impact with its vibrant, very British approach to vegan, cruelty-free and sustainably produced fragrances. “We have proven that you can have fine fragrance, beautiful packaging and long-lasting scents all created in a considered way,” Michelle Feeney says.

Michelle Feeney

In this Fragroom interview, she talks about the future of beauty, green-washing and their latest partnership with the Van Gogh Museum.

You launched Floral Street in 2017. What changes were you picking up in the market that signalled you were onto something?

I have been privileged to enjoy an amazing career in fashion and beauty, creating and establishing global brands, including Crème de La Mer and St Tropez.

Described as a “cult brander”, I’ve been able to help build cult brand status or utilise elements to connect with an audience in new ways. I spent seven incredible years on MAC Cosmetics in NYC, establishing the fashion outreach globally, accelerating the story of the MAC AIDS Fund and playing a key role in launching in over 40 countries. It was a whirlwind!

Michelle Feeney

However, at age 51, I decided to take a gap year. I had the idea for my own brand but wanted time-out to decide how I would do it and if, indeed, the world needed any more products. I realised that the fragrance industry hadn’t evolved in the same way as other beauty categories and saw a gap in the market for a sustainable, modern brand that offers fine fragrance at an affordable price.

Michelle Feeney

I decided to return to beauty in November 2017, launching my independent, “clean” brand, accessible to all. From the very beginning I wanted to make Floral Street a beacon for change, for it to have meaning and core values of environmental consideration. I wanted to stimulate the industry to take action, as consumers are now demanding this. We have proven that you can have fine fragrance, beautiful packaging and long-lasting scents all created in a considered way.

Michelle Feeney

Why are vegan fragrances so important to you and how do you define them?

When I am asked, “Why did you produce vegan fragrances”, my answer is, “This is the future of beauty”. This is not a trend; it is an absolute. It is about finding the best way to create fabulous products while lowering the impact on our planet.

“This is the future of beauty. This is not a trend; it is an absolute.” – Michelle Feeney 

I am proud we have gained an international accreditation from Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) for being a vegan and cruelty-free brand. This means we do not use any animal-derived materials and no animals have been harmed in the creation of our perfumes. It verifies that we do not conduct or commission any animal tests on ingredients or formulations or finished products.

Michelle Feeney

Does it limit your perfumer Jérôme Epinette’s creative options in any way?

No, not at all. Jerome (pictured, below) is a master perfumer at Robertet, and we have chosen to partner with them because they are a world leader in sustainable, raw materials.

He has a myriad natural ingredients to choose from, plus the incredible fantasy notes and synthetic accords that are created in the lab. This all makes for the most modern fragrances that are good for you and good for the planet.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

Are vegan fragrances the same as natural fragrances?

Natural ingredients are either vegan or they are not. Quite often the world “natural” is misused and some ingredients in fragrances that are regarded as natural can be allergenic.

We do have percentages of natural materials within our vegan Floral Street perfumes but there are also nature-identical ingredients which serve fragrance equally. As a sustainable brand we also use vegan certified oils in our new scented home products.

Michelle Feeney

How can consumers tell if a brand is truly vegan? There must be a lot of brands claiming to be vegan…

As individuals, consumers should delve into the product or the company to ensure they have the correct accreditation and can back up what they say. Some brands do mislead the consumer by using certain words or phrases but as a responsible company we are transparent and open about our practices and certifications.

Michelle Feeney

We educate the consumer and use the globally recognised Peta bunny logo (pictured, below) as we want them to know what they are buying. This makes it clear for our customers, guiding them to make better ethical choices and purchases.

You’re also a sustainable, eco-friendly brand. How do you ensure that’s not greenwashing, from your Covent Garden, London, store to packaging?

Being sustainable is a journey and we face new challenges every day. It’s not just the fragrance that’s involved in being ethical, we consider the whole life cycle and every element that goes into our final products. From the raw materials and how they are processed, to the recyclable packaging and the responsible manufacturing methods and supply chain. From source to scent, we want consumers to know where we come from.

