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Nathalie Feisthauer Interview: The Diversity Of Independence

Nathalie Feisthauer

Some people you don’t even have to meet to get a sense of them. Nathalie Feisthauer is one of those individuals. And I use the word “individual” purposefully because the 30-year+ career of the Paris-based master perfumer has been defined by unconventionality.

Nathalie Feisthauer

From her education at Roure Bertrand Dupont (now the Givaudan Perfumery School) to creations for prestigious brands such as Cartier, Comme des Garçons, Hermès and Etat Libre d’Orange (see below for more), the perfume path of Nathalie Feisthauer has been one of not following the norm.

  • Aramis Havana EDT (1994)
  • Versace Blonde EDT (1995)
  • Pierre Balmain Vent Vert EDT (1999)
  • Cartier Must de Cartier Pour Homme EDT (2000)
  • Oriflame Giordani Gold Original EDP (2002)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Tattoo EDT (2007)
  • Lancôme Hypnôse Senses EDP (2009)
  • Amouage Honour Man EDP (2011)
  • Ferrari Essence Oud EDP (2012)
  • Etat Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces EDP (2013)
  • Van Cleef & Arpels Rêve EDP (2013)
  • Comme des Garçons Blue Cedrat EDP (2013)
  • Carolina Herrera Oud Couture EDP (2015)
  • Aedes de Venustas Pélargonium EDP (2017)
  • MDCI Parfums Cuir Cavalier EDP (2019)
  • Nomenclature Fluo–ral EDP (2019)
  • Puredistance No. 12 Perfume (2021)

After working for major fragrance companies such as Givaudan (1983-2008) and Symrise (2008-2014), her strong streak of independence found expression in the formation of her own company, LAB-Scent. Nathalie Feisthauer now focuses on producing idiosyncratic perfumes for niche brands such as A-chromiq, Alendor, Burdin and Maison Rebatchi.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Aramis Havana EDT

IMAGE: Aramis.

I also get the impression she’s quite playful when she answers one last question at the start of her three-week vacation on the Italian island of Ischia. When I say somewhat jealously, “What an inspiring place to be”, she replies, “Totally, beautiful, farniente [Italian for “doing nothing”], pool, sea…”

Nathalie Feisthauer - Cartier Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire EDT

In this interview, we chat about the influence of YSL Opium, company codes and the benefits of going independent.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m wearing my new creations, some of which will soon be launched on the market.

The decision to become a perfumer is often an accumulation of events. Anything that stands out for you?

The discovery of Opium by Yves Saint Laurent was a life-changing revelation for me. It was the moment I understood my vocation.

IMAGE: Yves Saint Laurent.

When you started studying perfumery at Roure in 1983, it was unusual not to come from a perfumery family. Did that different background make it more challenging for you?

Yes, it was challenging and even more magical and new for me because I didn’t come from Grasse, and I wasn’t used to seeing and smelling all these beautiful raw materials. So it was like heaven when I arrived at the school. At the same time, it allowed me to understand the codes of companies and their functioning.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Oriflame Giordani Gold Original EDP

IMAGE: Oriflame.

What was your fine fragrance debut? What are your thoughts on it now?

My first fine fragrance was Elysium for Clarins [released in 1993], a floral-fruity fragrance for women. I composed it in New York at the age of 26, and it was a dream coming true. It was, and still is, an original fragrance, of which I am very proud.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Clarins Elysium EDT

HAPPY PLACE: Clarins Elysium EDT was Nathalie Feisthauer’s fine fragrance debut in 1993. IMAGE: Cleopatra’s Boudoir.

How do you approach each new perfume project?

I read the brief, taking the time to see what it evokes to me, whether it is images, landscapes, smells, or textures. Then I begin to formulate and smell my tests before refining them step by step. I propose tests according to the brief, but also “diagonals”, meaning smells not requested but resulting from instantaneous inspiration.

“I propose tests according to the brief, but also ‘diagonals’, meaning smells not requested but resulting from instantaneous inspiration.” – Nathalie Feisthauer 

Nathalie Feisthauer - Amouage Honour Man EDP

Your creations show an incredible range of versatility. Was that deliberate?

Yes, I like to diversify my creations and propose original perfumes, different from those offered on the current market. Nowadays, consumers are asking to stand out from the crowd and want to wear innovative, original, never-smelled perfumes. This is what I propose to them through my creations.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Comme des Garcons Blue Cedrat EDP

IMAGE: Comme des Garçons.

I have many favourite creations of yours. But let’s focus on one in particular: Hermès Eau deS Merveilles from 2004. What was unusual about its creation?

I created it with Ralf Schwieger, and its particularity is that it was created around ambergris, an animal note embellished by other woody, hesperidised, spicy and musky notes.

It was a very innovative perfume at the time. Through it, I paid tribute to Véronique Gautier, the artistic director of Hermès who had the courage to launch this fragrance.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Hermès Eau des Merveilles

How did you approach the creation of Van Cleef & Arpels Gardénia Pétale EDP (2009) in terms of using synthetics and naturals?

I wanted to capture the aerial, humid and tropical facets of this majestic flower. The real gardenia scent is heavy. I worked more on the texture of the petals. In this fragrance, there is no gardenia natural oil.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Van Cleef & Arpels Gardenia Petale EDP

When did you decide to go independent? What was your thinking behind that decision?

I created LAB-Scent eight years ago, after working for 30 years in corporate companies that trained me a lot and allowed me to become a professional perfumer.

Becoming independent was an aspiration for personal fulfilment. It allows me to be self-employed, to make a name for myself thanks to my creations, and to propose original fragrances. Furthermore, I like the relationship it creates with brand art directors that I didn’t have before.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Aedes de Venustas Pelargonium EDP

Why do you prefer to focus on niche brands now?

The niche market is less codified and allows much more creativity. Some customers ask for very original perfumes and from the four corners of the world.

I like this diversity, this freedom of creation, the possibility of using more prestigious materials and claiming them, which mass perfumery doesn’t do, and having discussions from a creative point of view.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Puredistance No 12 Perfume

IMAGE: Puredistance.

I’m loving your 2021 creation for Maison Crivelli, Lys Sølaberg. Was it easy to translate Thibaud Crivelli’s experience into olfactory reality?

Thibaud Crivelli is a man with a thirst for adventure who has travelled extensively and loves nature in its raw state.

Working on this fragrance, I interpreted his memory of the Faroe Islands, Denmark. I wanted to transcribe their remarkable beauty, with the sun shimmering on the sea, the sweet and smoky aspect of the lilies, the power of the wind, the mineral stone, and the darker, more humid aspect of the peat. I wanted to convey the idea of mankind faced with rugged nature.

“It evolves towards a note that evokes the power of the elements, which is almost telluric, and not at all fragile.” – Nathalie Feisthauer 

And so, there is a real duality in this creation. It opens with a beautiful pearlescent light, then evolves towards a note that evokes the power of the elements, which is almost telluric, and not at all fragile.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Maison Crivelli Lys Solaberg Extrait de Parfum

It develops with contrasts between the smoky, spicy lily facet, the radiant, slightly alcoholised quince, and a peaty/woody facet provided by the amber woods and an overdose of Ambroxan, as well as an absolute of roasted oak shavings, which adds an incredibly sensual patina to the accord, evoking the thatched roof houses typical of the region.

I haven’t tried it yet, but Zoologist Cow, which was released this year, sounds wonderful. Tell us a bit more about it.

Zoologist perfumes are fascinated by animals. They capture their particularities and transforms them into unusual, beautiful, funny, even shocking perfumes.

Cow is a green-floral fragrance with an apple and sage head; a milky, heliotropic and floral heart; and amber-woody-musky base notes. It evokes a green pasture with peaceful cows.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Zoologist Cow Extrait de Parfum

It’s an original perfume you’ll either love or hate. You must try it on your skin to see if you like it or not. If you do, it is soft and addictive and could become your perfume for life.

When you’re not creating perfumes, what will we find you doing?

I enjoy travelling, cooking and spending time with my kids. They make me discover new smells and flavours and stimulate my creativity. I also love being in my garden in Montmartre.

