Fragrance Reviews + Interviews
My last Mauritius post. Promise.
This one is moody. A bit like me.
While a change of scenery can be good for you, the reality is you take your inherent temperament with you.
Perhaps a new style in progress. Or not.
Technically these are not perfect. A tad grainy. But that’s why I like them.
As I hadn’t travelled abroad for quite some time, I’m blaming my notoriously bad packing (too much stuff, most of which I never wear) on that reality. Next time, I’m trying my cousin’s strategy of five of each items which, apart from simplifying my life, would have given me more suitcase space for Mauritius fragrance shopping. T-shirts, shorts, shirts, sarongs, flip-flops (and even swimming trunks, I’ll spare you those pics) became my best clothing friends. If you missed my first Ile Maurice post (island life in an impressionistic style), here’s the link.
I was far more disciplined when it came to packing my fragrance and skincare products, all of which I used regularly.
The Parfums-Jardins Collection (“jardin” = garden in French) has impressed me with its quality and refinement since its launch in 2003 with Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée EDT.
This 2023 addition maintains the standard I’ve come to expect from the range that takes its inspiration from secret gardens (this time, the Greek island of Cythera, also known as Kythira).
It gets going with the freshness of citrus and woodiness of olive trees.
Coumarin is known for its grassy and nutty attributes, and there’s just enough of that here to contribute to the sunny ambience. Slightly salty and warm, the pistachio (increasingly popular in perfumery and cuisine) completes the escapist mood.
Where previous Jardins were characterised by degrees of lushness and greenery, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel wanted Un Jardin à Cythère to be neither green nor floral (I’ve taken creative licence here to include greenery and florals in my pics because it looks good). She realises that with deceptive ease.
The French luxury goods brand (FYI: Its value passed the €200 billion market value earlier this year for the first time, making it the world’s second-most valuable luxury brand after LVMH) does things differently in a subtle way. This EDT is a perfect example of that approach and will always remind me of my time away.
The French pharmacy brand doesn’t only offer quality skincare products. Its fragrance selection is impressive too. Whether you’re on holiday or not, this 2012 Serge Majoullier creation (inspired by the smell of the company’s cult Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse) is fabulous stuff.
The opening is fresh with the citrus of orange and bergamot, but not for long. There’s a lush white floral extravaganza via orange blossom and magnolia. Creamy vanilla and sandalwood, bordering on coconut, are given beach sandiness with skilful use of mineral effects. If that doesn’t sound like vacay vibes, sorry, your visa has been declined.
What’s a goth to do when there’s sun, sun, sun? Apart from hide under a hat and avoid the rays (kind of difficult on a tropical island), time to slather on one of the best SPFs I’ve tried in a long time.
My sister gave this to me before I departed for Mauritius. So glad she did. It’s non-greasy, non-sticky, easily absorbed formula is made with La Roche-Posay thermal spring water.
My mood wasn’t the only prickly thing before my break. My skin was showing the effects of stress and not looking after myself properly.
Started using Reviving Eye Care Anti-Puffiness, Anti-Dark Circles; Glow Rich Moisturising Cream 24h (neroli scented!); Essential Antioxidant Serum; and Radiance Detox Mask from the French pharmacy brand’s Bio range shortly after I arrived and have continued to use it since getting back to South Africa.
Apart from their organic credentials (*see below), thumbs up to these products for smoother, more moisturised skin.
*FYI (from the brand website): Certified organic by Ecocert, the formulas contain an average of 99% natural-origin ingredients and an average of 63% cosmetic ingredients from organic farming, in comparison with the required minimum of 20% certified organic ingredients out of the total required ingredients depending on the product category and COSMOS charter.
I instinctively knew I was going to need something refreshing and rejuvenating and with temperatures of 25°C+, I was chuffed with myself for bringing this 2016 release from the family-owned French brand. I chucked it in my everyday bag and it went everywhere with me when I needed a cooling spritz. Which was often and around the clock. See goth problems above.
It’s simplicity itself with notes of verbena (lemony-clean), yuzu (tart and green) and musk (for a bit of longevity, but not too much, it’s an EDC, after all, but so reasonably priced, just spray some more.)
My only complaint: I wish the company would share the name of the perfumer who created this gem, as it does with the releases from its Collection Grands Crus.
When I was in the mood for something warmer and more sensual, this 2019 release did the trick rather nicely.
It starts out all citrus-y with notes of bergamot and orange. The florals of freesia and jasmine add to the freshness. The cotton effect from the scent’s name is achieved through some clever lab work and accentuated with the enveloping woodiness of the synthetic Cashmeran and white musk.
If you asked me to sum up the smells of the island, it would include words like salty, marine, curry, floral, spicy, piment (the green chilli paste), Phoenix beer (especially when offered so early in the day and as I was on vacay, merci beaucoup). And citronella.
I doused myself in one of the local mosquito repellents but alas, the critters still wouldn’t leave me alone.
If South Africa is a blip on the global fragrance market, Mauritius is but a speck of sand. When I got home I realised all the island’s fragrance retail outlets would still be outnumbered by those in my local shopping mall. Obvious conclusion: You don’t go to Mauritius for fragrance shopping but don’t let that stop you from indulging in this essential activity.
In convenience stores (increasingly common), such as Intermart, London Way and Winners, you’ll discover eaux de cologne from brands such as Bien-être, Berdoues, Labell and L.T. Piver, all brilliantly priced. At the time of writing this, you’d be able to get your hands on 250ml of Bien-être L’Original Lavande de Provence EDC for roughly R130 / $7 / £5 / €6.
You’ll also find cheapies from brands such as Ulric de Varens. Don’t be put off by the lack of glamour and style in the way these are presented in-store. Apart from their value for money, EDCs are perfect for the island’s climate and lifestyle: splash and go.
Depending which one, you’ll find brands such as L’Occitane en Provence, Roger & Gallet and Yves Rocher.
The chain Mado offers a more conventional retail environment for fragrance and skincare shopping, with a wide selection of the usual designer brands (Dior, Chanel, YSL, Calvin Klein, etc). Twenty years ago, a shop like this would have been unthinkable and unviable. Mauritius has come a long way.
IMAGE: Mado.
Spotted this shop at the rather upmarket shopping centre down the road from where my aunt lives. The small international selection (Lalique and others) expensive, but the brand’s own fragrances cheap ’n cheerful. EMNT (explore more next time).
Never heard of this French company before, but apparently originally founded in 1747 in Grasse. Tried a selection of their fragrances (including the Collection Privée) and intrigued enough to want to know more about what they do (for example, fragrance workshops). DEMNT (definitely explore more next time).
So this is more like it. Spotted loads of bargains and stuff I wouldn’t normally be able to find easily in South Africa (for example, the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Collection). Well priced too, even with charges in euros.
However, with their low prices on booze (whisky, etc), my carefully cultivated holiday mood was under threat from the hordes loading up on Johnnie Walker and I made a quick exit. Next time, I’ll know what to expect.
The pic below says so much…
Me waiting for the flight to be called. Thinking, relieved to be away from Duty-Free, need to see my barber pronto, had a great time but this pigmentation needs serious attention. Will I get home in time before the scheduled power failure?
I was waiting outside the So’flo shopping mall, admiring the vegetation, when an employee of the Mauritius Tourism Authority and I started chatting. He recommended the following four essentials to buy while in Mauritius: vanilla, rum, masala, tea.
I agree, especially the locally produced rum, with two brands standing out for me: Chamarel and Bougainville (yes, my cousin’s wife’s family owns the company that produces it, but I’d still praise the deliciousness of this spirit, which up till now I’d only really appreciated as a perfume note).
Some of you might have noticed I was offline recently. If you were asking, “Where the hell is Richard?”, this post will provide several answers.
Okay, so I was in Mauritius. Visiting and reconnecting with family, attending a wedding, escaping from incessant power failures and relentless pessimism about the state of South Africa, taking a break from IG and experiencing a world that couldn’t be more different from the city I live in, Johannesburg. Actually, it was my first proper and much-needed holiday in years.
I was away for three weeks and it’s taken me another three weeks to go through and edit all the hundreds of pics I took. So here’s some snaps from my time in Ile Maurice, the Indian Ocean island that’s a four-hour flight from JHB. Trying to keep this mostly visual. Impossible to show everything. Wouldn’t want to be a vacay bore.
Part 1: Island life in an impressionistic style and in no particular sequence or importance.
Part 2: What I wore fragrance-wise, fragrance shopping, plus some skincare products.
Part 3: Moody. I’ll leave it at that for now.
Firstly, let me start by saying I was overwhelmed by the generosity and hospitality of my family, many of whom I hadn’t seen for decades (I was last in Mauritius in the 1980s, oui, I’m that old). They were most tolerant of my mangled Fran-glais and often took me on sight-seeing excursions. Some pics in this post taken from a moving car, hence the blurry drive-by shooting effect, which I quite like.
Going back to the wedding (my second cousin Alexandre et Rachel), these Mauritians sure know how to party. Below, guests at the wedding celebrating the entrance of the bridal couple. Standing on chairs, waving their napkins and singing the anthemic Johnny Hallyday hit Allumer le Feu. Apparently, the last people left the next morning at 4am. I left at the very sensible hour of midnight. Mon dieu!
If you want to see the more traditional postcard vistas of sun, sea, beaches, colourful architecture, mountains, etc, here we go…
And then flowers and more flowers. I became increasingly obsessive, as is my wont, with photographing blooms and the lush vegetation (the island was verdant, thanks to good rains). So just two of my favourites here, which capture the tropical vibe of the island well.
Even when overcast and misty, Grand Bassin / Ganga Talao is spectacular. It was deserted on the day we visited, apart from noisy monkeys. Imagine being here during the Hindu festival, Maha Shivaratri, when thousands of devotees celebrate the god Shiva.
Hunting is popular. Here, deer in the blurry distance. It’s incredibly well controlled and regulated. And if you’re okay with eating industrial-scale meat, you can’t really complain about shooting these animals. For the record: I didn’t take out Bambi’s mother but I understand the process more than I used to.
Beaucoup développement. All the more noticeable when an island is so small (61km long, 45km wide). The proliferation of roadworks, luxury homes and shopping malls a sign the place is in demand and on the up. How much is too much? Well, that would require another post.
Once almost totally reliant on sugarcane and tourism (still the mainstay of the economy), Mauritius has been positioning itself as a high-tech hub. Cybercity is an expression of that ambition.
ALIEN INVASION? Non, c’est le Mauritius Commercial Bank on a rainy day.
With development and increased prosperity, traffic congestion (“embouteillages” en français) is becoming a problem. But at least the scenery is a distraction while you’re waiting…
It’s going to the dogs. Non, pas de cette manière. The island is doing quite well in the scheme of things and is seen as an African success story. But there are lots of ownerless dogs loitering about. Like their human counterparts, they’re generally laid-back, not vicious at all. This cutie snapped outside the local shopping mall. No, you can’t come home with me.
It’s not all sun and beaches. There’s poverty too, especially among the Creole population. I took this pics on the bus (frequent and cheap) from Tamarin to Riviere Noire.
The bloody mosquitoes. Gosh, these things wouldn’t leave me alone, devouring me, I couldn’t stop scratching. Fresh South African blood, according to my cousin. Hmmm…
This rather threatening and ugly building is the Russian embassy. Opposite my aunt’s home in Floréal. I resisted all temptation to graffiti the walls with pro-Ukraine sentiments. Bon garçon!
As Mauritius imports most goods from countries such as South Africa, prices can be eye-watering if you’re not in the pound / euro / dollar seats. That sting was softened by the lure of fragrance shopping, which I will explore in the next post.
Sooner or later, it happens to all celebrities when they’re hot property… They’re faced with the big question: why don’t you launch your own fragrance? And so we shouldn’t have been surprised when Billie Eilish Eilish EDP joined the ranks of celebrity scents in 2021.
And just in case, if you’re wondering why the American singer-songwriter is such hot property (timing is everything in the celeb scent market), here’s a reminder.
