Fragrance Reviews: Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! EDT, Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT, Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Her! EDP, Hugo Reversed EDT, Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Pulse of the Night EDP

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP

I haven’t done one of these designer fragrance round-ups this year. Not that I have lost interest in this category. Far from it. Even with all the predictability, there are always good releases to look out for. Where known, the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PURE MUSC FOR HER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterised by their musky character. Each time I try a new release, I’m impressed by the different twist on the dominant note. This EDP opens with another enchanting display of musk. It’s fresh and green to my nose, yet cosy and comfy at the same time. White florals amplify that effect, while cashmeran adds muskiness and woodiness to the mix. On paper, Pure Musc for Her sounds very simple, but Constant, who has produced a number of fragrances for the brand, gives it a typically elegant treatment. R1 565 for 50ml and R2 180 for 100ml.

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HIM! 2019 EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

Zadig & Voltaire is one of the lower-profile designer fragrance brands. I have tried several releases from the French rock-chic label and I’ve always found them to be of a good quality. This one is fresher take on previous versions, with lemon and grapefruit notes setting the scene. Incense is a big part of the This Is Him! franchise and it weaves its way throughout this EDT. It’s not a hard-core incense note, but very easy on the nose. The smoky effect is complemented by vetiver. There’s also a lot of ambroxan going on in this easy-going scent. R850 for 50ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! 2019 EDT 

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Vetiver is one of my favourite ingredients, so my expectations are high when I try any fragrance that claims to contain it. I’ve tried several Karl Lagerfeld fragrances of varying quality, so I was keen to see how this one measured up to some of my favourites. I generally go for highly distinctive, unashamedly earthy vetivers, but I’ve been enjoying this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through (it’s definitely there), it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. I’ve been wearing this in the middle of a Johannesburg winter, but reckon this one will be at its best in summer. A worthy and well-priced addition to my vetiver collection. R795 for 100ml.

Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT

BENTLEY FOR MEN BLACK EDITION EDP

Some people find the idea of an automotive brand in the fragrance biz a bit bizarre, even unwelcome. But from my experiences with Bentley fragrances in recent years (the luxury brand made its fragrance debut in 2013), I can report that it has produced scents that are well worth exploring if solid masculine-profile smells are your thing. This EDP has a distinctive tangerine, pink pepper and nutmeg notes opening. There’s an earthy patchouli vibe in the middle, which is further developed by incense, moss and tobacco base notes. It strikes a nifty balance between sweet, spicy and woody. R1 395 for 100ml.

Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HER! 2019 EDP (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR AND MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

I had an inkling from the funkily designed bottle that this would be a sweetie – and I wasn’t wrong. But fortunately it’s a sweet fragrance with an interesting twist. It opens with big notes of pear and jasmine and then a chestnut cream note makes it appearance. Sometimes listed notes mean nothing, but I can actually pick up this one. Pity I can’t say the same for the warm sand accord, which sounds wonderful. Nevertheless, it all settles very nicely on a creamy sandalwood and musky ambrette base. Prettiness all round.  R1 110 for 50ml and R1 470 for 100ml.

HUGO BOSS REVERSED EDT

The Hugo range has been in production since 1995 and releases have been marked by their fresh youthfulness. The latest addition is no exception. It opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a soupcon of vetiver. It’s a straightforward, no-frills construction, in which you can actually smell all of the notes, that’s ideal for younger men looking for a spray ‘n go. R895 for 75ml and R1 195 for 125ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW FOREVER EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION & SOPHIE LABBE)

I believe in trying all fragrances that come my way, even if I am evidently not part of a fragrance’s target market. Elie Saab Girl of Now was originally launched in 2017 and must be doing well, as the second flanker, Girl of Now Forever, was launched earlier in 2019. Created by a highly regarded fragrance duo, it’s officially aimed at younger women. This EDP is a glam-girlie confection of lemon zest, raspberry, black currant, almond and vanilla notes. It’s unashamedly sweet and fruity, with a hint of tartness. It’s too sweet for me, but I can smell the appeal of this fun and youthful scent. R925 for 30ml, R1 465 for 50ml and R1 985 for 90ml.

Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP

ISSEY MIYAKE NUIT D’ISSEY PULSE OF THE NIGHT (LOC DONG)

I have a love-hate relationship with Issey Miyake. On the one hand, one of my favourite fragrances from the 90s will always be Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT. But on the other, sometimes the Japanese brand is guilty of a relentless flow of indistinguishable flankers. The latest addition to the Nuit d’Issey range shares some of the woody and leather qualities of the original released in 2014, but it has much to offer in its own right too. The top is dominated by a beautifully smoky kyara incense note, followed by a big blast of patchouli intermingled with amber. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with a touch of sweetness. R1 500 for 100ml.

 

 

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT, Elie Saab In White EDP, Coach Floral EDP, Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum, Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Reviews

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

After an initially slow start to the year, the fragrance counters are starting to get busy with all sorts of new  arrivals. We’ve got a pretty mixed bag here, with John Varvatos Artisan Pure, Elie Saab In White, Coach Floral EDP reviews. Are they worth getting out of bed for?

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT (Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux)

I am a big fan of Flores-Roux’s work for John Varvatos fragrances. There’s always an impressively long list of notes for John Varvatos fragrances and Artisan Pure is no different. Inspired by the lush Xalapa region of Mexico, it opens with a big punch of sunny citrus notes. Then there’s a herbal heart (with a standout Italian orris note) and woody base. It’s deliciously crisp summer freshness in a beautifully designed bottle. R1 225 for 75ml and R1 495 for 125ml.

John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

Coach Floral EDP (Noses: Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège le Garlantezec and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto)

Pretty bottle. Pretty fragrance. While Coach Floral EDP isn’t going to be getting any awards for originality, it’s a very accessible and pleasant fragrance. Heart notes include tea rose, jasmine sambac and gardenia. R795 for 30ml, R1 190 for 50ml and R1 490 for 90ml.

Coach Floral EDP

Elie Saab In White EDP (Nose: Jerôme Di Marino)

I ain’t no blushing bride, but that doesn’t stop me from liking this wedding-inspired fruity-floral-chypre fragrance. It has a lovely creamy quality throughout, with notes that include mandarin essence, blackcurrant bud, jasmine sambac, orange blossom absolute, vanilla and ylang-ylang. R890 for 30ml, R1 410 for 50ml and R1 900 for 90ml.

Elie Saab In White EDP

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui (Noses: Nathalie Lorson and Aurelien Guichard)

Okay, so strictly speaking this is not a new fragrance (Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! was originally launched in 2016). But this limited-edition collaboration with NYC tattoo artist Virginia Elwood is a good reminder why Zadig & Voltaire fragrances are worth sniffing out. Featuring notes of incense, vanilla, pepper and sandalwood, it’s an easy-going and very appealing take on the smoky, woody theme. R475 for 20ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! Capsule Collection EDT Pour Lui

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum (Noses: Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal)

Previous fragrances in the L’Eau d’Issey Pure range have interpreted a drop of dew (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDP) and delicate petals (L’Eau d’Issey Pure EDT). The latest, Nectar de Parfum, is more floral in character. It ventures into sweet territory, with initial stand-out notes of pear, honey and rose. Hallelujah, it’s not the cloying variety and the aquatic element will be very familiar to Issey Miyake fragrance fans. R925 for 30ml, R1 430 for 50ml and R1 820 for 90ml.

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum