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The State I’m In

I turned 50 in December 2019 and had planned to do a grooming post around that landmark birthday, which I celebrated way too quietly. And then I had many, many fragrance posts to attend to and then… the virus exploded. And a grooming post seemed self-indulgent in the scheme of things. I mean, who should really care about what serum I put on my face at such a time‽

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

But then grooming is not just about looking good and presentable, although that is part of it. For myself, I know it’s a reflection of my state of mind. When my mood takes a dive, my grooming routine is one of the first things to go out the window. Which it has to some degree over the last six weeks of lockdown here in Johannesburg. As I haven’t been able to see my dear good friend / hairstylist, what’s left of my hair is sprouting in all sorts of horrible ways. So at least I have an excuse for that. But as for the rest…

“When my mood takes a dive, my grooming routine is one of the first things to go out the window.”

So you can read this post in a number of ways:

  1. 50-Something Grooming Must-Haves
  2. Lockdown Grooming Essentials
  3. The Illusion Of Getting Things Together For When I Have To See People Again
BLEU DE CHANEL SHAVING CREAM

My dislike for shaving is well known and documented. But when I have to tackle the unruly stubble – I generally let nature take its course for four days before reaching for the razor – I’m going to do everything in my power to make it as pleasant as possible. Bleu de Chanel Shaving Cream not only smells good – it’s imbued with the classic scent of the best-selling fragrance – it also does a damn fine job in the lathering and smooth glide departments. R960 for 100ml.

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

DERMALOGICA INTENSIVE MOISTURE CLEANSER

I’m a big fan of Dermalogica products as they always deliver on their promises without making ridiculous claims. Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Cleanser earns double-duty points as a cleanser and moisturiser in one – particularly useful in Johannesburg’s harsh, skin-drying climate. Ingredients include a fancy-sounding BioReplenish Complex, phytoactives from coconut and murumuru seed better and extracts of citrus, palmarosa and jasmine. I can always rely on this one to make my skin feel fresher and smoother. R525 for 150ml and R825 for 295ml.

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

ELIZABETH ARDEN PREVAGE CITY SMART BROAD SPECTRUM SPF50 HYDRATING SHIELD

Elizabeth Arden’s anti-ageing range, Prevage, is another one of my favourites. Every single product I’ve tried from this line has provided great results. And this one is no exception. It protects facial skin against the damage caused by pollution, UVA rays, UVB rays and smoke through an Anti-Pollution Complex, broad-spectrum SPF50 sunscreen, antioxidants and DNA Enzyme Complex. The tint blends very well with my skin tone and gives it some much-needed colour. R895 for 40ml.

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

NUXE HUILE PRODIGIEUSE + NUXE PRODIGIEUX LE PARFUM

The French beauty brand is revered for its multi-purpose oil for the face, body and hair. Apart from its superb moisturising properties, it also smells wonderful. Launched in 2012 and created by Serge Majoullier, Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum takes its cue from the cult product and smells even more delicious.

The intro of this EDP is all about citrus notes that complement fresh and not-too-sweet orange blossom. Magnolia and gardenia intensify the floral and sunny mood. Le Parfum really comes into its own in the drydown where notes of vanilla, coconut milk and sand create the equivalent of a day at the beach in a bottle. Just what I need when any coastal travel is strictly forbidden. Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse: R345 for 50ml and R520 for 100ml. Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum: R855 for 50ml.

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

PAYOT BLUE TECHNI LISS NUIT

Due to the nature of my work, I spend way too much time in front of various screens. So this night product from the French beauty brand that combats the effects of exposure to skin-dehydrating and –ageing blue light called my name loud and clear. The gel-like balm contains a host of skin-nourishing goodies, including chaste tree and horehound extracts, nocturnal micro-algae and AHA hibiscus. R795 for 50ml. Exclusive to Dis-Chem. 

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

JACK BLACK POWER PEEL MULTI-ACID RESURFACING PADS

American grooming brand Jack Black celebrates its 20th anniversary this year for good reason. While its prices are on the premium side, its products offer no-nonsense performance due to their high content of active ingredients. There’s nothing like an exfoliating peel to boost dull and lifeless skin, and Jack Black Power Peel Multi-Acid Resurfacing Pads do just that with a mix of lactic, glycolic, salicylic and fruit acids. As instructed, I’m using them two to four times a week, and I’m already looking perkier. R790 for 40 pads. Available from Retail Box and Absolute Skin.

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

ELIZABETH ARDEN PREVAGE ANTI-AGING + INTENSIVE REPAIR EYE SERUM

Elizabeth Arden Prevage features twice on this list. That’s how good it is! I’m at the stage where the delicate area around my eyes needs the most concentrated form of active ingredients – and only a serum will do. This little baby is loaded with an arsenal that includes Idebenone, Arazine, Thiotaine, a complex of hyaluronic acid, barley and sea plant extracts, biomimetic peptide blend, retinyl linoleate, vitamin B3, masterwort and ash tree bark extracts. R1 495 for 15ml.

Lockdown Grooming Essentials

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10 Best Penhaligon’s Fragrances To Celebrate The British Brand’s 150th Anniversary

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

There aren’t that many fragrance companies that can celebrate 150 years in the biz. But then Penhaligon’s isn’t just any brand. It has come to represent the best of British heritage since it was founded in 1870 by William Penhaligon. As you can imagine, I had a really hard time narrowing this list down to just 10 best Penhaligon’s fragrances. But I hope that it will give you a good idea of the top-notch quality and creativity on offer.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

HERITAGE: William Penhaligon founded his company in 1870. Image: Penhaligon’s.

What started out as a barbershop has evolved into a Puig-owned company that niftily balances tradition and modernity, with three royal warrants along the way.

The company’s debut fragrance, the woody-floral Hammam Bouquet, was launched in 1872 and remains a best-seller to this day.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

You will notice that many of the fragrances on this list are recent releases. Proof that Penhaligon’s is not just trading on its illustrious heritage.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Penhaligon’s fragrances?

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet EDT

I begin my best Penhaligon’s fragrances list with this absolute classic. Originally launched in 1902, it was created for the Duke of Marlborough, according to the brand’s website, and has lost none of its charm over the decades.