Nathalie Feisthauer

 

 

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Best L’Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances From The Original Niche Pioneer

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

Before niche was even a thing, there was L’Artisan Parfumeur. Fact. With the hype around big-name niche brands, it’s easy to forget the company led the way and has a remarkable selection of classics and more recent releases for those with more discerning tastes. So there was no shortage of options for this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances post.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

After founding the French beauty business Sisley in 1972, Jean-François Laporte went on to create the Paris-based house in 1976. From its first release in 1978, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc, its reputation for innovation and quality was sown.

NEW BUSINESS MODEL: Jean-François Laporte founded the Paris-based house in 1976. IMAGE: Fragrantica.

While its founder is no longer with us and the brand now falls under the umbrella of the Spanish company Puig, it offers excellent value in a market increasingly driven by a race to the top (price).

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances?

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÛRE ET MUSC EDT* (JEAN-FRANÇOIS LAPORTE)

A brand’s debut should set the tone for future releases, and that’s exactly what this 1978 release did in original style. It’s a bona fide musk classic.

It opens with the bright citrus tones of lemon. The herbal aromatics of basil is also discernible. The tart fruitiness of blackberry – then a novelty, but now a staple in perfumery – is enhanced by clean white musks in the drydown, while oakmoss gives it a dash of earthiness.

The 1993 version created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême EDP, with its blackcurrant and blackberry emphasis, is also worth exploring.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

The superb Diptyque Philosykos (1996) is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig fragrances. But credit where it’s due: the first fig fragrance, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same top perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti.

Launched in 1994, this EDT brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green style with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe honeyed fig. A delicious milky, woody ambience is created through a combo of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

What a classic, both in terms of its influence and timeless beauty. The 2004 follow-up, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP, also created by Olivia Giacobetti, presents a more intense, sunnier variation on the original theme.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was released in 1999. A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience.

Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and an amber accord add sweetness to the mix, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this top-notch Olivia Giacobetti creation is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)

While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).

Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.

Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release will tell you all you need to know. The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre EDT, is a standard-setter in the amber category.

Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth.

Old-school glamour at its very best.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note, with its smokiness.

The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence!

Want more delicious olfactory travels? Then hunt down the sadly discontinued L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore EDP. Inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to Istanbul, this 2010 release features accents of fruit, leather, iris and Turkish delight.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu EDT

UNIQUE: Timbuktu is a personal favourite in this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances selection.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This 2006 release is not one of those fragrances.

Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, opens this EDP with its bitter herbaceousness. The aromatic effect is carried through to the heart with the addition of spicy notes such as earthy nutmeg and powdery star anise. It settles on a woody base of pine tree needles and fir balsam notes, with the smoke of incense adding the finishing touch.

Instead of serving an obvious shot of absinthe, it cleverly creates a mood that’s full of intrigue and nuances.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AL OUDH EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2009 release takes its cue from the perfumer’s travels to the Middle East, which partly explains the name of the fragrance.

It opens in powerfully spicy mode – notes of caraway seed and cardamom are prominent in the blend. With the sweet fruit of dates in the air, there’s no doubt you’re in for an oriental treat. I wouldn’t blame you for missing the floral notes, including rose, in the heady mix of resinous oud, smoky incense and sweet ’n spicy myrrh. It gets more complex and dirtier in the drydown with animalic notes of civetone and leather.

It’s exotic stuff, in the best sense of the word, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. If I’m being really fussy, I might have called it L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Spicy Oudh, but that doesn’t take away from its beauty.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CALIGNA EDP* (DORA BAGHRICHE)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier is an undoubted fig fragrance classic and while this 2013 take on the fruit might not be as immediately appealing, it’s still worth sniffing out for its intriguing vibe.

An ode to Grasse (Caligna means “to flirt” in Provencal dialect, according to the brand website), it opens with the gentle sweetness of fig. A large dose of clary sage infuses the scent with fresh herbal muskiness. A softly green interpretation of jasmine leads the way to the drydown featuring the woody aromatics of pine.

It’s not the usual scent but typically L’Artisan Parfumeur in its inspiration and execution.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout.

Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MIRABILIS 60 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

The brand’s La Botanique Collection, with its appropriately shaped bottles, doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. So this 2016 release is my not-so-subtle way of drawing your attention to it.

On paper it’s a seemingly straightforward amber composition, but it casts a mysteriously sensual spell when wearing it. That’s largely due to the olibanum, with its complex facets (from fruity and spicy to resinous). It’s blended with musk, Ambroxan and woody notes to irresistible effect.

Also look out for the range’s Arcana Rosa 9 EDP (thorny rose alert!) and Obscuratio 25 EDP (ylang-ylang meets patchouli), both created by the same perfumer.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur 60 Mirabilis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

L’Artisan Parfumeur added eaux de cologne to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results. Inspired by Claude Monet’s masterpiece Impressionist work, Au Bord de L’Eau takes me away to rural France, albeit fleetingly. It’s an eau de cologne, after all.

So it’s about clean and calming delicacy, from the fresh citrus opening notes of bergamot and lemon intermingled with strokes of herbal rosemary, powdery violet and aromatic cedarwood.

I also recommend Sur l’Herbe Eau de Cologne, inspired by Edouard Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, if you’re looking for a hit of sunny neroli freshness.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR HISTOIRE D’ORANGERS EDP* (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Perfumer Marie Salamagne had the pleasure of visiting the Souss Valley in Morocco, one of the country’s main agricultural regions, and this 2017 release captures that memory with delightful detail.

It opens with the slightly bitter citrus hues of neroli, with the greenery of tea in support. And then onto the star of the scent show: orange blossom, softly sweet and its natural warmth enhanced by white musk and Ambroxan. A touch of nutty tonka bean in the drydown evokes the fruit of the argan tree, which is endemic to Morocco.

Striking a deft balance between freshness and warmth, softness and sensuality, it’s the olfactory equivalent of taking a walk through an orchard on a sunny day.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MANDARINA CORSICA EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

A 2018 gourmand that’s well worth checking out. And this time, we’re in Corsica and in the accomplished hands of perfumer Quentin Bisch. Who could say no?

Inspired by a caramelised mandarin he tasted on the French island as a child, he captures the sensation of this candy by presenting different aspects of the citrus fruit: juicy, zesty and sunny but with more longevity than expected, and given the gourmand factor with notes of caramel and tonka bean.

A note of immortelle, with its sweet honey tones, adds to the edibility of it all, while soft floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom complete the idyllic picture.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CHAMP DE FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE* (ANNE FLIPO)

Did you say light and bright? Then this 2018 addition to the company’s eau de cologne range is calling your name.

It opens with fresh notes of pear and grapefruit, beautifully balanced between soft fruity sweetness and citric bitterness. There’s more freshness from floral notes of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley and white cedar, while musk brings clean powderiness to the drydown,

With its spring inspiration, it’s perfect for those days when only subtle and discreet sophistication will do.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Champ de Fleurs EDC

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MONT DE NARCISSE EDP (ANNE FLIPO)

This 2019 release goes deep and dark, although you wouldn’t expect it from the subdued opening featuring the rosiness of pink pepper, with hints of crisp bergamot and spicy cardamom in the background.

It takes things up a notch with the appearance of a note of narcissus. Reserved at first and then increasingly animalic. Notes of osmanthus and plum bring a fruity aspect.

But what really makes this EDP stand out is the dense drydown with its smoky and sensual leatheriness.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for something dark and mysterious.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR BANA BANANA EDP* (CÉLINE ELLENA)

If you’d asked me a month ago if I’d get a thrill from smelling like ripe bananas, I’d have said something like, “Not particularly.” But that was before I’d tried L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP. Created by Céline Ellena (daughter of the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena and an accomplished perfumer in her own right), this 2019 release is fabulously flamboyant.

The opening is deceptively reserved, with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. And then a rich and ripe banana effect through the skilful use of synthetics and naturals (including jasmine at its most fruity). The skin and fruit vibe continues through to the amber accord drydown featuring tonka bean and musk at the fore.

Un vrai delice!

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP

*All these best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Interview With Steyn Grobler, Founder of Aqualis: “I’ve Learned To Be Very Collaborative With People”

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis

I love discovering brands that have something different to offer. Even better if they have a South African connection. Both of which Aqualis has in abundance. The London-based niche company was founded by Steyn Grobler in 2015 (he left the country at the age of 15).

