Welcome to the first edition of Fragrance News Snippets for 2019. Perfume-land never sleeps and the first launches of the year are already on the shelves. The Fragrance News Snippets I have included in this edition tell us a lot about the state of the fragrance industry. It’s all about flankers galore, gender fluidity and upmarket fragrance collections on the market.
If you come across anything news-worthy you’d like to contribute to Fragrance News Snippets, please pop me a mail at rpgoller@gmail.com.An
IMAGE: FRANCISKURKDJIAN.COM
PERFUMER JEAN-FRANCOIS LATTY DIES
Jean-François Latty died in early January 2019. The veteran perfumer was best known for creating Givenchy III, YSL Jazz EDT and all of the fragrances for French niche brand, Téo Cabanel. He trained at Roure Bertrand Fils and Justin Dupont’s in-house perfumery school. Latty then worked for Roure, IFF and Takasago.
One of the first fragrances on the market for 2019 is Armani Code Absolu EDP. It’s the 16th flanker and/or limited edition in the Armani Code range, which was originally launched in 2004. Created by Antoine Maisondieu, it features notes of green mandarin, apple, orange blossom, nutmeg, carrot seeds suede, tonka beans, vanilla and woods. I haven’t had the opportunity to try this fragrance yet, so I can’t tell you if it’s a worthwhile purchase or just another churned-out flanker.
IMAGE: FRAGRANTICA.COM
NEW ADDITION TO THE YSL BLACK OPIUM LINE
And in another flanker episode, YSL launched Black Opium Intense this month. Black Opium was originally launched in 2014 and the line now includes 16 flankers and limited editions. The new EDP features notes of blue absinthe, boysenberry, jasmine sambac, orange blossom, black coffee, sandalwood, liquorice and vanilla. It was created by Nathalie Lorson, Olivier Cresp, Marie Salamagne and Honorine Blanc.
Gucci has gone seriously upmarket with the launch of the Alchemist’s Garden “inspired by the art of alchemy influencing the old art of fragrance-making”. The collection is another collaboration between the Italian luxury brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas. It consists of seven eaux de parfum, four perfumed oils, three acque profumate and a scented candle. With a nod to the trends for layering and customisation, the entire collection ensures 48 possible fragrance combinations.
Whether you call them unisex, shared, or (the clunky) gender neutral, they’ve been a growing trend in perfumery (although designer fragrances still have a lot of catching up to do). In an innovative twist, Maison Francis Kurkdjian has launched a duo of unisex fragrances: Gentle fluidity EDP (silver edition) and gentle Fluidity EDP (gold edition). They both have a focus on the same notes – juniper berries, nutmeg, coriander, musks, ambery woods and vanilla – but are treated differently. An intriguing Fragrance News Snippet…
I’d never heard of Mincer Pharma until recently when I started spotting it on Instagram. I’m vain enough to take care of my skin as I approach 50, so I was keen to try this Polish pharmacy skincare brand.
“I’m vain enough to take care of my skin as I approach 50, so I was keen to try this Polish pharmacy skincare brand.”
Mincer Pharma has an impressive selection of product ranges. These include Oxygen Detox, Vitamins Philosophy, Vita C Infusion, Antiallergenic, Antitiredness, Daily Care, Hyaluron, Folic Acid and Argan Life.
I was sent two products from the Neo Hyaluron line for dehydrated, mature skin: Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream. Both are packed with anti-ageing hyaluronic acid goodies.
WHY HYALURONIC ACID IS SO IMPORTANT
The Mincer Pharma website gives a good explanation why this active ingredient is so important in the fight against ageing:
Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in all living organisms. In humans it is responsible, among others, for proper hydration and firming the skin. Spectacular effects of hyaluronic acid result from the fact that it has very strong properties of bonding collagen fibres and of binding water molecules, thus enhancing firmness and nourishment of the skin. Hyaluronic acid is not only acting deep in the skin, but it also forms a protective coating that prevents loss of moisture.Unfortunately, with age it decreases in our tissues.
Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10 and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream contain a quartet of hyaluronic acid active ingredients for deep hydration and rejuvenation: cross-linked hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid microspheres, pillar hyaluronic acid and molecular hyaluronic acid.
I have used these products for more than a month and have already starting seeing results. My skin looks fresher and firmer, definitely more hydrated and (I like to think) the wrinkles are looking a tad less noticeable. These results are all the more impressive when I consider that we’ve been having a relentless heatwave here in Johannesburg for quite some time.
Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Strongly Firming Day Cream SPF10, R260 for 50ml, and Mincer Pharma Neo Hyaluron Intensive Reconstructing Night Cream, R260 for 50ml.
For one of the major players in the luxury goods industry, Louis Vuitton’s fragrance releases have not been part of the churn-‘em-out philosophy so prevalent in the designer fragrance category. The company launched its first fragrances in the 1920s and 1940s and then not much else. That’s why the launch of the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection in 2016 was such a big deal.
In a way, the brand had a lot of catching up to do, when compared to its contemporaries. But as a luxury brand that places a premium on attention to detail and craftsmanship, it could not appear like it was in a hurry to do so.
The Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection was launched with seven EDPs for women. These included: Apogée, Contre Moi, Dans la Peau, Matière Noire, Mille Feux, Rose des Vents and Turbulences. Since then the following EDPs have been added to the range: Au Hasard, L’Immensité, Nouveau Monde, Orage and Sur la Route (all for men); Attrape-Rivesand Le Jour Se Lève (for women); and Ombre Nomade (for men and women).
All of these fragrances are created by Louis Vuitton’s in house perfumer, the legendary Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. He has created Pasha de Cartier EDT, Issey Miyake l’eau d’Issey EDT, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDT, Van Cleef & Arpels Zanzibar EDT, among others.
IT’S ALL ABOUT SERVICE AND THE EXPERIENCE
When I first stepped into the Louis Vuitton store in Sandton City, Johannesburg, I was immediately impressed by the professionalism of the staff. Although I didn’t look I was there to shop, shop, shop, they all treated me with respect and attention.
AT MY SERVICE: Fragrance manager Marco Matthews writing down all of the names of the Louis Vuitton fragrances on the blotting cards.
I was particularly impressed by the service I received from fragrance manager, Marco Matthews. He gave me over half an hour of his precious time to talk me through the various fragrances in the collection. A personalised consultation is standard for all shoppers.
“Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience.”
It was abundantly clear from what he told me that Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection are not just fragrances – they are a luxury experience. And I certainly felt that while trying the various scents on offer.
BAG OF SAMPLE TRICKS: I was given a set of samples from Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Collection to try at home.
I enjoyed all the fragrances I tried. For a brand that is often associated with conspicuous consumption and logo-a-go-go, the fragrances are notable for their discreet elegance. Also look out for the travel cases and sets.
My favourite would have to be Orage EDP. It opens with citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit. But it’s the play between the iris, vetiver, white musk, hedione and ISO E Super that make it really intriguing.
Louis Vuitton, Sandton City Shopping Centre, Shop U26, Upper Level, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 784 9854.
I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.
IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA
Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.
UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.
What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?
Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.
“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”
BLOODBELL HEATH
How did you get involved?
I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.
When did you arrive in Cape Town?
April 2017.
How long did you spend in the city?
Nine days.
GOLDEN PAGODA
What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?
Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.
IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING
What did you actually discover?
That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.
ERICA TAXIFOLIA
Who helped you make these discoveries?
I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.
COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.
Do many South Africans know about these plants?
This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]
“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”
The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.
It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.
Will the fragrances be available commercially?
These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.
MONA LAVENDER
What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?
This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.
ALOE ARBORESCENS
What perfume project are you working on now?
I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!
*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan.
So you’ve spent more than you should have at Christmas. Or you are scaling back on your expenses and something has to give. But dealing with these financial realities doesn’t mean you have to compromise on smelling good. With this selection of best budget buys fragrances, for example, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.
“With this list of best budget buys fragrances, it’s possible to spend way less than you would normally do and still stand out for your fragrance finesse.”
Of course, you can also keep your eyes on bargain bins, where sometimes incredible deals are to be had. And don’t forget sales where 20-50% discounts are not uncommon.
