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Dior Sauvage Parfum Review

The arrival of Dior Sauvage Parfum in September 2019 is no surprise. The French luxury brand launched Dior Sauvage EDT in 2015 and Dior Sauvage EDP in 2018. Both have been huge successes. The fact that Chanel had also launched the parfum version of its mega-seller, Bleu de Chanel, in 2018 meant it was just a matter of time for Dior Sauvage Parfum to hit the shelves.

PERFUMER

All three versions of Dior Sauvage have been created by François Demachy, Dior’s in-house perfumer. Demachy is something of a legend in fragrance circles and has created a number of standouts in his illustrious career. These include Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT and numerous fragrances for Dior La Collection Privée.

Dior Sauvage Parfum - François Demachy

Image: Dior.

SO WHAT DOES DIOR SAUVAGE PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of Dior Sauvage Parfum is all about freshness. Calabrian bergamot and mandarin notes give it some juicy oomph, while cardamom brings a dash of warm spice and elemi adds an element of smokiness. Taking their cue from the cardamom and elemi, Virginia cedar and a leather accord add more warmth. A raspberry note is just detectable in the background.

“The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.”

But it’s the smooth and creamy sandalwood that’s really prominent in this stage of the fragrance’s progression. The brand claims that this ingredient is sourced from a Sri Lankan plantation where the trees are grown wild after initially being cultivated for a few years. The base of the fragrance has an oriental vibe, with vanilla absolute and tonka bean keeping things on the right side of sweetness.

Dior Sauvage Parfum is smoother, richer and more sophisticated than its predecessors. Unlike them, it is not defined by a big dose of ambroxan. For a parfum, its performance is not particularly powerful, which might bother those who want their fragrances on the “beastly” side. But if you prefer a more personal experience with your fragrance of choice, you will find much to enjoy.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

So the big question: Which version is better? I prefer the parfum for its subtlety and the way it adroitly marries the two sides of its character: freshness and smoothness. The first few times I tried it, I liked it, but didn’t really notice it much. The more I wear and smell it, the more I am loving Demachy’s nocturnal direction.

R1 745 for 60ml and R2 430 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

Dior Sauvage Parfum

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Boozy Fragrances: 9 Of The Best

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

We all know that alcohol is a major component of most perfumes. But that’s not the subject of this list. I’m talking about the special appeal of boozy fragrances. They often have something seductive and mysterious about them.

The variety of boozy notes ranges from the familiar to the exotic. Rum, whiskey, gin and absinthe notes are popular choices when it comes to boozy fragrances. But you can also find scents with sake, tequila and white wine notes. Boozy fragrances tend to range from the heavy and noticeable to the subtle and nuanced. I’ve included a mix of those styles here. Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

PENHALIGON’S JUNIPER SLING EDT* (OLIVIER CRESP)

Key notes: Cinnamon, orange brandy, angelica, juniper berry, cardamom, leather, black pepper, orris wood, brown sugar, black cherry, vetiver, ambrox.

Wear it if… You want the unmistakable aromatic waft of gin. Inspired by the quality of London dry gin, juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive flavour, open this EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern classic than its boozy intro. A cocktail of citrus, spice and a hint of sugar all complement each other. Vetiver-lovers will also appreciate its presence. This is a skin scent, so if you’re looking for a power performer, alas, this one is not for you.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Juniper Sling EDT

JOHN VARVATOS DARK REBEL EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX)

Key notes: Jamaican rum absolute, Cuban sugarcane, davana essence, cardamom absolute, clary sage-enriched essence, black leather, fir balsam, nutmeg, black pepper, styrax absolute, tobacco leaf accord, Mexican black vanilla, akigalawood, cade essence, castoreum, balsawood. 

Wear it if… You want a designer fragrance that oozes rock ’n roll attitude, even if you’re not a rebel at heart. As always, there’s an intimidatingly long list of notes in this John Varvatos 2015 release. To simplify things, it opens with a shot of rum that develops with sensual facets of tobacco, leather and woods. It gets the balance between sweet and dark just right.

Boozy Fragrances - John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT

PENHALIGON’S MUCH ADO ABOUT THE DUKE EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Key notes: Rose, leather, gin, black pepper, wood.

Wear it if… You want a very British niche fragrance. The niche heritage brand launched its charming Portraits collection in 2016. It features an assortment of aristocratic characters and EDPs with names such as Roaring Radcliff, The Blazing Mr Sam and Terrible Teddy. Although rose is the focus of this scent, there’s a lovely dash of gin that’s very elegant in its simplicity. You’ll be paying top dollar for this one, but wait till you see the packaging, from the bottle’s cap to the ornate box it comes in.

Boozy Fragrances - Penhaligon's Much Ado About The Duke EDP

CAROLINA HERRERA CH MEN PRIVE EDP

Key notes: Grapefruit, pomelo, whiskey, frozen lavender, sage, red thyme, cardamom, leather, benzoin, tonka bean, wood.

Wear it if… You want a super-smooth and -sophisticated scent. There’s good reason why this release from 2015 is regarded as one of the best Carolina Herrera releases in recent years. It opens with a warm and understated waft of whiskey enhanced by cardamom, leather and tonka bean notes. It’s a seamless blend that’s tailor-made for the office and fancy occasions.

