The last time I chatted with Frank Voelkl, I instinctively knew he would enlighten me about the importance of synthetics in modern perfumery. So I turned once again to the New York-based perfumer to find out more about the intriguing (and often secretive) world of captive molecules.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
Who created the decade-defining Le Labo Santal 33 EDP (2011) and helped kick-start the Ariana Grande fragrance empire with Ari EDP (2015)? That would be the German-born perfumer. He’s also the creator of the fragrances below, among others:
+ Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
+ Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
+ Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
+ Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
+ Ermenegildo Zegna Florentine Iris EDP (2012)
+ Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
+ Gucci Bamboo EDP (2015)
+ Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
+ Glossier You EDP (2017, in collaboration with Dora Baghriche)
+ Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
+ Kilian Roses On Ice EDP (2020)
+ Boy Smells Marble Fruit Cologne de Parfum (2021, in collaboration with Hamid Kashani )
+ Aedes de Venustas 16a Orchard EDP (2021)
+ Abercrombie & Fitch Authentic Self Man EDT (2023)
+ Ellis Brooklyn Florist EDP (2023)
Before we get to the actual interview, some general background info on the workings of perfumery: The fragrance (and flavour) industry is dominated by several multinationals: Firmenich (Switzerland), Givaudan (Switzerland), International Flavors & Fragrances (America), Symrise (Germany), Takasago (Japan), Mane (France) and Robertet (France).
These corporates have a vast array of ingredients (naturals, synthetics and increasingly biotechnology) to be used by their perfumers.
IMAGE: Ariana Grande Fragrances.
What fragrances do you wear?
I like to wear different fragrances for different moments and occasions. For example, I wear Le Labo Santal 33 when I go out because it’s rich, warm, has a lot of signature and it’s my way of making a statement.
When I am on vacation, I wear Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Profumo. There is a nice balance of freshness and woody elegance, but it still feels casual.
When I travel and board a plane, I wear Hermès Terre d’Hermès as it has such a nice presence and I will smell myself more than anything or anybody else around me.
Where did perfumery start for you?
It really started for me when I was living in Paris as a teenager in the Eighties. I discovered my passion for fragrance and learned there are actually people who create them called perfumers. That sparked my desire to pursue this career.
IMAGE: Ellis Brooklyn.
When you studied at ISIPCA, were you aware of the existence of captive molecules?
I wasn’t aware of that back then, as my focus at the time centred on imprinting any molecules and natural ingredients into my olfactive memory. It was only once I entered a fragrance house (my first employer was Haarmann & Reimer) that I started understanding how powerful captive ingredients can be.
IMAGE: Hugo Boss.
What was your fine fragrance debut?
My first real debut in fine fragrance was when I succeeded in creating Tiare de Chantecaille EDP in 1997, which was right around the time when the first niche brands started emerging.
I had the opportunity to meet Sylvie de Chantecaille who was getting ready to create her brand. She was looking for an exotic floral fragrance, got hooked on tiare and the fact that I had a personal connection to this iconic flower from Tahiti (my wife is from there and I go to the island almost every year since I met her 30 years ago), we decided to work on this fragrance together around it.
IMAGE: Chantecaille.
Without going into too much technical detail, how would you define captive molecules? And what are some of the most well-known examples?
A molecule is considered captive when a fragrance house such as Firmenich discovers a new fragrance ingredient that is only made available to their own perfumer team rather than being sold to a competitive fragrance house. That means it is exclusively used in fragrances from Firmenich, created by Firmenich perfumers.
In addition, when a team of scientists discovers a new molecule, it will protect it with a patent to avoid any other company copying or manufacturing that same ingredient. So it’s a powerful concept, as captive means exclusive.
MUGUET RELEASE: The lily-of-the-valley synthetic Muguissimo. IMAGE: Firmenich.
Eventually, captives will be released, for example, when the patent has expired and so then they can be taken and recreated. We can decide as a company if we want to release some of our captives to others. Some great examples of captives that we have released in the past are [the lily-of-the-valley synthetic] Muguissimo (2022) and [the aquatic synthetic] Cascalone (2020).
AQUA INNOVATION: The synthetic Cascalone. IMAGE: Firmenich.
Are they becoming more important in the creation process?
Captive molecules, as well as captive natural ingredients, have always played an important role in my creations, especially because Firmenich has quite a few captive ingredients available to their perfumers.
They have become more important in recent years as transparency is on the rise and consumers are more interested in the content and the origin of the ingredients used in their products.
Are captive molecules synthetic or natural ingredients?
Captives can be both. They can be molecules / synthetics, or they can be natural ingredients.
Firmenich has a molecule research centre in Geneva, Switzerland, and a Naturals Centre of Excellence in Grasse, France, which both work on finding the next new captives.
IMAGE: Calvin Klein.
Are you incentivised to use Firmenich captive molecules in your creations?
Yes, and the biggest incentive is to have a fragrance creation that nobody outside of Firmenich would be able to recreate. We all know there are some market products out there inspired by previous existing creations, and so using captives allows perfumers to have unique formulas that are not easily copied.
“Using captives allows perfumers to have unique formulas that are not easily copied”
As perfumers, we naturally want to use them in our creations, as it gives us a competitive advantage and edge when we work on projects both for hedonics and for performance.
IMAGE: Ariana Grande Fragrances.
You’ve created several fragrances for Le Labo. For example: Iris 39, Santal 33, Ylang 49 and Thé Noir 29. And Ariana Grande Ari is one of your many other successes. Did you use any Firmenich captive molecules in their creation?
Sorry, I cannot really share all that information, but I can assure you that almost every single one of my creations will likely contain at least one or two captives from Firmenich in the formula.
That said, here are a few recent creations containing captives, but as they are captives I can’t name them all… Ariana Grande Mod Blush EDP (2022) contains Dreamwood. Calvin Klein Eternity for Men Parfum (2022) contains one of our most recent captives. Le Labo Thé Matcha 26 EDP (2021) contains four captives (two naturals, two synthetics).
I’m seeing the International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) captive molecule Cashmeran everywhere. Does Firmenich have an equivalent captive molecule?
Cashmeran was indeed originally a captive from IFF, but it has been available for anyone to use for quite some time since 1983. It’s certainly unique in its character and is still trending. It’s not biodegradable, though, so we may see the end of it soon.
Firmenich has its own iconic molecules, such as Muscenone Delta or Helvetolide [both synthetic musks].
ICONIC MOLECULE: The synthetic musk Helvetolide. IMAGE: Firmenich.
Could you tell me how you used a specific Firmenich captive molecule in one of your most recent creations? What did it bring to the composition?
Dreamwood is one of the latest Firmenich captive molecules stemming from our biotechnology research, a milestone in our ingredient advancements.
Natural sandalwood oil has become so rare that I got really excited to be able to use a natural sandalwood note like Dreamwood in a sustainable way. I have used it since the moment it was available to us in 2020. I love the incredible creaminess and comfort it adds to my creations. On top of that, it has benefits beyond its scent such as antimicrobial, antioxidant and soothing effects.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
Le Labo Thé Matcha 26 EDP and Santal 33 EDP are available in South Africa from Skin Cosmetics.
2017. Seems like such a long time ago now, doesn’t it? Almost a different world. In fragrance terms, I remember it well for the release of one of my favourite tea scents, Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT. I wasn’t the only one to be taken with it and the EDT turned out to be a big hit for the American beauty brand. So, of course, expectations were high when Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP was released rather quietly in 2022 (it’s only gathering momentum now).
Is it another winner? Several flankers have joined the original so I give my quick thoughts on those too.
PERFUMER
Surrounded by women who loved the classics from Lancôme, Caron and Lanvin, Mexico-born Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s childhood memories of perfumes and the many conversations they sparked eventually led him to the renowned perfumery school ISIPCA in Versailles, France.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
An internship with the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena taught him many things, which he still applies to his work today. “He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not,” says the perfumer.
“He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not”
The 1998 release Clinique Happy EDT (co-created with Jean-Claude Delville) kick-started his fine fragrance career in a major way.
Twenty-five years later, Rodrigo Flores-Roux can count all these creations, among others, as his achievements: Donna Karan Black Cashmere EDP (2002); John Varvatos EDT (2004); Britney Spears Hidden Fantasy EDP (2008); Calvin Klein cK Free For Men EDT (2009); Houbigant Fougère Royale EDT (2010 reformulation); Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture EDP (2010); Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP (2011); Arquiste Anima Dulcis EDP (2012); Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP (2014); Carolina Herrera Herrera Tuberose EDP (2015); Commodity Leather EDP (2017); Estée Lauder Paradise Moon EDP (2021); and Dolce & Gabbana The One Gold For Men EDP Intense (2021).
He’s also created several other EDTs for the Elizabeth Arden Green Tea range, including Summer (2005), Exotic (2009), Yuzu (2014) and Sakura Blossom (2021). So you could say the New York-based senior perfumer and vice-president of fragrance creation at Givaudan is well versed in the style of the brand.
SO WHAT DOES ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDP SMELL LIKE?
It starts out all fresh and light, with a combo of clary sage, a sea breeze accord (a subtle treatment, for those of who you break out into a sweat at the mere mention of anything aquatic) and Italian mandarin.