Interestingly, on a technical level, it has no heart notes. But it’s the super-refined opening of lemon, lime and lavender notes that keeps me coming back for more. That, and the drydown of pine, musk and black pepper notes.

It’s officially a male fragrance. But you know better than to be limited by such things, especially in spring and summer when it’s the ideal tonic for the heat.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (Christian Provenzano)

There’s no shortage of quality oud fragrances on the market, but it’s this best-seller that always gets my attention.

Inspired by the Turkish town of Halfeti, this 2015 release has a very brief fresh opening, courtesy of grapefruit, green and artemisia notes. It then moves rapidly into more heady territory when the notes of cumin, nutmeg, rose and saffron come into play. Oud is the centrepiece of the fragrance and is very ably assisted by notes of leather, amber, vanilla, tonka and sandalwood.

This EDP is rich, warm and intense in all the right ways.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (OLIVIER CRESP)

Launched in 2011, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling is inspired by the quality of London dry gin.

Juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive style, open this unisex EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern boozy classic than its gin intro. A cocktail of citrus (orange), spices (black pepper and cardamom), herbs (angelica) and a hint of sugar all complement each other.

It’s more of a skin scent, so if you only go for power performers, this one might not be for you. But you will be missing out on a fragrance that develops beautifully on the skin.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S THE UNCOMPROMISING SOHAN 

A humorous take on the idea of the fragrance family, the Penhaligon’s Portraits collection was launched in 2016. It includes an assortment of EDPs named after delightful characters, including Clandestine Clara, Heartless Helen and The Bewitching Yasmine.

I love this 2017 release for its big, bold and powdery rose opening, with spicy pink pepper in the background. I don’t pick up much of the listed vetiver, but all is forgiven when the dynamic between the rose and Laotian oud (one of the best varieties) is so gorgeous. Sandalwood adds to the delicious oriental mood.

It’s on the pricey side, but the exquisite packaging is part of the deal.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S ELISABETHAN ROSE EDP

Inspired by the Tudor rose and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, this 2018 release is one of the most distinctive rose fragrances I’ve smelled in a long time.

Its unusual character is evident right from the nutty opening notes of hazelnut leaf and almond oil. Cinnamon adds to the warmth. The queen of florals dominates the heart of the scent, in particular rose centifolia oil and rose absolute. Their fruity potency is accentuated by red lily.

Eventually settling on a base of woody, musk and vetiver notes, it’s powerful stuff, so one or two sprays will more than do.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Iris Prima EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Looking for a super-elegant iris fragrance created by one of the world’s top perfumers? Then this 2013 release is for you.

It begins in fresh ’n spicy mode with notes of bergamot and pink pepper, and then transitions to the star of the show. This iris is full of powderiness and is partnered with a dose of jasmine, which has a slight animalic quality.

That animalic vibe is further developed in the drydown where an oh-so-smooth leather note predominates. Its creaminess is enhanced by woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRE EDP

Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender classic. But the Concentré version gets my vote, as it offers greater depth and longevity.

It opens with freshly elegant notes of bergamot and lavender, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness. A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal.

It’s too good to be monopolised by men only.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S LOTHAIR EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Wow! That’s my response every time I wear this multi-faceted 2014 release. I’m sure you will feel the same way when you sniff it out.

It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by all the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. And boy, does this deliver on the unusual front!

Aromatic juniper berries set the tone in the opening, but there are also accents of grapefruit, cardamom, red berries and fig leaf to tease the imagination. Notes of fig milk, black tea and lavender stand out in the heart of the EDT. The olfactory pleasure keeps on coming in the drydown that features a perfect union of vanilla, ambergris and woody notes.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S AS SAWIRA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

This 2015 release is another treasure from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection. Taking its inspiration from the abundance of opulent goods to be found in a souk (Arabian bazaar), it’s a beautifully executed woody EDP.

Opening notes of saffron, artemisia and absinthe create a rich and intoxicating ambience. The intensity progresses to the heart of the fragrance, featuring a melange of floral and spice notes, in particular rose, carnation, cardamom and cloves.

There’s a lot going on in the complex drydown, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of oud, myrrh, sandalwood and amber to the overall sensuality.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S ARTEMISIA EDP

After all that full-on opulence, I complete my round-up of the best Penhaligon’s fragrances with the understated luxury of this 2002 release.

A softly sweet note of nectarine sets the tone, with a touch of greenery in the background. Violet infuses the heart of the fragrance with a delectable powderiness, while notes of jasmine tea and lily-of-the-valley provide floral and green nuances respectively.

An almost caramel-y vanilla (without being gourmand-ish) is complemented by a large dose of seductive musk and creamy sandalwood in the drydown.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

All of the fragrances on this best Penhaligon’s fragrances list are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.  

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Anne Flipo Interview: The Creation Of YSL Libre EDP

Anne Flipo

Mention some of the biggest fragrances of the last decade and chances are that Anne Flipo was behind them. The French perfumer is highly respected in the industry and by her many fans for her accomplished and distinctive work across the niche and designer fragrance categories.

Some of her standout creations and co-creations during her career include:

  • L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT (1999)
  • Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia EDP (2010)
  • Lancôme La Vie est Belle EDP (2012)
  • Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT (2013)
  • Chloé Love Story EDP (2014)
  • Jimmy Choo Illicit EDP (2015)
  • Paco Rabanne Olympéa EDP (2015)
  • Jo Malone Herb Garden Collection (2016)
  • Givenchy L’Interdit EDP (2018)

Anne Flipo

Anne Flipo has also produced several successful fragrances for YSL, including L’Homme EDT (2006) and Manifesto EDP (2012). So it’s no surprise that the luxury French fashion brand sought her expertise to create their new fragrance, YSL Libre, which was released in 2019. See my review of it at the end of this interview.

Anne Flipo

She originally wanted to study flavours, but changed direction after falling under the spell of perfumery. Her work has been recognised through several awards, including the Cosmetique Magazine Perfumer of the Year award in 2014, Cosmetic Executive Women France Achiever Award for Creation in 2016 and Fragrance Foundation Awards for Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana Cologne (2018), among others.

