Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP Review

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Creed. The name alone is enough to elicit hyper devotion and debate among its fans that sometimes borders on the religious. Founded in 1760, the Paris-based niche fragrance house is a father-and-son business that has created numerous classic fragrances through the generations. But if you were to insist on one that captures what the upmarket brand is all about, it would have to be the wonderfully named Creed Green Irish Tweed.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Perfumer

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation created this scent that was released in 1985. Tradition is very important to Creed, so all the family perfumers through the generations are given royal-sounding names.

Olivier Creed Sixth Generation is responsible for an impressive succession of Creed classics. These include: Aventus EDP, Bois du Portugal EDP, Erolfa EDP, Himalaya EDP, Millésime Impérial EDP and Virgin Island Water EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Olivier Creed Sixth Generation

IMAGE: creedperfume.com.au

There’s also much online speculation that the legendary Pierre Bourdon helped create Green Irish Tweed.

So what does Creed Green Irish Tweed Smell Like?

Some brands go to elaborate lengths to describe the inspiration behind their fragrances. Creed keeps it simple (and believable) for Green Irish Tweed: “A stroll through the Irish countryside.”

With the trio of top notes of lemon, Indian verbena and peppermint, this fragrance makes an immediate and distinctive impression. It’s bracingly fresh, crisp and clean..” If this is what a walk through the Irish countryside is all about, then let’s continue the journey…

Creeed Green Irish Tweed EDP - Irish countryside

GOING GREEN: Creed Green Irish Tweed is inspired by a walk in the Irish countryside. IMAGE: ireland.com

The heart of the fragrance belongs to a compelling violet leaf note. It builds on the fresh, green vibe of the opening. The base has a slight woody focus, courtesy of the sandalwood note, and the iris note adds an element of powderiness.

And what about the musky ambergris that’s commonly listed in Creed fragrances and part of the reason why they are so expensive? If this rare by-product of the digestive system of the sperm whale is present in this scent, it’s certainly not as distinctive as the one found in Creed Millésime Impérial EDP.

Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

Almost 35 years since its launch, Creed Green Irish Tweed remains of the brand’s big sellers and it’s easy to understand why. It’s a unique perfume that’s signature scent material.

Memo Paris: Interview With Creative Director Clara Molloy

Memo Paris - Clara Molloy

STORYTELLER : Clara Molloy is the creative director of Memo Paris. Image: Memo.

Travel has always been a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. And Memo Paris excels at using this trope in its perfumes and story-telling. The Paris-based niche fragrance company was founded by husband and wife team, Clara (creative director) and John Molloy (president) in 2007. Their love for travel is reflected in all of the brand’s collections: Art Land, Cuir Nomades, Escales Extraordinaire, Graines Vagabondes and Les Echappées.

“Memo Paris has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection.”

Memo, named after Clara’s fondness for collecting her travel memories, has especially made a name for itself with its superbly evocative Cuir Nomades collection. It includes standouts such as French Leather EDP, Moroccan Leather EDP, Russian Leather EDP and the recently launched Oriental Leather EDP.

Memo Paris - Store Exterior

MADE IN PARIS: The exterior of the Memo store at 34 Rue Cambon, 75001, Paris. Image: Memo Paris.

Memo Italian Leather EDP opens with a greenish tomato note, which immediately lets you know this is not the usual leather fragrance. There’s a big dose of creamy vanilla throughout, which is a perfect partner for the buttery leather. Notes of galbanum, tolu balsam and benzoin just add to the sense of luxury.

Memo Paris - Italian Leather EDP

I have smelled many beautiful fragrances over the years. But it’s the special ones that really make an impression. Memo African Leather EDP belongs in this special category. It opens with a big dose of cardamom and saffron. The leather accord that follows is pronounced and rich and complemented by cumin, patchouli, oud and vetiver notes. It truly captures the smells of an African landscape.

Memo Paris - African Leather EDP

I’ve tried samples of various other Memo fragrances and what stands out for me is their undeniable quality and ability to transport the wearer with their well-crafted blend of superior ingredients.

I sent Clara some questions and this is what she had to say…

What was missing from the niche fragrance market when you decided to launch Memo?

We were sincerely not thinking about markets and markets shares when we launched our brand. We were thinking about doing the most beautiful brand we could imagine with a very qualitative approach.

“I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations.”

Has your founding inspiration changed at all since your launch in 2007?

