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Dora Baghriche Interview: “Intuition Is My Most Precious Ally”

Dora Baghriche

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Dora Baghriche may have learned the art of diplomacy since her fragrance debut in 2011, Versace Vanitas EDT. But she remains refreshingly honest about her work as a perfumer. From our communications, I pick up she’s feeling overwhelmed. Perfectly understandable with all the pressures and demands of her profession.

Versace Vanitas EDT

IMAGE: Versace.

She comes across as a sensitive soul. And looking at her body of work so far (a selection below), there’s an impressive variety across several genres:

+ Versace Vanitas EDT (2011)

+ Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011)

+ L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013)

+ Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice EDT (2014)

+ Gloria Vanderbilt Minuit à New York EDP (2015)

+ Juicy Couture I Am Juicy Couture EDP (2015)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris EDP (2016)

+ Glossier You EDP (2017)

+ Chopard Happy Chopard Bigaradia EDP (2018)

+ Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Rose & Rose EDP (2019)

+ Lionel Richie Hello EDT (2019)

+ Ariana Grande R.E.M. EDP (2020)

+ Kenzo Flower Poppy Bouquet EDP (2020)

+ Armani Privé Gardénia Antigua EDT (2020)

+ Carolina Herrera 212 Heroes Forever Young EDP (2022)

+ Paco Rabanne Fame EDP (2022)

+ Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP (2023)

+ Coty Infiniment Or de Moi Parfum (2024)

Dora Baghriche - Chopard Happy Chopard Bigardia EDP

Initially, Dora Baghriche had her eye on a career in journalism but even as a perfumer, she manages to bring elements of that into her work. “Journalism was a way to fulfil an endless curiosity and appetite for people, history and stories, for nature too. I am adding my imagination to the reality I see,” she says.

Dora Baghriche

IMAGES OF DORA BAGHRICHE: dsm-firmenich.

Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. What does that mean for your career?

Thank you! It always feels good when your work and commitment are recognised by your company. It’s an important step in a career.

Journalism was your first career choice before you enrolled at ISIPCA. Are you able to apply any journalistic principles to your work as a perfumer?

Yes, I wanted to be a reporter, to travel and witness the world. I have such an endless admiration for these men and women who courageously try to inform us about conflicts, major events, good or bad. I wanted to be a voice and an eye for what and who is invisible, or far, or ignored. This comes from my thirst for justice and freedom since my youngest age.

Glossier You EDP

IMAGE: Glossier.

Journalism was also a way to fulfil an endless curiosity and appetite for people, history and stories, for nature too. Creating fragrances allows me to express these values in a different form. I am adding my imagination to the reality I see…

Dora Baghriche - Kenzo Flower Poppy Bouquet EDP Florale

How do you remember your fine fragrance debut?

My debut in perfumery is a good memory, even though it was all about fighting to prove myself and to exist among the established perfumers. Being a young perfumer requires energy, resilience, patience and fearlessness.

I had all these qualities, but I was also too direct, with no filter. I have learned a bit of useful diplomacy.

“My debut is a good memory, even though it was all about fighting to prove myself and to exist among the established perfumers.” – Dora Baghriche

Cacharel Anais Anais Mon Premiere Delice EDT

IMAGE: Cacharel.

Do you approach perfumery as a technical or intuitive endeavour?

I work with my intuition – it is my most precious ally. Technique comes afterwards to make this intuition something “presentable”.

Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP (2011) is an early creation of yours. In what way does it represent you as a perfumer?

Still Life is a creation around yuzu and pepper – among my favourite tastes and sensations. These ingredients are the symbol of high energy, that’s probably why they are often the stars of festive cocktails. I still love Still Life. This fragrance is like an endless party.

Olfactive Studio Still Life EDP

IMAGE: Olfactive Studio.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP (2013) is a different type of fig fragrance. How did you approach its creation?

It’s my vision of the sweet breath of the south of the Mediterranean. It’s about sage. Sage also means “savage”, the same root. And for me, the region of Provence means the wild, the freedom and also the softness. This sage is full of softness, surrounded by jasmine marmalade and fig.

Dora Baghriche - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

You’re part of the team behind Paco Rabanne Fame. These high-profile projects must come with a lot of pressure. How do you deal with those stresses?

Indeed, pressure is part of my world. Winning a big project is always a race you need to be well prepared for – it is psychologically and physically overwhelming. Dealing with competition, with doubts, with others’ tastes and personalities, even within your own team, the stress can be high.

“It’s important to stay open to others. Then creation can find peace again.” – Dora Baghriche

But I’ve learned to domesticate pressure. And when it’s becoming too hard to take a step back. It’s important to stay positive, open to others, rely on the people you trust. Then anything can be smoother, and creation can find peace again.

Dora Baghriche - Paco Rabanne Fame Parfum

You’ve created several fragrances for Chopard. Has this entailed meeting the brand’s artistic director, Caroline Scheufele?

I work a lot with Chopard and I love this house. I met Caroline Scheufele a few years ago and had both a personal and artistic crush for her and for her work. She is audacious, sensitive, a beautiful soul. She loves perfumes among other arts.

Caroline Scheufele

IMAGE: Chopard.

We shared how we could bring her perfume collection to the next level and to create fragrances that are the most faithful to the spirit of the house: quality, creativity and a bit of the unexpected.

Dora Baghriche - Chopard Iris Malika EDP

Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP is a 2023 co-creation of yours with Daphné Bugey. Musk is an integral part of the brand’s fragrance identity. What kind of musk/s did you use in its creation?

All of Me is the encounter of geranium and an incredible heart of musk. We worked with the latest generation of musks offered by dsm-firmenich’s palette. Our company is called “the house of musks”. We are pioneers in the research for new musks with different tonalities, different facets.

Dora Baghriche - Narciso Rodriguez All of Me EDP

For All of Me, we worked with six different musks – all 100% biodegradable and with interesting and complementary facets. While Muscone and Muscenone are dirty and wild, Helvetolide brings a clean, soft facet, for example. That’s why the result of this musky signature is not flat, but multi-dimensional, like Mr Narciso Rodriguez’s vision of women.

“While Muscone and Muscenone are dirty and wild, Helvetolide brings a clean, soft facet.” – Dora Baghriche

When you’re not working, what would we find you doing?

When I’m not working, I do many things. Reading first. I am what we call a heavy reader – I can read up to three books a week. I used to practise Japanese archery but not anymore, now I am taking piano lessons again because I miss music.

Armani Privé Gardénia Antigua EDT

IMAGE: Giorgio Armani.

What I love the most is to discover new worlds, new fields. I might not have time to become an expert in everything, but I love to dive into a new discipline and understand a little bit of its meaning, its power, its benefits.

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Lionel Paillès – An Interview With The Author Of Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance

Lionel Paillès

I’d been wanting to read another perfume book for a while. Even better, if it’s about a subject I’m more and more interested in – ingredients. And so when a copy of Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance by Lionel Paillès was sent to me, I was chuffed to say the least.

Lionel Paillès

Perfumery is about many things. But fundamentally it’s about the use of ingredients: whether naturals and/or synthetics, increasingly biotechnology.

Starting with the presence of the Swiss flavour and fragrance company dsm-firmenich in Grasse, the book, through meticulous research and brilliant photography, presents a picture of a firm, its perfumers, technicians and suppliers, at the forefront of research and science in the field of ingredients.

Lionel Paillès

Or should that be fields of ingredients? Although technology is central, it all starts with the suppliers and farmers in their fields of roses, lavender, jasmine, tuberose and mimosa in the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse.

While the book is very much about dsm-firmenich, it’s not a glorified sales pitch. Lionel Paillès is too much of a professional perfume writer to put his name on that sort of project.

“While the book is very much about dsm-firmenich, it’s not a glorified sales pitch.”

