BRUNO JOVANOVIC Archives

Thameen, the British niche brand that takes its inspiration from precious gems and treasures, had been under-performing for a while, despite the evident quality of their fragrances since launching in 2013.

That’s all changing with the appointment of Christopher Chong as creative director. He helped Amouage become the powerhouse it is today during his 12 years at the Oman-based brand. And no doubt the owner of Thameen, Basel Binjabr, wants some of the same magic too.

IMAGE: Thameen.

Chong’s influence is already evident in the launch of the Britologne Collection and the collaboration with (and acknowledgement) of top perfumers for the London-based house.

I take you through their best releases. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

THAMEEN CARVED OUD EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

It seems every niche brand must have an oud fragrance or two in their repertoire. While it’s not hyped as much as others in the genre, this 2013 release should more than satiate your precious ingredient fix.

The spicy-aromatic intro is on the quiet side. It allows the oud (sourced from the south of India) to take centre stage with its richness. Cedarwood and patchouli amplify the woody profile.

The powdery iris facet segues ever so smoothly into the drydown where creamy sandalwood and earthy vetiver stand out.

A fine debut, along with Amber Room, Moon of Baroda, Noorolain Taif and Peacock Throne.

THAMEEN GREEN PEARL EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The website blurb for this 2016 release (inspired by the glowing fluorite pearls from China) promises “a soothing and calming mood”. When so beautifully executed, how could I say no.

The intro is all about the crisp freshness of bergamot. Notes of apple and neroli set it on a green path, with a hint of sweet sunniness from mandarin orange. There’s more greenery of the aromatic-herbal variety from tea and artemisia (nothing too bitter), with a twist of spicy black pepper in the background. The drydown is earthy in style, with oakmoss and musk providing the finishing touches.

I’ve added it to my list of favourite greens.

THAMEEN DIADEM EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

Frankincense (also known as olibanum), derived from the resin of the trunk of the Boswellia tree, always gets my attention. And it’s especially captivating in this 2018 release.

Here, the precious ingredient (sourced from Oman) is at its complex fresh and spicy best, with aromatic assistance from lavender and cardamom. It’s an integral part of this fragrance’s amber accord that also takes in the creaminess of vanilla absolute and earthiness of patchouli.

When combined with floral notes of saffron and rose, the result is heavenly indeed.

THAMEEN SCEPTRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s a fair amount of pepperiness in the opening of this 2018 release. Perhaps too much for some.

Don’t walk away just yet, as the notes of peach and ylang-ylang provide a welcome fruity contrast, while the wisteria note is pushed in a spicy direction too. The amber accord in the drydown highlights the warm balsamic tones of Somali myrrh and Siam benzoin.

Highly recommended if lots of sensual spice is your thing.

THAMEEN IMPERIAL CROWN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

With its inspiration – the State Imperial Crown in the Tower of London – I was expecting a lot from this 2018 addition to the Sovereign Collection. And it doesn’t disappoint.

The contrast between fresh and warm spiciness from notes of black pepper, pink pepper and elemi makes for an appealing opening.

The balsamic, citrus tones of the latter (often used in incense) complements the wondrous wafts of Somali frankincense. Some more info about this ingredient, which as we know was brought by the Three Wise Men, along with gold and myrrh, on their visit to Jesus after his birth (that’s how precious it is).

The resin is sourced from trees of the Boswellia species and in this perfume, it’s beautifully aromatic and woody. I trust the brand is using ethically sourced frankincense, as there is much controversy about exploitative practices in the production of this ingredient.

Okay, now where was I? Oh yes, there’s a mildly animalic leather accord in the mix, which is amplified by the smoky tones of guaiac wood and earthiness of patchouli in the drydown.

Thoroughly intriguing stuff.

THAMEEN PEREGRINA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s lots of online love for this 2019 release and all well deserved.

Damask rose, lush and almost honeyed, stands out among the heady bouquet of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes. It goes in a gorgeously gourmand direction with the creaminess of vanilla and caramel. Myrrh adds a balsamic oriental layer. The powderiness of white musk is boosted in the drydown with some clever effects.