In this email interview, Anne Flipo talks to me about her career, the creation of YSL Libre and the joys of orange blossom.

Where and when were you born?

I was born in 1963 in Laon in the north of France.

How is the coronavirus affecting you and your work?

Three years ago I organised an office in my home in the north of France, so working from home is nothing new for me.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

Today I’m working, so for better evaluation of the fragrance I am working on, I prefer not be perfumed.

Anne Flipo

When did you know that you wanted to become a perfumer?

I have always been strongly attracted to scents and olfactive materials, especially flowers. Later, when I was a student, I was a trainee in a fragrance house. It was obvious to me that I belonged in this world. I enjoyed discovering essential oils and trying to associate them so much, I thought being a perfumer would suit me perfectly.

“Someone told me that being a woman would make my project ‘uneasy’. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day.”

Besides, at that time, someone told me that being a woman would make my project “uneasy”. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day. I am quite obstinate in a way.

Anne Flipo

You studied at ISIPCA in Versailles. What was the most valuable thing you learned while studying there?

I had a lot of time to learn about raw materials, smelling and evaluating.

What didn’t they teach you while studying that you had to learn for yourself through experience?

Everything! I really began my training when I worked with my mentors such as Michel Almairac [the creator of fragrances such as Christian Dior Fahrenheit EDT, Gucci Rush EDP and Le Labo Ambrette 9 EDP].

Anne Flipo

How would you describe your fragrance style?

Difficult question. I’d say I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind. Orange blossom takes a huge part in my signature too. It is the ingredient I would never be fed up with. I could create a thousand perfumes around it, without it ever being redundant.

“I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind.”

What was the brief for YSL Libre?

The initial brief was to revisit the [often masculine] fougère for women.

Anne Flipo

How did you feel when it was announced on the same day in 2019 that IFF [the company she has worked for since 2004] were recognising you as a master perfumer and that your Libre proposal had been accepted?

I felt overwhelmed with emotion. It was a double recognition of my work and my career as a whole.

YSL Libre was a collaborative project with Carlos Benaïm. How did this collaboration work? Did you meet while working on this project?

I came up with the original idea and asked Carlos to step in. We worked separately and at each step we chose the best version as a new starting point while keeping the vision.

I fell in love with Carlos’s orange blossom absolute, because it brought opulence while maintaining its freshness.

During the seven years of development, Carlos and I were constantly in touch. We met several times during these years and each brought our own arrangements to the formula. We smelled them together in order to choose the best of our “mod” (in perfumers’ language, it’s an olfactory trial). Libre was a true four-handed creation between Paris and NYC. The fruit of a beautiful collaboration on both sides of the Atlantic.

PERFECTIONIST: Anne Flipo created YSL Libre EDP in a very close collaboration with Carlos Benaïm.

Apart from its seven years of development, YSL Libre apparently took more than 1 570 tries. Why did it take so long for it to eventually to come to fruition?

Fragrance creation is generally a long-term endeavour – a long and fascinating journey. Indeed, Libre took us more than 1750 trials, maybe because both Carlos and I are perfectionists. We worked hand in hand from each side of the Atlantic to achieve the perfect balance for the formula.

ALL ABOUT YVES: YSL Libre is inspired by the gender-bending spirit of legendary French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Image: YSL.

The fragrance has intriguing masculine and feminine aspects. How did you achieve that?

Libre is a freestyle take on the fougère to reveal its original feminine facet. We revisited this masculine structure by insisting on details that could turn it into a very feminine scent, just like Yves Saint Laurent re-tailored the tuxedo for women.

Lavender from France embodies the spirit of the fougère structure. We decided to blend it with orange flower from Morocco to obtain a gender-bending heart playing with both masculine and feminine facets.

SUITABLE INSPIRATION: Helmut Newton’s iconic image of YSL Le Smoking tuxedo for French Vogue in 1975. Image: YSL.

Looking back at your impressive body of work, do you have a particular favourite?

No, because all of my creations are unique. I treasure all of them, as I created them with passion.

What other projects have you just completed?

I completed YSL L’Homme Le Parfum this year and the other projects are confidential for now.

Anne Flipo

FRAGROOM YSL LIBRE EDP REVIEW

When two top perfumers collaborate on a project, success is not necessarily guaranteed. But then Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm are no ordinary “noses”. Both come with major credentials and their experience is displayed to great effect in YSL Libre.

The EDP opens with the distinctive character of fresh lavender. A special variety grown in Provence, diva lavender, was used by the perfumers. It’s warm, slightly sweet and unmistakably floral, instead of the clean and cool customer many of us may be used to. It’s strengthened with the addition of lavandin heart. So there’s no getting away from the lavender profile of this scent. There’s a bit of fresh citrusy action too, courtesy of notes of mandarin orange and neroli.

Anne Flipo

The fresh aspect is further developed when the orange blossom comes through. And boy, does it shine in a rich and most sensual way! Another white floral, jasmine sambac, is present in the mix, but it knows its supportive place in the scheme of things.

Image: YSL.

The drydown is dominated by a special extract of vanilla from Madagascar, thankfully not the sickly sweet kind. This deep one has quality written all over it. It works particularly well together with the musk and amber.

Kudos to the creators for this fragrance with a twist that doesn’t smell like everything else on the market. While it’s clearly intended to be a best-seller, not everyone will like its play on the masculine and the feminine. Expect to see several flankers over this decade.

YSL Libre EDP, R1 060 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 050 for 90ml. For more info, read here.

Anne Flipo

 

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Sophie Berdoues Interview: Four Generations Of Perfumery

Berdoues

Heritage is a valuable commodity in the perfume industry, and Berdoues has it in abundance. Founded in 1902 by barber Guillaume Berdoues, the French company has remained a family-owned business over four generations and is currently led by the founder’s great grand-daughter, Sophie Berdoues.

I first heard of the brand last year when its Collection Grands Crus was launched in South Africa (its older collection 1902 might be launched in the country at a later stage).