 We apply the 5 R’s to every aspect of our business – rethink, reduce, reuse, repurpose, recycle.

Michelle Feeney

WHAT’S IN STORE: Michelle Feeney in front of the Floral Street shop in Covent Garden, London. Image: floralstreet.com.

We reduce use by having a high 20% concentration of oil in our fragrances. Our glass candle and diffuser vessels can be reused, and we offer a perfume refill service in our Covent Garden, London, store.

Our award-winning, biodegradable pulp fragrance box (pictured, below) can be repurposed to store keepsakes or grow seeds or herbs in and being compostable, if it does end up in land fill, it won’t leave any trace on the environment.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

All our packaging is widely recyclable, and our paperboard is FSC certified and sourced from responsibly managed forests. We carbon balance via the World Land Trust, and our 2020 certificate confirmed we helped to protect over 6 500m² of critically threatened tropical rainforest.

In addition, we partner with those that share our ethos and principles, including global retailers that lead and champion sustainable ways to shop.

“We also partner with global retailers that lead and champion sustainable ways to shop.” –  Michelle Feeney 

Floral Street is all about “powered by flowers” and from all your releases so far, you’re bringing a fresh new spin to this genre. Is there a personal reason for your floral focus?

Every time I look at a flower it makes me smile. They are joyful, don’t cost much to grow or admire and are the universal language of beauty. Our sustainable scent creations are a modern way to experience the beauty of flowers.

Also, our flagship is in the heart of Covent Garden, London, where the original Victorian flower market was situated, so this floral inspiration flows throughout our store and our brand.

Michelle Feeney

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

I read on the website that Floral Street is against the use of sexuality to sell its products. Please tell us more about that.

Having lived through three decades of beauty advertising and having a teenage daughter myself, I just feel that using sex to sell is lazy and outdated. We do not use the word “sex” or “sexy” anywhere in the Floral Street brand. We have established motivational and empowering words to describe our fragrances and individual moods.

“Having lived through three decades of beauty advertising and having a daughter myself, using sex to sell is lazy and outdated.” – Michelle Feeney 

We are an inclusive brand, inspiring our customers to choose a perfume based on the way they feel. We have changed the conversation around scent and offer an experience where people identify with “who they will be today”. Our customers should be their own “celebrity” at the centre of their life.

What’s next for Floral Street?

My vision is for Floral Street to become a “clean” lifestyle brand. I strongly believe that by leading by example you empower others and the more successful your business, the more change you can influence. I want to give consumers the opportunity to feel good and make better choices that bring sustainable beauty to their everyday life.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

We have just launched our ethical and vegan collections of candles and diffusers, which has taken our eco-credentials and joyful approach into the home. When we were developing them, I realised what we don’t put in is just as important as what we do put in, so we have taken out all harmful elements. This enables the sustainable fine fragrance to shine though so you can “bloom wherever you are”.

Using scent within different spaces can make you feel good and better about life. It’s about self-care and creating the right “mood,” reflecting how you want to feel.

IMAGE: floralstreet.com

Partnerships are also important if you are a small brand. By connecting with others and being part of bigger movements or collaborations, you can tell your story in new and different ways.

As an independent, British brand I was honoured when we were recently chosen as the first fragrance partner of the internationally renowned Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

This four-year partnership enables us to connect with a diverse audience globally in appreciation of fine art and fine fragrance. Our first launch is Sunflower Pop, inspired by Van Gogh’s famous Sunflowers masterpiece and his citation “If one truly loves nature, one finds beauty everywhere.”

Michelle Feeney

IMAGE: floralstreet.com.

Floral Street is available in South Africa at Woolworths and ARC Store.

For more on vegan fragrances, see my recent post.

 

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Chopard Fragrances Overview: Love Chopard EDP + Black Incense Malaki EDP + Oud Malaki EDP + Happy Chopard Collection

Chopard Fragrances

Chopard fragrances were recently launched in South Africa, and I was fortunate to be on the receiving end of several of their releases. While I’m familiar with the olfactory offerings from other luxury jewellery and watch brands (for example, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Cartier), it’s my first time with Chopard.