Memo is about travelling and landscapes. This has not changed. I truly believe landscapes are alive and they inspire our best creations. Of course, over the years my curiosity has changed. I want to discover even more remote beautiful places and even more amazing perfumes.

Memo Paris - Store Interior

GOLD STANDARD: The luxurious interior of the Memo store in Paris. Image: Memo.

In what ways is Memo a luxury fragrance brand?

If luxury means quality, then we are a luxury fragrance brand. I see more myself as an independent artisan.

What is your role as creative director?

My role is to find stories.

Your husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder of Memo. Is it ever tricky working with him in both a business and personal capacity?

Is it very tricky to be married? Not for me. I love sharing my journey. Then the question of working or not working together is secondary. We have very different roles and we respect each other.

Memo Paris - John Molloy

PERFUME PARTNER: Clara’s husband, John Molloy, is the co-founder and president of the brand.

What is the company’s best-seller?

It depends on the country. It could be Inlé, Irish leather, French Leather, Marfa…

I’m a big fan of your Irish Leather EDP. How did you and perfumer Aliénor Massenet go about capturing the unique “Irishness” of this scent?

Thank you! My husband is Irish, so we had a lot of pression for this perfume. We always go back to his house in Ireland where his family raises horses. Our inspiration was the wind blowing on the grass there.

Memo Paris - Irish Leather EDP

All of your fragrances have been created by Aliénor Massenet. Why is she your nose of choice?

Most of them, yes. Because we can talk to each other. It is so difficult to find the right words for perfumes as they are abstract. With Aliénor, it is really easy. She gets what I am saying quickly and vice versa.

Memo Paris - Alienor Massenet

FROM ABSTRACTION TO REALITY: Aliénor Massenet has created most of the Memo fragrances.

What’s next for Memo?

A lot of novelties… Winter Palace has just been launched and we are all very excited. The subtleness of this ambery tea is beautiful.

Where do you think the niche sector is heading?

All of our competitors that started when we launched have sold their companies. There are many brands and many more to come. I hope everyone will keep in mind that niche means high standards. Otherwise there is no point in being niche.

Memo Paris fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. https://www.skins.co.za

Memo Paris - Winter Palace EDP

Image: Memo.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Review

Ever since it was founded in 1916 in Parma, Italy, by the super-dapper Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma has been synonymous with luxury and the good life, Italian style. All serious perfume-lovers know Acqua di Parma Colonia, a 20th-century citrus classic. From the Colonia versions to the Blu Mediterraneo Collection, Acqua di Parma has built a thriving business on high-quality variations on the citrus theme. Perhaps the most intriguing of these is Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud. From the brand’s Ingredient Collection, it was launched in 2012.

Acqua di Parma Colonia

SO WHAT DOES ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA OUD SMELL LIKE?

The citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot and Italian orange open this fragrance in typically uplifting Acqua di Parma style.

The oud comes through quickly after that. Warm, sensual and smooth, without being overwhelming, it’s a refined take on the oud theme. The oud is accompanied and complemented by a strong and silky leather accord, which, for some reason, is not listed in the official notes. But make no mistake, it’s a big part of this fragrance. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

The base adds to the feeling of warmth with the notes of Moroccan Atlas cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood accord in perfect harmony.

VERDICT

Harmonious is a good way to describe this scent. Before you try it, you might think that the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess. When you wear it, you will see how all the elements work together to produce a scent that’s eminently elegante. As a concentrated cologne, it delivers good performance, which is not always the case with colognes.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

If you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud is the perfect choice.

It’s a pity that Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t list its perfumers, especially when they produce such good work.

PRICE

R3 375 (100ml) to R4 680 (180ml).

WHERE TO BUY IT

https://www.foschiniforbeauty.co.za/pdp/acqua-di-parma-colonia-oud-eau-de-cologne/_/A-000179AAOG2

Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud

Maison Christian Dior – Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Perfume-lovers were in for the deluxe treatment when the first Maison Christian Dior on the African continent opened its doors in Johannesburg in 2018. We all know Dior for its haute couture, “new look” style and its associations with all things Parisian. So expectations were high of the luxury fragrances on offer. I’m not one for shopping malls, but I’ve popped into the boutique a few times to lap up the chic ambience. These are my impressions.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

CHIC EXPERIENCE: The exterior of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg. In the rear of the store, a video wall features footage of Dior’s famous home, Château de La Colle Noire, in the south of France. Image: Dior.