Since her emergence in 2015 but especially with the success of her debut album When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go? and the single Bad Guy, Billie Eilish has bagged numerous Grammy, American Music, MTV Video Music, Billboard Music and Brit awards, among others. She’s also won a Best Original Song Oscar for the Bond tune, No Time To Die.
IMAGE: Billie Eilish Fragrances.
We can add her debut perfume, Billie Eilish Eilish EDP, to her list of achievements (it triumphed in The Fragrance Foundation’s 2022 Fragrance of Year – Popular category). What do I think of it? And does it herald a revival in the celebrity fragrance market?
IMAGE: Billie Eilish Fragrances.
Steve DeMercado is the man behind a whole bunch of fragrances, including Calvin Klein Escape For Men EDT (1993); Marc Jacobs EDP (2001); Escada Magnetism EDP (2003); Guess Man EDT (2006); and Vince Camuto EDP (2011).
IMAGE: OK Fine Fragrances.
The master perfumer is also the go-to-creator for celebrity fragrances. He created Paris Hilton EDP (2005); Jennifer Lopez Love At First Glow EDT (2005); Harajuku Lovers G EDT (2008) for Gwen Stefani; Queen Latifah Queen EDP (2009); Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights EDP (2010); Nicole Richie Nicole EDP (2012); and Rihanna RiRi EDP (2015).
He launched his own niche perfume company, OK Fine Fragrances, with Michael Simpson in 2020.
“Sugared petals” may be listed in the official notes, but I reckon that’s a sugar accord at work. It enhances the notes of mandarin orange and red berries with a soft sprinkle of sweetness.
It’s gourmand territory with the combo of creamy vanilla and earthy cacao. Powdery cinnamon features in the general spiciness. And there’s a delicate floralcy in the background. The warmth extends to the drydown where an amber accord is paired with lots of musk.
Billie Eilish wanted the olfactory equivalent of a warm embrace and this scent does just that in a cosy and comforting way. While it adheres to the gourmand template common to many celebrity fragrances, it’s sensual, sophisticated and more grown-up than you might expect (that sophistication extends to the bronze bust bottle – standout elegant stuff in a category that tends to be girlie-girl and sometimes, dare I say it, tacky). It’s sweet but not in an overpowering way.
Billie Eilish Eilish EDP has broad and accessible appeal, even if you’re not a fan of the star’s music and aesthetic. Kudos to her for asserting its unisex credentials by describing it as “a scent for everyone”.
The mega success of Jennifer Lopez JLo Glow EDT (2002) motivated other celebrities such as Britney Spears (2004), Sarah Jessica Parker (2005), Halle Berry (2009), Beyoncé (2010), Rihanna (2010), Madonna (2012) and Lady Gaga (2012) to launch their own perfumes.
When I interviewed Glow’s creator, Louise Turner, this is what she had to say about the fragrance: “The licence was with Coty at that time and Jennifer Lopez was directly involved in its creation – she wanted the smell of clean and fresh skin.”
“With the rise of niche brands and more demanding consumers, the category seemed out-dated and had a strong whiff of fakery.”
It was all going so well and then around 2016, the stats started to tell a different story. Celebrity fragrance sales had declined from 12% of the US market to 4%, according to Euromonitor. Things were equally grim in another key market, the UK. So much so that analysts proclaimed the celebrity fragrance market to be dead. With the rise of niche brands and more demanding consumers, the category seemed out-dated and had a strong whiff of fakery.
Fast-forward to 2023 and the success of Ariana Grande, Billie Eilish and Rihanna, with their emphasis on sophistication, authenticity and quality could see the sector back in business.
Billie Eilish Eilish EDP is available in South Africa at Dis-Chem.
I don’t like making predictions so early in the year (it’s only May, after all). But I’m willing to put my reputation on the line for Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense as one of the most popular. The 2023 release from the United Arab Emirates-based brand is everywhere at the moment.
Father and son Olivier Cresp and Sébastien Cresp teamed up for this scent.
You don’t get more accomplished than Olivier Cresp, the master perfumer behind the gourmand-pioneering Mugler Angel EDP (1992).
He also created Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001), Versace Man Eau Fraiche EDT (2006), Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011), Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP (2014) and Parfums de Marly Sedley EDP (2019). We can thank him (and colleague Nathalie Lorson) for maintaining the consistent quality of the Gentleman Givenchy range. In 2018, he launched his own niche brand, Akro, with his daughter Anaïs Cresp.
While not as well known as his father, Sébastien Cresp is also making his mark in the world of fragrance. His creations include Bath & Body Works Toasted Praline & Pear Fine Fragrance Mist (2019), Confessions of A Rebel Morning After EDP (2021) and Nissaba Provence EDP (2023).
See my interview with the creators of Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense at the end of this review. FYI: the number 33 refers to the amount of formula modifications that went into the creation of the perfume.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
“I wanted to combine my two favourite indulgences, fragrance & gelato! Ever since I can remember, ice cream has been my favourite food and always my #1 choice when asked what would be my last meal!
“In 2014, I went on a trip to Rome with my sister Alya and discovered pistachio gelato – I have been OBSESSED ever since! Just like the dreamy dessert, I wanted to create something that made me feel yummy, happy and irresistible!
“Working with Olivier Cresp (a world-renowned perfumer who is often credited as the ‘father’ of gourmand fragrances) and his son, Sébastien, was SO exciting. With every delicious spritz, you’ll feel like YOU ARE the dessert! – brand founder Mona Kattan
IMAGE: Huda Beauty.
It makes an impression right from the start. Pistachio can be a salty, savoury note but here it’s given the sweet gourmand treatment with an ice cream(y) accord that features the crisp citrus tones of bergamot and the additional woody nuttiness of hazelnut. The combo of cardamom and rum brings an element of spicy booziness to the treat.
There’s some floral-fruitiness in the mix too, but I’d be hard pushed to identify any specific notes. Nevertheless, it enhances the fresh aspect of the scent.
It’s in the drydown that Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense comes into its own. There’s a whole lot of powderiness via marshmallow, cotton candy (the synthetic ethyl maltol at work here, well known for its use in Mugler Angel EDP and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540) and a Turkish delight accord. I like how the latter gives a nod to brand founder Mona Kattan’s Middle Eastern heritage and reinforces the pistachio-ness of the composition (the nut is an integral part of the confection).
Most of all, though, it’s the whipped and sandalwood creaminess blended with vanilla-ish tonka beans that leaves a lasting impression.
As with many fragrances from the company – for example, Kayali Vanilla 28 EDP (2018), Kayali Déjà Vu White Flower 57 EDP (2020), Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 EDP (2021) – it’s unashamedly on the sweet spectrum.
Beauty entrepreneur Mona Kattan (Kayali falls under the Huda Beauty umbrella) is very in tune with what consumers want from their fragrances: boldness, distinctiveness and pleasure. And Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense delivers in all those ways. Yes, it’s being hyped, but that doesn’t stop it from being a delicious scent. Anyone looking for crowd-pleasing upliftment and escapism with addictive sugariness will appreciate this one.
Kayali fragrances are available in South Africa from Arc Store.
I go behind the scent scenes to find out more about the creation of the hit.
Sébastien Cresp (SC): No, my father is my mentor and [role] model since my childhood, so I obviously always discussed his trials [perfume tests] a lot with him. Naturally, when I became a perfumer, we started to share ideas, giving input to each other.
I love working with my father because when we share our ideas, we directly confront our points of view, and above all, we understand each other immediately. This creative dialogue between us is an extremely enriching experience for me.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
Olivier Cresp (OC): We are collaborating more and more together; we have already signed several fragrances together [for example: Aerin Lauder Rose de Grasse Pour Filles EDT (2021), Victoria’s Secret VS Him Deepwater EDP (2021) and O.U.i Original Unique Individuel Jardin de Grasse EDP (2021)].
It is a pleasure to exchange and discuss our ideas. Sébastien is very creative, and I enjoy working with my son. I am increasingly focused on passing on my legacy.
IMAGE: Aerin Lauder.
OC: Sébastien always leads me to explore new olfactive fields of possibilities, and Mona was also really challenging on her desire to create an ultimate gourmand fragrance.
She was involved in all stages of creation and challenged us on the pleasure that her fragrance should give. Mona wanted a perfume that pushed more and more gourmand as the different modifications went on. We shaped the notes together to achieve the result she wanted, an ultra-gourmand creation that makes your mouth water.
IMAGE: Huda Beauty.
OC: The initial idea I submitted was to create what I called “a gourmand explosion”, a fragrance inspired by a dessert, built like a pastry with layers of different sweet and tasty notes, such as cacao, rum, cotton candy and vanilla.
“Our internal code name for this project was ‘Yum’ and when Mona read it on our sample, she felt like it was the perfect name.”
SC: Then Mona talked about her love for pistachio gelato and I had this idea to turn my father’s initial formula into a sweet pistachio ice-cream by adding, of course, a pistachio accord but also more milky notes. Our internal code name for this project was “Yum” and when Mona read it on our laboratory sample, she felt like it was the perfect name to describe this fragrance.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
SC: We started with an aroma formula to translate the pistachio as close as possible to the edible version with its mouthwatering dimension. We combined the STT (Smell the Taste) pistachio with milky notes to reinforce the creaminess, the lightness and obtain the “pistachio gelato” effect.
There is indeed a feeling of a fluffy creaminess, very enveloping, which is the result of the association of the main three unique ingredients: a cotton candy accord, a Marshmallow STT and a Chantilly STT.
STT means “Smell the Taste”, a technique drawn by the expertise of Firmenich flavorists for perfumers and their creations to express tastes into fragrances.
The Marshmallow STT is a gourmand, creamy and slightly powdery note, while the Chantilly STT offers a light and fresh note of fluffy whipped cream. To boost its daring and liquorous effect, we blended it with rum for its fruity, oak woods undertones and Bourbon vanilla accents. This charismatic addiction is an original creation with a strong gourmand and sensual signature.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
OC: Of course! I’m lucky to live in Paris where I can enjoy the finest pastry. To be entirely honest, part of this fragrance was fed by the magnificent pastry “trompe l’oeil” of the chef Cédric Grolet, which created a pistachio cake, very sophisticated and texturized, that Sébastien and I discovered during afternoon tea-time at Le Meurice [the hotel where Grolet is the executive pastry chef].
IMAGE: Firmenich.
The last time I chatted with Frank Voelkl, I instinctively knew he would enlighten me about the importance of synthetics in modern perfumery. So I turned once again to the New York-based perfumer to find out more about the intriguing (and often secretive) world of captive molecules.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
Who created the decade-defining Le Labo Santal 33 EDP (2011) and helped kick-start the Ariana Grande fragrance empire with Ari EDP (2015)? That would be the German-born perfumer. He’s also the creator of the fragrances below, among others:
+ Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
+ Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
+ Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
+ Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
+ Ermenegildo Zegna Florentine Iris EDP (2012)
+ Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
+ Gucci Bamboo EDP (2015)
+ Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
+ Glossier You EDP (2017, in collaboration with Dora Baghriche)
+ Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
+ Kilian Roses On Ice EDP (2020)
+ Boy Smells Marble Fruit Cologne de Parfum (2021, in collaboration with Hamid Kashani )
+ Aedes de Venustas 16a Orchard EDP (2021)
+ Abercrombie & Fitch Authentic Self Man EDT (2023)
+ Ellis Brooklyn Florist EDP (2023)
Before we get to the actual interview, some general background info on the workings of perfumery: The fragrance (and flavour) industry is dominated by several multinationals: Firmenich (Switzerland), Givaudan (Switzerland), International Flavors & Fragrances (America), Symrise (Germany), Takasago (Japan), Mane (France) and Robertet (France).
These corporates have a vast array of ingredients (naturals, synthetics and increasingly biotechnology) to be used by their perfumers.
IMAGE: Ariana Grande Fragrances.
I like to wear different fragrances for different moments and occasions. For example, I wear Le Labo Santal 33 when I go out because it’s rich, warm, has a lot of signature and it’s my way of making a statement.
