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Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur Review

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Something interesting happened in 2015 when Alessandro Michele was appointed creative director of Gucci. Apart from a new direction for the Italian luxury brand’s collections, it started to take much-needed bold risks with its fragrances, too. This was exemplified by the unusual leather fragrance Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP and the heavy florals of Gucci Bloom EDP. The recent launch of Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur EDP builds on that momentum.

It’s a unisex scent, which is pretty much standard in the niche category. But it’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance. Gucci also claims that it’s innovative in that it establishes a new olfactive family, mineral aromatic, but more about that below.

“It’s still rare for a designer brand to market one of its big releases as a universal fragrance.”

Perfumer

Alberto Morillas has created all of the recent Gucci releases. The Spaniard is one of the most prolific perfumers of our time and is well known for a slew of commercial classics. These include Bulgari Man EDT, cK One EDT, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio EDT, Givenchy Pi EDT, Mugler Cologne, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT, Versace Pour Homme EDT and YSL M7 EDT. In 2015, he launched his own perfume company, Mizensir, in Geneva, Switzerland.

The brand stresses that Morillas created Memoire d’une Odeur in close collaboration with Michele. This kind of partnership is not always the case in the creation of a designer fragrance.

MAKING MEMORIES: Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele with Harry Styles, one of the stars of the Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur ad campaign, at the Met Gala in May 2019. Image: Gucci.com.
SO WHAT DOES GUCCI MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR SMELL LIKE?

Memoire d’une Odeur is inspired by the power of memories and their intimate link with the sense of smell.

The first thing that is noticeable about this fragrance is its camomile note. Morillas used the Roman version, which has been grown in the city for a number of centuries. It’s known for its sweetness, but here it has more of a herbal and green character.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

Camomile is commonly paired with jasmine, so it’s no surprise to see the perfumer making use of this duo in the heart of the fragrance. He used an exclusive version of the floral – Indian coral jasmine – to give it a honeyed aspect. It’s not sweet or overpowering in the least. A big dose of musk brings cosy warmth. The woody drydown features notes of cedar and sandalwood. Vanilla enhances the creaminess of the latter.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

What about the claim that this pairing of camomile and jasmine sees the creation of a new olfactive family: mineral aromatic? It’s a little over the top, as it’s not the first time this combination has been used in perfumery. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that Gucci should be applauded for trying something different and that’s not trend-driven.

Gucci Memoire d'Une Odeur

There are already many negative online reviews on this fragrance. Perhaps the high-profile media campaign across all channels created the wrong kind of expectations that it would be an intense experience. Instead, Memoire d’une Odeur is a soothing and soft scent. Using the memories analogy, it’s hazy and blurred, rather than vivid and hyper real. This makes it a far more interesting proposition.

R1 195 for 40ml, R1 635 for 60ml and R2 225 for 100ml. For more information, read here.. 

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Best Statement Fragrances

Statement Fragrances

Sometimes you want to make an indelible style statement and one of the best ways to do that is with an unusual and highly distinctive fragrance. The statement fragrances on this list are not for everyone, but they will make a lasting impression.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

Do you have any favourite statement fragrances?

COMME DES GARCONS BLACKPEPPER EDP*

The Japanese fashion brand celebrates its 25th year in the fragrance biz in 2019. Blackpepper EDP is a good reminder why it is so respected for its contribution to modern perfumery.

The scent kicks off with a twist of Madagascan black pepper. It’s beautifully authentic and guaranteed to satisfy fans of the spice. It subsides fairly quickly and gives way to a combo of cedarwood and Akigalawood (the perfume compound with oud and patchouli characteristics). It settles on a warm and comforting base of tonka bean and musk notes.

DIPTYQUE OUD PALAO EDP*

Oud is one of the most precious and distinctive ingredients in perfumery. The Paris-based niche fragrance house makes the most of it in this 2015 release. Western-style oud fragrances are often toned-down versions. But there’s no mistaking its presence in this oriental EDP.

The brand claims to use the palao variety from Laos, hence the fragrance’s name. Rich, dark and slightly sweet, it’s perfectly paired with a velvety rose note, while a tobacco note adds to the seductive sweetness. The base features high-quality vanilla and patchouli. They bring earthiness to the gorgeous mix.

Statement Fragrances

ORTO PARISI BOCCANERA EDP* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri is best described as a maverick. He founded his company Orto Parisi in 2014 and has released eight EDPs since then. All of them are highly potent and unique statement fragrances. Be warned: There’s no middle ground with his creations.

A gourmand fragrance with a twist, Boccanera opens with hints of warm and spicy black pepper and chilli pepper. Ginger adds to the spicy effect, without overwhelming it. It doesn’t take long for the main note of dark chocolate to come through. Rich, dark and delicious, it’s complemented by base notes of sandalwood and musk.