The perfumer’s skills are evident as the warmth of the white tea accord comes through (FYI: Camellia sinensis leaf extract, obtained from the leaves of tea, is featured on the ingredients list). Its milkiness is given floral touches of jasmine and rose water (the latter is now increasingly upcycled as an ingredient). The tea effect is enhanced by the herbaceousness of maté absolute. This note can be bitter; here it balances the delicate sweetness. There’s lots of musk (that would be the “trio of tranquillity musks” listed in the official notes) and a hint of vanilla-ish tonka bean in the drydown.
Now’s a good time to mention that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP utilises Givaudan’s patented VivaScentz technology. We all know that fragrance has mood-enhancing qualities and this “innovation” I quote “is a design tool allowing perfumers to create compositions that will enhance well-being, based on the understanding of the link between fragrances and wellbeing”.
I contacted the perfumer to explain the workings of this technology but hadn’t heard from him as deadline loomed (understandably, he’s a busy man. Fortunately, all I really need to know is that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP delivers all that it promises with consummate ease: refreshment, calmness and relaxation. And who doesn’t need that right now?
CASTING AND CAPTURING SHADOWS: I’m easily distracted, so Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP is just what I need.
Apart from the white tea accord and musk, none of the notes is particularly prominent, yet they all contribute to the overall effect. As an EDP, it costs a fraction more than the original EDT. It’s not a reinvention of my favourite but has more depth and definition.
This is versatile+, especially in spring and summer, so wear it wherever and whenever you want a sense of upliftment. With its feel-good properties, it’s also the perfect fragrance to wear to bed. (If you don’t already do this, I beseech you do so ASAP!)
A QUICK GUIDE TO FRAGRANCES IN THE ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA RANGE
All these releases give the winning formula a different spin on the white tea accord theme, with musky aplenty in the drydown.
ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (2017)
Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening of this Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Guillaume Flavigny and Caroline Sabas co-creation is a fresh ’n breezy mix of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) accents. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, it’s as good as I remember it when I tried it for the first time in 2017.
ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA WILD ROSE EDT (2019)
The first of two flankers that were released simultaneously. Guillaume Flavigny and Rodrigo Flores-Roux add fresh ’n fruity touches of red currant, pear blossom, rose and peony to the white tea blend, with just the right amount of sweetness.
ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA VANILLA ORCHID EDT (2019)
A richer, warmer, sweeter, almost gourmand-y take on the motif with marked notes of vanilla orchid, gardenia, jasmine and vanilla. A creamy and chic Gil Clavien composition.
ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA MANDARIN BLOSSOM EDT (2020)
Gil Clavien keeps it fresh, warm and inviting with sunny notes of mandarin orange, orange blossom, jasmine and osmanthus.
ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA GINGER LILY EDT (2021)
Transitions from fresh citrus notes of orange, bergamot and neroli to the warmth of ginger and ginger lily blossom. Uplifting spice and all things nice.
Social media isn’t always a reliable gauge of a brand’s increasing popularity / success, but in the case of Stéphane Humbert Lucas, it most certainly is. While the surge might imply an overnight success story, it’s taken 10 years for the Paris-based house to get to where it is today.
I use Stéphane Humbert Lucas Gemstone EDP and Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP to highlight why it should be on your fragrance radar ASAP. And because it’s not just any ol’ brand, I’ll approach these two standouts in a different way too.
So who is Stéphane Humbert Lucas?
Artist, poet, perfumer… Stéphane Humbert Lucas is all these things and more. While studying painting, he came upon his sight-smell synaesthesia (FYI: the neuropsychological trait in which the stimulation of one sense causes the automatic experience of another sense, thanks Encyclopaedia Britannica). His company is best understood as the expression of all his creative impulses and takes in art, music and literature as influences, too.
IMAGE: Stéphane Humbert Lucas.
Niche quality, right?
If you must use that hackneyed phrase, yes. From concept to execution, bottles to juices, Stéphane Humbert Lucas epitomises the spirit of niche. However, I prefer his description: “luxury artistic perfumes”.
Those bottles! Are the scents just as beautiful?
Gosh, you are impatient! But I appreciate your enthusiasm in wanting to know more. Gorgeous, aren’t they? And very much part of the brand’s appeal.
What makes Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP so special?
This brand debut (2012) from La Collection 777 reflects the perfumer’s love of the Middle East, “the cradle of the universe”, and the spiritual significance of the number seven (peace, perfection, wisdom).
It’s inspired by the holy Black Stone in the Grand Mosque of Mecca, Saudi Arabia, and French artist Pierre Soulages’ use of the colour black and its light-reflecting qualities.
A brief shot of lemon freshness from Sicily and three varieties of cedar give way to something altogether deeper and thoroughly captivating in the form of myrrh tar. The perfumer makes the most of the gum-resin ingredient, an essential element of oriental compositions, with its balsamic and spicy properties. Its warmth is complemented by the smokiness of incense, earthiness of teakwood and delicately sweet vanilla tones of tonka bean in the drydown.
The kind of scent to enhance quiet contemplative moments on your own.
And Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat?
In terms of its scent profile, this 2022 release from La Collection Serpent (the range explores various symbolic interpretations of the snake) couldn’t be more different from Black Gemstone. Where Black Gemstone is deep, mysterious and respectful, Venom Incarnat presents a more playful and hedonistic side to the perfumer’s work.
This olfactory interpretation of a love potion seduces from the start, with its fruity combo of blackberry, strawberry and wild strawberry notes. There’s more gourmandise via caramel and cinnamon. Rose? No, that would be the raspberry note at play.
The drydown brings out the spicy-woody facets of vanilla and patchouli against the backdrop of the sensual muskiness of Russian leather.
I love how it lingers on the skin.
Which other Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances would I recommend?
Quite a few actually, but these three (all from La Collection Serpent) are currently my top other picks. Ask me the same question next week and there’s a good chance, I’ll recommend some others.
Mortal Skin EDP (2015)
The first fragrance in the collection strikes a balance between intrigue and understatement. The fruitiness of blackberry meets a complex amber accord in which several notes are given room to breathe.
Lady White Snake EDP (2022)
Want florals? A hint of mandarin orange is followed by a full-on bouquet of the stuff (honeysuckle, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine, magnolia), with leather and musk adding to its sensual glamour.
Sand Dance EDP (2022)
The warm spice of whisky and cacao is infused with the creaminess of sandalwood. Kashmir wood (aka the synthetic Cashmeran – you can read more about the ingredient and my recommendations here) accentuates the cosy vibe with its customary muskiness, while vanilla-ish benzoin completes the delicious delight.
Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances are available in South Africa from Galeries de Parfums.
Cashmeran fragrances? Cashmere meets meringue? Er, no, but the synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least, and is found in everything from Cacharel LouLou EDP (1987) to Nasomatto Duro Extrait de Parfum (2007).
Discovered by John B Hall (the same International Flavors and Fragrances chemist who gave us Iso E Super) in the 1970s, it’s also known as blonde woods and cashmir wood.
It’s easy to understand its appeal to perfumers. More complex and versatile than most synthetics, it’s known for its cocooning muskiness and warm woodiness. It also has spicy, floral, fruity, powdery, pine-y nuances and is frequently used to build oud accords.
If you want to smell it in its unadulterated form, best get your nose on Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT.
The names of perfumers are included in brackets after the fragrances in this best cashmeran fragrances round-up.
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE DANS TES BRAS EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)
You know the niche cliché – the best perfumers and materials, unlimited creative freedom, quality and craftsmanship, blah-blah – but there’s much truth in it when we’re talking about this exemplary house. As with many fragrances from the company, this 2008 release is an undoubted genre best.
The muskiness of Cashmeran is the star of the show, with all the other notes contributing to its effectiveness. Violet and heliotropin bring on the powderiness, while sandalwood and white musk add smooth creaminess.
If Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur is unrestrained one-night-stand torridness, then Dans Tes Bras is the equivalent of a loving embrace.
THE HOUSE OF OUD BREATH OF THE INFINITE EDP** (ANDREA CASOTTI)
A stunning bottle doesn’t necessarily translate into a stunning perfume. No such worries with this 2016 release from the Italian niche brand that’s increasingly impressing us with its highly developed sense of artistry.
At first, this EDP from the Desert Day Collection whispers the freshness of freesia and peony notes. And then the powdery fruitiness of peach makes an appearance. All the while there’s a deep and distinctive sensuality delivered through a blend of Cashmeran, musk, Ambroxan and a touch of Irian oud (sourced from Indonesia).
There’s something quite sombre about it and I keep on coming back for more to try to work it out. But sometimes mystery must be left alone to work its magic.
NISHANE B-612EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (CHRIS MAURICE)
I love the inspiration behind this 2018 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Imaginative Collection: the smell of the asteroid in The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I love its execution, too.
It opens with the clean aromatics of lavender, cypress and geranium notes. Cashmeran gives it lots of musky woodiness, with sandalwood and cedar adding to the woody profile. Notes of powdery musk and earthy oakmoss in the drydown complete the composition.
Perhaps not as childlike as its inspiration, there’s still something comforting and nostalgic about this scent.
COACH FOR MEN PLATINUM EDP (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)
The American leather goods brand scored a big hit with their debut male fragrance in 2017, Coach For Men EDT. The 2018 follow-up, Coach For Men Platinum EDP, kept the good times coming in a richer, more sophisticated style.
The opening is fresh, spicy and aromatic, thanks to a combo of black pepper and juniper berry notes. A sliver of pineapple adds a touch of fruity sweetness. The smooth woodiness of Cashmeran is supported by the aromatics of geranium and sage. The drydown sees the creaminess of vanilla, sandalwood and a leather accord.