When I am on vacation, I wear Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Profumo. There is a nice balance of freshness and woody elegance, but it still feels casual.
When I travel and board a plane, I wear Hermès Terre d’Hermès as it has such a nice presence and I will smell myself more than anything or anybody else around me.
It really started for me when I was living in Paris as a teenager in the Eighties. I discovered my passion for fragrance and learned there are actually people who create them called perfumers. That sparked my desire to pursue this career.
IMAGE: Ellis Brooklyn.
I wasn’t aware of that back then, as my focus at the time centred on imprinting any molecules and natural ingredients into my olfactive memory. It was only once I entered a fragrance house (my first employer was Haarmann & Reimer) that I started understanding how powerful captive ingredients can be.
IMAGE: Hugo Boss.
My first real debut in fine fragrance was when I succeeded in creating Tiare de Chantecaille EDP in 1997, which was right around the time when the first niche brands started emerging.
I had the opportunity to meet Sylvie de Chantecaille who was getting ready to create her brand. She was looking for an exotic floral fragrance, got hooked on tiare and the fact that I had a personal connection to this iconic flower from Tahiti (my wife is from there and I go to the island almost every year since I met her 30 years ago), we decided to work on this fragrance together around it.
IMAGE: Chantecaille.
A molecule is considered captive when a fragrance house such as Firmenich discovers a new fragrance ingredient that is only made available to their own perfumer team rather than being sold to a competitive fragrance house. That means it is exclusively used in fragrances from Firmenich, created by Firmenich perfumers.
In addition, when a team of scientists discovers a new molecule, it will protect it with a patent to avoid any other company copying or manufacturing that same ingredient. So it’s a powerful concept, as captive means exclusive.
MUGUET RELEASE: The lily-of-the-valley synthetic Muguissimo. IMAGE: Firmenich.
Eventually, captives will be released, for example, when the patent has expired and so then they can be taken and recreated. We can decide as a company if we want to release some of our captives to others. Some great examples of captives that we have released in the past are [the lily-of-the-valley synthetic] Muguissimo (2022) and [the aquatic synthetic] Cascalone (2020).
AQUA INNOVATION: The synthetic Cascalone. IMAGE: Firmenich.
Captive molecules, as well as captive natural ingredients, have always played an important role in my creations, especially because Firmenich has quite a few captive ingredients available to their perfumers.
They have become more important in recent years as transparency is on the rise and consumers are more interested in the content and the origin of the ingredients used in their products.
Captives can be both. They can be molecules / synthetics, or they can be natural ingredients.
Firmenich has a molecule research centre in Geneva, Switzerland, and a Naturals Centre of Excellence in Grasse, France, which both work on finding the next new captives.
IMAGE: Calvin Klein.
Yes, and the biggest incentive is to have a fragrance creation that nobody outside of Firmenich would be able to recreate. We all know there are some market products out there inspired by previous existing creations, and so using captives allows perfumers to have unique formulas that are not easily copied.
“Using captives allows perfumers to have unique formulas that are not easily copied”
As perfumers, we naturally want to use them in our creations, as it gives us a competitive advantage and edge when we work on projects both for hedonics and for performance.
IMAGE: Ariana Grande Fragrances.
Sorry, I cannot really share all that information, but I can assure you that almost every single one of my creations will likely contain at least one or two captives from Firmenich in the formula.
That said, here are a few recent creations containing captives, but as they are captives I can’t name them all… Ariana Grande Mod Blush EDP (2022) contains Dreamwood. Calvin Klein Eternity for Men Parfum (2022) contains one of our most recent captives. Le Labo Thé Matcha 26 EDP (2021) contains four captives (two naturals, two synthetics).
Cashmeran was indeed originally a captive from IFF, but it has been available for anyone to use for quite some time since 1983. It’s certainly unique in its character and is still trending. It’s not biodegradable, though, so we may see the end of it soon.
Firmenich has its own iconic molecules, such as Muscenone Delta or Helvetolide [both synthetic musks].
ICONIC MOLECULE: The synthetic musk Helvetolide. IMAGE: Firmenich.
Dreamwood is one of the latest Firmenich captive molecules stemming from our biotechnology research, a milestone in our ingredient advancements.
Natural sandalwood oil has become so rare that I got really excited to be able to use a natural sandalwood note like Dreamwood in a sustainable way. I have used it since the moment it was available to us in 2020. I love the incredible creaminess and comfort it adds to my creations. On top of that, it has benefits beyond its scent such as antimicrobial, antioxidant and soothing effects.
IMAGE: Firmenich.
Le Labo Thé Matcha 26 EDP and Santal 33 EDP are available in South Africa from Skin Cosmetics.
2017. Seems like such a long time ago now, doesn’t it? Almost a different world. In fragrance terms, I remember it well for the release of one of my favourite tea scents, Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT. I wasn’t the only one to be taken with it and the EDT turned out to be a big hit for the American beauty brand. So, of course, expectations were high when Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP was released rather quietly in 2022 (it’s only gathering momentum now).
Is it another winner? Several flankers have joined the original so I give my quick thoughts on those too.
Surrounded by women who loved the classics from Lancôme, Caron and Lanvin, Mexico-born Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s childhood memories of perfumes and the many conversations they sparked eventually led him to the renowned perfumery school ISIPCA in Versailles, France.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
An internship with the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena taught him many things, which he still applies to his work today. “He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not,” says the perfumer.
“He taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not”
The 1998 release Clinique Happy EDT (co-created with Jean-Claude Delville) kick-started his fine fragrance career in a major way.
Twenty-five years later, Rodrigo Flores-Roux can count all these creations, among others, as his achievements: Donna Karan Black Cashmere EDP (2002); John Varvatos EDT (2004); Britney Spears Hidden Fantasy EDP (2008); Calvin Klein cK Free For Men EDT (2009); Houbigant Fougère Royale EDT (2010 reformulation); Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture EDP (2010); Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP (2011); Arquiste Anima Dulcis EDP (2012); Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP (2014); Carolina Herrera Herrera Tuberose EDP (2015); Commodity Leather EDP (2017); Estée Lauder Paradise Moon EDP (2021); and Dolce & Gabbana The One Gold For Men EDP Intense (2021).
