Best L’Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances From The Original Niche Pioneer

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

Before niche was even a thing, there was L’Artisan Parfumeur. Fact. With the hype around big-name niche brands, it’s easy to forget the company led the way and has a remarkable selection of classics and more recent releases for those with more discerning tastes. So there was no shortage of options for this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances post.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

After founding the French beauty business Sisley in 1972, Jean-François Laporte went on to create the Paris-based house in 1976. From its first release in 1978, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc, its reputation for innovation and quality was sown.

NEW BUSINESS MODEL: Jean-François Laporte founded the Paris-based house in 1976. IMAGE: Fragrantica.

While its founder is no longer with us and the brand now falls under the umbrella of the Spanish company Puig, it offers excellent value in a market increasingly driven by a race to the top (price).

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances?

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÛRE ET MUSC EDT* (JEAN-FRANÇOIS LAPORTE)

A brand’s debut should set the tone for future releases, and that’s exactly what this 1978 release did in original style. It’s a bona fide musk classic.

It opens with the bright citrus tones of lemon. The herbal aromatics of basil is also discernible. The tart fruitiness of blackberry – then a novelty, but now a staple in perfumery – is enhanced by clean white musks in the drydown, while oakmoss gives it a dash of earthiness.

The 1993 version created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême EDP, with its blackcurrant and blackberry emphasis, is also worth exploring.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

The superb Diptyque Philosykos (1996) is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig fragrances. But credit where it’s due: the first fig fragrance, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same top perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti.

Launched in 1994, this EDT brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green style with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe honeyed fig. A delicious milky, woody ambience is created through a combo of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

What a classic, both in terms of its influence and timeless beauty. The 2004 follow-up, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP, also created by Olivia Giacobetti, presents a more intense, sunnier variation on the original theme.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was released in 1999. A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience.

Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and an amber accord add sweetness to the mix, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this top-notch Olivia Giacobetti creation is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)

While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).

Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.

Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release will tell you all you need to know. The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre EDT, is a standard-setter in the amber category.

Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth.

Old-school glamour at its very best.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note, with its smokiness.

The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence!

Want more delicious olfactory travels? Then hunt down the sadly discontinued L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore EDP. Inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to Istanbul, this 2010 release features accents of fruit, leather, iris and Turkish delight.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu EDT

UNIQUE: Timbuktu is a personal favourite in this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances selection.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This 2006 release is not one of those fragrances.

Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, opens this EDP with its bitter herbaceousness. The aromatic effect is carried through to the heart with the addition of spicy notes such as earthy nutmeg and powdery star anise. It settles on a woody base of pine tree needles and fir balsam notes, with the smoke of incense adding the finishing touch.

Instead of serving an obvious shot of absinthe, it cleverly creates a mood that’s full of intrigue and nuances.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AL OUDH EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2009 release takes its cue from the perfumer’s travels to the Middle East, which partly explains the name of the fragrance.

It opens in powerfully spicy mode – notes of caraway seed and cardamom are prominent in the blend. With the sweet fruit of dates in the air, there’s no doubt you’re in for an oriental treat. I wouldn’t blame you for missing the floral notes, including rose, in the heady mix of resinous oud, smoky incense and sweet ’n spicy myrrh. It gets more complex and dirtier in the drydown with animalic notes of civetone and leather.

It’s exotic stuff, in the best sense of the word, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. If I’m being really fussy, I might have called it L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Spicy Oudh, but that doesn’t take away from its beauty.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CALIGNA EDP* (DORA BAGHRICHE)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier is an undoubted fig fragrance classic and while this 2013 take on the fruit might not be as immediately appealing, it’s still worth sniffing out for its intriguing vibe.

An ode to Grasse (Caligna means “to flirt” in Provencal dialect, according to the brand website), it opens with the gentle sweetness of fig. A large dose of clary sage infuses the scent with fresh herbal muskiness. A softly green interpretation of jasmine leads the way to the drydown featuring the woody aromatics of pine.

It’s not the usual scent but typically L’Artisan Parfumeur in its inspiration and execution.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout.

Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MIRABILIS 60 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

The brand’s La Botanique Collection, with its appropriately shaped bottles, doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. So this 2016 release is my not-so-subtle way of drawing your attention to it.

On paper it’s a seemingly straightforward amber composition, but it casts a mysteriously sensual spell when wearing it. That’s largely due to the olibanum, with its complex facets (from fruity and spicy to resinous). It’s blended with musk, Ambroxan and woody notes to irresistible effect.

Also look out for the range’s Arcana Rosa 9 EDP (thorny rose alert!) and Obscuratio 25 EDP (ylang-ylang meets patchouli), both created by the same perfumer.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur 60 Mirabilis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

L’Artisan Parfumeur added eaux de cologne to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results. Inspired by Claude Monet’s masterpiece Impressionist work, Au Bord de L’Eau takes me away to rural France, albeit fleetingly. It’s an eau de cologne, after all.