Image: chopard.com.

The Swiss company founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard (pictured,  above) in 1860 has been in the fragrance biz since the 1980s. Earlier classic releases, Chopard Happy Diamonds (1986) and Chopard Casmir (1992), have been discontinued. But judging from the perfumes I received, the company has more than enough quality current scents to go around.

Image: Fragrantica.

“Sustainability” is often just a corporate buzzword, but from the admirably detailed product info, Chopard seems to be doing more than most to ensure their fragrances meet their “do good, feel good” philosophy. The brand emphasises its commitment to responsibly and ethically sourced ingredients (many of them naturals) from certified partners.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included after the name of the fragrance in this Chopard overview.

JOIE DE VIVRE: Julia Roberts is the face of the Chopard Happy Diamonds Collection. Image: chopard.com.

CHOPARD LOVE CHOPARD EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Another day, another rose perfume… Not quite. While this recent (2020) release is a take on the queen of florals, it’s sufficiently different and multifaceted enough to stand out in the crowded category.

Chopard Fragrances

Billed as the company’s glamorous tribute to roses à la the Cannes Film Festival Red Carpet (Chopard is an official partner of the event), it’s roses from top to bottom. Various essences were used to create this EDP, including Turkish rose infusion, Bulgarian rose oil, Moroccan centifolia rose absolute and rose damascena absolute from Turkey.

Image: chopard.com.

It starts out fresh and dewy, with hints of pink pepper and cinnamon in the background. Bravo to the brand for admitting to the use of the synthetic rose molecule Roseolate, with its fruity nuances. It gets spicier and warmer as the fragrance progresses, with notes of jasmine sambac and orange blossom adding to the richness. There’s a lot going on in the gourmand drydown, in which earthy patchouli meets notes of honey, cacao and vanilla.

The result? Sweet, over-the-top sophistication. And I mean that in a good way.

Chopard Fragrances

CHOPARD BLACK INCENSE MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Wowzers! Inspired by the ancient tradition of royal frankincense, the most recent addition to the brand’s Middle East-inspired Malaki Collection (2020) is standout stuff. Some people might even use the dreaded phrase, “niche quality”, to describe it.

The fresh aromatics of lavandin oil from France is distinctive among the various spices of the opening. There’s then plenty more spice of the smoky and resinous frankincense kind, courtesy of the essential oil sourced from family-owned company Neo Botanika in Somaliland.

Chopard Fragrances

Perfume geek alert! It’s given a leather-licious feel thanks to “a pyrogenation process [which] sublimates the original note”, according to Firmenich. I’m not quite sure what that means, but the effect is intoxicatingly dark and potent. The dense drydown sees Indonesian patchouli taking the lead, with its earthy and musky properties.

Alberto Morillas (pictured, below) might be the most prolific perfumer in the biz, but he has not lost his touch.

Image: Firmenich.

CHOPARD OUD MALAKI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

From Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Mugler Alien EDP to Elie Saab Girl of Now EDP and YSL Y EDP, Dominique Ropion (pictured, below) gets the balance between creative and commercial success just right. This 2012 release from the Malaki Collection exemplifies this approach. Let’s get the obvious out of the way first. At the price, this is definitely not a “real” oud, but Ropion masterfully creates a damn fine approximation.

Chopard Fragrances

Featuring notes of grapefruit, lavender and artemisia, the opening is brisk and fresh. The temperature increases with a combo of caramel-y tobacco and spice. The synthetic oud is quality stuff and captures the warm and sweet muskiness of the precious ingredient in an accessible style. It’s accentuated by synthetic ambergris and wood notes.

Don’t let all this talk of synthetics – the backbone of modern perfumery – put you off this EDP. They’re used in the right way, so you wouldn’t even know the difference.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY CHOPARD LEMON DUCLI EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

The Happy Chopard Collection was launched in 2018 and takes its cue from the scientific research on the link between feel-good scents and their influence on mood. Although not marketed as such, it has a younger feel than the other Chopard ranges, but has broad appeal. Lemon Dulci is my favourite from the line.