He’s also created several other EDTs for the Elizabeth Arden Green Tea range, including Summer (2005), Exotic (2009), Yuzu (2014) and Sakura Blossom (2021). So you could say the New York-based senior perfumer and vice-president of fragrance creation at Givaudan is well versed in the style of the brand.
It starts out all fresh and light, with a combo of clary sage, a sea breeze accord (a subtle treatment, for those of who you break out into a sweat at the mere mention of anything aquatic) and Italian mandarin.
The perfumer’s skills are evident as the warmth of the white tea accord comes through (FYI: Camellia sinensis leaf extract, obtained from the leaves of tea, is featured on the ingredients list). Its milkiness is given floral touches of jasmine and rose water (the latter is now increasingly upcycled as an ingredient). The tea effect is enhanced by the herbaceousness of maté absolute. This note can be bitter; here it balances the delicate sweetness. There’s lots of musk (that would be the “trio of tranquillity musks” listed in the official notes) and a hint of vanilla-ish tonka bean in the drydown.
Now’s a good time to mention that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP utilises Givaudan’s patented VivaScentz technology. We all know that fragrance has mood-enhancing qualities and this “innovation” I quote “is a design tool allowing perfumers to create compositions that will enhance well-being, based on the understanding of the link between fragrances and wellbeing”.
I contacted the perfumer to explain the workings of this technology but hadn’t heard from him as deadline loomed (understandably, he’s a busy man. Fortunately, all I really need to know is that Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP delivers all that it promises with consummate ease: refreshment, calmness and relaxation. And who doesn’t need that right now?
CASTING AND CAPTURING SHADOWS: I’m easily distracted, so Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDP is just what I need.
Apart from the white tea accord and musk, none of the notes is particularly prominent, yet they all contribute to the overall effect. As an EDP, it costs a fraction more than the original EDT. It’s not a reinvention of my favourite but has more depth and definition.
This is versatile+, especially in spring and summer, so wear it wherever and whenever you want a sense of upliftment. With its feel-good properties, it’s also the perfect fragrance to wear to bed. (If you don’t already do this, I beseech you do so ASAP!)
All these releases give the winning formula a different spin on the white tea accord theme, with musky aplenty in the drydown.
Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening of this Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Guillaume Flavigny and Caroline Sabas co-creation is a fresh ’n breezy mix of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) accents. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, it’s as good as I remember it when I tried it for the first time in 2017.
The first of two flankers that were released simultaneously. Guillaume Flavigny and Rodrigo Flores-Roux add fresh ’n fruity touches of red currant, pear blossom, rose and peony to the white tea blend, with just the right amount of sweetness.
A richer, warmer, sweeter, almost gourmand-y take on the motif with marked notes of vanilla orchid, gardenia, jasmine and vanilla. A creamy and chic Gil Clavien composition.
Gil Clavien keeps it fresh, warm and inviting with sunny notes of mandarin orange, orange blossom, jasmine and osmanthus.
Transitions from fresh citrus notes of orange, bergamot and neroli to the warmth of ginger and ginger lily blossom. Uplifting spice and all things nice.
Social media isn’t always a reliable gauge of a brand’s increasing popularity / success, but in the case of Stéphane Humbert Lucas, it most certainly is. While the surge might imply an overnight success story, it’s taken 10 years for the Paris-based house to get to where it is today.
I use Stéphane Humbert Lucas Gemstone EDP and Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP to highlight why it should be on your fragrance radar ASAP. And because it’s not just any ol’ brand, I’ll approach these two standouts in a different way too.
Artist, poet, perfumer… Stéphane Humbert Lucas is all these things and more. While studying painting, he came upon his sight-smell synaesthesia (FYI: the neuropsychological trait in which the stimulation of one sense causes the automatic experience of another sense, thanks Encyclopaedia Britannica). His company is best understood as the expression of all his creative impulses and takes in art, music and literature as influences, too.
IMAGE: Stéphane Humbert Lucas.
If you must use that hackneyed phrase, yes. From concept to execution, bottles to juices, Stéphane Humbert Lucas epitomises the spirit of niche. However, I prefer his description: “luxury artistic perfumes”.
Gosh, you are impatient! But I appreciate your enthusiasm in wanting to know more. Gorgeous, aren’t they? And very much part of the brand’s appeal.
This brand debut (2012) from La Collection 777 reflects the perfumer’s love of the Middle East, “the cradle of the universe”, and the spiritual significance of the number seven (peace, perfection, wisdom).
It’s inspired by the holy Black Stone in the Grand Mosque of Mecca, Saudi Arabia, and French artist Pierre Soulages’ use of the colour black and its light-reflecting qualities.
A brief shot of lemon freshness from Sicily and three varieties of cedar give way to something altogether deeper and thoroughly captivating in the form of myrrh tar. The perfumer makes the most of the gum-resin ingredient, an essential element of oriental compositions, with its balsamic and spicy properties. Its warmth is complemented by the smokiness of incense, earthiness of teakwood and delicately sweet vanilla tones of tonka bean in the drydown.
The kind of scent to enhance quiet contemplative moments on your own.
In terms of its scent profile, this 2022 release from La Collection Serpent (the range explores various symbolic interpretations of the snake) couldn’t be more different from Black Gemstone. Where Black Gemstone is deep, mysterious and respectful, Venom Incarnat presents a more playful and hedonistic side to the perfumer’s work.
This olfactory interpretation of a love potion seduces from the start, with its fruity combo of blackberry, strawberry and wild strawberry notes. There’s more gourmandise via caramel and cinnamon. Rose? No, that would be the raspberry note at play.
The drydown brings out the spicy-woody facets of vanilla and patchouli against the backdrop of the sensual muskiness of Russian leather.
I love how it lingers on the skin.
Quite a few actually, but these three (all from La Collection Serpent) are currently my top other picks. Ask me the same question next week and there’s a good chance, I’ll recommend some others.