I had not heard of Lionel Paillès before receiving this book. The perfume critic, journalist and Fragrance Foundation judge is the author of titles such as Chanel: The Art of Creating Fragrance: Flowers of the French Riviera (Abrams, 2016) and Petit Lexique des amateurs épris d’odeurs et de parfums with Jean-Claude Ellena (Actes Sud, 2021).

Lionel Paillès

Some of the things I love about this book (apart from the teeny-weeny font size of captions – perhaps time for new glasses, Richard?):

+ The language of fragrances: an easy-to-understand glossary of terms from “absolute” and “biomass” to “supercritical fluid extraction (SPF)” and “upcycling”.

+ It emphasises the interconnection of science and nature and, in particular, the role of innovation in the process of fragrance creation.

+ While looking at many of the processes behind the scent scenes, it doesn’t lose sight of the alchemy and mystery in perfumery.

Lionel Paillès

Before I get to the interview with Lionel Paillès, some fast facts below for the perfume-geek lurking in all of us:

DID YOU KNOW?

+ Grasse was placed on Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity List in 2018 for its collective perfumery know-how.

+ Principal perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin and master perfumers Alberto Morillas, Nathalie Lorson, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc are among the employees of dsm-firmenich.

+ These perfumers meet three times a year in Grasse at Villa Botanica, where Fabrice Pellegrin, the company’s director of Natural Product Research and Innovation, presents the latest innovations. It is these perfumers who approve each line of development one by one, after smelling, evaluating and comparing them to other ingredients on the market.

+ The centifolia rose is harvested by hand only, flower by flower, over a period of three to four weeks in the middle of the month of May. That’s why it is also known as the “May rose”.

Lionel Paillès

+ True lavender lends itself better to luxury perfume formulas. However, lavandin yields three times more essential oil than true lavender, which makes it particularly sought-after for “functional perfumery” (washing powder and liquid, soap, shower gel, shampoo).

+ A good jasmine picker harvests 600g to 800g of flowers per hour, which amounts to 6kg to 7kg of flowers in a day’s work.

+ Originally from Australia, mimosa (part of the acacia family), with its small, downy yellow flowers, was introduced to the south of France in the 19th century.

Source: Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance by Lionel Paillès.

Lionel Paillès

Tell me about your background and how you got into writing about perfumes.

I met Jean-Claude Ellena in 2010 during an article I wrote for L’Officiel Voyage magazine. I knew nothing about perfume, but his speech immediately fascinated me.  I decided to stop everything and train myself: learning raw materials and classic accords at the Cinquième Sens school, then with different perfumers (notably Jean-Christophe Hérault, picture below).   

Jean-Christophe Hérault

How long was this book in the making?

I wrote it between summer 2022 and summer 2023. We did six reports in Grasse in different seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Who initiated the project?

I knew the perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin (picture below), who became a friend, well. Ten years ago, he introduced me to dsm-firmenich’s extraordinary facilities in Grasse.  When he spoke to me in 2021 about the Villa Botanica project, I suggested that we take the opportunity to imagine a book around Grasse perfume plants and their transformation. A work which is aimed at both the general public and professionals in the perfume industry.

Fabrice Pellegrin

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

What do you want people to understand from reading the book?

A beautiful perfume plant is not an end in itself and that it is its transformation that gives it all its value. The art of the perfumer would be nothing without the science necessary to transform the plant into an ingredient.

“A beautiful perfume plant is not an end in itself. Its transformation gives it all its value.” – Lionel Paillès

Lionel Paillès

How would you rate your knowledge of perfume ingredients before writing the book?

I had bookish knowledge and I had participated in a rose harvest in Grasse. That is just about everything.  I learned everything by going to Grasse to the dsm-firmenich factories and meeting the passionate farmers who are partners of the Swiss company.

What stood out for you as the project progressed?

I discovered that the entire Grasse region lived to the rhythm of the same passion: that of perfume. I also understood how the time of perfume was an eminently long time.  If consumers knew how long it takes to mature a beautiful jasmine, transform it into an extract and make it the beating heart of a perfume, they would better understand the price of perfume.

Lionel Paillès

The book talks a lot about Grasse, the traditional heart of French perfumery. Is it possible for the region to regain its former glory?

Since the big brands (Louis Vuitton, Dior) moved there, signing partnership contracts with flower producers, Grasse has regained its aura. The know-how of Grasse has been classified as a Unesco Intangible Heritage: the cultivation of perfume plants, the transformation and creation of perfume. Nowhere else in the world is so much know-how concentrated in one place.

“Nowhere else in the world is so much know-how concentrated in one place.” – Lionel Paillès

The book features a cast of suppliers, farmers, technicians and perfumers. Did you get to meet all of them?

Yes, I had the chance to meet all the partners of dsm-firmenich. Those who produce the rose; those who produce jasmine (Alexandra Richard impressed me with her determination and passion), mimosa, violet or tuberose.

The Villa Botanica is a symbol of dsm-firmenich’s position in Grasse. What role does this house play in raising consumer awareness of the role of science in perfumery?

It is both a place of creation, where perfumers extract themselves from their daily life, and a place of education, where brands come to discover perfume plants and the know-how of extraction developed over decades by dsm-firmenich.

Lionel Paillès

Biotechnology increasingly appears to be the future of perfume ingredients. The Firgood process is particularly fascinating. What can you tell me about it?

This is a process that uses microwaves, like the oven in your kitchen. By heating the plant in an oven, the molecules heat up by rubbing together and release their olfactory particles.  All perfume houses are looking for extraction methods that do not use petrochemical solvents and which consume little energy and water. The Firgood addresses these two issues. In addition, it makes it possible to extract so-called “dumb” flowers, the natural extract of which did not exist until now.

Lionel Paillès

Why is there such a push for natural ingredients now?

Naturalness is a consumer requirement that has existed for around 10 years but has increased with Covid. I really like natural extracts: they bring richness and complexity to the perfume. They also allow us to tell beautiful stories of women and men: the farmers who have been cultivating these plants for decades and sometimes generations.

“Natural extracts allow us to tell stories of the farmers who have been cultivating these plants for decades.” – Lionel Paillès

Lionel Paillès

And what about synthetics?

The synthetic molecule is essential to perfume. It allows the perfume to stick to the skin and make it last long throughout the day.

The superb photography by Philippe Frisée in this book deserves a mention. How did you work with him?

We were in Grasse together on all the reports. Philippe did not have any specific knowledge of plants. It comes from fashion and brings a new and non-cliché look at the perfume plant.

Philippe Frisée

The idea was to work like I work in the press when I go reporting: by joining our eyes and discovering things together.

*Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance (Gallimard) by Lionel Paillès is available from selected bookstores.  

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Frédéric Malle: A Pictorial Celebration

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie EDP

This year’s biggest news in perfume-land? No, not the continued obsession with vanilla. It can only be the formal announcement that Frédéric Malle will be stepping away from the brand he founded in 2000, at the end of June 2024.

Frederic Malle Outrageous EDP

Let’s put aside all the teeth-gnashing at what this means for the future of the company and the significance that he’s finally stepping away 10 years after selling to The Estée Lauder Companies in 2014.

Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur EDP

And let’s focus on Frédéric Malle’s immense contribution to the industry.

Frederic Malle Rose & Cuir EDP

How about a bit of perfume humour to soften the blow: what do new niche brands want to be when they grow up? Frédéric Malle, of course.

Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle EDP

Seriously, though, few perfume companies have the pedigree of the maison founded 24 years ago by the worldly Parisian.

Frederic Malle Cologne Indelebile

Some background on the man himself. He grew up surrounded by luxury and elegance. His grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Parfums Christian Dior and his mother was artistic director of the same company.

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese EDP

After working for Laboratoires Roure, where his appreciation of the finest ingredients and the process of creation were honed, the art history graduate put his knowledge to great use when he launched his own eponymous brand in 2000.

Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver

If I’m being correct and super French, it’s Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, because he compared himself to an editor / publisher in the way he worked with his chosen perfumers.

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre EDP

It’s become a niche cliché – the best perfumers and materials, unlimited creative freedom, quality and craftsmanship over crass commercialism – but that’s because there’s much truth in it when we’re talking about this house.

Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras EDP

From the launch collection and beyond, numerous releases have gone onto become modern classics and genre bests, always with the creativity of his collaborators in the spotlight.

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower EDP

Let’s not forget what was a novel idea – for the perfumer’s name to be featured on the bottle – is an industry aspiration now.

Frederic Malle French Lover EDP

I was going to do an overview of the perfumes featured here but realised this selection in pics says it all. Searching for all these fragrances also turned out to be a nostalgia-fest for yours truly as I rediscovered earlier pics of mine. So I can say with confidence and much affection that Frédéric Malle is an integral part of my fragrance world.

Frederic Malle Music For A While EDP

Any exclusions and there are several – Lipstick Rose EDP (2000), Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP (2002), Carnal Flower EDP (2005), Geranium Pour Monsieur ED (2009) , Portrait of a Lady (2010), among others – are not deliberate. Just that there are so many superb Frédéric Malles.

Frederic Malle Dans Mon Lit

Frédéric Malle is available in South Africa from Skins.

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Amandine Clerc-Marie Interview: “Crafting Fragrances Is Neither A Lonely Art, Nor A Straight Line”

Amandine Clerc-Marie

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

When I received news earlier this year that Amandine Clerc-Marie had been promoted to principal perfumer at dsm-firmenich, I wasn’t surprised.

The perfumer has created a steady and substantial body of work since her debut in 2003, with creations that include:

+ Kenneth Cole Black EDP (2004)

+ Jovoy Chypre EDP (2007)

+ Chloé EDP (2008)

+ MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP (2008)

+ Jaguar Vision EDT (2010)

+ Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud EDP (2011)

+ Atkinsons Oud Save The King EDP (2013)

+ Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014)

+ Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP (2015)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP (2015)

+ Sisley Izia EDP (2017)

+ Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP (2018)

+ Davidoff Cool Water Intense For Her EDP (2019)

+ Escada Candy Love EDT (2020)

+ Valentino Voce Viva EDP (2020)

+ Estée Lauder Sensuous Stars EDP (2021)

+ Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP (2022)

+ Burberry Goddess EDP (2023)

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chloe EDP

From earlier wins such as Lui Rochas EDT and Chloé EDP to huge hits such as Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Amandine Clerc-Marie has made her mark with her customary attention to quality and the all-important hook.

Lancome La Nuit Tresor EDP

IMAGE: Lancôme

While her finesse with the queen of florals is clear in several creations, I noticed as I was putting this story together, Amandine Clerc-Marie is the queen herself when it comes to vanilla. The ingredient pops up in everything from Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Mugler Aura EDP and Escada Candy Love EDT to Valentino Voce Viva EDP and Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP.

Amandine Clerc-Marie

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. For those who aren’t in the industry, what does a principal perfumer do?

I create a lot of fragrances for many fine fragrance brands. I meet artists, be they designers or creative directors; I spend time with clients to understand what they’re after.

“A perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

I also like to spend time with our trainee perfumers as I value the high importance of transmission in our profession. I take part in evaluation sessions during which new qualities or even new ingredients are presented to me. I come up with new combinations. You know, a perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!

MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP

IMAGE: MDCI Parfums.

Where did perfumery start for you?

Ever since I was a child, I’ve had a passion for perfume. My mother worked for a perfume house. Creating perfume seems to be part of my DNA.

My earliest olfactive memories are of my grandfather’s home in Normandy, France, where I wandered freely, discovering the natural world around me. I can still close my eyes and remember the pungent odours of grass and crumpled leaves bordering the garden pond with its wet, humid air – fresh, green and aromatic. I also recall the smell of ripe apples which my grandfather made into his own cider, a scent and taste I still love today.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chloe EDP

My own career came about quite naturally. During my apprenticeship, while learning about raw materials, my sense of smell suddenly came to life. At the end of my studies at ISIPCA, I wrote a thesis on modernising the leather note in Hermès Bel Ami EDT and it was at this point that I met Michel Almairac, with whom I worked for more than 10 years at Robertet.

Michel Almairac

IMAGE: Robertet

Working with Michel Almairac after completing your studies at ISIPCA must have been a formative experience for you. What do you value most about your time spent with him?

Michel Almairac taught me to work on short formulations, with only raw materials essential in my formula. No superfluous ingredients were allowed. Just like him, I still overdose one or two notes at the beginning of the composition, keeping his practice of starting with something a little bit crazy to affirm a strong stance. But I learned to balance his overdose faster than what I used to.

“He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision. He taught me everything with kindness and patience, but still with demand.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP

What was your fine fragrance debut? And how did your career progress from there?

My very first win was a woody-chypre fragrance called Lui Rochas, with Michel, in 2003. The big turning point was then in 2008 with the creation with Michel Almairac of Chloé EDP that instantly became a classic.

Then in 2011, I joined dsm-firmenich and had the opportunity to start working with masters, such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc, who have been great partners and mentors for me here.

Lui Rochas EDT

IMAGE: Rochas.

What advice would you give to young perfumers just starting their careers?

I would tell them to demand the best of themselves, stay determined, be diligent and always remain optimistic.

You’ve created several rose-focused fragrances. For example, Chloé EDP (2008), Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014) and Sisley Izia EDP (2017). Is this an ingredient you particularly enjoy working with?

Rose is the most fascinating ingredient. Even though she is considered the “queen of perfumery”, it’s true that only the rose can offer such a multi-faceted experience with so many varieties.

Perfumers have never ceased to explore roses and I doubt that will ever stop. Roses have all the qualities that can be expected in a perfume and are themselves one of the most complex perfumes.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chopard Rose Malaki EDP

Your 2017 co-creation Mugler Aura EDP pushed the boundaries for a designer fragrance and I would imagine it took some time to reach the final version. Was this project more complicated than others?

Indeed, it’s been one of the most complicated creations that I have worked on. We wanted it to be innovative and unique and also extremely powerful.

It was also a huge challenge for our group of perfumers (Daphné Bugey, Christophe Raynaud, Marie Salamagne and Olivier Cresp) to come up with a new proposition after the mythical Angel – a personal favourite – and the blockbuster Alien. It’s in Mugler’s DNA to challenge the world of perfumery with every new creation, which puts a bit of pressure on you!

Mugler Aura EDP

IMAGE: Mugler.

Burberry Goddess (2023) is a recent success of yours. You used the FirGood technology in its creation. It sounds very technical. Could you simplify it for us?

For Goddess, I used three distinct types of vanilla extraction. The first is a Vanilla infusion, which provides the brightest woody-vanilla possible, then I used FirGood Vanilla for the first time in a fragrance: this innovative technology enables us to extract vanilla without any solvent, obtaining a sweet, rich and animalic vanilla. Lastly, with an absolute, which is darker and richer, gave the fragrance a mysterious, milky aspect.

“Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

Exploring vanilla was a very inspiring playground. What really interested me about this project was discovering its new facets. Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery. Bringing a totally new vision of vanilla to Burberry was my day-to-day challenge, and I loved it!

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Burberry Goddess EDP

I have created the most powerful vanilla overdose on the market. It’s totally new and with a new vanilla extract, dsm-firmenich’s proprietary vanilla FirGood, that makes this creation so unique.

There’s no doubting your technical and creative skills. What other quality do you bring to projects that makes them such a success?

Being a visual person, I start the creation process with raw materials and the desire to pass on a strong olfactory message.

