BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM Archives

February 26, 2022February 26, 2022

Best Byredo Fragrances: 12 Releases From The Swedish Niche Brand To Get Your Nose On

A rhetorical question before I get to my best Byredo fragrances selection: is there a cooler perfume brand founder than Ben Gorham (pictured, below)? The fine arts graduate and professional basketball player-turned-entrepreneur launched his fragrance company in Stockholm, Sweden, in 2006.

Image: Byredo.

Within a few years, Byredo secured its position as a leading niche house with straightforward yet distinctive compositions that range from the crowd-pleasing to the more daringly unusual.

Some recent releases haven’t hit the heights of earlier ones, but there’s still no shortage of best Byredo fragrances.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Byredo fragrances?

BYREDO GYPSY WATER EDP

All successful niche brands make their name with specific releases. This 2008 EDP put Byredo firmly on the fragrance map.

A celebration of Romany culture in a most romantic way, the olfactory homage begins in delicately fresh style, with notes of juniper berries, bergamot and lemon capturing the imagination. Seductive mystery wafts throughout in the form of smoky incense and aromatic pine needle notes. And then it’s time for a terrific trio of vanilla, amber and sandalwood to lay on the creaminess.

No surprises, it’s been a best-seller since its launch and remains the perfect intro to the house.

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP

This 2009 release epitomises the brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.

There’s a big blast of aldehydes in the opening. Most well known for its use in Chanel No 5, this synthetic gives this EDP a fresh, soapy vibe. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.

With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this 2009 release. It’s probably my favourite in this best Byredo fragrances round-up.

The tone is set from the opening, with its mix of citrus freshness (lemon, bergamot, neroli). Notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality, with soft florals in the background. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk and Moroccan cedarwood in the drydown.

It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances on the market and holds the attention from start to finish.

BYREDO LA TULIPE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Who says tulips aren’t fragrant? While most varieties are indeed odourless, this 2010 release showcases the floral in spectacularly scented style.

The intro of cyclamen, freesia and rhubarb notes creates a fresh spring-like mood. The rendition of tulip builds on that freshness in a lush green, slightly spicy style. It’s impressively realistic and not sweet in the least. The vetiver in the drydown maintains the green freshness, while blonde woods (the synthetic Cashmeran) brings smooth muskiness.

One of the best in the genre, it stands out for all the right reasons.

BYREDO OUD IMMORTEL EDP

Oud is regarded as one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery and this 2010 release does a fine job of approximating its appeal through skilful use of ingredients.

The intro sees the resinous spice of cardamom infused with the smoke of incense. The combination of richly floral Brazilian rosewood, smoky papyrus and earthy patchouli notes come together to create a remarkable oud-like result. Notes of oakmoss and tobacco maintain the illusion in the drydown.

The brand’s Accord Oud is also recommended, if you’re looking for a fruitier, leathery take on the theme.

BYREDO BLACK SAFFRON EDP

Inspired by Ben Gorham’s heritage (his mother is Indian) and the importance of saffron in Hinduism, this 2012 release is not as abstinent as it sounds.

The leathery qualities of spicy saffron are played up in the intro, with a fresh hint of juniper berries and grapefruit in the background. A gently animalic leather accord is sweetened with a note of fruity raspberry and powdery violet, while Cashmeran brings a warm musky vibe to the composition.

If you’re in the market for a sophisticated leather fragrance, Byredo Saffron deserves a place in your collection.

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP

The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release.

The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.

A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP

Taking its cue from the nickname given by soldiers to the courageous, life-saving nurses during the First World War, this 2015 release is the one for you if you’re looking for a gentle intro to a rose fragrance.

It opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by the rosy spiciness of pink peppercorns. The centrepiece is softly enveloping Turkish rose absolute, with the fruity-floral hues of raspberry blossom in the background.

Finished with an amber accord and the aromatic woodiness of papyrus, it’s a warm and agreeable fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

BYREDO BIBLIOTHÈQUE EDP

As its name suggests, this 2017 release (originally the brand’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity mode with sweet (but not too sweet) notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring peony. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect.

A leather accord completes the EDP, with notes of patchouli and vetiver adding to the intimate feel of being immersed in a world of old books.

BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd-friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

BYREDO SLOW DANCE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

I don’t always buy into the story of a fragrance, but the one for this 2019 release works a charm – “a rites-of-passage moment… high school clichés mingle…” – both in its inspiration and execution.

Jérôme Epinette conjures a suitably sweet and sticky experience with notes of opoponax, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli notes featuring prominently in the warm, almost candyfloss-y ambience.

I can almost feel the teachers scanning the young couples for any unacceptable behaviour as George Michael’s Careless Whisper creates a frisson among the young’uns.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron.

A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental atmosphere.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

All of these best Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

November 20, 2021

Simple Pleasures: The Best Uncomplicated Fragrances

Who says perfumes must be complex to be good? The best uncomplicated fragrances rely on simple compositions in which it’s possible to pick up most of the listed notes.

This doesn’t mean there’s less technical and creative expertise involved in producing these uncomplicated fragrances. If anything, it takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.

“It takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.”

SIMPLE ENOUGH: French brand Berdoues is particularly good at uncomplicated fragrances.