For obvious reasons, travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. This range of 12 mostly unisex EDPs makes the most of it with an impressive variety of fairly straightforward, feel-good blends that evoke destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

Image: MapStudio.

I got to try all of the EDPs that are available in the country at a media launch in Cape Town in February this year. Two, in particular, have become regulars in my fragrance wardrobe.

Taking its cue from the Amazon rainforest and created by Jennifer Riley, Selva do Brazil opens with a super-fresh note of petitgrain from Paraguay. It’s sharp, invigorating and lushly green in character. Notes of tonka bean from Brazil and guaiac wood from Argentina add to the forest-y ambience. It’s a simple composition, but never fails to give me a mood boost.

Berdoues

Created by Philippe Romano, Maasaï Mara is a mellower and warmer, but equally appealing affair. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape.

Berdoues

I got to interview Sophie Berdoues via email about the importance of heritage, the collection and her work.

What is your main responsibility as president of the company?

I develop and lead the company’s strategy with my team. We define the general objectives, but I leave the final decisions about the financial, material and human resources to execute within the guidelines and decisions taken. I also lead the company’s management committee and am responsible for its results.

What’s the best part of your job?

The team work and launch of new projects.

And the most stressful?

Sometimes having to make important decisions for the business alone.

Berdoues is very much about heritage. Why is it so important to you?

My father, like my grandfather, spent a lot of time and energy to develop high-quality perfumes. My father passed on to me the passion for perfumery, raw materials and, above all, freedom. I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.

“I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.”

Berdoues

FAMILY WAY: Sophie Berdoues is very proud of her family’s perfume heritage, which includes, clockwise from top right, her father Pierre, her grandfather Henri and great-grandfather Guillaume. Images: Berdoues.

Why did you launch the Collection Grand Crus?

We wanted to give a nod to my family through perfumes highlighting the most beautiful raw materials of perfumery, which I started to smell at a very young age. This is what seduced my family at the beginning of this story and today our consumers. We wanted to tell a story of travel through natural materials selected for their olfactory qualities – blends like the great French wines.

What criteria do you use for the perfumers who create the fragrances for the Collection?

It all starts with cards, photos, desires and a blank sheet. The destination inspires our perfumers. A lived or fantasised memory, it reveals a world region which, for us, carries history. This creation builds the search for materials where it is best expressed olfactively. The beauty of the world is endless, and so are our creations.

The fragrances are very reasonably priced. How did you achieve that?

We made the strategic choice of placing the entire budget in what is most important to us: perfume. And there, it’s my roots that speak. We have surrounded ourselves with perfumers based in Grasse, the cradle of perfumery in the south of France. For the other aspects of product creation, we have chosen to work with a standard bottle that we have dressed. We also work with local partners for all items of the product.

Berdoues fragrances are available from selected Foschini and Truworths stores. R1 595 for 100ml. 

*This post is sponsored by Orleans Cosmetics, the distributor of Berdoues Collection Grands Crus in South Africa.*

 

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Best Chanel Fragrances For Every Situation

Best Chanel Fragrances

Chanel has been in the fragrance biz since 1921. What an auspicious debut Chanel No 5 proved to be! Almost a century later, the company has maintained its reputation for elegant and timeless compositions, and there’s no shortage of contenders for a best Chanel fragrances list.

This is a considerable achievement when you consider how many brands have allowed their heritage to be diluted at the expense of quick cash. Instead, Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.

“Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.”

With an impressive mix of classics and new launches, Chanel offers discerning fragrance consumers the ideal selection of options for every situation. I’ve rounded up some of the best in a variety of categories, including classic, casual, work, romantic night out, summer and winter.

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance. If you’re wondering why the same perfumers’ names keep on popping up on this list, that’s because Chanel, in the tradition of the grand maisons of old, relies on the expertise of their in-house perfumer.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CLASSIC
CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.

Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in a number of ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased the compound aldehydes, with its fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.

In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.

Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Launched in 1984, Coco bears all the hallmarks of the decade. It’s big, bold and brash – by Chanel standards. And I mean that as a compliment.

A brief Sicilian mandarin note gives way to the distinctive spiciness of coriander. There’s more spice in the form of cloves. They can sometimes be overly domineering, but here they’re perfectly balanced by notes of Bulgarian rose, Tunisian orange blossom, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang from the Comoros.

As to be expected from an oriental, the drydown is rich and dense. Notes of Indonesian patchouli, benzoin and tonka bean work together to create a thoroughly grown-up fragrance that oozes retro glamour.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CASUAL
CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.

It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau is my casual choice.

The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes in the opening, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.

Best Chanel Fragrances

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL 1957 EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

The latest addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private collection is undoubtedly a Chanel creation. It has a deceptive simplicity about it.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness.

There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance.

It’s a chic skin scent in which the best ingredients have been used to create it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WORK
CHANEL ALLURE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

We all know how increasingly tricky the work fragrance scenario is. Something that will make you stand out, without offending the sensitivities of others. Which is why I can’t think of a better office option than this multi-dimensional 1999 release. It gets the balance between power and subtlety oh so right.

It begins in fresh citrus territory with pronounced notes of mandarin orange and lemon. Peach adds a slightly fruity element. Featuring notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, water lily, magnolia and freesia, the heart is floral a-go-go, without any of the associated sweetness, but more on the fresh side of things. They are complemented by a delicate touch of rose.

After all that fresh, fruity and floral action, Allure takes on an oriental character in the drydown with a big dose of quality vanilla that’s supported by creamy sandalwood.

As with many Chanel fragrances, it’s also available in EDT and parfum versions.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL CRISTALLE EAU VERTE EDT CONCENTREE (JACQUES POLGE)

One of the lesser-known Chanel fragrances, this 2009 flanker to the 1974 original is well worth sniffing out. Inspired by the designer’s love of the outdoors, it works a treat when you’re all cooped up behind your computer screen, thanks to its fresh, floral and green accents.

Featuring notes of bergamot and Amalfi lemon, the opening epitomises sparkling freshness. Neroli continues the theme in the heart of the scent, with its bitter-sweet nuances. A note of magnolia brings a floral aspect – it’s crisp and opulent at the same time – while jasmine infuses it with a delicate sweetness.