NO 4711 Original EDC
This bargain fragrance is apparently still made according to a secret recipe from the late 18th century (yes, it’s been around that long). While 4711 Original Eau de Cologne lacks staying power, it more than compensates with its uplifting mix of lemon, bergamot and orange oil. More than a fragrance, it’s a superb pick-me-up tonic. R235 for 90ml and R575 for 200ml.
The Body Shop Activist EDt
This one has been around for over 23 years – and for good reason. A light oriental with a clean, fresh vibe, it features standout notes of green grass, citruses, amber, spices and woody notes. It doesn’t have the most impressive staying power and projection, but at the price, a couple of re-sprays is not a problem at all. While you’re in The Body Shop mode, look out for White Musk. It’s a highly rate Body Shop classic that features notes of lavender, jasmine, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and, course, musk. R320 for 100ml.
Giorgio Beverly Hills edt (ML Quince, Francis Camail, Harrry Cuttle)
I’ve never been shopping on Hollywood’s Rodeo Drive in a Rolls-Royce with the top down, but this classic from the 80s would be the perfect choice for it. It’s such a happy, carefree, almost hedonistic scent. This floral features standout heart notes such as tuberose, gardenia, orchid and ylang-ylang. After all that spending, champagne is so necessary. R599 for 90ml.
RODEO DRIVE, HERE WE COME: Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is one of the best budget fragrance buys from the 80s.
Rogue Love by Rihanna EDP
Rihanna has amassed quite a respectable fragrance portfolio and word is that she’s more involved in the creation of her scents than the average celeb. Her fragrances, while not in any way revolutionary, certainly deserve consideration if you’re on the hunt for budget fragrance buys. Rogue Love is a very appealing scent with fruity, floral, musky overtones. It features big hits of plum, suede, patchouli and vanilla notes. Like most celebrity fragrances, it’s sweet, but it’s handled smoothly and sophisticatedly in this EDP. R620 for 125ml.
Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT
A seemingly simple composition of tobacco, coconut, sandalwood, honey and cedar notes, it yields so much more than its structure suggests. It’s on the sweeter side of things, but who cares when this EDT is so smooth and creamy. Zara has numerous examples of cool cheapies like it, so it would be time well spent to visit your local store or the website for more options.
Elizabeth Taylor Love & White Diamonds edt (Carlos Benaïm)
I recently reviewed Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds as a classic powerhouse (read here). A flanker, Love & White Diamonds is inspired by the actor’s passion for flowers and diamonds. It features a citrus twist on the original, with opening notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and neroli. The heart is all floral and features notes of gardenia, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac and tuberose. Although not as complex as the original, it earns its spot on this best budget fragrance buys list for its charm and longevity. R750 for 100ml.
Jeanne Arthes Cobra Man EDT
There’s more complexity to this woody-aromatic fragrance than its price tag suggests. It opens with notes of citrus, orange blossom and rosemary. The heart is quite unusual and features notes of ginger and angelica among the more familiar cinnamon and lavender. The base is warm and cosy, with notes of sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla bringing smoothness. Jean Arthes is a French fragrance company that’s based in Grasse, the heartland of French perfumery. Another option from the brand well worth sniffing out is the leather-licious Colonial Club Legend EDT. R209 for 100ml.
Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDt (Carlos Benaïm)
Originally launched in 1989 (and now with five flankers), Elizabeth Arden Red Door EDT is still one of the company’s best-sellers. Sweet and complex at the same time, it features over 20 listed notes. The sweetness comes through from the beginning, courtesy of peach and plum notes. But it’s really the honey and abundance of floral notes (carnation, tuberose, orchid, violet, rose, freesia, lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang and heliotrope) that makes this EDP such a sweet and agreeable bouquet, depending on your preferences. R750 for 100ml.
We all know that perfumery is an art, but what about the other art of fragrance? That is, creating arty images from fragrance bottles. In this more visually led art of fragrance post, I will share some of my examples with you.
“In this more visually led art of fragrance post, I will share some of my examples with you.”