BEHIND THE SCREENS: Steyn Grobler getting ready for his presentation at the Skins Cosmetics store in Johannesburg.

The 36-year-old has put his master’s in business economics and luxury perfumes experience – including head of production and business development at Boadicea The Victorious and sales director for Ex Nihilo – to effective use.

Steyn Grobler was in South Africa in February to promote Aqualis at the various Skins Cosmetics stores. We didn’t get a chance to chat properly then, so did the Zoom thing a few months later in which we covered everything from niche inspiration to his DIY ethos.

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Display

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m wearing a fragrance that I’m testing. Generally, when I’m wearing a fragrance it’s something that’s been made for me.

It’s got this blackcurrant and bergamot top note, then this incredibly beautiful amber, patchouli base. It’s not quite ready yet. It hasn’t got the depth and character it needs in the base. So I’m going to be briefing the perfumer later today to give him my feedback.

If your question is what kind of perfumes I like to wear… I’m a big lover of gourmands, fresh fragrances and heavy ambers. Hate fougères. Just can’t gel with them. Floral fragrances are something to be appreciated but, yeah, not something I would wear.

Over the course of my wearing life, I’ve worn everything from cK One and Boss in Motion, then upgraded to niche brands like Roja Dove and Byredo. So stuff across the spectrum.

IMAGE: Calvin Klein.

Are those tastes reflected in the perfumes for Aqualis?

Definitely! I must really love what I put forward. Particularly when it comes to the florals, which might not be something I wear personally. That’s the kind of thing I will give to other people to smell and to smell on them. If I love it on someone else, then I will move forward with it.

There’s nothing in my collection that I haven’t extensively tested and pondered over for an incredibly long time. It’s always very well measured and tested by the time it goes to market.

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Canvas Parfum

WORK OF ART: A shot of bergamot freshness in Aqualis Canvas Parfum leads the way to a bouquet of powdery prettiness (notes of freesia, iris, mimosa, rose), with wafts of white musk keeping it sensual and sophisticated. Created by Amandine Galliano.

How have you ensured Aqualis stands out in such a busy niche market?

There’s this super-luxury end where prices are over £400 pounds for a 50ml bottle. So I felt there was a gap for a premium product that’s not outrageously priced out of the market. The brand sits very neatly in its own little niche in the niche industry. Very few other people are doing 30% concentrations of the best quality ingredients at that price point.

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Display

Which niche brands inspire you?

I’m always looking at other brands. Thibaud Crivelli is doing a great job with Maison Crivelli. He’s got this great attention to detail from the blotters to creating a feeling around a fragrance. Which is what I try to do, as well, I just don’t have his budget [laughs].

At the high end, Henry Jacques is an incredibly company. One which I had the pleasure of working for briefly. The quality is unmatched, their own perfumers, sourcing all their own ingredients…

IMAGE: Henry Jacques.

Sergio Momo of Xerjoff works with brilliant perfumers, such beautiful design. Those three companies I look at, not to copy, but you feel inspired naturally by them.

How many people are in your company?

Me. And my girlfriend Chloe. That’s it. I manage all the production, finance, international retailers, new product development… basically, manage all the company. Chloe manages the Harrods account and the social media and communications. But we’re really punching above our weight for what we are and do.

“We’re really punching above our weight for what we are and do.” – Steyn Grobler 

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Utopia Parfum

OLFACTORY IDEAL: A rush of fresh blood orange gives way to the fruity nuances of apricot, osmanthus, pink peppercorn and rose in Aqualis Utopia Parfum. Not your average screechingly sweet fruity-floral, hallelujah. Created by Jean-Charles Mignon.

The Harrods deal is a huge coup. How did that come about?

Working with Ex Nihilo, I built up a direct relationship with them over a long time. It took three years for Harrods to accept the brand.

When you show big results over your career – for example, with Ex Nihilo and Boadicea – it gives them the confidence to launch the product. Huge investment also went into the actual presentation to them, which looked stunning.

And then there’s what you do there to grow it. It almost becomes a HR exercise. What sales staff do you employ, how do you strategise, but that’s also the fun part.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

What’s been your hardest (and most valuable) business lesson so far?

[Laughs] There’s a whole graveyard of lessons. No, the biggest thing is don’t burn bridges and work with people in the long term. As a younger guy and being South African, I might have been too stern and forward with my words and thinking, so I’ve learned to be very collaborative with people.

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Namaqualand Parfum

BIRTHDAY BLOOMS: Inspired by the semi-desert region in South Africa which explodes with blooming wild flowers in July and August, Aqualis Namaqualand Parfum is big on the florals in a rather lovely way. Jasmine sambac, tuberose and ylang-ylang are all given their place in the African sun. Created by Florian Gallo.

Talking about your South African background, your heritage is proving to be a rich source of material. Was that intentional, or did it kind of happen along the way?

Each of them means something to me. Namaqualand blooms round about the time of my birthday. Kalahari is where my mum is from. Brenton is where my parents live now. Kruger [the president of the Transvaal in the 19th century] was my great, great grandfather. I didn’t set out wanting to make a South African brand, but these are such inspiring places.

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Kruger Parfum

GOLD STANDARD: A double dose of the queen of florals in the form of rose oil and rose absolute (both from Turkey) is complemented by the soft leathery tones of saffron and papyrus in Aqualis Kruger Parfum. Cosy and chic. Created by Jean-Charles Mignon.

How do you brief your perfumers?

It’s quite different every time, but there are certain things that are consistent throughout my briefs: the highest concentration, no budgetary constraints on raw materials, which the perfumers love. It’s also important for them to have artistic freedom.

The briefs include what kind of person I envisage wearing it and what’s on the market already. They can’t be copies. I have this library [of references] in my head. You need a lot of knowledge about what’s going on in the industry.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

You mentioned Egoli when you were here in February. Tell us about that.

Egoli [the Zulu word for Johannesburg] is the place of gold and oud is liquid gold. I really wanted to use the notion of Johannesburg as a city built entirely on gold and now it’s a huge metropolis with Pretoria around it. And of course, I grew up around there.

It’s a unique take on oud in a parfum concentration, created by Chris Maurice who also did a lot of the Xerjoff fragrances. Unlike a lot of the big perfume conglomerates, he has a regular supply of the best oud in Laos.

Steyn Grober - Aqualis Egoli Parfum

IMAGE: Aqualis.

“I’m a bit of a purist in that way and wanted real oud, not accords or synthetic oud, to be used.” – Steyn Grobler

I’m a bit of a purist in that way and wanted real oud, not accords or synthetic oud, to be used. It’s stunning, with acidity, soft freshness from the bergamot note and this animalic musk-civet note.

REAL DEAL: Chris Maurice collaborated with Steyn Grobler to create Aqualis Egoli Parfum.

A brand is always a work in progress. What do you want to improve on Aqualis?

I started off with 50ml bottles, the concept that the strongest poisons come in the tiniest bottles, but there’s huge demand for 100ml bottles, so I’m working with an award-winning architect to create a shape for the 100ml. It will be sculptural.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

Now that I’m scaling the brand, we’re also working hard to come to solutions that are sustainable and luxurious and exclusive at the same time. For instance, the silk and foam inside the box are not sustainable and we can’t pump stuff out that gets thrown away.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

A lot of brands go through this journey. You look at Byredo and Roja Parfums, which have changed so much over the years, and you have this confidence, it’s fine to change it.

Running a perfume business takes a lot of cash. If I can ask the rude question, how have you done it?

Begged, borrowed and stolen [laughs]. I funded everything myself is the simple answer. I’ve been in high positions in companies. A lot of friends bought a house and I invested in a company. I love high risk [laughs again]. But then the company has grown organically in terms of its cash-flow, so whatever we’ve done, we’re not struggling to shift stock.

“Wherever there’s something that’s going to cost me a lot of money, I’ve ending up doing it myself.” – Steyn Grobler

Wherever there’s something that’s going to cost me a lot of money, I’ve ending up doing it myself. That’s also very much the South African way.