I begin with one or two raw materials to create a specific accord, which should be strong enough to be reworked for months and which will serve as my North Star and the signature of the fragrance. Once I have the initial accord, I surround it with other notes to present different samples to the brand, each representing a strong perspective. Finally, I tweak once more, depending on the brand’s feedback, to craft the finished scent.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Carolina Herrera Stallion Leather EDP

Creating fragrances is similar to sculpting. We mould the invisible, working on volumes of specific scents to adjust the overall performance of notes.

It’s important to know that crafting fragrances is neither a lonely art, nor a straight line. We really count on the advice and help of our laboratory team, and often execute many rounds of iterations that push our creative boundaries.

Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP and Burberry Goddess EDP are available in South Africa from selected Edgars stores nationwide. 

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Bulgari Man In Black Parfum Review

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

It’s been 10 years since Bulgari Man in Black EDP became a huge hit for the Italian luxury jewellery brand. Even inveterate niche snobs succumbed to its undeniable allure. Will the recently launched Bulgari Man in Black Parfum be equally popular?

Bulgari Man in Black EDP

PERFUMER

Alberto Morillas is no stranger to the Bulgari Man franchise. In fact, since its inception in 2010, he has created all the fragrances in the range. So no surprise to see the maestro behind Bulgari Man in Black Parfum.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for dsm-firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum - Alberto Morillas

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

If you want to know why Alberto Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT (1996), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Amouage Journey Man EDP (2014), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

Kenzo Flower Eau de Vie EDP

SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

It’s spice and all things very nice with a combo of cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper in the opening. Sometimes it’s more peppery on my skin, which could be the elemi* at work.

It goes in a floral direction with tuberose (always welcome in male fragrances), building on the warmth of the opening. The white floral has a reputation for being animalic, but the perfumer focuses on its creaminess instead, with powdery iris in the background.

With the perfume’s name, it’s welcome to the darker side in the drydown, but in an accessible way. There’s rich earthiness from patchouli and cypriol, while benzoin gives it an element of soft vanilla-ish sweetness.

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

Is that you I hear wanting to know about the rum booziness that was such an integral part of the original’s appeal? It’s one of the first things I looked out for when I started wearing Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s not featured in this one. But there’s more than enough to compensate for its absence.

The various elements come together to produce a fragrance that while smooth and sophisticated presents plenty of depth and character. I expect quality from Bulgari and the brand doesn’t disappoint with this latest addition to one of the more dependable designer franchises.

*As Alberto Morillas works for dsm-firmenich, it’s also good to see this parfum reflecting the company’s increasing commitment to responsibly sourced ingredients. For example, the elemi from the Philippines (the resin is hand harvested by farmers from July to March) comes from an established partnership that includes a digital system, Path2Farm, guaranteeing the traceability of the raw material from farm to final product.

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

THE PARFUM FACTOR

What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the deluge of parfums on the market, especially from big designer brands.

As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and extrait de parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.

If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about parfums, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.

If an eau fraiche (anything from 1 – 3%) and eau de cologne (2 – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then a parfum is the highest (20 to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.

Hermes Terre d'Hermes Parfum

EARTHLY ELEGANCE: Launched in 2009 and created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Terre d’Hermès Parfum is one of the best parfums, designer or otherwise.

To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. We’re looking at you Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Le Parfum EDP Intense and others like it.

The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s a parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.

Cartier Declaration Parfum

LEATHER REPORT: Released in 2018, way before the current invasion, Cartier Déclaration Parfum is another fine example of the genre.

Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s a parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?

Which brings me back to Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s a parfum in terms of the concentration of ingredients, BUT it’s not dreaded beast-mode stuff. This is all good for me. I’ll certainly add it to the list of designer (and other) parfums I hold in high regard.

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

OTHER FRAGRANCES IN THE BULGARI MAN RANGE

With his credentials, Alberto Morillas is one of the few perfumers to create the original and all subsequent flankers in ranges such as Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, Gucci Bloom and Bvlgari Man. Perhaps it’s part of the contract when he wins yet another brief. 

Those marked with ** have been discontinued but are well worth seeking out. However, don’t pay crazy money for them just because I recommend them.

BULGARI MAN EDT** (2010)

The line makes its debut and sets the tone for future versions with its chic feel. Includes standout notes of violet leaf, bergamot, vetiver, Cashmeran and honey.

BULGARI MAN IN BLACK EDP (2014)

One of the best iterations, it opens with an irresistible trio of spice, rum and tobacco notes. They’re perfectly blended and balanced.

The sensual mood continues with smooth leather and a hint of powdery iris. The tonka bean, guaiac wood and benzoin notes in the drydown have a sophisticated vanilla-ish facet.

A snug treat.

Bulgari Man in Black EDP

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)

Lots of spice, leather and oud + a bit of rum booziness and florals (tuberose, rose) = oriental with major sex appeal.

BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)

Rum meets the freshness and greenery of citrus, then deftly contrasted with the sunny white florals of tuberose and orange blossom. An amber accord, benzoin and sandalwood up the creamy warmth.

BULGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (2018)

After all that rum booziness, the range takes a more sober direction with a trio of woodiness – cypress, cedar, vetiver – supported by the fresh spiciness of lemon and coriander.

The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Signature scent material, if that’s your thing.

Bulgari Man Wood Essence EDP

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (2019)

A citrusy spin on its predecessor. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedarwood and cypriol oil.

There’s a big dose of Ambrox in this creation, which, depending on your view on this synthetic form of ambergris, will be good or bad news. It’s enhanced by a white musk note.

Not the most exciting fragrance, but it will make you feel good.

BULGARI MAN GLACIAL ESSENCE EDP (2020)

No prizes for guessing that with a name like Glacial Essence, this is a freshie.

Juniper berries, cool and aromatic, stand out in the opening. There’s a hint of spicy ginger in the background. A note of Australian sandalwood brings creamy smoothness to the composition, while orris root does its powdery thing.

And now for some science (which perfumery is often about). Clearwood features in the drydown. This synthetic molecule from dsm-firmenich is a softer and airier version of patchouli and completes the scent in a clean and modern way.

Bulgari Man Glacial Essence EDP

BULGARI MAN TERRAE ESSENCE EDP (2021)

Zesty citron leads the way to vetiver and orris concrete, their woodiness complemented by just the right amount of sensual smokiness and spiciness via resinous styrax.

Seemingly straightforward stuff, but compelling nevertheless in a dry style.

Bulgari Man Terrae Essence EDP

BULGARI MAN RAIN ESSENCE EDP (2023)

The opening is slightly citric (orange) and somewhat green and herbal (green tea). The latter features often in Bulgari fragrances, which should come as no surprise – the brand has the distinction of launching the first tea scent in 1992 (the Jean-Claude Ellena creation Bulgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert EDC). The white lotus accord contributes a floral and aquatic aspect, without going overboard on the waterworks.

Alberto Morillas is known for his love of and expertise with musks and while there’s plenty of that powderiness here, it’s not overpowering.

The warm amber accord in the drydown is joined by the musky-spicy tones of guaiac wood.

If I’m being fussy and literal, it doesn’t necessarily make me think of rain when I wear it. But it certainly has the rejuvenating qualities of that element, so mission accomplished.

Bulgari Man Rain Essence EDP

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5 REASONS TO LOVE DOLLY PARTON*

Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

1) From her dirt-poor Tennessee background (one of 12 children) to 100 million+ records sold, she’s a pop culture institution.

2) Don’t be fooled by the larger-than-life persona, she’s a smart businesswoman with an estimated worth of $650 million. Apart from the rights to her songs, she’s the force behind Dollywood theme and water parks, diners, merchandise, books and more.

Dollywood Entrance

IMAGE: Maverick Family Life blog.

3) She can laugh at herself while laughing all the way to the bank, with memorable quotes such as:

“If I hadn’t been a woman, I’d have been a drag queen”,

“The higher your hair, the closer you are to God”,

“It costs a lot to look this cheap”, and

“I’m not offended by all the dumb blonde jokes because I know I’m not dumb… and I know I’m not blonde.”

Dolly Parton Cookbook

IMAGE: shop.dollyparton.com

4) Despite the increasingly rabid polarisation of American politics, she’s remained resolutely apolitical, which only increases her broad appeal.

5) Proving there’s still life in the genre, she joined the celeb fragrance game in 2021 with Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP.

Dolly Parton

IMAGE: dollyfragrance.com

As with many in the category, it’s sweet, but Dolly’s undeniable charm must be working on me (it always does). Its fruity-floral aspect (peony, pear, blackcurrant, jasmine) meets the woody depths of sandalwood, patchouli and fir album, underscored by powdery musk, hits the D-spot with its uplifting quality.

Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

In my recent interview with perfumer Gabriela Chelariu, she had this to say about working with the superstar on Dolly Scent From Above EDP.

“Dolly Parton is one of the most gracious people I have worked with. Although I’ve never met her in person, she was deeply involved in developing the fragrance and was precise in what she wanted it to be.

“I refined it until she found the signature she envisioned. I remember every time she wanted another adjustment, she always apologised thinking that she is too demanding. She is very considerate and has a lot of respect for the creative process, being a creative force herself.”

Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

*This isn’t no April Fool’s joke, y’all.

Dolly Scent From Above EDP is available from Scent Beauty. 

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Cedar Fragrances: Fresh To Surprisingly Sensual

Cedar - Byredo Super Cedar EDP

One of the main woods in perfumery, cedar has a special place in my heart for its versatility and integral role in building impactful woody accords.

Part of the conifer family, the main varieties include Atlas (from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco), Lebanon (the tree is represented on the country’s flag) and Himalayan.

Lebanon Flag

IMAGE: Freepik.

Did you know the commonly used Virginia is not a true cedar and is actually from the juniper family? Now, you do.

There are also several synthetic cedars, including cedryl acetate, Cedrol, Vertofix and Cedramber.

So how does cedar smell, apart from, um, woody? That would depend on the variety and the combo of materials used by the perfumer, of course. But in general, it ranges from the fresh and resinous to earthy and pencil shaving-like (the wood is used to make pencils) and even leathery. It’s also more sensual than you might realise.

Cedar - Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

SERGE LUTENS FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS EDP (CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE & PIERRE BOURDON)

Always a good place to start with an innovative classic in the genre. And this 1992 release from the French niche house (originally created for the Japanese beauty brand Shiseido) sets the bar very high too. At the time, cedar was seen as a masculine note and perfumers Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon took it in a more feminine direction (hence the fragrance’s name).

Taking its inspiration from the honeyed smells emanating from leather stalls in Morocco, it surrounds deep Atlas cedar with fruity (plum, peach), spicy (cinnamon, cloves), floral (orange blossom, violet) and creamy (sandalwood, benzoin) accents.

The result? An incredibly sensual experience which, more than 30 years later, even though reformulated, has lost none of its revolutionary beauty. And for the record, it’s perfectly unisex, in case you’re freaked out about the “féminité” bit.

Cedar - Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois EDP

IMAGE: Serge Lutens.

ORMONDE JAYNE ISFARKAND EDP (GEZA SCHOEN)

When I interviewed Ormonde Jayne founder Linda Pilkington, she spoke about the origins of this 2005 release.

“One of our best-selling perfumes, a short formula, and originally made for my husband when he was 40 years old,” she said. “He got so many compliments on it, I had to bring it into the range.”

Its popularity is easy to understand. The opening is citrus-crisp with notes of lime, bergamot and mandarin orange. Adding to the sharpness, a herbal take on pink pepper makes way for the earthiness of cedar, vetiver and oakmoss in the drydown.

The epitome of elegance.

Cedar - Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand EDP

KILIAN STRAIGHT TO HEAVEN EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

There’s no missing the dark booziness in the opening of this 2007 release from the French niche brand’s The Cellars Collection, thanks to a shot of rum.

It’s quite intense, so give it time to settle with the creaminess of vanilla, the sensual stickiness of dried fruit and the earthiness of nutmeg. The drydown sees the warm spiciness of patchouli contrasted with the freshness of cedar.

It’s not as animalic as the brand makes it out to be, but that doesn’t stop it from being a wonderfully rich treat.

Cedar - Kilian Straight To Heaven EDP

COMME DES GARÇONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE)

If I was in the perfume-naming business, I might call this 2010 release from the Japanese brand “Wonderwoods”, because there’s an assortment of woods going down here, including cedar, sandalwood and guaiac wood.

CDG has never shied away from synthetics and they play their part too in the appeal of this scent, especially Javanol (clean and creamy sandalwood) and Cashmeran, with its musky-woody vibe. They’re infused with the earthy spiciness of black pepper and nutmeg and smokiness of incense.

The brand describes it as “wood gone mad”. I describe it as soothing and distinctive.

Cedar - Comme des Garcons Wonderwood EDP

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS GREEN SAPPHIRE PARFUM**

The British niche company has produced a mind-boggling array of scents (heading for the 200 mark any day now) since its founding in 2008, so sifting the best from the rest is a project in itself. This 2016 release is one of their standouts.

The opening is rich with the rosy fruitiness of raspberry and spicy leatheriness of saffron. There’s an element of freshness from a note of violet leaf too. Pine gives it aromatic appeal and sets it on a forest-y-woody path to the drydown featuring creamy sandalwood, the pencil shaving-like softness of Atlas cedar and oriental warmth of Dehnal oud (this variety of the precious ingredient is known for its quality). It’s not officially listed but there’s certainly the synthetic Cashmeran, with its woody muskiness, in the mix.

You’ll get compliments, people will want to be your best friend when you wear this stuff. Not that I wear fragrances for those reasons, but it is that good.

Cedar - Boadicea The Victorious Green Sapphire Parfum

BYREDO SUPER CEDAR EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Super indeed. As in ISO E Super. Discovered by John B Hall and James M Sanders in 1973, the synthetic is known for its silky cedar-ish properties. Perfumer Geza Schoen created a major sensation when he showcased it on its own, as a scent in itself, in Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 EDT (2006).

In the 2016 release from the Swedish niche brand, it gives the combo of rose, Virginian cedar, vetiver and musk an uplifting spin.

A minimalist composition, yes, but big on the gratification.

Cedar - Byredo Super Cedar EDP

BVLGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

If you’re going to do the signature fragrance thing, this creation from the Italian luxury jewellery brand is the way to go.

After all the boozy rumm-iness of Bvlgari Man in Black EDP (2014), Bvlgari Man Black Orient EDP (2016) and Man Black Cologne EDT (2016), the range took a more sober direction with a focus on natural elements, starting with Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP in 2018.

The aromatics of cypress and smoothness of cedar mingle with the earthiness of vetiver to deliver all the elegant woodiness you could possibly want, with fresh ’n spicy assistance from citrus and coriander. The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Class in glass.

Cedar - Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP

PENHALIGON’S HALFETI CEDAR EDP* (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

The original Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (2015) was a big hit for the British heritage brand with its spice and oud blend. It was followed by Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather EDP in 2020. Who says niche brands don’t do flankers à la designers, I grumbled to myself smugly, as I thought the range would taper off into predictable mediocrity.

Well, I was wrong. Very wrong. The 2020 release Penhaligon’s Halfeti Cedar EDP is the best one yet.

There’s a whole lot of boozy fruitiness going on at first with peach, dried fruit and rum notes at the fore. And then something almost metallic (that must be the mineral accord in the official notes) together with the powderiness of cinnamon. Intriguing… The Atlas cedar is resinous- and balsamic-rich, with vanilla rounding it off with spicy creaminess.

Now, I know why the bottle is so dark…

Cedar - Penhaligon's Halfeti Cedar EDP

CHOPARD CEDAR MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

If you’ve been keeping up with the releases from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, you’ll know they have seriously upped their game in recent years.

