Tag: GUCCI BAMBOO EDP

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Frank Voelkl – The Making Of A Master Perfumer

Frank Voelkl
IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

I’ve never met Frank Voelkl. But I’ve taken a keen interest in his career over the years. Partly because I enjoy many of his creations. And then because he’s always been super helpful and friendly when I’ve needed clarification on topics such as synthetics and popular ingredients. So when the company he works for, dsm-firmenich, recently announced he’d been made a master perfumer, I jumped in, congratulated him and had to find out more.

Frank Voelkl
IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Along with Marie Salamagne, Frank Voelkl joins other esteemed master perfumers at dsm-firmenich: Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson.

In these times, when over-use of a word or phrase makes it meaningless – “iconic”, “classic”, I’m looking at you – and “master perfumer” increasingly on that list, I interviewed Frank Voelkl on the making – and meaning – of a master perfumer.

Frank Voelkl - Kilian Roses On Ice EDP
Kilian Roses On Ice EDP* (2020).

For more on Frank Voelkl, read here and here.

How did you celebrate when you were told about this achievement?

To be honest, my first reaction was gratitude rather than celebration. Being named a master perfumer is such a rare distinction that it makes you reflect on the many people who helped you along the way.

“Being named a master perfumer is such a rare distinction that it makes you reflect on the many people who helped you along the way.” – Frank Voelkl

I shared the news with my family, opened a good bottle of wine, and took a moment to appreciate the journey. When you’ve been doing this for many years, these milestones feel less like an individual achievement and more like the culmination of countless collaborations, encounters and creative adventures.

Ermenegildo Zegna Javanese Patchouli EDT
Ermenegildo Zegna Javanese Patchouli EDT (2012). IMAGE: Zegna.
Who was the first person you told about it (outside of work)?

My wife. She has been part of this journey from the very beginning and has influenced my life and even my creative palette more than she probably realises. Throughout a perfumer’s career there are many highs and lows, successes and disappointments, and having someone who shares all that makes any recognition much more meaningful.

Frank Voelkl - Adidas Vibes Spark Up EDP
Adidas Vibes Spark Up EDP (2025).
What does the designation “master perfumer” mean?

For me, it is first and foremost a responsibility. Of course, it recognises a body of work and many years of dedication to the craft, but it goes beyond creative achievements.

A master perfumer is a guardian of perfumery knowledge, someone who contributes to the evolution of the art while helping transmit it to future generations. It is about creativity, mentorship, innovation and a commitment to excellence over the long term.

Frank Voelkl - Le Labo Iris 39 EDP
Le Labo Iris 39 EDP* (2006).
Does it annoy you when you see the term “master perfumer” being used so freely nowadays?

I wouldn’t say it annoys me. The industry has evolved and different companies use different systems of recognition. What matters most is that titles reflect a genuine contribution to the craft. In my case, what makes this designation particularly meaningful is the rigour of the process and the fact that it is awarded very selectively. That gives it a special significance.

“What makes this designation particularly meaningful is the rigour of the process and the fact that it is awarded very selectively.” – Frank Voelkl

I will say, though, that self-proclaimed Masters of the Craft that appear now and then on social media can be a bit irritating!

Ariana Grande Mod Blush EDP
Ariana Grande Mod Blush EDP (2022). IMAGE: Ariana Grande Fragrances.
On a practical level, what does the designation entail?

The funny answer is: I still have to come back to the lab the next morning and create fragrances! But on a deeper level, I think it reinforces my role as a mentor, a creative leader and someone who helps shape the future of perfumery.

I already spend a great deal of time working with younger perfumers, sharing what I learned from mentors like Maurice Roucel and Arturetto Landi, as well as the master perfumers at dsm-firmenich. Becoming a master perfumer strengthens that commitment to transmission, to pushing our craft forward and to represent the values and the vision of the company.

Calvin Klein My Euphoria EDP
Calvin Klein My Euphoria EDP (2023). IMAGE: Calvin Klein.
Your body of work speaks for itself. Are there any specific creations of yours you think contributed to this master perfumer achievement?