So it’s about clean and calming delicacy, from the fresh citrus opening notes of bergamot and lemon intermingled with strokes of herbal rosemary, powdery violet and aromatic cedarwood.

I also recommend Sur l’Herbe Eau de Cologne, inspired by Edouard Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, if you’re looking for a hit of sunny neroli freshness.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR HISTOIRE D’ORANGERS EDP* (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Perfumer Marie Salamagne had the pleasure of visiting the Souss Valley in Morocco, one of the country’s main agricultural regions, and this 2017 release captures that memory with delightful detail.

It opens with the slightly bitter citrus hues of neroli, with the greenery of tea in support. And then onto the star of the scent show: orange blossom, softly sweet and its natural warmth enhanced by white musk and Ambroxan. A touch of nutty tonka bean in the drydown evokes the fruit of the argan tree, which is endemic to Morocco.

Striking a deft balance between freshness and warmth, softness and sensuality, it’s the olfactory equivalent of taking a walk through an orchard on a sunny day.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MANDARINA CORSICA EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

A 2018 gourmand that’s well worth checking out. And this time, we’re in Corsica and in the accomplished hands of perfumer Quentin Bisch. Who could say no?

Inspired by a caramelised mandarin he tasted on the French island as a child, he captures the sensation of this candy by presenting different aspects of the citrus fruit: juicy, zesty and sunny but with more longevity than expected, and given the gourmand factor with notes of caramel and tonka bean.

A note of immortelle, with its sweet honey tones, adds to the edibility of it all, while soft floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom complete the idyllic picture.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CHAMP DE FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE* (ANNE FLIPO)

Did you say light and bright? Then this 2018 addition to the company’s eau de cologne range is calling your name.

It opens with fresh notes of pear and grapefruit, beautifully balanced between soft fruity sweetness and citric bitterness. There’s more freshness from floral notes of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley and white cedar, while musk brings clean powderiness to the drydown,

With its spring inspiration, it’s perfect for those days when only subtle and discreet sophistication will do.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Champ de Fleurs EDC

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MONT DE NARCISSE EDP (ANNE FLIPO)

This 2019 release goes deep and dark, although you wouldn’t expect it from the subdued opening featuring the rosiness of pink pepper, with hints of crisp bergamot and spicy cardamom in the background.

It takes things up a notch with the appearance of a note of narcissus. Reserved at first and then increasingly animalic. Notes of osmanthus and plum bring a fruity aspect.

But what really makes this EDP stand out is the dense drydown with its smoky and sensual leatheriness.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for something dark and mysterious.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR BANA BANANA EDP* (CÉLINE ELLENA)

If you’d asked me a month ago if I’d get a thrill from smelling like ripe bananas, I’d have said something like, “Not particularly.” But that was before I’d tried L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP. Created by Céline Ellena (daughter of the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena and an accomplished perfumer in her own right), this 2019 release is fabulously flamboyant.

The opening is deceptively reserved, with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. And then a rich and ripe banana effect through the skilful use of synthetics and naturals (including jasmine at its most fruity). The skin and fruit vibe continues through to the amber accord drydown featuring tonka bean and musk at the fore.

Un vrai delice!

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP

*All these best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics

Best Incense Fragrances: The Smoky Edition

Incense Fragrances

Incense has been used over the centuries in a variety of religious, spiritual and cultural practices from China and Japan to India and Arabia. The smell of burning incense and the waft of its smoke continues to enchant perfume-lovers. As you would expect, incense fragrances tend to have an oriental vibe.

I’ve included a variety of incense fragrances on this list, from those where it is the dominant note to those where there’s just a hint of it. Not everyone goes for the full incense experience.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite incense fragrances?

Incense Fragrances

AMOUAGE INTERLUDE WOMAN EDP* (KARINE VINCHON SPEHNER)

There’s a lot happening in this multi-layered 2012 release from the Oman-based niche fragrance house, but these are some of the highlights.

Opulent honey-tinged marigolds are the first to catch my attention in the opening, followed by a herbal dose of immortelle. But it’s the seductive smoke from the frankincense and myrrh that gets me every time. The drydown maintains the sensual atmosphere. Leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and a smidgeon of oud are all discernible in the luxe mix.

ORTO PARISI TERRONI PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Maverick Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri prefers to explain the distinctive creations from his niche fragrance brand through story-telling, instead of notes. While some perfume stories tell you nothing, the one for this 2017 release says it all.

Inspired by the volcanic land surrounding Mount Vesuvius, it’s suitably earthy and fiery with stand-out notes of dark cocoa, berries, vetiver and patchouli. Dark and smoky incense weaves its way throughout the scent.

This is a potent parfum, so spray lightly when applying it, as it lasts forever and a day. Also look out for Gualtieri’s infamous cannabis-infused Black Afgano from his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which has a strong incense element.