A 2023 addition to the Middle Eastern-influenced Malaki range, Chopard Cedar Malaki EDP opens with the aromatics of cardamom, cypress and lavender. There’s a herbal dimension from artemisia, with just the right amount of bitterness. With two types of cedar (Atlas and Lebanon), the effect of this creation is warm and slightly camphor-ish. The amber accord in the drydown is big on the muskiness of labdanum and earthy spiciness of cypriol and patchouli.

The reasonable price ensures the olfactory pleasure keeps on coming.

Cedar - Chopard Cedar Malaki EDP

*Available from Skins Cosmetics.

**Available from Galeries de Parfums.

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Thameen: 10 Of The Best Fragrances

Thameen Sceptre Extrait de Parfum

Thameen, the British niche brand that takes its inspiration from precious gems and treasures, had been under-performing for a while, despite the evident quality of their fragrances since launching in 2013.

That’s all changing with the appointment of Christopher Chong as creative director. He helped Amouage become the powerhouse it is today during his 12 years at the Oman-based brand. And no doubt the owner of Thameen, Basel Binjabr, wants some of the same magic too.

Thameen - Christopher Chong

IMAGE: Thameen.

Chong’s influence is already evident in the launch of the Britologne Collection and the collaboration with (and acknowledgement) of top perfumers for the London-based house.

I take you through their best releases. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Thameen Fanfare Cologne Elixir

THAMEEN CARVED OUD EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

It seems every niche brand must have an oud fragrance or two in their repertoire. While it’s not hyped as much as others in the genre, this 2013 release should more than satiate your precious ingredient fix.

The spicy-aromatic intro is on the quiet side. It allows the oud (sourced from the south of India) to take centre stage with its richness. Cedarwood and patchouli amplify the woody profile.

The powdery iris facet segues ever so smoothly into the drydown where creamy sandalwood and earthy vetiver stand out.

A fine debut, along with Amber Room, Moon of Baroda, Noorolain Taif and Peacock Throne.

Thameen Carved Oud Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN GREEN PEARL EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The website blurb for this 2016 release (inspired by the glowing fluorite pearls from China) promises “a soothing and calming mood”. When so beautifully executed, how could I say no.

The intro is all about the crisp freshness of bergamot. Notes of apple and neroli set it on a green path, with a hint of sweet sunniness from mandarin orange. There’s more greenery of the aromatic-herbal variety from tea and artemisia (nothing too bitter), with a twist of spicy black pepper in the background. The drydown is earthy in style, with oakmoss and musk providing the finishing touches.

I’ve added it to my list of favourite greens.

Thameen Green Pearl Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN DIADEM EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

Frankincense (also known as olibanum), derived from the resin of the trunk of the Boswellia tree, always gets my attention. And it’s especially captivating in this 2018 release.

Here, the precious ingredient (sourced from Oman) is at its complex fresh and spicy best, with aromatic assistance from lavender and cardamom. It’s an integral part of this fragrance’s amber accord that also takes in the creaminess of vanilla absolute and earthiness of patchouli.

When combined with floral notes of saffron and rose, the result is heavenly indeed.

Thameen Diadem Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN SCEPTRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s a fair amount of pepperiness in the opening of this 2018 release. Perhaps too much for some.

Don’t walk away just yet, as the notes of peach and ylang-ylang provide a welcome fruity contrast, while the wisteria note is pushed in a spicy direction too. The amber accord in the drydown highlights the warm balsamic tones of Somali myrrh and Siam benzoin.

Highly recommended if lots of sensual spice is your thing.

Thameen Sceptre Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN IMPERIAL CROWN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

With its inspiration – the State Imperial Crown in the Tower of London – I was expecting a lot from this 2018 addition to the Sovereign Collection. And it doesn’t disappoint.

The contrast between fresh and warm spiciness from notes of black pepper, pink pepper and elemi makes for an appealing opening.

The balsamic, citrus tones of the latter (often used in incense) complements the wondrous wafts of Somali frankincense. Some more info about this ingredient, which as we know was brought by the Three Wise Men, along with gold and myrrh, on their visit to Jesus after his birth (that’s how precious it is).

The resin is sourced from trees of the Boswellia species and in this perfume, it’s beautifully aromatic and woody. I trust the brand is using ethically sourced frankincense, as there is much controversy about exploitative practices in the production of this ingredient.

Okay, now where was I? Oh yes, there’s a mildly animalic leather accord in the mix, which is amplified by the smoky tones of guaiac wood and earthiness of patchouli in the drydown.

Thoroughly intriguing stuff.

Thameen Imperial Crown Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN PEREGRINA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s lots of online love for this 2019 release and all well deserved.

Damask rose, lush and almost honeyed, stands out among the heady bouquet of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes. It goes in a gorgeously gourmand direction with the creaminess of vanilla and caramel. Myrrh adds a balsamic oriental layer. The powderiness of white musk is boosted in the drydown with some clever effects.

It’s undeniably sweet, but so well done, I’m back for more.

Thameen Peregrina Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN ROYAL SAPPHIRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The name alone sounds terrifically aristocratic and with its inspiration from the St Edwards Sapphire (apparently the oldest gemstone in the British royal collection), this 2019 release radiates quality.

Bergamot and mandarin introduce citric sunniness to the composition. It’s fresh and on the right side of sweetness. Jasmine (intense and heady) is partnered with beautifully rendered orange blossom (honeyed and sensual). Their indolic character is given sparkle ’n shine with the synthetic Ambroxan. Patchouli and moss balance the slight sweetness with earthiness.

Uplifting stuff!

Thameen Royal Sapphire Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN CULLINAN DIAMOND EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

When a fragrance is named after the world’s largest rough diamond, it needs to be an impressively grand affair. And that’s exactly what this 2021 release does with elegant flair.

Starting with the bright spiciness of black pepper, it moves onto a suitably regal interpretation of the queen of florals (rose) laced with creamy vanilla and earthy orris. Skilful use of the rather fancy-sounding Cashmere Musk (FYI: a compound of synthetics and essential oils) brings it all together in a most sensual way.

It’s warm, it’s powdery, it’s slightly animalic. In fact, it’s rather lovely.

Thameen Cullinan Diamond Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN BRAVI COLOGNE ELIXIR (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

Christopher Chong joined Thameen in 2022 as their creative director. He’s been a busy boy collaborating with top perfumers on the Britologne Collection (Fanfare, Bohemian Infusion, Bravi) that debuted in 2023.

All three are well worth sniffing out if you want modern interpretations of the cologne style but with more oomph and elements of the unexpected. I’ll focus on Bravi here.

It begins innocently enough with lots of zesty ginger supported by the spicy freshness of bergamot and bitter orange. Things get more seductive as tuberose gets the honeyed and milky treatment. The white floral is prominent without being over-powering but is still not one for beginners. The softly caramel tones of tobacco mingle with creamy vanilla in the warm drydown.

I love the contrasts (fresh and warm, innocent and carnal, classic and contemporary) in this one.

Thameen Bravi Cologne Elixir

Thameen fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

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Memo Inverness EDP: An Interview With Brand Co-Founder John Molloy

Memo Inverness EDP - John Molloy

IMAGE: Memo.

It’s been a while since I gave a Memo fragrance my undivided attention. Not that the quality of the Paris-based niche brand has changed in any way. It’s just that there are so many more olfactory distractions nowadays. Memo Inverness EDP brought the company back into focus for me.

Memo Inverness EDP

After being initially contacted by the NYC PR, the arrangements for a bottle of Memo Inverness EDP made their way to Europe and then eventually the brand distributor in South Africa.

And why am I telling you this? Well, since its founding in 2007 by husband-and-wife team John and Clara Molloy, the French house has built an impressive travel-inspired fragrance business (the couple are also behind Hermetica and Floraïku). So the way Memo Inverness EDP made its way to me seems absolutely appropriate.