Boozy Fragrances - Carolina Herrera CH Men Prive EDP

KILIAN VODKA ON THE ROCKS EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

Key notes: Cardamom, coriander, aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, rhubarb, rose, oakmoss, ambroxan, sandalwood.

Wear it if… You want an upmarket niche fragrance scent with a vodka-lite vibe. It must be Kilian Hennessy’s cognac-making heritage, as several of his fragrances have a boozy character, including Single Malt EDP, Straight to Heaven EDP and Apple Brandy EDP. Although vodka is not an officially listed note in this unisex EDP, the opening notes of cardamom, coriander and aldehydes skilfully create the effect of this spirit on ice. It’s a light treatment that’s followed by pronounced notes of rose, oakmoss and cardamom.

Boozy Fragrances - Kilian Vodka On The Rocks EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Key notes: Black currant, wormwood, angelica, ginger, patchouli, pepper, nutmeg, star anise, cloves, incense, balsam fir, pine tree needles.

Wear it if… You want a classic scent that’s full of intriguing nuances. A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This is not one of those fragrances. Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, headlines this unisex EDP as its opening note. The initial herbal effect is carried through to the heart, with the addition of spices. It all settles beautifully on a woody and smoky base.

Boozy Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

BULGARI MAN BLACK ORIENT EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Key notes: Precious aged rum, black cardamom, Taif rose, tuberose, tanned leather accord, oud accord.

Wear it if… You want a sexy oriental fragrance with a hint of rum. Bulgari Man was originally launched in 2010 and Black Orient, which was launched in 2016, is one of its best flankers. A rum and cardamom combo sets the tone for this EDP. The floral heart gives way to an irresistible leather-oud combo. It’s straightforward stuff, but highly effective in the way all the notes work together.

Boozy Fragrances - Bulgari Man Black Orient EDP

BENTLEY FOR MEN INTENSE EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

Key notes: Bergamot, black pepper, bay leaf, clary sage, African geranium, cinnamon, rum, wood, leather, benzoin, incense, cedar, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a solid and timeless fragrance. Many people are surprised to find out that Bentley is in the fragrance game. What’s not surprising is the quality of releases from the British luxury automotive brand. All their fragrances have been created by top perfumers. Launched in 2013, Bentley for Men EDT set the luxurious and sophisticated tone for their scents. Its first flanker, Bentley for Men Intense EDP, took it to another level of classiness. The rum note stands out in this oriental-spicy composition, with incense, leather and wood adding to its appeal.

Boozy Fragrances - Bentley For Men Intense EDP

CREED ROYAL MAYFAIR EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Key notes: British gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine, Duke of Windsor roses, Bahamian orange, Canadian cedar, Australian eucalyptus.

Wear it if… You want a posh scent with British sensibilities. There’s good reason why I often include Creed fragrances on my “best of” lists. They are high-quality releases that reflect their inspiration so well. Inspired by the upmarket London suburb of Mayfair, which also happens to be home to the brand’s London boutique, Royal Mayfair is a luxurious fresh, green scent. The gin opening sets the scene and is followed by standout notes of rose and eucalyptus.

Boozy Fragrances - Creed Royal Mayfair EDP

*Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

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Rodrigo Flores-Roux Interview: “I Like Perfumes Big And Bold And To Make A Statement”

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Images of Rodrigo Flores-Roux: Givaudan.

I’ve been thrilled to interview several perfumers since the launch of my blog in 2016. Most of these have been email interviews, though. So I was particularly excited when I got the opportunity to chat on the phone with Mexican-born perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

My first introduction to a Rodrigo-Flores Roux fragrance was the perfectly named Clinique Happy EDT, although I didn’t know at the time it was one of his creations. More recently, I’ve loved his fragrances for the American designer John Varvatos.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - John Varvatos Artisan Blu EDT

These above-mentioned fragrances only touch the surface of the variety of fragrances Rodrigo Flores-Roux has created over the past two decades. A squiz at the list below will tell you why he’s so well regarded in the industry:

  • Donna Karan Black Cashmere EDP (2002)
  • Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Vetiver EDP (2011)
  • Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP (2011)
  • Arquiste Anima Dulcis EDP (2014)
  • Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP (2014)
  • Commodity Leather EDP (2017)
  • Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT (2017)
  • Frassai A Fuego Lento EDP (2018)

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

Rodrigo Flores-Roux called me from the New York studio of Givaudan, the fragrance company where he holds the position of senior creative perfumer/vice-president perfumery. From the short time we spoke together,  his passion for his work was unmistakable, and his strong Mexican accent just added to his charm.

Do you remember any fragrances from your childhood?

Yes, many. There were lots of conversations around perfume. My mother adored very sophisticated, very French perfumes such as Lancôme Magie Noire. My grandmothers wore Lanvin and Caron perfumes.

You studied at ISIPCA and had an internship with Jean-Claude Ellena. What did you gain most from that experience?

He taught me many things, which I still apply to my work today. For example, he taught to formulate in such a way that every single raw material has a function, even though he’s a minimalist and I am not.

Apart from smart formulation, he also taught me that the most important sense in perfumery is not just smell – it’s hearing and listening.