The first fragrance in the collection strikes a balance between intrigue and understatement. The fruitiness of blackberry meets a complex amber accord in which several notes are given room to breathe.
Want florals? A hint of mandarin orange is followed by a full-on bouquet of the stuff (honeysuckle, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine, magnolia), with leather and musk adding to its sensual glamour.
The warm spice of whisky and cacao is infused with the creaminess of sandalwood. Kashmir wood (aka the synthetic Cashmeran – you can read more about the ingredient and my recommendations here) accentuates the cosy vibe with its customary muskiness, while vanilla-ish benzoin completes the delicious delight.
Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances are available in South Africa from Galeries de Parfums.
Cashmeran fragrances? Cashmere meets meringue? Er, no, but the synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least, and is found in everything from Cacharel LouLou EDP (1987) to Nasomatto Duro Extrait de Parfum (2007).
Discovered by John B Hall (the same International Flavors and Fragrances chemist who gave us Iso E Super) in the 1970s, it’s also known as blonde woods and cashmir wood.
It’s easy to understand its appeal to perfumers. More complex and versatile than most synthetics, it’s known for its cocooning muskiness and warm woodiness. It also has spicy, floral, fruity, powdery, pine-y nuances and is frequently used to build oud accords.
If you want to smell it in its unadulterated form, best get your nose on Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT.
The names of perfumers are included in brackets after the fragrances in this best cashmeran fragrances round-up.
You know the niche cliché – the best perfumers and materials, unlimited creative freedom, quality and craftsmanship, blah-blah – but there’s much truth in it when we’re talking about this exemplary house. As with many fragrances from the company, this 2008 release is an undoubted genre best.
The muskiness of Cashmeran is the star of the show, with all the other notes contributing to its effectiveness. Violet and heliotropin bring on the powderiness, while sandalwood and white musk add smooth creaminess.
If Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur is unrestrained one-night-stand torridness, then Dans Tes Bras is the equivalent of a loving embrace.
A stunning bottle doesn’t necessarily translate into a stunning perfume. No such worries with this 2016 release from the Italian niche brand that’s increasingly impressing us with its highly developed sense of artistry.
At first, this EDP from the Desert Day Collection whispers the freshness of freesia and peony notes. And then the powdery fruitiness of peach makes an appearance. All the while there’s a deep and distinctive sensuality delivered through a blend of Cashmeran, musk, Ambroxan and a touch of Irian oud (sourced from Indonesia).
There’s something quite sombre about it and I keep on coming back for more to try to work it out. But sometimes mystery must be left alone to work its magic.
I love the inspiration behind this 2018 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Imaginative Collection: the smell of the asteroid in The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I love its execution, too.
It opens with the clean aromatics of lavender, cypress and geranium notes. Cashmeran gives it lots of musky woodiness, with sandalwood and cedar adding to the woody profile. Notes of powdery musk and earthy oakmoss in the drydown complete the composition.
Perhaps not as childlike as its inspiration, there’s still something comforting and nostalgic about this scent.
The American leather goods brand scored a big hit with their debut male fragrance in 2017, Coach For Men EDT. The 2018 follow-up, Coach For Men Platinum EDP, kept the good times coming in a richer, more sophisticated style.
The opening is fresh, spicy and aromatic, thanks to a combo of black pepper and juniper berry notes. A sliver of pineapple adds a touch of fruity sweetness. The smooth woodiness of Cashmeran is supported by the aromatics of geranium and sage. The drydown sees the creaminess of vanilla, sandalwood and a leather accord.
It encapsulates everything I enjoy about the brand: crowd-pleasing affordability.
For this 2020 release, the partner to Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 EDT, brand founder and perfumer Geza Schoen wanted to create a summery Mediterranean island fragrance without the aquatic clichés. He succeeds admirably with a scent that’s simple but evocative.
It opens with bright citrus notes of bergamot and orange. Hints of fig and fig leaf add to the sunny ambience. There’s more freshness of the aromatic variety from notes of juniper berry, rosemary and laurel, with the distinctive earthiness of cypress towering above it all.
The drydown displays Cashmeran at its resinous pine-y best, with supporting depth from mastic and labdanum. ISO E Super and Ambroxan also feature in the mix.
With its seductive-sounding name, Petales de Cashmere EDT, I thought the 2016 release from the French niche brand must be a Cashmeran treat. I was wrong. The synthetic is to be found in all its glory in the 2020 release New York 5th Avenue.
Inspired by winter in the city, it opens with a crisp take on bergamot and especially rose. It gets sweeter and warmer with the richness of caramel and the spicy earthiness of cypriol oil. A subtle note of violet adds a touch of powderiness. The drydown of vanilla, musk and guaiac wood is given a silky-smooth finish via Cashmeran.
While undeniably sweet, it’s seriously sophisticated stuff.
An apt name for a fragrance that changes from the light and bright to the sensual and deep.
This 2021 release from the London-based niche brand starts out in fresh and spicy mode with notes of Madagascan pink pepper, cardamom and Italian bergamot. The powder of iris and violet is paired with the white floral intensity of tuberose and the slight saltiness of a note of ambergris.
Cashmeran is at its musky-woody best in the drydown. There’s more sweetness (just enough) from notes of caramel, vanilla and tonka bean. I don’t pick up much of the listed oud note, but that’s just me being fussy.
Named for the Roman god Mercury, it might imply a rapid change in mood from charming to nasty, but this beauty is definitely about the former.
The venerable French house that was founded by Ernest Daltroff in 1904 is experiencing a renaissance under the leadership of investor Ariane de Rothschild and in-house perfumer Jean Jacques.
Originally launched in 1923 and recreated in 2020, it begins with the citric tones of essences of Italian bergamot, sweet orange, Tunisian neroli and Tunisian petitgrain. It’s fresh and slightly green. The quality of the ingredients is evident.
It moves into more heady and honeyed territory with Tunisian orange blossom absolute and narcissus absolute. They are given a delectably creamy infusion with Cashmeran and vanilla, while another popular synthetic Ambroxan ensures it doesn’t collapse into heaviness. Superb stuff!