Settling with a musky drydown, this EDT doesn’t have the best longevity. So I recommend keeping it in your bag for the occasional, refreshing top-up.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – ROMANTIC NIGHT OUT 
CHANEL CHANCE TENDRE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

Just when I’d given up on many modern fruity florals, along comes the youthful Chanel Chance Tendre to restore my faith in the popular genre. Launched in 2019, it’s the fourth addition to the range that originally made its debut in 2003.

Notes of grapefruit and quince set the citrus-fruity mood. What relief! There’s none of the screechy sweetness that’s prevalent in so many other examples. It’s soft and most appealing. The fragrance really comes into its own when jasmine absolute and rose essence make their presence felt. A sophisticated floralcy to be enjoyed by you and your date.

And then there’s the musk, which brings it all together in a very skilful and romantic way.

It’s not a reinvention of the fruity floral as we know it, but it’s certainly a masterly fine-tuning of it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

As with its predecessor, Gabrielle Chanel EDP, this 2019 release is inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel. The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right – a richer and denser character.

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background. This is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Olivier Polge has not skimped on the ingredients, which include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and an exclusive variety of tuberose. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

The tuberose is the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – SUMMER  
CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

Launched in 1970 and created by Ernest Beaux’s successor, Chanel No 19 refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel, who was born on August 19, 1883. It was also the last Chanel fragrance to be created while the grande dame was still alive (she died in 1971). Historical significance aside, I love this classic for its unusual floral-woody-green character.

It begins with citrus-fresh notes of bergamot and neroli. But they are secondary to the large dose of galbanum, which gives this EDP its outstanding bitter-green profile. Iris pallida softens the initial impact with powderiness, while notes of ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose bring floral intensity to the mix. The woody base notes of oakmoss and vetiver keep it resolutely sharp.

Fifty years after its initial launch, this EDP remains a complex and compelling beauty. It’s probably the least crowd-pleasing Chanel fragrance.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018, with three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. The latest addition to the range, launched in 2019, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

For Paris-Riviera, Olivier Polge took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the gentle juice, in which nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. A special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, is blended with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. The jasmine flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

Get your hands on this limited edition before May 2020.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WINTER  
CHANEL COCO NOIR EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

In a fragrance world where flankers are often a case of ever-diminishing returns, you can rely on Chanel to give you a very good reason to spend your hard-earned cash on another extension to one of their best ranges.

Launched in 2012, Coco Noir takes its inspiration from the fashion legend’s love of black and Venice. It’s a suitably baroque affair with oriental flair.

The intro of bergamot, orange and grapefruit notes is deceptively citrus-fresh, but deliciously sensual. It doesn’t take long for rose to reveal its romantic intentions. And who can say no to such a lush take on the queen of flowers? A geranium leaf note adds to the rosiness. The base belongs to patchouli in all its rich, dark and exotic glory. Tonka bean and sandalwood bring warm creaminess to the composition.

I’ve recommended this one for winter, but it would work equally well for a romantic night out.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EDP INTENSE (OLIVIER POLGE)

When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental made its mark on a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.

Olivier Polge, le fils de Jacques Polge (excuse my basic French), created a worthy successor to Coco Chanel Mademoiselle EDP with Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, which was launched in 2018.

It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original, but then Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been amplified with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent.

My sources tell me that a new version of Coco Mademoiselle is to be launched this year.

Best Chanel Fragrances

*All fragrances available at Edgars, except Chanel 1957, which is only available at the Sandton City (Johannesburg) and V&A Waterfront (Cape Town) stores.

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Best Incense Fragrances: The Smoky Edition

Incense Fragrances

Incense has been used over the centuries in a variety of religious, spiritual and cultural practices from China and Japan to India and Arabia. The smell of burning incense and the waft of its smoke continues to enchant perfume-lovers. As you would expect, incense fragrances tend to have an oriental vibe.

I’ve included a variety of incense fragrances on this list, from those where it is the dominant note to those where there’s just a hint of it. Not everyone goes for the full incense experience.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite incense fragrances?

Incense Fragrances

AMOUAGE INTERLUDE WOMAN EDP* (KARINE VINCHON SPEHNER)

There’s a lot happening in this multi-layered 2012 release from the Oman-based niche fragrance house, but these are some of the highlights.

Opulent honey-tinged marigolds are the first to catch my attention in the opening, followed by a herbal dose of immortelle. But it’s the seductive smoke from the frankincense and myrrh that gets me every time. The drydown maintains the sensual atmosphere. Leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and a smidgeon of oud are all discernible in the luxe mix.

ORTO PARISI TERRONI PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Maverick Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri prefers to explain the distinctive creations from his niche fragrance brand through story-telling, instead of notes. While some perfume stories tell you nothing, the one for this 2017 release says it all.

Inspired by the volcanic land surrounding Mount Vesuvius, it’s suitably earthy and fiery with stand-out notes of dark cocoa, berries, vetiver and patchouli. Dark and smoky incense weaves its way throughout the scent.

This is a potent parfum, so spray lightly when applying it, as it lasts forever and a day. Also look out for Gualtieri’s infamous cannabis-infused Black Afgano from his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which has a strong incense element.

Incense Fragrances

ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! POUR LUI EDT (NATHALIE LORSON & AURELIEN GUICHARD)

The French fashion label is popular for its rock-chic aesthetic. What’s less well-known is that it has several quality fragrances. Officially marketed at men, but perfectly unisex, Just Rock! Pour Lui is one of their best.

This 2017 release opens with the warm, vanilla-ish overtones of tonka bean, which is further enhanced by a black vanilla note. The incense note makes its presence felt early in the fragrance’s progression. Sophisticated yet accessible, it’s complemented by a twist of spice, settling on a base of earthy patchouli.

A simple, but effective composition, it’s one of the the best-priced incense fragrances you’ll find.

Incense Fragrances

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR EDP (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

There are many reasons to always have a bottle of Guerlain Shalimar in your fragrance wardrobe. Some of these include:

  • It’s an all-time classic that has lost none of its magnificence since its launch in 1925.
  • It’s widely celebrated as the first oriental perfume.
  • Inspired by the great love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it’s gorgeously romantic.