In this interview with John Molloy, we chat about the role of travel and how Memo Inverness EDP came to be. ***See my thoughts on this 2023 release after this interview.

Memo Inverness EDP - John Molloy

IMAGE: Memo.

Seems you’ve been travelling a lot recently. Where are you now?

Home! If Memo Paris is about travel, it doesn’t mean that we are always on the road. The destinations that inspire us are now mainly coming from dreams, books, paintings, souvenirs of family trips, world maps, pictures… as we consider perfume as a form of slow travel.

Today, when we travel, it is essentially to visit our partners, teams, stores, clients, followers or journalists abroad, to present our novelties, for special openings or events, to share our vision, talk with our strengths on the field, and learn from them to know how to make Memo Paris shine even more.

Memo Inverness EDP

With travel a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, how have you ensured Memo is different from other brands in that regard?

First, by following our intuition and our path. What we have been building for over 15 years has found its own way of expression. If you pay too much attention to what other people are doing, it paralyses you.

Of course, celebrating the world is as old as the world itself! But how you do it is key. By working with talented perfumers, beautiful ingredients and artists who bring their own vision to fragrances, we’ve come up with some truly unique creations.

Memo Eau de Memo EDP

You co-founded the company with your wife, Clara Molloy. Who does what in the couple equation?

We’re very complementary and it’s as if we’d met for the second time working together. She’s the creative mind, while I take care of the commercial side and the development of our brand worldwide. But, of course, we exchange a lot, trying to superimpose our visions, to make the right choices.

Memo Inverness EDP - Clara Molloy

IMAGE: Memo.

What was it about Inverness that made it such great inspiration for a perfume?

Clara had the idea of a Scottish destination and the name started it all. She loves words. It’s round, soft and mysterious all at once. We hear invention, eternity, endless. And the “-ness” ending is like a promise.

IMAGE OF LOCH NESS: Visit Scotland.

The area is also known for its whisky. Was that note ever a possibility in this composition?

It’s true that Scotland is famous for its whisky… and for Loch Ness. In fact, we preferred to take a step aside by choosing Inverness, a lesser-known destination, and working on a different idea for this composition, focusing on the intensity of the woods.

That said, another of our signature fragrances, Irish Leather [2013], includes essence of juniper berries, which are also used to make gin. We’ve already played this card in a certain way, and as we don’t want to repeat ourselves, we’ve chosen another type of ingredient for a composition that we want to be creative, bold and beautiful.

Memo Irish Leather EDP

Was it perfumer Nadège Le Garlantezec’s idea to use amyris oil in Memo Inverness edp?

Nadège had this desire for a refined, intense wood and we welcomed this proposal into the creative process, which is a moment of constant exchange and connection with the perfumer, to arrive at the dream composition.

Memo Inverness EDP - Nadège Le Garlantezec

This is her second creation for Memo (after Flåm, 2021). Why do you enjoy working with Nadège?

Because Flåm was a wonderful shared experience and we wanted to continue the journey together. Working faithfully, confidently and over the long term with our perfumers is one of our priorities.

Memo Flam EDP

IMAGE: Memo.

What’s next for Memo?

In 2024, the Cuirs Nomades collection will reveal new surprises, and we can’t wait to share them with you!

***MEMO INVERNESS EDP IMPRESSIONS

If you’ve heard fragrances being described as “dry” but had no idea what that meant, this perfume will explain it all for you. That feel permeates the scent from start to finish through a variety of woods (cedar, sandalwood, guaiac wood and, in particular, amyris).

Not as commonly used as the afore-mentioned ingredients but sharing characteristics with them, it’s easy to understand why perfumer Nadège Le Garlantezec highlighted amyris in her composition.

Memo Inverness EDP

She might describe the formula for Memo Inverness EDP as “bold and short”, but the material is allowed to reveal its complexity (from fresh and spicy to earthy) with support from balsamic cedarwood, creamy sandalwood and smoky guaiac wood. Mate absolute can be bitter and sharp; here it emphasises the foresty ambience with its herbal aromatics.

At first, Memo Inverness EDP didn’t seem particularly Scottish to me. With its namesake (the capital of the Scottish Highlands on the River Ness), I was expecting something more literal, damper, wetter, floral (it’s an addition to the brand’s flower-focused Fleurs Bohèmes Collection).

But the more I wear it, the more I’m appreciating the perfumer’s interpretation of the destination, especially the combo of its more smouldering aspects with the powderiness of orris butter.

Memo Inverness EDP

When I interviewed Clara Molloy several years ago for my blog, she said: ”All of our competitors that started when we launched have sold their companies. There are many brands and many more to come. I hope everyone will keep in mind that niche means high standards. Otherwise, there is no point in being niche.” Memo Inverness EDP affirms the company’s reputation for perfumes of quality and distinction.

Memo Inverness EDP is available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics and Arc Store. 

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Aurélien Guichard Interview: “I Want People To Understand What They’re Wearing”

Aurélien Guichard

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

Niche brands keep on coming, but Matiere Premiere has made more of an impact than most since its launch in 2019. Even before he founded his own company, Aurélien Guichard (he continues to produce scents for other brands as a perfumer at the Japanese flavour and fragrance corporation Takasago) was admired for creations such as:

+ Bond No 9 Chinatown EDP (2005)

+ Sean John Unforgivable EDT (2006)

+ Gucci Pour Homme EDT (2008)

+ John Galliano EDP (2008)

+ Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci EDP (2009)

+ Robert Piguet Casbah EDP (2012)

+ Versace Eros EDT (2012)

+ Trussardi My Name EDP (2013)

+ Narciso Rodriguez Narciso EDP (2014)

+ Michael Kors Wonderlust EDP (2016)

+ Zadig & Voltaire This is Him! EDT (2016)

+ Valentino Valentina Poudre EDP (2016)

+ Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016)

+ Issey Miyake L’Eau Majeure d’Issey EDT (2017)

+ Tom Ford Sole di Positano EDP (2017)

+ Giorgio Armani Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise EDP (2018)

Aurélien Guichard - Versace Eros EDT

Aurélien Guichard comes from a Grasse-based family with perfumery running through its veins. His grandparents grew roses and jasmine for the industry.

His father, Jean Guichard, winner of the inaugural Prix François Coty in 2000, created classics such as Cacharel LouLou EDP, Calvin Klein Obsession EDP and Hermès Concentré d’Orange Verte EDT.

Aurélien Guichard

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

So why do I rate Matiere Premiere so highly? The name of the company (French for “raw material”) says it all. From the product descriptions on the website – no flouncy, self-indulgent stories – to the scents, Aurélien Guichard lets his way with quality ingredients speak for themselves. The result: distinctive creations (some of them already genre bests) that offer excellent value for money.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Bois d'Ebene EDP

You come from a Grasse-based family that grew jasmine and roses for perfumers. Did you know at a young age that you wanted to become a perfumer? Or was there another career path you also considered?

I grew up in a family of perfumers. Almost everyone around me in my childhood was either a perfumer, a sculptor, or an artist, so I grew up with a beautiful vision and an aesthetic environment. Before I decided to pursue this profession, it was instructive and inspiring to witness both the joys and the sorrows of these creative fields.

If I hadn’t become a perfumer, I would have loved to be a professional athlete (if I had had the talent for it); my second passion was field hockey.

Overall, what has always interested me the most is working with people from different countries and horizons, whether through creation, sports, or professional collaborations.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Neroli Oranger EDP

Your father, Jean Guichard, was also a great perfumer. How did he influence you?

My father influenced me with his discipline, work ethic and vision of this profession. He saw perfumery more like poetry rather than an industry; he taught me quality is intricately tied to craftsmanship.