Here’s my selection of the best uncomplicated fragrances. The perfect antidote to our over-stimulated times.

Do you have any favourite uncomplicated fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE LE PARFUM EDP INTENSE (QUENTIN BISCH & NATHALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Launched in 1995, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. 50+ flankers and limited editions later, Le Male Le Parfum was released in 2020 to celebrate its 25^th anniversary. More streamlined than the original, one might even call him mature.

This EDP (the parfum bit must be for marketing purposes) opens with the sweet spice of cardamom. Aromatic lavender is given a powdery vibe thanks to iris, while vanilla cosies up with woody notes in the drydown.

Staying true to the original with its prominent accents of lavender and vanilla, it’s very likeable in a warm and sensual oriental style.

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE **COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)**

Frédéric Malle describes Cologne Indélébile as “erotic naiveté”. Only the French could get away with such language. What I do know is that this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house makes me feel incredibly calm and refreshed.

Opening all fresh, citrusy and green with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain, it isn’t a reinvention of the classic cologne format. There’s no need for that. The florals of orange blossom and narcissus maintain the crisp feel, while tempering the initial sharpness.

Colognes are often things of fleeting beauty, but an overdose of white musk gives this one more oomph than usual. It also gives this beauty a chic cleanness.

BERDOUES VÂNIRA MOOREA EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

Something simple? Something a bit exotic? Something that will make you want to smell yourself? Repeatedly. This 2016 release from the Grasse-based company’s travel-inspired Grands Crus Collection will satisfy these needs. And more.

Featuring fresh citrus notes of petitgrain and orange, the opening will draw you in immediately. It’s a bright and sunny island mood (even if you’re stuck behind your PC), with green aspects. And then there’s the vanilla from Moorea, an island near Tahiti. It’s smooth, creamy and tropical, without being too sticky sweet. Delicious stuff!

I also recommend other simple pleasures from this brand, such as Maasaï Mara and Selva do Brazil.

HERMÈS UN JARDIN SUR LA LAGUNE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’m all for fragrances that take me to special places in these Covid-limiting times. And Hermès Un Jardin Sur La Lagune does that in understated style.

For the most recent addition to the Gardens Collection (2019), the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel took inspiration from a secret garden in a Venice lagoon.

Its white florals (magnolia, lily and pittosporum) have a subtly sweet scent. In the background there’s a marine accord, with a soupçon of salt, adding to the freshness. Settling on a woody base, this unisex EDT is relaxing and dreamy. Couldn’t ask for more right now.

**DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE**)

Diptyque excels at perfumes that smell wonderfully natural. And this 1988 release is a prime example. It takes its inspiration from the lush smells emanating from Venetian gardens during summer evenings.

That mood begins in opulent style with notes of narcissus and honeysuckle. It’s floral, but with green accents. The fresh floral theme continues with notes of wisteria and jasmine, without tipping into unbearable sweetness.

It’s an olfactory invite to get lost in it all and with a perfume this good, how could you refuse?

**PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)**

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families.

The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan. In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

I also rate Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George from the same range.

HUGO BOSS HUGO REVERSED EDT

Hugo Boss fragrances have been about zesty freshness since the launch of the original in 1995, and this 2018 release fits the pattern.

Probably the best flanker from the range, it opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a hint of clean vetiver.

This no-frills, but surprisingly versatile scent is primarily aimed at young men but is too good not to try for yourself if you’re from an older demographic. Points for the graphic flacon too.

Image: Hugo Boss.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE THIS IS LOVE! FOR HIM EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

I’ve had a soft spot for Zadig & Voltaire releases for quite some time and can’t recommend them enough for their terrific value. This 2020 release affirms why the French rock-chic fashion label gets it right.

Fresh bergamot opens this EDT. It’s followed by a note of sunshine-kissed orange blossom. But it’s the big dose of warm and creamy sandalwood in the drydown that wraps up this creation rather nicely.

It’s as deceptively simple as 1, 2 , 3, but oh so effective and sensual.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron. A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental ambience.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

**ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)**

I’m always keen to try Escentric Molecules fragrances to learn more about the chemistry of perfumery. Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 showcases the aroma-molecule Cashmeran (also known as cashmere wood or blond woods).

This synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least. It can be found in everything from Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras to Maison Martin Margiela By The Fireplace. With its musky and woody qualities, there’s a good reason why it’s such an essential part of any perfumer’s toolkit. On its own in this 2020 release, there’s lots of dry cosiness, with a gentle sweetness.

Thanks for the lesson, Mr Schoen. Fascinating, as always.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The latest addition (2020) to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet to the vegan formula, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

Esteemed French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian can always be relied upon to produce elegant, timeless scents. This year, he released cologne forte (strong) versions of the best-selling unisex Aqua range: Universalis, Celestia and Vitae.

All three are worth sniffing out, but Aqua Celestia Cologne Forte (pictured below, right) stands out with its seeming effortlessness.

The opening is on the tart side, with the citrus hues of bergamot at the fore. But not for long, as the fruitiness of blackcurrant, mimosa and jasmine notes come into play. The fruitiness continues through to the musky and powdery drydown.

*These best uncomplicated fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

Tag: BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM