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CHANEL NO 5 CENTENARY: THE JUICE ON AN ICON

Chanel No 5 Centenary

When a perfume turns 100 years old, you can bet it has a story to tell. And it doesn’t get more convoluted and juicier than Chanel No 5. While The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume by Tilar J Mazzeo (Harper Perennial) was published in 2010, it contains many well-researched insights as we celebrate the Chanel No 5 centenary.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

A cultural historian and wine writer, Mazzeo is the author of books such as The Widow Clicquot (HarperCollins) and Back Lane Wineries of Sonoma, Second Edition (Penguin Random House).

As Mazzeo states in the book’s preface, “Much of what is told and retold about its transformation into an international byword for luxury is the stuff of half-truths, confusion, collective fantasy and sheer invention. Sometimes, the truth that those legends obscure is more fantastic than any fiction.”

Starting with Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood in an orphanage, The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is a must-read for anyone wanting to know more about “le monstre” (the monster), as the perfume is known in the industry.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

AU CONTRAIRE

I don’t want to give away too many of the secrets revealed and the myths debunked by Mazzeo, but for those who want a teaser here goes…

Chanel No 5 was not the first fragrance to make use of aldehydes (that distinction belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or). But it is certainly the most well-known, with its liberal use of these synthetics by Russian-born perfumer Ernest Beaux when he created Chanel’s debut scent.

Neither was it the first designer fragrance. Parisian couturier Paul Poiret got there first with Parfums de Rosine Nuit Persane in 1911.

The formula for Chanel No 5 wasn’t stolen from the laboratory of a company owned by her friend and rival François Coty.

Although the designer had a thing for the number five and named her debut fragrance after it, Chanel No 5 wasn’t officially released on May 5, 1921, the fifth day of the fifth month. It appeared quietly on the shelves of her boutiques but was hugely popular from the outset.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

In fact, because of the demand, in 1924, in return for their manufacturing, distribution and marketing expertise, Coco Chanel signed away the majority control (70%) of the perfume side of her business to the Wertheim brothers, Pierre and Paul, who owned the perfume company Bourjois.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

ICONIC SHAPE: The evolution of the design of the bottle over the decades. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

The formation of Les Parfums Chanel meant she would receive 10% of the profits. With the perfume’s considerable profitability, however, she later came to regret this business decision, which helps explain the dubious legal action against her Jewish investors during the Second World War when the Nazis occupied Paris (see interview below).

Despite all the dirty dealings and numerous law cases, the contract was renegotiated in 1947, whereby in exchange for $350 000, 10% of the profits and 2% of the perfume sales worldwide, she would stop using the number five in any of her marketing.

“Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel.”

Later, in the 1950s, Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel in Paris). But the Wertheimer family would own the rights to the fragrance and fashion businesses. That agreement continues to this day, with Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, Pierre’s grandchildren, running the luxury empire.

Although her partners missed several marketing tricks in the 20s, they showed their business acumen during the war. From their new base in the United States, after escaping from France in 1940, they sent former Guerlain president H. Gregory Thomas on a covert mission to Grasse, France, to source the raw materials needed to produce Chanel No 5. He returned with hundreds of kilos of jasmine and rose concrete.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

INTERVIEW WITH TILAR J MAZZEO

What prompted you to write the book?

I came to the book from the perspective of a wine writer, wondering about the relationship between perfume and wine: both aromatic volatiles in alcohol. What made a great perfume and was it similar to a great wine?

Did you have any preconceptions before you started your research?

The other question of the book for me was: is Chanel No 5 really a great perfume or is it great marketing? I began assuming marketing would be a larger part of the equation.

What were you most surprised to find out in your research?

How disastrous the marketing was in the beginning for this fragrance. For example, they decided to launch Chanel No 5 along with a whole series of other numbered fragrances (Chanel No 2, Chanel No 3). And the ads had all of them in the same bottles. It would have sunk any other fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

PERFUME POSE: Gabrielle Chanel in a campaign for Chanel No 5, photographed by François Kollar for Harper’s Bazaar, USA, in 1937, in her Ritz Hotel apartment. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

How much access did the company give you? And what was their response when the book was published?

I did have access to historical documents at Chanel and the jasmine and rose plantations in Grasse. The perfumers at Chanel were also amazingly generous with their time.

I’m not sure about the maison’s view. I think we agreed about the fragrance. In the beginning we probably saw differently Coco Chanel’s World War Two experience, but I suspect we are not really very far apart on that.

Chanel and her German boyfriend [officer Hans Günther von Dincklage] during the war both claimed they were working as double agents for the British with a man named Canaris, and the historical evidence suggests this is probably true.

“The ‘Aryanization’ lawsuit would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.”

I don’t think Chanel was a Nazi spy. She did definitely have a German boyfriend. She did engage during World War Two in an “Aryanization” lawsuit [unsuccessfully suing for ownership of the company, as it had been abandoned], which would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.

With Chanel No 5 celebrating its centenary this year, there’s no doubt, more than ever, it’s more than a perfume, it’s a cultural icon. Would you be able to highlight the most important factor that contributed to that status? 

Every perfumer I’ve ever spoken with, including many of Chanel’s competitors, all say one thing: as a work of modernist art expressed in fragrance, Chanel No 5 is a masterpiece. It does something amazing as a scent by balancing its aldehydes with deep florals. There is something of the tightrope act in the fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

CHARACTER: Cartoonist Sem paid tribute to the success of Chanel No 5 in 1921.

The story of Chanel No 5 is also the story of Coco Chanel. To describe her as complex would be an understatement… 

Indeed. She starts out life as an orphan in a convent, then moves onto being a cabaret showgirl (from there the “Coco” nickname) and the mistress of a series of wealthy men, becomes a celebrated designer very quickly, launches a popular fragrance but almost immediately gives rights over to another company, and spends the next few decades suing her (Jewish) business partners and dating a German during the occupation of Paris.

Your book doesn’t gloss over the more controversial aspects of Coco Chanel’s attempts to regain control of the fragrance business especially during the Nazi occupation of France. Despite this, how has her mystique been maintained?

History is full of men who behaved badly and remained celebrated as artists and geniuses. Picasso, to take a contemporary of Chanel, was a complete cad. Chanel was both an artist and a genius in her metier and as with Picasso, one must divorce her personal character from her art. Her art, both in fashion and fragrance, is breath-taking.

Your book was published in 2010, 11 years before the centenary. What, if anything, would you add to it now?

The fragrance history in the book remains timely and current. The debate about Chanel and the Second World War has intensified since publication in 2010, and I would add to the book now a more expansive context. I am deeply critical of Chanel’s actions during the war in terms of her “Aryanization” legal actions.

However, I don’t think the facts support some of the arguments that were made after my book was published, which castigate her “horizontal collaboration.” I gave that expanded context in the book I wrote after the one on Chanel, which was about the Ritz Hotel in Paris during the occupation [The Hotel on Place Vendôme (HarperCollins)].

Your personal thoughts on Chanel No 5 as a perfume?

I am blind as a bat and cannot carry a tune, but I am blessed or cursed, depending on the circumstances, with an extremely fine nose. It is hard for anyone with that not to admire Chanel No 5 and to love scents. Chanel No 5 is like admiring or not admiring a 1953 Petrus (though with a very different aromatic profile). But some things are qualitatively brilliant. Chanel No 5 and Shalimar are my go-to classic fragrances. Once you appreciate the technical and artistic genius of those perfumes, it’s difficult not to want to spend time with them.

The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume is available to buy here.

 

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Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP Review: All Dressed Up (Perfume-Wise) & Nowhere To Go

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

There are rose perfumes that bludgeon you with their intensity and potency. And there are those that seduce you with their artistry and sophistication, such as Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

It’s one of the earlier releases (2004) from the London-based niche fragrance house’s Signature Collection. And perfectly captures the goal of founder Linda Pilkington (pictured below) “ to combine elements which define true elegance: the quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient”.

Image: ormondejayne.com.

That oriental mood is evident right from the start of this EDP created by Geza Schoen (pictured below), better known recently for Escentric Molecules. Honeyed saffron mingles with rosy pink peppercorns, while date oil brings delicate fruitiness to the composition.

Taif rose is the star of this scent show. Pilkington was enchanted when she visited the Saudi Arabia city. It’s famous for its rose farms which harvest well over 300 million flowers to produce the finest rose oil, according to the Saudi Tourism Authority. Schoen’s treatment of this rose is masterful, balancing its sweet depth, soft powderiness and tea-like qualities with utmost skill. The mood is accentuated by a trio of florals – freesia, jasmine and orange blossom – fresh and sweet at the same time.

Image: www.visitsaudi.com.

The drydown is equally memorable and maintains the sophisticated sweetness. The earthiness of Ugandan vanilla absolute meets the floralcy of broom and muskiness of amber.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was created for special occasions. But seeing that in these Covid third wave times, I don’t have any of those lined up any time soon, I’m being decadent wearing this beauty in my pyjamas as I type these words.

I’m super-keen to try the elixir version of this perfume, which brings Cambodian oud to the mix.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP is available from Galeries de Parfums.

 

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Shaun Leane Jewellery: A Collector Gets Personal

Shaun Leane jewellery

Last month I shared my interview with award-winning jewellery designer Shaun Leane. The Londoner’s collaborations with fashion designer Alexander McQueen set the tone for his evocative work that blurs the boundaries between jewellery, fashion and art.

The opportunity for that interview came about through a mutual friend, André Marais (pictured, below). Their relationship started out as a professional one and over the last 20 years has evolved into a deep friendship.

André probably has one of the biggest private men’s collections of Shaun Leane jewellery. Below, in his own words, he shares some of his favourite pieces and why they have such special meaning for him.

MORE THAN A COLLECTION

I met Shaun Leane in 2001 when I was a member of the De Beers rough diamond sales team in South Africa and the De Beers Shining Light Awards and its empowerment initiative fell under my wing.

Alexander McQueen and Shaun’s fashion / jewellery collaboration was well under way when I asked a London colleague to introduce me to an edgy designer who could inspire aspirant jewellery designers in Southern Africa. To me, it seemed we had to look further afield to break the logjam of thinking local and to rather have the world as one’s horizon. With Shaun’s contribution to our design competition secured, the seeds were sown for an extraordinary 20-year friendship.

YOUR TREAT: Shaun and André at The Beaumont hotel in Mayfair, London.

It must be the greatest gift when one meets a kindred spirit with whom one shares a rhythm in one’s heart, soul and life aesthetic. In my case, to take it further, to a love of Shaun’s fine jewellery and everything it stands for: fierce, tribal, sometimes dangerous, yet pure, uncompromising, with an underlying thread of love, protection and beauty.

“It must be the greatest gift when one meets a kindred spirit with whom one shares a rhythm in one’s heart, soul and life aesthetic.”

It has been inspirational to see Shaun grow as a creator of exceptionally beautiful adornments and to see his growing success on the world stage.

Just think of the Sotheby’s auction of the McQueen collaboration pieces in New York in December 2017. And closer to home, in London, where Shaun has had designs displayed simultaneously in three different divisions of the V&A Museum: jewellery, design and architecture – the rarest feat.

Shaun Leane jewellery

A big connect is our shared space of Shaun always distilling the emotion and meaning of every piece that he designs. It’s amazing that he continues to achieve this within a broad commercial range which, on many levels, has been a diffusion of the McQueen catwalk pieces famously launched in London and Paris.

The appeal for me is that we can go to the dark and vulnerable places in our heart and draw out the symbols of adornment which resonate so strongly within ourselves. In this regard Shaun has created a bespoke 1.5 carat heart-shaped diamond piece for me called “Embrace My Shadow”, but that’s a discussion for another day.

With exquisite black diamond pavé work in white gold, this skull diffused from one of the McQueen catwalk pieces just draws me in. Featured here on the griffin statue, named Rose, at my front door. The toenails were painted by my sister Renée on one of her visits from London. My love of rituals – another story there.

Shaun Leane jewellery

There are days when you just must stack – love the lustre of silver.

Shaun Leane jewellery

Going through a heart stage – connects with my favourite word in the English language: LOVE. A ring in yellow gold with red enamel on the surface done the Shaun Leane way, with thorns around the heart for protection.

Shaun Leane jewellery

Iconic Shaun Leane jewellery: interlocking white and black diamond and gold rings, shown here on a page from the magazine for the fifth De Beers Shining Light Awards 2002 / 2003, which I had asked him to judge. Even in those early days Shaun’s visionary and passionate design aesthetic blew the students away as we travelled around South Africa inspiring aspirant designers.

My De Beers 25-year service award, a gold and diamonds earring, was converted by Shaun into a lapel pin. Diamonds, created before dinosaurs roamed this earth, have dominated my grown-up life.

Shaun Leane jewellery

Shaun understands me so well and captures the essence of who I am with this bespoke Forevermark (De Beers Trust Mark) stud in platinum. The Forevermark (FM) was originally designed to represent the romance and brilliance of a star in the South African night sky, while also mirroring the outline of a diamond. It is one of two diamonds that were cut and polished in the FM shape and only two where the shape is called “Forevermark”. Here, the stud rests on one of my favourite sculptures with the inscription: “Holding one’s other self”.

Shaun Leane jewellery

This trio in gold and diamonds symbolises who I aspire to be: the most beautifully executed cross for spirituality, the horn for edginess and amo ut invenio (Latin for “I love you for who you are” – how can it be otherwise) pendant. “Amo ut invenio” carved on a bench in my kitchen on one of Shaun’s first visits to South Africa – a powerful statement and core to my vision for my home, a haven for me and those close to me.

Shaun Leane jewellery

My all-time favourite concept of Shaun’s done for Valentine’s Day many years ago – Hook My Heart pendant, here in silver and red topaz . Whose heart wouldn’t melt with such a gift?! “HMH” and “SL” carved by Shaun on one of my kitchen benches.

Shaun Leane jewellery

For those edgy Joburg parties, a leather cuff with a sabre in gold and diamonds to fiercely grip the leather in place.

For more information on Shaun Leane jewellery, visit his company website. 

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Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long Review: An Evocative Aquatic Without The Clichés

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

For obvious Covid reasons, travel-inspired perfumes continue to have a compelling appeal. There’s no shortage of vicarious options. But Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long has been particularly attractive to me in recent months.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

Ella K was founded by Sonia Constant in 2018. A senior perfumer at Givaudan, she has created several high-profile fragrances since the start of her career in 2006. Recent creations include Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle, Mugler Angel Nova, Tom Ford Ombré Leather and Narciso Rodriguez Musc Noir For Her.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

SOUGHT AFTER: When not creating perfumes for her own brand, Sonia Constant produces fragrances for companies such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez and Tom Ford. Image: Ella K.

Her niche company is an outlet for her own creativity, beyond the briefs of demanding and perhaps limiting clients. It centres on the adventures of the character Ella K.

From the brand’s launch collection, Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long evokes the memory of sailing on a junk boat in the Unesco Heritage Site bay in north Vietnam (see below).

Image: Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. https://vietnam.travel

It’s the monsoon season, with water everywhere, so this EDP is an aquatic scent, but without the clichés of that genre.

That aquatic vibe comes through right at the start with floral notes of lotus (see below) and water lily. The perfumer makes the most of their fresh and airy wateriness. There’s more floralcy in the way of rich notes of cyclamen and magnolia, which bring on the sensual humidity. Apparently, there’s a note of rhubarb in the mix, but I don’t pick it up. Clean musk adds the finishing touch in the drydown.

Image: Jay Kastor / unsplash.com.

Pluie Sur Ha Long isn’t the first fragrance I’ve tried from Ella K. Like Poème de Sagano, Cri du Kalahari, Epupa mon Amour and Baiser de Florence, it translates its inspiration into luxuriant and expressive reality. And still leaves plenty to the imagination.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

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Roja Amber Aoud Parfum Review: Busy But Beautiful

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

No doubt about it, oud has been the biggest trend in fragrance for some time. Correction. It’s moved from a trend to staple in perfumery, with whole brands devoted to this most precious and tricky of ingredients (for example, Fragrance du Bois). More than most, British perfumer Roja Dove has proven adept at showcasing its multifaceted beauty with releases that include Roja Aoud Parfum, Roja Musk Aoud Parfum, Roja Sweetie Aoud Parfum and Roja Amber Aoud Parfum.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

The latter has been particularly popular. And for good reason. It shows Dove’s time in the Middle East (three years, according to the brand website) to familiarise himself with the intricacies of oud was time well spent.

This 2012 release has a similar structure to the other Roja Aouds I’ve tried – citrus opening + floral heart + dense drydown.

IMMERSIVE: Oud master Roja Dove.

There’s a brief barely noticeable citrusy-fresh opening, courtesy of notes of lemon, bergamot and lime. Voluptuous rose de mai then makes an appearance, honey-ish powderiness to the fore. Its fruitiness is accentuated by notes of fig and ylang-ylang.

As always with Roja fragrances, there’s a lot going on in the drydown, with 11 officially listed notes. The oud in question is rich, smooth and slightly animalic, but without the skank. It’s fleshed out with the sweetness of spicy cinnamon and leathery saffron.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is everything you want a premium oud to be: authentic, warm, cosy and extravagant. With the prominence given to the queen of florals, perhaps it would have been more accurate to call it “Rose Aoud”. But there are already umpteen variations on that theme and Dove has created an exclusive Roja Taif Aoud for Fortnum & Mason. I quibble…

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

Although a tad too sweet for me, the hype around Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is justified. At R12 300 (over $850 / £600 / €700) for 100ml, it doesn’t come cheap. But then it is competing in what I call the league of “super-ouds” (for example, Frédéric Malle The Night and Fragrance du Bois Sahraa).

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Diptyque Orphéon Review: Is It Another Classic-In-The-Making?

Diptyque Orphéon

This year sees Diptyque marking its 60th anniversary. The Paris-based niche brand which started out as a bazaar at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain has a lot to celebrate. Since its founding in 1961 by theatre director and set designer Yves Coueslant, painter Desmond Knox-Leet and interior designer Christiane Gautrot, many of its perfumes and candles have become classics. As part of the festivities, Diptyque Orphéon was released earlier this year.

CREATIVE TRIO: Diptyque co-founders Yves Coueslant, Christiane Gautrot and Desmond Knox-Leet. Image: Diptyque.

Diptyque Eau Rihla EDP has also just been released, but is exclusive to the Middle East market.

Paying homage to the company’s heritage, Diptyque Orphéon takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.

This EDP opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.

Diptyque Orphéon

With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. Especially, as I haven’t seen the inside of a drinking spot for quite some time, thanks to Covid. But perhaps I’m being too literal and vicarious in this expectation.

It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s growing on me the more I wear it.

Diptyque Orphéon

On a side note, it’s interesting to see Diptyque becoming more of a lifestyle brand as part of the celebrations. New ranges include pyjamas with prints inspired by some of their best-selling fragrances (Philosykos, Ombre, Do Son, L’Eau, Eau Rose) and decor items such as tumblers, plates and placemats (see below). All of which make sense, considering Diptyque’s artistic and bazaar heritage.

Diptyque Orphéon is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Image: Diptyque.

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Shaun Leane Interview: “I Like My Work To Portray All Our Emotions”

Shaun Leane

Image: Edwin S Freyer.

I normally focus on fragrance in this blog, but when I got the opportunity to interview jewellery designer Shaun Leane via a mutual friend, how could I say no.

The Londoner first made his mark in the 1990s in spectacular style with his unforgettable pieces for Alexander McQueen’s visionary fashion collections, including Highland Rape, The Hunger, Untitled and The Overlook.

Shaun Leane

Image: Edwin S Freyer.

At the time, I was captivated by the visceral drama of these pieces in brass, silver and stainless steel, although I didn’t know about the person behind the creative and technical brilliance.

Shaun Leane

HIGH IMPACT: Shaun Leane’s works for Alexander McQueen pushed him beyond the realms of his training in goldsmithery. Images: Ann Ray.

Since then, the 51-year-old’s gone on to produce an oeuvre that’s unmistakably Shaun Leane, blurring the boundaries between jewellery, fashion and art. Founded in 1999, his eponymous company offers fine jewellery, engagement rings and bespoke services, among others.  His clients have included Boucheron, De Beers, Asprey, Swarovski, Kate Moss and Sarah Jessica Parker.

Shaun Leane

PRICKLY PERFECTION: A bespoke Shaun Leane thistle brooch from 2006. Alexander McQueen commissioned a pair, one for him and the other for Sarah Jessica Parker, who accompanied him to the Met Gala.

The beauty of his work is best said by one of his clients, Daphne Guinness, on shaunleane.com: “Genius lies in his work’s paradox: at once tenacious and bold and technically intricate. There is beauty in the balance: that struck between alpha and omega, tribalism and sleek modernity. It seems born of and outside of time, simultaneously conjuring fairy tales and science fiction.”

Not bad for a boy who dropped out of school to learn jewellery design in a youth training scheme and then pursued a seven-year apprenticeship to become a classically trained goldsmith (with a focus on restoring Victorian jewellery).

Shaun Leane

LABOUR OF GLOVE: Shaun Leane took four years to create the white gold evening glove, Contra Mundum, for Daphne Guinness. It features 4 290 diamonds. Image: Nick Knight.

Congrats on your business anniversary last year. That’s a remarkable achievement. To commemorate this, a book was published, which is a huge undertaking in itself. How did that come about?

The book was a celebration of 21 years of the House of Shaun Leane, it was my 50th birthday last year and also the 10th anniversary of the death of my dear friend, the late Alexander McQueen. These pivotal moments made me want to reflect on the beauty of the different facets of my career that shaped and helped me evolve to be the designer, craftsman and house we are today.

The book is a real demonstration of what can be achieved if the fear of the impossible is removed. It’s a visual journey of how I embraced my goldsmith training and skills and used that as a tool to push boundaries in the concept of jewellery design, whether that be in classical jewellery, fashion or architecture. I created a style and identity which I am proud to say I have carried through to this day and have adapted to the times we are in.

Over the years it has been incredibly flattering to speak with students who now reference my work. It fills me with pride to think that this book could become part of a blossoming new jeweller’s collection and inspire and provoke them, as much as I am by the beautiful books in my own library.

SCULPTURAL STATEMENTS: New works, all available on shaunleane.com.

How has the coronavirus situation affected business?

The advantage is that we are a multi-faceted company and have various channels ranging from retail and wholesale to online and bespoke. With the pandemic, retail and wholesale have been challenged, but online and bespoke are thriving, as in a time of uncertainty, people want to invest, financially and emotionally, in meaningful and sentimental jewellery.

Shaun Leane

BEAUTIFUL BUG: A bespoke Shaun Leane beetle brooch.

You’ve won the UK Jewellery Designer of the Year award four times. Does that come with its own pressure and expectations?

It is extremely rewarding and reflective. It shows me how grateful I am that I stayed true to my vision and aesthetic, and that I have a great team who also share the same vision. I have always had a passion, believed in the work I do and persisted with integrity. Receiving these awards make me proud of what my team and I have created over the last 20 years.

“These current times are allowing me to have space without noise – to focus on projects I have wanted to tap into for a while.”

What can we expect creatively from you this year?

These current times are allowing me to have space without noise – to focus on projects and collections I have wanted to tap into for a while, which will be revealed soon.

You’ve created many high-profile pieces over the years, which are great for publicity. But a boy still needs to pay his bills. How do you balance the more commercial side of the business with the more creative side?

When I first approached creating collections in 1997, I wanted to fuse the traditional goldsmithing skills I had learned in the previous 10 years with the energy and aesthetic of modern jewellery I was creating for Alexander McQueen. The works I created for McQueen on the runway portrayed a new woman, a new energy in jewellery which reflected the persona and confidence of an individual. I wanted to translate that same design and energy into pieces that were more accessible to be worn away from the runway.

Shaun Leane

ANIMAL INSTINCT: Shaun Leane’s Tusk Earring for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 1996 show The Hunger.

The theme of protection and contrasts between fragility and strength are common themes in your work. Do you still feel the need for armour of some sort?

My work demonstrates femininity and delicacy, and the energy of armour is to portray strength and protection. As we humans have many facets, I like my work to portray all our emotions.

Tell us more about your South African connection and how the country has influenced your work.

I have always celebrated the light, space and energy of Africa. I’m fascinated by different cultures and societies around the world and take great pleasure in having been able to highlight and celebrate so many techniques and aesthetics in my work.

Shaun Leane

SOUTH AFRICAN INSPIRATION: Shaun Leane used the porcupine quills that he found on a trip to the country in 1996 to create these earrings for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2003 show. Image: Ann Ray.

Creativity is one thing. Running a business is another. Has the latter come easily to you?

When you are a young designer full of passion and drive, you want to create and create! Your business knowledge develops and is driven by the passion to execute your vision. So, for me, learning the business was a necessity and, fortunately, felt natural to me. There is creativity in all skills and running a business is one of them.

“There is creativity in all skills and running a business is one of them. “

What do you miss most about working and your friendship with Alexander McQueen?

Not only do I miss the adventure with my closest friend and all the fun that comes with that, but I also miss the passion, excitement and pure drive. I miss the camaraderie of two London boys who had a voice together to inspire and provoke. The platform McQueen had was one of creative freedom and a stage to have a strong free voice. It is an energy I still carry with me and feed into every piece of jewellery I make today.

Shaun Leane

CREATIVE ENERGY: Shaun Leane with Alexander McQueen. Image: Ann Ray.

In 2017, a Sotheby’s auction featured 46 of your bespoke works created for, among others, Isabella Blow, McQueen and Sarah Jessica Parker. Was it easy to “let go” of these pieces?

Yes, it was time for the pieces to be seen and shared, and to inspire and provoke new rising jewellery and fashion designers. My vision was for these pieces to be shown in museums all over the world to continue the energy Lee [Alexander McQueen] and I created, not to collect dust in an archive storage room. The pieces are celebrated in some of the world’s most prestigious museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and the V&A in London.

Shaun Leane

FASHION MEETS JEWELLERY: The Coiled Corset for Alexander McQueen’s The Overlook show sold for $807 000 at the auction. Image: Ann Ray.

You designed Princess Beatrice’s engagement and wedding rings. That must have come with all sorts of protocols working with the british royal family…

I have worked with royalty and celebrities for many years, so privacy and protocols come to me naturally. Bespoke projects should always be experienced under a blanket of privacy and mystery and then a beautiful unveil. Working with Beatrice and Edo [her husband] was like working with any other couple who are in love and excited for what’s to come. It was a complete joy to be able to be part of their memorable occasion.

Shaun Leane

As a perfume blogger, I was fascinated to read in the book that fragrance has also played a role in your life, from emptying your mother’s favourites as a child. Is that still the case? 

What I love about jewellery is these fine precious sculptures hold memories and emotions throughout our lives – they touch one of our deepest senses. Fragrance also holds this beautiful connection for us. In a second, a scent can fill your mind with memories and associations of a place, person or time.

For more info on the book Shaun Leane (ACC Art Books), visit his company’s website. 

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Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites: Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso Di Toscana EDT + L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP + Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga EDP + Amouage Jubilation Man XXV EDP + L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup EDT

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.

While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.

“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”

This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.

Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT

This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.

An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP 

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP

Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.

Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP

Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.

I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.

Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT: 40 Years Of The Loud & Proud 80s Icon

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

I recently posted about some much-needed cheerful cheapies. I deliberately left Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT off that list. With its 40th anniversary this year, it warrants a post all of its own.

It was the launch fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that was originally founded in the 1960s and that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map . The store’s owner Fred Hayman launched Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”. Echoing the awning outside the store, the yellow-and-white box proclaimed the boldness of the scent in no uncertain terms.

From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, this Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. In a very 80s way. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants at the time due to its overpowering style. Which just adds to its allure. For me, anyway.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting.

“This Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious.”

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

This generous fragrance keeps giving till the end. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla and sandalwood notes.

Four decades and several changes in ownership later, my sources at Elizabeth Arden (which now has the licence for the brand) tell me there’s nothing special planned for the anniversary in the way of limited editions, etc.

That suits me fine, as long as Giorgio Beverly Hills is available at my local pharmacy on the budget shelves for the price of R550 or so (the equivalent of less than $40).

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

 

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Thibaud Crivelli (Of Maison Crivelli) Interview: “The Focus Is Not On Myself, But On What Other People Will Feel”

Thibaud Crivelli

It’s intriguing to see buzz (as opposed to hype) develop around a perfume brand. And there’s plenty of that when it comes to Maison Crivelli. Founded in 2018 by Thibaud Crivelli, the Paris-based niche company focuses on fragrances inspired by his experiences.

When Thibaud Crivelli moved to China in 2006 and lived in various Asian countries, he was exposed to raw material plantations. This has given the entrepreneur / explorer unique insights into perfumery.

Thibaud Crivelli

Maison Crivelli arrived at South Africa’s leading niche retailer Skins Cosmetics late last year, just when I was starting to see it more on Instagram. I knew I had to interview Thibaud Crivelli after trying four of his fragrances. Please see my reviews of these at the end of this post.

Before I emailed him the questions, I had an intro Zoom chat with Thibaud Crivelli. He came across as being approachable, articulate and passionate about his company and perfume in general.

Thibaud Crivelli

All images supplied by Maison Crivelli, except for Santal Volcanique, Bois Datchai, Absinthe Boreale and Papyrus Moleculaire, which are my own.

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, but that’s not Maison Crivelli’s approach. How is your perspective different?

Perfume is a living experience and changes with time and different skin types. But more than this, our perception of perfume will also change depending on the environment we are in. All sensorial elements are connected and create a unique perfume experience.

“I chose not to reveal where I was to enable other people to connect with perfume and live their own personal journey.” – Thibaud Crivelli

Perfume is always personal, but sometimes it can be difficult to explain. So it was important for me to guide people into a deeper, more intimate and better understanding of perfume. The focus is not on myself, but on what other people will feel.

Each perfume is inspired by surprising experiences of discovery that I have lived. However, I chose not to reveal where I was to enable other people to connect with perfume and live their own personal journey. In addition, what matters to me is not where I am or where I go, but rather how I live each moment. The experience matters much more than the location.

When did you know you wanted to launch your own perfume house?

This has always been a childhood dream. I started to connect with perfume ingredients at a young age. I also grew up in a family of entrepreneurs as my dad is pharmacist and created his own cosmetic range.

And how did you go about it?

I started by myself and then gradually initiated collaborations with various partners (perfumers, suppliers, distributors, etc). For any entrepreneurial venture, the key aspect is to be fully aware of what we can do ourselves, and what we cannot do. For the latter, it’s vital to work with partners we trust and who understand our expectations and mission.

Thibaud Crivelli

Have perfumes always appealed to you?   

I have always had a strong connection with perfume ingredients, mostly thanks to a connection with nature across all seasons. My understanding of perfume became more accurate when I lived in Asia, as I got the opportunity to visit plantations and markets. The last step of my personal fragrance journey has been to discover more the aspect of creation.