Statement Fragrances

NASOMATTO BLACK AFGANO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Before Gualtieri founded Orto Parisi, he made his name with his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which he launched in 2008. Black Afgano is the company’s most famous/infamous release and “aims to evoke the best quality of hashish”, according to the brand’s website.

Gualtieri is renowned for not explaining his fragrances in terms of notes, but he achieves this exact effect with a strong cannabis vibe. However, what could be the perfume equivalent of a joint is made more interesting with the addition of resins, wood, oud, incense and tobacco notes. It’s a true extrait de parfum. So best apply this one lightly and think twice before wearing it to the corporate boardroom.

Statement Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

This close collaboration between master perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was a very brave release for Gucci when it was launched in 2017. It’s not a get-as-many-as-you-can designer fragrance crowd-pleaser.

Its listed notes include a custom-made leather accord (WoodLeather), a natural extract of the nootka cypress (GoldenWood), three types of patchouli and vetiver. All of this adds up to create a rich, woody-leathery EDP that’s most intriguing. The deep leather vibe pays respectful homage to Gucci’s luxury leather goods heritage.

Statement Fragrances

KILIAN LOVE, DON’T BE SHY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

Much like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid EDP was originally aimed at women, but found a following among men, Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy has done the crossover thing. Rihanna recently revealed that this is one of her favourite perfumes. One sniff of this floral gourmand from the Paris-based niche brand’s The Narcotics collection will tell you why.

A shot of citrusy neroli is followed by a bouquet of floral notes (orange blossom absolute, jasmine, honeysuckle). But it’s the marshmallow accord that makes this one irresistible. It’s sweet for sure, but so well composed, you’ll keep on coming back for more.

Statement Fragrances

DS & DURGA BOWMAKERS EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Conceptual fragrances often fail in their execution, but self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz is a bit of whizz in this area. This is one of his standout creations.

The story behind this fragrance is worth quoting, as it will give you an idea of where he was coming from. “Amid the transcendental woods of the 1800s, craftsmen from the Massachusetts Bay Colony built violins and bows. Old growth mahogany, burled maple shavings, amber pine rosin, aged walnut and unique secret varnishes.” It actually does open with a violin varnish note and the mood is wonderfully maintained throughout the scent with an array of woody notes that includes mahogany, maple, cypress and cedar. Resins and moss complete the evocative picture.

Statement Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, Timbuktu is a fragrance like no other. Launched in 2004, it has lost none of its power to captivate. It’s one of my favourite statement fragrances.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its seductive way through the heart of the fragrance, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keeps on coming with vetiver and patchouli notes. They are slightly sweetened by a dose of myrrh. For an EDT, this is surprisingly intense stuff.

Statement Fragrances

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original A*Men was launched in 1996 and each edition manages to add something different to the theme. Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom, but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection.

It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while amber keeps it warm and cosy.

Statement Fragrances

* Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Gabrielle Chanel Essence Review

When Gabrielle Chanel EDP was launched over two years ago, it was declared “boring” by many bloggers and online reviewers. I disagreed and you can read that post here. So I was very much looking forward to the launch of its first flanker, Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP, in September 2019. As with its predecessor, it’s inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GABRIELLE CHANEL AND GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE?

The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right. I won’t give you a note-by-note comparison; suffice to say that Gabrielle Chanel Essence EDP has a richer and denser character.

“Gabrielle Chanel Essence has a richer and denser character than its predecessor.”

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background.

There’s no doubting that this is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who also created the original, has not skimped on the ingredients. These include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and a variety of tuberose grown exclusively for the French luxury company in Grasse. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence
MASTER: Olivier Polge is Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image: Chanel.

This tuberose deserves a special mention. It’s undoubtedly the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. Polge is too clever a perfumer for that. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

I’ve been wearing this EDP regularly for the last three weeks and am relishing the details in this composition. Although I don’t wear fragrances specifically to get compliments, it seems many other people are enjoying it too.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence, R2 570 for 100ml. For more info, read here.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence

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Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment Review

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment

I need no persuasion to try out Elizabeth Arden products, as I’ve always found them to be reliable, packed with ingredients that actually work and value for money. I’m also a sucker for anti-ageing treatments. After all, I am heading for 50 in a few months. So it was a no-brainer when the PR kindly sent me Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment to review.

Prevage is the American beauty brand’s more upmarket anti-ageing range. A skin peel is a great way to exfoliate the skin and promote cell turnover, but can cause irritations. Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment takes the skin peel to a new level of efficiency with a four-week programme of increasingly stronger formulas. There’s a week’s supply of product in each of the four ampules that come in a slick-looking box. The brand promises that you will see results with every week of usage.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment

So what’s in these ampules? Each contains a dose of powerful skin-resurfacing ingredients. These include: polyhydroxy and alpha hydroxy acids to gently exfoliate the skin; phosphate salts to help maintain low skin pH; and the antioxidant Idebenone, which protects against ageing environmental aggressors.

