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Amandine Clerc-Marie Interview: “Crafting Fragrances Is Neither A Lonely Art, Nor A Straight Line”

Amandine Clerc-Marie

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

When I received news earlier this year that Amandine Clerc-Marie had been promoted to principal perfumer at dsm-firmenich, I wasn’t surprised.

The perfumer has created a steady and substantial body of work since her debut in 2003, with creations that include:

+ Kenneth Cole Black EDP (2004)

+ Jovoy Chypre EDP (2007)

+ Chloé EDP (2008)

+ MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP (2008)

+ Jaguar Vision EDT (2010)

+ Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud EDP (2011)

+ Atkinsons Oud Save The King EDP (2013)

+ Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014)

+ Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP (2015)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP (2015)

+ Sisley Izia EDP (2017)

+ Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP (2018)

+ Davidoff Cool Water Intense For Her EDP (2019)

+ Escada Candy Love EDT (2020)

+ Valentino Voce Viva EDP (2020)

+ Estée Lauder Sensuous Stars EDP (2021)

+ Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP (2022)

+ Burberry Goddess EDP (2023)

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chloe EDP

From earlier wins such as Lui Rochas EDT and Chloé EDP to huge hits such as Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Amandine Clerc-Marie has made her mark with her customary attention to quality and the all-important hook.

Lancome La Nuit Tresor EDP

IMAGE: Lancôme

While her finesse with the queen of florals is clear in several creations, I noticed as I was putting this story together, Amandine Clerc-Marie is the queen herself when it comes to vanilla. The ingredient pops up in everything from Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP, Mugler Aura EDP and Escada Candy Love EDT to Valentino Voce Viva EDP and Nina Ricci Nina Soleil EDP.

Amandine Clerc-Marie

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Congratulations on your recent principal perfumer appointment. For those who aren’t in the industry, what does a principal perfumer do?

I create a lot of fragrances for many fine fragrance brands. I meet artists, be they designers or creative directors; I spend time with clients to understand what they’re after.

“A perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

I also like to spend time with our trainee perfumers as I value the high importance of transmission in our profession. I take part in evaluation sessions during which new qualities or even new ingredients are presented to me. I come up with new combinations. You know, a perfumer’s day is a constant quest for inspiration!

MDCI Parfums Peche Cardinal EDP

IMAGE: MDCI Parfums.

Where did perfumery start for you?

Ever since I was a child, I’ve had a passion for perfume. My mother worked for a perfume house. Creating perfume seems to be part of my DNA.

My earliest olfactive memories are of my grandfather’s home in Normandy, France, where I wandered freely, discovering the natural world around me. I can still close my eyes and remember the pungent odours of grass and crumpled leaves bordering the garden pond with its wet, humid air – fresh, green and aromatic. I also recall the smell of ripe apples which my grandfather made into his own cider, a scent and taste I still love today.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chloe EDP

My own career came about quite naturally. During my apprenticeship, while learning about raw materials, my sense of smell suddenly came to life. At the end of my studies at ISIPCA, I wrote a thesis on modernising the leather note in Hermès Bel Ami EDT and it was at this point that I met Michel Almairac, with whom I worked for more than 10 years at Robertet.

Michel Almairac

IMAGE: Robertet

Working with Michel Almairac after completing your studies at ISIPCA must have been a formative experience for you. What do you value most about your time spent with him?

Michel Almairac taught me to work on short formulations, with only raw materials essential in my formula. No superfluous ingredients were allowed. Just like him, I still overdose one or two notes at the beginning of the composition, keeping his practice of starting with something a little bit crazy to affirm a strong stance. But I learned to balance his overdose faster than what I used to.

“He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

He taught me to not be scared of my ideas and to work through the process with confidence and precision. He taught me everything with kindness and patience, but still with demand.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Yves Saint Laurent Trench EDP

What was your fine fragrance debut? And how did your career progress from there?

My very first win was a woody-chypre fragrance called Lui Rochas, with Michel, in 2003. The big turning point was then in 2008 with the creation with Michel Almairac of Chloé EDP that instantly became a classic.

Then in 2011, I joined dsm-firmenich and had the opportunity to start working with masters, such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc, who have been great partners and mentors for me here.

Lui Rochas EDT

IMAGE: Rochas.

What advice would you give to young perfumers just starting their careers?

I would tell them to demand the best of themselves, stay determined, be diligent and always remain optimistic.

You’ve created several rose-focused fragrances. For example, Chloé EDP (2008), Chopard Rose Malaki EDP (2014) and Sisley Izia EDP (2017). Is this an ingredient you particularly enjoy working with?

Rose is the most fascinating ingredient. Even though she is considered the “queen of perfumery”, it’s true that only the rose can offer such a multi-faceted experience with so many varieties.

Perfumers have never ceased to explore roses and I doubt that will ever stop. Roses have all the qualities that can be expected in a perfume and are themselves one of the most complex perfumes.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Chopard Rose Malaki EDP

Your 2017 co-creation Mugler Aura EDP pushed the boundaries for a designer fragrance and I would imagine it took some time to reach the final version. Was this project more complicated than others?

Indeed, it’s been one of the most complicated creations that I have worked on. We wanted it to be innovative and unique and also extremely powerful.

It was also a huge challenge for our group of perfumers (Daphné Bugey, Christophe Raynaud, Marie Salamagne and Olivier Cresp) to come up with a new proposition after the mythical Angel – a personal favourite – and the blockbuster Alien. It’s in Mugler’s DNA to challenge the world of perfumery with every new creation, which puts a bit of pressure on you!

Mugler Aura EDP

IMAGE: Mugler.

Burberry Goddess (2023) is a recent success of yours. You used the FirGood technology in its creation. It sounds very technical. Could you simplify it for us?

For Goddess, I used three distinct types of vanilla extraction. The first is a Vanilla infusion, which provides the brightest woody-vanilla possible, then I used FirGood Vanilla for the first time in a fragrance: this innovative technology enables us to extract vanilla without any solvent, obtaining a sweet, rich and animalic vanilla. Lastly, with an absolute, which is darker and richer, gave the fragrance a mysterious, milky aspect.

“Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery.” – Amandine Clerc-Marie

Exploring vanilla was a very inspiring playground. What really interested me about this project was discovering its new facets. Working with FirGood Vanilla for the first time allowed me to express a new story for this iconic ingredient in perfumery. Bringing a totally new vision of vanilla to Burberry was my day-to-day challenge, and I loved it!

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Burberry Goddess EDP

I have created the most powerful vanilla overdose on the market. It’s totally new and with a new vanilla extract, dsm-firmenich’s proprietary vanilla FirGood, that makes this creation so unique.

There’s no doubting your technical and creative skills. What other quality do you bring to projects that makes them such a success?

Being a visual person, I start the creation process with raw materials and the desire to pass on a strong olfactory message.

I begin with one or two raw materials to create a specific accord, which should be strong enough to be reworked for months and which will serve as my North Star and the signature of the fragrance. Once I have the initial accord, I surround it with other notes to present different samples to the brand, each representing a strong perspective. Finally, I tweak once more, depending on the brand’s feedback, to craft the finished scent.

Amandine Clerc-Marie - Carolina Herrera Stallion Leather EDP

Creating fragrances is similar to sculpting. We mould the invisible, working on volumes of specific scents to adjust the overall performance of notes.

It’s important to know that crafting fragrances is neither a lonely art, nor a straight line. We really count on the advice and help of our laboratory team, and often execute many rounds of iterations that push our creative boundaries.

Carolina Herrera Platinum Leather EDP and Burberry Goddess EDP are available in South Africa from selected Edgars stores nationwide. 

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Bulgari Man In Black Parfum Review

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

It’s been 10 years since Bulgari Man in Black EDP became a huge hit for the Italian luxury jewellery brand. Even inveterate niche snobs succumbed to its undeniable allure. Will the recently launched Bulgari Man in Black Parfum be equally popular?

Bulgari Man in Black EDP

PERFUMER

Alberto Morillas is no stranger to the Bulgari Man franchise. In fact, since its inception in 2010, he has created all the fragrances in the range. So no surprise to see the maestro behind Bulgari Man in Black Parfum.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for dsm-firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum - Alberto Morillas

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

If you want to know why Alberto Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDT (1996), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Amouage Journey Man EDP (2014), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

Kenzo Flower Eau de Vie EDP

SO WHAT DOES BULGARI MAN IN BLACK PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

It’s spice and all things very nice with a combo of cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper in the opening. Sometimes it’s more peppery on my skin, which could be the elemi* at work.

It goes in a floral direction with tuberose (always welcome in male fragrances), building on the warmth of the opening. The white floral has a reputation for being animalic, but the perfumer focuses on its creaminess instead, with powdery iris in the background.

With the perfume’s name, it’s welcome to the darker side in the drydown, but in an accessible way. There’s rich earthiness from patchouli and cypriol, while benzoin gives it an element of soft vanilla-ish sweetness.

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

Is that you I hear wanting to know about the rum booziness that was such an integral part of the original’s appeal? It’s one of the first things I looked out for when I started wearing Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s not featured in this one. But there’s more than enough to compensate for its absence.

The various elements come together to produce a fragrance that while smooth and sophisticated presents plenty of depth and character. I expect quality from Bulgari and the brand doesn’t disappoint with this latest addition to one of the more dependable designer franchises.

*As Alberto Morillas works for dsm-firmenich, it’s also good to see this parfum reflecting the company’s increasing commitment to responsibly sourced ingredients. For example, the elemi from the Philippines (the resin is hand harvested by farmers from July to March) comes from an established partnership that includes a digital system, Path2Farm, guaranteeing the traceability of the raw material from farm to final product.

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

THE PARFUM FACTOR

What started out as a trickle has become a veritable flood. I’m talking about the deluge of parfums on the market, especially from big designer brands.

As designer becomes more niche and niche becomes more designer (it’s so confusing), this highest fragrance concentration (also called perfume, pure perfume and extrait de parfum) is becoming the all-important way to exalt quality.

If you know your fragrance history, you’ll know there’s nothing new about parfums, per se. Many of the classics (Chanel No 5, Guerlain Mitsouko, Caron Tabac Blond, etc) were originally released in this concentration decades ago and revered by those who’ve had the good fortune to smell vintage versions of them.

If an eau fraiche (anything from 1 – 3%) and eau de cologne (2 – 4%) are the lowest fragrance concentrations according to the amount of oils, then a parfum is the highest (20 to 30% upwards), but even here there is lots of variation, depending on which online guide you consult.

Hermes Terre d'Hermes Parfum

EARTHLY ELEGANCE: Launched in 2009 and created by Jean-Claude Ellena, Terre d’Hermès Parfum is one of the best parfums, designer or otherwise.

To add to the confusion, just because it says “le parfum” on the box doesn’t mean it’s a parfum. We’re looking at you Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Pour Homme Le Parfum EDP Intense and others like it.

The same goes for “elixirs”. The name implies something rich and concentrated but doesn’t automatically mean it’s a parfum. Best advice: read those boxes carefully.

Cartier Declaration Parfum

LEATHER REPORT: Released in 2018, way before the current invasion, Cartier Déclaration Parfum is another fine example of the genre.

Another area of contention: performance (and probably the worst way to judge the quality of a fragrance). Just because it’s a parfum doesn’t mean it’s going to last forever and let everyone know how fabulous you are. Who hasn’t tried to scrub off an EDT they didn’t like but which remained with them for the rest of the day?

Which brings me back to Bulgari Man in Black Parfum. It’s a parfum in terms of the concentration of ingredients, BUT it’s not dreaded beast-mode stuff. This is all good for me. I’ll certainly add it to the list of designer (and other) parfums I hold in high regard.

Bulgari Man in Black Parfum

OTHER FRAGRANCES IN THE BULGARI MAN RANGE

With his credentials, Alberto Morillas is one of the few perfumers to create the original and all subsequent flankers in ranges such as Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, Gucci Bloom and Bvlgari Man. Perhaps it’s part of the contract when he wins yet another brief. 

Those marked with ** have been discontinued but are well worth seeking out. However, don’t pay crazy money for them just because I recommend them.

BULGARI MAN EDT** (2010)

The line makes its debut and sets the tone for future versions with its chic feel. Includes standout notes of violet leaf, bergamot, vetiver, Cashmeran and honey.

BULGARI MAN IN BLACK EDP (2014)

One of the best iterations, it opens with an irresistible trio of spice, rum and tobacco notes. They’re perfectly blended and balanced.

The sensual mood continues with smooth leather and a hint of powdery iris. The tonka bean, guaiac wood and benzoin notes in the drydown have a sophisticated vanilla-ish facet.

A snug treat.

Bulgari Man in Black EDP

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP* (2016)

Lots of spice, leather and oud + a bit of rum booziness and florals (tuberose, rose) = oriental with major sex appeal.

BULGARI MAN BLACK COLOGNE EDT* (2016)

Rum meets the freshness and greenery of citrus, then deftly contrasted with the sunny white florals of tuberose and orange blossom. An amber accord, benzoin and sandalwood up the creamy warmth.

BULGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (2018)

After all that rum booziness, the range takes a more sober direction with a trio of woodiness – cypress, cedar, vetiver – supported by the fresh spiciness of lemon and coriander.

The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Signature scent material, if that’s your thing.

Bulgari Man Wood Essence EDP

BULGARI MAN WOOD NEROLI EDP (2019)

A citrusy spin on its predecessor. Neroli, bergamot and orange work in unison to set a fresh, sunny scene. The woody aspect comes through in the form of Virginia cedarwood and cypriol oil.

There’s a big dose of Ambrox in this creation, which, depending on your view on this synthetic form of ambergris, will be good or bad news. It’s enhanced by a white musk note.

Not the most exciting fragrance, but it will make you feel good.

BULGARI MAN GLACIAL ESSENCE EDP (2020)

No prizes for guessing that with a name like Glacial Essence, this is a freshie.

Juniper berries, cool and aromatic, stand out in the opening. There’s a hint of spicy ginger in the background. A note of Australian sandalwood brings creamy smoothness to the composition, while orris root does its powdery thing.

And now for some science (which perfumery is often about). Clearwood features in the drydown. This synthetic molecule from dsm-firmenich is a softer and airier version of patchouli and completes the scent in a clean and modern way.

Bulgari Man Glacial Essence EDP

BULGARI MAN TERRAE ESSENCE EDP (2021)

Zesty citron leads the way to vetiver and orris concrete, their woodiness complemented by just the right amount of sensual smokiness and spiciness via resinous styrax.

Seemingly straightforward stuff, but compelling nevertheless in a dry style.

Bulgari Man Terrae Essence EDP

BULGARI MAN RAIN ESSENCE EDP (2023)

The opening is slightly citric (orange) and somewhat green and herbal (green tea). The latter features often in Bulgari fragrances, which should come as no surprise – the brand has the distinction of launching the first tea scent in 1992 (the Jean-Claude Ellena creation Bulgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Vert EDC). The white lotus accord contributes a floral and aquatic aspect, without going overboard on the waterworks.

Alberto Morillas is known for his love of and expertise with musks and while there’s plenty of that powderiness here, it’s not overpowering.

The warm amber accord in the drydown is joined by the musky-spicy tones of guaiac wood.

If I’m being fussy and literal, it doesn’t necessarily make me think of rain when I wear it. But it certainly has the rejuvenating qualities of that element, so mission accomplished.

Bulgari Man Rain Essence EDP

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5 REASONS TO LOVE DOLLY PARTON*

Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

1) From her dirt-poor Tennessee background (one of 12 children) to 100 million+ records sold, she’s a pop culture institution.

2) Don’t be fooled by the larger-than-life persona, she’s a smart businesswoman with an estimated worth of $650 million. Apart from the rights to her songs, she’s the force behind Dollywood theme and water parks, diners, merchandise, books and more.

Dollywood Entrance

IMAGE: Maverick Family Life blog.

3) She can laugh at herself while laughing all the way to the bank, with memorable quotes such as:

“If I hadn’t been a woman, I’d have been a drag queen”,

“The higher your hair, the closer you are to God”,

“It costs a lot to look this cheap”, and

“I’m not offended by all the dumb blonde jokes because I know I’m not dumb… and I know I’m not blonde.”

Dolly Parton Cookbook

IMAGE: shop.dollyparton.com

4) Despite the increasingly rabid polarisation of American politics, she’s remained resolutely apolitical, which only increases her broad appeal.

5) Proving there’s still life in the genre, she joined the celeb fragrance game in 2021 with Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP.

Dolly Parton

IMAGE: dollyfragrance.com

As with many in the category, it’s sweet, but Dolly’s undeniable charm must be working on me (it always does). Its fruity-floral aspect (peony, pear, blackcurrant, jasmine) meets the woody depths of sandalwood, patchouli and fir album, underscored by powdery musk, hits the D-spot with its uplifting quality.

Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

In my recent interview with perfumer Gabriela Chelariu, she had this to say about working with the superstar on Dolly Scent From Above EDP.

“Dolly Parton is one of the most gracious people I have worked with. Although I’ve never met her in person, she was deeply involved in developing the fragrance and was precise in what she wanted it to be.

“I refined it until she found the signature she envisioned. I remember every time she wanted another adjustment, she always apologised thinking that she is too demanding. She is very considerate and has a lot of respect for the creative process, being a creative force herself.”

Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

*This isn’t no April Fool’s joke, y’all.

Dolly Scent From Above EDP is available from Scent Beauty. 

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Cedar Fragrances: Fresh To Surprisingly Sensual

Cedar - Byredo Super Cedar EDP

One of the main woods in perfumery, cedar has a special place in my heart for its versatility and integral role in building impactful woody accords.

Part of the conifer family, the main varieties include Atlas (from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco), Lebanon (the tree is represented on the country’s flag) and Himalayan.

Lebanon Flag

IMAGE: Freepik.

Did you know the commonly used Virginia is not a true cedar and is actually from the juniper family? Now, you do.

There are also several synthetic cedars, including cedryl acetate, Cedrol, Vertofix and Cedramber.

So how does cedar smell, apart from, um, woody? That would depend on the variety and the combo of materials used by the perfumer, of course. But in general, it ranges from the fresh and resinous to earthy and pencil shaving-like (the wood is used to make pencils) and even leathery. It’s also more sensual than you might realise.

Cedar - Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

SERGE LUTENS FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS EDP (CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE & PIERRE BOURDON)

Always a good place to start with an innovative classic in the genre. And this 1992 release from the French niche house (originally created for the Japanese beauty brand Shiseido) sets the bar very high too. At the time, cedar was seen as a masculine note and perfumers Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon took it in a more feminine direction (hence the fragrance’s name).

Taking its inspiration from the honeyed smells emanating from leather stalls in Morocco, it surrounds deep Atlas cedar with fruity (plum, peach), spicy (cinnamon, cloves), floral (orange blossom, violet) and creamy (sandalwood, benzoin) accents.

The result? An incredibly sensual experience which, more than 30 years later, even though reformulated, has lost none of its revolutionary beauty. And for the record, it’s perfectly unisex, in case you’re freaked out about the “féminité” bit.

Cedar - Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois EDP

IMAGE: Serge Lutens.

ORMONDE JAYNE ISFARKAND EDP (GEZA SCHOEN)

When I interviewed Ormonde Jayne founder Linda Pilkington, she spoke about the origins of this 2005 release.

“One of our best-selling perfumes, a short formula, and originally made for my husband when he was 40 years old,” she said. “He got so many compliments on it, I had to bring it into the range.”

Its popularity is easy to understand. The opening is citrus-crisp with notes of lime, bergamot and mandarin orange. Adding to the sharpness, a herbal take on pink pepper makes way for the earthiness of cedar, vetiver and oakmoss in the drydown.

The epitome of elegance.

Cedar - Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand EDP

KILIAN STRAIGHT TO HEAVEN EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

There’s no missing the dark booziness in the opening of this 2007 release from the French niche brand’s The Cellars Collection, thanks to a shot of rum.

It’s quite intense, so give it time to settle with the creaminess of vanilla, the sensual stickiness of dried fruit and the earthiness of nutmeg. The drydown sees the warm spiciness of patchouli contrasted with the freshness of cedar.

It’s not as animalic as the brand makes it out to be, but that doesn’t stop it from being a wonderfully rich treat.

Cedar - Kilian Straight To Heaven EDP

COMME DES GARÇONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE)

If I was in the perfume-naming business, I might call this 2010 release from the Japanese brand “Wonderwoods”, because there’s an assortment of woods going down here, including cedar, sandalwood and guaiac wood.

CDG has never shied away from synthetics and they play their part too in the appeal of this scent, especially Javanol (clean and creamy sandalwood) and Cashmeran, with its musky-woody vibe. They’re infused with the earthy spiciness of black pepper and nutmeg and smokiness of incense.

The brand describes it as “wood gone mad”. I describe it as soothing and distinctive.

Cedar - Comme des Garcons Wonderwood EDP

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS GREEN SAPPHIRE PARFUM**

The British niche company has produced a mind-boggling array of scents (heading for the 200 mark any day now) since its founding in 2008, so sifting the best from the rest is a project in itself. This 2016 release is one of their standouts.

The opening is rich with the rosy fruitiness of raspberry and spicy leatheriness of saffron. There’s an element of freshness from a note of violet leaf too. Pine gives it aromatic appeal and sets it on a forest-y-woody path to the drydown featuring creamy sandalwood, the pencil shaving-like softness of Atlas cedar and oriental warmth of Dehnal oud (this variety of the precious ingredient is known for its quality). It’s not officially listed but there’s certainly the synthetic Cashmeran, with its woody muskiness, in the mix.

You’ll get compliments, people will want to be your best friend when you wear this stuff. Not that I wear fragrances for those reasons, but it is that good.

Cedar - Boadicea The Victorious Green Sapphire Parfum

BYREDO SUPER CEDAR EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Super indeed. As in ISO E Super. Discovered by John B Hall and James M Sanders in 1973, the synthetic is known for its silky cedar-ish properties. Perfumer Geza Schoen created a major sensation when he showcased it on its own, as a scent in itself, in Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 EDT (2006).

In the 2016 release from the Swedish niche brand, it gives the combo of rose, Virginian cedar, vetiver and musk an uplifting spin.

A minimalist composition, yes, but big on the gratification.

Cedar - Byredo Super Cedar EDP

BVLGARI MAN WOOD ESSENCE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

If you’re going to do the signature fragrance thing, this creation from the Italian luxury jewellery brand is the way to go.

After all the boozy rumm-iness of Bvlgari Man in Black EDP (2014), Bvlgari Man Black Orient EDP (2016) and Man Black Cologne EDT (2016), the range took a more sober direction with a focus on natural elements, starting with Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP in 2018.

The aromatics of cypress and smoothness of cedar mingle with the earthiness of vetiver to deliver all the elegant woodiness you could possibly want, with fresh ’n spicy assistance from citrus and coriander. The balsamic warmth of benzoin in the drydown adds sensuality to the mix, without getting too sweet.

Class in glass.

Cedar - Bvlgari Man Wood Essence EDP

PENHALIGON’S HALFETI CEDAR EDP* (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

The original Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (2015) was a big hit for the British heritage brand with its spice and oud blend. It was followed by Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather EDP in 2020. Who says niche brands don’t do flankers à la designers, I grumbled to myself smugly, as I thought the range would taper off into predictable mediocrity.

Well, I was wrong. Very wrong. The 2020 release Penhaligon’s Halfeti Cedar EDP is the best one yet.

There’s a whole lot of boozy fruitiness going on at first with peach, dried fruit and rum notes at the fore. And then something almost metallic (that must be the mineral accord in the official notes) together with the powderiness of cinnamon. Intriguing… The Atlas cedar is resinous- and balsamic-rich, with vanilla rounding it off with spicy creaminess.

Now, I know why the bottle is so dark…

Cedar - Penhaligon's Halfeti Cedar EDP

CHOPARD CEDAR MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

If you’ve been keeping up with the releases from the Swiss luxury jewellery brand, you’ll know they have seriously upped their game in recent years.

A 2023 addition to the Middle Eastern-influenced Malaki range, Chopard Cedar Malaki EDP opens with the aromatics of cardamom, cypress and lavender. There’s a herbal dimension from artemisia, with just the right amount of bitterness. With two types of cedar (Atlas and Lebanon), the effect of this creation is warm and slightly camphor-ish. The amber accord in the drydown is big on the muskiness of labdanum and earthy spiciness of cypriol and patchouli.

The reasonable price ensures the olfactory pleasure keeps on coming.

Cedar - Chopard Cedar Malaki EDP

*Available from Skins Cosmetics.

**Available from Galeries de Parfums.

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Thameen: 10 Of The Best Fragrances

Thameen Sceptre Extrait de Parfum

Thameen, the British niche brand that takes its inspiration from precious gems and treasures, had been under-performing for a while, despite the evident quality of their fragrances since launching in 2013.

That’s all changing with the appointment of Christopher Chong as creative director. He helped Amouage become the powerhouse it is today during his 12 years at the Oman-based brand. And no doubt the owner of Thameen, Basel Binjabr, wants some of the same magic too.

Thameen - Christopher Chong

IMAGE: Thameen.

Chong’s influence is already evident in the launch of the Britologne Collection and the collaboration with (and acknowledgement) of top perfumers for the London-based house.

I take you through their best releases. Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Thameen Fanfare Cologne Elixir

THAMEEN CARVED OUD EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

It seems every niche brand must have an oud fragrance or two in their repertoire. While it’s not hyped as much as others in the genre, this 2013 release should more than satiate your precious ingredient fix.

The spicy-aromatic intro is on the quiet side. It allows the oud (sourced from the south of India) to take centre stage with its richness. Cedarwood and patchouli amplify the woody profile.

The powdery iris facet segues ever so smoothly into the drydown where creamy sandalwood and earthy vetiver stand out.

