Tag: BEST HERMES FRAGRANCES

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Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP Review

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Since its launch in 2006, Terre d’Hermès has achieved “modern classic” status. So any new flanker to this much-loved fragrance is bound to be scrutinised and compared with the original created by Jean-Claude Ellena. I’m talking about you, Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, which was launched in 2022.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Limited editions aside, it helps that the French luxury brand has treated its prized perfume with the reverence it deserves and resisted the temptation to regularly release a different version of it.

PERFUMER

Before succeeding Jean-Claude Ellena as the company’s in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel made a name for herself with Cartier Eau de Cartier EDT (2001), Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT (2003), Dior Miss Dior Cherie EDP (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP (2006), Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street EDC (2013), Giorgio Armani Si EDP (2013) and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne (2014), among others.

An impressive résumé that reflects the Swiss perfumer’s knack for commercial and creative success.

Since 2016, she has maintained the Hermès reputation for refined luxury with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate EDC (2016), Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016), Twilly d’Hermès EDP (2017), Un Jardin Sur La Lagune EDT (2019) and H24 EDT (2021).

Hermès Galop d'Hermès Parfum - Christine Nagel

“With Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée, I wanted to challenge the idea that freshness is synonymous with a certain lightness. I sought to express the intense freshness of a land covered with ice, and the fusion of these two elements, a source of primary, regenerative energy for men,” says the perfumer on the brand’s website.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP - Christine Nagel

SO WHAT DOES TERRE D’HERMÈS EAU GIVRÉE EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening is all about citron (also known as cédrat), the ancient citrus variety. Here, it’s fresh, bright and slightly sour, as to be expected, but infused with a cool and invigorating iciness. Love it already! The aromatics of juniper berries and citric spice of timur pepper prolong the freshness.

Woody warmth features prominently in the drydown. And, of course, it wouldn’t be Terre d’Hermès without a dose of conceptual minerality, achieved through synthetic means.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Christine Nagel was aiming for the frisson of powerful freshness, and she’s achieved that with her customary expertise.

It’s too sophisticated to be called a “freshie”. Global warming meet your nemesis, olfactorily speaking, that is. With its crisp and cool character, this one is perfect for periods of relentless heat.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP is available in South Africa at Woolworths. 

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Terre d’Hermès EDT Review: A Veritable Modern Classic

Terre d'Hermès

Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using the term “modern classic”. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.

I’ve found myself returning to it many times this year. There’s something undeniably comforting and timeless about wearing this scent. During the worst of lockdown earlier this year when venturing beyond the confines of the flat was fraught with all sorts of imagined risks and fears, my beloved TDH brought the beauty of nature directly to me.

“It has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents.”

Launched in 2006 (and also available in highly recommended Parfum and Eau Intense Vetiver EDP versions), it has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents. “Feeling the earth, lying on the ground, gazing at the sky,” is how the legendary perfumer described it, according to the French luxury brand’s website.

Terre d'Hermès

Its appeal is evident from the get-go. Notes of slightly sweet orange and tart grapefruit provide a perfect balance of sunny and uplifting citrus. While this citrus is unusually present throughout, a gentle twist of black pepper brings a spicy and earthy component to the composition.

The drydown is wonderfully woody, with a combo of cedar, patchouli and vetiver in play. The latter deserves a special mention. While characteristically earthy, its freshness is also what makes TDH so memorable.

Interestingly, according to Women’s Wear Daily, Ellena decided not to use musk notes when creating it. “Musk creates a mask on the skin,” he said, “So each time [it is worn], the fragrance is unique.”

Officially a men’s fragrance, Terre d’Hermès is absolutely unisex and is accompanied by a range of grooming products, including a hair and body shower gel, shaving foam, perfumed soap and after-shave lotion.

Terre d’Hermès EDT is available from Woolworths.. R1 485 for 50ml and R1 980 for 100ml.

Terre d'Hermès

 

 

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Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles Review

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.

“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”

However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).

IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.

So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?

It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles

Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.