It will take you on an olfactory journey through bergamot, iris, jasmine, rose vanilla and tonka bean notes. The incense in the drydown is smoky and sensual. It makes its presence felt without spelling it out.

Incense Fragrances

MEMO SIWA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo is highly regarded for their leather range, Cuir Nomades, which includes African, French and Irish versions. From their Graines Vagabondes collection, Siwa is also worthy of your attention. It’s inspired by the Siwa urban oasis in the Egyptian part of the Sahara Desert.

This 2007 release opens in spicy mode with a note of cinnamon leaf oil, followed by slightly sweet notes of narcissus absolute and freesia, featuring green nuances. Vanilla dominates the drydown, while a gentle take on the incense theme accentuates the oriental mood.

For a heavier take on incense, sniff out Memo Tiger’s Nest.

Incense Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Founded in the 1970s in Paris, L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of the niche fragrance industry’s pioneers. Its well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was launched in 1999.

A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience. Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and amber add sweetness to the blend, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Incense Fragrances

EX NIHILO OUD VENDOME EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche brand specialises in luxurious fragrances made from the best ingredients, and Oud Vendôme is typical of its modern approach to perfumery.

The intro is delicately spicy with notes of ginger and saffron, transitioning to a heart that balances green galbanum and woody cedar. The combo of precious agarwood and soothing incense in the drydown is super-smooth and sophisticated. A big dose of musk brings cosiness to the mix.

This 2014 woody oriental has a decidedly Western feel. Nothing wrong with that when it’s this chic.

Incense Fragrances

ELLA K BAISER DE FLORENCE* (SONIA CONSTANT)

From Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle and Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau to Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her and Tom Ford Orchid Soleil, Sonia Constant is one of my favourite perfumers.

The Parisian founded her own niche fragrance company in 2017 and Baiser de Florence, inspired by a visit to a Florentine church, was one of her first releases.

This is primarily an iris fragrance, a suitably powdery and cool one at that, but it’s the trail of incense that keeps me coming back for more. Wood and musk complete the soft and romantic mood.

Incense Fragrances

YSL CAFTAN EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Launched in 2015, this EDP is from the French fashion brand’s perfume wardrobe-inspired Le Vestiaire des Parfums private collection. It was created by the brilliant Calice Becker (Kilian Back to Black, Dior J’Adore, Giorgio Armani Ambre Eccentrico), so you know you’re in for a treat.

There’s a brief, barely noticeable citrus intro, but that’s okay, because we’re here for the rich, resinous smokiness of olibanum (frankincense), benzoin and styrax. What a seductive trio – all bringing out the best in each other!

The luxurious oriental mood continues through to the drydown, with labdanum in deep ambery mode. A dash of musk heightens the warmth.

Incense Fragrances

KILIAN INCENSE OUD EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

For a more intense oud and incense experience, you can’t go wrong with this 2011 release from the niche fragrance company founded by Kilian Hennessy. As the heir to the luxury cognac dynasty, he’s au fait with all things luxury, and Incense Oud delivers that in abundance.

A rich rose in full bloom sets the scene for the scent, with warm spicy notes of cardamom and pink pepper in the background. Patchouli accentuates the opulent vibe. It doesn’t take long for the precious oud and smoky incense to come through. Deep stuff! Sandalwood adds just the right amount of creaminess.

Incense Fragrances

ROOS & ROOS MENTHA RELIGIOSA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

French niche fragrance house Roos & Roos was founded in 2014 by beauty industry veteran Chantal Roos and her daughter, Alexandra. Mentha Religiosa won the Fragrance Foundation’s best independent perfume award in 2017 for good reason. It’s full of intriguing contrasts.

It makes a cool and fresh first impression with sharp notes of citrusy bergamot and peppery mint. Things warm up in the drydown where incense takes the leading role. It’s the kind you’d smell at a Catholic mass. Notes of patchouli and cedar provide earthy and woody support.

Incense Fragrances

Image: roosandroos.fr

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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I’m A Video Star (Sort Of)

Okay, so that “video star” title could go down as a classic example of clickbait. But there’s a teeny-weeny bit of truth to it, too.

I was contacted a while ago by the très charmant French vlogger Clémence CC Fragrance to check if I would mind her using a story I wrote, 6 New Rules of Wearing Cologne (Plus 2 Old Ones), for an American  website last year as inspiration for a post of hers. And had completely forgotten about it, until she got in touch with me.

People don’t always acknowledge their inspiration, so I was doubly impressed. First, by the initial contact and then the actual post itself. Clémence knows all about great production values.

You can see the results below and Clémence’s other posts here. She’s definitely someone to watch.

GET MOVING

Now, back to the video star thing. I’ve been um-ing and ah-ing about moving to video, in some form or other, for yonks. I even created a very Fragroom basic YouTube channel some time ago. As we all know, there’s been a huge shift to vlogging in the last few years and, as a media creature, it’s important to add news skills to the repertoire.

“What’s holding me back? A mix of procrastination, perfectionism, self-consciousness, fear and the need to offer something different.”

I know all of this, so what’s holding me back? A mix of procrastination (it’s taken me a few weeks just to commit to this post), perfectionism, self-consciousness, fear and the need to offer something different. The same things that kept me from launching my blog, until I eventually just jumped and got over myself.

Video Star

UBER-INFLUENCER: Jeremy Fragrance. Image: jeremyfragrance.com.

So will 2020 be the year I become a true video star à la Jeremy Fragrance? Well, that’s not my aim, although I am in awe of his supreme confidence. But I do know I have to be a brave boy and just start somewhere… You will be the first to know when I’ve crossed the threshold.

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Dunhill Signature Collection Review

Dunhill Signature

The growth of private collections continues to gather momentum. Launched in 2019 with relatively little publicity, Dunhill Signature epitomises what these ranges are all about. Superior ingredients, an emphasis on craftsmanship and luxury, and limited distribution. These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery.