A fine debut, along with Amber Room, Moon of Baroda, Noorolain Taif and Peacock Throne.

Thameen Carved Oud Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN GREEN PEARL EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The website blurb for this 2016 release (inspired by the glowing fluorite pearls from China) promises “a soothing and calming mood”. When so beautifully executed, how could I say no.

The intro is all about the crisp freshness of bergamot. Notes of apple and neroli set it on a green path, with a hint of sweet sunniness from mandarin orange. There’s more greenery of the aromatic-herbal variety from tea and artemisia (nothing too bitter), with a twist of spicy black pepper in the background. The drydown is earthy in style, with oakmoss and musk providing the finishing touches.

I’ve added it to my list of favourite greens.

Thameen Green Pearl Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN DIADEM EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

Frankincense (also known as olibanum), derived from the resin of the trunk of the Boswellia tree, always gets my attention. And it’s especially captivating in this 2018 release.

Here, the precious ingredient (sourced from Oman) is at its complex fresh and spicy best, with aromatic assistance from lavender and cardamom. It’s an integral part of this fragrance’s amber accord that also takes in the creaminess of vanilla absolute and earthiness of patchouli.

When combined with floral notes of saffron and rose, the result is heavenly indeed.

Thameen Diadem Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN SCEPTRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s a fair amount of pepperiness in the opening of this 2018 release. Perhaps too much for some.

Don’t walk away just yet, as the notes of peach and ylang-ylang provide a welcome fruity contrast, while the wisteria note is pushed in a spicy direction too. The amber accord in the drydown highlights the warm balsamic tones of Somali myrrh and Siam benzoin.

Highly recommended if lots of sensual spice is your thing.

Thameen Sceptre Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN IMPERIAL CROWN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

With its inspiration – the State Imperial Crown in the Tower of London – I was expecting a lot from this 2018 addition to the Sovereign Collection. And it doesn’t disappoint.

The contrast between fresh and warm spiciness from notes of black pepper, pink pepper and elemi makes for an appealing opening.

The balsamic, citrus tones of the latter (often used in incense) complements the wondrous wafts of Somali frankincense. Some more info about this ingredient, which as we know was brought by the Three Wise Men, along with gold and myrrh, on their visit to Jesus after his birth (that’s how precious it is).

The resin is sourced from trees of the Boswellia species and in this perfume, it’s beautifully aromatic and woody. I trust the brand is using ethically sourced frankincense, as there is much controversy about exploitative practices in the production of this ingredient.

Okay, now where was I? Oh yes, there’s a mildly animalic leather accord in the mix, which is amplified by the smoky tones of guaiac wood and earthiness of patchouli in the drydown.

Thoroughly intriguing stuff.

Thameen Imperial Crown Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN PEREGRINA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

There’s lots of online love for this 2019 release and all well deserved.

Damask rose, lush and almost honeyed, stands out among the heady bouquet of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes. It goes in a gorgeously gourmand direction with the creaminess of vanilla and caramel. Myrrh adds a balsamic oriental layer. The powderiness of white musk is boosted in the drydown with some clever effects.

It’s undeniably sweet, but so well done, I’m back for more.

Thameen Peregrina Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN ROYAL SAPPHIRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The name alone sounds terrifically aristocratic and with its inspiration from the St Edwards Sapphire (apparently the oldest gemstone in the British royal collection), this 2019 release radiates quality.

Bergamot and mandarin introduce citric sunniness to the composition. It’s fresh and on the right side of sweetness. Jasmine (intense and heady) is partnered with beautifully rendered orange blossom (honeyed and sensual). Their indolic character is given sparkle ’n shine with the synthetic Ambroxan. Patchouli and moss balance the slight sweetness with earthiness.

Uplifting stuff!

Thameen Royal Sapphire Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN CULLINAN DIAMOND EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

When a fragrance is named after the world’s largest rough diamond, it needs to be an impressively grand affair. And that’s exactly what this 2021 release does with elegant flair.

Starting with the bright spiciness of black pepper, it moves onto a suitably regal interpretation of the queen of florals (rose) laced with creamy vanilla and earthy orris. Skilful use of the rather fancy-sounding Cashmere Musk (FYI: a compound of synthetics and essential oils) brings it all together in a most sensual way.

It’s warm, it’s powdery, it’s slightly animalic. In fact, it’s rather lovely.

Thameen Cullinan Diamond Extrait de Parfum

THAMEEN BRAVI COLOGNE ELIXIR (BRUNO JOVANOVIC)

Christopher Chong joined Thameen in 2022 as their creative director. He’s been a busy boy collaborating with top perfumers on the Britologne Collection (Fanfare, Bohemian Infusion, Bravi) that debuted in 2023.

All three are well worth sniffing out if you want modern interpretations of the cologne style but with more oomph and elements of the unexpected. I’ll focus on Bravi here.

It begins innocently enough with lots of zesty ginger supported by the spicy freshness of bergamot and bitter orange. Things get more seductive as tuberose gets the honeyed and milky treatment. The white floral is prominent without being over-powering but is still not one for beginners. The softly caramel tones of tobacco mingle with creamy vanilla in the warm drydown.

I love the contrasts (fresh and warm, innocent and carnal, classic and contemporary) in this one.

Thameen Bravi Cologne Elixir

Thameen fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

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Memo Inverness EDP: An Interview With Brand Co-Founder John Molloy

Memo Inverness EDP - John Molloy

IMAGE: Memo.

It’s been a while since I gave a Memo fragrance my undivided attention. Not that the quality of the Paris-based niche brand has changed in any way. It’s just that there are so many more olfactory distractions nowadays. Memo Inverness EDP brought the company back into focus for me.

Memo Inverness EDP

After being initially contacted by the NYC PR, the arrangements for a bottle of Memo Inverness EDP made their way to Europe and then eventually the brand distributor in South Africa.

And why am I telling you this? Well, since its founding in 2007 by husband-and-wife team John and Clara Molloy, the French house has built an impressive travel-inspired fragrance business (the couple are also behind Hermetica and Floraïku). So the way Memo Inverness EDP made its way to me seems absolutely appropriate.

In this interview with John Molloy, we chat about the role of travel and how Memo Inverness EDP came to be. ***See my thoughts on this 2023 release after this interview.

Memo Inverness EDP - John Molloy

IMAGE: Memo.

Seems you’ve been travelling a lot recently. Where are you now?

Home! If Memo Paris is about travel, it doesn’t mean that we are always on the road. The destinations that inspire us are now mainly coming from dreams, books, paintings, souvenirs of family trips, world maps, pictures… as we consider perfume as a form of slow travel.

Today, when we travel, it is essentially to visit our partners, teams, stores, clients, followers or journalists abroad, to present our novelties, for special openings or events, to share our vision, talk with our strengths on the field, and learn from them to know how to make Memo Paris shine even more.

Memo Inverness EDP

With travel a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, how have you ensured Memo is different from other brands in that regard?

First, by following our intuition and our path. What we have been building for over 15 years has found its own way of expression. If you pay too much attention to what other people are doing, it paralyses you.

Of course, celebrating the world is as old as the world itself! But how you do it is key. By working with talented perfumers, beautiful ingredients and artists who bring their own vision to fragrances, we’ve come up with some truly unique creations.

Memo Eau de Memo EDP

You co-founded the company with your wife, Clara Molloy. Who does what in the couple equation?

We’re very complementary and it’s as if we’d met for the second time working together. She’s the creative mind, while I take care of the commercial side and the development of our brand worldwide. But, of course, we exchange a lot, trying to superimpose our visions, to make the right choices.

Memo Inverness EDP - Clara Molloy

IMAGE: Memo.

What was it about Inverness that made it such great inspiration for a perfume?

Clara had the idea of a Scottish destination and the name started it all. She loves words. It’s round, soft and mysterious all at once. We hear invention, eternity, endless. And the “-ness” ending is like a promise.

IMAGE OF LOCH NESS: Visit Scotland.

The area is also known for its whisky. Was that note ever a possibility in this composition?

It’s true that Scotland is famous for its whisky… and for Loch Ness. In fact, we preferred to take a step aside by choosing Inverness, a lesser-known destination, and working on a different idea for this composition, focusing on the intensity of the woods.

That said, another of our signature fragrances, Irish Leather [2013], includes essence of juniper berries, which are also used to make gin. We’ve already played this card in a certain way, and as we don’t want to repeat ourselves, we’ve chosen another type of ingredient for a composition that we want to be creative, bold and beautiful.

Memo Irish Leather EDP

Was it perfumer Nadège Le Garlantezec’s idea to use amyris oil in Memo Inverness edp?

Nadège had this desire for a refined, intense wood and we welcomed this proposal into the creative process, which is a moment of constant exchange and connection with the perfumer, to arrive at the dream composition.

