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Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites: Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso Di Toscana EDT + L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP + Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga EDP + Amouage Jubilation Man XXV EDP + L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup EDT

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.

While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.

“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”

This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.

Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT

This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.

An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP 

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP

Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.

Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP

Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.

I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.

Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT: 40 Years Of The Loud & Proud 80s Icon

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

I recently posted about some much-needed cheerful cheapies. I deliberately left Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT off that list. With its 40th anniversary this year, it warrants a post all of its own.

It was the launch fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that was originally founded in the 1960s and that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map . The store’s owner Fred Hayman launched Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”. Echoing the awning outside the store, the yellow-and-white box proclaimed the boldness of the scent in no uncertain terms.

From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, this Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. In a very 80s way. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants at the time due to its overpowering style. Which just adds to its allure. For me, anyway.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting.

“This Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious.”

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

This generous fragrance keeps giving till the end. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla and sandalwood notes.

Four decades and several changes in ownership later, my sources at Elizabeth Arden (which now has the licence for the brand) tell me there’s nothing special planned for the anniversary in the way of limited editions, etc.

That suits me fine, as long as Giorgio Beverly Hills is available at my local pharmacy on the budget shelves for the price of R550 or so (the equivalent of less than $40).

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

 

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Thibaud Crivelli (Of Maison Crivelli) Interview: “The Focus Is Not On Myself, But On What Other People Will Feel”

Thibaud Crivelli

It’s intriguing to see buzz (as opposed to hype) develop around a perfume brand. And there’s plenty of that when it comes to Maison Crivelli. Founded in 2018 by Thibaud Crivelli, the Paris-based niche company focuses on fragrances inspired by his experiences.

When Thibaud Crivelli moved to China in 2006 and lived in various Asian countries, he was exposed to raw material plantations. This has given the entrepreneur / explorer unique insights into perfumery.

Thibaud Crivelli

Maison Crivelli arrived at South Africa’s leading niche retailer Skins Cosmetics late last year, just when I was starting to see it more on Instagram. I knew I had to interview Thibaud Crivelli after trying four of his fragrances. Please see my reviews of these at the end of this post.

Before I emailed him the questions, I had an intro Zoom chat with Thibaud Crivelli. He came across as being approachable, articulate and passionate about his company and perfume in general.

Thibaud Crivelli

All images supplied by Maison Crivelli, except for Santal Volcanique, Bois Datchai, Absinthe Boreale and Papyrus Moleculaire, which are my own.

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, but that’s not Maison Crivelli’s approach. How is your perspective different?

Perfume is a living experience and changes with time and different skin types. But more than this, our perception of perfume will also change depending on the environment we are in. All sensorial elements are connected and create a unique perfume experience.

“I chose not to reveal where I was to enable other people to connect with perfume and live their own personal journey.” – Thibaud Crivelli

Perfume is always personal, but sometimes it can be difficult to explain. So it was important for me to guide people into a deeper, more intimate and better understanding of perfume. The focus is not on myself, but on what other people will feel.

Each perfume is inspired by surprising experiences of discovery that I have lived. However, I chose not to reveal where I was to enable other people to connect with perfume and live their own personal journey. In addition, what matters to me is not where I am or where I go, but rather how I live each moment. The experience matters much more than the location.

When did you know you wanted to launch your own perfume house?

This has always been a childhood dream. I started to connect with perfume ingredients at a young age. I also grew up in a family of entrepreneurs as my dad is pharmacist and created his own cosmetic range.

And how did you go about it?

I started by myself and then gradually initiated collaborations with various partners (perfumers, suppliers, distributors, etc). For any entrepreneurial venture, the key aspect is to be fully aware of what we can do ourselves, and what we cannot do. For the latter, it’s vital to work with partners we trust and who understand our expectations and mission.

Thibaud Crivelli

Have perfumes always appealed to you?   

I have always had a strong connection with perfume ingredients, mostly thanks to a connection with nature across all seasons. My understanding of perfume became more accurate when I lived in Asia, as I got the opportunity to visit plantations and markets. The last step of my personal fragrance journey has been to discover more the aspect of creation.

Thibaud Crivelli

Your wide travels have exposed you to the wonderful world of raw materials. Why are they so important to you?

Raw materials are a fundamental part of perfumery – they are the basis to work with. A deep understanding of raw materials is not essential to enjoy a fragrance. However, understanding raw materials is essential when it comes to creating and working with perfumers directly. Exploring areas where raw materials are cropped has helped me to discover them in a better and more sensorial way – not just in a technical way.

Thibaud Crivelli

You describe your fragrances as “slow perfumes”. What do you mean by that phrase?

Taking time is an important aspect of perfume creation and discovery. We take the necessary time to remember the most surprising experiences of perfume discovery, find the best perfumers, create the scent, source the best raw materials (which are sometimes even hand-picked to preserve the best quality). Eventually we also invite everyone to take a bit more time than usual to discover perfume in a more qualitative way.

Thibaud Crivelli

What’s been your greatest challenge since launching in 2018?

Increasing brand awareness, as there are lots of new launches every year.

You run the brand’s IG page and personally replied to my initial contact there. Is that a conscious choice? How large is your team?

We have a team of five people, but it is important for me to have direct contact with clients and the teams in the stores. I am happy to take the time to keep in touch with everyone.

“It is important for me to have direct contact with clients and the teams in the stores. I am happy  to keep in touch with everyone.”

I love all the Maison Crivelli fragrances I’ve tried so far.
Papyrus Moleculaire is particularly distinctive. Why did you choose Leslie Girard to create it?

Leslie understood our brief instantly and she is very skilled at creating woody notes with long-lastingness and sillage. On top she is a lovely person and the connection has always been incredible.

Thibaud Crivelli

INCREDIBLE CONNECTION: Leslie Girard created Papyrus Moleculaire for Maison Crivelli. Thibaud Crivelli admires her deftness with woody notes.

How do your brief the perfumers you choose to work with?   

I narrate the experiences I have lived and send a mood-board composed of photographs, videos, sounds, colours and textures. The objective is to translate all the sensorial elements of that moment and encapsulate them in a perfume.

Thibaud Crivelli

IN THE MOOD: Thibaud Crivelli’s perfumers include, clockwise from top left, Bertrand Duchaufour, Stephanie Bakouche, Nathalie Feisthauer and Dorothée Piot.

As a self-proclaimed perfectionist, what would you like to improve on Maison Crivelli?

We always do our best to work on the originality and the balance of the perfumes. The most difficult aspect is to reach the moment when the perfumer and myself both know that we have finalised the creation.

You have launched a new fragrance in February 2021. What can you tell us about it? Any other developments we should be aware of? 

The new creation is named Osmanthe Kōdoshān. It is inspired by a discovery of osmanthus flowers on the slopes of a mystical mountain shrouded in mist. We will also soon launch a new collection of perfume extracts in collaboration with Quentin Bisch.

Thibault Crivelli

MAISON CRIVELLI REVIEWS

One would expect a fragrance inspired by “the experience of the scent of scorched sandalwood on the slopes of an erupting volcano” to be unusual and intriguing. And that’s exactly what the brand’s 2018 debut and current best-seller created by Richard Ibanez delivers in abundance. Warm spiciness (ginger and cardamom) mingles with a rich, uncompromising and almost burnt take on sandalwood that mellows with coffee absolute and musks as it develops sensually on the skin.

Thibault Crivelli

Maison Crivelli Papyrus Moleculaire EDP

Papyrus is a surprisingly common note in perfumery, but there’s nothing common about its treatment in this 2020 release. Leslie Girard successfully translates inspiration – “discovering papyrus root powder with a group of tattooed women smoking cigarillos” – into vibrant reality. Fresh spiciness (coriander and elemi) gives way to cuddly tobacco while the headline note is powdered and leathered to perfection.

Thibaud Crivelli

Maison Crivelli Absinthe Boreale EDP

Absinthe’s reputation precedes it, but there’s no danger of hallucinating under the influence of this friendly 2019 release created by Nathalie Feisthauer. There’s no missing the artemisia (wormwood), the herb used to give flavour and aroma to the notorious spirit, but it’s softened with a clean mix of lavender, mint, lemon, balsam fir and musk. A beautifully cool composition that deftly balances its herbal and aromatic aspects.

Thibault Crivelli

Maison Crivelli Bois Datchai EDP

I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release created by Dorothée Piot. The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness. The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli. Another cuppa please!

Thibaud Crivelli

For more info on Maison Crivelli, visit the brand’s website.

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Cheapies Ahoy! Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP + Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT + Revlon Charlie Gold EDP + Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT + Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP

Cheap Fragrances

Finding a good, albeit expensive, perfume is a cinch. There’s so much choice and ultimately, the only limitation is the health of your bank account. Finding good cheap fragrances is an altogether different beast.

So in these economically tough times, it’s time to sniff out some cheerful cheap fragrances. Interestingly, the industry hates to call them “cheapies”. I was once corrected by the PR for a well-known American beauty company that they call them “value-for-money” products.