Chopard Fragrances

The opening is all uplifting citrus freshness, with bergamot, mandarin and, in particular, primofiore lemon essences from southern Italy on show. Shiso leaves and mint add a zesty green element, while notes of orange flower water and apple bring a delicate sweetness to the composition.

It’s the perfect choice when I’m moody AF.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY DAYS: Dora Baghriche created the Happy Chopard Collection. Image: Firmenich.

HAPPY CHOPARD FELICIA ROSES EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

Gosh, isn’t this 2018 release pretty, although I didn’t notice it at first after the flamboyance of Love Chopard!

The rose nuances of the notes of pink pepper and raspberry extract are played up in the intro, while pink grapefruit essential oil brings an element of citrus crispness. Notes of Bulgarian rose bud and absolute create a fresh and dewy ambience, with blackcurrant bud absolute adding to the greenery. The drydown is gently woody, with cedarwood essential oil from Alaska, of all places, mingling with the vanilla tones of Brazilian tonka bean.

It all adds up to produce a perfume that’s beautifully natural smelling. Probably all those natural essences.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY CHOPARD BIGARADIA EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

The bigarade (or bitter orange) tree has a special place in perfumery. Apart from its fruit, its blossoms, leaves and twigs are steam distilled to produce neroli and petitgrain respectively. This 2018 release makes the most of it in a warm and sunny way.

Chopard Fragrances

It opens with the freshness of bitter orange, neroli and petitgrain oils. The effect is uplifting in a tart and green manner. A carrot note adds an element of powderiness. The sun keeps on shining and the composition gets sweeter with the appearance of orange blossom water, Chinese sambac jasmine and honey from Provence. After all that lightness, it’s the turn of Indonesian patchouli and cistus labdanum to bring earthy depth to the composition.

This is immensely likeable stuff!

Chopard fragrances are available in South Africa at Edgars and Truworths.

 

 

 

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Vegan Fragrances 101: Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP + Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP Reviews

Vegan Fragrances

A walk down the aisles of your local supermarket will confirm that veganism (and a part- or full-time commitment to a plant-based diet) is now completely mainstream. So it was just a matter of time before vegan fragrances became a thing.

Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.

“Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.”

Two brands – Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn – were recently launched in South Africa. Both focus on vegan fragrances for those who’re increasingly concerned about the ethical and environmental consequences of their consumption.

Vegan Fragrances

Personally, I have no issue with the use of beeswax or honey when they are sourced responsibly and sustainably. And I would gladly wear a perfume containing ambergris, the precious ingredient secreted by sperm whales. It becomes a bit murkier with the use of animalic notes like civet, which were at one stage an integral part of classics such as Chanel Coco, Danu Tabu and YSL Kouros.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: woolworths.co.za.

I did a bit of quick research and discovered that leading South African retailer Woolworths has an extensive selection of vegan fragrances in its WBeauty range. According to Totally Vegan Buzz, vegan-friendly brands include Lush, Le Labo, Clean, Stella McCartney, Gallivant and Eden. I also noticed that in its marketing for cK Everyone, Calvin Klein gives a lot of attention to its vegan formula.

Vegan Fragrances

Two things to note:

  • If vegan fragrances are important to you, do your homework regarding the legitimacy of a brand’s claims. For example, have they been certified by an organisation such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta)?
  • Just because a brand isn’t vegan doesn’t mean it condones cruelty to animals.

And now onto the reviews of these two vegan fragrances that have recently caught my nose.

ELLIS BROOKLYN MYTH EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

This NYC-based company was founded by New York Times beauty columnist Bee Shapiro (pictured, below) in 2015 after she gave birth to her first child and became serious about “clean” beauty.

Vegan Fragrances

Myth was part of the brand’s launch range and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of their best sellers.

It opens with a silky-sleek waft of powdery ambrette, the naturally derived musk, supported by notes of green cassis and crisp bergamot. The trio of florals that follows – tiger orchid, pink lotus, jasmine petals – is pretty indeed, in an airy, fresh and delicately sweet style. The drydown is sensually soft, with notes of white musk, patchouli and white cedar.