The look and feel of the store 

Sophisticated and modern, with reminders of Dior’s grand heritage. Don’t mistake the quietness of Maison Christian Dior, compared to many of the other shops in the centre, for a lack of business. It’s all about the quality of the shopper here, not the quantity.  Special touch: A video wall that features Dior’s property in the south of France, Château de La Colle Noire.

Taking its cue from the increasing demand for exclusive, high-quality fragrances, La Collection Privée Christian Dior was launched in 2004. Three fragrances – Bois d’Argent EDP, Eau Noire EDP and Cologne Blanche EDP – were available at that stage. The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals. Each fragrance comes in a sleek cylindrical bottle with a black magnetic cap, originally designed by then Christian Dior homme creative director, Hedi Slimane. 

“The collection, now numbering 26 fragrances (22 are available in South Africa), is divided into sensuals, orientals, florals, light florals and fruity florals.”

It has also expanded to include candles, bath and body products, and accessories. Most of the fragrances have been created by highly respected perfumer François Demachy.

The latest launch 

The fruity floral Holy Peony EDP was launched earlier in 2019. It’s a soft, pretty and slightly sweet take on peony, with a big helping of apricot rose. The composition also features notes of red fruits, wood and musk.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The best seller

South Africans like their fragrances potent and long-lasting. So it’s no surprise that the unisex Oud Ispahan, which was launched in 2014, does so well in Maison Christian Dior. With notes of smoky woods, rose, frankincense and resin, it’s a smooth and sophisticated oud.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

FRAGROOM favourite

Cuir Cannage EDP which, I am told, has been discontinued. Before it disappears from the shelves completely, make sure to grab a bottle of this beauty. Officially, it’s inspired by “an immersion in the personal sphere of a woman’s handbag, where you could smell the scents of leather, lipstick, metal, candy, or paper”, according to the brand’s website. However, it is, in fact, perfectly unisex. There’s no doubting this is a superb leather fragrance, but what really makes it so special is how well Demachy balanced it with the floral and woody aspects.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

The service

The exterior of Maison Christian Dior might say intimidatingly exclusive, but the service is friendly and welcoming. Of course, I got good service, as the staff knew I was a blogger. However, I’ve watched them interacting with customers and they all received the same professional service. Hard selling is not Dior style and it’s good to know that staff have a history with the brand, so they know their stuff.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg

Verdict

Maison Christian Dior is all about the luxury experience. It’s the place to visit if you’re in search of high-quality, well-crafted perfumes with a sense of history. Attention to detail is premium level, especially when it comes to the packaging of purchases.

Contact details

Maison Christian Dior, Shop U315, Sandton City, Rivonia Road, Johannesburg. Tel: 010 001 2590. Email: storemanager@christiandior.co.za.

Maison Christian Dior - Fragrance Shopping in Johannesburg 8

Honorine Blanc Interview: The Perfectionist Perfumer

Honorine Blanc Portrait

IMAGE: Firmenich.

Self-proclaimed perfectionist Honorine Blanc is one of Firmenich’s master perfumers, alongside luminaries such as Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp and Nathalie Lorson. It’s easy to see why she has earned this accolade when you consider her many creations and her drive.

Before we get to the interview with Honorine Blanc, here are some essential facts about the passionate creator.

Honorine Blanc Portrait

HONORINE BLANC 101

Background: Born and raised in the Lebanon. Moved to Paris at the age of 16.

Education: Masters degree in Maths, Physics and Chemistry.

Perfume education: ISIPCA, Paris.

Mentors: Sophia Grosjman and Carlos Benaïm

Works for: Firmenich in New York.

Creations and co-creations include: Lanvin Rumeur 2 Rose EDP (2006), Ralph Lauren Polo Explorer EDT (2007, Beyoncé Heat Rush EDT (2010), Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Gold Couture EDP (2014), YSL Black Opium EDP (2014), Tom Ford Noir Anthracite EDP (2017), Lancôme La Nuit Trésor à la Folie (2018).

Favourite authors:  Stefan Zweig and Kahlil Gibran.

Favourite artist: Gerhard Richter.

Honorine Blanc

CREATIVE EXPRESSION: Honorine Blanc loves the works of Gerhard Richter.

What‘s the attraction of perfumery for you?

I enjoy this unique universe for both its technical and psychological facets. In a constant search for creating the right balance between beauty and addiction, I like to play with imperfections and try to master them. I define myself as a perfectionist.

“My curiosity constantly pushes me into the unknown and way out of my comfort zone.”