It encapsulates everything I enjoy about the brand: crowd-pleasing affordability.
For this 2020 release, the partner to Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT, brand founder and perfumer Geza Schoen wanted to create a summery Mediterranean island fragrance without the aquatic clichés. He succeeds admirably with a scent that’s simple but evocative.
It opens with bright citrus notes of bergamot and orange. Hints of fig and fig leaf add to the sunny ambience. There’s more freshness of the aromatic variety from notes of juniper berry, rosemary and laurel, with the distinctive earthiness of cypress towering above it all.
The drydown displays Cashmeran at its resinous pine-y best, with supporting depth from mastic and labdanum. ISO E Super and Ambroxan also feature in the mix.
FRAGRANCE DU BOIS NEW YORK 5TH AVENUE EDP** (SHADI SAMRA)
With its seductive-sounding name, Petales de Cashmere EDT, I thought the 2016 release from the French niche brand must be a Cashmeran treat. I was wrong. The synthetic is to be found in all its glory in the 2020 release New York 5th Avenue.
Inspired by winter in the city, it opens with a crisp take on bergamot and especially rose. It gets sweeter and warmer with the richness of caramel and the spicy earthiness of cypriol oil. A subtle note of violet adds a touch of powderiness. The drydown of vanilla, musk and guaiac wood is given a silky-smooth finish via Cashmeran.
While undeniably sweet, it’s seriously sophisticated stuff.
ELECTIMUSS MERCURIAL CASHMERE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (SOFIA BARDELLI)
An apt name for a fragrance that changes from the light and bright to the sensual and deep.
This 2021 release from the London-based niche brand starts out in fresh and spicy mode with notes of Madagascan pink pepper, cardamom and Italian bergamot. The powder of iris and violet is paired with the white floral intensity of tuberose and the slight saltiness of a note of ambergris.
Cashmeran is at its musky-woody best in the drydown. There’s more sweetness (just enough) from notes of caramel, vanilla and tonka bean. I don’t pick up much of the listed oud note, but that’s just me being fussy.
Named for the Roman god Mercury, it might imply a rapid change in mood from charming to nasty, but this beauty is definitely about the former.
CARON NARCISSE BLANC EDP* (JEAN JACQUES)
The venerable French house that was founded by Ernest Daltroff in 1904 is experiencing a renaissance under the leadership of investor Ariane de Rothschild and in-house perfumer Jean Jacques.
Originally launched in 1923 and recreated in 2020, it begins with the citric tones of essences of Italian bergamot, sweet orange, Tunisian neroli and Tunisian petitgrain. It’s fresh and slightly green. The quality of the ingredients is evident.
It moves into more heady and honeyed territory with Tunisian orange blossom absolute and narcissus absolute. They are given a delectably creamy infusion with Cashmeran and vanilla, while another popular synthetic Ambroxan ensures it doesn’t collapse into heaviness. Superb stuff!
*These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
**These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.
Who hasn’t helped themselves to Molton Brown products when staying at the right kind of hotel? But the British brand doesn’t only just produce top-notch amenity, bath and body products; the Molton Brown fragrances offering is equally impressive.
IMAGE: Molton Brown.
Founded by Caroline Burstein and Michael Collis (pictured, below) in 1971, the company started out as a hair salon on South Molton Street, London, and has come to represent the best of British over the years (all products are made in England).
IMAGE: Molton Brown.
Molton Brown made its scent debut in 1984 with Orange Grove (now known as Orange & Bergamot). In recent years, it has increasingly focused on these releases and offers them in both EDT (the transparent glass bottles) and EDP (the fancier bottles with resin caps) concentrations as part of its broader ranges. A clever way to get us to want even more of their goodies.
The brand’s sophisticated but ultra-wearable fragrances are clearly made with quality ingredients and also score points for their cruelty-free, 100% vegetarian credentials.
I’ve featured a mix of EDT and EDP formats here. While the concentration is obviously one of the main differences between the two, they also have varied note emphases.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
Have you tried any Molton Brown fragrances?
MOLTON BROWN RE-CHARGE BLACK PEPPER EDT (JACQUES CHABERT)
I love fragrances that live up to their names, and this 2015 release does just that with gusto.
The title note is at its warm and spicy best in the intro. It’s contrasted with the freshness of lemon and ginger. There’s more freshness, of the herbal variety, from notes of coriander and basil. The drydown is on the earthy side, with notes of vetiver and oakmoss adding the finishing touches.
If you want a softer take on spice, I recommend Molton Brown Fiery Pink Pepper in either the EDT or EDP formats.
MOLTON BROWN MESMERISING OUDH ACCORD & GOLD EDT (SYLVIE FISCHER)
Every brand has their take on oud, so I was expecting Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold to just be another one. I was wrong.
This 2015 release opens with the distinctive warmth of cinnamon leaf oil, without the overdone sweetness. There’s a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. The spicy warmth continues with notes of myrrh and elemi.
Okay, so the headline oud is almost certainly not the real thing (hence the use of the word “accord”), but a quality synthetic version is blended oh so smoothly with honey, tobacco and vetiver to produce an enchanting effect.
MOLTON BROWN HEAVENLY GINGERLILY EDT (JACQUES CHABERT)
I’m nowhere near Tahiti, the inspiration for this 2015 release, but this Jacques Chabert creation provides the exotic escapist goods in abundance.
Zesty ginger takes the lead in the intro, with additional spiciness from notes of cardamom and clove.
Notes of lily and tagetes pick up on the spice of the opening, while tuberose, animalic and creamy, also contributes to the island life ambience. After all that floralcy, the drydown is toned down but still appealing, with clean white musk blended with aromatic cedarwood and milky sandalwood.
This is strong stuff for an EDT, so only a spray or two is required.
MOLTON BROWN TOBACCO ABSOLUTE EDT (ELSA CHABERT)
This 2015 release will tell you, in no uncertain terms, why I rate Molton Brown fragrances so highly.
The citric freshness of bergamot and grapefruit is given a spicy balsamic twist with elemi in the intro. The rich warmth of tobacco meets the sensual softness of cedarwood and powderiness of orris and violet. It gathers depth in the drydown with the spicy complexity of Peru balsam supported by the earthiness of patchouli.
It’s cosy, distinctive stuff and I love how this EDT contrasts fresh and warm facets with seemingly effortless flair.
MOLTON BROWN COASTAL CYPRESS & SEA FENNEL EDT (CARLA CHABERT)
This 2017 release was one of the first Molton Brown fragrances I tried. I loved it so much, I had to try more releases from the brand. That’s how good it is.
It opens with a spicy sprinkle of cardamom, while notes of sea fennel and bergamot add to the freshness.
It’s not long before the sea notes come through. Together with the notes of cypress, cedarwood and musk, they create the effect of a salty and aromatic breeze on skin.
Energising and uplifting, it has more than enough character to stand out in the well-worn aquatics genre.
MOLTON BROWN RUSSIAN LEATHER EDT
Russian leather is a sub-category of the broader leather fragrance category and takes its inspiration from the birch oil-treated skins that were originally exported from the country until the early 20th century.
While Molton Brown’s 2017 contribution to the genre doesn’t quite scale the heights of the standard-bearer Chanel Cuir de Russie, it’s still darn good stuff and significantly cheaper than the classic from the French brand.
It’s deep and rich from the opening, with notes of black tea and elemi at the fore. That gathers momentum with the green aromatics of pine. When the leather accord comes through, it’s infused with the smokiness of notes of tobacco, birch, vetiver and cade. It’s animalic but very wearable at the same time.
MOLTON BROWN MILK MUSK EDT (MAÏA LERNOUT)
Comforting and enveloping… I can’t think of a better way to conclude a rough week than with this 2020 release.
It opens with the subtle fruity notes of pear and peach. Perfumer Maïa Lernout (who also created the beautiful floral tropicana of Flora Luminare for the company) adroitly builds a milky accord around musk, Ambroxan, vanilla, white cedarwood and tonka bean.
It’s sweet, powdery, nostalgic, sensual and soothing. Just what I need when I’m feeling somewhat frazzled.
MOLTON BROWN LABDANUM DUSK EDP (NATHALIE KOOBUS)
This 2021 release is every bit as mysterious as it sounds.
The opening is all about the woody aromatics of cedar, with the leathery spice of saffron in support. There’s spicy earthiness from notes of cypriol and patchouli. Labdanum, an integral part of an amber accord, dominates the drydown with its deep muskiness. Touches of oud (sustainably sourced from Dubai, according to the company website) and vanilla complete the composition with elegant finesse.
It’s seriously good stuff that strikes a deft balance between its Middle Eastern inspiration and accessible Western wearability.
MOLTON BROWN DELICIOUS RHUBARB & ROSE EDP (VANESSA PRUDENT)
The name of this 2022 release says it all.
There’s lots of juicy fruit in the opening, thanks to notes of litchi and raspberry, with a note of grapefruit balancing all the sweetness. The rhubarb is just how I love it: fruity and spicy.
Notes of peony and rose keep the freshness going, with the subtle rosy spiciness of pink pepper in the background. The drydown belongs to the softness of cedarwood and musk. It’s shot through with the creaminess of vanilla.
It’s one of the best fruity-florals I’ve tried in recent years, and that says something.
MOLTON BROWN ROSE DUNES EDT (PHILIPPE PAPARELLA-PARIS)
The brand’s 2022 release presents a more opulent and oriental take on the queen of florals.