Aqualis fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

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Best Le Labo Fragrances: 17 Top Releases From The Niche Standard-Setter

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Lys 41 EDP

If there’s a brand that’s synonymous with the rise and rise of niche fragrances, it’s Le Labo. So a best Le Labo fragrances post is a no-brainer. Founded by Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi in 2006, the NYC-based company rode the crest of the niche wave in the noughties with its mix of French tradition and New York attitude.

Best Le Labo Fragrances

FRAGRANCE LAB FOUNDERS: Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi. IMAGE: Le Labo.

What seems standard now – idiosyncratic scents, apothecary packaging, naming convention for fragrances (the main scent note + the composition’s number of ingredients) – was positively innovative and daring at the time.

From its origins at 233 Elizabeth Street, Nolita, NYC, and acquisition by the Estée Lauder Companies in 2014 to recent releases, Le Labo has managed to maintain its credibility and quality in an increasingly over-crowded market.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Trio

Many of the house’s launch releases feature in this best Le Labo fragrances round-up, but there are also several other standouts worthy of your attention.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Oud 27 EDP

LE LABO BERGAMOTE 22 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Want one of the best bergamot fragrances on the market? This 2006 release is yours for the taking.

The opening displays the complex characteristics of the citrus note to great effect: tart, spicy and aromatic. There’s more citrus support from notes of bitter grapefruit and green petitgrain. What could be an overwhelmingly sharp concoction is balanced with the subtle floral sweetness of orange blossom, white musk and an amber accord. A large dose of vetiver in the drydown maintains the original freshness with its clean woodiness.

Yes, it’s pricey for a citrus-centric scent, but rest assured, you’re getting top quality as part of the deal.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Bergamote 22 EDP

LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

Le Labo established its reputation soon after its launch in 2006 with fragrances that included Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Patchouli 24 and Iris 39.

Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the almost-too-popular-for-its-own-good Santal 33), Iris 39 brings a different take on one of my favourite florals.

It opens with the brief sunny spiciness of lime, ginger and cardamom. Iris is often cool and aloof, but Voelkl surrounds it with yet more warmth of the ylang-ylang kind. There’s powder aplenty with violet in support. The drydown is big on the earthy patchouli and musky, animalic vibe (the synthetic civetone is particularly appealing here).

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Iris 39 EDP

LE LABO JASMIN 17 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)

Billed as the company’s modern interpretation of floral fragrances, I wear this 2006 release whenever I want to be reminded of spring and summer. It never fails to do the trick.

Bitter orange (also known as bigarade) is the first to make an impact with its sharp citric freshness. The headline act is everything I want the white floral to be: intense, honeyed with just the right amount of sweetness, fruity and sunny. It’s enhanced and balanced by notes of orange blossom and neroli.

The drydown is on the creamy side, thanks to notes of vanilla and sandalwood, with musk concluding the sensual package.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Jasmin 17 EDP

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

This 2006 release is all the proof you need fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.

Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk derived from the seeds of a tropical plant. It’s undoubtedly the star of this creation, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.

It’s a soft rendition of the fruity musk theme and strikes a deft balance between slightly sweet and sour.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Ambrette 9 EDP

LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)

Released in 2006 as part of the brand’s launch collection, this EDP is a curious beast. Labdanum (also known as cistus labdanum and rock rose) is a sticky resinous substance obtained from the leaves and stems of the plant. It gives amber fragrances depth and potency.

In the masterful hands of legendary perfumer Maurice Roucel (creator of classics such as Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP and Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur EDP), it starts out in musky animalic-leather style, with assistance from notes of civet and castoreum (don’t worry, no animals were harmed here, these are synthetic versions).

It softens as it progresses towards an almost baby powder feel sweetened with vanilla and tonka bean (I wish all babies smelled this good). The powderiness keeps on coming with warm musk in the drydown.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP

LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Le Labo Neroli 36 was one of the launch fragrances from the NYC-based niche brand, but doesn’t get as much attention as, say, Santal 33 or Bergamote 22. Which is a pity, because this 2006 release is enchanting stuff from the first spray.

The title note brings on the sun with its honey-ish qualities. It’s amplified by notes of mandarin orange with a slight aldehydic vibe. The floral mood continues with notes of jasmine and rose, fresh and gently sweet.

Musk and vanilla mingle in the warm drydown of this thoroughly cheerful composition.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Neroli 36 EDP

LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP (ANNICK MÉNARDO)

Is this 2006 release from the brand’s launch collection a leather or a patchouli scent? The company’s website even states “patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula.”

There’s certainly no missing the mega dose of birch in it. The oil from the bark of this hardwood tree (birch tar oil) is renowned for its smoky leather properties and it gives this EDP an almost burnt quality. A hint of warm and spicy vanilla softens the harsh edges. Yeah, but what about the patchouli? It pops up when you least expect it, earthy and medicinal, and then disappears.

Intriguing, challenging stuff…

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Patchouli 24 EDP

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex scent, the house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.

This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.

It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded with a standout EDP.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Rose 31 EDP

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Long before it was trendy to highlight individual ingredients, Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name Le Labo 46 comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it.

There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with cloves and pepper at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special (the Haitian variety is used) is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra oomph by the olibanum note.

Deep, dark, delicious… But not for everyone.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Vetiver 46 EDP

LE LABO OUD 27 EDP (VINCENT SCHALLER)

Some people think this 2009 release is too animalic. I think it does a fine job of displaying the precious ingredient at its mysterious and musky best.

Rich and resinous oud beckons from the first spray. Its spiciness is accentuated by notes of black pepper, saffron and patchouli. There’s also some seductive smokiness at work in this EDP, courtesy of notes of incense and guaiac wood. Atlas cedar rounds it off with a touch of sweetness and a whole lot of warmth.

The result: an intense olfactory experience that mostly avoids the Western dilution common to many oud fragrances.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Oud 27 EDP

LE LABO ANOTHER 13 EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

You know you’re trendy when you’re commissioned by the editor-in-chief of the highly regarded fashion and culture AnOther Magazine to create an exclusive scent for them.

Synthetics are amped to the max in this 2010 release, which is actually a very good thing. The soft woodiness of ISO E Super and muskiness of ambroxan are clearly evident, while the fruitiness of pear and jasmine are also present in the mix. The naturally derived musk ambrette seed absolute adds a silky dimension.

Not just another fragrance, for sure.

Le Labo Another 13 EDP

IMAGE: Le Labo.

LE LABO SANTAL 33 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

One of the most prominent niche fragrances of the last decade, this 2011 release is still fantastic stuff. Don’t let the “it’s too popular” naysayers tell you otherwise.

Inspired by the iconic Marlboro ads with their free ’n wild west imagery, it presents the ruggedness of Australian sandalwood bolstered by an accord of lived-in leather, smoky papyrus, resinous cedar and spicy cardamom. A liberal dose of Ambrox gives it musky voomah. Notes of iris and violet soften the edges with their sensual floral powderiness.

This decade-defining creation stands out for all the right reasons. I salute the perfumer behind it, Frank Voelkl.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Santal 33 EDP

LE LABO LYS 41 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Big doesn’t necessarily mean better, but in the case of this 2013 release it’s big and beautiful.

Three white florals are presented in all their formidable glory. While tuberose is the most prominent, lily and jasmine also get their chance to contribute to the sunny freshness. Although not officially listed, I reckon there’s also some tiare flower, with its fruity and indolic attributes, in the mix. Madagascan vanilla gives the bouquet chic creaminess, with musk and woody notes prolonging the olfactory sensuality in the drydown.

It’s truly powerful stuff, so probably not the best option for the faint-hearted. Anyone else will lap it up with vigour.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Lys 41 EDP

LE LABO THÉ NOIR 29 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

This 2015 release is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.

It announces itself in distinctive fashion with a trio of rich notes: fig, bergamot and bay leaf. The effect is immediately intense and compelling. It gets even darker when the earthy vetiver and tobacco-ish black tea leaves come into play.

The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo The Noir 29 EDP

LE LABO YLANG 49 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

Any doubts that the acquisition of Le Labo by the Estée Lauder Companies in 2014 would dilute the quality and creativity of the brand were put to rest when Le Labo Ylang 49 was launched in 2015. Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the ever-popular Santal 33), it’s a luscious, dense and take-no-prisoners composition.