It’s undeniably sweet, but so well done, I’m back for more.

THAMEEN ROYAL SAPPHIRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The name alone sounds terrifically aristocratic and with its inspiration from the St Edwards Sapphire (apparently the oldest gemstone in the British royal collection), this 2019 release radiates quality.

Bergamot and mandarin introduce citric sunniness to the composition. It’s fresh and on the right side of sweetness. Jasmine (intense and heady) is partnered with beautifully rendered orange blossom (honeyed and sensual). Their indolic character is given sparkle ’n shine with the synthetic Ambroxan. Patchouli and moss balance the slight sweetness with earthiness.

Uplifting stuff!

THAMEEN CULLINAN DIAMOND EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

When a fragrance is named after the world’s largest rough diamond, it needs to be an impressively grand affair. And that’s exactly what this 2021 release does with elegant flair.

Starting with the bright spiciness of black pepper, it moves onto a suitably regal interpretation of the queen of florals (rose) laced with creamy vanilla and earthy orris. Skilful use of the rather fancy-sounding Cashmere Musk (FYI: a compound of synthetics and essential oils) brings it all together in a most sensual way.

It’s warm, it’s powdery, it’s slightly animalic. In fact, it’s rather lovely.

THAMEEN BRAVI COLOGNE ELIXIR (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

Christopher Chong joined Thameen in 2022 as their creative director. He’s been a busy boy collaborating with top perfumers on the Britologne Collection (Fanfare, Bohemian Infusion, Bravi) that debuted in 2023.

All three are well worth sniffing out if you want modern interpretations of the cologne style but with more oomph and elements of the unexpected. I’ll focus on Bravi here.

It begins innocently enough with lots of zesty ginger supported by the spicy freshness of bergamot and bitter orange. Things get more seductive as tuberose gets the honeyed and milky treatment. The white floral is prominent without being over-powering but is still not one for beginners. The softly caramel tones of tobacco mingle with creamy vanilla in the warm drydown.

I love the contrasts (fresh and warm, innocent and carnal, classic and contemporary) in this one.

Thameen fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

Image: Firmenich.

You know you’re a highly regarded perfumer when Frédéric Malle gives you his customary carte blanche to create a fragrance for his eponymous brand. Three times. Only the select few – for example, Jean-Claude Ellena and Dominique Ropion – have been acknowledged this way. But then Bruno Jovanovic is not your average perfumer.

The abundant creative and technical talents of Bruno Jovanovic were nurtured by the industry’s greats as a student and young perfumer. They helped the Parisian make his mark early in his career with the modern classic Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce Cologne (2002). This was followed by other designer, niche and celebrity standouts such as:

Calvin Klein CK IN2U For Her and Him EDT (2007)
Paco Rabanne Lady Million EDP (2010)
Chopard Mille Miglia EDP (2013)
Sofia Vergara Sofia EDP (2014)
Hugo Boss The Scent EDT (2015)
Masque Milano Times Square EDP (2017)
Coach For Men EDT (2017)
Amouage Rose Incense EDP (2019)

Image: Amouage.

Most recently, he produced Giorgio Armani My Way EDP (2020) and Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Le Parfum EDP (2021).

I caught up with Bruno Jovanovic on the influence of his mother, mentors and marijuana.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

You caught me at work, I don’t wear any fragrance when I am working. It’s too disturbing – my nose needs to stay sharp! When I am not working, I like to wear what I am working on at the moment. It’s critical to wear your fragrances to know how they behave in usage.

Image: Paco Rabanne.

When did you know you wanted to become a perfumer?

I must have been around six years old. I didn’t know what a perfumer was; all I knew was I wanted to create my own perfumes. I had no idea how to get there, but then again, at that age, I knew I had time to figure it out.

My mother has always been a fragrance lover and I guess the little boy wanted to make sure she would never run out of them!

Image: Coach.

Have you ever doubted that decision?

