Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using the term “modern classic”. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.
I’ve found myself returning to it many times this year. There’s something undeniably comforting and timeless about wearing this scent. During the worst of lockdown earlier this year when venturing beyond the confines of the flat was fraught with all sorts of imagined risks and fears, my beloved TDH brought the beauty of nature directly to me.
“It has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents.”
Launched in 2006 (and also available in highly recommended Parfum and Eau Intense Vetiver EDP versions), it has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents. “Feeling the earth, lying on the ground, gazing at the sky,” is how the legendary perfumer described it, according to the French luxury brand’s website.
Its appeal is evident from the get-go. Notes of slightly sweet orange and tart grapefruit provide a perfect balance of sunny and uplifting citrus. While this citrus is unusually present throughout, a gentle twist of black pepper brings a spicy and earthy component to the composition.
The drydown is wonderfully woody, with a combo of cedar, patchouli and vetiver in play. The latter deserves a special mention. While characteristically earthy, its freshness is also what makes TDH so memorable.
Interestingly, according to Women’s Wear Daily, Ellena decided not to use musk notes when creating it. “Musk creates a mask on the skin,” he said, “So each time [it is worn], the fragrance is unique.”
Officially a men’s fragrance, Terre d’Hermès is absolutely unisex and is accompanied by a range of grooming products, including a hair and body shower gel, shaving foam, perfumed soap and after-shave lotion.
Terre d’Hermès EDT is available from Woolworths.. R1 485 for 50ml and R1 980 for 100ml.
Someone at Chanel deserves a raise! I’m not the only one who enjoys wearing a fragrance when it’s bedtime. Preferably something soft and comforting. And now the French luxury company has come up with a scent specifically for this essential nocturnal rejuvenation: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée.
“It’s relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor.”
Coco Mademoiselle made its debut in 2001 and has gone onto become a best-seller. If the original was stimulating, extroverted and big on the patchouli, then Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor. This is Chanel, after all.
It was created by Olivier Polge, who’s been increasingly making his mark as in-house perfumer since 2015 with releases such as Boy Chanel, Gabrielle and the Les Eaux de Chanel range.
HOUSE PERFUMER: Olivier Polge is increasingly making his mark at Chanel. Image: Chanel.
WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE?
It opens with a touch of mandarin orange. This note can be invigorating, but here it’s suitably soothing. Jasmine and rose sounds like a heady and intoxicating combination, but in Polge’s skilful hands, this floral accord is subdued yet sensual at the same time. The signature patchouli is still there, but very much in the background. Dollops of clean white musk complete the composition.
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is a straightforward scent, but that doesn’t take away from its elegance and suitability as a bedtime companion. It has a hazy, dreamy feel, in which none of the elements feels overly defined.
While it was conceptualised before our current Covid situation, its launch is perfectly timed. Who couldn’t do with some sleep-enhancing reassurance in 2020 à la Chanel? Judging from all the IG posts I’m already seeing on this release, Chanel has a hit on its hands. Will other brands start releasing night versions of their scents too?
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée, R2 315 for 100ml. For more information, read here.
2020 has affected us all in many ways. For perfumer Christèle Jacquemin it’s been one of highs (her debut perfume, Christèle Jacquemin Impermanence, was nominated in The Art and Olfaction Awards 2020 in the Artisan category), frustrations (postponed plans and travels) and adapting to the new normal.
Christèle Jacquemin returned to France after 18 years in Spain and is now based in Valliguières, a village near her hometown of Avignon. Since the launch of her company almost a year ago, the 48-year-old has started making a name for herself with her multi-sensory approach to fragrance.
Her debut collections – Impermanence, Meandering Soul and Underworld – feature photographic artwork (the starting point of her creative process), an EDP, home fragrance oil and artisan soap. Look out for my review of Christèle Jacquemin Impermanence on my Instagram page (@richgoller).
Image: Supplied.
In this interview, Christèle Jacquemin talks about inspiration, running a business and the award nomination.
How and why did you get into perfumery?
By accident. I was working in France for a consulting firm, with all my colleagues travelling mainly to Africa, and my job made it difficult for me to travel. So I looked for another job that would make that possible.
I found a job opportunity in southern Spain where they were looking for an area sales manager for Africa. This company is in the fragrance and flavour industry. I was lucky enough to be hired.
Image: Supplied.