This eminently likeable scent is compliment-bait, if that’s a part of your purchasing decision. But most importantly, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance.

Vegan Fragrances

All Ellis Brooklyn fragrances are paraben-, phthalates- and cruelty-free, and Peta–certified vegan. They come in glass bottles from an Ecocert supplier and the Bakelite caps are made without the use of petroleum or its byproducts. – Brand website.

FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

The founder of this British brand, Michelle Feeney (pictured, below) , comes with major credentials. Before launching her company in 2017, she worked in senior roles for La Mer, MAC Cosmetics and St Tropez, among others.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: floralstreet.com.

As its name and pay-off line (“powered by flowers”) will tell you, all their fragrances have a floral focus.

Although Arizona Bloom, a Fragrance Foundation 2021 Awards finalist, is inspired by an arid landscape, it puts me in a holiday mood every time I wear it. That must be the creamy vanilla-ish Balinese coconut, with a hint of warm Madagascan black pepper, in the intro. Jasmine, fresh and honeyed, adds to the sunny vacay vibe, the sweetness tempered by a salty musk accord and oakmoss as it dries down.

Vegan Fragrances

All Floral Street packaging is reusable, recyclable or biodegradable. Vegan and cruelty-free, they’re certified by Peta. Each fragrance comes inside a pulp carton with an embossed lid, made from recyclable paper packaging and held together with a re-usable band. This eco-friendly box can be repurposed to hold keepsakes, herbal teas, jewellery or as a seed tray for plants and herbs. – Brand website.

Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn products (fragrances, candles, bath and body) are available at Woolworths.

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Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue 20th Anniversary: An Interview With Its Creator, Olivier Cresp

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: Firmenich.

Even those with only a passing interest in fragrance will have heard of Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue. Launched in 2001, its evocation of the sun, sea and sensuality of a southern Italy summer has been a huge commercial success for the luxury fashion brand.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

A large part of its success is down to the expertise of Olivier Cresp. The French master perfumer has produced hits such as Givenchy Ange ou Demon (2006), Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling (2011), Versace Eros Pour Femme (2014) and YSL Mon Paris (2016). And let’s not forget the ground-breaking Mugler Angel, which kick-started all things gourmand in 1992.

Cresp was recognised for his numerous accomplishments when The Fragrance Foundation gave him the Lifetime Achievement Award in 2018.

He talks to Fragroom about Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue’s popularity, powerful formula and the latest iteration, Light Blue Forever.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Congratulations on the 20th anniversary of Light Blue. Why does it have such enduring appeal?

Thank you. I’m very proud to have created Light Blue.

The fragrance’s concept is universal: love. I am a romantic at heart; eternal love has always enchanted me. It did when I first created Light Blue in 2001 and it continues to mesmerise me today.

“It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is.”

It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is: the first look, kiss and moments together, as well as the milestones that come later: anniversaries, children and grandchildren. Timeless and contemporary, Light Blue has adapted to every generation over time.

Its popularity is linked with its luminosity and freshness. There’s something about Italy and, in particular, Sicily, a place of importance to the Dolce & Gabbana creators [Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana].

SOMETHING ABOUT SICILY: The Italian island is a place of importance to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Image: visitsicily.com.

Did you know you were onto a winner when you created it?

As perfumers, we never really know what’s going to be a great success. That said, Light Blue is one of my favourite creations and I have always believed in its power.

In some ways, Light Blue is a victim of its own success, because it’s so popular and therefore some people automatically dislike it. Does that bother you at all?

As soon as we started testing Light Blue, people’s reactions were nothing but positive; perhaps something about sharing this idea of love has created that effect.

I’ve never seen anyone reject this fragrance; it’s not a polarising one. In fact, I wear it often as it fits well on my skin, and I know other men wear it as well.

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

Light Blue is a great example of the use of synthetics and naturals. tell us more about that.

The fragrance has a powerful but minimalist formula. It’s composed of 25 ingredients, including a natural overdose of 10% lemon essence.