Incense Fragrances

ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! POUR LUI EDT (NATHALIE LORSON & AURELIEN GUICHARD)

The French fashion label is popular for its rock-chic aesthetic. What’s less well-known is that it has several quality fragrances. Officially marketed at men, but perfectly unisex, Just Rock! Pour Lui is one of their best.

This 2017 release opens with the warm, vanilla-ish overtones of tonka bean, which is further enhanced by a black vanilla note. The incense note makes its presence felt early in the fragrance’s progression. Sophisticated yet accessible, it’s complemented by a twist of spice, settling on a base of earthy patchouli.

A simple, but effective composition, it’s one of the the best-priced incense fragrances you’ll find.

Incense Fragrances

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR EDP (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

There are many reasons to always have a bottle of Guerlain Shalimar in your fragrance wardrobe. Some of these include:

  • It’s an all-time classic that has lost none of its magnificence since its launch in 1925.
  • It’s widely celebrated as the first oriental perfume.
  • Inspired by the great love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it’s gorgeously romantic.

It will take you on an olfactory journey through bergamot, iris, jasmine, rose vanilla and tonka bean notes. The incense in the drydown is smoky and sensual. It makes its presence felt without spelling it out.

Incense Fragrances

MEMO SIWA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo is highly regarded for their leather range, Cuir Nomades, which includes African, French and Irish versions. From their Graines Vagabondes collection, Siwa is also worthy of your attention. It’s inspired by the Siwa urban oasis in the Egyptian part of the Sahara Desert.

This 2007 release opens in spicy mode with a note of cinnamon leaf oil, followed by slightly sweet notes of narcissus absolute and freesia, featuring green nuances. Vanilla dominates the drydown, while a gentle take on the incense theme accentuates the oriental mood.

For a heavier take on incense, sniff out Memo Tiger’s Nest.

Incense Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Founded in the 1970s in Paris, L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of the niche fragrance industry’s pioneers. Its well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was launched in 1999.

A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience. Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and amber add sweetness to the blend, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Incense Fragrances

EX NIHILO OUD VENDOME EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche brand specialises in luxurious fragrances made from the best ingredients, and Oud Vendôme is typical of its modern approach to perfumery.

The intro is delicately spicy with notes of ginger and saffron, transitioning to a heart that balances green galbanum and woody cedar. The combo of precious agarwood and soothing incense in the drydown is super-smooth and sophisticated. A big dose of musk brings cosiness to the mix.

This 2014 woody oriental has a decidedly Western feel. Nothing wrong with that when it’s this chic.

Incense Fragrances

ELLA K BAISER DE FLORENCE* (SONIA CONSTANT)

From Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle and Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau to Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her and Tom Ford Orchid Soleil, Sonia Constant is one of my favourite perfumers.

The Parisian founded her own niche fragrance company in 2017 and Baiser de Florence, inspired by a visit to a Florentine church, was one of her first releases.

This is primarily an iris fragrance, a suitably powdery and cool one at that, but it’s the trail of incense that keeps me coming back for more. Wood and musk complete the soft and romantic mood.

Incense Fragrances

YSL CAFTAN EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Launched in 2015, this EDP is from the French fashion brand’s perfume wardrobe-inspired Le Vestiaire des Parfums private collection. It was created by the brilliant Calice Becker (Kilian Back to Black, Dior J’Adore, Giorgio Armani Ambre Eccentrico), so you know you’re in for a treat.

There’s a brief, barely noticeable citrus intro, but that’s okay, because we’re here for the rich, resinous smokiness of olibanum (frankincense), benzoin and styrax. What a seductive trio – all bringing out the best in each other!

The luxurious oriental mood continues through to the drydown, with labdanum in deep ambery mode. A dash of musk heightens the warmth.

Incense Fragrances

KILIAN INCENSE OUD EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

For a more intense oud and incense experience, you can’t go wrong with this 2011 release from the niche fragrance company founded by Kilian Hennessy. As the heir to the luxury cognac dynasty, he’s au fait with all things luxury, and Incense Oud delivers that in abundance.

A rich rose in full bloom sets the scene for the scent, with warm spicy notes of cardamom and pink pepper in the background. Patchouli accentuates the opulent vibe. It doesn’t take long for the precious oud and smoky incense to come through. Deep stuff! Sandalwood adds just the right amount of creaminess.

Incense Fragrances

ROOS & ROOS MENTHA RELIGIOSA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

French niche fragrance house Roos & Roos was founded in 2014 by beauty industry veteran Chantal Roos and her daughter, Alexandra. Mentha Religiosa won the Fragrance Foundation’s best independent perfume award in 2017 for good reason. It’s full of intriguing contrasts.

It makes a cool and fresh first impression with sharp notes of citrusy bergamot and peppery mint. Things warm up in the drydown where incense takes the leading role. It’s the kind you’d smell at a Catholic mass. Notes of patchouli and cedar provide earthy and woody support.

Incense Fragrances

Image: roosandroos.fr

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.