I love giving and sharing and never stop playing with boundaries and tensions to unveil the most surprising formulas. I’m passionate about being a trailblazer for young perfumers to be their own version of spectacular. I also adore transforming the magical way I feel fragrance into beautiful emotional experiences for those who wear my perfumes.

Honorine Blanc - YSL Black Opium EDP

Where did you study perfumery? What do you remember most from that experience?

I went to ISIPCA Paris and was then taken under the wings of Sophia Grosjman and Carlos Benaïm – two of perfumery’s greatest icons – at IFF, New York. But formal study is just part of the journey. I’m always learning. My curiosity constantly pushes me into the unknown and way out of my comfort zone. What I remember? To create from the heart. Follow my instinct. Be original. I would never betray myself. My creations are part of me.

Honorine Blanc - Sophia Grojsman

MENTOR: Honorine Blanc received invaluable guidance from the great Sophia Grojsman.

What fragrances have you created recently? Please tell us about them.

Woman by Calvin Klein EDP. What a wonderful challenge!  Today’s woman is so multifaceted. Both simple and complex, empowered and vulnerable. I sought to express that richness in this fragrance. For Éclat de Vert Parfum by Aerin, throughout the creative process, I didn’t follow the trend, but played with iconic natural ingredients to create a very feminine structure. 

Honorine Blanc - Calvin Klein Women EDP

IMAGE: ro.calvinklein.com.

What trend in modern perfumery are you most excited about?

I prefer not to think in terms of trends, as we’re a world of individuals. But well-being is definitely the new luxury, along with a return to nature.

Do you have a favourite fragrance?

The distinctive fragrance of early morning. The perfume of skin. All of my creations and everything I’ve yet to create.

Have you ever had to deal with the disappointment of a client wanting to dilute your fragrance?

The development process may sometimes bring some frustrations. But we respect each other. I listen with my heart if they ask for changes and I also encourage them to open up to feeling the fragrance my way.

Honorine Blanc - Aerin Éclat de Vert Parfum

IMAGE: aerin.com.

What do you consider to be the highlight of your career?

Being acknowledged by my clients and peers is key. I love to feel there is always another highlight waiting to surprise me. What’s important is that I wake up every day with new ideas and full of creative energy.

Is perfumery still a male-dominated industry?

No, I don’t think so. The creator’s perception of the world – our emotions, feelings and our personal universe – make the difference. Perfumery, in its purest sense, is about being authentic, individual and open to emotion. Man or woman, creative spirits can shine in the perfume industry if they’re brave and humble enough.

Honorine Blanc - Cacharel Yes I Am EDP

What project are you working on next?

All will soon be revealed! I’m very busy and that’s exactly how I like it.

Sources: Fragrantica.com, http://www.fragrance.org

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Five months into 2019 and the first BIG designer fragrance launch of the year is here. I am talking about the release of Montblanc Explorer EDP, the new fragrance pillar from the German luxury goods company.

I’ve been seeing many IG posts on this fragrance and recently attended a very lavish and exclusive launch event, which just affirmed how much money the brand is putting into this launch. I’m not one for predictions, but I reckon it’s a safe bet that Montblanc Explorer is set to be one of the fragrance money-spinners of 2019.

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

PERFUMERS

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this perfume: Antoine Maisondieu (Montblanc Legend Night EDP, Comme des Garçons Black EDT, Gucci Rush For Men EDT), Olivier Pescheux (Diptyque Tempo EDP, Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT, Versace Eros Flame EDP) and Jórdi Fernandez (24 Gold EDT, Carner Barcelona Latin Lover EDP, Ex Nihilo Brompton Immortals EDP).

“All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal.”

All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal. They were specifically chosen for this project due to their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernandez).

Montblanc Explorer Review - Jordi Fernandez

PATCHOULI EXPERTISE: Jórdi Fernandez is one of the co-creators of Montblanc Explorer EDP.

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

This smooth woody-aromatic-leather fragrance works well from start to finish. The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Bergamot

CITRUS EFFECT: Calabrian bergamot is one of the key ingredients of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakeable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and ambery ambroxan.

Montblanc Explorer EDP is highly versatile and can be worn to the gym, the office, a nightclub or on a date night. It’s also not season-specific. Just another reason why Montblanc Explorer will be a huge success.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Vetiver

EARTHY: Haitian vetiver is at the heart of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

PACKAGING 

A lot of thought and craftsmanship has gone into the design of the bottle with its leatherish sheath. The solid and substantial spherical bottle was designed by well-known South African fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen, who also designed the award-winning Dunhill Icon bottle.