As instructed, I’ve been using this product every night after cleansing and am impressed with the results so far. I’m currently on my last ampule. The tone of my skin has improved significantly and there’s a freshness to it. I don’t like finicky regimes and at first, I thought would find the mixing process a hassle, but no such worries.

This treatment is certainly on the pricey side. But for the expense, you’re getting a highly effective anti-ageing treatment that delivers on its promises. Compared to some other premium anti-ageing ranges, it’s competitively priced.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment, R2 100 for 4 x 10ml ampules. For more information, read here. 

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Vetiver Fragrances: From The Fabulously Fresh To The Deliciously Sweet

Vetiver Fragrances

I love many notes in perfumery, but I have a particular soft spot for vetiver fragrances. Depending on how it is used, it can give a fragrance a distinctive earthy, woody or fresh quality. As there is no synthetic version of vetiver, the roots of this perennial grass are prized for their oil. Indonesia, India and especially Haiti are major producers of vetiver.

There are numerous fragrances on the market that claim to have it. I’ve compiled a list of vetiver fragrances where you can actually smell it. All too often this most natural of ingredients is barely present in your common garden variety scents. I’ve also not included the undisputed and more well-known classics in the genre (for example, Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP and Guerlain Vetiver EDP). Instead, this list gives you a list of other options if you also have a thing for vetiver fragrances.

Vetiver Fragrances

Where known, the name of the perfumer is mentioned in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

CREED ORIGINAL VETIVER EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION & ERWIN CREED SEVENTH GENERATION)

Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, mandarin, vetiver leaves, white pepper, coriander, pink berries, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk. 

While most perfumers use the root of the plant for their vetiver fragrances, Creed claims their version utilises all three parts, including the root, the heart and the leaves. Ginger is not listed in the official notes on the Creed website, but there’s no mistaking its presence in this scent with its sharp citrus opening. The vetiver comes through soon after that and lingers until the end. It’s a fresh and green rendition. The hint of precious ambergris in the base is just one of the reasons why you’ll be paying a lot for this upmarket fragrance.

Vetiver Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver.

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this scent. The tone is set from the opening with its citrus opening and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the base. It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances and holds the attention from start to finish.

Vetiver Fragrances

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Notes: Blood orange, pink grapefruit, mint, vetiver, geranium, rose, ambroxan, patchouli, mint.

Karl Lagerfeld fragrances haven’t always been the most consistent in quality. This is one of the brand’s best in recent years. If you generally go for unashamedly earthy vetiver fragrances, allow yourself to enjoy this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through, it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. At its best in summer, it’s a worthy and well-priced addition to your vetiver collection.

Vetiver Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE VETIVER FATAL COLOGNE ABSOLUE

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Tunisian orange blossom, violet leaf, plum, Haitian vetiver, cedar, agarwood.

It sounds dramatic and dark, but this cologne absolue (the Paris-based niche fragrance company’s combo of the traditional citrus character of eau de colognes with longer-lasting natural raw materials) is actually one big blast of summer freshness. The citrus opening is as crisp as they come and is complemented by a big dose of juicy plum. The woody quality of the Haitian vetiver is carried through to the cedar and oud notes. If you’re worried that it will have typical cologne performance, fear not. It says put and works it charms better than most.

Vetiver Fragrances

CARVEN VETIVER EDT

Notes: Grapefruit, lemongrass, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver.

Launched in 1957, Carven Vetiver EDT is one of the classics of the genre and is not to be confused with this 2014 edition, which is a standout in its own right. It makes its mark right from the start with a lively green freshness, courtesy of grapefruit, bergamot and lemon notes. The unusual lemongrass and lavender notes amplify the clean effect. Led by vetiver, together with notes of cedarwood and sandalwood, the base is wonderfully woody.

Vetiver Fragrances

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HIM BLEU NOIR EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Notes: Cedar, vetiver, amber, musk, ebony.

Don’t let the short list of notes fool you. This 2018 follow-up to Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT is more complex than that. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterized by a large dose of musk and this note sits at the heart of For Him Bleu Noir EDP. It’s intensely woody and the vetiver infuses the composition with a green freshness. Perfumer Sonia Constant is well known for creations such as Tom Ford Noir Extreme EDP and Montblanc Emblem EDT. Look out for the African-inspired vetiver-dominant Epupa Mon Amour EDP from her own perfume range, Ella K.