Featuring some wonderful captive molecules from Firmenich [the company he works for], the fragrance can be imitated, but never perfectly reproduced: woods, musks, amber and jasmine floral notes, as well as a crunchy Granny Smith apple. Without this harmony, the deep sensuality and unique light in Light Blue could not exist.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

The naturalness of the ingredients are prolonged by the innovative molecules. Together, the olfactive lightness gives you an infinite sensation of bright sunlight, crystal water, tanned skin and intense heat.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

SUN, SEA AND SKIN: Bianca Balti and David Gandy in the Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue ad. Image: dolcegabbana.com.

There’s been no shortage of flankers over the years. How did you approach the creation of Light Blue Forever to ensure it stays faithful to the original while offering something new?

I captured the joie de vivre and Mediterranean sensuality of Light Blue, and I enhanced the pillars of the perfume as if to multiply them tenfold: the essence of lemon, the apple, the white floral bouquet and the cedar. These are the olfactive threads that prolong eternal love in Light Blue.

For Light Blue Forever for Her, I insisted on the solar facets of the original fragrance, through both sparkling and luminous notes. I reinforced the floral heart with orange blossom to make it bloom bigger, without making it too dense or heavy.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

Finally, I used the latest generation of woods and musks to elevate and anchor the sparkling notes of the fragrance, enveloping the Light Blue signature with a contemporary sensual touch.

I wanted to make it very luminous and solar, inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and the orange blossoms found all along the coast. While there are still the lemony apple notes, the main accord is the orange blossom which brings strength, modernity, solar luminosity and warmth.

Did you have carte blanche in its creation, or was it a tight brief?

When we got the marketing brief from D&G, I did have carte blanche.  However, I don’t start from scratch because I must work from the original Light Blue.

“It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story.”

It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story. How do you improve eternal love?

The overall addictive sensation of Light Blue Forever, shaped around warm and multisensorial notes, is more universal, without crossing into gourmand territory.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

What’s next for Light Blue?

There is always another story of love to share. In fact, I am already working on the next one, but it must remain secret for the time being. However, I can tell you that even the next one will always be connected to the Light Blue masterpiece.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense and Dolce & Gabbana Light Forever EDP are available at Woolworths.

 

 

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Hermès H24 EDT Review: Nature Meets Sensual Metal

Hermès H24 EDT

I don’t like making grand announcements, especially when we’re only half-way through the year. But it’s a pretty safe bet to declare that Hermès H24 is the most anticipated release of 2021.

It’s the French luxury goods company’s first brand-new male fragrance since the award-winning Terre d’ Hermès. That 2006 release created by Jean-Claude Ellena went onto become a modern classic. It re-affirmed the house’s reputation for top quality. So expectations of Hermès H24 are massive, to say the least.

Hermès H24 EDT

Christine Nagel succeeded Ellena as the in-house perfumer in 2016. Since then, she has produced standouts such as Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, Twilly d’Hermès and Galop d’Hermès for the brand.

For the creation of Hermès H24, the Swiss perfumer (pictured, below) wanted a blend of nature (botanicals) and technology (man-made molecules). “I had to open up other, less predictable paths, to move away from the conventional woodiness of men’s scents,” she says.

The notion of nature meeting technology is evident from the grey and lime green paper box (100% recycled and recyclable). The aerodynamically shaped glass bottle (refillable and recyclable) designed by Philippe Mouquet (he also designed the Terre d’ Hermès bottle) echoes that theme in typically elegant Hermès style.

SO WHAT DOES HERMÈS H24 SMELL LIKE?

Herbal clary sage (essence and absolute) introduces this EDT. It’s aromatic in a big way, with grassy accents, and makes its way throughout the scent.

Narcissus can be unruly and dominant at the best of times. But in Nagel’s accomplished hands, the absolute version of this floral reveals its crisp, green, slightly bitter, tobacco-ish aspects. Sustainably sourced from Peruvian producers, citrusy rosewood essence builds on the freshness of the narcissus absolute.