Montblanc Explorer Review

VERDICT

It’s elegant and masculine stuff with good performance and sillage. If compliments are important to you when you wear a fragrance, look no further. I wouldn’t say Montblanc Explorer is particularly adventurous or innovative, but it is very well crafted and easy on the nose. Expect to smell it a lot this year and no doubt there will be a rollout of flankers over the next few years. Although officially aimed at men with a sense of adventure (which sounds like an awful lot of fragrances), this is a genuine crowd-pleaser and will appeal to a large demographic.

Montblanc Explorer Review

 

Grooming Reviews: Cetaphil Sun High Protection Spray SPF30, Super Dry Sport Revive Men’s Body Spray, BioNike Defence Man Global Anti-Ageing Serum, Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, American Crew All-In-One Face Balm Serum Broad Spectrum SPF15

Cetaphil Sun SPF30 High Protection Spray

It always takes me time to put together a grooming post, as I give myself at least a month to determine whether a product is any good or not. These are some of the products I have been using.

CETAPHIL SUN SPF30 HIGH PROTECTION SPRAY

Whether it’s summer or winter, the sun is always harsh here in Johannesburg, so I always do my best to apply sun protection daily. The problem with sun protection products is that they are often greasy and can cause breakouts. I’m happy to report that Cetaphil Sun High Protection Spray SPF30 is not one of those products. It offers protection against UVA and AVB rays in a format that’s easy to apply and easily absorbed. It’s also water and sweat resistant, and suitable for sensitive skin. Need even higher sun protection? Cetaphil Sun SPF 50+ Very High Protection Lotion is well worth checking out, too. R265 for 150ml.

Cetaphil Sun SPF30 High Protection Spray

SUPER DRY SPORT REVIVE MEN’S BODY SPRAY

I haven’t worn a body spray for decades (we’re talking since my 20s), so I was keen to try this one for the hell of it. If I’m honest, the eye-catching lumo packaging had a lot to do with it. And the scent? A youthful freshie that features notes of cardamom and lemon. It’s not bad at all, but I’m way too old to wear it with any conviction. I would recommend this for a young 20-something doing the pre- or post-gym thing. R69.99 for 200ml.

Super Dry Sport Revive Men's Body Spray

AMERICAN CREW 24-HOUR DEODORANT BODY WASH

There are three things I look for when considering a body wash. 1) Do I feel clean after using it? 2) Does it lather up easily? 3) Does it smell good? American Crew 24-Hour Deodorant Body Wash delivers on all three of these basics with its fresh formula, although it is a little on the pricey side. I wear a fragrance throughout the day, so I can’t really vouch for its 24-hour claims. R375 for R450ml.

American Crew 24-Hour Deodorant Body Wash

BIONIKE DEFENCE MAN GLOBAL ANTI-AGEING SERUM

As the big 5-0 approaches (please tell my skin, age is nothing but a number), I am always on the lookout for effective anti-ageing serums that won’t give me more wrinkles due to their high price. BioNike Defence Man Global Anti-Ageing Serum is just that product. It combats the signs of ageing on the face and in the eye area (so no need for a separate eye product) through a variety of active ingredients. These include skin-firming baobab extract (very useful in the fight against wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles in the eye area) and hyaluronic acid, which boosts much-needed moisture. R195 for 50ml.

BioNike Defence Man Global Anti-Ageing Serum

CETAPHIL GENTLE SKIN CLEANSER

I’ve seen Cetaphil products on the shelves of my local chemist for years, but it’s only recently that I’ve started using this brand’s products. I now understand why Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser has a bit of a cult following. Suitable for all skin types, it cleans the face (and the body) without stripping it. Plus it’s a gentle cleanser too. If excess sebum is your skin issue, I would recommend Cetaphil Oily Skin Cleanser. R123 for 125ml, R205 for 250ml and R267 for R400ml.

Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser

AMERICAN CREW ALL-IN-ONE FACE BALM SERUM BROAD SPECTRUM SPF15

Double-duty products always get my interest. After all, why use two products when one will do. This one soothes the skin after shaving and acts as an anti-ageing moisturiser (two biggies for me). The SPF is an added bonus, although I would need stronger protection. It’s a very efficient product. R415 for 170ml.