Cheap Fragrances

Whatever you call them, here are some standouts. What are your favourite cheap fragrances?

Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP (Carlos Benaim)

Before your eyes roll, Elizabeth Taylor is one of the pioneers of the celeb fragrance category and her scents are good in a big and bold way.

Inspired by the legendary British actor’s eye colour, this EDP was released in 2010, a year before she moved on to the big mansion in the sky. A bouquet of florals follows the opening of juicy peach. I’m talking opulent notes of rose, jasmine and peony, with powderiness galore. Cedar stands out in the drydown.

Cheap Fragrances

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT

The Elizabeth Arden Green Tea line has been around since 1999. Worthwhile variations on the theme include Pomegranate, Mimosa and Fig.

Green Tea Pear Blossom is the most recent addition and it’s as uplifting and pretty as it sounds. Pear and pear tree blossom are evident from the start and create a breezy fruity-floral vibe that’s balanced by green tea and mate. It settles on a base of musks.

Cheap Fragrances

Revlon Charlie Gold EDP

People of a certain age might remember Revlon Charlie from the 1970s and the accompanying advertising of confident and liberated women.

The original has spawned 20+ flankers and Charlie Gold EDP, released in 1995, is one of the best (please overlook the crap cap). There’s a slight aldehydic feel at first and then it’s fruit (apricot, peach, plum) and spice (cinnamon, cloves) all the way to the musky drydown. Lots of fun!

Cheap Fragrances

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

With almost 600 releases to its name, the Spanish fast fashion retailer has a bit of a reputation as a fast fragrance retailer, too. While many of them feel churned out, this 2016 launch is probably one of their most popular and highly rated.

A big hit of tropical-ish honey and coconut features here, but there’s enough warm and cuddly tobacco to warrant it being called a tobacco scent. The sandalwood in the drydown is creamy deluxe. It all adds up to create a sweet treat with gourmand tendencies.

Cheap Fragrances

Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP

The Yardley English Blazer range reflects the British origins of the brand (it’s now owned by Indian company Wipro) and comprises gentlemanly versions such as Green, Black and Red.

There are those who think this EDP smells like Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb and they are right, up to a point, due to their shared notes of grapefruit, cinnamon and vetiver. It lacks the complexity and depth of that best-seller, but still delivers cheap thrills at a fraction of the price.

Cheap Fragrances

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Anselm Skogstad (of Der Duft) Interview: Saying So Much Through Minimalism

Anselm Skogstad

Launching a perfume company at any time takes balls. Launching a perfume company in 2020, of all years, takes balls of steel. And dollops of optimism and a strongly defined vision. All of which Anselm Skogstad of Der Duft seems to have in abundance.

Anselm Skogstad

The visual artist / photojournalist-turned-perfumer / director kindly sent me a bottle of Der Duft Bubble, one of the fragrances from the Germany-based company’s launch collection. If this EDP created by Alexandre Illan (Rammstein Kokain and Thameen Noorolain Taif) is anything to go by, the company is set to find its own space.

BUBBLE BOY: Alexandre Illan, creator of Der Duft Bubble. All images, except Der Deft Bubble, supplied.

Luxurious and uplifting, the bubbly stuff happens to be my favourite tipple. And it’s always intriguing to see how it’s translated olfactively. Unfortunately, it’s often given the girlie fizz treatment. No such issues with Bubble.

The EDP opens with a distinctive and slightly fruity take on Champagne. It already feels like a glass of the best. It’s infused with a liberal dose of cassis, its green sharpness balanced by a note of fruity rose. There’s also a hint of slightly spicy chamomile in the mix.

Alexandre Illan

A clean combo of white musk and ambrette (the naturally derived musk) meets sandalwood in the drydown. The pear-ish characteristics of the ambrette and the creaminess of the sandalwood perfectly complement the intro and give the composition complex continuity.

I asked Anselm Skogstad about the launch of his company, his approach and working with perfumers.

“I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.”

Why did you decide to launch your own fragrance company?

I envisioned a fragrance company where the unique quality of perfumes, the style and aesthetic transcend time. The collection invites people to feel inspired by the scents and names of each perfume. I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.

Anselm Skogstad

I was aware of my fascination in collaborating with perfumers. It became clear that my brand would have to include both my own creations and perfumes created by selected perfumers I admire.

I strive for Der Duft to become a representation of a carefully selected collection of perfumes of outstanding quality. The concept is very clean and minimalist, which is also reflected visually in the product design.