Where did you train? And what was the most important thing you learned there?
I have been in this industry for the last 20 years. I trained first with all the customers I met. I knew nothing about perfumes. What I learned is that it is quite a complex product to sell. Actually you do not sell, customers buy from you. There is no way to convince them when they do not like a smell. We all smell differently, and that’s okay.
“There is no way to convince customers when they do not like a smell. We all smell differently, and that’s okay.”
After spending 17 years in the same company, I quit my job and trained at Cinquième Sens in Paris to learn how to make perfumes. It was quite a thing to add this knowledge to my ground experience.
MULTI-SENSORY EXPERIENCE: Meandering Soul III is one of Christèle Jacquemin’s photographic artworks. Image: Supplied.
When did you officially launch your company? As a creative soul, do you enjoy running a business?
I officially launched my brand in October 2019, which corresponded with my first multi-sensory exhibition in Avignon. It took me a couple of years to get everything set up. I trained to get basic knowledge in running a business. The idea behind all this is to keep on travelling. I really focused on starting in the best possible conditions to make that possible.
Image: Supplied.
How has the coronavirus situation affected you, personally and professionally?
Personally, I have not been affected hopefully. But professionally, all the olfactive workshops and exhibitions scheduled from March to September have been either cancelled or postponed. But in the end, all this available time has been quite productive in a different way.
Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, but you also bring photography to the mix. How do they inspire you?
Photography is a means of expressing my mood. I might be in China, but what I photograph is how I feel at that precise moment. It’s also a way of removing myself from the present. I can be elsewhere in an imaginary world. I love to feel this way.
“I can be elsewhere in an imaginary world. I love to feel this way.”
You were so generous to send me your award-nominated Impermanence. I chose it as the name spoke to me in the current Covid situation. Using it as an example, tell us more about your creative process. Are you more of a technical or intuitive perfumer?
I am an intuitive perfumer. What I try to transmit in the fragrance are my travel sensations. I travel with my camera and a notebook. They are the base of my inspiration to create the scent of the travel. For Impermanence, I wanted to convey a state of well-being I felt while there [Jinze, a town in the suburbs of Shanghai], as well as important smells that remind me of the trip like ginger and green tea.
Congrats on the Art and Olfaction Awards 2020 nomination. Who was the first person you shared this great news with?
My father. I was amazed by the news and incredibly happy at the same time. It gave me energy to keep on working hard.
Are you able to share some of your plans with my readers?
I am currently working on three new collections based on my travels before Covid-19. Ideally, I’d like to release them in November.
For more information on Christèle Jacquemin, visit the company website.
Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.
Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP
Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.
A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.
According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.
Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.
A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.
Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.
“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”
Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).
It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.
I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.
Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.
Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.
Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.
There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.
“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”
As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.
Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.
The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).
Images: Supplied.
For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.
Artistic Collaborator: Ruh Zadeh. Image: Supplied.
The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.
However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.
5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF
How do you and your husband work together?
I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!
How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?
I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.
PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.
Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?
From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.
Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?
Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…
The company turns 25 next year.How you will celebrate that achievement?
With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.
M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website.
For better and for worse, Clive Christian has become synonymous with the phrase “the most expensive perfume in the world” (see the pic below). Following its recent arrival in South Africa, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the British luxury brand. With all the hype surrounding this company, I was almost determined not to like this release from 2018. Just to be contrary. Sometimes I can be like that.
Pic: clivechristian.com.
However, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is an exquisite fragrance from top to bottom. Slightly bitter petitgrain and bergamot announce themselves in the opening. They are wrapped in a finely fresh take on cypress and a perfectly balanced spicy trio of clove, nutmeg and ginger. Amber, so over-used in recent male fragrances, is elevated to the most sophisticated resinous powderiness, with support from cedar and oakwood.
It’s a long time since I’ve come across such a seamless scent. I can believe the blurb on the website about it being a 25% pure perfume concentration that’s made from the finest ingredients.
Apparently, the brand is flying off the shelves at its South African retailer. Even though prices range from R2 800 for refill vials to R14 800 for Clive Christian Jump Up And Kiss Me Hedonistic. (At the time of writing this post, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress costs R9 900 / £395 / $550 for 50ml.)