When I’m in the art of fragrance mode, I want my images to really have an impact. Often these have quite an emotional impact, as I take great pleasure in breaking empty perfume bottles and seeing people’s reaction to them. I’ve also been trying an art of fragrance technique on my computer scanner, with intriguing results.
A SMASHING TIME
In a previous lifetime this was a bottle of Armani’s mega-seller, Acqua di Gio EDT. I smashed the bottle and shot it against a very clinical metallic service (that is, the kitchen sink). For extra coolness, I added some ice cubes.
GREEN ENERGY
I had to think a lot about smashing this bottle of the Hermès classic, Concentre d’Orange Verte EDT. Eventually I gathered the courage to do the deed. I placed the pieces on one of my own pastel colour therapy works.
SAMPLE SCAN 1
I find samples very hard to shoot in an interesting way. So for this collection, I decided to place them on the computer scanner intermingled with some flowers and leaves.
ART OF FRAGRANCE: Sample Sunday style.
SAMPLE SCAN 2
After smashing this bottle of Paul Smith EDT, I scatted various pieces on the scanner. I then placed some flowers to add interest to the effect.
RECONSTRUCTION
I noticed I had two beautiful bottles (Hermès Concentre d’Orange Verte EDT and Armani Acqua di Gio EDT) smashed mostly beyond recognition. So the only thing to do was to create a fusion of the two. This is very much a work in progress. I plan to do a bigger piece with a number of smashed bottles.
I first started chatting to perfumer Caroline Sabas a couple of months ago on Instagram when I inadvertently didn’t credit her contribution to the creation of Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP. Since then I’ve been wanting to interview the 44-year-old who has created a very diverse selection of fragrances over the years. These range from Etat Libre d’Orange You Or Someone Like You EDP, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT and Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP to Rihanna Reb’l Fleur EDP and Commodity Vetiver EDP.
Caroline Sabas grew up in the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse. Her perfumer father had a big influence on her decision to pursue the career she says she was “born into”.
In this interview, I asked Caroline Sabas questions about her work, her ultimate ambition and her favourite ingredient to work with, among others.
Where were you born?
I was born in Cannes, France, and grew up in Grasse.
Where did you study perfumery?
I studied at ISIPCA in Versailles and my apprenticeship while in school was at Chanel.
Where are you based now?
I moved to NYC a year after I finished ISIPCA, which is 21 years ago. I’ve been working at Givaudan New York for 15 years now. I love New York. It has such a great vibe and so much energy.
SUMMER EFFECT: Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT is one of the fragrances created by Caroline Sabas.
When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?
As I lived in Grasse and my father was a perfumer, I can say that I was born into it. Growing up surrounded by all those amazing naturals, such as mimosa, jasmine, honeysuckle, rose, moss, just to name a few, made me aware at a very young age that my nose was a great asset. I’ve always been sensitive to smells around me and they always provoked in me a lot of emotions. Then when I was 16, I stepped into the lab of my father’s company. Working with all those gorgeous materials was like a dream. I felt like a chef or a painter. From that moment on I knew this was exactly what I wanted to do.
“Working with all those gorgeous materials was like a dream. I felt like a chef or a painter.”
What do you remember most about studying perfumery?
I loved smelling and having to memorise olfactively bothnatural and synthetic ingredients. Learning about the classics and how they had been created. It’s such a fascinating world and I couldn’t wait to be part of it.
FRAGRANCES FOR EVERYONE: “I do not want to be labelled as a certain type of perfumer. Therefore, I work on everything…. mass, prestige, celebrities, designers, niche, women’s, men’s,” says Caroline Sabas.
What’s your ultimate ambition as a perfumer?
I would like to be able to create fragrances for absolutely everyone. I do not want to be labelled as a certain type of perfumer. Therefore, I work on everything…. mass, prestige, celebrities, designers, niche, women’s, men’s, etc… I’m up for any challenge! And ultimately I am hoping that one of these creations will end up being a best-seller. Mostly because it makes me so happy and moves me when I smell one of my creations on someone else. It is the best feeling. I realise that I touched someone’s heart.
One of my favourite fragrances you’ve created is Etat Libre d’Orange You or someone like you edp. How did you create this fragrance?