American Crew All-In-One Face Balm SPF15

Fragrance Etiquette: The New Rules (Plus Some Things That Never Change)

Fragrance Etiquette

There’s no doubt that we are living in a time of rapid change, economically, socially and politically. Many of the old rules simply don’t apply anymore and the same applies to wearing fragrance, too. There used to be a very simple list of do’s and don’ts for fragrance etiquette. For example, at its most basic, fresh and citrusy fragrances for summer, warm and spicy fragrances for winter. But do rules like this still apply?

Increasingly, how to wear fragrance is all about modern etiquette. It can be a potential minefield of confusion, misunderstanding and embarrassment.

Fragrance Etiquette

COOL COLOGNE: Why not reach for a citrus scent in winter.

To help you navigate through these realities of fragrance etiquette, here are some of the new rules of fragrance. I’ve also included a brief reminder of those that will never change.

THOU SHALT WEAR WHAT YOU LIKE, BUT BE OCCASION APPROPRIATE

Firstly, and most importantly, things are a lot more flexible than they used to be, which might irk those who prefer their lives to be more black and white.

Generally, this means that we are now all encouraged to wear whatever fragrance we like. Modern fragrance etiquette is not about following the dictates of fashion and marketing anymore; it’s about personal style and preferences. So if you have a thing for the big and bold fragrances of the 80s, go for it.

Fragrance Etiquette

BIG AND BOLD: If the 80s rules for you, make the most of your personal preferences, but…

Of course, rules always come with qualifiers and caveats (which may even seem contradictory). So while it’s good to indulge in what works for you, it’s also about being occasion appropriate.

That rich and boozy scent might smell like a million dollars on you, but it’s not going to win you any points at a corporate-job interview, for example. This leads us to the following occasion-appropriate rule of fragrance etiquette.

Fragrance Etiquette

UNDER THE INFLUENCE: Perhaps it’s not the best idea to wear a boozy scent, such as John Varvatos Dark Rebel, to a job interview.

THOU SHALT KEEP IT TO YOURSELF IN AN OPEN-PLAN OFFICE

The open-plan office is not going away any time soon. It has brought with it a multitude of sensitivities, regarding what to eat, how loud to talk, etc.

Your choice of fragrance for the office can become highly contested terrain. If not handled correctly, it could result in one of those managerial emails requesting wearers of “strange” and “exotic” scents to be more sensitive to the olfactory needs of their colleagues.

In short, while others might admire your impeccable “scents of style” at a distance, they don’t necessarily won’t to be exposed to it, in close proximity in an open-plan environment.

“Without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours.”

So without cramping your personal style, as a guideline, it’s best to tone down your choice of fragrance during office hours. This doesn’t mean nondescript and boring, but do think twice about so-called “beast mode” fragrances if you don’t want to get up the noses of your co-workers.

Fragrance Etiquette

OPEN-PLAN FRIENDLY? Keep super-distinctive and -powerful fragrances like Orto Parisi Terroni EDP for after-hours.

THOU SHALT NOT STICK RELIGIOUSLY TO SEASONS

This used to be one of the clear-cut rules of fragrance etiquette but, in the new flexi era, is showing signs of becoming more relaxed. If you enjoy wearing citrusy scents in winter, there’s nothing to stop you from doing so. Equally, if you want to wear an oud scent in summer, there’s no reason why you can’t.

As Helen Fitzgerald writes on MelMagazine.com: “For the most part, a summer scent is a marketing construct, much like the idea of a gendered scent. One can wear any type of scent in any season and have it ‘work,’ depending on the desired effect.

“Perfume is about fantasy, so finding a scent you want to wear in summer is about figuring out what your fantasy of summer is.”

Fragrance Etiquette

FLEXI FRAGRANCE: Wearing an oud fragrance in summer is perfectly acceptable.

All of this is done with the knowledge, of course, that certain fragrances will react more to increased levels of heat, humidity and sweatiness.

THOU SHALT NOT BE A SELF-LIMITING FRAGRANCE SNOB

The biggest growth in the fragrance industry in the last 10 years has been in the niche sector. Unfortunately, it has also been accompanied by the rise of fragrance snobbery, where anything non-niche is considered to be of inferior quality.

While most of the innovation in fragrance is happening in niche, the truth is that there also countless over-priced, average-smelling scents in that category.

“It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear.”

Fragrance Etiquette

STAR SCENT: There are some surprisingly good celeb fragrances.