“Jean Claude-Ellena taught me that the most important sense in perfumery is not just smell – it’s hearing and listening.”

What was the first fragrance you created? What do you think about it now?

In the international sphere, I was fortunate to have co-created Clinique Happy with Jean-Claude Delville. That fragrance is now a historical, classic reference. We were onto something there, experimenting with new fruity, citrus, spicy, floral notes. It’s emotionally connecting. The name is perfect for the smell. It was launched on June 7 1997, so it just turned 22 years old.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Clinique Happy EDT

What’s essential when you create a fragrance?

First of all, I want to communicate pleasure and a love of life. There is a place for delicate perfumes, but that’s not my scene. I like them big and bold and to make a statement. Another important thing for me is love. You put so much love into your perfumes so when someone chooses to make them a part of their life because they love your work, that’s the reaction I want.

Tell us about some of the perfume projects you have just finished working on.

I’ve very proud of Aether Suprae. It’s a very short formula and has the biggest dose of a captive material that Givaudan has been playing around with for years – Akigalawood. It comes and goes and has a bit of a presence like a ghost.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Aether Suprae EDP

I’ve also finished working on White Diamonds En Rouge by Elizabeth Taylor. It’s been chosen by the Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation to help raise funds and awareness. In the year of the anniversary of the Stonewall riots, I am very happy to be helping a cause that has touched the gay community so much. It’s an unusual perfume and I put a lot of love into it.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds En Rouge EDT

You’ve created most of the John Varvatos fragrances. I have several of them in my collection. Why do you enjoy working on this brand so much?

Thank you. Apart from the Nick Jonas collaborations, there have been 15 fragrances in 15 years. Not bad for a record. John and I click together. Some of the fragrances are now considered classics, such as the original, and Artisan celebrated its 10th anniversary this year, which is very cool.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - John Varvatos Artisan Pure EDT

I especially enjoy John Varvatos Dark Rebel and Dark Rebel Rider.

Those perfumes were John and I exploring the vision of light and dark together. They are very well liked by connoisseurs. Thank you for that.

Have you ever had to compromise your vision on a fragrance project? How do you deal with that?

I would be lying if I said that I have never compromised. As a perfumer you don’t make a perfume alone. There’s many factors to consider. Number one, what is the client looking for? That’s where listening becomes so important. We’re committed to a mutual success, so then it’s a case of ok, let’s give that a try. Many good things happen like that.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux - Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale EDP

Is there a particular ingredient you don’t like working with?

Anything that’s very sugary, very caramel-y, very gourmand is not exactly my taste. I don’t think I’ve ever used everlasting flower successfully in a fragrance. On the other side, I am very comfortable with citruses and I love florals and leather.

There are some terrible gourmands on the market.

I didn’t use the word “terrible” [laughs]. In Mexico we always say that perfumes are made for different tastes. There are a lot of perfumes that serve a purpose on the market.

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

 

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Good Oral Hygiene 101: Tips, Techniques & Tools

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Expanding Floss

A few months ago I mentioned my “dental issues” in a post. I will spare you the gory details and pics, suffice to say that gingival recession (or receding gums) is my thing, if I do not always adhere to the basics of good oral hygiene.

If I am brutally honest with myself (ouch!), a bad combo of laziness and forgetfulness is largely responsible for this state of affairs. So I need all the reminders, tools and advice I can get if I don’t want to become even “longer in the tooth”.

“I need all the reminders, tools and advice I can get if I don’t want to become even ‘longer in the tooth’.”

USING THE RIGHT TOOLS

The South African PR for Sunstar, the Swiss healthcare company, read my post and kindly sent me a pack of Sunstar GUM oral hygiene products to try out. I have found the ones below particularly useful in complementing my twice-daily brushing.

Sunstar GUM Expanding Floss

Recommended if you have small gaps between the teeth, sensitive or receding gums. It expands when you use it. R60.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Expanding Floss

Sunstar GUM Easy-Flossers

Small handles with waxed floss to remove plaque between the teeth and below the gum line. R56.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Easy-Flossers

Sunstar GUM Soft-Picks Advanced

Disposable dental picks with soft rubber bristles that remove plaque and debris while gently massaging and stimulating the gums. R89.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Soft-Picks Advanced

Sunstar GUM Flosbrush Automatic

A gadget that features floss built into an ergonomically-designed handle. A click dispenses a fresh measure of floss. Once used, the floss is stored separately within the handle. R116.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Flosbrush Automatic

Sunstar GUM Tongue Cleaner

A two-sided tool – bristles to gently brush and a serrated edge to wipe the surface clean – to remove plaque and food debris from the surface of the tongue. R57.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Tongue Cleaner

ORAL HYGIENE 101

Using the right tools correctly is an essential part of good oral hygiene, but I also sought the advice of Dirna Grobbelaar, Ivohealth’s oral care advisor. Dirna qualified as an oral hygienist at the University of Stellenbosch in 1999 and is accredited by the Swiss Dental Academy.

Why is dental health so important? In what way does lack of oral hygiene impact on one’s overall health?