This was a fantastic project. A great collaboration between Chandler Burr and myself. In 2009, Chandler Burr wrote the book You Or Someone Like You. Later on, Etat Libre d’Orange approached Chandler about making a fragrance having the same title. Chandler asked me if I could be the perfumer behind it. I was more than happy to accept, as I had never approached a project with such a different concept.
Chandler and I started to work together and tried to create what would be the perfect fragrance for the novel’s narrator, Anne Rosenbaum. She lives in LA, is reserved and is an avid reader. She is a gardener as well. Chandler and I kept talking about what kind of notes would be perfect for Anne. But mainly, the fragrance that was created for her is not a perfume. It is a scent. We do not talk about ingredients or notes as we describe it. It is an experience. It is what you want it to be. That’s how Chandler described it to me before I started the creative process.
“We do not talk about ingredients or notes as we describe it. It is an experience. It is what you want it to be.”
You’ve created several celebrity fragrances. Is it different creating a celeb fragrance, as opposed to a designer or a niche scent?
I find the process a little bit different, yes. When I create a fragrance for a celebrity, I have to think about all their followers, their fans. It seems like the crowd to please is very big, so I need to make sure that it has a broad appeal from top to bottom. Whereas for a designer, or a niche brand, I can really think out of the box and pour my creativity into it, without thinking too much about who I am going to please. Here, I am inspired greatly by the designer’s vision that they seek to capture through scent.
Do you have a favourite ingredient?
It is hard to come down to one ingredient when we have so many beautiful materials around us. But I will say myfavourite is Vetiver. Five years ago, I travelled to Haiti to experience the vetiver harvest. Haiti is where the very best vetiver in the world is grown.
Givaudan has a very important platform of ethical sourcing, which we call Sourcing for Shared Value. We are dedicated to strengthening the vetiver supply chain, including supporting a co-operative in Les Cayes which helps the farmers and villagers to have a better life. It ensures that the vetiver producers can benefit from a guaranteed minimum price and regular technical support from both Givaudan’s and our partner teams. Our initiative aims to ensure that appropriate practices for vetiver harvesting and distilling are in place.
EARTHY: Caroline Sabas loves vetiver for its many qualities.
This process produces the highest quality oil. I experienced the whole process of distillation, from the fields where the farmers uproot the plant, clean it, and then send it to the distillation factory. At the factory, the air smelled wonderful. I felt like I was wearing a blanket of warm vetiver. It is such a faceted material, woody, sensual, unctuous, golden, elegant, earthy, warm. Very addictive to me. Vetiver had been used so much in men’s fragrances. But with this quality, we can create a gorgeous woman’s fragrance as well, using a classic and beautiful ingredient that supports people and the environment.
“It is such a faceted material, woody, sensual, unctuous, golden, elegant, earthy, warm.”
Do you a travel a lot for your work?
I do travel for work and I enjoy spending time in our office in Paris and our office in São Paulo. This allows me to stay current with marketplace and lifestyle trends and also participate in various projects in places other than New York and spend time with my colleagues in other countries.
DIVINE: Caroline Sabas also created Vince Camuto Divina EDP. It was released in 2018.
Which fragrance do you wish you’d created?
There are a lot of fragrances that I wish I had created. Starting with Chanel No 19, which I find exquisite. Also, one that set such a huge trend and influenced the fragrance category is Angel, which is a Givaudan creation. I am inspired by these classic trend-setters that were so different, so sensual, so disruptive for their time.
Do you have a mentor?
My mentor is David Apel [her husband and vice-president senior perfumer at Symrise]. I love what he taught me and always value the incredible education on perfumery he shared with me: from ingredient expertise to his creative approach. He is one of the best perfumers in the industry today.
Two years ago, when I started my blog, my camera skills were pretty useless. I’m not counting Instagram and its various filters here. I was fortunate to be given a nifty and user-friendly Nikon camera by my sister. When I first started using it, my fragrance photography was rudimentary (not even 101). But over the last two years I’ve started honing my skills. I’m not claiming to be an expert. But I think these tips should help if you’re looking to improve your fragrance photography skills. Most of these tips work best in combination and don’t require the set-up of a photographic studio (which I don’t have). I’ve included a series of before and after images here to illustrate the various tips.