That vibe is evident from the first spray with its intriguing combo of spicy saffron and green cassis. The rose, woody and powdery, is paired with the green aromatics of geranium for extra effect. Patchouli, sustainably sourced from Salawesi island, Indonesia, is known for its earthy spiciness, and gives the composition sensual depth together with musk.
All these Molton Brown fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
I started following Harry Frémont on Instagram sometime in 2022 and was immediately impressed by his gardening. Could this be the Harry Frémont, the master perfumer behind a legion of classics (see below)? Had he retired? And if so, why, and what was he up to now? My journalistic mind was spinning away and needed answers.
IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
After several DM exchanges, Harry Frémont came back to me with emailed replies to my questions. But before I get to the meat of that, a bit of background on the man who during his more than three-decade career created fragrance hits such as:
+ Aramis New West For Him EDT (1988)
+ Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994)
+ Ralph Lauren Polo Sport EDT (1994)
+ Lancôme Miracle EDP (2000)
+ Michael Kors Michael For Men EDT (2001)
+ Kenneth Cole Black For Men EDT (2003)
+ Avon Extraordinary EDP (2005)
+ Juicy Couture EDP (2006)
+ Vera Wang Princess EDT (2006)
+ Tom Ford Noir de Noir EDP (2007)
+ Tom Ford Tuscan Leather EDP (2007)
+ Harajuku Lovers Baby EDT (2008)
+ Diesel Fuel For Life Unlimited EDP (2008)
+ Tom Ford Grey Vetiver EDP (2009)
+ Britney Spears Cosmic Radiance EDP (2011)
+ Clean Clean Skin EDP (2012)
+ Estée Lauder Modern Muse EDP (2013)
+ Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris EDP (2016)
+ Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca EDP (2018)
IMAGE: Lancôme.
Born in Cannes, France, and a graduate of the prestigious Isipca perfumery school, Harry Frémont moved to New York City in 1990 as the Swiss company Firmenich’s first full-time perfumer there. Instrumental in establishing the firm’s credentials in the all-important American market, he received several Fragrance Foundation Awards, including 2003 Fragrance of the Year – Women’s Luxury for Vera Wang EDP, 2004 Fragrance of the Year – Men’s Prestige for Kenneth Cole Black For Men EDT, 2007 Fragrance of the Year – Women’s Prestige for Juicy Couture EDP and the 2017 Lifetime Achievement Award.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
Now, officially retired, his answers reflect a freedom from the stifling demands of corporate life, insights into a changing industry and the joy of immersing himself in what truly matters. It’s a longer interview than usual, with so much astute detail, so pour yourself a glass of your favourite and enjoy.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
What fragrance are you wearing today? Why did you choose it?
I am not wearing any fragrance today. We live in the middle of nature and I love fragrances, but nothing is better than fresh air, the smell of trees, leaves, grass, the wind or the rain.
I occasionally wear fragrance when we go into town but always very little, as almost no one wears fragrance in rural California. I always go back to the same one: the original Purple Label EDT from Ralph Lauren [2003] that I created and a woody fragrance that I worked to death for a project that I lost (weirdly enough, I go back to my first trial).
IMAGE: Ralph Lauren.
From time to time, I also wear two classics: Calvin Klein for Men Eternity EDT [1990] and a fragrance I always wore when travelling as a perfumer: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT [1996].
You retired in 2018. You mentioned in our initial chat on IG that the industry was changing. Please elaborate on how this influenced your decision to retire.
Difficult question to answer without going back to the big changes the industry went through in the last 30 years, in NYC, in particular, but also globally. My decision to retire is more linked to the evolution of the fine fragrance business rather than the changes before 2018.
I also want to say I am grateful for being part of that business for so many years. You always have young people who are beginning with the same passion and enthusiasm I had when I started. I find this very refreshing.
The 1990s were my first decade in NYC and America. It was hard at the beginning because Firmenich [the Swiss fragrance and flavour company he worked for] was a newcomer, but by ’92/’93 we started being successful and the business had a lot of glamour. Most of the top sellers were from American companies, products with strong concepts and an enticing style of perfumery: fresh, transparent, very floral, clean woods…
The [economic] crisis of 2000 and September 11 changed everything: the department store fragrance business started to suffer, possibly because a lot of cosmetic brands and make-up artists started to take over the fragrance floor. Speciality retail, with Bath & Body Works and Victoria’s Secret, were growing by leaps and bounds, churning out new products all the time. The fine fragrance concepts were not as strong and precise. Fragrances started to become heavier and our clients had a lot of hesitations to take decisions.
IMAGE: Bath & Body Works.
At the same time every celebrity wanted a fragrance. The fragrance business in Latin America, especially Brazil, was becoming more and more important.
Requests for flankers were starting to appear. All this increased tremendously the amount of work created for the perfumers and we had to adapt.
“At the beginning it was exciting and you felt powerful but it became like an exhausting mind game or an addiction.” – Harry Frémont
Around 2000, some of us perfumers discovered we could work remotely, transferring formula modifications to our office or affiliate if the evaluators at the office were giving us the right comments. From that point I never unplugged, even when on vacation or travelling, except for the week between Christmas and New Year when the company was closed. At the beginning it was exciting and you felt powerful but it became like an exhausting mind game or an addiction. Even if my focus was our North American clients, I was working on a crazy number of projects at the same time in different time zones.
IMAGE: O Boticário.
Then came the [economic] crisis of 2008 and the decade that followed was not my favourite. A lot of things changed again. You had to work much more to win business, which was becoming very fragmented and with most of the time a short shelf-life, with the launch of so many flankers, it became difficult to build classics.
Niche and boutique fragrances were emerging. At the beginning I thought they would save us and bring back the quality we were losing in fine fragrance and they kind of did. But they confused customers even more…
Some of our clients started development teams for all their different brands, looking for new ideas without concepts and then working these fragrances to death with heavy consumer tests.
The business model of the flavour and fragrance companies needed to evolve. Symrise and IFF followed the example of Givaudan and finally Firmenich did the same last year with the merger with DSM [the Dutch health, nutrition and bioscience company]. All evolving into bigger multinational corporations and branching out into health, nutrition, etc, and providing a wider range of products and services bringing the budget for research, safety, testing, sourcing, etc. The fragrance industry today is the sum of so many competencies and synergies.
IMAGE: Victoria’s Secret.
After working 28 years in NYC, I had built strong relationships with clients and some of them were leaving the industry to be replaced with young people who didn’t have necessarily the same experience. On a personal level, even if I still had this passion for fragrance creation, the process was becoming less fulfilling, sometimes really frustrating, and a new life was waiting for me and my family in California, where we had found our happy place and where I could enjoy my other passion to the fullest: gardening! It was time for me to go.
IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
From your Instagram page, it looks like you are well on your way to becoming a Master Gardener. Was gardening always a passion of yours, or did this develop in recent years?
Gardening has always been a passion of mine; I started when I was five years old in my parents’ garden in Cannes. Living in northern California is almost like reliving my childhood with a Mediterranean climate.
After gardening for 28 years in New York, it is like gardening paradise if you have water: we have no rain from May to October, so the flowers have a long blooming time, with almost no disease on roses and vegetables. Because of the mild rainy winters, you can also play with wild flowers. Seeding them before the first rain, they grow all winter to explode in colourful blooms when April comes.
GREEN FINGERS: Harry Frémont with one of his grand-daughters in the greenhouse he built himself. IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
Is gardening similar to perfumery in any ways?
Absolutely! In both cases you need to be patient and then you need to have the vision for what you want to create. Pick the right plants with the right colours to blend together. You have to be sure one plant is not going to overtake the other. Colour, odour, they are remarkably similar if you blend them right, they can really express emotions. When you love someone flowers and perfumes are the best gifts! (Okay, there is also chocolate.)
IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
Gardening like creating perfumes is hard work. One is back-breaking and the other can be mind-bending; there is a steep learning curve but you keep learning year after year. As a perfumer it took me 10 to 15 years to feel I was mastering the craft. For gardening, experience is important too but sometimes if you move location with a different climate, you have to learn again.
IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
Beyond the creativity and experience, I always said that communication skills are vital to be a successful perfumer. Perfumes are so subjective but when someone makes comments about a fragrance there is always something true about them. So you need to listen, understand, translate in your formula and then explain what you did so the evaluator or the client feel confident and understand what you did is the right decision.
IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
With gardening there is no one to talk to (which is refreshing!) but you still need to read the signs from nature about the soil, the plant and take the right action to answer their need. Like with perfumes you need to be curious, observe to get the intuition for what you need to do.
“I am totally convinced that I would not have been a good perfumer if I did not have this love for nature and gardening.” – Harry Frémont
I am totally convinced that I would not have been a good perfumer if I did not have this love for nature and gardening. Smells from nature – flowers, woods, leaves, etc – have always been my biggest source of inspiration.
IMAGE: Harry Frémont.
From your IG page, I see you’ve also spoken out about Donald Trump. What are your thoughts on the current state of American politics?
Honestly, it is quite depressing. I love this country and the USA is my adopted country. No politician has ever made me more upset. You can call me a Never Trumper and I thank him for becoming a Democrat for the rest of my life.