A healthy mouth is essential for a healthy life. We all have different oral flora in our mouth, including good and bad bacteria. If you have gum disease, you have more bad than good bacteria, usually because of insufficient plaque control.

When you have gum disease (you may notice your gums are red, swollen or bleed when brushing or flossing), the “bad” get into your bloodstream and circulates through your body. This can cause all kinds of other problems. Gum disease is linked to systemic diseases like diabetes, heart and lung problems, premature and underweight babies, and even erectile dysfunction.

“When you have gum disease the ‘bad’ bacteria gets into your bloodstream and circulates through your body.”

Gum disease in the early stages is reversible, but in the later stages can lead to tooth loss.

What are the signs of poor oral hygiene?

  • Bad breath
  • Sensitive gums
  • Red, swollen, bleeding gums
  • Yellow and dull teeth
  • Cavities/dental caries

What are the essentials of oral hygiene? Are there any steps to follow?

Brush your teeth for two minutes twice a day with toothpaste, using a manual or power brush. Don’t rinse with water straight after brushing. Simply spit out any excess toothpaste. Using a toothpaste or mouth rinse that contains fluoride will lower your chances of developing cavities.

Good Oral Hygiene - Dentyl Dual Action Alcohol-Free Mouth Wash

Clean in-between the teeth every day, using floss or another tool, such as picks or interdental brushes. If you’re not sure how to do it correctly, or what tool to use, ask your dentist or oral hygienist. Because so many people don’t floss correctly, we created videos on how to floss like a boss, even if you have braces or implants.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Soft-Picks Advanced

Rinse, either as a final step, after eating, or when brushing isn’t possible. Use an alcohol-free mouthwash containing fluoride, or chew sugar-free gum to stimulate saliva and naturally “rinse” the mouth.

Is flossing as important as it’s made out to be?

Flossing is important, but I don’t like to use the word “flossing”. I prefer to say that you need to clean in-between the teeth with whatever tool you prefer.

The teeth have five sides and brushing can only reach three. Often decay and gum disease starts in between the teeth where brushing doesn’t reach.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Easy-Flossers

How often should one visit a dentist and oral hygienist?

Prevention, early detection and prompt treatment will help reduce the risk of oral diseases and ensure the best treatment outcome. See a dentist at least once a year and ideally have a professional cleaning every six months. The dentist or oral hygienist can remove plaque and tartar that you are unable to remove by brushing. If not removed, the build-up will irritate the gums and cause gum disease.

For more info on Sunstar GUM products, see here. They are available from selected Checkers, Clicks, Dis-Chem, Pick n Pay and SPAR stores, as well as dentists and pharmacies.

Good Oral Hygiene - Sunstar GUM Expaning Floss

 

 

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Christian Dior Oud Ispahan Review

Dior Oud Ispahan

Christian Dior launched its luxury private fragrance range, La Collection Privée, in 2004 with three fragrances. Since then it has evolved into a fully fledged line of highly desirable scents divided into categories such as Sensuals, Orientals, Florals, Light Florals and Fruity Florals. The floral oriental Dior Oud Ispahan was launched in 2012 and is widely regarded as one of the best oud fragrances on the market.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Perfumer

As the brand’s perfumer, François Demachy has created most of the fragrances for La Collection Privée, including Oud Ispahan. The 70-year-old Frenchman is highly respected for his ability to balance commercial and creative success.

Examples of his other work include: Emanuel Ungaro Pour L’Homme EDT, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, Fan di Fendi Pour Homme EDT, Dior Sauvage (EDT and EDP) and several fragrances in the Dior Pour Homme range. Demachy also produces perfumes for other companies in the French luxury giant LVMH’s stable.

Dior Oud Ispahan - Francois Demachy

So what does Dior Oud Ispahan smell like?

This unisex EDP opens with the distinctive scent of labdanum. Its ambery, slightly leathery quality is warm and enticing. The fragrance sweetens slightly, as the rose note makes its appearance. Don’t be put off by the mention of this initial sweetness – it’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.

“It’s gentle and then develops into something surprisingly sexy. This is Dior we are talking about, so it’s sophisticated at all times.”

The rose is perfectly partnered with the oud note that follows. Rose and oud combinations have always been popular in Middle Eastern perfumery. Dior Oud Ispahan takes its cue from this tradition, but it’s an undeniably Western take on oud.

While it’s not overwhelming or intensely “exotic”, there’s no doubting that this is the real thing in Dior Oud Ispahan. Oud is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery and Demachy makes the most of its woody, resinous aspects. That woodiness is complemented by the sandalwood and cedar notes.

To say that Dior Oud Ispahan is smooth is an understatement. Throughout its progression, it’s silky, yet full of character at the same time.

Dior Oud Ispahan

Packaging/Presentation

La Collection Privée is all about classical elegance and the presentation of these fragrances captures that aesthetic perfectly.

The stately cylindrical bottle was originally designed by fashion visionary Hedi Slimane, who was the creative director of the French luxury brand’s men’s ready-to-wear division at the time of the collection’s launch. A slick magnetic cap features the instantly recognisable Dior logo. Every juice in the collection has a different color. Dior Oud Ispahan has a rosy hue.