DISTURBIA
And this is where this post ventures into troubled territory. In a country with one of the highest levels of inequality in the world, an unemployment rate of 30%+, and an increasingly bleak national mood exacerbated by Covid-19, I’m disturbed that such amounts can be spent so freely on a fragrance. I type these words, and I feel judgemental and naïve and hypocritical at the same time. After all, haven’t I spent small fortunes on whatever gives me pleasure? So I will leave things there. For now.
Clive Christian fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.
“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”
However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).
IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.
So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?
It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.
Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.
And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.
I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.
Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.
I don’t normally make predictions. But having worn Montblanc Signature for the last month or so, the German luxury goods company has a big hit on its hands with this new EDP.
I won’t waste much time on the inspiration for Montblanc Signature – “the woman who is the author of her own life”. It doesn’t really tell us anything about the fragrance.
It was created by a duo of top perfumers. Guillaume Flavigny is known for creations such as Elizabeth Arden White Tea, Balmain Ambre Gris and Comme des Garcons Black. Nathalie Gracia-Cetto has produced Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky, Rochas Moustache and Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, among others. Both know how to create commercially successful scents, and it shows in Montblanc Signature.
SO WHAT DOES MONTBLANC SIGNATURE SMELL LIKE?
It opens with the sweet and juicy citrus hues of clementine, followed by a bouquet of peony, ylang-ylang and magnolia notes. The latter’s prominence builds on the intro’s fresh and luxurious vibe. It doesn’t take long for the fragrance’s main element – white musk – to come through. Luxurious yet clean, it works in tandem with a big dose of vanilla and benzoin.
Montblanc Signature is a fairly straightforward composition – one in which you can actually smell the seven listed notes. It’s effective all the same. The brand is known for its crowd-pleasers and this new pillar will undoubtedly become a favourite. Slightly reminiscent of another brand’s musk perfumes, but with its own spin on the theme, hallelujah, it doesn’t shout generic from the get-go.
It was conceptualised and executed before our current Covid-19 world, but interestingly captures what perfumer Frank Voelkl said in a recent interview on this blog about the biggest fragrance trends this decade: “Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean.”
Montblanc Signature EDP, R880 for 30ml, R1 055 for 50ml and R1 315 for 90ml, is available at Dis-Chem.
I recently had the opportunity to interview natural perfumer Douglas Little about his work. There was also a lively discussion on Undina’s Looking Glass about natural, synthetic and “mixed media” perfumes. All of which prompted me to get going on an interview with Frank Voelkl, which I’d been wanting to do for a long time.
Something told me he would be helpful in providing valuable insights on the role of synthetics in modern perfumery. The New York-based senior perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavour company Firmenich took time out of his busy schedule to answer the questions I emailed him.
Image: Firmenich.
Before we get to those enlightening answers, a quick overview of the work of Frank Voelkl. He has earned major respect for creations and co-creations such as:
Alfred Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
Zirh Ikon EDT (2008)
Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP (2012)
Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
Image: Fragrantica.
Of course, Frank Voelkl is most famous for his work for Le Labo. He has produced the decade-defining Santal 33 (2011), Iris 39 (2006), Ylang 49 and Thé Noir 29 (2015), among others, for the NYC-based niche fragrance company.
Image: Le Labo.
Where did you study perfumery and what was the most important thing you learned there?
I did a bachelor in Chemistry in Germany and then got a degree at ISIPCA in Versailles. I always remember what the legendary Edmond Roudnitska [creator of classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Hermès Eau d’Hermès and Rochas Femme] told me during his class: “Never lose track of where you want to go with your creation and always keep the goal, what you want to achieve in mind.” It’s easy to get “distracted” when you create.
NICHE PARTNERSHIP: Frank Voelkl has created several fragrances for Le Labo.
Would modern perfumery exist without the use of synthetics / molecules?
Absolutely not. The introduction of molecules in perfumery in the late 1800s launched modern perfumery. Just think about Chanel No 5 (1921), which wouldn’t exist without its aldehydes. Dior Eau Sauvage by E. Roudnitska (1966) wouldn’t exist without Hedione. The use of molecules really allowed us to discover new paths in modern perfumery.
Image: Fragrantica.
What role do synthetics play when you’re creating a fragrance?
Molecules have always co-existed in my creations together with natural ingredients. They are equally important and both add beauty to a fragrance.