Vetiver Fragrances

DIPTYQUE VETYVERIO EDP (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, Amalfi lemon, mandarin orange, ylang-ylang, rose, geranium, carrot seeds, nutmeg, clove, vetiver, cedar, musk.

Diptyque has been in the fragrance biz since 1961 and Vetyverio EDP is typical of the quality and craftsmanship that define the Paris-based niche fragrance brand. It opens in familiar fresh citrus territory, but gets really interesting in the heart, in particular the rose and geranium notes. They give this unisex scent a powdery freshness, with a light spiciness in the background. Responsibly sourced in Haiti and Indonesia, according to the brand’s website, the vetiver here is crisp and grassy. The musk note adds warmth to the distinctive mix.

Vetiver Fragrances

DS & DURGA COWBOY GRASS EDP (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Notes: Rosewood, wild thyme, bergamot, sagebrush, basil, rose otto, vetiver, grass, ambergris.

The list of notes above alone will tell you that this is not one of your average vetiver fragrances. But then it is a release from the NYC-based niche fragrance company whose self-taught perfumer, David Seth Moltz, has an idiosyncratic style. It kicks off with a herbal accent, courtesy of pronounced notes of thyme, sagebrush and basil. They create an utterly believable wild and natural ambience. Rose otto (oil) is produced by hydro-distilling rose petals and it adds richness to the composition. The grassiness of the vetiver is pushed to the max in combination with the grass note.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Notes: Labdanum, Haitian vetiver, pepper, guaiac wood, cedar, olibanum, amber, bergamot, vanilla, cloves. 

Long before it was trendy to hero individual ingredients, NYC-based niche fragrance house Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name of the fragrance comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it. It’s a unisex scent, but with a decidedly “masculine” profile. There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with pepper and clove notes at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra depth by the olibanum (frankincense) note.

Vetiver Fragrances

VILHELM PARFUMERIE SMOKE SHOW EDP (JEROME EPINETTE)

Notes: Pink pepper, saffron, rose oil, leather, vetiver, cedar, oud.

NYC-based niche fragrance house Vilhelm Parfumerie was founded in 2015 and has released a number of very good fragrances since then, including The Oud Affair EDP and Morning Chess EDP. Featuring notes of pink pepper and saffron, the opening is soft and spicy, followed by a smooth leather note. The luxurious rose oil adds an element of slight sweetness. Oud is the dominant note in this unisex fragrance, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of vetiver to the overall smokiness.

Vetiver Fragrances

HERMES TERRE D’HERMES EAU INTENSE VETIVER EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, geranium, Sichuan pepper, vetiver, amberwood, patchouli, olibanum.

Terre d’Hermès is a vetiver great, but this 2018 version is well worth sniffing out too. It’s not a complete reinvention of the original, yet still offers something unique and complex. The original opened with a magnificent orange note, whereas this fresher one goes the slightly bitter bergamot route, with grapefruit in support. Pepper can be overpowering, but it’s perfectly balanced by the geranium note. The vetiver is certainly intense and its innate earthiness is brought to the fore with a light dash of patchouli.

Vetiver Fragrances

 

 

 

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Dior Sauvage Parfum Review

The arrival of Dior Sauvage Parfum in September 2019 is no surprise. The French luxury brand launched Dior Sauvage EDT in 2015 and Dior Sauvage EDP in 2018. Both have been huge successes. The fact that Chanel had also launched the parfum version of its mega-seller, Bleu de Chanel, in 2018 meant it was just a matter of time for Dior Sauvage Parfum to hit the shelves.

PERFUMER

All three versions of Dior Sauvage have been created by François Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer. Demachy is something of a legend in fragrance circles and has created a number of standouts in his illustrious career. These include Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT and numerous fragrances for Dior La Collection Privée.

Dior Sauvage Parfum - François Demachy
Image: Dior.
SO WHAT DOES DIOR SAUVAGE PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of Dior Sauvage Parfum is all about freshness. Calabrian bergamot and mandarin notes give it some juicy oomph, while cardamom brings a dash of warm spice and elemi adds an element of smokiness. Taking their cue from the cardamom and elemi, Virginia cedar and a leather accord add more warmth. A raspberry note is just detectable in the background.

“The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.”

But it’s the smooth and creamy sandalwood that’s really prominent in this stage of the fragrance’s progression. The brand claims that this ingredient is sourced from a Sri Lankan plantation where the trees are grown wild after initially being cultivated for a few years. The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.

Dior Sauvage Parfum is smoother, richer and more sophisticated than its predecessors. Unlike them, it is not defined by a big dose of ambroxan. For a parfum, its performance is not particularly powerful, which might bother those who want their fragrances on the “beastly” side. But if you prefer a more personal experience with your fragrance of choice, you will find much to enjoy.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

So the big question: Which version is better? I prefer the parfum for its subtlety and the way it adroitly marries the two sides of its character: freshness and smoothness. The first few times I tried it, I liked it, but didn’t really notice it much. The more I wear and smell it, the more I am loving Demachy’s nocturnal direction.