“My father he taught me quality is intricately tied to craftsmanship” – Aurélien Guichard 

Other people have also left their mark on me, particularly my grandparents, who instilled a love for the land and the gifts of nature in me. My mother, a sculptor, served as an example in believing in the power of my creative intuition.

Finally, all the people I have had the privilege to collaborate with over the years, especially the couturiers, have played a significant role in shaping my journey.

Jean Guichard

Where did you study?

I come from the south of France, but I grew up in Paris. I’ve always been drawn to expansive topics, which led me to pursue my studies abroad. I completed my university education in England and later studied the art of perfumery at the Givaudan Perfumery School in France. I felt the need to explore other cultures and work with people from different backgrounds and experiences.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Cologne Cedrat EDP

How did your fine fragrance career get going?

I was fortunate to begin my journey with people who believed in me. At the age of 23, right after graduating, I had the privilege of creating fragrances for Guerlain and Nina Ricci.

The essence of creation and the magic of it lie not only in crafting perfumes but also in the intuition of the brands that we, the perfumers, collaborate with. It’s important to trust young perfumers to compose fragrances for the big houses. It doesn’t happen so often these days.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella EDT

IMAGE: Guerlain.

Is there a perfume that has special significance for you and why?

Many perfumes have unique stories which make them special in my eyes. But Matiere Premiere Radical Rose is a dream come true to me: cultivating my own centifolia roses, extracting absolute from my flowers, incorporating the absolute into one of my formulas, and finally, bottling the creation under my own brand.

You launched Matiere Premiere in 2019 and have made a big impact already. Had you wanted to start your own company for a long time? Has it given you more creative freedom?

I have always felt a great sense of freedom, even when working for other brands. However, my desire to establish Matiere Premiere came from an aspiration to create a complete expression of my tastes and desires. At Matiere Premiere, I am both the perfumer and the artistic director, which allows me great freedom to bring my vision to life.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather EDP

One of the things I love about Matiere Premiere are the succinct, no-nonsense perfume descriptions on the website. Is that a deliberate approach to avoid the over-embellishment and elaborate stories?

That is exactly it. The goal is to present perfumes in a factual manner and share my olfactory intention in a minimalistic way, without embellishments. The concept of functionality is crucial in that sense. It’s important that there is a truthful connection between the narrative and the creation; I want people to understand what they’re wearing.

“The goal is to present perfumes in a factual manner and share my olfactory intention in a minimalistic way, without embellishments.” – Aurélien Guichard 

I compose Matiere Premiere fragrances with a round construction – creations are linear, instead of being built around top, heart and base notes. What you will smell immediately after spritzing effectively stays the same for hours on end.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Parisian Musc EDP

You have the distinction of being the only perfumer to own and produce his own rose centifolia on the family-owned farm in Grasse. Does that come with great responsibility?

Absolutely. In addition to roses, we also cultivate tuberose and have just begun lavandin in February 2023. This comes with a real sense of responsibility – running a flower farm is a complex and beautiful enterprise, as you work with nature every day. I have reconnected with families of workers that have collaborated with my family for generations.

And I have also decided to bring our farming activity into the future with organic farming techniques, so we are Ecocert certified. Finally, my goal as a farmer is to bring a sense of truth to my creations – it’s almost like adopting a more purist approach.

“My goal as a farmer is to bring a sense of truth to my creations – it’s almost like adopting a more purist approach.” – Aurélien Guichard 

Matiere Premiere French Flower EDP Tuberose

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

How is that rose centifolia featured in Matiere Premiere Radical Rose?

Radical Rose is the fragrance that contains the highest possible concentration of rose centifolia from the Grasse region. We really pushed it to a maximum. Overdosing on the rose meant I had to emphasise its positive facets while tempering any less desirable notes.

It was about maintaining richness and complexity, with luminous notes at the beginning – saffron and Jamaican pepper – and avoiding the slightly oldish facets of the rose. Which is why we chose the cistus note, which captures the scent of rose resin that lingers on your hands after harvesting rose centifolia.

Matiere Premiere Radical Rose EDP Centifolia Petals

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

While natural materials are central to Matiere Premiere, of course you also use synthetics such as Ambroxan… 

Matiere Premiere is a perfumery with a distinctive style. While each fragrance is unique, they share a common olfactory DNA.

I use an overdose of a natural ingredient which I then facet with either natural or synthetic elements. Both work equally, although the perfumes contain between 85% and 92% natural ingredients.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron EDP

I’m particularly enjoying the exuberance of Matiere Premiere French Flower. Anything unusual about its creation?

Working with a primary raw material often means that beautiful classics have already been created around it. Take Robert Piguet Fracas, for instance, a masterpiece. Hence, my challenge as perfumer is to offer something new and propel the fragrance into uncharted territory.

Tuberose-based perfumes often tend to be dark, black, opulent, almost dangerous. With French Flower, we took the opposite route: it’s a luminous, radiant and clear fragrance. What makes it almost unique in the world is that we use French tuberose and, of course, we are happy that it’s one that we grow ourselves. Olfactively speaking, French tuberose is enveloping, solar and expansive, while Indian tuberose is greener and harder.

The idea of French Flower was simple: to recreate the scent of our tuberose field at night. This is why I chose to combine two extractions of tuberoses, an absolute and an enfleurage, and no other white flower but a hint of orange blossom. It’s one of the most beautiful scents in the world – almost an olfactory shock.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere French Flower EDP

You’ve recently launched Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder. I see you sourced vanilla absolute from the Fair for Life agricultural programme in Madagascar. Why is responsible sourcing so important to you?

At Matiere Premiere, sourcing is my first act of creation. The quality of the perfume is linked to the sourcing in many ways. We always prioritise olfactive excellence, but we also consistently favour ethical and organic productions, striving to find the best producers providing the best quality.

The future of luxury lies in the access to high-quality raw materials. Ethical sourcing is the luxury of today and tomorrow.

(See my thoughts on Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder at the end of this interview.)

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP

How do you juggle your roles as perfumer at Takasago and founder-perfumer of Matiere Premiere?

I’ve found a balance between the two roles. When working at Takasago, it’s about being at the service of a brand and its creative universe — couturiers, marketing directors. When I work for Matiere Premiere, I work at the service of natural ingredients. These are two different approaches that I equally enjoy.

“When I work for Matiere Premiere, I work at the service of natural ingredients.” – Aurélien Guichard 

Additionally, I’m working on expanding our farm near Grasse. This gives me the opportunity to work in a totally different environment. Working in various contexts and locations around the world is a privilege, a chance to practise my craft in a completely free manner. If I feel free, fulfilled and happy, it’s also because I’m fortunate to work with fantastic teams.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP

At Matiere Premiere, my two incredible co-founders enable me to bring this project to life. At Takasago, I work with great teams in a very stimulating environment. Lastly, in the agricultural context, there’s this love of the soil, of nature, with passionate people working alongside me… I am very lucky.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Neroli Oranger EDP

***MATIERE PREMIERE VANILLA POWDER EDP IMPRESSIONS

Vanilla is a spice. In case you were in any doubt about that, Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder makes that point clear with sustainably sourced vanilla absolute from Madagascar at the heart of this 2023 release.

In this EDP, it’s also creamy and somewhat sweet without tipping over into obvious gourmand territory (although you might feel hungry while wearing it), with warm tropical undertones from coconut powder.

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP Vanilla Bundles

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

If you pick up something slightly fresh and spicy that would be the trendy palo santo (sourced from Ecuador, Spanish for “holy wood” and used for its healing properties when burnt as incense) at work in the composition. It can be domineering, but Aurélien Guichard keeps it in the background to make the most of the richness of his star ingredient, with additional powderiness provided by white musks.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP

The result is smooth, comfy, distinctive and a timely addition to a genre that’s always been a perfumery mainstay but is particularly popular now (Tom Ford Vanilla Sex, anyone?).

Matiere Premiere fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.