It’s far more productive, and ultimately rewarding, to keep an open mind on the kinds of fragrances you’re keen to wear. There’s a lot of mediocrity to be found in every category, from designer and celebrity to budget, but there are also treasures to be found in each. It would be a pity to limit your fragrance options by being an unbearable snob.

THOU SHALT CROSS THE GENDER DIVIDE

While we’re on the subject of improving your options, it’s an increasingly acceptable part of fragrance etiquette for men to make a detour via the female counters and shelves to buy female fragrances for themselves. Women have been buying men’s fragrances for themselves for many years and now adventurous men have the opportunity to make up for what they have been missing out on.

Fragrance Etiquette

GENDER GAP: Increase your options by exploring female fragrances.

Linked to this is the rise of unisex/shared/gender-neutral fragrances, one of the biggest trends in recent years. Increasingly, men no longer want to be confined by the labels of “for him” and “for her” fragrances and are looking for perfumes that appeal to both genders.

BARGAIN HUNTING IS COOL

Whichever way you look at it, fragrance is an expensive business, especially on the niche side, so being a savvy consumer is more important than ever.

There’s much hype and a hefty price tag when a big new designer fragrance is launched. If you are willing to wait six months, say, chances are the “hottest new launch of 2019” will also become “the best bargain of 2019” when discounts become more common.

Niche too expensive for you? There are numerous reputable Facebook swap and purchase groups where niche’s usually higher prices are eminently more negotiable.

Fragrance Etiquette

EXPENSIVE BUSINESS: It’s very possible to find niche fragrance bargains on reputable Facebook groups.

And let’s not forget the bargain shelves. They might not be adorned with slick branding materials, but they are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.

“Bargain shelves are a great hunting ground for some surprisingly good celeb scents and long-forgotten classic cheapies.”

SOME OF THE OLD RULES STILL APPLY

Among all the change, it’s reassuring to know that some things remain the same when it comes to fragrance etiquette.

LESS IS STILL MORE

It’s very tempting to over-apply fragrance. After all, it is your favourite and everyone should be allowed to smell how good it is on you. But that all depends on your view of the effect of fragrance on others. To entice and intrigue? Or overpower and dominate? Besides, this would be infringing on the personal space of others.

TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT, ON YOUR SKIN

For all sorts of reasons. Fragrance is a luxury purchase, so you don’t want to waste your hard-earned cash on something that doesn’t suit you. Just because it smells great on a buddy, doesn’t mean it’s going to work on you. You get the picture…

DS & Durga: An Interview With Perfumer David Seth Moltz

DS & Durga Cowboy Grass EDP

When husband and wife, David Seth Moltz (a musician) and Kavi Moltz (an architect) launched DS & Durga in 2007, they did so without a plan in mind. Twelve years later, the perfumer and creative director’s NYC-based company is a well-respected (I would say “very cool”) niche fragrance brand that produces perfume, candle, body and car products.

DS & Durga - David Seth Moltz

SELF-TAUGHT: David Seth Moltz didn’t go to perfumery school, but taught himself the tools of the trade.

It’s easy to be a cool brand, but a cool brand with longevity is something else altogether. DS & Durga have achieved this through distinctive (often unusual), high-quality fragrances that take their inspiration from music, art, nature and design.

I got hold of self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz via Instagram and these are his replies to my questions.

DS & Durga Italian Citrus EDP

What makes DS & Durga stand out in an increasingly saturated niche market?

We are perfumer- and designer-owned. Our scents are a true reflection of our ideas and are not filtered through another perfumer.

You’ve been labelled a “hipster” fragrance brand. What are your thoughts on that?

Not sure what that really means. Doesn’t sound too positive, though.

DS & Durga Radio Bombay EDP

What was your goal when you originally launched DS & Durga in 2007? Has that changed at all?

At the beginning, we were just flying by the seat of our pants. We were surprised by the response and excited to make something with our own hands. We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools. Ultimately, it’s about spreading joy to as many people as possible.

“We still have the same desire to create, but with more tools.”

You and your wife, Kavi, founded DS & Durga. Why do you have such a strong working relationship?

We respect each other’s spheres of expertise.

DS & Durga - Kavi Moltz and David Seth Moltz

AREAS OF EXPERTISE: Kavi Moltz (creative director) and David Seth Moltz (perfumer) are the husband and wife team behind DS & Durga.

You didn’t study perfumery. Has that been an advantage for you?

I think so. I have my own systems of how aromatic materials work.