R1 745 for 60ml and R2 430 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

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Boozy Fragrances: 9 Of The Best

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

We all know that alcohol is a major component of most perfumes. But that’s not the subject of this list. I’m talking about the special appeal of boozy fragrances. They often have something seductive and mysterious about them.

The variety of boozy notes ranges from the familiar to the exotic. Rum, whiskey, gin and absinthe notes are popular choices when it comes to boozy fragrances. But you can also find scents with sake, tequila and white wine notes. Boozy fragrances tend to range from the heavy and noticeable to the subtle and nuanced. I’ve included a mix of those styles here. Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

PENHALIGON’S JUNIPER SLING EDT* (OLIVIER CRESP)

Key notes: Cinnamon, orange brandy, angelica, juniper berry, cardamom, leather, black pepper, orris wood, brown sugar, black cherry, vetiver, ambrox.

Wear it if… You want the unmistakable aromatic waft of gin. Inspired by the quality of London dry gin, juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive flavour, open this EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern classic than its boozy intro. A cocktail of citrus, spice and a hint of sugar all complement each other. Vetiver-lovers will also appreciate its presence. This is a skin scent, so if you’re looking for a power performer, alas, this one is not for you.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

JOHN VARVATOS DARK REBEL EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

Key notes: Jamaican rum absolute, Cuban sugarcane, davana essence, cardamom absolute, clary sage-enriched essence, black leather, fir balsam, nutmeg, black pepper, styrax absolute, tobacco leaf accord, Mexican black vanilla, akigalawood, cade essence, castoreum, balsawood. 

Wear it if… You want a designer fragrance that oozes rock ’n roll attitude, even if you’re not a rebel at heart. As always, there’s an intimidatingly long list of notes in this John Varvatos 2015 release. To simplify things, it opens with a shot of rum that develops with sensual facets of tobacco, leather and woods. It gets the balance between sweet and dark just right.

Boozy Fragrances - John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT

PENHALIGON’S MUCH ADO ABOUT THE DUKE EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Key notes: Rose, leather, gin, black pepper, wood.

Wear it if… You want a very British niche fragrance. The niche heritage brand launched its charming Portraits collection in 2016. It features an assortment of aristocratic characters and EDPs with names such as Roaring Radcliff, The Blazing Mr Sam and Terrible Teddy. Although rose is the focus of this scent, there’s a lovely dash of gin that’s very elegant in its simplicity. You’ll be paying top dollar for this one, but wait till you see the packaging, from the bottle’s cap to the ornate box it comes in.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Much Ado About The Duke EDP

CAROLINA HERRERA CH MEN PRIVE EDP

Key notes: Grapefruit, pomelo, whiskey, frozen lavender, sage, red thyme, cardamom, leather, benzoin, tonka bean, wood.

Wear it if… You want a super-smooth and -sophisticated scent. There’s good reason why this release from 2015 is regarded as one of the best Carolina Herrera releases in recent years. It opens with a warm and understated waft of whiskey enhanced by cardamom, leather and tonka bean notes. It’s a seamless blend that’s tailor-made for the office and fancy occasions.

Boozy Fragrances - Carolina Herrera CH Men Prive EDP

KILIAN VODKA ON THE ROCKS EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

Key notes: Cardamom, coriander, aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, rhubarb, rose, oakmoss, ambroxan, sandalwood.

Wear it if… You want an upmarket niche fragrance scent with a vodka-lite vibe. It must be Kilian Hennessy’s cognac-making heritage, as several of his fragrances have a boozy character, including Single Malt EDP, Straight to Heaven EDP and Apple Brandy EDP. Although vodka is not an officially listed note in this unisex EDP, the opening notes of cardamom, coriander and aldehydes skilfully create the effect of this spirit on ice. It’s a light treatment that’s followed by pronounced notes of rose, oakmoss and cardamom.

Boozy Fragrances - Kilian Vodka On The Rocks EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Key notes: Black currant, wormwood, angelica, ginger, patchouli, pepper, nutmeg, star anise, cloves, incense, balsam fir, pine tree needles.

Wear it if… You want a classic scent that’s full of intriguing nuances. A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This is not one of those fragrances. Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, headlines this unisex EDP as its opening note. The initial herbal effect is carried through to the heart, with the addition of spices. It all settles beautifully on a woody and smoky base.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Key notes: Precious aged rum, black cardamom, Taif rose, tuberose, tanned leather accord, oud accord.