Memo Inverness EDP - Nadège Le Garlantezec

This is her second creation for Memo (after Flåm, 2021). Why do you enjoy working with Nadège?

Because Flåm was a wonderful shared experience and we wanted to continue the journey together. Working faithfully, confidently and over the long term with our perfumers is one of our priorities.

Memo Flam EDP

IMAGE: Memo.

What’s next for Memo?

In 2024, the Cuirs Nomades collection will reveal new surprises, and we can’t wait to share them with you!

***MEMO INVERNESS EDP IMPRESSIONS

If you’ve heard fragrances being described as “dry” but had no idea what that meant, this perfume will explain it all for you. That feel permeates the scent from start to finish through a variety of woods (cedar, sandalwood, guaiac wood and, in particular, amyris).

Not as commonly used as the afore-mentioned ingredients but sharing characteristics with them, it’s easy to understand why perfumer Nadège Le Garlantezec highlighted amyris in her composition.

Memo Inverness EDP

She might describe the formula for Memo Inverness EDP as “bold and short”, but the material is allowed to reveal its complexity (from fresh and spicy to earthy) with support from balsamic cedarwood, creamy sandalwood and smoky guaiac wood. Mate absolute can be bitter and sharp; here it emphasises the foresty ambience with its herbal aromatics.

At first, Memo Inverness EDP didn’t seem particularly Scottish to me. With its namesake (the capital of the Scottish Highlands on the River Ness), I was expecting something more literal, damper, wetter, floral (it’s an addition to the brand’s flower-focused Fleurs Bohèmes Collection).

But the more I wear it, the more I’m appreciating the perfumer’s interpretation of the destination, especially the combo of its more smouldering aspects with the powderiness of orris butter.

Memo Inverness EDP

When I interviewed Clara Molloy several years ago for my blog, she said: ”All of our competitors that started when we launched have sold their companies. There are many brands and many more to come. I hope everyone will keep in mind that niche means high standards. Otherwise, there is no point in being niche.” Memo Inverness EDP affirms the company’s reputation for perfumes of quality and distinction.

Memo Inverness EDP is available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics and Arc Store. 

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Aurélien Guichard Interview: “I Want People To Understand What They’re Wearing”

Aurélien Guichard

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

Niche brands keep on coming, but Matiere Premiere has made more of an impact than most since its launch in 2019. Even before he founded his own company, Aurélien Guichard (he continues to produce scents for other brands as a perfumer at the Japanese flavour and fragrance corporation Takasago) was admired for creations such as:

+ Bond No 9 Chinatown EDP (2005)

+ Sean John Unforgivable EDT (2006)

+ Gucci Pour Homme EDT (2008)

+ John Galliano EDP (2008)

+ Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci EDP (2009)

+ Robert Piguet Casbah EDP (2012)

+ Versace Eros EDT (2012)

+ Trussardi My Name EDP (2013)

+ Narciso Rodriguez Narciso EDP (2014)

+ Michael Kors Wonderlust EDP (2016)

+ Zadig & Voltaire This is Him! EDT (2016)

+ Valentino Valentina Poudre EDP (2016)

+ Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016)

+ Issey Miyake L’Eau Majeure d’Issey EDT (2017)

+ Tom Ford Sole di Positano EDP (2017)

+ Giorgio Armani Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise EDP (2018)

Aurélien Guichard - Versace Eros EDT

Aurélien Guichard comes from a Grasse-based family with perfumery running through its veins. His grandparents grew roses and jasmine for the industry.

His father, Jean Guichard, winner of the inaugural Prix François Coty in 2000, created classics such as Cacharel LouLou EDP, Calvin Klein Obsession EDP and Hermès Concentré d’Orange Verte EDT.

Aurélien Guichard

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

So why do I rate Matiere Premiere so highly? The name of the company (French for “raw material”) says it all. From the product descriptions on the website – no flouncy, self-indulgent stories – to the scents, Aurélien Guichard lets his way with quality ingredients speak for themselves. The result: distinctive creations (some of them already genre bests) that offer excellent value for money.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Bois d'Ebene EDP

You come from a Grasse-based family that grew jasmine and roses for perfumers. Did you know at a young age that you wanted to become a perfumer? Or was there another career path you also considered?

I grew up in a family of perfumers. Almost everyone around me in my childhood was either a perfumer, a sculptor, or an artist, so I grew up with a beautiful vision and an aesthetic environment. Before I decided to pursue this profession, it was instructive and inspiring to witness both the joys and the sorrows of these creative fields.

If I hadn’t become a perfumer, I would have loved to be a professional athlete (if I had had the talent for it); my second passion was field hockey.

Overall, what has always interested me the most is working with people from different countries and horizons, whether through creation, sports, or professional collaborations.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Neroli Oranger EDP

Your father, Jean Guichard, was also a great perfumer. How did he influence you?

My father influenced me with his discipline, work ethic and vision of this profession. He saw perfumery more like poetry rather than an industry; he taught me quality is intricately tied to craftsmanship.

“My father he taught me quality is intricately tied to craftsmanship” – Aurélien Guichard 

Other people have also left their mark on me, particularly my grandparents, who instilled a love for the land and the gifts of nature in me. My mother, a sculptor, served as an example in believing in the power of my creative intuition.

Finally, all the people I have had the privilege to collaborate with over the years, especially the couturiers, have played a significant role in shaping my journey.

Jean Guichard

Where did you study?

I come from the south of France, but I grew up in Paris. I’ve always been drawn to expansive topics, which led me to pursue my studies abroad. I completed my university education in England and later studied the art of perfumery at the Givaudan Perfumery School in France. I felt the need to explore other cultures and work with people from different backgrounds and experiences.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Cologne Cedrat EDP

How did your fine fragrance career get going?

I was fortunate to begin my journey with people who believed in me. At the age of 23, right after graduating, I had the privilege of creating fragrances for Guerlain and Nina Ricci.

The essence of creation and the magic of it lie not only in crafting perfumes but also in the intuition of the brands that we, the perfumers, collaborate with. It’s important to trust young perfumers to compose fragrances for the big houses. It doesn’t happen so often these days.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella EDT

IMAGE: Guerlain.

Is there a perfume that has special significance for you and why?

Many perfumes have unique stories which make them special in my eyes. But Matiere Premiere Radical Rose is a dream come true to me: cultivating my own centifolia roses, extracting absolute from my flowers, incorporating the absolute into one of my formulas, and finally, bottling the creation under my own brand.

You launched Matiere Premiere in 2019 and have made a big impact already. Had you wanted to start your own company for a long time? Has it given you more creative freedom?

I have always felt a great sense of freedom, even when working for other brands. However, my desire to establish Matiere Premiere came from an aspiration to create a complete expression of my tastes and desires. At Matiere Premiere, I am both the perfumer and the artistic director, which allows me great freedom to bring my vision to life.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather EDP

One of the things I love about Matiere Premiere are the succinct, no-nonsense perfume descriptions on the website. Is that a deliberate approach to avoid the over-embellishment and elaborate stories?

That is exactly it. The goal is to present perfumes in a factual manner and share my olfactory intention in a minimalistic way, without embellishments. The concept of functionality is crucial in that sense. It’s important that there is a truthful connection between the narrative and the creation; I want people to understand what they’re wearing.

“The goal is to present perfumes in a factual manner and share my olfactory intention in a minimalistic way, without embellishments.” – Aurélien Guichard 

I compose Matiere Premiere fragrances with a round construction – creations are linear, instead of being built around top, heart and base notes. What you will smell immediately after spritzing effectively stays the same for hours on end.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Parisian Musc EDP

You have the distinction of being the only perfumer to own and produce his own rose centifolia on the family-owned farm in Grasse. Does that come with great responsibility?

Absolutely. In addition to roses, we also cultivate tuberose and have just begun lavandin in February 2023. This comes with a real sense of responsibility – running a flower farm is a complex and beautiful enterprise, as you work with nature every day. I have reconnected with families of workers that have collaborated with my family for generations.

And I have also decided to bring our farming activity into the future with organic farming techniques, so we are Ecocert certified. Finally, my goal as a farmer is to bring a sense of truth to my creations – it’s almost like adopting a more purist approach.

“My goal as a farmer is to bring a sense of truth to my creations – it’s almost like adopting a more purist approach.” – Aurélien Guichard 

Matiere Premiere French Flower EDP Tuberose

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

How is that rose centifolia featured in Matiere Premiere Radical Rose?

Radical Rose is the fragrance that contains the highest possible concentration of rose centifolia from the Grasse region. We really pushed it to a maximum. Overdosing on the rose meant I had to emphasise its positive facets while tempering any less desirable notes.