In the opening, ylang-ylang and Tahitian gardenia bring on the floral richness in no uncertain terms. It’s sweet and wonderfully intoxicating. Please don’t stop. And it doesn’t, thanks to the next stage of the scent’s evolution, featuring dark and earthy notes of patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.

After all that intensity, sandalwood and benzoin leave a warm and creamy smoothness.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Ylang 49 EDP

LE LABO BAIE 19 EDP

This 2019 release sees Le Labo in conceptual mode. It’s all about the petrichor effect. According to the BBC, two Australian researchers came up with the name in the 1960s to describe the phenomenon of the warm, earthy smell we experience when rain hits dry ground. Baie 19 isn’t the first fragrance to capture this sensation but is one of the most convincing.

There’s freshness aplenty from an airy ozonic accord, with aromatic support from juniper berries and greenery in the background. An overdose of patchouli provides the earthy aspect and is accentuated by musk and Ambroxan.

Intriguing yet very wearable stuff.

Best Le Labo Fragrances - Le Labo Baie 19 EDP

LE LABO THÉ MATCHA 26 EDP

Le Labo Thé 29 is undoubtedly one of my favourite tea fragrances for its bold distinctiveness. I reach for Thé Matcha, a 2021 release, when I want something more reserved and tranquil.

Although subtle, the matcha tea accord has the green-ish, seaweed qualities I love about the Japanese beverage. It’s given character and contrasts with the sweet floralcy of fig and tart citrus of bitter orange notes.

The drydown is soft and woody, with notes of vetiver and cedar wrapping up the private olfactory experience with delicacy.

Le Labo The Matcha 26 EDP

All these best Le Labo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. Do you have any best Le Labo fragrances?

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Quentin Bisch Parfums de Marly Delina Interview: “I Don’t Create Perfumes Thinking Of Success”

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

The last time I interviewed Quentin Bisch, in 2018, the Paris-based perfumer was already making an impression with his creations for brands such as Chloé, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Etat Libre d’Orange, Mugler, Ex Nihilo and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Four years later, the Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate has become highly sought after, so much so that this follow-up interview almost didn’t materialise due to his non-stop schedule.

IMAGE: Chloé.

Quentin Bisch made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with Reminiscence Essence EDP. Most recently, he has produced fan favourites Hibiscus Mahajád (2021) and Patchouli Magnetik (2022) for French niche brand Maison Crivelli.

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

His creations for the Parfums de Marly Delina Range – Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif EDP (2018) and Parfums de Marly Delina La Rosée EDP (2021) – are particularly popular.

When we got the opportunity to catch up over a half-hour phone call, we chat about the pressures of being in demand, the Parfums de Marly Delina line and the trickiness of working with roses. We also go into existential territory, which just adds to my admiration of his authenticity and sensitivity.

You are very in demand and are increasingly referred to as a “star perfumer”. How do you cope with the pressure and expectation?

Please don’t [sighs]. When I hear those kinds of things, I’m honoured and touched.

At the same time, it’s just not talking to me. Maybe because I’m strict with myself so I’m always seeking, doing research, looking at my next goals to achieve. So when I hear those compliments, it’s like people are nice, but that’s it.

“With the pressure, it’s only my pressure, which is quite huge. It’s sufficient and quite enough.”

With the pressure, it’s only my pressure, which is quite huge. It’s sufficient and quite enough [laughs].

I get the impression you’re a perfectionist.

Yes, maybe too much. But my self-engine that pushes me all the time is good like that too. Sometimes it’s a bit tricky. I can get into things in an obsessional way. It tends to take a lot in my life.

I still see myself as someone looking for something I haven’t accomplished yet. I feel young and new and having done nothing yet. There’s a huge gap between sometimes what I hear and what I feel in my head.

Apparently, you used to struggle with chemistry, an integral part of perfumery. How’s that part of the equation going now?

No. No [emphatic]. I have understood with experience you don’t need chemistry at all, in fine fragrances especially. Maybe if you’re working with household detergents and so forth, you do, but that’s not my domain.

You don’t need to foresee the chemical reactions in fine fragrances. You just need to perfume alcohol, which has no smell. I’m more of a chef mixing ingredients than a chemist.

IMAGE: Marc-Antoine Barrois.

You make it sound too easy, Quentin…

You’re right. Anybody can create, with a little training, something that smells good. There are some tricks. If you take vanilla, patchouli and labdanum, it smells amber, which is a beautiful accord. You can learn that trick.

To create beautiful perfumes that are modern, different and expansive is complicated because then you must adapt the art of mixing to the art of feeling what will be good, trendy and suits the brand. That is difficult.

Which would come from experience and intuition…

True. Intuition and lots of work. You need to try and try and fail and fail again to discover something nice and interesting. You need to be very patient. If you’re looking for something that’s rewarding quickly, perfumery is not for you.

“If you’re looking for something that’s rewarding quickly, perfumery is not for you.”

Let’s discuss the hugely successful Parfums de Marly Delina range. How much freedom were you given to create these fragrances?

Quite free, I must say. We presented to Julien [Sprecher], the olfactive director of the brand. At first, he didn’t like the note, but we insisted and he reconsidered. He asked me to do one single modification and that’s it.

Delina is powerful stuff. Was that part of the brief?

It’s very important to have that aspect in the whole package. It needed to be powerful and fluid – the way it’s distributed in the air – and transparent at the same time.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

How did you ensure Delina Exclusif is different from the original while keeping certain elements?

Exactly. It needed to be a continuation of the first one, like season two. If Delina was roses blooming in the garden at noon, full sun, a beautiful day, then Exclusif would be the same thing, but by night. It’s the same idea but with a different atmosphere.

I see you used Evernyl in the creation of Delina Exclusif. Did you prefer to use this synthetic moss rather than real oak moss?

When a perfumer uses a material, it’s not a basic choice between a natural and synthetic. I used Evernyl for a certain reason. It’s a different material. It’s like if you asked why I used hedione or benzyl acetate in place of jasmine. They’re three completely different materials.

“Creating a perfume is not a battle of choosing between natural and synthetic, good and bad. They’re a range of different ingredients.”

Creating a perfume is not a battle of choosing between natural and synthetic, good and bad. They’re a range of different ingredients.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

For example, using a high amount of rose essence oil sometimes is not good. It stinks because it’s too dark, too spicy. It’s a cocktail of molecules when you use the natural. The synthetic allows you to use just one part of the rose, so then you can create your own rose.

I’m enjoying the relative softness of La Rosée with its aquatic vibe. What was the idea there?

I thought it could be the prequel. The same rose, but in the morning and not fully bloomed at that moment. There’s a dewy, wet atmosphere. It’s transparent but still powerful.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

Are you surprised by the success of the range?

Yes! And everywhere! In Brazil, the Middle East, America, Russia, France. It’s crazy. That’s very interesting.

You never know if something is going to be a success. I don’t create perfumes thinking of that. Sometimes a beautiful fragrance can be launched at the wrong time and it misses the audience.

Parfums de Marly Delina - Quentin Bisch

All these Delina fragrances feature Turkish rose. Is this an easy ingredient to work with for you?

No, not at all. It’s beautiful but very powerful and can be a bit tricky. If you overdose it, it’s not modern.

For Parfums de Marly, it needed to be the legacy of this olfactory fantasy, tradition and modernity.

It’s really a duet of this rose, from Turkey and which is natural, and Petalia. This captive molecule from Givaudan [the company he works for] is a key ingredient of the modern rosiness of Delina. It keeps the litchi, fresh rose facet from top to bottom.

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Do you have a favourite ingredient to work with?

It changes all the time, like one’s mood. It depends on what you want to do. At the moment, it’s vanilla, because I’m working on something with it.

You know for Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle EDP, it started with le grand cru vanille, a delicious French cake with vanilla in all its states – powdery, dark, leathery. It was very interesting, the first time I was really trying to create an accord around vanilla and all its facets. From that day, I’m a vanilla-lover.

IMAGE: Jean Paul Gaultier.

Are you working on the next addition to the Delina range already? I know these things are confidential…

[Pause] Not for Delina. I can tell you I’m working on something else for Parfums de Marly.

If I read correctly, you turn 40 next year.

I turned 39 one week ago.

Hope it was a good celebration. Does it mean anything to you, as you approach that landmark year? Is this a time of reflection for you?