Dior Oud Ispahan

You can expect your bottle of Dior Oud Ispahan to be presented in a specially packaged box. The packaging ritual involves several stages – a box, tissue paper, a logoed perfumed cushion, a boxed fragrance, three samples of your choice in a logoed pouch, another bigger pouch, tissue paper sealed with Dior-logoed wax, your choice of colour of string to wrap the box and, the final touch, a Dior wax seal. This fastidious French attention to detail – complemented by professional and friendly customer service – leaves you in no doubt about the luxury experience you’re paying for.

R3 340 for 125ml, R4 965 for 250ml and R6 885 for 450ml.

For more oud options, read here. 

Read my review of Maison Christian Dior in Johannesburg here.

For more info on Dior’s La Collection Privée,  read here. 

Dior Oud Ispahan

 

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Jacques Huclier Interview: The Immersive Perfumer

Jacques Huclier

Image: Givaudan.

Jacques Huclier made his mark in spectacular fashion in 1996 when Mugler A*Men EDT was unleashed on the market. An audacious gourmand with lashings of caramel, coffee and patchouli, there was nothing like it at the time. More than 20 years later, this love-it-or-hate-it EDT is still in production. Its succession of flankers, all created by Jacques Huclier, is proof that not all follow-ups are a case of diminishing returns.

Jacques Huclier - Mugler A*Men EDT

While Jacques Huclier will always be known for Mugler A*Men, there’s far more to the Frenchman than this association. Over the years, he has produced numerous other notable fragrances. These include:

  • Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci EDP (2009)
  • Gucci Guilty Pour Homme EDT (2011)
  • Davidoff Horizon EDT (2016)
  • Azzaro Chrome Pure EDT (2017)
  • Boucheron Quatre Absolue de Nuit Pour Homme (2017)
  • Roberto Cavalli Imperial Hyacinth EDP (2018)

Jacques Huclier - Gucci Guilty Pour Homme EDT

His work for Map of the Heart deserves a special mention. He began collaborating with this Australian niche fragrance brand in 2014.

Why is perfumery so important to you?

Perfume is my passion and an olfactive art – it is about both creation and creativity. It is always a challenge to create the perfect and most relevant fragrance. I relish this creative challenge due to my competitive spirit. I find the creative process of designing a fragrance tremendously exciting; it brings out the best in you when your ultimate goal is to win.

Jacques Huclier

What do you remember most from studies at ISIPCA?

ISIPCA is where I discovered the fascinating world of the senses, the amazing power of the sense of smell and the beauty of fragrance. It is also where I met fabulous and inspiring perfumers and knew this was the right career path for me.

“I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance.”

What didn’t they teach you at ISIPCA that you learned through experience?

I learned resilience. A most important and critical lesson! I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance. But I also noticed how exciting it is to develop beautiful accords and fragrances – it was already a real source of great happiness.

Did you have a mentor in your career?

Olivier Cresp and Pierre Bourdon were early mentors of mine. I had the wonderful and fortunate opportunity to work alongside them and to watch how they work and create.

INSPIRATION: Olivier Cresp was one of Jacques Huclier’s mentors.

How do you go about creating a fragrance?

I always start with a strong accord and signature. Uniqueness is key for me. At the same time, a fragrance has to be wearable, pleasant and deliver emotion.

My method is to work with short formulas as often as I can to ensure the result is a clear message. This allows me to control the formula and to really understand the balance of the ingredients.

Jacques Huclier - Mugler A*Men Kryptomint EDT

Research is also an important part of my creative method. I immerse myself in the brand or the individual I am designing for. I will visit a brand’s store, observe the consumer, experience the brand and the lifestyle.

You’re probably most well known for your Mugler A*Men creations. A blessing or a curse?

My Mugler A*Men creations are very meaningful to me. It’s been a blessing to collaborate with this iconic designer, who’s known for disruption and his own signature. A*Men was the first fragrance to use a coffee note. I am so proud of this fragrance and amazed by its fan community, who are highly loyal to it. It gives me great pleasure to smell someone wearing it when I walk down the street and catch their scent.

Jacques Huclier - Mugler Amen Pure Havane EDT

You’ve produced a number of fragrances for Map of the Heart. Why do you enjoy working with this brand?

It’s been over five years since I started my collaboration with the Map of the Heart team. This brand is true haute parfumerie and working with it allows me complete creative freedom without boundaries. It is a wonderful partnership with Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling [the company’s co-founders], as we have common knowledge and a synergy in our creative process. We share a passion for travel – always seeking unique atmospheres and destinations for our inspiration. I treasure this original brand and our special relationship.

Jacques Huclier - Map of the Heart Red Heart v.3 EDP

What would people be surprised to know about Jacques Huclier?

How adventurous I am as an intrepid explorer. I love sailing, hiking and travelling the world. These passions give me perspective, to see things from different angles, as well as a feeling of total freedom. There is nothing like the open sea before you, the wind in your sails, and the excitement of what you might discover.

For more info on Map of the Heart, read here.

