Tag: HERMES

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Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP Review

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Since its launch in 2006, Terre d’Hermès has achieved “modern classic” status. So any new flanker to this much-loved fragrance is bound to be scrutinised and compared with the original created by Jean-Claude Ellena. I’m talking about you, Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, which was launched in 2022.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Limited editions aside, it helps that the French luxury brand has treated its prized perfume with the reverence it deserves and resisted the temptation to regularly release a different version of it.

PERFUMER

Before succeeding Jean-Claude Ellena as the company’s in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel made a name for herself with Cartier Eau de Cartier EDT (2001), Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT (2003), Dior Miss Dior Cherie EDP (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP (2006), Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street EDC (2013), Giorgio Armani Si EDP (2013) and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne (2014), among others.

An impressive résumé that reflects the Swiss perfumer’s knack for commercial and creative success.

Since 2016, she has maintained the Hermès reputation for refined luxury with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate EDC (2016), Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016), Twilly d’Hermès EDP (2017), Un Jardin Sur La Lagune EDT (2019) and H24 EDT (2021).

Hermès Galop d'Hermès Parfum - Christine Nagel

“With Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée, I wanted to challenge the idea that freshness is synonymous with a certain lightness. I sought to express the intense freshness of a land covered with ice, and the fusion of these two elements, a source of primary, regenerative energy for men,” says the perfumer on the brand’s website.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP - Christine Nagel

SO WHAT DOES TERRE D’HERMÈS EAU GIVRÉE EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening is all about citron (also known as cédrat), the ancient citrus variety. Here, it’s fresh, bright and slightly sour, as to be expected, but infused with a cool and invigorating iciness. Love it already! The aromatics of juniper berries and citric spice of timur pepper prolong the freshness.

Woody warmth features prominently in the drydown. And, of course, it wouldn’t be Terre d’Hermès without a dose of conceptual minerality, achieved through synthetic means.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Christine Nagel was aiming for the frisson of powerful freshness, and she’s achieved that with her customary expertise.

It’s too sophisticated to be called a “freshie”. Global warming meet your nemesis, olfactorily speaking, that is. With its crisp and cool character, this one is perfect for periods of relentless heat.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP is available in South Africa at Woolworths. 

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Hermès H24 EDT Review: Nature Meets Sensual Metal

Hermès H24 EDT

I don’t like making grand announcements, especially when we’re only half-way through the year. But it’s a pretty safe bet to declare that Hermès H24 is the most anticipated release of 2021.

It’s the French luxury goods company’s first brand-new male fragrance since the award-winning Terre d’ Hermès. That 2006 release created by Jean-Claude Ellena went onto become a modern classic. It re-affirmed the house’s reputation for top quality. So expectations of Hermès H24 are massive, to say the least.

Hermès H24 EDT

Christine Nagel succeeded Ellena as the in-house perfumer in 2016. Since then, she has produced standouts such as Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, Twilly d’Hermès and Galop d’Hermès for the brand.

For the creation of Hermès H24, the Swiss perfumer (pictured, below) wanted a blend of nature (botanicals) and technology (man-made molecules). “I had to open up other, less predictable paths, to move away from the conventional woodiness of men’s scents,” she says.

The notion of nature meeting technology is evident from the grey and lime green paper box (100% recycled and recyclable). The aerodynamically shaped glass bottle (refillable and recyclable) designed by Philippe Mouquet (he also designed the Terre d’ Hermès bottle) echoes that theme in typically elegant Hermès style.

SO WHAT DOES HERMÈS H24 SMELL LIKE?

Herbal clary sage (essence and absolute) introduces this EDT. It’s aromatic in a big way, with grassy accents, and makes its way throughout the scent.

Narcissus can be unruly and dominant at the best of times. But in Nagel’s accomplished hands, the absolute version of this floral reveals its crisp, green, slightly bitter, tobacco-ish aspects. Sustainably sourced from Peruvian producers, citrusy rosewood essence builds on the freshness of the narcissus absolute.

Hermès H24 EDT

And now for the definitive (and trickiest part) of the composition – sclarene – a molecule that brings the technological part to the equation. Metallic (in a warm and sensual way), Nagel partly chose this note due to its evocation of hot irons in the Hermès sewing workshops. It’s certainly intriguing but will not be to everyone’s liking.

Hermès H24 EDT

And perhaps that’s the point of this brave release. It’s not going to be an immediate pleaser or classic like Terre d’Hermès. In fact, it might take some time to come around to it, especially with the dominance of the clary sage. So best give it time to develop on your skin to appreciate all its facets.

Hermès H24 EDT is available at Woolworths.

 

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Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles Review

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.

“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”

However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).

IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.

So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?

It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.

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Twilly d’Hermès EDP Review

Twilly d’Hermès EDP

One of the buzzwords I particularly dislike is “millennials”. It’s over used and comes with massive (and questionable) generalisations. So forgive me while I use the term to make a point how, like many others, the perfume industry is making a big play for the minds and moolah of millennials. Some of these attempts fall horribly and/or laughably flat because either they try too hard to speak to younger consumers or fail to offer them anything new or exciting. I am happy to report, though, that Twilly d’Hermès EDP, launched in 2017, gets it right in many ways.

Twilly d’Hermès EDP

GINGERLY GRACE

Hermes’s in-house perfumer, the masterful Christine Nagel, has created a modern scent for younger women that avoids the sugar overload so prevalent in many younger fragrances.

Twilly d’Hermès opens with a gorgeous ginger note (there’s also some citrus about there). Ginger notes can be quite in your face if not treated well, but this one is fresh and fragrant. The kind you’ll want to spray several times to experience again. It draws you in immediately and irresistibly.

“This ginger note is fresh and fragrant. It draws you in immediately and irresistibly.”

Twilly d’Hermès EDP

Tuberose is at the heart of the fragrance, not overpoweringly so – more a hint of it. Which makes a change from some of the heavy-hitting tuberoses on the market right now.

Twilly d’Hermès is all tied up (I had to use a scarf analogy somewhere) rather nicely with a creamy sandalwood note. Talking of scarves, the bottle is suitably playful and chic, with its bowler hat and Twilly scarf adornment.

Twilly d’Hermès EDP

Before I go, let me state that Twilly d’Hermès is too good to be confined to its target market of younger women. It’s certainly youthful, but it’s not girlie-girlie and twee. So I would highly recommend that older women and adventurous men sniff this one out.

Twilly d’Hermès EDP, R955 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 100 for 85ml.