Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles Review

Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.

“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”

However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).

IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.

So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?

It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.

Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.