At some point I did. People know how difficult it is to get into the world of fragrances. And my friends didn’t want me to get hurt. So doubts started appearing. But very quickly, I decided I had to try as I couldn’t even bear to think of doing something else. I am glad I did.

Image: Hugo Boss.

Where did you study? Did you have a mentor?

I worked hard to join the ISIPCA (International Higher Institute of Perfume, Cosmetics and Food Aromatics) in Versailles, France. It was a wonderful opportunity to enter that very closed world and to meet lots of perfumers who became mentors.

“It was a wonderful opportunity to enter that very closed world and to meet lots of perfumers who became mentors.” – Bruno Jovanovic

My first mentor was Raymond Chaillan [co-creator of Yves Saint Laurent Opium EDP], a remarkable perfumer and teacher who taught me my first steps as a creator. Then I met Dominique Ropion [Mugler Alien EDP], who was teaching at the school, and Olivier Cresp [Mugler Angel EDP, pictured below], who I was lucky to be able to team with on the elaboration of the school’s end-of-year project.

Image: Firmenich.

When I moved to the US [to work for International Flavors & Fragrances], I was mentored by Sophia Grojsman [Lancôme Trésor EDP] and Carlos Benaïm [Ralph Lauren Polo EDT]. Coming back to Paris, I teamed up with Dominique again and Anne Flipo [YSL Libre EDP, pictured below].

When I look back, I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to work with and learn from all these giants.

What was your debut creation? And how do you feel about it now?

The first real win was in collaboration with Carlos Benaïm and Christophe Laudamiel for Fierce by Abercrombie & Fitch. We were immensely proud of it and lucky to see it become a classic. The three of us are even more proud of it now than back in 2004.

Image: Abercrombie & Fitch.

How would you describe your perfume style and formulas?

I like to work in a quite simple way. My fragrances must have a strong but simple message. The point is not to confuse people with a myriad of ingredients. I like my formulae to be precise and concise. This is the recipe for signature and lasting character.

Image: Frédéric Malle.

You’ve created three fragrances for Frédéric Malle – Dries Van Noten, Monsieur and Dans Mon Lit. Did these prestigious projects come with added pressure?

Frédéric Malle is all about luxury. He has the deepest understanding of it, and it shows in the way he works. He gives us the luxury to remove all pressure. Developing a fragrance with him is all about taking our time and sharing emotions, thoughts and ideas. It’s all about beauty.

Giorgio Armani My Way was another high-profile co-creation of yours with Carlos Benaïm. Were you given a tight brief, or did you have relative creative freedom?

We were quite free in the development of the fragrance. From the beginning, we wanted a white floral bouquet revolving around tuberose. Once that was accepted by the Armani team, we were given the freedom to try literally thousands of different ideas to wrap the bouquet. This led to thousands of adjustments and modifications over five full years.

Your 2021 co-creation [with Fanny Bal and Nicolas Beaulieu), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Le Parfum, is notable for its cannabis facet. How did you go about creating it?

I created that fragrance in 2008 but it was deemed too daring back then. I wanted to illustrate the idea of something illicit that could turn “legal” as soon as it became a fragrance. Obviously, the note never contained anything “illegal” but even simply mentioning it was considered too much. It took 12 years to find a brand that would dare going with such a provocative idea.

Image: Carolina Herrera.

Have you ever had big differences with a client about a perfume project and how was that resolved?

Not really. Discussion and communication can fix anything.

Do you ever read reviews of your creations? Do they matter to you?

Sometimes I do because you can always learn. I tend not to pay too much attention, though, because the reviewers don’t know what went on during years of development and that is completely normal.

What are you working on now?

Obviously, I can’t tell as it must remain confidential. But I could tell you that the incredible palette of ingredients at Firmenich is awakening new olfactive obsessions.

Frédéric Malle Dans Mon Lit, Frédéric Malle Monsieur EDP and Frédéric Malle Dries Van Noten EDP are available at Skins Cosmetics.

Tag: BRUNO JOVANOVIC