Dunhill Signature

However, Dunhill brings its own angle to the trend (come to think of it, it’s more of a standard now than a trend) – a focus on travel and adventure, while balancing tradition and modernity. This should come as no surprise. After all, the British luxury goods brand was in the automobiles accessories biz in one of its various incarnations in the 20th century.

“These are all nods to the growing influence of the niche category in perfumery. “

The launch collection (presumably more will be added) consists of four different fragrances. They were created by a mix of established and up-and-coming perfumers. I’ve listed the name of the perfumer in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Dunhill Signature

PERFUME TALENT: The Dunhill Signature fragrances were created by, clockwise from top left, Alexandra Monet, Carlos Benaïm, Gino Percontino and Pierre Negrin.

INDIAN SANDALWOOD EDP (CARLOS BENAIM)

An award-winning perfume legend, Benaim has a succession of standout creations to his name. These include Antonio Puig Quorum EDT, Calvin Klein Eternity For Men EDT, Frédéric Malle Music For A While EDP and Dunhill Icon EDP. His expertise is clearly evident in this scent.

It opens with the fresh and sunny citrus hues of bergamot and continues to warm up, in an earthy way, with the addition of green tree and patchouli notes. Sandalwood comes through seamlessly in the drydown. Rich, without being overpowering, it has a creamy, almost coconut-y vibe.

Verdict: Woody and warm, it evokes an Indian summer in semi-tropical style.

Dunhill Signature

MOROCCAN AMBER EDP (GINO PERCONTINO)

I’m not familiar with Percontino’s creations for brands such as Anthropologie, Banana Republic, Phlur and Hollister, among others. But judging by the sterling job he’s done with Moroccan Amber, he’s a perfumer to watch in the future.

The intro is all spice, featuring big wafts of sweet cardamom. I also get teeny-weeny hints of ginger and coriander, although they are not officially listed notes. The spice keeps coming with saffron, which has soft leather undertones. The base of amber is typically warm and cosy, but Percontino keeps the sweetness in check with a rugged earthiness.

Verdict: An oriental that gets the balance between sweet and spicy just right.

Dunhill Signature

BRITISH LEATHER EDP (PIERRE NEGRIN)

With creation such as Amouage Interlude Man EDP, Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP and Ralph Lauren Polo Black EDT, Negrin needs no introduction. The French perfumer was the perfect choice to give Dunhill’s leather heritage a contemporary spin.

The inherent bitterness of bergamot is amplified at the beginning of this fragrance. Is that a hint of cardamom in the background? The violet leaf that follows pushes it in a green direction. This bitter green aspect is brought to the fore by an infusion of mate tea, which lays the foundation for the leather accord in the drydown. It’s a lived-in leather that’s cooler in character than its stable mates.

Verdict: A distinctive leather that’s full of character and creases.

Dunhill Signature

ARABIAN DESERT EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

No private fragrance collection is complete without an oud, and Arabian Desert was placed in the capable hands of Monet. She is known for her accomplished work for brands such as Berdoues, The Different Company and Kenzo.

This EDP displays its charms from the start. Rosy pink peppercorns set the oriental mood, with citrus bergamot and spicy saffron in support. The heart features floral notes of rose and jasmine, which are treated most delicately. Rose and oud is a popular combo, and Monet gives it plenty of sensual smoke in the drydown.

Verdict: A sweetish, but not too sweet, take on oud that’s smoothly seductive.

Dunhill Signature

There’s a deceptive simplicity to these Dunhill Signature fragrances. Unlike its more mass market fragrances, their streamlined structure allows individual ingredients to breathe more.

The bottles also deserve a mention. Taking their cue from the brand’s automotive heritage, they take the solid design of the Icon collection to new levels of modern elegance with their structures of transparent glass and metal tops.

For a private fragrance collection, these EDPs are also very reasonably priced at R2 299 for 100ml.

The Dunhill Signature collection is available in South Africa at Edgars, Truworths and Foschini stores.

 

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Interview With Olivier Pescheux, Creator Of Diptyque Eau Capitale

Olivier Pescheux

At the time of writing this post, Olivier Pescheux would have had every right to be pleased with himself. The award-winning perfumer’s latest creation, Diptyque Eau Capitale, has been getting a lot of attention. You can read my review of this gorgeous rose-hued chypre here.

Olivier Pescheux

After studying at ISIPCA in Versailles, the Parisian worked for Payan Bertrand and Annick Goutal. He has been with Givaudan since 1998. Whether working with designer, celebrity or niche brands, Olivier Pescheux is remarkably versatile and respected for his bold style. The Paris-based perfumer has an impressive list of creations to his name. This edited list shows the breadth and depth of his works over the years:

  • Christian Dior Higher EDT (2001)
  • Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme EDT (2005)
  • Yves Rocher Voile d’Ambre EDP (2005)
  • Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT (2008)
  • Montblanc Legend EDT (2011)
  • Parfums de Marly Herod EDP (2012)
  • Yohji Yamamato Yohji Homme EDT (2013)
  • Armani Privé Myrrhe Impériale EDP (2013)
  • Davidoff Horizon EDT (2016)
  • H&M Beauty Fragrance Collection (2018)
  • Versace Eros Flame EDP (2018)
  • Coach Dreams EDP (2020)
Olivier Pescheux

Image: Fragrantica.com.

Olivier Pescheux is also the creative force behind a number of Diptyque fragrances, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Vetyverio and Tempo. He answered my questions via email about Diptyque Eau Capitale, perfume pressures and why he’s not keen on launching his own brand.

Olivier Pescheux

DIPTYQUE DIMENSION: Olivier Pescheux has created several fragrances for the Paris-based niche fragrance brand, including Tempo.

What does your role as Vice President Perfumer at Givaudan entail?

Being a perfumer means that I create perfumes to answer our clients’ requests, and being a VP perfumer means that I am becoming older with more responsibilities.

“The idea was to illustrate the perfect perfume for a Parisien/Parisienne: chic and elegant, but also sensual and sexy.”

Using Diptyque Eau Capitale as an example, how do you approach the creation of a fragrance?

The idea behind  Eau Capitale was to illustrate the perfect perfume for a Parisien/Parisienne: chic and elegant, but also sensual and sexy, ready for a date at any time. The chypre family was obvious for me. It’s how I started to work.