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Oud Fragrances: The Variety Edition

Oud Fragrances

If there’s one ingredient in perfumery that’s guaranteed to get love-it-or-hate-it reactions, it’s rich and woody oud. Partly, this is because there are many mediocre oud fragrances on the market, but mostly it’s due to the unique qualities of the ingredient. Depending on how it’s used, oud can have a variety of characteristics: anything from musty and bittersweet to balsamic. A visit to a perfume counter will tell you how popular oud fragrances have become over the last decade. Of course, they have been a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries.

Oud Fragrances

WHAT MAKES OUD SO SPECIAL?

According to Fragrantica, oud is the result of a fascinating process whereby the aquilaria tree species – found in south-east Asia, India and Bangladesh – is infected by a parasite. To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.

“To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.”

Various factors can influence the quality of oud, including the distillation process and the age of the tree. The very best oud is incredibly expensive, so most mainstream oud fragrances are based on a synthetic version or a blend of both natural and synthetic. Hence, the endless online debates about whether or not a fragrance is a real or synthetic oud.

PRECIOUS: The leaves of an aquilaria tree. Image: Chong Fat (Wikipedia).

Although there are many standouts here, this is not a definitive list of the best oud fragrances on the market. It also doesn’t include the huge variety of Middle Eastern oud fragrances. But it will give you a good sense of what’s available, especially for those who might have convinced themselves that oud is not for them. The names of perfumers (where known) and launch date have been placed in brackets after the name of each fragrance.

PURE OUD EDP BY KILIAN* (CALICE BECKER, 2009)

Key notes: Guaiac wood, saffron, agarwood, copahu balm, cypriol oil.

Wear it if… You want a heavy, pungent and uncompromising niche oud fragrance, with a strong leathery and woody aspect. Some might call it challenging, bitter and unwearable, so be warned if you’re looking for something more subtle. From the band’s Arabian Nights Collection, it’s decidedly masculine and makes a powerful statement.

Oud Fragrances

GUCCI GUILTY INTENSE OUD EDP (AURELIEN GUICHARD, 2016)

Key notes: Pear, raspberry, saffron, Bulgarian rose, orange flower, natural oud oil, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a great designer oud fragrance oud that doesn’t cost a fortune like many niche options, which claim to use more real oud. Gucci fragrances have been patchy over the years, but the Italian luxury brand hit the sweet spot with this unisex release. It’s smoky throughout, thanks to the incense and frankincense notes, sophisticated and sexy.

Oud Fragrances

CLEAN RESERVE SUEDED OUD EDP* (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2016)

Key notes: Incense oil, blue cypress, birch, red pimento, honeysuckle, temple oud, night-blooming jasmine, white magnolia, balsam fir, bushman’s candle, soft suede, patchouli, black amber, praline, musk, olibanum.

Wear it if… You want a clean and unisex niche oud that will surprise you. There are a lot officially listed notes in this fragrance, many of which you won’t be able to pick up. What does come through in this skin scent is the warm and musky quality of the suede, oud, musk, incense and amber notes. The praline note gives it a hint of just the right amount of sweetness.

Oud Fragrances

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2015)

Key notes: Sicilian bergamot, black pepper, saffron, rose, jasmine, agarwood, tobacco.

Wear it if… You want a super-elegant, smooth and toned-down oud experience. The oud in this fragrance is well balanced by the spices and florals. It’s from the brand’s high-quality Icon collection and the gold-encased bottle deserves a special mention for being of the best fragrance bottle designs in recent years.

Oud Fragrances

COMME DES GARCONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE, 2010)

Key notes: Vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, guaiac wood, Virginia cedar, oud, cypress, pepper, bergamot, incense, nutmeg, cashmeran, caraway.

Wear it if… You want a highly rated wood fragrance, where oud is just one of the elements. The similar-ish Comme des Garçons Wonderoud EDP goes big on the oud, but Wonderwood’s balance between the various listed woods and spices is, in many ways, a better option. A good dose of vetiver adds to the woodiness.

Oud Fragrances

ATELIER COLOGNE EMERAUDE AGAR COLOGNE ABSOLUE* (JEROME EPINETTE, 2016)

Key notes: Calabrian bergamot, Siberian angelica, Vietnamese black pepper, Turkish rose absolue, Egyptian geranium, Chinese eucalyptus, Malaysian agarwood, Indian sandalwood, Indian guaiac wood.

Wear it if… You want a very wearable oud fragrance with a fresh, green quality. Paris-based niche fragrance company Atelier Cologne is renowned for its citrus-infused scents. This EDP from its Haute Couture collection features some of the usual oud fragrance combos – for example, rose – but it’s the fresh notes – especially eucalyptus – that make it stand out.

Oud Fragrances

YSL M7 EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER & ALBERTO MORILLAS, 2002)

Key notes: Mandarin, bois de oud, patchouli, ciste, myrrh.

Wear it if… You want a seductive, smoky, slightly sweet oud fragrance. A reformulation of the classic and ground-breaking YSL M7, it’s a worthy purchase in its own right. A brief fresh opening makes way for an intriguing blend of patchouli, amber and myrrh, with a light treatment of oud in between.

Oud Fragrances

CREED ROYAL OUD MILLESIME EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION, 2011)

Key notes: Lemon, pink berries, bergamot, cedar, galbanum, angelica root, sandalwood, oud, Tonkin musk.