*These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
**These Cashmeran fragrances available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.
Who hasn’t helped themselves to Molton Brown products when staying at the right kind of hotel? But the British brand doesn’t only just produce top-notch amenity, bath and body products; the Molton Brown fragrances offering is equally impressive.
IMAGE: Molton Brown.
Founded by Caroline Burstein and Michael Collis (pictured, below) in 1971, the company started out as a hair salon on South Molton Street, London, and has come to represent the best of British over the years (all products are made in England).
IMAGE: Molton Brown.
Molton Brown made its scent debut in 1984 with Orange Grove (now known as Orange & Bergamot). In recent years, it has increasingly focused on these releases and offers them in both EDT (the transparent glass bottles) and EDP (the fancier bottles with resin caps) concentrations as part of its broader ranges. A clever way to get us to want even more of their goodies.
The brand’s sophisticated but ultra-wearable fragrances are clearly made with quality ingredients and also score points for their cruelty-free, 100% vegetarian credentials.
I’ve featured a mix of EDT and EDP formats here. While the concentration is obviously one of the main differences between the two, they also have varied note emphases.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
Have you tried any Molton Brown fragrances?
I love fragrances that live up to their names, and this 2015 release does just that with gusto.
The title note is at its warm and spicy best in the intro. It’s contrasted with the freshness of lemon and ginger. There’s more freshness, of the herbal variety, from notes of coriander and basil. The drydown is on the earthy side, with notes of vetiver and oakmoss adding the finishing touches.
If you want a softer take on spice, I recommend Molton Brown Fiery Pink Pepper in either the EDT or EDP formats.
Every brand has their take on oud, so I was expecting Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold to just be another one. I was wrong.
This 2015 release opens with the distinctive warmth of cinnamon leaf oil, without the overdone sweetness. There’s a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. The spicy warmth continues with notes of myrrh and elemi.
Okay, so the headline oud is almost certainly not the real thing (hence the use of the word “accord”), but a quality synthetic version is blended oh so smoothly with honey, tobacco and vetiver to produce an enchanting effect.
I’m nowhere near Tahiti, the inspiration for this 2015 release, but this Jacques Chabert creation provides the exotic escapist goods in abundance.
Zesty ginger takes the lead in the intro, with additional spiciness from notes of cardamom and clove.
Notes of lily and tagetes pick up on the spice of the opening, while tuberose, animalic and creamy, also contributes to the island life ambience. After all that floralcy, the drydown is toned down but still appealing, with clean white musk blended with aromatic cedarwood and milky sandalwood.
This is strong stuff for an EDT, so only a spray or two is required.
This 2015 release will tell you, in no uncertain terms, why I rate Molton Brown fragrances so highly.
The citric freshness of bergamot and grapefruit is given a spicy balsamic twist with elemi in the intro. The rich warmth of tobacco meets the sensual softness of cedarwood and powderiness of orris and violet. It gathers depth in the drydown with the spicy complexity of Peru balsam supported by the earthiness of patchouli.
It’s cosy, distinctive stuff and I love how this EDT contrasts fresh and warm facets with seemingly effortless flair.
This 2017 release was one of the first Molton Brown fragrances I tried. I loved it so much, I had to try more releases from the brand. That’s how good it is.
It opens with a spicy sprinkle of cardamom, while notes of sea fennel and bergamot add to the freshness.
It’s not long before the sea notes come through. Together with the notes of cypress, cedarwood and musk, they create the effect of a salty and aromatic breeze on skin.
Energising and uplifting, it has more than enough character to stand out in the well-worn aquatics genre.
Russian leather is a sub-category of the broader leather fragrance category and takes its inspiration from the birch oil-treated skins that were originally exported from the country until the early 20th century.
While Molton Brown’s 2017 contribution to the genre doesn’t quite scale the heights of the standard-bearer Chanel Cuir de Russie, it’s still darn good stuff and significantly cheaper than the classic from the French brand.
It’s deep and rich from the opening, with notes of black tea and elemi at the fore. That gathers momentum with the green aromatics of pine. When the leather accord comes through, it’s infused with the smokiness of notes of tobacco, birch, vetiver and cade. It’s animalic but very wearable at the same time.
Comforting and enveloping… I can’t think of a better way to conclude a rough week than with this 2020 release.
It opens with the subtle fruity notes of pear and peach. Perfumer Maïa Lernout (who also created the beautiful floral tropicana of Flora Luminare for the company) adroitly builds a milky accord around musk, Ambroxan, vanilla, white cedarwood and tonka bean.
It’s sweet, powdery, nostalgic, sensual and soothing. Just what I need when I’m feeling somewhat frazzled.
This 2021 release is every bit as mysterious as it sounds.
The opening is all about the woody aromatics of cedar, with the leathery spice of saffron in support. There’s spicy earthiness from notes of cypriol and patchouli. Labdanum, an integral part of an amber accord, dominates the drydown with its deep muskiness. Touches of oud (sustainably sourced from Dubai, according to the company website) and vanilla complete the composition with elegant finesse.
It’s seriously good stuff that strikes a deft balance between its Middle Eastern inspiration and accessible Western wearability.
The name of this 2022 release says it all.
There’s lots of juicy fruit in the opening, thanks to notes of litchi and raspberry, with a note of grapefruit balancing all the sweetness. The rhubarb is just how I love it: fruity and spicy.
Notes of peony and rose keep the freshness going, with the subtle rosy spiciness of pink pepper in the background. The drydown belongs to the softness of cedarwood and musk. It’s shot through with the creaminess of vanilla.
It’s one of the best fruity-florals I’ve tried in recent years, and that says something.
The brand’s 2022 release presents a more opulent and oriental take on the queen of florals.
That vibe is evident from the first spray with its intriguing combo of spicy saffron and green cassis. The rose, woody and powdery, is paired with the green aromatics of geranium for extra effect. Patchouli, sustainably sourced from Salawesi island, Indonesia, is known for its earthy spiciness, and gives the composition sensual depth together with musk.
All these Molton Brown fragrances available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.