Wear it if… You want a sexy oriental fragrance with a hint of rum. Bulgari Man was originally launched in 2010 and Black Orient, which was launched in 2016, is one of its best flankers. A rum and cardamom combo sets the tone for this EDP. The floral heart gives way to an irresistible leather-oud combo. It’s straightforward stuff, but highly effective in the way all the notes work together.

Boozy Fragrances - Bulgari Man Black Orient EDP

BENTLEY FOR MEN INTENSE EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

Key notes: Bergamot, black pepper, bay leaf, clary sage, African geranium, cinnamon, rum, wood, leather, benzoin, incense, cedar, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a solid and timeless fragrance. Many people are surprised to find out that Bentley is in the fragrance game. What’s not surprising is the quality of releases from the British luxury automotive brand. All their fragrances have been created by top perfumers. Launched in 2013, Bentley for Men EDT set the luxurious and sophisticated tone for their scents. Its first flanker, Bentley for Men Intense EDP, took it to another level of classiness. The rum note stands out in this oriental-spicy composition, with incense, leather and wood adding to its appeal.

Boozy Fragrances - Bentley For Men Intense EDP

CREED ROYAL MAYFAIR EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Key notes: British gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine, Duke of Windsor roses, Bahamian orange, Canadian cedar, Australian eucalyptus.

Wear it if… You want a posh scent with British sensibilities. There’s good reason why I often include Creed fragrances on my “best of” lists. They are high-quality releases that reflect their inspiration so well. Inspired by the upmarket London suburb of Mayfair, which also happens to be home to the brand’s London boutique, Royal Mayfair is a luxurious fresh, green scent. The gin opening sets the scene and is followed by standout notes of rose and eucalyptus.

Boozy Fragrances - Creed Royal Mayfair EDP

*Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

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Rodrigo Flores-Roux Interview: “I Like Perfumes Big And Bold And To Make A Statement”

Rodrigo Flores-Roux
Images of Rodrigo Flores-Roux: Givaudan.

I’ve been thrilled to interview several perfumers since the launch of my blog in 2016. Most of these have been email interviews, though. So I was particularly excited when I got the opportunity to chat on the phone with Mexican-born perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

My first introduction to a Rodrigo-Flores Roux fragrance was the perfectly named Clinique Happy EDT, although I didn’t know at the time it was one of his creations. More recently, I’ve loved his fragrances for the American designer John Varvatos.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT

These above-mentioned fragrances only touch the surface of the variety of fragrances Rodrigo Flores-Roux has created over the past two decades. A squiz at the list below will tell you why he’s so well regarded in the industry:

  • Donna Karan Black Cashmere EDP (2002)
  • Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Vetiver EDP (2011)
  • Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP (2011)
  • Arquiste Anima Dulcis EDP (2014)
  • Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP (2014)
  • Commodity Leather EDP (2017)
  • Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT (2017)
  • Frassai A Fuego Lento EDP (2018)

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

Rodrigo Flores-Roux called me from the New York studio of Givaudan, the fragrance company where he holds the position of senior creative perfumer/vice-president perfumery. From the short time we spoke together,  his passion for his work was unmistakable, and his strong Mexican accent just added to his charm.

Do you remember any fragrances from your childhood?

Yes, many. There were lots of conversations around perfume. My mother adored very sophisticated, very French perfumes such as Lancôme Magie Noire. My grandmothers wore Lanvin and Caron perfumes.

You studied at ISIPCA and had an internship with Jean-Claude Ellena. What did you gain most from that experience?

He taught me many things, which I still apply to my work today. For example, he taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not.

Apart from smart formulation, he also taught me that the most important sense in perfumery is not just smell – it’s hearing and listening.

“Jean Claude-Ellena taught me that the most important sense in perfumery is not just smell – it’s hearing and listening.”

What was the first fragrance you created? What do you think about it now?

In the international sphere, I was fortunate to have co-created Clinique Happy with Jean-Claude Delville. That fragrance is now a historical, classic reference. We were onto something there, experimenting with new fruity, citrus, spicy, floral notes. It’s emotionally connecting. The name is perfect for the smell. It was launched on June 7 1997, so it just turned 22 years old.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Clinique Happy EDT

What’s essential when you create a fragrance?

First of all, I want to communicate pleasure and a love of life. There is a place for delicate perfumes, but that’s not my scene. I like them big and bold and to make a statement. Another important thing for me is love. You put so much love into your perfumes so when someone chooses to make them a part of their life because they love your work, that’s the reaction I want.

Tell us about some of the perfume projects you have just finished working on.