Definitely, but I’m always in that kind of state [laughs]. I’m always thinking about where I am, what I do, and asking myself: Are you doing the right thing? Are you doing it properly? And if not, change it.

IMAGE: Essential Parfums.

It’s tiring but also good because you’re sure you’re at the right place at the right moment and you’re not lying to yourself and others. I hate, hate not being honest with myself and others.

I can relate. It can keep you up at night, all those questions, especially when there are no answers.

Yes, yes. You can question something without having the answers. And then it follows you in your everyday life and sometimes, suddenly, you will have that revelation: now, I know this is for me, this is not for me anymore. We evolve all the time and I definitely have the feeling I’m not the same as before.

The Parfums de Marly Delina range is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

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Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP Review: Waves Of Freshness

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

For such a best-seller, it’s taken a long time for Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP to be released. The original EDT was launched in 1996 and, like it or not, came to epitomise the decade’s trend for aquatic fragrances.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT

Along the way, it generated a succession of flankers, including Acqua di Giò Essenza EDP (2012), Acqua di Giò Profumo EDP (2015), Acqua di Giò Absolu EDP (2018), Acqua di Giò Profondo EDP (2020) and Acqua di Giò Profondo Lights EDP (2021). All variations on the sophisticated sun-and-sea theme.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

Acqua di Giò EDP was released in 2022 and with the popularity of the franchise and a mega marketing budget to match, I tell you all you need to know about this latest addition.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

Interesting to note that while the Italian luxury brand released relatively few flankers in the fragrance’s earlier life cycle, it seems to have increased the frequency in recent years to maximise its profitability.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

The new release is also very much in line with the company’s eco credentials. All sizes of Acqua di Giò EDP (40ml, 75ml, 125ml) can be unscrewed and refilled at home with the 150ml refill bottle sold separately. The wood cap means less use of plastic.

Various reforestation and conservation projects in Brazil, Madagascar, Peru and Zimbabwe contribute to the company’s carbon neutrality target by 2025.

PERFUMER

Where does one start with Alberto Morillas, creator of all the fragrances in the Acqua di Giò range?

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

Alberto Morillas is the master perfumer behind all the versions of Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò. Image: Mizensir.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics with his finely tuned instinct for commercial success and knowledge of natural and synthetic ingredients.

There’s a good chance you’ve worn one of his many creations in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for Firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

If you want to know why Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT (1995), Givenchy PI EDT (1998), Carolina Herrera 212 Men EDT (1999), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Bvlgari Man EDT (2010), Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue EDT (2016), Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017), Gucci Bloom EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

GOLDEN TOUCH: Bvlgari Rose Goldea Blossom Delight EDP is one of the many creations of Alberto Morillas.

There’s a good reason why uber-vlogger Jeremy Fragrance worked with him to create his own range, Fragrance.One.

The Spaniard was awarded the Prix François Coty in 2003 and The Fragrance Foundation (USA) Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013, and launched his own perfume brand Mizensir in 2015.

Image: Mizensir.

SO WHAT DOES GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIÒ EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening brings on a wave of Mediterranean citric freshness, thanks to Calabrian green mandarin*. It’s slightly sharp with a tinge of sunny floralcy.

There’s no missing the marine accord after that. It’s been amplified with Yodanol, a Firmenich captive molecule that enhances freshness with a velvety floral-green aspect. This should please those who found the original’s freshness faded too quickly.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

Provencal clary sage heart* gives the scent aromatic muskiness (the herb is a good substitute for ambergris, as the real stuff from the sperm whale costs a fortune and is rarely used nowadays), with floral assistance from notes of lavandin and geranium bourbon heart from Madagascar*.

The drydown is in typically masculine woody territory via a combo of patchouli from Guatemala*, Atlas cedarwood essence and vetiver from Haiti*.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP

With its long-lasting freshness, Acqua di Giò EDP is certainly stronger and more focused than the original EDT. It’s easier to detect the listed notes in it. While still elegant and timeless, perhaps it has lost some of the complexity and soft appeal of the original in the process. There’s no doubt, it’s going to sell very well. Here’s hoping the brand doesn’t flanker the life out of this classic in the coming years.

*These ingredients have been sustainably sourced, according to the brand.

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Initio Oud For Greatness EDP Review

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP

Initio was doing quite nicely, thank you, with releases such as Absolute Aphrodisiac (2015), Side Effect (2016) and Psychedelic Love (2017). And then in 2018 – boom! – the French brand launched Initio Oud for Greatness EDP.

I’m not exaggerating when I say this EDP has become hugely popular, joining the ranks of Creed Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 and Parfums de Marly Herod as exemplars of niche excellence to its many fans. I’m told that niche retailer Skins Cosmetics can’t keep up with the demand for it.

At the same time, this law of perfumery – What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down (that is, the more successful a fragrance becomes, the more it’s trashed online) – came into effect.

So I’m cutting through the OTT hype and nasty negativity to bring you the Fragroom review of Initio Oud for Greatness.

PERFUMER

Despite repeated attempts to get this info from the brand and online research, nada. I expect niche companies to be more transparent with this stuff, but moving on…

SO WHAT DOES INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS SMELL LIKE?

This release from the brand’s Black Gold Project Collection gets going in bold style with a big dose of saffron. Its leathery qualities are supported by the clean aromatics of lavender and earthiness of nutmeg. The effect is fresh ’n spicy, with an emphasis on the latter.

 

It doesn’t take long for the oud to come through. Any oud fragrance, especially a relatively pricey niche one, inevitably leads to the question: but is it real oud? The brand claims to use both natural oud wood and agar wood oil in this composition.

Depending on a number of factors (for example, the quality, where it’s from, how it’s treated, what it’s combined with), the precious ingredient can range from the overpoweringly skanky and barnyard (not for beginners) to the smoother and more refined, à la Initio Oud for Greatness.

“It’s rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation.”

Even though it’s not as “brutal” as the brand claims it to be, it’s still rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation which lasts through to the drydown.

Patchouli and musk feature here, albeit in minor assistant roles to accentuate the overall deep mood. It’s unusual for an Initio fragrance to not be musk heavy, but nothing wrong with a change in tone.

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP

It’s easy to understand why Initio Oud for Happiness is so popular. Yes, it’s not particularly complex but it’s beautifully blended in a friendly Western style. Oh, and did I mention its impressive sillage and longevity? Definitely a big part of its appeal.

Anyone looking for a potent but accessible, statement-making oud will find their joy in this release.

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Kajal Lamar EDP Review: Window On A World Of Colour

Kajal Lamar EDP

You can’t always judge a fragrance’s popularity and quality from Instagram. But in the case of Kajal Lamar EDP,  you certainly can. This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.

Kajal Lamar EDP

In the two years since its launch, this addition to the company’s Classic Collection has developed a devoted following. I take a closer look at this cult favourite and what makes it such a worthwhile purchase.

ABOUT THE PERFUMER

Mark Buxton is one of the most creative contemporary perfumers. The British perfumer made his debut in 1979 with Alain Delon Pour Homme EDT.

Kajal Lamar EDP

IMAGE: Mark Buxton Perfumes.

He created several classics for Comme des Garçons, including the Japanese brand’s fantastic eponymous debut (1994), Comme des Garçons 2 EDP (1999) and Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT (2004).

IMAGE: Comme des Garçons.

While best known for his work for niche houses (House of Sillage, Le Labo, Linari, Parfums d’Elmar, Folie à Plusieurs, among others), he’s also given his bold touch to designer scents such as Chopard Mira-Bai EDT (1998), Cartier Pasha de Cartier Fraîcheur Menthe EDT (1999), Versace V/S Homme EDT (2000), Paco Rabanne Black XS for Her EDT (2007), Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Light EDT (2008) and Van Cleef & Arpels Cologne Noire EDP (2009).

He launched his own eponymous perfume company in 2008.

SO WHAT DOES KAJAL LAMAR EDP SMELL LIKE?

It makes a statement from the get-go. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.

The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.

Kajal Lamar EDP

The enchantment continues through to the drydown with a good dose of the synthetic Ambroxan taking the lead with its smooth muskiness. The moss note is also worth mentioning, as it brings a hint of bitter earthiness to what is otherwise an uncompromisingly sweet composition.