Hermès H24 EDT

And now for the definitive (and trickiest part) of the composition – sclarene – a molecule that brings the technological part to the equation. Metallic (in a warm and sensual way), Nagel partly chose this note due to its evocation of hot irons in the Hermès sewing workshops. It’s certainly intriguing but will not be to everyone’s liking.

Hermès H24 EDT

And perhaps that’s the point of this brave release. It’s not going to be an immediate pleaser or classic like Terre d’Hermès. In fact, it might take some time to come around to it, especially with the dominance of the clary sage. So best give it time to develop on your skin to appreciate all its facets.

Hermès H24 EDT is available at Woolworths.

 

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CHANEL NO 5 CENTENARY: THE JUICE ON AN ICON

Chanel No 5 Centenary

When a perfume turns 100 years old, you can bet it has a story to tell. And it doesn’t get more convoluted and juicier than Chanel No 5. While The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume by Tilar J Mazzeo (Harper Perennial) was published in 2010, it contains many well-researched insights as we celebrate the Chanel No 5 centenary.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

A cultural historian and wine writer, Mazzeo is the author of books such as The Widow Clicquot (HarperCollins) and Back Lane Wineries of Sonoma, Second Edition (Penguin Random House).

As Mazzeo states in the book’s preface, “Much of what is told and retold about its transformation into an international byword for luxury is the stuff of half-truths, confusion, collective fantasy and sheer invention. Sometimes, the truth that those legends obscure is more fantastic than any fiction.”

Starting with Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood in an orphanage, The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is a must-read for anyone wanting to know more about “le monstre” (the monster), as the perfume is known in the industry.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

AU CONTRAIRE

I don’t want to give away too many of the secrets revealed and the myths debunked by Mazzeo, but for those who want a teaser here goes…

Chanel No 5 was not the first fragrance to make use of aldehydes (that distinction belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or). But it is certainly the most well-known, with its liberal use of these synthetics by Russian-born perfumer Ernest Beaux when he created Chanel’s debut scent.

Neither was it the first designer fragrance. Parisian couturier Paul Poiret got there first with Parfums de Rosine Nuit Persane in 1911.

The formula for Chanel No 5 wasn’t stolen from the laboratory of a company owned by her friend and rival François Coty.

Although the designer had a thing for the number five and named her debut fragrance after it, Chanel No 5 wasn’t officially released on May 5, 1921, the fifth day of the fifth month. It appeared quietly on the shelves of her boutiques but was hugely popular from the outset.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

In fact, because of the demand, in 1924, in return for their manufacturing, distribution and marketing expertise, Coco Chanel signed away the majority control (70%) of the perfume side of her business to the Wertheim brothers, Pierre and Paul, who owned the perfume company Bourjois.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

ICONIC SHAPE: The evolution of the design of the bottle over the decades. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

The formation of Les Parfums Chanel meant she would receive 10% of the profits. With the perfume’s considerable profitability, however, she later came to regret this business decision, which helps explain the dubious legal action against her Jewish investors during the Second World War when the Nazis occupied Paris (see interview below).

Despite all the dirty dealings and numerous law cases, the contract was renegotiated in 1947, whereby in exchange for $350 000, 10% of the profits and 2% of the perfume sales worldwide, she would stop using the number five in any of her marketing.

“Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel.”

Later, in the 1950s, Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel in Paris). But the Wertheimer family would own the rights to the fragrance and fashion businesses. That agreement continues to this day, with Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, Pierre’s grandchildren, running the luxury empire.

Although her partners missed several marketing tricks in the 20s, they showed their business acumen during the war. From their new base in the United States, after escaping from France in 1940, they sent former Guerlain president H. Gregory Thomas on a covert mission to Grasse, France, to source the raw materials needed to produce Chanel No 5. He returned with hundreds of kilos of jasmine and rose concrete.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

INTERVIEW WITH TILAR J MAZZEO

What prompted you to write the book?

I came to the book from the perspective of a wine writer, wondering about the relationship between perfume and wine: both aromatic volatiles in alcohol. What made a great perfume and was it similar to a great wine?

Did you have any preconceptions before you started your research?