His lie about the 2020 election being stolen and the fact that Republican members of Congress keep supporting this, plus that possibly 30% of the US population still believe this lie, is just mind-boggling. This is a danger for the country, democracy, freedom and the world – look at what just happened in Brazil, mimicking the attack on Congress from 6 January.
The Republican Party is becoming like a rogue organisation populated by unhinged people, not respecting the norms and unfortunately on the wrong side of history about everything from renewable energy to women’s rights, gun control, immigration, science, you name it. They have no program, except the culture war and cutting taxes for the wealthy and corporations.
They will never win again the popular vote in a presidential election. There is a growing division between rural and urban voters and our electoral system in the constitution has a built-in bias towards rural Republicans: why is that Wyoming (a beautiful state) with a population of 580 000 gets three electoral votes, when California with 39,5 million people has only 55 votes? If the ratio was correct, we should have 200. And two Senate seats for every state? This is a joke. No wonder it is so difficult to pass legislation in Congress that will benefit every citizen.
IMAGE: Donald J Trump.
Did you always know you wanted to become a perfumer? Or was there another career option for you?
Because of my love of gardening and flowers I wanted to be a landscape designer. I tried to get into an engineer horticultural school in France but I failed the entrance exam, so I did a first degree of biology at Nice University. At the time I wanted to stay in the south of France, so I was looking for a career possibility there and a school to learn a job.
IMAGE: Université Côte d’Azur.
One of my parent’s neighbours was in the fragrance business and introduced me to someone in Grasse who had been to this school called ISIPCA in Versailles. With my first degree I could apply to enter directly in the second year and I got accepted. At the time I knew absolutely nothing about perfumes and I went there without really knowing what to expect. My motivation was to stay in the south of France and work in Grasse, which I never did.
IMAGE: ISIPCA.
After your studies at ISIPCA, what did you have to learn for yourself through experience?
Honestly, everything! ISIPCA was a fantastic school – after three years you had general knowledge of the fragrance business and the goal at the time was not really to teach you how to be a perfumer even if some of us became one.
We had a wonderful lady who taught us perfumery, Monique Schlienger, and one day we had to do a lilac, so she gave us materials to mix together. I started simple trials and after I compared them on blotters, one suddenly smelled exactly like my memory from the lilac that grew in my garden every spring. That was it! I had found a new career and a new passion. I had also found love, as I met my wife at ISIPCA.
IMAGE: The Perfume Society.
To go back to your question, once I graduated from this school, I had to learn everything to become a perfumer. I was never part of a training programme and never had a mentor. I just started at Haarmann & Reimer (H&R, now part of Symrise) in 1982 at their Paris office as an assistant perfumer, compounding formulas for another perfumer, and worked my way up working on the side when I had free time. Like many perfumers I am an introvert and we have this particularity: when we find something we are passionate about, we spend most of our energy to learn about it.
“Like many perfumers I am an introvert and we have this particularity: when we find something we are passionate about, we spend most of our energy to learn about it.” – Harry Frémont
As I had access to a gas chromatography machine and became pretty good at using it, once I understood the structure of the classics and the fragrances that were successful in the 1980s, I started doing some creations. I was extremely curious at the time and knew every fragrance sold in department stores from every fragrance house that existed (the market was simpler than now).
I was lucky and won in ’83 and ’84 the young perfumer contest for best fragrance from the Société Française des Parfumeurs. In ’85 H&R gave me the title of perfumer after a four-month stay in Germany.
IMAGE: Yves Saint Laurent.
I have always been hard working. We didn’t have a TV at the time and for five years, every evening after the kids were sleeping, I was working at home for at least two hours, sometimes on the weekends. So when I joined Firmenich Geneva in 1987 I decided I would never work from home again, until I realised I could work on formulas remotely in 2000.
IMAGE: Estée Lauder.
In Geneva I was kind of sheltered from clients but when I arrived in NYC, I realized that to be successful I also needed to become much better at communication. So it took me a few years to understand the power of words to describe a fragrance, as well as trying to read the body language from the people I was working with.
IMAGE: Aramis.
What was your fine fragrance debut and what do you think of it now?
It was a fragrance for men in an unusual black bottle for an obscure client at H&R. I don’t remember the name, but I remember it was quite expensive and I used great raw materials, natural and molecules, to create it. It was extremely woody and kind of smoky-leathery (leather smells are one of my obsessions). If I could smell it now, I would find it old-fashioned.
Calvin Klein cK One (which you co-created with Alberto Morillas) was one of your earlier successes. Why do you think it was and still is such a hit?
It is a combination of the character of the fragrance – fresh and easy to wear – with the way it lasts on skin. This creation has a trail and aura without being overpowering.
Many fragrances today are just too strong, which makes them difficult to wear for yourself and the people around you. To be an enduring success, you need to have this feel-good effect for yourself and constant reinforcement from the people around you that this fragrance is so good on you. That’s how classics are made.
“To be an enduring success, you need to have this feel-good effect for yourself and constant reinforcement from the people around you that this fragrance is so good on you.” – Harry Frémont
Also, the concept, the simplicity of the bottle and its sea-glass soft feeling in your hand that convey a certain sensuality that you find in the fragrance after a few hours on skin. People think fresh for cK One because of the citrus-aromatic feeling on top but there is this hidden sensuality with the woods, the musk combination and even a tiny tinge of vanilla.
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver must be one of my favourite creations of yours. What can you tell us about its creation? And what was it like working with Mr Ford on this project?
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver is possibly one of the most fulfilling projects I worked on. I have always loved the raw material vetiver oil. It is one of the most complex essential oils, analytically but also from an olfactive point of view with so many facets you can play with and blend with other materials.
IMAGE: Tom Ford.
I always wanted to do a high-end vetiver fragrance and I tried many times with different clients but they were afraid to do that (thinking it was too polarising) and I never had enough money to make a great one. When we got this brief from Karyn Khoury [Senior Vice President of Fragrance Development Worldwide for The Estée Lauder Companies], I was so excited. I could see what Mr Ford wanted with this new request – the level of sophistication, almost like a classic with a modern twist – having worked on Black Orchid (that we had lost to Givaudan) and some of the Private Blend Collection like Tuscan Leather, White Suede and Noir de Noir.
KEEP IT BRIEF: Karyn Khoury, Senior Vice President of Fragrance Development Worldwide for The Estée Lauder Companies. IMAGE: Estée Lauder.
I started working on it with the idea of building the whole fragrance around vetiver. Quickly I realised, even with the good amount of money Lauder had given us to work with, it wasn’t enough, especially because we had this amazing CO2 vetiver roots extract – the perfumer’s dream vetiver without any of the bad notes that you find sometimes in the regular oil, very pure with a lot of depth and character.
IMAGE: Tom Ford.
My idea was to show this vetiver in its best light and as the main character. I had, of course, to convince the salesperson who explained the situation to Karyn who accepted to look at my creation. I had worked so much on vetiver blends in the past that the fragrance came together quickly and I didn’t do too many trials once I had found the right balance between the citrus-aromatic slightly fruity top, some floral spices in the mid and modern woods and musks in the back.
IMAGE: Tom Ford.
The stars were aligned: both Karyn Khoury and Tom Ford liked and picked my fragrance. We did some tweaks to it but nothing drastic. The following year in 2010, we won The Fragrance Foundation Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year. Mr Ford has a real vision for the fragrance he is looking for and has a keen eye for details and quality fabric for his fashion or fragrance materials. Grey Vetiver, for me, is like a tailored men’s suit that fits you perfectly with a light, high-quality fabric like Italian super 150’s wool.
“Mr Ford has a real vision for the fragrance he is looking for and has a keen eye for details and quality fabric for his fashion or fragrance materials.” – Harry Frémont
I didn’t meet Tom Ford for Grey Vetiver – the development went very fast. But I met him many times during the development for Black Orchid and at the beginning of the Private Blend Collection.
Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud (2012) is superb stuff. You co-created this with Pierre Negrin, Frank Voelkl and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. How did you contribute to it?
Hehe, this is quite funny! If I remember correctly, this fragrance was originally created by Jacques and after a few years there was a colouration problem. I worked on it to fix it without changing the character… not very glamorous! I think Frank and Pierre worked on it after I left the company, as they relaunched the line not long ago. I am not 100% sure.
IMAGE: Ermenegildo Zegna.
What did you try to achieve with all your creations?
Beauty and make people happy, make them feel good. Both are difficult to achieve because as a perfumer you don’t work in a vacuum and you have to deal with many opinions to finish a fragrance. But in my head, I had always this compass to guide me through the numerous modifications.
IMAGE: Ralph Lauren.
Fragrance is one of the most subjective things, so every time you do this journey from your original idea/creation to the finished fragrance that will be launched, it is always a challenge and every day you must find solutions within your vision to modify the fragrance to address the concerns from your client or even the people you work with.
This is why I compare sometimes fragrance development to a mind game. To stay in control, you must time your mods [modifications] during the course of a project. Unfortunately, it happens quite often that you lose control. That’s why you have all this teamwork going on between perfumers on the big projects.
IMAGE: Calvin Klein.
People forget that our sense of smell originally exists to make the difference between safe and danger the smell of fire, gas, spoiled food. And when you create a fragrance, you need to take this into account; you want people who are wearing your fragrance to send a safe message to others; it is beyond seduction.
“I was always against fragrances that are overtly strong, almost aggressive, and are overwhelming for people around you. Power goes against beauty.” – Harry Frémont
This is the reason why I was always against all these fragrances that are overtly strong, almost aggressive, and are overwhelming for people around you. Unfortunately, for many people power is quality and goes beyond the real signature of the fragrance. Power goes against beauty, that’s the fragrance creation conundrum.