“If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line.” – Frank Voelkl
If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line. The use of a natural, which typically is a more complex and faceted ingredient, is similar to the use of a large brush stroke. Which means that molecules often have a more linear character and are more singular in smell. I use them exactly for that reason – to introduce a very particular note into my creation. Molecules also allow us to introduce notes that do not exist in nature and to explore uncharted olfactive territories. They are essential for innovation.
For example, when creating Gucci Bamboo, I used a particular molecule which added a very delicate green note recognisable throughout the fragrance, which I could not have achieved in the same way with a natural ingredient.
Image: Fragrantica.
You’ve created a number of fragrances for NYC-based niche house, Nomenclature, including Adr_rett, Holy_wood and Psy_Cou. What was the attraction of working with the founders, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero?
Karl and Carlos had approached me a while back, inviting me to work on their new brand Nomenclature. Given my enthusiasm for molecules and the fact that Firmenich has a large number of captive molecules, it made a lot of sense to me.
Karl and I actually met a few years earlier working on a project together, and we immediately seemed to understand each other well. Of course, the fact that Karl and I both have our roots in Germany is an added bonus. It has been a great pleasure working with Karl and Carlos since the beginning, and am happy to collaborate with them on their beautiful brand.
ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature, which showcases exclusive molecules in perfumery. Image: Nomenclature.
Referring to Nomenclature Psy_Cou, which showcases coumarin. tell us about the beauty of this molecule and its influence on modern perfumery.
I still remember smelling coumarin for the first time in my life when it was presented to me as one of the first raw materials from the ingredient training at ISIPCA. It’s creamy, almondy and, to me, immediately triggered a sensation of comfort.
First used in Fougère Royale by Houbigant, it has since had an important role to play in men’s fougère structures, but has also made its way into many women’s fragrances. It is present in nature as well, in many aromatic essential oils or in hay extract, for example.
Image: WorthPoint.
Which recently created molecule are you particularly excited about and how have you used it?
We have a few recent captive molecules at Firmenich that are very exciting olfactively, a new floral aldehydic one, in particular, that I use for an aquatic transparent, yet powerful women’s fragrance. Sorry, but I can’t tell you more about it than that.
In recent years, there’s been increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients in beauty products, including fragrances. Is this a good thing for perfumery? And ultimately for the environment?
I’m glad you ask this question because I think that there is a really important message that consumers need to know. As much as anything natural is perceived to be good for you and anything synthetic as inferior, the use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.
“The use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.”
If all fragrances were made only of naturals, our world supply would be exhausted quite rapidly. In addition, any ingredient used in fragrances, naturals or molecules, is tested before use and has to pass the same standards.
Image: Ermenegildo Zegna.
What will be the major trendS in perfumery this decade?
Starting a decade with a major pandemic has certainly had a great impact on perfumery trends. Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean. They’re increasingly looking for fragrances that make them feel good and like to know the source of the ingredients used in fragrances. Sustainability and social impact are also important factors influencing consumers in their choices. Olfactive trends will align with these criteria.
Le Labo and Nomenclature fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Douglas Little achieved a level of infamy Oscar Wilde would have approved of in January 2020. The “This Smells Like My Vagina” candle he created for Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle portal, Goop, got mega media coverage ranging from indignant outrage to ecstatic approval – and sold out along the way (it’s now back in stock here). Such notoriety shouldn’t come as a surprise for a perfumer who named his natural fragrances company Heretic, which he launched in 2016.
Of course, there’s more to Douglas Little than being known as “Gwyneth Paltrow’s perfumer”. After studying at Syndicat National des Fabricants de Produits Aromatiques in Grasse, he founded D. L. & Co.: Modern Alchemists and Purveyors of Curious Goods. It focused on perfumed candles, jewellery and lifestyle products. He later went on to create installations for luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Barney’s New York and Bergdorf Goodman. The Californian has also worked with celebrities such as Dita Von Teese, Lady Gaga and Bette Midler.
When I was contacted by Douglas Little’s PR to interview him, his latest collaboration with Gwyneth Paltrow, the “This Smells Like My Orgasm” candle, hadn’t been launched yet. So this interview predates the controversy this new product will undoubtedly create.
I’d like to state that while I haven’t smelled any of the products featured in this blog-post, I get the strong impression that Douglas Little is a highly creative perfumer with a knack for harnessing the power of sensuality, provocative marketing and humour.
So let’s get that question out of the way first. How did the “Smells Like My Vagina” candle get its name?