I’ve very proud of Aether Suprae. It’s a very short formula and has the biggest dose of a captive material that Givaudan has been playing around with for years – Akigalawood. It comes and goes and has a bit of a presence like a ghost.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Aether Suprae EDP

I’ve also finished working on White Diamonds En Rouge by Elizabeth Taylor. It’s been chosen by the Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation to help raise funds and awareness. In the year of the anniversary of the Stonewall riots, I am very happy to be helping a cause that has touched the gay community so much. It’s an unusual perfume and I put a lot of love into it.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds En Rouge EDT

You’ve created most of the John Varvatos fragrances. I have several of them in my collection. Why do you enjoy working on this brand so much?

Thank you. Apart from the Nick Jonas collaborations, there have been 15 fragrances in 15 years. Not bad for a record. John and I click together. Some of the fragrances are now considered classics, such as the original, and Artisan celebrated its 10th anniversary this year, which is very cool.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

I especially enjoy John Varvatos Dark Rebel and Dark Rebel Rider.

Those perfumes were John and I exploring the vision of light and dark together. They are very well liked by connoisseurs. Thank you for that.

Have you ever had to compromise your vision on a fragrance project? How do you deal with that?

I would be lying if I said that I have never compromised. As a perfumer you don’t make a perfume alone. There’s many factors to consider. Number one, what is the client looking for? That’s where listening becomes so important. We’re committed to a mutual success, so then it’s a case of ok, let’s give that a try. Many good things happen like that.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP

Is there a particular ingredient you don’t like working with?

Anything that’s very sugary, very caramel-y, very gourmand is not exactly my taste. I don’t think I’ve ever used everlasting flower successfully in a fragrance. On the other side, I am very comfortable with citruses and I love florals and leather.

There are some terrible gourmands on the market.

I didn’t use the word “terrible” [laughs]. In Mexico we always say that perfumes are made for different tastes. There are a lot of perfumes that serve a purpose on the market.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

 

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Good Oral Hygiene 101: Tips, Techniques & Tools

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Expanding Floss

A few months ago I mentioned my “dental issues” in a post. I will spare you the gory details and pics, suffice to say that gingival recession (or receding gums) is my thing, if I do not always adhere to the basics of good oral hygiene.

If I am brutally honest with myself (ouch!), a bad combo of laziness and forgetfulness is largely responsible for this state of affairs. So I need all the reminders, tools and advice I can get if I don’t want to become even “longer in the tooth”.

“I need all the reminders, tools and advice I can get if I don’t want to become even ‘longer in the tooth’.”

USING THE RIGHT TOOLS

The South African PR for Sunstar, the Swiss healthcare company, read my post and kindly sent me a pack of Sunstar GUM oral hygiene products to try out. I have found the ones below particularly useful in complementing my twice-daily brushing.

Sunstar GUM Expanding Floss

Recommended if you have small gaps between the teeth, sensitive or receding gums. It expands when you use it. R60.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Expanding Floss

Sunstar GUM Easy-Flossers

Small handles with waxed floss to remove plaque between the teeth and below the gum line. R56.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Easy-Flossers

Sunstar GUM Soft-Picks Advanced

Disposable dental picks with soft rubber bristles that remove plaque and debris while gently massaging and stimulating the gums. R89.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Soft-Picks Advanced

Sunstar GUM Flosbrush Automatic

A gadget that features floss built into an ergonomically-designed handle. A click dispenses a fresh measure of floss. Once used, the floss is stored separately within the handle. R116.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Flosbrush Automatic

Sunstar GUM Tongue Cleaner

A two-sided tool – bristles to gently brush and a serrated edge to wipe the surface clean – to remove plaque and food debris from the surface of the tongue. R57.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Tongue Cleaner

ORAL HYGIENE 101

Using the right tools correctly is an essential part of good oral hygiene, but I also sought the advice of Dirna Grobbelaar, Ivohealth’s oral care advisor. Dirna qualified as an oral hygienist at the University of Stellenbosch in 1999 and is accredited by the Swiss Dental Academy.

Why is dental health so important? In what way does lack of oral hygiene impact on one’s overall health?

A healthy mouth is essential for a healthy life. We all have different oral flora in our mouth, including good and bad bacteria. If you have gum disease, you have more bad than good bacteria, usually because of insufficient plaque control.

When you have gum disease (you may notice your gums are red, swollen or bleed when brushing or flossing), the “bad” get into your bloodstream and circulates through your body. This can cause all kinds of other problems. Gum disease is linked to systemic diseases like diabetes, heart and lung problems, premature and underweight babies, and even erectile dysfunction.

“When you have gum disease the ‘bad’ bacteria gets into your bloodstream and circulates through your body.”

Gum disease in the early stages is reversible, but in the later stages can lead to tooth loss.

What are the signs of poor oral hygiene?

  • Bad breath
  • Sensitive gums
  • Red, swollen, bleeding gums
  • Yellow and dull teeth
  • Cavities/dental caries

What are the essentials of oral hygiene? Are there any steps to follow?