INVEST IN A GOOD CAMERA
Sorry, I don’t use a cellphone for my blog photography. From experience, I get great joy from my Nikon V1. It has lots of useful features, without getting too complicated, and comes with a 10-30mm lens. You can buy it from Amazon.com for new for $899.00: here.
SURFACES, SURFACES, SURFACES
If you’re really set on a cohesive look with little variation, then sticking to one kind of flat surface is for you. However, if you want to vary your images (while still having your own look), you need to become a seasoned surface-hunter. Whenever I’m out and about, I’m always on the lookout for new surfaces to shoot on. Friends’ homes never look the same again.
BACKGROUNDS
Another good way to improve your fragrance photography is to use a variety of backgrounds, whether indoors or outdoors. You’ll be surprised to discover how even seemingly ugly backgrounds with the right lighting and editing can add to your look. So don’t overlook even the “ugliest” of drainage systems.
While on the lookout for surfaces and backgrounds, keep accessories in mind, too. These can take the form of statues, jewellery, coloured glass, flowers, plates – the options are limitless. Whatever you do, make sure these accessories are clean and don’t take away the attention from your bottle. I keep a prop box to store things like pieces of ribbon, cute toys, chains and textured place mats (for backgrounds). You never know…
LIGHTING, CAMERA, ACTION!
How you use lighting, whether while taking pics or in post-production, will heavily influence the outcome of your fragrance photography. Beware of shooting in too much direct sun (lots of glare) or in dingy interiors (which can make images look “dirty”). I like to use lighting effects such as shadows (which can hide some fingerprints and specks of dust), contrast and highlights to create “moody” images.
EDITING SOFTWARE
You don’t have to be a Photoshop whizz to treat your images to essential post-production editing. I use some very basic photo-editing software to transform some quite average-looking images to striking images that most people would not believe have been processed through Microsoft Photo Editor.
WATER WORKS
Whenever I’m struggling to get a shot and I need to eradicate any unsightly blemishes or specks, I apply water splashes or even a full glass, depending on what’s required. I probably over-use this effect, but that’s because it’s such a versatile solution. And often creates (super-pleased with myself) reflections. Even better, just make sure to wipe your surfaces and bottles (including tops) and double-check with your zoom-in facility that you haven’t left any nasties behind.
GROWN IN GRASSE: Grasse’s micro-climate makes it especially suitable for the growth of flowers such as tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, Madonna lily and violet, among others. Image: Musées de Grasse.
Welcome to the last edition of Fragrance News Snippets for 2018. If you’d like to share anything for inclusion in the next edition of Fragrance News Snippets, please pop me a mail at rpgoller@gmail.com.
IMAGE: fredericmalle.com.
GRASSE GETS UNESCO RECOGNITION
The heartland of French perfumery, Grasse, has been awarded World Heritage Status by Unesco. Grasse’s importance in international perfumery has declined in recent years. So adding the centuries-old traditions and skills of growing flowers, processing raw materials and creating fragrances in the area to Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list is very important. “Unesco’s world heritage status guarantees that we can safeguard Grasse’s collective savoir-faire and natural ingredients for generations to come,” says Armand de Villoutreys, Firmenich’s President: Perfumery & Ingredients.
ON THE MAP: Grasse is situated in the south of France. Image: Map.France.com.
NEW NARCISO RODRIGUEZ LAUNCHES IN 2019
There are exciting new launches coming up in 2019 for fans of Narciso Rodriguez’s musc-infused fragrances. These include: Narciso Rodriguez For Her Pure Musc EDP, Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDT and Narciso Rodriguez Oud Musc EDP.
ACQUA DI PARMA’S DOUBLE-DIGIT GROWTH
Exact figures have not been given, but Acqua di Parma has revealed that its business would experience double-digit growth in 2018 and 2019. “We’ve enjoyed incredible, double-digit growth for 20 years, with the exception of 2008, when everyone suffered. And, there are still so many, many people worldwide that have to discover all the beauty of Acqua di Parma,” says CEO Laura Burdese. The sizeable niche brand, now owned by LVMH, is renowned for its fragrances, candles, bath, body and leather lifestyle products that celebrate Italian sophistication and vivacity.