It’s difficult for me to single out one fragrance because every creation teaches you something new. Having said that, certain fragrances clearly marked important moments in my career.

“These creations reflect what I’ve always tried to do: keep moving, keep learning and never repeat myself.” 

Le Labo Santal 33 (2011) opened a new chapter and became a cultural phenomenon. You for Glossier (2017) connected with an entirely new generation of consumers. Gucci Bamboo (2015), Phlur Father Figure (2023), Le Labo Thé Matcha 26 (2021) and my continued work with Le Labo helped me explore very different facets of perfumery. I’m proud that these creations are so diverse because they reflect what I’ve always tried to do: keep moving, keep learning and never repeat myself.

Frank Voelkl - Le Labo Santal 33 EDP
Le Labo Santal 33 EDP* (2011).
Was becoming a master perfumer ever a goal of yours? Or is it something that just happened over the years?

When I started my career, I wasn’t thinking about titles. I was thinking about becoming a better perfumer. My goals were much simpler: learn from great mentors, create fragrances that people would remember and continue growing creatively. Looking back, becoming a master perfumer feels less like reaching a destination and more like the natural result of decades spent pursuing excellence, curiosity and reinvention.

Frank Voelkl - Phlur Father Figure EDP
Phlur Father Figure EDP (2023). IMAGE: Phlur.

One of the lessons I’ve always carried with me is that you should never remain stuck in a rut. You have to keep looking forward. That mindset has probably guided me more than any specific career ambition.

Are there any perks to being a master perfumer?

The greatest perk is probably feeling part of a lineage. I am honored to join colleagues whom I deeply admire and whose careers I have followed for many years. There is also something rewarding about knowing that your peers and your company recognise not only what you have created, but how you have contributed to the profession itself.

Glossier You EDP
Glossier You EDP (2017). IMAGE: Glossier.

That being said, there is no special parking spot and no secret master perfumer lounge! The real reward remains the same as it has always been: creating fragrances.

For the upcoming official event in September 2026, would thoughts about what fragrance you’re going to wear occur to you?

Absolutely! Perfumers think about fragrance the way musicians think about music. The challenge will be choosing just one. I tend to wear fragrances that have personal meaning rather than simply making a statement. I already have something in mind that I’ve been working on for the occasion, but I may not decide until the very last minute.

DKNY 24/7 EDP
DKNY 24/7 EDP (2024). IMAGE: Donna Karan.

Fortunately, September in Paris offers wonderful weather for fragrance, so I have time to think about it.

*Available from Skins.

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Frank Voelkl Interview: In Praise Of Synthetics

Frank Voelkl
Image: Firmenich.

I recently had the opportunity to interview natural perfumer Douglas Little about his work. There was also a lively discussion on Undina’s Looking Glass about natural, synthetic and “mixed media” perfumes. All of which prompted me to get going on an interview with Frank Voelkl, which I’d been wanting to do for a long time.

Something told me he would be helpful in providing valuable insights on the role of synthetics in modern perfumery. The New York-based senior perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavour company Firmenich took time out of his busy schedule to answer the questions I emailed him.

Frank Voelkl
Image: Firmenich.

Before we get to those enlightening answers, a quick overview of the work of Frank Voelkl. He has earned major respect for creations and co-creations such as:

  • Alfred Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
  • Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
  • Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
  • Zirh Ikon EDT (2008)
  • Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
  • Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP (2012)
  • Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
  • Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
  • Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
Frank Voelkl
Image: Fragrantica.

Of course, Frank Voelkl is most famous for his work for Le Labo. He has produced the decade-defining Santal 33 (2011), Iris 39 (2006), Ylang 49 and Thé Noir 29 (2015), among others, for the NYC-based niche fragrance company.

Frank Voelkl
Image: Le Labo.
Where did you study perfumery and what was the most important thing you learned there?