Of your many creations, is there one that has special significance for you?
Very difficult question! I guess I will say Romance from Ralph Lauren because going back to what I was saying above, it has everything I love about fragrance.
I was always pretty good at doing men’s fragrance but at the beginning of my career I was struggling with women’s fragrance. Romance was an important step for me to be successful in NYC. Also, years later so many women told me that it was the fragrance they wore in high school or college and how important it was for the image they wanted to project of themselves at the time. My mom wore it too and every time I smelled it, it reminded me of her.
Between these stories, smelling the fragrance in the street and the success, what could be more special?
You won several awards during your career. Where do you keep your them?
Awards are always special but once you are retired, you just need to look at them to feel great about your achievements in your previous life. They are very personal, so I have all of them in my bedroom at home.
People say you cannot create memories if you don’t have an emotion and it is so true. I could describe every minute from the event where I received them and my relief after every acceptance speech.
Synthetics are the backbone of modern perfumery and Ambroxan is probably the most well-known of these ingredients. That’s partly due to its prominence in hugely popular fragrances such as Dior Sauvage and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 in recent years.
The history of Ambroxan is a fascinating one. There was a time when perfumers would use ambergris (the substance excreted by the sperm whale and which hardens into a waxy, solid substance after floating in the ocean) for its animalic sensuality. Due to its rarity and high cost, an alternative had to be found by chemists. Enter Ambroxan – obtained from sclareol, a natural component of clary sage – in the 1950s.
So what does Ambroxan smell like? Depending on how it’s used, it can range from the fresh, soapy, mineral, salty and woody to ambery, sweet, creamy, musky and animalic. Apart from its versatility, perfumers also use it as a fixative to boost the performance of their creations.
MULTI-FACETED: Ambroxan is one of the most well-known synthetics. IMAGE: Kao Chemicals.
Almost all fragrances which have “ambergris” as one of their listed notes (including niche varieties) actually refer to Ambroxan or any of the other chemical equivalents (for example, Ambrox Super, Ambroxide and Ambrofix).
If you want to smell Ambroxan in its unadulterated form, get your nose on Escentric Molecules Molecule 02 EDT. Juliette Has A Gun Not A Perfume EDP is composed only of Cétalox, a close relative of Ambroxan.
The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance in this best Ambroxan fragrances selection.
HERMÈSEAU DES MERVEILLES EDT (RALF SCHWIEGER & NATHALIE FEISTHAUER)
So you think Ambroxan is over-used and best avoided? This 2004 release from the French luxury brand will convince you otherwise.
Softly sweet orange makes a fresh statement in the intro. It’s given a peppery-balsamic spin with elemi (the resin from the Canarium luzonicum tree). Effervescent and warm, the amber element (aka Ambroxan) in this truly marvellous creation (FYI: “merveilles” is the French word for marvels) is complemented by the vanilla tones of benzoin in the drydown.
For some reason, this is officially a female fragrance, yet part of what makes it unusual is the absence of any typically feminine floral notes. Trust me, it’s 100% unisex and a modern classic to boot.
FRÉDÉRIC MALLEOUTRAGEOUS EDP* (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)
Sophia Grojsman is the legendary perfumer behind creations such as Estée Lauder White Linen EDP, Lancôme Trésor EDP and Yves Saint Laurent Paris EDP.
As you can tell from its flamboyant name, this 2007 release from the Paris-based niche brand sees her in delightfully playful mode.
It opens with fresh notes of bergamot, tangerine and green apple. Although not officially listed, we reckon there’s also slightly soapy aldehydes in the mix. The spice of cinnamon adds warm powderiness, without getting overly sweet. It’s in the drydown that this scent reveals it true magic, thanks to a combo of musk and Ambroxan. The effect is sparkling, sensual yet clean, and thoroughly addictive.
LE LABO ANOTHER 13 EDP* (NATHALIE LORSON)
You know you’re trendy when you’re commissioned by the editor-in-chief of the highly regarded fashion and culture AnOther Magazine to create an exclusive scent for them.
Synthetics are amped to the max in this 2010 release, which is actually a very good thing. The soft woodiness of ISO E Super and muskiness of Ambroxan are clearly evident, while the fruitiness of pear and jasmine are also present in the mix. The naturally derived musk, ambrette seed absolute, adds a silky dimension.
Not just another fragrance, for sure.
IMAGE: Le Labo.
CREED AVENTUS EDP* (JEAN–CHRISTOPHE HÉRAULT)
What more is there to say about this 2010 release that hasn’t already been said a million times? Well, quite a lot, actually.
Firstly, I’m glad its creator is at last getting the credit he deserves for his part in its phenomenal success. Secondly, while it’s rightly held up as the exemplar of pineapple perfection, it wouldn’t be Aventus without Ambroxan.
I contacted perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault and this is what he had to say: “Ambroxan is really key to Aventus. When Olivier Creed asked me to create a masculine perfume, he asked me to use Helvetolide, a musk he loves. I accepted, of course, and added: “I love Ambroxan myself, so I will begin the creation with a 50/50 mix Helvetolide and Ambroxan. More than that little story, Ambroxan gives Aventus part of its signature, long- lastingness and diffusion.”
But wait there’s more: “I still love Ambroxan, it’s one of my favourite ingredients. A few years ago, the marketing people in International Flavors & Fragrances [the company he works for] called me ‘l’homme-broxan’.” You don’t get any more authoritative than that.
ORMONDE JAYNE AMBRE ROYAL EDP** (GEZA SCHOEN)
The London-based niche brand founded by Linda Pilkington is synonymous with quality and craftsmanship. I’m yet to try an Ormonde Jayne fragrance I don’t love. Many of their releases were created by Geza Schoen (the perfumer behind cult niche brand Escentric Molecules).
This 2016 EDP enchants from the start with the freshness of bergamot and orange blossom at the fore. There’s more floral intensity from notes of rose and jasmine, with the powderiness of orris butter in support.
If anyone knows their way around Ambroxan, it’s Geza Schoen (after all, he released Escentric Molecules Molecule 02 EDT, featuring the synthetic in its unadulterated form). Here, he uses it to enhance the rich depth of the drydown featuring patchouli, an amber accord and cedar.
I have one word to describe it: wow!
VILHELM PARFUMERIE DO NOT DISTURB EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)
Okay, so I don’t quite get the connection between the inspiration – “deep in the basement of Studio 54, a place with no boundaries and a Do Not Disturb sign on the door” – and the execution of this 2016 release from the NYC-based niche brand. But I most certainly love every drop of it. And that’s what counts, right?
It gets going with an intriguing combo of fresh and spicy schinus molle (that’s pink peppercorn to you and me and, by the way, not related to black pepper) and the powdery earthiness of carrot and iris. Jasmine brings floral freshness to the blend. Patchouli meets Ambroxan and white musks in the drydown for a sensual finish.
For another hit of Ambroxan à la Vilhelm Parfumerie, I also recommend the 2020 release Body Paint EDP.
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN BACCARAT ROUGE 540 EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)
In the unlikely event that Francis Kurkdjian had to submit a CV for the position of Dior in-house perfumer, you can bet Baccarat Rouge 540 featured prominently under list of achievements. Apparently, this 2015 release is now the world’s most complimented / sought-after / copied scent.
Of course, as so often happens in fragrance-land, the more popular a perfume becomes, the more it’s hated online (let’s call it the Law of What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down), and that’s partly why I’ve gone with the even more exclusive extrait de parfum version from 2017.
Whichever one you choose, kudos where it’s due to this blend of saffron, hedione, ethyl maltol and Ambroxan that was created for the 250th anniversary of the crystal company Baccarat.
PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)
Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families. The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan.
In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.
The 2020 release, The Inimitable William Penhaligon EDP (inspired by the intrepid company founder), features Ambroxan in a lesser role.
Is this 2019 release from the French niche brand a musk fragrance or a fig fragrance? Either way, I love it.
It opens with the distinctive greenery of a fig leaf note (prominent throughout) and then layers of musk. The main ingredient is ambrette seed from Peru, the naturally derived musk distilled from the seeds of a variety of hibiscus, known for its woody-muskiness. It’s given more woodiness with Virginian cedar. Judicious use of the synthetics Ambrettolide and Ambroxan enhances the musky profile of the scent and its tenacity.
The result: a chic Parisian affair.
ATELIER DES ORS BLANC POLYCHROME EDP** (MARIE SALAMAGNE)
Let’s get the bottle-ogling out of the way first. With the gold flakes and curvy design, French niche brand Atelier des Ors has some of the snazziest bottles in the biz. This 2020 release is a modern take on the classic cologne style but at 20% concentration, it’s more powerful than most.
The intro features bright citric notes of lemon and mandarin, while rhubarb adds an element of vegetal greenery. There’s more fresh greenery from notes of petitgrain, jasmine, lavender and fig leaf.
Settling with earthy moss, clean musk and wafts of warm Ambroxan, it’s beautifully refreshing and chic stuff.
LOUIS VUITTON IMAGINATION EDP (JACQUES CAVALLIER BELLETRUD)
The French luxury brand made a grand return to the fragrance biz in 2016 after an absence of several decades. It has made up for last time with several standouts, including this 2021 release.