Where does your creativity come from?

God.

You’ve recently opened your new NYC store. Why should we visit it?

It has everything we make in one place the way we want you to experience it. You can talk to the founders or our small team and get deep inside what we do and how we do it. Nolita is also a great neighborhood to visit.

DS & Durga store

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT: The interior of the new DS & Durga store in Nolita, NYC.

One of my favourite DS & Durga fragrances is Debaser. I know the Pixies reference, but I wasn’t expecting all of that delicious fig and coconut for such a rock n roll-referenced fragrance…

Yep, it’s a reference to my youthful understanding of that provocative music on hot summer nights.

On the music theme, you collaborated with Duran Duran last year to celebrate their 40th year in the music biz. What do you remember most from that collaboration?

Working closely with Simon [le Bon, the band’s lead singer] on the fragrances.

DS & Durga El Cosmico EDP

Tell us about your latest fragrance, DS & Durga EDP?

The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the retail cost. It is a modern take on an Indian attar with frangipani, gardenia, lotus, sandalwood and vetyver.

“The DS scent is part of our gold label line where we use ridiculously expensive materials without worrying about the cost.”

Where do you think niche is heading?

Perfume as an art form will only increase. There will always be a market for perfume focused on the artistry of the juice first.

  • DS & Durga fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins Cosmetics. Tel: 011 883 1350. 

 

Guerlain Shalimar EDP – Fragrance Of The Month

Guerlain Shalimar

Guerlain Shalimar EDP
Launched

Guerlain Shalimar EDP was launched in 1925.

Perfumer

Jacques Guerlain (Guerlain Mitsouko, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur).

Guerlain Shalimar - Jacques Guerlain

PERFUME GENIUS: Jacques Guerlain in the laboratory. Image: Wikipedia.com.

Notes (according to fragrantica.com)

Citrus notes, lemon, bergamot, jasmine, may rose, opoponax. tonka bean, vanilla, iris, Peru balsam, grey amber.

About the brand

Guerlain is one of the iconic houses of French perfumery and is revered for its numerous classics. These include: Jicky (1889), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Habit Rouge (1965), Samsara (1989) and Vetiver (2000). Perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain founded the company in 1828 in Paris. The company was owned by successive generations of the Guerlain family until French luxury giant LVMH bought it in 1994. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s in-house perfumer since 2008.

Guerlain Shalimar - Thierry Wasser

KEEPING IT IN HOUSE: Thierry Wasser is Guerlain’s current perfumer. Image: Guerlain.com.

Impressions

How to review a perfume that’s considered one of the greats of the 20th century? With much trepidation, it seems. I was very hesitant to review it. After all, what could I add to the many expert reviews that has not been said already? Needless to say, this fragrance is too important not to have an opinion about it…

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

Inspired by the love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and Princess Mumtaz Mahal, Shalimar (Sanskrit for “temple of love”), is widely considered to be the first oriental fragrance, according to the brand’s website

“Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown.”

When I apply this fragrance I always first get a thoroughly seductive swirl of citrus notes. It’s a brief hint of freshness, for sure, but not the usual sharpness of citrus notes. It’s more powdery than anything else. That could be due to the simultaneous progression of Shalimar in a floral direction, thanks to the notes of iris, jasmine and rose. Throughout, it’s a warm and intimate scent, which is most prevalent in the drydown. Here, notes of vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood and opoponax are introduced, with incense playing a major role. This smoky quality is one of the defining characterisics of Shalimar, but it’s a delicate treatment to entice the wearer.

Guerlain Shalimar

I could use any number of adjectives to describe Guerlain Shalimar – sensual, enveloping, intoxicating, etc. None of which would do justice to it. The one that seems the best to me is “romantic”, in the best sense of the word.

Verdict

A true and complex classic that’s a Fragrance Of The Century, rather than a Fragrance Of The Month. Little wonder it has spawned numerous flankers over the last decade, the most recent being Shalimar Soufflé de Parfum 2018.

Guerlain Shalimar EDP

To buy in South Africa

From R1 855 (50ml) to R2 450 (90ml), Edgars Sandton, Edgars V&A and Hero Extravagance (Brooklyn Mall).

For more info

https://www.guerlain.com/int/en-int/fragrance/womens-fragrances/shalimar/shalimar-eau-de-parfum-spray

Sources

Fragrantica.com, Wikipedia.com, Guerlain.com

Guerlain Shalimar EDP