Olivier Pescheux

Did you revisit François Coty’s classic when you were creating it?

Chypre by François Coty gave birth to a new family that took the name. The base of a chypre is made of bergamot, cistus labdanum, patchouli and oakmoss. With time and to respect norms, the oakmoss was replaced by evernyl (one of the oakmoss components). Eau Capitale contains these four raw materials, but is not inspired by the pilar.

Some people have compared it with Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady. Your thoughts please.

It is a nice compliment, as I love Portrait. It’s rosier, more mature, with more patchouli. But both of them are grandsons of Coriandre by Jean Couturier [the classic from 1973].

Image: Fragrantica.com.

According to Fragrantica, you’ve created 114 fragrances in your career so far. How do you make sure you balance quantity with quality?

Thank you, I didn’t know that. 114 fragrances in 28 years, which means four per year. It’s a good rhythm, which gives me enough time to create a fragrance without losing the quality I always want to have in my creations.

Olivier Pescheux

What’s been the biggest change in the industry since you first became a perfumer?

It’s the time we have to develop a fragrance. It’s quicker and quicker, and the number of projects is getting bigger and bigger.

Any prediction what will be the most important development in perfumery this decade?

People are talking about AI, but it is difficult to predict the impact it may have on creation. It could help perfumers with basic work like helping to choose the right product for a specific application (stability issue, etc). I am not expecting a big change. Small changes will probably have the most impact.

Olivier Pescheux

Image: giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com.

What kind of pressures do modern perfumers have to deal with?

The first pressure is time and being able to create a fragrance faster and faster while respecting norms and prices. The other is to create a fragrance that will please people in the US, China, Europe, Latin America and the Middle East!

Olivier Pescheux

Have you ever experienced a fundamental disagreement with a client over one of your creations? How do you deal with that?

Yes, I remember one disagreement I had. I created a fragrance where I used a new captive material. It was very strong and I knew that but, after maceration, it became overly powerful. Some customers brought back their bottle, complaining about the fragrance and they were right. It was really bad. Our client was very nice and said that he was also responsible, because he forgot to check the perfume after maceration before putting the fragrance on the shelves.

Olivier Pescheux

Image: parfums-de-marly.com.

Any ambitions to launch your own fragrance company?

Not really. There are too many cooks in the kitchen! And it is not about creating a fragrance, but a brand. It demands a lot of time and energy. I am very happy with my job and I don’t have any frustrations.

Olivier Pescheux

Image: pacorabanne.com.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

 

 

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Perfumed Travels: Diptyque Eau Capitale + Lady Hamilton Hotel Review

Diptyque Eau Capitale

Judging by all the online reviews I am seeing (and avoiding reading, in case I’m influenced by them), Diptyque Eau Capitale is the first big niche release of 2020 (although it was officially launched late last year).

I was recently in Cape Town for business and brought Diptyque Eau Capitale with me as my fragrance companion. There’s nothing like spending uninterrupted time with a perfume to really get a proper sense of it. It’s kind of like spending time away with a partner – for better and for worse.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

INSPIRATION

Since its founding in 1961, Diptyque has been synonymous with Paris and all its unique facets of arts, culture, literature and architecture. With Diptyque Eau Capitale, the niche fragrance brand is at last paying tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity.

“Diptyque Eau Capitale is significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance.”

Diptyque Eau Capitale is also significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance. As part of its homage to Paris, the company thought it would be fitting to release a chypre – perhaps the most classical of perfumes, as epitomised by François Coty’s 1917 masterpiece.

SO WHAT DOES DIPTYqUE EAU CAPITALE SMELL LIKE?

Olivier Pescheux, who has produced several acclaimed scents for the brand over the years, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Eau des Sens, Vetyverio and Tempo, was a natural choice to create this latest addition.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

MAISON FRIEND: Olivier Pescheux has created several successful fragrances for Diptyque. Image: Givaudan.

The intro to the scent belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose. Sourced from Turkey and Bulgaria, this is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background. For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy qualities of Indonesian heart of patchouli and Haitian vetiver.

Some people are comparing Diptyque Eau Capitale with the Frédéric Malle tour de force Portrait of A Lady, not always favourably or fairly. Perhaps, because they both have dominant notes of rose and patchouli. These are very, very different fragrances and should be judged on their own merits. It’s not an either/or situation. Diptyque Eau Capitale stands out in its own right.

If longevity and sillage are priorities for you when buying a perfume, this EDP won’t disappoint. It’s one of the most potent I’ve smelled in a long time.

The fragrance proved to be the perfect travel partner. Present and engaging, but not suffocating. Intriguing, multi-dimensional and stimulating, yet approachable. Versatile and memorable.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. Look out for my interview with Olivier Pescheux in my next blog post.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

LADY HAMILTON HOTEL, GARDENS, CAPE TOWN

One of Cape Town’s most famous landmarks is the swanky Mount Nelson. Unfortunately, my blogger income wouldn’t allow me to set up temporary home at the five-star hotel. After some research, I came across another charming pink lady, in close proximity to the grande dame, the Lady Hamilton Hotel.

THE GRANDE DAME: The Mount Nelson Hotel.

Sure, this three-star hotel is a bit frayed around the edges, part of its charm I think. But it more than compensates with its:

  • Location, location, location – it’s close to buzzing Kloof Street, Table Mountain and the centre of the city.
  • Amiable and helpful staff.
  • Tasty buffet breakfast (included in the rate).
  • Facilities such as free WiFi, bar and complimentary tea and coffee in the lounge;
  • Pool area – although I didn’t actually do the water baby thing, I spent my downtime getting horizontal on one of the deck chairs.

Apart from providing a comfortable base for my Cape Town trip, the Lady Hamilton Hotel also provided a fab boho-colonial setting for the Diptyque Eau Capitale pics featured in this post.

Disclaimer: I paid for two nights (R890 per night on a bed and breakfast basis) for a standard twin room with shower at the hotel and was given one night free in exchange for coverage on my blog. For more information on the hotel and bookings, read here.