The opening hums with the spicy freshness of Calabrian bergamot and Nigerian ginger. Tunisian neroli gives it citric greenery, while Ceylon cinnamon adds contrasting spicy warmth.
Jacques Cavallier Belletrud uses an overdose of Ambrox and the aromatics of Chinese black tea to create something modern yet timeless. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the creator of classics such as Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme EDT, Cartier Pasha de Cartier EDT and Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT.
IMAGE: Louis Vuitton.
KILIAN APPLE BRANDY ON THE ROCKS EDP* (SIDONIE LANCEUSSEUR)
If anyone knows his booze (and I mean that in a good way), it’s the heir to the Hennessy fortune. Originally released in 2013 and now part of the Paris-based niche brand’s Liquors Collection, Kilian Apple Brandy On The Rocks lays on the luxe vibe (with, ahem, price to match).
The EDP’s fresh and spicy opening (bergamot, cardamom) gives way to an apple brandy accord, with lots of fruity-liciousness and vanilla woodiness.
An earthy oakmoss note keeps this 2021 release on the right side of sweetness, while Ambroxan gives the cool and chic composition musky sensuality.
JULIETTE HAS A GUN PEAR INC. EDP* (ROMANO RICCI)
Like Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun caused a bit of a sensation when it released a fragrance, Not A Perfume, featuring just Cétalox, a close relative of Ambroxan. That 2010 release and its 2019 follow-up, Not A Perfume Superdose, are well worth checking out. But it’s the 2021 release, Pear Inc., I recommend for its summery vibe.
True to its name, it delivers a juicy and fresh pear opening with just the right amount of sweetness. A large dose of Ambroxan gives it fizz, while musk keeps it clean.
Romano Ricci sure loves Ambroxan, as you’ll also find it in other worthwhile creations of his, including Lili Fantasy EDP, Anyway EDP and Another Oud EDP.
Creed Aventus. We’ve all heard of the decade-defining fragrance. But it’s only recently that its creator, Jean-Christophe Hérault, is being acknowledged for his part in its phenomenal success. Read my interview with Gabe Oppenheim, author of The Ghost Perfumer: Creed, Lies, & The Scent of the Century (Solicitude), for more on that scented saga.
Jean-Christophe Hérault deserves all the credit he’s getting for that 2010 release that’s spawned a mini-industry of clones, dupes and smell-a-likes (Oppenheim’s book again provides admirable detail here). But, as the summary below of some of his creations shows, there’s so much more to the Paris-based perfumer than Creed Aventus.
+ Balenciaga Florabotanica EDP (2012)
+ Comme des Garçons Amazingreen EDP (2012)
+ Karl Lagerfeld For Him EDT (2014)
+ Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Extreme EDP (2015)
+ Boucheron Ambre d’Alexandrie EDP (2017)
+ Mugler Alien Man EDT (2018)
+ Azzaro Wanted Girl EDP (2019)
+ Paco Rabanne Lady Million Empire EDP (2019)
+ Dolce & Gabbana The One For Men EDP Intense (2020)
+ Roberto Cavalli Paradise Found For Men EDT (2020)
+ Coach Open Road EDT (2022)
+ Valentino Uomo Born In Roma Coral Fantasy EDT (2022)
+ Jacques Fath Vetiver Gris Parfum (2022)
IMAGE: Balenciaga.
While his father produced concentrates for the fragrance industry and Jean-Christophe Hérault initially pursued an internship in fragrance control after studying chemistry, his life took a dramatic turn when he met Pierre Bourdon.
The legendary perfumer (creator of Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EDT, Davidoff Blue Water EDT and Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP, among others) noticed something special in him and took him on as a trainee perfumer. This involved reading Marcel Proust’s classic six-volume novel In Search of Lost Time (Le Temps Perdu) before learning any of the technical expertise of the profession.
Early creations of Jean-Christophe Hérault include Canali Men EDT (2005), Grès My Dream Hommage à Marlene Dietrich EDP (2008) and Canali dal 1934 EDP (2009). They saw the perfumer playing with the pineapple note he perfected in Creed Aventus.
IMAGE: Parfums Grès.
In this interview, the senior perfumer at International Fragrance & Flavors (IFF) talks about the influence of Pierre Bourdon, his fondness for smoky, leathery notes and the power of wonderment.
IMAGE: IFF.
You grew up between Paris and Oise (north of Paris) and your father produced concentrates for the perfume industry. Did you know from an early age that you wanted to become a perfumer?
Since childhood, I have always been attracted to scents and perfumes. Perfumes are olfactive stories that move people on a different scale, much more profoundly and durably than other perceptions.
I initially worked in quality control for Fragrance Resources in Grasse. Working in Grasse opened my senses; smelling perfumery ingredients, raw materials and fragrances produced at the factory was truly mesmerising. Then I was fortunate to meet Pierre Bourdon, who helped me write my life’s next chapter.
That must have been a life-changing experience…
Being mentored by Pierre Bourdon was the most rewarding, beautiful, and complex experience of my life. It was a true gift from God to be trained by a perfumer I admire so much for his talent, choices, erudition, intelligence and articulacy.
He is a creative visionary and is able to beautifully share what he has seen, heard, or felt through fragrances. He taught me a lot about creation and becoming a professional creative.
What do you remember most from your time with him?
Before Pierre Bourdon started training me, he encouraged me to smell flowers. When you come from Paris, you do not know the smell of mimosa, jasmine, centifolia rose, lavender and lavandin cultivars. Even aromatic herbs are a discovery when you smell them in the heat, in the Mediterranean garigue. It fuelled my imagination and my passion.
He also encouraged me to look at chromatographs [the technique of separating a mixture into its individual components] to learn and memorise how a blackcurrant base, a rose essence, or a jasmine absolute are composed. He told me to use that time to learn as much as possible.
IMAGE: Viktor & Rolf.
Do you still ask him for advice?
I don’t really ask him for advice anymore. I believe a relationship with a mentor always has a beginning and an end.
Davidoff Cool Water Parfum is one of your recent creations from 2021. Pierre Bourdon created the 1988 original. Did you feel additional pressure taking on this project?
Not really. I was proud, though. As Pierre Bourdon’s former trainee, I immensely enjoyed working on this project. I wanted to ensure the continuity of the Cool Water story in an impressive way.
IMAGE: Davidoff.
How would you describe your style of perfumery?
It is always difficult for a perfumer to describe their personal style.
Fair enough. What do you hope to achieve with your creations?
Time hones your technique; you store tons of information, which helps you make shortcuts. We are only free once our knowledge is broad enough to play around with all the information we have in our minds.
But you have to keep that technique and knowledge on a leash, keep it at the right distance to preserve the freshness and the time spent daydreaming about the simple pleasures of childhood, which are so authentic and powerful, and resonate with so many people.
You must force yourself to continue seeing things with a child’s eyes, unencumbered by logic. That wonderment is what I give in my compositions. It’s the springboard to conveying emotions.
“That wonderment is what I give in my compositions. It’s the springboard to conveying emotions.” – Jean-Christophe Hérault
You’re getting recognition at last as the creator of Creed Aventus. What thoughts come to your mind when you see this super-successful scent?
I’ll never forget the Creed Aventus project. I worked directly with Olivier Creed and was given free rein. It was a true creative journey.
Have you read Gabe Oppenheim’s book? Your thoughts please.
I have received a copy, but still need to take the time to read it.
Do you have a favourite ingredient? Could you give an example of where and how you’ve used it?
I am very fond of smoky, leathery notes suggesting the smell of an open fire. There is a leathery note in Alien Man by Mugler expressed in smoky notes extracted from beech. In Aventus by Creed, I also used smoky notes.
“I like highly evocative ingredients, even when they are only present in trace amounts.” – Jean-Christophe Hérault
I like highly evocative ingredients, even when they are only present in trace amounts. Those fireplace and leather notes conjure up an entire world – a season, the countryside, the mountains, a new school bag, shoes and my mother’s fragrance, Shalimar by Guerlain.
IMAGE: Mugler.
What perfume project have you just completed and what can you tell us about it?
Kenzo Memori Poudre Matcha is a gentle and nostalgic fragrance, the embodiment of a happy memory, reminiscent of the Japanese tea ceremony. It is a beautiful cloud of matcha tea, velvet rose and white musk.
IMAGE: Kenzo.
What gets you through a stressful time?
Taking a stroll outside has always helped me to relax. We are fortunate to have a beautiful park next to our offices, one of the largest company parks in Paris.
There’s no doubting your perfume skills. What are your other passions?
I have always loved literature. Pierre Bourdon asked me to read In Search of Lost Time by Proust before I started working with him; it was part of our “contract”. This masterpiece shows that there are aesthetic forms everywhere that can touch and inspire us. An encounter, a feeling, be it love or sadness. This book helped me accept myself as a creative.
IMAGE: The Folio Society.
I am fascinated by art history, which led me to take classes at the Beaux-Arts de Paris. The subject has immensely contributed to my inspiration for perfume creation.
I am also fond of anything to do with culinary arts. There are many bridges between perfumery and cuisine, and I believe there are many more to build; the possibilities are endless.
Creed Aventus EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Choo! Choo! We all know the sound of the frag hype-train as it gathers steam. And there’s certainly been a lot of fanfare around Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP since its release in 2019.