It was about maintaining richness and complexity, with luminous notes at the beginning – saffron and Jamaican pepper – and avoiding the slightly oldish facets of the rose. Which is why we chose the cistus note, which captures the scent of rose resin that lingers on your hands after harvesting rose centifolia.

Matiere Premiere Radical Rose EDP Centifolia Petals

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

While natural materials are central to Matiere Premiere, of course you also use synthetics such as Ambroxan… 

Matiere Premiere is a perfumery with a distinctive style. While each fragrance is unique, they share a common olfactory DNA.

I use an overdose of a natural ingredient which I then facet with either natural or synthetic elements. Both work equally, although the perfumes contain between 85% and 92% natural ingredients.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron EDP

I’m particularly enjoying the exuberance of Matiere Premiere French Flower. Anything unusual about its creation?

Working with a primary raw material often means that beautiful classics have already been created around it. Take Robert Piguet Fracas, for instance, a masterpiece. Hence, my challenge as perfumer is to offer something new and propel the fragrance into uncharted territory.

Tuberose-based perfumes often tend to be dark, black, opulent, almost dangerous. With French Flower, we took the opposite route: it’s a luminous, radiant and clear fragrance. What makes it almost unique in the world is that we use French tuberose and, of course, we are happy that it’s one that we grow ourselves. Olfactively speaking, French tuberose is enveloping, solar and expansive, while Indian tuberose is greener and harder.

The idea of French Flower was simple: to recreate the scent of our tuberose field at night. This is why I chose to combine two extractions of tuberoses, an absolute and an enfleurage, and no other white flower but a hint of orange blossom. It’s one of the most beautiful scents in the world – almost an olfactory shock.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere French Flower EDP

You’ve recently launched Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder. I see you sourced vanilla absolute from the Fair for Life agricultural programme in Madagascar. Why is responsible sourcing so important to you?

At Matiere Premiere, sourcing is my first act of creation. The quality of the perfume is linked to the sourcing in many ways. We always prioritise olfactive excellence, but we also consistently favour ethical and organic productions, striving to find the best producers providing the best quality.

The future of luxury lies in the access to high-quality raw materials. Ethical sourcing is the luxury of today and tomorrow.

(See my thoughts on Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder at the end of this interview.)

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP

How do you juggle your roles as perfumer at Takasago and founder-perfumer of Matiere Premiere?

I’ve found a balance between the two roles. When working at Takasago, it’s about being at the service of a brand and its creative universe — couturiers, marketing directors. When I work for Matiere Premiere, I work at the service of natural ingredients. These are two different approaches that I equally enjoy.

“When I work for Matiere Premiere, I work at the service of natural ingredients.” – Aurélien Guichard 

Additionally, I’m working on expanding our farm near Grasse. This gives me the opportunity to work in a totally different environment. Working in various contexts and locations around the world is a privilege, a chance to practise my craft in a completely free manner. If I feel free, fulfilled and happy, it’s also because I’m fortunate to work with fantastic teams.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP

At Matiere Premiere, my two incredible co-founders enable me to bring this project to life. At Takasago, I work with great teams in a very stimulating environment. Lastly, in the agricultural context, there’s this love of the soil, of nature, with passionate people working alongside me… I am very lucky.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Neroli Oranger EDP

***MATIERE PREMIERE VANILLA POWDER EDP IMPRESSIONS

Vanilla is a spice. In case you were in any doubt about that, Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder makes that point clear with sustainably sourced vanilla absolute from Madagascar at the heart of this 2023 release.

In this EDP, it’s also creamy and somewhat sweet without tipping over into obvious gourmand territory (although you might feel hungry while wearing it), with warm tropical undertones from coconut powder.

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP Vanilla Bundles

IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

If you pick up something slightly fresh and spicy that would be the trendy palo santo (sourced from Ecuador, Spanish for “holy wood” and used for its healing properties when burnt as incense) at work in the composition. It can be domineering, but Aurélien Guichard keeps it in the background to make the most of the richness of his star ingredient, with additional powderiness provided by white musks.

Aurélien Guichard - Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder EDP

The result is smooth, comfy, distinctive and a timely addition to a genre that’s always been a perfumery mainstay but is particularly popular now (Tom Ford Vanilla Sex, anyone?).

Matiere Premiere fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics.

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Alexis Grugeon Interview: “I Want A Signature, But I Also Want To Be Adaptable”

Alexis Grugeon

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

When he looks back at his life in the future, 2023 will be a landmark year for Alexis Grugeon. He got married and turned 30. And created two fragrances for Amouage, Search EDP and Opus XV King Blue EDP. In perfume-land, bagging creations for the Oman-based niche brand is a very big deal.

Alexis Grugeon - Amouage Search EDP

Of course, anyone who’s been following the trajectory of the perfumer will see that Alexis Grugeon is only just getting going, with the “wins” (industry-speak for successful briefs) below attesting to his abundant abilities:

+ Michael Kors Wonderlust Eau de Voyage EDP (2020)

+ Bath & Body Works Dahlia Fine Fragrance Mist (2020)

+ Avon Artisan Cherry Vetiver EDP (2020)

+ Nautica Midnight Voyage EDT (2020)

+ Ariana Grande R.E.M. EDP (2020)

+ Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Fresh EDT (2021)

+ Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Verdigris EDP (2021)

+ Lancôme La Nuit Trésor Dentelle de Roses EDP (2021)

+ Iman Love Memoir EDP (2021)

+ Mercedes-Benz Woman in Red EDP (2021)

+ Juicy Couture Oui Splash EDP (2021)

+ Cacharel Yes I Am Delicious EDP (2022)

Ariana Grande R.E.M. EDP

IMAGE: Ariana Grande Fragrances.

The boy from Beauvais has come a long way (apologies, couldn’t resist that rhyming opportunity). His love of all things olfactory started at a young age and was stimulated by visits to the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse, among other things. While some perfumers take an indirect route into the profession, Alexis Grugeon knew what he wanted and went for it with his customary determination.

Juicy Couture Oui Splash EDP

IMAGE: Juicy Couture.

Now based in New York, where he works for the Swiss fragrance and flavour company dsm-firmenich, there’s no doubt we’ll be hearing a lot more about Alexis Grugeon in the future.

In this interview, we chat about his colour blindness, working with Amouage and the importance of me-time.

Alexis Grugeon

IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Do you have any perfume memories from your childhood?

Yes, I have many scent memories from growing up in Beauvais, which is in the north of France, in the countryside. When I was younger, I loved going to the forest and smelling everything – the leaves, different types of woods and aromatic plants that I would find. As far as a specific perfume memory, my mom wore YSL Opium and Lolita Lempicka.

When I was eight years old, I discovered the métiers of perfumery through a trip to Grasse. From then on, every Christmas I would get a box of raw materials and have many memories of opening these in my bedroom to smell.

YSL Opium

IMAGE: Yves Saint Laurent.

Why did your visit to the Perfume Museum (Musée International de la Parfumerie) in Grasse make such an impression on you?

During this visit I learned about the different métiers of perfumery and it was then that I knew I wanted to become a perfumer – I just knew that I loved to smell things.

This was why my grandparents took me to the museum in the first place, and it was there that I met someone who walked me through the world of perfumery. I also discovered literature that focused on perfumery and so I read and learned a lot about the industry over the next few years.

Musée International de la Parfumerie

IMAGE: Musée International de la Parfumerie.

What did you enjoy most about your studies at École Supérieure du Parfum?

Right after high school I went to study there and it allowed me to continue exploring this industry. We spent a lot of our time smelling and creating – the highlight of my time there.

We covered all the different facets from creation to marketing. This gave me a good overview and provided all the tools to see what position would be the best fit.

“The networking aspect was key because I now know so many people in the industry both on the fragrance house and brand side.” – Alexis Grugeon

Additionally, the networking aspect of my time there was key because I now know so many people in the industry both on the fragrance house and brand side.

What was your first fine fragrance creation? Your thoughts on it now?

L’Homme Emanuel Ungaro EDT [2018] started from an accord that I did for myself with orris and some lavender. Very sexy, with a masculine background of leather and woods.

When I smell it now, sure, there are things I could change, but I always think that the fact that it started from an accord that I personally loved so much makes it special to me.

L'Homme Emanuel Ungaro EDT

IMAGE: Emanuel Ungaro.

In your bio on the dsm-firmenich website, you say your colour blindness has turned out to be an advantage. It couldn’t have been easy growing up with it, though…

Believe it or not, it’s easy to grow up with colour blindness because you are so young that by the time you discover it, you don’t know your world any other way.

For me, when a kid is colour blind and they hear a colour but it is not what they see, they almost work backwards to learn and recognise the colours they see, rather than the other way around, which is how others would learn them. I also do feel I have heightened sense of smell because of it.