Wear it if… You want a seriously upmarket, luxurious interpretation of oud that’s signature scent material. This is expensive stuff (it’s Creed, after all), but for the price you’re getting a masterful and multi-faceted fragrance, from the citrus opener to the slightly sweet oud that’s not too dominant. It’s not an obvious oud fragrance and that’s part of its beauty.

Oud Fragrances

*Available from Skins Cosmetics South Africa. https://www.skins.co.za

 

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Sothys Reviews: Purifying Foaming Gel, Multi Action Eye Contour, Unifying Youth Serum

I was introduced to Sothys at the beginning of this year when I was asked to be a judge for a South African women’s magazine’s beauty awards. One of the products I got to assess was Sothys No2ctuelle Detox Resurfacing Night Cream. The PR for this highly regarded French spa brand saw my recommendation of the product and sent me some other products to try.

First, though, a bit of background on the company. Founded in 1946 in Paris by medical biologist Dr Hotz, Sothys started out as a beauty institute. When it was acquired by the Mas family in 1966, distribution of its products and services expanded to upmarket beauty salons and spas around the world. The Sothys range now includes face, body, sun-care, prestige and make-up products. There’s also a male Sothys range, which is not available in South Africa.

Regular readers of my blog will know that I am not fussy about such gender things. The main thing is that a product works for my skin concerns. I tried the following Sothys products for six weeks and these are my impressions:

SOTHYS PURIFYING FOAMING GEL

Skin maintenance all starts with a good cleanse and Sothys Purifying Foaming Gel did just that. Suitable for all skin types, it contains purifying and refreshing iris extract and soothing meadowsweet extract. My skin felt and looked gently cleansed after using this product. R490 for 125ml.

SOTHYS MULTI-ACTION EYE CONTOUR

As the area around the eyes is more delicate than the rest of the face, it’s often the first to show the signs of ageing. So I’ve always paid special attention to it. Wrinkles and dark circles are my thing, so any product that tackles these issues gets my vote. I applied this product for all skin types to the eye contour area morning and night, and enjoyed its absorbability. More importantly, I noticed how its high protection eye complex kept the ageing around my eyes in check. R895 for 15ml.

SOTHYS UNIFYING YOUTH SERUM

Serums are one of the most effective anti-ageing weapons around, as they are packed with higher concentrations of active ingredients. Best applied in small doses, morning and night, Sothys Unifying Youth Serum contains resveratrol molecules (a vine root derivative to reduce the appearance of dark spots) and vectorised peptide, marine exopolysaccharides and a pore refiner system to improve dermal functioning. It had a visible impact on my wrinkles and the overall condition of my skin, plus it was easily absorbed and didn’t create a greasy effect. R1 345 for 30ml.

VERDICT

As you can tell, I got great results from these products. What’s more, I used them at a time when things were very stressful at work, which always shows on my skin. So I am doubly impressed.

For more info on Sothys, read here.

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Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1957 EDP Review

Many of the big designer brands, from Dior and Dolce & Gabbana to Bulgari and YSL have launched so-called private collections in recent years. These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances. It’s safe to say that Les Exclusifs de Chanel is one of the best private collections around. Long before they became fashionable, it was launched in 1922 and now numbers 17 fragrances. Many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances are officially for women. However, there’s a fair selection of unisex fragrances to be experienced, too, including the latest addition to the collection, Chanel 1957 EDP.

“These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances.”

Inspiration for Chanel 1957 EDP

There are several auspicious dates in Chanel history and 1957 is one of them. Coco Chanel was recognised as the most influential designer of the 20th century when she was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in Dallas, Texas, in 1957.

HIGH PROFILE: A portrait of Coco Chanel in 1927, taken by Berenice Abbott. Image: Chanel.

America fell in love with Chanel from the start, from her debut as a milliner in 1912 and the launch of Chanel No 5 in 1924. Not to mention all her high-profile coverage in prestigious magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair over the decades.

The number 1957 is also the amalgamation of her birth date (19 August) and a reference to the address of the largest Chanel store in the United States in New York City (15 E 57th St).

ALL AMERICAN: Coco Chanel in her suite at the Hotel Pierre during her first visit to New York City in 1931.

So what does Chanel 1957 smell like?

From the opening, there’s no mistaking that this is a Chanel fragrance. It has a deceptive simplicity about it. After all, this a fragrance about the finer details.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde (common to many Chanel fragrances) notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness. There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. According to Chanel, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge used eight different musks to create it. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance and, according to Polge, will produce different results, depending on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Overall, it’s a chic skin scent in which there is no doubt that the best ingredients have been used to create it.

SUPER EIGHT: Olivier Polge used a variety of white musks to create Chanel 1957. Image: Chanel.

Chanel is very much about casual chic and this EDP is perfect for those occasions. It’s a great choice when you want to take pleasure in  wearing something special, without over-sharing it with everyone in your vicinity.

R3 240 for 75ml and R5 920 for 200ml.