Following stints at Dominique Sirop, Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermès and Giambattista Valli, Marc-Antoine Barrois (pictured, below) launched his own couture brand for men in 2009. He made his fragrance debut in 2016 with the cult favourite Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 EDP, and the recently released Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade EDP looks set to become equally popular.
IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede triumphed at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2020 in France, the UK and Russia, and was a finalist in The Art and Olfaction Awards in the same year.
It’s being hailed as one of the best leather fragrances in recent years. I tell you why it’s so special.
PERFUMER
I’m starting to think Quentin Bisch must be one of the busiest perfumers around.
Born in Strasbourg and a graduate of the renowned Givaudan Perfumery School, he made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
Creations for brands such as Etat Libre d’Orange (La Fin du Monde EDP 2013), Ex Nihilo (Fleur Narcotique EDP, 2014), Mugler (A*Men Ultra Zest EDT, 2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier (Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP, 2016) showed he was a talent to watch, whether for designer or niche.
Quentin Bisch has been in non-stop demand ever since, with everyone seeming to want a piece of the “star perfumer” (he’s too humble and focused on his work to let such flattery go to his head).
Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021), Kenzo Homme EDT Intense (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) are just some of his achievements.
SO WHAT DOES MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS GANYMEDE EDP SMELL LIKE?
It starts out quietly with a citrus note of mandarin orange, fresh and unsweetened. The spice saffron is known for its leathery qualities and its treatment here is deft and without any heavy-handedness.
What makes this scent most intriguing is the dynamic between the airiness of violet leaf, floral fruitiness of osmanthus and herbaceousness of immortelle. The combined effect is softly salty and metallic. It sounds clinical but is given a sensual musky aspect with the synthetic Ambroxan.
It’s all held together with a liberal dose of the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood. Quentin Bisch has used this ingredient in other creations of his, including Mugler Angel Nova EDP, Etat Libre d’Orange Experimentum Crucis EDP and Ex Nihilo Cuir Celeste EDP. Here, it has elements of patchouli and woody spice.
Much is made of the collaboration between brands and perfumers in an increasingly creation-by-committee world. It’s clear the partnership between Marc-Antoine Barrois and Quentin Bisch epitomises what niche is all about: the exploration and execution of unusual ideas (yes, a designer brand can be niche too).
IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.
The beauty of Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede lies in its subtle sophistication and that it doesn’t venture into obviously animalic territory. While understated, it’s also multi-faceted, unique and, as per its inspiration – “the two fellow artists have dreamt of this new planet: Ganymede, the rocky satellite of Jupiter discovered in 1610 by Galileo, is both luminous and covered with salt-water oceans” – a tad otherworldly (some might even say disgusting and strange, I disagree).
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
You might not have heard of Louise Turner if you’re not in the perfume industry. But you’ve most certainly seen / smelled one of her creations:
+ Jennifer Lopez JLo Glow EDT (2002)
+ Joop! Wolfgang Joop EDT (2008)
+ Chloé Love EDP (2010)
+ Roberto Cavalli EDP (2012)
+ Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lazy Sunday Morning EDT (2013)
+ Dior Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet EDT (2014)
+ Jimmy Choo Blossom EDP (2015)
+ Hugo Boss Boss The Scent Private Accord For Her EDP (2018)
+ Tom Ford Lost Cherry EDP (2018)
+ Ex Nihilo Lust in Paradise EDP (2019)
+ Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019)
+ Jo Malone Hemlock & Bergamot Cologne (2019)
+ Mugler Angel Nova EDP (2020)
+ Les Liquides Imaginaires Blanche Bête EDP (2021)
+ Dries Van Noten Raving Rose EDP (2022)
IMAGE: Givaudan.
Oh, and then there’s the super-successful Carolina Herrera Good Girl franchise, with its numerous flankers and limited editions from 2016 onwards.
Medicine’s loss was perfumery’s gain when the Brit dropped out of medical school and found herself a job working in the market research company of a fragrance-producing company. Although Louise Turner didn’t follow the traditional perfumery school route, her nascent skills caught the attention of Quest’s Alain Garossi and she was on her way…
Her fine fragrance debuts from 2001 – Trussardi Python Uomo EDT and Versace Versus Time To Relax EDT – have disappeared into the mists of the discontinued and forgotten. But the massive success of JLo Glow ensured Louise Turner had no reason to regret her change in career path.
In this interview, we chat about her unconventional training, competing for briefs and dealing with stress. It’s clear her time in France has influenced her vocabulary, so I’ve kept the occasional French word intact.
IMAGE: Mugler.
Where did perfumery start for you? Any particular events / memories that sparked this passion?
I have always been sensitive to odour and notice and associate smells with places and people. But like a lot of people didn’t know about this job until I literally tripped over it – my destiny!
Where did you study? And what did you most enjoy / find challenging about that experience?
I was following a medical path, with a dentistry option, at a medical school in London. A big mistake as I didn’t want to be a dentist. So after I dropped out and went back home to Kent to rethink what I wanted to do with my life, I chose to study environmental science. With almost 10 months before I could restart my uni course, I found myself a student job in the market research department of Quest International (a fragrance company taken over by Givaudan in 2007).
IMAGE: Maison Martin Margiela.
So there began my love affaire with perfume. I suppose I was in the right place at the right time as, after making a nuisance of myself and passing several smelling tests and interviews, Quest offered me a job as a trainee perfumer that I would start three years later after completing my studies.
Did you have a mentor?
I started in the UK in 1991 under a perfumer grassois [from Grasse] Alain Garossi who taught me the principles and helped to start my career – thank you, Alain! I then spent one year in the Netherlands before finally coming to Paris in 1996 (my dream) to start fine fragrance. I was supposed to stay two years and 26 years later, I’m still here.
IMAGE: Dries Van Noten.
Certainly not the usual route…
It was a vastly different world then. I have a rather unconventional training, as most people I work with have either been to Isipca [the Versailles-based perfume school founded by Jean-Jacques Guerlain in 1970] or have been formed at the Givaudan Perfumery School. I don’t think I would make the cut to get into the latter school today, as it is so difficult with so many people wanting to make this their career. I was really lucky!
“I don’t think I would make the cut to get into the Givaudan Perfumery School today, as it is so difficult with so many people wanting to make this their career. ” – Louise Turner
Tell us about the fragrance that got your career going. What do you think about it now?
Glow by JLo was a real phenomenon and unexpected success. The licence was with Coty at that time and Jennifer Lopez was directly involved in its creation – she wanted the smell of clean and fresh skin, which was inspired by the smell of a particular soap she used.
How do you start each project?
Each project is different, so I adapt depending on the client and their approach and expectations.
However, I nearly always start with a quite simple idea that’s usually figurative – for example, peony with spicy chutney – and develop it from there.
The creation of perfumes involves competing for briefs from various companies. Please explain how that process works. Is it something you enjoy?
The process is always competitive and client driven, either via a specific project that will be briefed to us and other fragrance companies or via a themed library approach where, for example, we are asked to submit new feminine oriental ideas.
IMAGE: Dior.
However, the competition is mostly felt internally as we perfumers are competing against each other and we rarely see the external competition.
Competition is part of a perfumer’s life – not the easiest thing to manage sometimes and keep the focus on your own game.
Let’s chat about the phenomenal success of Carolina Herrera Good Girl. What would people be surprised to know about this creation?
Good Girl is an amazing success – also very unexpected, as when we first launched it in 2016, it was destined for Spain, Latin America and Russia. But the interest kept on growing, which meant more and more launches worldwide. I travelled more for it than any other perfume.
There have been numerous Good Girl flankers since the launch of the original in 2016. How have you remained faithful to it while adding something different each time?
It is a simple idea of jasmine and tonka. It is very contrasted and powerful but success is always due to the mix: good perfume, bottle, name, advertising campaign and a good dose of luck.
Each flanker tells a different story while keeping the DNA of Good Girl. I worked on all these flankers with Quentin Bisch [colleague at Givaudan]. We work together a lot. He is the greatest.
Provocative name aside, Tom Ford Lost Cherry EDP must have been interesting to work on. What was it like to collaborate with Mr Ford on this 2018 release?
Working with Mr Ford is always a privilege. Such freedom of expression is a rarity today. Lost Cherry was a change for the brand in that it was the first fruity fragrance that he accepted – a new territory to conquer.
IMAGE: Tom Ford.
The unisex D by Diesel is one of your latest projects. More designer brands, at last, are going this route. Your thoughts please.
D expresses that tendance [tendency] for gender fluidity (which TF has been doing for a very long time). It’s good to allow people to choose what they really like rather than being pushed into gender-defined choices by obligation.
IMAGE: Diesel.
You’re equally at home creating perfumes for niche brands such as Ex Nihilo, Les Liquides Imaginaires and Maison Martin Margiela. How do these projects give you more creative freedom?
Yes, niche gives more freedom and is simpler to develop as it’s often direct ideas with only one person, so it’s much more straight to the point. They’re a breath of fresh air.
IMAGE: Les Liquides Imaginaires.
Behind the beautiful and glamorous façade, perfumery can be a high-pressure environment. How do you deal with the stress?
Perfumery can be stressful, particularly for someone like me who has a “stressed personality”, as everything is so fast and our clients are increasingly demanding.
“I try to deal with it by working from home part of the time (from my house in Normandy ) and working in my garden.” – Louise Turner
So I try to deal with it by working from home part of the time (from my house in the Normandy countryside) and working in my garden. Working with your hands is very good for destressing, especially when you’re in direct contact with nature.