“While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying.”

While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.

Anyone looking for a standout fruity fragrance will appreciate this beauty. Even those with an aversion to overly sweet scents could find themselves succumbing to the charms of Kajal Lamar EDP.

It’s ideal for special occasions or when you want to feel special. Mostly, though, wear it when you want a window on a world of colour.

Oh, must mention that Kajal has some of the most striking bottles on the market (the ornate octagram tops have become synonymous with it).

Kajal Lamar EDP

Lamar reflects its light inspiration through the gold hues of the beautifully designed bottle. I wouldn’t blame you for wanting to display this one prominently among your collection.

Kajal Lamar is available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

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MAURICE ROUCEL INTERVIEW: “I’M ALWAYS IN CONTROL OF MY FORMULAS, TRYING TO PLEASE MY CLIENT – AND MYSELF”

Maurice Roucel Interview

IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

Maurice Roucel called me last week. Shameless name-dropping aside, I’ve always wanted to say that. After all, how often does a living legend respond to a flurry of emails with a phone-call to set up a time for an interview a week later. I gush about this Maurice Roucel interview because, in his nearly five decades-long career, he’s the man behind fragrances such as:

  • Rochas Tocade EDT (1994)
  • Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist EDP (1994)
  • Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP (1995)
  • Lalique Pour Homme EDP (1997)
  • Gucci Envy EDT (1997)
  • Rochas Man EDT (1999)
  • Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur EDP (2000)
  • Bond No 9 New Haarlem EDP (2003)
  • Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP (2003)
  • Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious EDP (2004)
  • Lolita Lempicka L de Lolita Lempicka EDP (2006)
  • Guerlain Insolence EDT (2006)
  • Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP (2006)
  • Nautica Voyage EDT (2006)
  • Amouage Reflection Woman EDP (2007)
  • Lancôme Hypnôse Homme EDT (2007)
  • Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras EDP (2008)

Maurice Roucel Interview - Rochas Man EDT

More recently, he has given niche brands such as Atkinsons, Cochine, Maison Rebatchi and Shalini his distinctive Gallic flair.

Maurice Roucel didn’t go the traditional route of perfume school. Starting at Chanel in 1973, where he worked with Henri Robert (creator of No 19 and Cristalle, pictured below), he taught himself the fundamentals of the profession. No doubt, his background as a chromatography chemist, with its techniques of separating a mixture into its individual components, gave him a technical edge.

IMAGE: Chanel.

His earliest fragrances included Henry M. Betrix Country EDT (1979) and Krizia K de Krizia (1981). In 1996, he joined the German fragrance and flavour company Symrise, which recognised him as a master perfumer – a rare accolade in the industry. Other achievements include the Prix François Coty (2002) and the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012).

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

When we get to chat properly, the Normandy-born, Paris-based perfumer is humorous, insightful and forthright. I try to find out what project he’s currently working on – rightly so, he insists it’s confidential. Instead, we talk about a wide range of subjects, including synthetics, ambers, keeping clients happy and approaching his latest career milestone.

Hope you enjoy reading this Maurice Roucel interview as much I did speaking with him.

Maurice Roucel Interview

IMAGE: Symrise.

You’re self-taught. How many years did it take before you knew the essentials?

[Laughs] I’m still learning. You always do in this business.

Musk seems to be one of your favourites. Why does it appeal so much to you?

Ah yes, I like musk, but I like to work with a lot of things. I don’t have a particular favourite.

“I like musk, but I like to work with a lot of things. I don’t have a particular favourite.”

While I must work to the ideas of client briefs, which are quite specific, personally I do enjoy something with the structure of musk, vanille [vanilla], ambery, sweet but not too sweet, comfortable. A little bit of the style, I would like to say, of Guerlain, Guerlinade [the house’s signature accord originally created by Aimé Guerlain in the late 19th century].

Maurice Roucel Interview - Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur EDP

You mentioned amber. There’s a lot of confusion about it…

At the beginning, ambergris came from the sperm whale. Nowadays, it’s frankly impossible. With animalics increasingly forbidden, you have synthetics or bases – perhaps you’ve heard of Ambre 93 from de Laire, for example.

You have sweet amber and dry amber. The product Ambroxan is dry ambery. When you are looking at the perfumery of Guerlain, the famous Guerlinade, it could be seen as ambery, but nothing to do with the original amber [laughs].

Ambre 83 from de Laire tries to add something comfortable, reassuring, feminine, enveloping, that kind of stuff.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP

Perfumery relies on a mix of naturals and synthetics…

DKNY Be Delicious is totally synthetic.

And it’s great…

Yeah, it’s great, but it’s a question of the art of the perfumer to make something smell good.

How do you deal with the idea that “natural is best”?

It’s not the case. If you want to give the DNA of your perfume strong character, you need to use synthetics.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP

PERSONAL PERFUME: In this Maurice Roucel interview, the perfumer reveals that Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache was initially created for himself. IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

You’ve created more than 150 perfumes in your career. Have you ever struggled with self-doubt or to come up with ideas or inspiration?

Maybe, I don’t know, I never count them.

Sometimes it’s difficult to find the right idea, for sure. But when you have it and it’s pleasing the client, we can work it for creating properly. Sometimes you can create something in one afternoon, as they say, sometimes it can take five to six years.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Nautica Voyage EDT

IMAGE: Nautica.

Hermès 24 Faubourg is one of my favourite creations of yours. It’s such a beautiful classic…

You know, originally I was not a fan of orange flower absolute, not my cup of tea. I was thinking at that time, the brief from Hermès was to create something around the Mediterranean, the sea, the sun. For me, Mediterranean countries mean orange flower, so that’s why I chose to work with it.

“It took four to five years to create the perfume. The people from Hermès are quite picky.”

And it took four to five years to create the perfume. The people from Hermès are quite picky. They are very demanding [chuckles]. When you have the scarves, the leather, everything is absolutely gorgeous, focused and very high quality.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP

Let’s talk about one of your more recent creations, Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP [2019] which, coincidentally, I’ve just received from the company. Love its soft powderiness…

Originally, it was a perfume I created for myself. These ideas can then be proposed to a client and if they like it, they can then take it [laughs].

Maurice Roucel Interview - Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP

PERSONAL PERFUME: In this Maurice Roucel interview, he reveals he initially created Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache for himself. IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

Do you have lots of these ideas waiting to be realised?

For example, you know, when I was, not so far from you really [I’m in Johannesburg, South Africa], in Réunion Island, I never smelled anything so beautiful in my life as the tiaré. So I was inspired and that became L’Instant de Guerlain.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP

IMAGE: Guerlain.

Is that how you find inspiration often? By travelling?

Inspiration can come from everywhere. Like with DKNY Be Delicious, I thought why not an apple, but an apple in my style. I like to add something different.

Are there certain compromises you’re not willing to make when working with a client?

Pleasing the client, that’s okay. But I’m always in control of my formulas, trying to please my client – and myself.

Going back to fruity fragrances, I discovered one of your less well-known creations from 2008, Adidas Natural Vitality EDT, on Fragrantica.

Which one? Is it me? Sorry, I don’t remember all my perfumes.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Adidas Natural Vitality EDT

You’re heading for 50 years in the industry in 2023. What’s been the biggest change in that time?

Yes, it’s a long life, a big part of my life.

When I started there were 20 to 30 maximum new perfumes on the market every year. Nowadays it’s 3 000 [laughs]. Everybody wants to launch a perfume.

To have a success, you need to move to the big trend. When Mugler Angel was launched [in 1992] it was not appreciated at all for its innovation. Three years later, a lot of people were making the sister, the nephew, the mother, the grandmother of Angel.

“A lot of perfumes don’t have strong inspiration. They do not stay in the memory as they have nothing specific.”

Meaning that a lot of perfumes don’t have strong inspiration. Investment in them is not in their quality but more the communication and publicity and so on.

You have a lot of perfumes on the market for one year, two years maximum. They do not stay in the memory as they have nothing specific.

Niche has some kind of answer to the desire of the client for something peculiar.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Lalique Pour Homme EDP

IMAGE: Lalique.

What one thing would you like to see change in the industry?

A partnership with the client. And not everyone trying to win the brief. For winning you need to be commercial, which is a pity for creativity.