 

 

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Fragrance Reviews: Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! EDT, Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT, Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP, Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Her! EDP, Hugo Reversed EDT, Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP, Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey Pulse of the Night EDP

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP

I haven’t done one of these designer fragrance round-ups this year. Not that I have lost interest in this category. Far from it. Even with all the predictability, there are always good releases to look out for. Where known, the perfumer is listed after the name of the fragrance.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PURE MUSC FOR HER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are characterised by their musky character. Each time I try a new release, I’m impressed by the different twist on the dominant note. This EDP opens with another enchanting display of musk. It’s fresh and green to my nose, yet cosy and comfy at the same time. White florals amplify that effect, while cashmeran adds muskiness and woodiness to the mix. On paper, Pure Musc for Her sounds very simple, but Constant, who has produced a number of fragrances for the brand, gives it a typically elegant treatment. R1 565 for 50ml and R2 180 for 100ml.

Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her EDP
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HIM! 2019 EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

Zadig & Voltaire is one of the lower-profile designer fragrance brands. I have tried several releases from the French rock-chic label and I’ve always found them to be of a good quality. This one is fresher take on previous versions, with lemon and grapefruit notes setting the scene. Incense is a big part of the This Is Him! franchise and it weaves its way throughout this EDT. It’s not a hard-core incense note, but very easy on the nose. The smoky effect is complemented by vetiver. There’s also a lot of ambroxan going on in this easy-going scent. R850 for 50ml and R1 085 for 100ml.

Zadig & Voltaire Capsule Collection This Is Him! 2019 EDT 

KARL LAGERFELD BOIS DE VETIVER EDT (CHRISTOPHE RAYNAUD)

Vetiver is one of my favourite ingredients, so my expectations are high when I try any fragrance that claims to contain it. I’ve tried several Karl Lagerfeld fragrances of varying quality, so I was keen to see how this one measured up to some of my favourites. I generally go for highly distinctive, unashamedly earthy vetivers, but I’ve been enjoying this one’s different spin on the theme. From the brand’s Les Parfums Matières collection, it opens with fresh notes of blood orange, lemon and mint. When the vetiver comes through (it’s definitely there), it’s a cool interpretation, followed by the familiar combo of ambroxan and musk. I’ve been wearing this in the middle of a Johannesburg winter, but reckon this one will be at its best in summer. A worthy and well-priced addition to my vetiver collection. R795 for 100ml.

Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver EDT

BENTLEY FOR MEN BLACK EDITION EDP

Some people find the idea of an automotive brand in the fragrance biz a bit bizarre, even unwelcome. But from my experiences with Bentley fragrances in recent years (the luxury brand made its fragrance debut in 2013), I can report that it has produced scents that are well worth exploring if solid masculine-profile smells are your thing. This EDP has a distinctive tangerine, pink pepper and nutmeg notes opening. There’s an earthy patchouli vibe in the middle, which is further developed by incense, moss and tobacco base notes. It strikes a nifty balance between sweet, spicy and woody. R1 395 for 100ml.

Bentley For Men Black Edition EDP

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CAPSULE COLLECTION THIS IS HER! 2019 EDP (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR AND MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

I had an inkling from the funkily designed bottle that this would be a sweetie – and I wasn’t wrong. But fortunately it’s a sweet fragrance with an interesting twist. It opens with big notes of pear and jasmine and then a chestnut cream note makes it appearance. Sometimes listed notes mean nothing, but I can actually pick up this one. Pity I can’t say the same for the warm sand accord, which sounds wonderful. Nevertheless, it all settles very nicely on a creamy sandalwood and musky ambrette base. Prettiness all round.  R1 110 for 50ml and R1 470 for 100ml.

HUGO BOSS REVERSED EDT

The Hugo range has been in production since 1995 and releases have been marked by their fresh youthfulness. The latest addition is no exception. It opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a soupcon of vetiver. It’s a straightforward, no-frills construction, in which you can actually smell all of the notes, that’s ideal for younger men looking for a spray ‘n go. R895 for 75ml and R1 195 for 125ml.

ELIE SAAB GIRL OF NOW FOREVER EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION & SOPHIE LABBE)

I believe in trying all fragrances that come my way, even if I am evidently not part of a fragrance’s target market. Elie Saab Girl of Now was originally launched in 2017 and must be doing well, as the second flanker, Girl of Now Forever, was launched earlier in 2019. Created by a highly regarded fragrance duo, it’s officially aimed at younger women. This EDP is a glam-girlie confection of lemon zest, raspberry, black currant, almond and vanilla notes. It’s unashamedly sweet and fruity, with a hint of tartness. It’s too sweet for me, but I can smell the appeal of this fun and youthful scent. R925 for 30ml, R1 465 for 50ml and R1 985 for 90ml.

Elie Saab Girl of Now Forever EDP

ISSEY MIYAKE NUIT D’ISSEY PULSE OF THE NIGHT (LOC DONG)

I have a love-hate relationship with Issey Miyake. On the one hand, one of my favourite fragrances from the 90s will always be Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme EDT. But on the other, sometimes the Japanese brand is guilty of a relentless flow of indistinguishable flankers. The latest addition to the Nuit d’Issey range shares some of the woody and leather qualities of the original released in 2014, but it has much to offer in its own right too. The top is dominated by a beautifully smoky kyara incense note, followed by a big blast of patchouli intermingled with amber. It’s smooth from top to bottom, with a touch of sweetness. R1 500 for 100ml.