The other question of the book for me was: is Chanel No 5 really a great perfume or is it great marketing? I began assuming marketing would be a larger part of the equation.

What were you most surprised to find out in your research?

How disastrous the marketing was in the beginning for this fragrance. For example, they decided to launch Chanel No 5 along with a whole series of other numbered fragrances (Chanel No 2, Chanel No 3). And the ads had all of them in the same bottles. It would have sunk any other fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

PERFUME POSE: Gabrielle Chanel in a campaign for Chanel No 5, photographed by François Kollar for Harper’s Bazaar, USA, in 1937, in her Ritz Hotel apartment. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

How much access did the company give you? And what was their response when the book was published?

I did have access to historical documents at Chanel and the jasmine and rose plantations in Grasse. The perfumers at Chanel were also amazingly generous with their time.

I’m not sure about the maison’s view. I think we agreed about the fragrance. In the beginning we probably saw differently Coco Chanel’s World War Two experience, but I suspect we are not really very far apart on that.

Chanel and her German boyfriend [officer Hans Günther von Dincklage] during the war both claimed they were working as double agents for the British with a man named Canaris, and the historical evidence suggests this is probably true.

“The ‘Aryanization’ lawsuit would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.”

I don’t think Chanel was a Nazi spy. She did definitely have a German boyfriend. She did engage during World War Two in an “Aryanization” lawsuit [unsuccessfully suing for ownership of the company, as it had been abandoned], which would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.

With Chanel No 5 celebrating its centenary this year, there’s no doubt, more than ever, it’s more than a perfume, it’s a cultural icon. Would you be able to highlight the most important factor that contributed to that status? 

Every perfumer I’ve ever spoken with, including many of Chanel’s competitors, all say one thing: as a work of modernist art expressed in fragrance, Chanel No 5 is a masterpiece. It does something amazing as a scent by balancing its aldehydes with deep florals. There is something of the tightrope act in the fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

CHARACTER: Cartoonist Sem paid tribute to the success of Chanel No 5 in 1921.

The story of Chanel No 5 is also the story of Coco Chanel. To describe her as complex would be an understatement… 

Indeed. She starts out life as an orphan in a convent, then moves onto being a cabaret showgirl (from there the “Coco” nickname) and the mistress of a series of wealthy men, becomes a celebrated designer very quickly, launches a popular fragrance but almost immediately gives rights over to another company, and spends the next few decades suing her (Jewish) business partners and dating a German during the occupation of Paris.

Your book doesn’t gloss over the more controversial aspects of Coco Chanel’s attempts to regain control of the fragrance business especially during the Nazi occupation of France. Despite this, how has her mystique been maintained?

History is full of men who behaved badly and remained celebrated as artists and geniuses. Picasso, to take a contemporary of Chanel, was a complete cad. Chanel was both an artist and a genius in her metier and as with Picasso, one must divorce her personal character from her art. Her art, both in fashion and fragrance, is breath-taking.

Your book was published in 2010, 11 years before the centenary. What, if anything, would you add to it now?

The fragrance history in the book remains timely and current. The debate about Chanel and the Second World War has intensified since publication in 2010, and I would add to the book now a more expansive context. I am deeply critical of Chanel’s actions during the war in terms of her “Aryanization” legal actions.

However, I don’t think the facts support some of the arguments that were made after my book was published, which castigate her “horizontal collaboration.” I gave that expanded context in the book I wrote after the one on Chanel, which was about the Ritz Hotel in Paris during the occupation [The Hotel on Place Vendôme (HarperCollins)].

Your personal thoughts on Chanel No 5 as a perfume?

I am blind as a bat and cannot carry a tune, but I am blessed or cursed, depending on the circumstances, with an extremely fine nose. It is hard for anyone with that not to admire Chanel No 5 and to love scents. Chanel No 5 is like admiring or not admiring a 1953 Petrus (though with a very different aromatic profile). But some things are qualitatively brilliant. Chanel No 5 and Shalimar are my go-to classic fragrances. Once you appreciate the technical and artistic genius of those perfumes, it’s difficult not to want to spend time with them.

The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume is available to buy here.