But when you are working with somebody like Frédéric Malle, some companies like Chanel, Guerlain, you can find people in front of you who have a sense of perfumery at the right level.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Guerlain Insolence EDP

All images for this Maurice Roucel interview my own, unless stated otherwise. 

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Best Tea Fragrances: A Cuppa Olfactory Inspiration

Best Tea Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two

Tea is not just one of my favourite beverages; it’s also one of my favourite fragrance genres. Before I take you through my best tea fragrances selection, a bit of background…

Best Tea Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden White Tea Mandarin Blossom EDT

The category is a relatively new one and originated with Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Commissioned to make the Bvlgari stores smell nice, according to Chandler Burr’s fascinating book The Perfect Scent, its unexpected success (customers were snapping it up at $350 a bottle) led to it being launched as a more commercial endeavour in 1992.

Forty years later, you’ll find numerous renditions on the best tea fragrances theme. From black and white to green and red, all offer an aromatic interpretation of the nuances of the different leaves used to produce tea.

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best tea fragrances?

BVLGARI EAU PARFUMÉE AU THÉ VERT EAU DE COLOGNE (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

The Italian luxury jewellery company made a fine debut, in 1992, with Eau Parfumée (now known as Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert), a celebration of Japanese green tea.

It starts out with the fresh citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and mandarin orange. They mingle with the spices and herbs of cardamom, nutmeg and clary sage to help create a green tea accord that’s aromatic and uplifting. Hints of florals – jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, Bulgarian rose – add to the refreshing vibe.

This is a softie, so “beast moders”, please move on. Anyone else will appreciate the artistry of this trend-setter that paved the way for other scents such as Elizabeth Arden Green Tea and Kilian Bamboo Harmony.

Also look out for the brand’s other takes on the tea theme: Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc (white Himalayan tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu (oolong tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir (black tea) and Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge (rooibos).

Best Tea Fragrances - Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert EDC

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

CREED SILVER MOUNTAIN WATER EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Creed Aventus EDP may get all the hype, but this 1995 release from the Paris-based niche brand gets my vote for its versatility. Inspired by perfumer Olivier Creed’s love for skiing in the Swiss Alps, it’s quality stuff with a hefty price tag. Inspiration often doesn’t translate into reality, but this fragrance captures it so well, from the bottle to the juice.

The opening is fresh, thanks to citrus notes of bergamot, neroli and mandarin. Things really get interesting when the heart notes of green tea and blackcurrant add a green element to the fresh effect. The drydown is all sandalwood and musk.

A crisp, clean and chic affair.

IMAGE: Creed.

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA EDT (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea celebrated its 23rd birthday last year. It’s easy to understand why this 1999 creation is still in production.

The opening is all zingy freshness, with citrus notes of lemon, orange zest and bergamot in perfect play. The freshness continues through to the heart of green tea and mint. Notes of jasmine and fennel bring light floral and spiciness to this EDT, which settles on a musky base.

It’s such an uplifting scent. And the great price just adds to the cheap thrills factor.

The brand regularly releases variations on the Green Tea theme – fig, mimosa and sakura blossom have been some of my favourites so far.

Best Tea Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this release from the pioneering French niche brand enough. Twenty-two years after its release, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Tea Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

WARMTH: L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two is one of my favourites in this best tea fragrances selection.

KILIAN BAMBOO HARMONY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

I tend to associate Kilian fragrances with hedonism, in the best sense of the word. So Kilian Bamboo Harmony is something of a surprising change in tone.

From the Paris-based niche brand’s The Fresh Collection, this 2012 release is every bit as peaceful as it sounds and lives up to its inspiration, “a sip of pure white tea in a bamboo forest”, in style.

The opening is all about citrus freshness, with bergamot and bigarade at the fore. Calice Becker infuses the composition with relaxing white tea leaves, while mimosa enhances the green mood. The moss note in the drydown maintains the tranquillity.

A great bedtime choice when you need a calming mist.

Best Tea Fragrances - Kilian Bamboo Harmony EDP

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX, CAROLINE SABAS & GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

This release from the American beauty brand was one of my best-loved fragrances from 2017.

Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening is a fresh ’n breezy blend of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) touches. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, this soft but persistent scent is a fantastic cheapie, in the style Elizabeth Arden does brilliantly.

The additions to the range – Vanilla Orchid, Wild Rose, Ginger Lily and Mandarin Blossom – also warrant your attention.

Best Tea Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

LE LABO THÉ 29 EDP* (FRANK VOELKL)

This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche house is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.

It announces itself in distinctive fashion with a trio of rich notes: fig, bergamot and bay leaf. The effect is immediately intense and compelling. It gets even darker when the earthy vetiver and tobacco-ish black tea leaves come into play.

The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!

Best Tea Fragrances - Le Labo The Noir 29 EDP

VILHELM PARFUMERIE DEAR POLLY EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Launched in 2015, Dear Polly was one of the NYC-based niche house’s debut releases and set the tone of quality for other standout releases such as Mango Skin, Basilico & Fellini and A Lilac A Day.

Candied apple meets crisp bergamot in the opening, followed by a big dose of black tea. While some might prefer their tea unsweetened and green, the sweet take on tea works rather nicely, I’m back for more.

Like any worthwhile composition, Dear Polly keeps on giving in the drydown, with oakmoss, black amber and musk creating an irresistibly cosy and sensual warmth.

Best Tea Fragrances - Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly EDP

NISHANE WŪLÓNG CHÁ EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (JORGE LEE)

Cup of tea, dear? Yes please, if it’s as good as this one. This 2015 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Miniature Art Collection is fantastically refreshing from start to finish.

It gets going with the citrus-green hues of bergamot, supported by lesser notes of delicately sweetened orange and mandarin. There’s also some aromatic lemon-y freshness courtesy of litsea cubeba, the shrub native to east Asia. The oolong tea, softly fruity and green, is enhanced by honeyed fig and clean white musk in the drydown.

For a freshie, this one lasts quite a long time, but then it’s an extrait de parfum.

Best Tea Fragrances - Nishane Wulong Cha Extrait de Parfum

BERDOUES ASSAM OF INDIA EDP (JENNIFER RILEY)

The travel-inspired Collection Grands Crus from the fourth-generation, family-owned, Grasse-based Berdoues brand must be one of the most likeable ranges around. This 2015 release epitomises that appeal.

It opens with the crisp and bright citrus hues of citron from Menton (France). The black tea note evokes the famous variety that’s indigenous to Assam (India), with its full-bodied characteristics. A note of creamy Mysore (India) sandalwood completes the cosmopolitan cuppa.

There’s nothing complicated about this composition, yet it delivers plenty of seemingly effortless elegant comfort. Who could ask for more?

Best Tea Fragrances - Berdoues Assam of India EDP

HERMÈS EAU DE CITRON NOIR EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Hermès’ first entry in this best tea fragrances round-up comes from the French luxury brand’s superb Cologne Collection.

The opening of this 2018 release is all about the sharp and invigorating citrus freshness of lemon and citron. It transitions with the appearance of an unusual accord, black lime – inspired by the Middle Eastern culinary tradition of sun-drying limes until they are dehydrated. Blended with black tea, it’s sour, smoky and musky. The smoky vibe is maintained in the drydown featuring guaiac wood.

A classic and timeless choice.

Best Tea Fragrances - Hermes Eau de Citron Noir EDC

MAISON CRIVELLI BOIS DATCHAÏ EDP* (DOROTHÉE PIOT)

I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release from the Paris-based niche brand that’s fast becoming one of my firm favourites.

The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness.

The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli, while papyrus and guaiac wood notes provide a subtle leather undertow.

Best Tea Fragrances - Maison Crivelli Bois Datchai EDP

HERMÈS L’OMBRE DES MERVEILLES EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Even when it’s a flanker, a Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And this 2020 release is a particularly good addition to the range which was originally launched in 2004 with Hermès Eau des Merveilles.

It features just three listed notes: black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and almost aniseed-y. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

Best Tea Fragrances - Hermes L'Ombre des Merveilles EDP

CONTRASTS: Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles is one of my more recent best tea fragrances.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The 2020 addition to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

Best Tea Fragrances - Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDT

*All these best tea fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.