I did a bachelor in Chemistry in Germany and then got a degree at ISIPCA in Versailles. I always remember what the legendary Edmond Roudnitska [creator of classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Hermès Eau d’Hermès and Rochas Femme] told me during his class: “Never lose track of where you want to go with your creation and always keep the goal, what you want to achieve in mind.” It’s easy to get “distracted” when you create.

Frank Voelkl
NICHE PARTNERSHIP: Frank Voelkl has created several fragrances for Le Labo.
Would modern perfumery exist without the use of synthetics / molecules?

Absolutely not. The introduction of molecules in perfumery in the late 1800s launched modern perfumery. Just think about Chanel No 5 (1921), which wouldn’t exist without its aldehydes. Dior Eau Sauvage by E. Roudnitska (1966) wouldn’t exist without Hedione. The use of molecules really allowed us to discover new paths in modern perfumery.

Image: Fragrantica.
What role do synthetics play when you’re creating a fragrance?

Molecules have always co-existed in my creations together with natural ingredients. They are equally important and both add beauty to a fragrance.

“If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line.” – Frank Voelkl 

If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line. The use of a natural, which typically is a more complex and faceted ingredient, is similar to the use of a large brush stroke. Which means that molecules often have a more linear character and are more singular in smell. I use them exactly for that reason – to introduce a very particular note into my creation. Molecules also allow us to introduce notes that do not exist in nature and to explore uncharted olfactive territories. They are essential for innovation.

For example, when creating Gucci Bamboo, I used a particular molecule which added a very delicate green note recognisable throughout the fragrance, which I could not have achieved in the same way with a natural ingredient.

Image: Fragrantica.
You’ve created a number of fragrances for NYC-based niche house, Nomenclature, including Adr_rett, Holy_wood and Psy_Cou. What was the attraction of working with the founders, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero?

Karl and Carlos had approached me a while back, inviting me to work on their new brand Nomenclature. Given my enthusiasm for molecules and the fact that Firmenich has a large number of captive molecules, it made a lot of sense to me.

Karl and I actually met a few years earlier working on a project together, and we immediately seemed to understand each other well. Of course, the fact that Karl and I both have our roots in Germany is an added bonus. It has been a great pleasure working with Karl and Carlos since the beginning, and am happy to collaborate with them on their beautiful brand.

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature, which showcases exclusive molecules in perfumery. Image: Nomenclature.
Referring to Nomenclature Psy_Cou, which showcases coumarin. tell us about the beauty of this molecule and its influence on modern perfumery.

I still remember smelling coumarin for the first time in my life when it was presented to me as one of the first raw materials from the ingredient training at ISIPCA. It’s creamy, almondy and, to me, immediately triggered a sensation of comfort.

Frank Voelkl

First used in Fougère Royale by Houbigant, it has since had an important role to play in men’s fougère structures, but has also made its way into many women’s fragrances. It is present in nature as well, in many aromatic essential oils or in hay extract, for example.

Image: WorthPoint.
Which recently created molecule are you particularly excited about and how have you used it?

We have a few recent captive molecules at Firmenich that are very exciting olfactively, a new floral aldehydic one, in particular, that I use for an aquatic transparent, yet powerful women’s fragrance. Sorry, but I can’t tell you more about it than that.

In recent years, there’s been increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients in beauty products, including fragrances. Is this a good thing for perfumery? And ultimately for the environment?

I’m glad you ask this question because I think that there is a really important message that consumers need to know. As much as anything natural is perceived to be good for you and anything synthetic as inferior, the use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.

“The use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.”

If all fragrances were made only of naturals, our world supply would be exhausted quite rapidly. In addition, any ingredient used in fragrances, naturals or molecules, is tested before use and has to pass the same standards.

Frank Voelkl
Image: Ermenegildo Zegna.
What will be the major trendS in perfumery this decade?

Starting a decade with a major pandemic has certainly had a great impact on perfumery trends. Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean. They’re increasingly looking for fragrances that make them feel good and like to know the source of the ingredients used in fragrances. Sustainability and social impact are also important factors influencing consumers in their choices. Olfactive trends will align with these criteria.

Le Labo and Nomenclature fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.