“There is a parallel between this way of learning colours and smelling raw materials.” – Alexis Grugeon

There is a parallel between this way of learning colours and smelling raw materials because when you smell something it is subjective. You may not know right away what you are smelling in the blind – even if you know it – and you have to work backwards to think and link it to what it is.

Alexis Grugeon - Amouage Search EDP

Did you meet creative director Renaud Salmon during the creation process for Amouage Search and Amouage Opus XV King Blue? If so, please describe the collaboration process with him.

Yes, I met with him a couple of times. The collaboration is great because Renaud gives an overall concept of what he would like to achieve with the fragrance or collection he is looking to create.

For Search, he pictured something like a dark sky during a thunderstorm and so I had to find a way to represent this in a fragrance. That was what the smokiness in the scent represents to me and I paired it with the dark side of black lemon to find the right balance of all the elements to create the perfect storm.

For King Blue, he wanted an oud that was more modern and different with a very opposed and unique contrast like oud and orange. This was how I came to having a burst of mandarin and amber together with the oud and finding the right amount of oud because he also wanted it to be strong and powerful.

Alexis Grugeon - Amouage Opus XV King Blue EDP

Did you feel any pressure or doubts creating fragrances for such a highly regarded brand?

With Renaud, it is such an enjoyable creation process because he has such strong, great ideas as to what he wants, but he allows me to create my interpretation of that vision and so it’s a nice balance. I am inspired to give my all and do my best to ensure we capture the fragrance he envisioned.

Alexis Grugeon

TALKING AMOUAGE: Renaud Salmon and Alexis Grugeon at ScentXplore in New York City. IMAGE: dsm-firmenich.

Will you be working on more Amouage creations?

I love working with the brand, so hopefully there will be more to come.

What can you tell us about what you’re working on now?

I am fortunate to work in the New York office, the global hub for dsm-firmenich, so I get to work on local brands for North America, in addition to working with global brands from France to Brazil to the Middle East. All that to say, I have several projects in the works that I am happy to share once they have launched.

Your career is on the up. Would you say you have a fragrance signature yet, or is that still a work in progress?

I am starting to define a signature, for sure, but also what I admire in master perfumers is that they constantly reinvent themselves.

“What I admire in master perfumers is that they constantly reinvent themselves.” – Alexis Grugeon

I want a signature, of course, but I also want to be flexible and adaptable. Fortunately, I have been exposed to many clients in fine fragrance and so there is a signature that comes organically from working and creating for these types of brands.

Lancôme La Nuit Trésor Dentelle de Roses EDP

IMAGE: Lancôme.

It seems you’re quite the fitness enthusiast. Are you able to give the time you want to these passions? Or do deadlines sometimes have to come first?

Work always comes first, because I love what I do and because I am constantly smelling, so I want to ensure that all deadlines are met and that what I submit is strong and my best.

With that, it is important to give time to my other passions such as running. This allows time to just take care of me and my body and disconnect for a bit to observe and take in everything that is around me.

Part of the métier of perfumery is to be competitive, so it is important to keep this competition healthy at work. In both sports and fragrance my main thing is to always push myself to the extreme.

Amouage Search EDP and Amouage Opus XV King Blue EDP are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

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Puredistance Papilio: A Tale Of Synchronicity

Puredistance Papilio

[Will be doing this Puredistance Papilio post differently. Hope it’s indulgent, rather than self-indulgent.

Visual treatment note: In line with the brand’s policy of minimising waste, I’ve deliberately used the bubble wrap the goods arrived in.]

Niche ain’t what it used to be. That will come as no surprise to you. No need to mention any names but so many brands are increasingly corporate in their approach.

Puredistance Papilio

I’ve wanted to try Puredistance for a long time and got the opportunity when fellow blogger Undina recommended me to the Dutch company (based in the city of Groningen, away from all the hoopla) as part of their PR activities around their latest launch, Puredistance Papilio.

The way I was contacted by brand founder / creative director Jan Ewoud Vos – personal and direct – made an impression from the start. Then the box of goods arrived.

Puredistance Card

It took me a couple of weeks to open and explore it all. I read the book The Story of Puredistance 2002-2022 (written by former blogger Birgit Oeckher of Olfactoria’s Travels fame) until I was ready to try Puredistance Papilio. This passage from the book sums up the Puredistance way rather nicely:

Puredistance Book Extract

I held back on wearing Puredistance Papilio. It arrived at a time when I’ve been struggling with my feelings about another year whizzing by, auditing my achievements  and questioning whether I should continue this blogging thing. (FYI: I do this annually around this time in my own reverse version of seasonal affective disorder.)

The Story of Puredistance Book

One inner voice telling me: “Get on with it, Richard. You need to get this post done. Don’t keep them waiting when they’ve been so kind to send you all these beautiful things.”

Puredistance Bedtime Reading

IN THE SHADOWS: Me reading The Story of Puredistance 2002-2022.

None of which helps matters, of course. So I told myself to take all the time I need to experience Puredistance Papilio. After all, part of the house’s ethos since its debut launch in 2007 has been about slowing down to enjoy the beauty in our world. I also decided not to obsess about notes and ingredients.

A zing of invigorating citric freshness at first.

From high intensity to the lower warm hum of something altogether more intriguing.

Not what I was expecting. But then what I was expecting?

Is that sensual leather?

Florals coming through. Not overpowering or heady variety. No need for performance fascism here.

Warmer and warmer. I can feel my skin almost glowing.

Muskiness in various forms in the drydown, yet those florals (lots of powderiness) keep coming back, as if adding colours.

Beautifully blended without any domineering aspects but each time I wear it (mostly at bedtime), I’m captivated by another aspect.  

Puredistance Papilio Box

Now’s a good time to mention the inspiration for the scent (and I paraphrase from the press release here). Embrace your true nature, as a butterfly would through its various stages of metamorphosis (egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, butterfly).

Puredistance Notebook

How powerful is that. This verse from the poem written by Jan Ewoud that accompanies the perfume especially struck a chord with me. No wonder Nathalie Feisthauer (the independent Paris-based perfumer also created the 2021 release Puredistance No. 12) had tears in her eyes when Jan Ewoud discussed the idea of Puredistance Papilio with her.

Puredistance Papilio Inspiration

The best kind of fragrances should make you feel something. And Puredistance Papilio certainly does that for me in ways that many others haven’t. While self-proclaimed Buddhist Jan Ewoud might see some of my emotions and my identification with the processes of change as attachment and projection, I can’t help feeling that the gifting of this perfume isn’t a mere coincidence. Whether I’m stuck in the chrysalis or liberated in the butterfly stage, that’s another story completely.

Puredistance Papilio

If niche is about absolute quality (ingredients, parfum concentration, collaborations with top perfumers), creativity, limited distribution (less than 100 retailers globally), personal connection, exclusivity and not being part of mindless more, more consumerism, Puredistance gets it so right.

Puredistance Papilio (25% pure parfum) is available in three sizes: 17.5ml spray, 60ml flacon and 100ml flacon (with a leather holder) from selected retailers worldwide.

Puredistance The Magnificent XII Collection

Puredistance Papilio joins The Magnificent XII Collection. There are always 12 fragrances in the range, but the one that sells the least is removed from distribution (but still available from the company directly as part of its “Private Collection”) to make way for the new arrival.

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Gabriela Chelariu Interview: “Perfumery Is Not A Career Where There Is A Ladder That One Ascends, But Rather A Career Of Storytelling Through Every Creation”

Gabriela Chelariu

IMAGE: Firmenich.

You don’t have to be a perfumer geek to know there aren’t many perfumers from Romania. While her heritage makes her unusual in the industry and has given her a different perspective, ultimately that isn’t what makes Gabriela Chelariu stand out. It’s the quality and consistency of her work expressed in the creations below:

+ Jennifer Lopez JLo Glow After Dark EDT (2006)

+ Michael Kors Sparkling Blush EDP (2018)

+ All Saints Sunset Riot EDP (2018)

+ Avon Velvet EDP (2018)

+ Bath & Body Works You’re The One EDT (2020)

+ Nest Sunkissed Hibiscus EDP (2020)

+ Dolly Parton Dolly: Scent From Above EDP (2021)

+ Escada Summer Festival EDP (2021)

+ Ralph Lauren Romance Parfum (2021)

+ Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDP (2022)

+ Guess Vita Bella Rosa EDT (2022)

Avon Velvet EDP

IMAGE: Avon.

And then there all her super-popular creations for United Arab Emirates-based brand Kayali: Kayali Vanilla 28 EDP (2018), Kayali Déjà Vu White Flower 57 EDP (2020), Kayali Eden Juicy Apple 01 EDP (2021), Kayali Sweet Diamond Pink Pepper 25 EDP (2021), Kayali Utopia Vanilla Coco 21 EDP (2021), Kayali Lovefest Burning Cherry 48 EDP (2022) and Kayali The Wedding Silk Santal 36 EDP (2023).