When I develop fragrances with Gwyneth Paltrow we start with several different essential oils. I also love to show her things that are more radical and experimental.
I was sharing an ingredient with her and she said, “This smells like my vagina”, and of course we laughed hysterically and it became a joke. Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.
“Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.”
When I first brought the candle to Gwyneth it was intended as a limited release for Goop Summit and it sold out within about 45 minutes. That’s how the vagina candle story got started, in this very humble and innocent way. We certainly didn’t know what the response would be and it’s been exciting to see how people have fallen in love with it.
STAR POWER: Douglas Little with Gwyneth Paltrow.
Are you worried this candle will overshadow your other achievements?
Not in the least. “This Smells Like My Vagina” is an interesting product, because it’s one that provokes curiosity. Any stigma that was wrapped around anything relating to the vagina is being felt and this candle encourages healthy conversations and humour.
When did you start working with Goop and are there future projects in the works?
I started working with Goop in 2017. I was hired by Gwyneth to be the nose for her four fragrance editions, Number 1, 2, 3 and 4. We have two really exciting releases coming out this year.
How has the coronavirus affected your work?
It’s been devastating for everyone. It was hard because we had to restructure our team, but we are trying to look at the glass half full. The coronavirus has forced us to look at the important aspects of the business and what makes us unique. We are a fragrance company that creates fragrance made from naturally derived materials.
We’re radically transparent about what we do and are excited to share the healing and functional elements of how fragrance can enhance people’s lives. That’s been a really important conversation during this time.
How do you think the coronavirus is affecting our attitude towards fragrance?
People are paying much more attention to the effects of fragrance and the way it can influence your state of mind. Many of us have gone through various stages of isolation/depression, from being sad to angry to frustrated. These emotions can be altered with fragrance.
Being at home and self-isolated, you miss going out and having a walk on the beach, in the park or in the forest. A candle or a perfume can help shift your point of view for a minute.
“People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you.”
People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you. It can help you to relax or to go to sleep, it can transform the room that you’re stuck in all day by lighting a candle or putting on perfume. It’s a very small action that can have a big effect.
You’re known for your love of natural fragrances. Many of my favourite fragrances are defined by their use of synthetics. How would you sell natural fragrances to me? And what do you mean by “natural?”
Natural fragrance is made from 100% naturally derived materials. “Naturally derived” is a term that’s specified by an agency called the ISO, meaning that the product is from a natural source. All of the materials we work with are naturally derived. In other words, they actually have to start out as a natural product.
The difference between natural and synthetic fragrances is that synthetic fragrances last longer. They can have a lot more of what I would call softer nuances to them. But they can also be overwhelming. Synthetics are engineered in a laboratory to be very fragrant, whereas with naturally derived materials, the fragrance is a by-product of the natural material itself. As a result, the fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them. It’s easier for people to identify the fragrance notes in naturally derived fragrances than in synthetic fragrances.
“Naturally derived fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them.”
The other important reason for naturally derived fragrance is that they are free from the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances. About 90% of the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances are petrol derived.
I wanted to create a product that was dramatically different from anything else that was currently on the market. The main reason people don’t use naturally derived materials on a more regular basis is because of their cost and they don’t necessarily appeal to everyone, whereas synthetic fragrances appeal to a broad audience. They are inexpensive, but can also be toxic.
How do you approach the creation of fragrance? Is it a technical or artistic process for you?
It’s both. I start with a concept. I build off of an idea and then start to figure out how to work with naturally derived materials to create that idea. It’s a two-part process and part of the reason I love fragrance so much is because it is equal parts art and science.
Do you have a philosophy as such? Is your company’s name “Heretic” a reflection of that?
Yes. The reason I chose the name Heretic is because when I first started this company, I wanted to do a line of fragrance derived from 100% natural materials. I was told that I was insane, that it was impossible and would never sell. I was also told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives and heretics from a very astute perfume company. It was my mission to prove them wrong.
“I was told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives. It was my mission to prove them wrong.”
What will be the key trends in fragrance this decade?
Going back to the basics. As a consumer and watching the habits of consumers, we are all inundated with information. We are moving at such a rapid rate and we’re expected to perform at such a high velocity. There is a need for more simplicity.
For more info on Douglas Little, visit douglaslittle.com and Heretic Parfum. All pics of Douglas Little and associated products supplied.