Thibaud Crivelli

Your wide travels have exposed you to the wonderful world of raw materials. Why are they so important to you?

Raw materials are a fundamental part of perfumery – they are the basis to work with. A deep understanding of raw materials is not essential to enjoy a fragrance. However, understanding raw materials is essential when it comes to creating and working with perfumers directly. Exploring areas where raw materials are cropped has helped me to discover them in a better and more sensorial way – not just in a technical way.

Thibaud Crivelli

You describe your fragrances as “slow perfumes”. What do you mean by that phrase?

Taking time is an important aspect of perfume creation and discovery. We take the necessary time to remember the most surprising experiences of perfume discovery, find the best perfumers, create the scent, source the best raw materials (which are sometimes even hand-picked to preserve the best quality). Eventually we also invite everyone to take a bit more time than usual to discover perfume in a more qualitative way.

Thibaud Crivelli

What’s been your greatest challenge since launching in 2018?

Increasing brand awareness, as there are lots of new launches every year.

You run the brand’s IG page and personally replied to my initial contact there. Is that a conscious choice? How large is your team?

We have a team of five people, but it is important for me to have direct contact with clients and the teams in the stores. I am happy to take the time to keep in touch with everyone.

“It is important for me to have direct contact with clients and the teams in the stores. I am happy  to keep in touch with everyone.”

I love all the Maison Crivelli fragrances I’ve tried so far.
Papyrus Moleculaire is particularly distinctive. Why did you choose Leslie Girard to create it?

Leslie understood our brief instantly and she is very skilled at creating woody notes with long-lastingness and sillage. On top she is a lovely person and the connection has always been incredible.

Thibaud Crivelli

INCREDIBLE CONNECTION: Leslie Girard created Papyrus Moleculaire for Maison Crivelli. Thibaud Crivelli admires her deftness with woody notes.

How do your brief the perfumers you choose to work with?   

I narrate the experiences I have lived and send a mood-board composed of photographs, videos, sounds, colours and textures. The objective is to translate all the sensorial elements of that moment and encapsulate them in a perfume.

Thibaud Crivelli

IN THE MOOD: Thibaud Crivelli’s perfumers include, clockwise from top left, Bertrand Duchaufour, Stephanie Bakouche, Nathalie Feisthauer and Dorothée Piot.

As a self-proclaimed perfectionist, what would you like to improve on Maison Crivelli?

We always do our best to work on the originality and the balance of the perfumes. The most difficult aspect is to reach the moment when the perfumer and myself both know that we have finalised the creation.

You have launched a new fragrance in February 2021. What can you tell us about it? Any other developments we should be aware of? 

The new creation is named Osmanthe Kōdoshān. It is inspired by a discovery of osmanthus flowers on the slopes of a mystical mountain shrouded in mist. We will also soon launch a new collection of perfume extracts in collaboration with Quentin Bisch.

Thibault Crivelli

MAISON CRIVELLI REVIEWS

One would expect a fragrance inspired by “the experience of the scent of scorched sandalwood on the slopes of an erupting volcano” to be unusual and intriguing. And that’s exactly what the brand’s 2018 debut and current best-seller created by Richard Ibanez delivers in abundance. Warm spiciness (ginger and cardamom) mingles with a rich, uncompromising and almost burnt take on sandalwood that mellows with coffee absolute and musks as it develops sensually on the skin.

Thibault Crivelli

Maison Crivelli Papyrus Moleculaire EDP

Papyrus is a surprisingly common note in perfumery, but there’s nothing common about its treatment in this 2020 release. Leslie Girard successfully translates inspiration – “discovering papyrus root powder with a group of tattooed women smoking cigarillos” – into vibrant reality. Fresh spiciness (coriander and elemi) gives way to cuddly tobacco while the headline note is powdered and leathered to perfection.

Thibaud Crivelli

Maison Crivelli Absinthe Boreale EDP

Absinthe’s reputation precedes it, but there’s no danger of hallucinating under the influence of this friendly 2019 release created by Nathalie Feisthauer. There’s no missing the artemisia (wormwood), the herb used to give flavour and aroma to the notorious spirit, but it’s softened with a clean mix of lavender, mint, lemon, balsam fir and musk. A beautifully cool composition that deftly balances its herbal and aromatic aspects.

Thibault Crivelli

Maison Crivelli Bois Datchai EDP

I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release created by Dorothée Piot. The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness. The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli. Another cuppa please!

Thibaud Crivelli

For more info on Maison Crivelli, visit the brand’s website.