Brush your teeth for two minutes twice a day with toothpaste, using a manual or power brush. Don’t rinse with water straight after brushing. Simply spit out any excess toothpaste. Using a toothpaste or mouth rinse that contains fluoride will lower your chances of developing cavities.

Good Oral Hygiene - Dentyl Dual Action Alcohol-Free Mouth Wash

Clean in-between the teeth every day, using floss or another tool, such as picks or interdental brushes. If you’re not sure how to do it correctly, or what tool to use, ask your dentist or oral hygienist. Because so many people don’t floss correctly, we created videos on how to floss like a boss, even if you have braces or implants.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Soft-Picks Advanced

Rinse, either as a final step, after eating, or when brushing isn’t possible. Use an alcohol-free mouthwash containing fluoride, or chew sugar-free gum to stimulate saliva and naturally “rinse” the mouth.

Is flossing as important as it’s made out to be?

Flossing is important, but I don’t like to use the word “flossing”. I prefer to say that you need to clean in-between the teeth with whatever tool you prefer.

The teeth have five sides and brushing can only reach three. Often decay and gum disease starts in between the teeth where brushing doesn’t reach.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Easy-Flossers

How often should one visit a dentist and oral hygienist?

Prevention, early detection and prompt treatment will help reduce the risk of oral diseases and ensure the best treatment outcome. See a dentist at least once a year and ideally have a professional cleaning every six months. The dentist or oral hygienist can remove plaque and tartar that you are unable to remove by brushing. If not removed, the build-up will irritate the gums and cause gum disease.

For more info on Sunstar GUM products, see here. They are available from selected Checkers, Clicks, Dis-Chem, Pick n Pay and SPAR stores, as well as dentists and pharmacies.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Expaning Floss

 

 

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Christian Dior Oud Ispahan Review

Dior Oud Ispahan

Christian Dior launched its luxury private fragrance range, La Collection Privée, in 2004 with three fragrances. Since then it has evolved into a fully fledged line of highly desirable scents divided into categories such as Sensuals, Orientals, Florals, Light Florals and Fruity Florals. The floral oriental Dior Oud Ispahan was launched in 2012 and is widely regarded as one of the best oud fragrances on the market.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Perfumer

As the brand’s perfumer, François Demachy has created most of the fragrances for La Collection Privée, including Oud Ispahan. The 70-year-old Frenchman is highly respected for his ability to balance commercial and creative success.

Examples of his other work include: Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT, Dior Sauvage (EDT and EDP) and several fragrances in the Dior Pour Homme range. Demachy also produces perfumes for other companies in the French luxury giant LVMH’s stable.

Dior Oud Ispahan - Francois Demachy

So what does Dior Oud Ispahan smell like?

This unisex EDP opens with the distinctive scent of labdanum. Its ambery, slightly leathery quality is warm and enticing. The fragrance sweetens slightly, as the rose note makes its appearance. Don’t be put off by the mention of this initial sweetness – it’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.

“It’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.”

The rose is perfectly partnered with the oud note that follows. Rose and oud combinations have always been popular in Middle Eastern perfumery. Dior Oud Ispahan takes its cue from this tradition, but it’s an undeniably Western take on oud.

While it’s not overwhelming or intensely “exotic”, there’s no doubting that this is the real thing in Dior Oud Ispahan. Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and Demachy makes the most of its woody, resinous aspects. That woodiness is complemented by the sandalwood and cedar notes.

To say that Dior Oud Ispahan is smooth is an understatement. Throughout its progression, it’s silky, yet full of character at the same time.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Packaging/Presentation

La Collection Privée is all about classical elegance and the presentation of these fragrances captures that aesthetic perfectly.

The stately cylindrical bottle was originally designed by fashion visionary Hedi Slimane, who was the creative director of the French luxury brand’s men’s ready-to-wear division at the time of the collection’s launch. A slick magnetic cap features the instantly recognisable Dior logo. Every juice in the collection has a different color. Dior Oud Ispahan has a rosy hue.

Dior Oud Ispahan

You can expect your bottle of Dior Oud Ispahan to be presented in a specially packaged box. The packaging ritual involves several stages – a box, tissue paper, a logoed perfumed cushion, a boxed fragrance, three samples of your choice in a logoed pouch, another bigger pouch, tissue paper sealed with Dior-logoed wax, your choice of colour of string to wrap the box and, the final touch, a Dior wax seal. This fastidious French attention to detail – complemented by professional and friendly customer service – leaves you in no doubt about the luxury experience you’re paying for.

R3 340 for 125ml, R4 965 for 250ml and R6 885 for 450ml.

For more oud options, read here. 

Read my review of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg here.

For more info on Dior’s La Collection Privée,  read here. 

Dior Oud Ispahan