Gabriela Chelariu - Kayali Sweet Diamond Pink Pepper 25 EDP

Perfumery wasn’t the first career choice of Gabriela Chelariu. Originally, she had her mind set on pharmacy but when she was exposed to the world of fragrance ingredients that would eventually take her to New York, where she currently works for the Swiss flavour and fragrance company Firmenich.

In this interview we chat about the allure of ingredients, working with Dolly Parton and the creation of Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDP.

Dolly Parton

IMAGE: dollyfragrance.com

When you’re not working, what kind of fragrances do you like to wear? Any particular favourites?

When I am not working, I find myself reaching for the same fragrance most of the time, a fragrance that is centred around clean orange flower, ambrette seed, Ambrox (a very diffusive and long-lasting ambery woody molecule) and musk. It has a lot of signature, clarity and creates a long-lasting aura without being overwhelming.

I like luminous woody textures built around amber woods, vetiver and cedar that have verticality, so I can smell the woods right from the top and continuously as I wear it. The fragrances I like to wear all have clean warmth, but not to be confused with fresh.

There are creations I do for myself but sometimes they find their way into projects. One is going to be launched next year but since it is not yet announced, I can’t disclose it at this time.

Gabriela Chelariu

IMAGE: Firmenich.

You originally studied to become a pharmacist and then discovered the world of aroma-chemicals. Briefly, tell us how your career evolved from there.  

In my last year of studying pharmacy, I discovered the world of aroma-molecules and this opportunity opened the door into the fascinating world of fragrances.

Soon afterwards, I visited Grasse, where I discovered the other extraordinary dimensions of perfumery, such as natural ingredients and their journey from the beautiful flowers, vibrant herbs and earthy roots into clear essences, unctuous absolutes and resins.

“I discovered the  journey of beautiful flowers, vibrant herbs and earthy roots into clear essences, unctuous absolutes and resins.” – Gabriela Chelariu

That is where I decided I wanted to become a perfumer. I started studying on my own and found a long-distance course offered by IFEAT (the International Federation of Essential Oils and Aroma Trades) in collaboration with Plymouth University. After I moved to the US in 2000, I started as a perfumer assistant at Fragrance Resources and where I began the training to become a perfumer.

It might sound simpler than it was, but that after years of working late nights in the lab studying fragrance ingredients, creating accords and finished fragrances, I look back and it was quite a lengthy process. It was not always easy but being where I am today and being able to live my dream made it all worth it.

My career evolved with every fragrance I created since then, whether they launched or not. It’s not a career where there is a ladder that one ascends, but rather a career of storytelling through every creation and I am always on a journey. I love the process.

Gabriela Chelariu - Guess Bella Vita Rosa EDT

What was your fine fragrance debut? Your thoughts on it now? 

It was Pink Pearls EDP by Lulu Guinness (2005), quite a playful, easy and optimistic fragrance that I created around pink grapefruit, orange blossom, apricot, clean musk and comforting fluffy woods.

With the spirit of a new beginning when everything is bright, hopeful and innocent, it was very much a reflection of where I was in my career and my mindset at that time. I wouldn’t change anything about it now, but I can see how it was a creation of my younger self.

Gabriela Chelariu - Lulu Guinness Pink Pearls EDP

IMAGE: Lulu Guinness.

There can’t be that many Romanian perfumers (please correct me if I’m wrong). Has that given you something different to offer?

Yes, indeed there are not many Romanian perfumers and certainly there is no tradition in Romania of fragrance creation. To add to this, I grew up far from the world of traditional fine fragrance, due to the political realities of that time in the country, but also the material conditions in which I grew up.

“I grew up in a rich world of fragrances, but they were the fragrances of the natural world and the daily life in Romania.” – Gabriela Chelariu 

That said, I grew up in a rich world of fragrances, but they were the fragrances of the natural world and the daily life in Romania. I was always connected to smells in my life in a profound way. Smells were signalling the arrival of a new season and to this day, there are smells that to me signal the arrival of spring, fall or winter. The summers smelled like tomato leaves, the end of school smelled like blooming linden, the month of May smelled like peony and February like freesia. My grandmother taught me the names of all the plants around us and their scents reinforced those names.

My experience growing up in Romania gave me a point of view in the fragrance world that is indeed a bit different because I approach perfume from a natural and experiential place, and that plays an important role in all my creations.

Escada Summer Festival EDP

IMAGE: Escada.

How do you like to work? And how do you start each perfume project?

I can’t say I have one method of working, because every project is different.

When creating new accords outside of a specific project it is the same. It can either happen methodically if I have a particular intention in mind, or serendipitously because I encountered something that moved me and I wanted to capture it in a fragrance, even if I don’t have an idea yet for where it will go.

When working on a specific fragrance project, I like to start with the story that this fragrance is trying to evoke. Who is the person who is going to wear it? What is the feeling it is going to create within that person? I like to create a universe that is going to give the inspiration for the structure, the ingredients, the accords and the textures I want to play with.

Nest Sunkissed Hibiscus EDP

IMAGE: Nest.

Do you enjoy the process of competing for briefs?

Competing for briefs is enjoyable mostly when you win them, of course. The competition we, as perfumers, are involved in is winner takes all, so there is little consolation when we lose a project. Every project is a competition with oneself as much as a competition with others, and I am fully engaged and always enthusiastic to tackle a new challenge.

“The competition we are involved in is winner takes all, so there is little consolation when we lose a project.” – Gabriela Chelariu 

The ultimate goal is to create the best possible fragrance that fits the project and when all is said and done, knowing that I did my best no matter the outcome. It’s a tough process sometimes, but the desire to create a fragrance that will touch people’s lives is stronger.

Michael Kors Sparkling Blush EDP

IMAGE: Michael Kors.

Working with Dolly Parton on her debut fragrance, Scent From Above EDP (2021), must have been a fun experience…

Dolly Parton is one of the most gracious people I have worked with. Although I’ve never met her in person, she was deeply involved in developing the fragrance and was precise in what she wanted this fragrance to be.

I refined it until she found the signature she envisioned. I remember every time she wanted another adjustment, she always apologised thinking that she is too demanding. She is very considerate and has a lot of respect for the creative process, being a creative force herself.

Gabriela Chelariu - Dolly Parton Dolly Scent From Above EDP

IMAGE: dollyfragrances.com

Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDP is a 2022 creation of yours. Did you consult your colleague Alberto Morillas (who co-created the original CK One EDT)? What else can you tell us about its creation?

Although a creation started by me, it ended up as a collaboration with Alberto Morillas and Frank Voelkl.

Of course, it was a great honour to work with Alberto, the creator of such an iconic fragrance, and his contribution was key in maintaining the DNA of the brand while evolving it for today’s youth.

The way we worked together was seamless. The last modification liked by the CK team would be passed to each of us and we would each add our individual take, and so on in the next round. This is why the final version weaves in all our ideas in a harmonious way.

Gabriela Chelariu - Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDP

Kayali The Wedding Silk Santal 36 EDP (2023) isn’t the first fragrance you’ve created for the brand. How would you describe the creative process with founder Mona Kattan?

I’ve worked with Mona Kattan from the inception of Kayali [Kayali Vanilla 28 EDP, 2018). This was an illuminating and unique experience as a perfumer because it gave me the opportunity to participate first-hand in the process of building the brand.

Mona is deeply involved in the co-creation process, and from the beginning of every brief, she has a strong sense of where she wants the creation to go. Throughout the process of co-creation, she’ll narrow down to the ideas she feels fit the best and then we start fully developing and finessing the fragrances to reach the final version. This phase of the project can sometimes take quite a long time. It is very important that the fragrance is the best it can be for the vision she has for it.

By working together from the beginning of the brand we have developed a strong relationship based on trust and a common understanding of olfactive language.

Gabriela Chelariu - Kayali Vanilla 28 EDP

What project have you just finished that you can tell us about?

I wish I could share that with you but it is client prerogative to be the first to announce a fragrance launch, so that is a trust I cannot break.

What gets you through a stressful period?

Being in nature and working with plants in the garden gets me through stressful periods. I love hiking and am always in awe of how incredible and resilient nature is. It gives me a lot of energy and optimism.

“One cannot rush nature and we must let it run its course. This is also somehow true with fragrances.” – Gabriela Chelariu

Tending to flowers and seeing them grow from seeds into majestic blooms is another way to leave the stress behind. It is also a lesson in patience – one cannot rush nature and we must let it run its course. This is also somehow true with fragrances.

Kayali fragrances are available in South Africa from Arc Store, Guess Vita Bella Rosa EDT and Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDP from Dis-Chem.