Christmas is the time for fragrance limited editions, but some are more covetable and worthy of inclusion in Fragrance News Snippets than others. Exhibit A: The translucent-coloured limited editions of seven of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle’s classic fragrances. These include: Portrait Of A Lady by Dominique Ropion, Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion, Musc Ravageur by Maurice Roucel (picured below), Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger, Bigarade Concentree by Jean-Claude Ellena, Iris Poudre by Pierre Bourdon and En Passant by Olivia Giacobetti.
For more than 20 years, perfumer Emilie Coppermann has produced stand-out fragrances for a variety of brands. These range from The Different Company After Midnight EDT, Oriflame Eclat Mon Parfum EDP and Comme des Garçons Serpentine EDP to Sonia Rykiel EDT, Givenchy Play EDT and Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Men EDT. According to Perfumer & Flavorist, the Symrise master perfumer was awarded the prize based on an anonymous smelling of a fragrance created by her a year prior to the award taking place.
Clean and reserved fragrances certainly have a place. But sometimes I just want to reach for one of the classic powerhouse fragrances from previous decades that leave an indelible trail wherever you go. These powerhouse fragrances are probably OI (olfactorily incorrect) in these times of open-plan office sensitivities. So finding the right time and environment to wear them is crucial.
This list of mine is just a snapshot of possible powerhouse fragrances. What are your favourite powerhouse fragrances? Do you have the vintages of any of these?
“These powerhouse fragrances are probably OI (olfactorily incorrect) in these times of open-plan office sensitivities.”
ANTONIO PUIG QUOROM EDT (CARLOS BENAIM)
Originally launched in 1981, Quorum packs an old-school power punch with dominant notes of oakmoss, leather, tobacco, artemisia and sandalwood. This bargain fragrance is super-masculine stuff, irresistibly earthy and is as far from generic as you can get. It’s not often you will find quality at this price, so hunt it down now. R245 for 50ml and R360 for 100ml.
ELIZABETH TAYLOR WHITE DIAMONDS EDT (CARLOS BENAIM)
If you think celebrity fragrances lack staying power in both sense of the phrase, you need to wear Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT. Launched in 1991, it takes me back to a time of big-time glamour (big hair, lots of hairspray and smoke). It’s a white floral and the aldehydes-o-meter is turned up very high. Bold and audacious! R750 for 100ml.
LANCÔME TRÉSOR EDP (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)
So your mom might have worn this back in 1990 when it was launched. But please don’t let that “mature” label put you off this sweet floriental that could teach most of today’s fruity-florals a thing or two. It features a large and luscious rose note at is heart. Little wonder it has spawned over 20 flankers and limited editions. R1 350 for 50ml.
YSL OPIUM EDP
It’s not a coincidence that so many powerhouses were released in the 70s and 80s. Those decades were not a time for shy, reserved fragrances. YSL Opium EDP is one of the perfect examples of this “big is best” is philosophy. Although this spicy oriental may have lost some strength between the 1977 and 2009 versions, the latter is still an elaborate oriental staple for any perfume-lover’s collection. R2 030.00 for 90ml.
CHANEL ANTAEUS EDt (JACQUES POLGE)
This is one of the classics of modern perfumery. All perfumers looking to create a new masculine fragrance beyond today’s formulaic releases should study this one. Macho yet sophisticated at the time, it’s one of the best male powerhouses around, even 18 years after its original release. Unashamedly woody and smoky, it’s animalic a-go-go. R1 600 for 100ml.
YSL KOUROS EDT (pierre bourdon)
Another big-hitter from the 80s with seductive musky and animalic overtones that’s still going strong almost 40 years later. Featuring 20 listed notes, it’s a complex thing of beauty, with standout notes of coriander, patchouli, aldehydes, honey, musk and leather creating a powerfully seductive effect. R1 330.00 for 100 ml.