How long was the launch in the making? And how did the Covid situation affect IT?

I was brainstorming the idea since 2018, simply calling the brand Der Duft (German for “The Scent”). Covid certainly affected the launch, as it created uncertainty and fear worldwide. Retail had to close their doors and high-end perfumes were less of a priority to people. Understandably so!

 

What’s your background and has perfume always played a big part in your life?

My love for perfumes started when I was a child and enjoyed smelling fragrances while admiring the fancy packaging and advertising. For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. Instead, I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist (anselmskogstad.com).

“For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist.”

Anselm Skogstad

FULL OF SURPRISES: Anselm Skogstad with Miguel Matos, creator of Der Duft Cinematic.

The inspiration and motivation to change my career focus also needs to be credited to a dear friend of mine, a perfume expert based in Hong Kong. I am forever thankful to have found my love for perfumes again, this immensely beautiful and powerful art form.

You’re also a perfumer and created Der Duft Monopteros and Der Duft Grasse. Where did you study perfumery?

I studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery. This was a humbling experience and a substantial help in working as the director of Der Duft.

“Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction. In fact, I am thrilled if they surprise me.”

Using Der Duft Bubble as an example, tell us how you approach the creation of a fragrance with your perfumers?

Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction or guidance. In fact, I am thrilled if the perfumer surprises me. The goal is also to understand and respect the perfumers’ olfactive language and talent. Although I make the final choice which of the perfumer’s proposed creation is selected for Der Duft, the actual working process itself remains their own.

Anselm Skogstad

Finding a suitable name for each perfume is a distinctly exciting part of the creation process. This goes hand in hand while creating, perfecting and discovering the best new creation together with a perfumer.

Do you have any new releases planned for 2021?

Yes, I am excited about the new creation by Prin Lomros, called Act. Visit derduft.com for additional information and to subscribe to our newsletter.

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Africa-Inspired Fragrances: Fertile Ground For The Imagination

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

While Africa isn’t a major market for perfume consumption, it is one for the sourcing of raw materials such as vanilla (Madagascar), African orange blossom (Tunisia) and Atlas cedar (Morocco). But my first blog post of 2021 isn’t about that topic. It’s about Africa-inspired fragrances.

“The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers.”

The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers. And for good reason. In the scheme of things (and while not indulging in any colonial stereotypes), Africa is still relatively undiscovered and exotic when compared to other continents.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

With Covid-19 continuing to rage in South Africa and any travel remaining verboten, my Africa inspired fragrances are a vital outlet for my own imaginings and yearnings.

There are some glaring omissions from this Africa-inspired fragrances round-up: Au Coeur du Désert, 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle and 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain, all by Tauer, and which I’m embarrassed to admit I haven’t tried yet.

Do you have any favourite Africa-inspired fragrances?

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

ELLA K CRI DU KALAHARI EDP* (SONIA CONSTANT)

I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the Kalahari Desert and its beautifully named omuramba (the Herero word for the ancient riverbeds situated in the border area of Botswana and Namibia). So I’m happy to travel there vicariously courtesy of Ella K Cri du Kalahari. This 2019 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house founded by top perfumer Sonia Constant is inspired by evenings spent in this desert.

The EDP opens with the slight spice of green pepper and then gives way to a dense treatment of sandalwood and cedar to evoke the spectacular baobab trees in the area. Patchouli adds to the sense of earthy and woody moistness in the otherwise dry landscape.

Two other Africa-inspired fragrances from the brand are also worth sniffing out: Ella K Epupa Mon Amour EDP and Reflet Sur L’Okavango EDP.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

RALPH LAUREN SAFARI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Ralph Lauren Safari is officially for women, but is, in fact, perfectly unisex. It also happens to be a 90s classic created by the legendary Dominique Ropion (Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Mugler Alien, YSL L’Homme).

This EDP opens with an authentic marigold note and a smattering of orange in the background. The heart is all about florals and features a rich display of narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley notes. It then takes a woody and earthy turn with notes of sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli all working together in unison. The beauty of this fragrance is how is flows from start to finish to create something complex and unique.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BERDOUES MAASAÏ MARA (PHILIPPE ROMANO)

Berdoues is a fourth-generation, family-owned perfume business. Their Collection Grands Crus focuses on feel-good blends that recall destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

This mellow and warm 2017 release takes its cue from Kenya’s famous national reserve. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape in the brand’s straightforward style.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart of this EDT, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence from the Paris-based niche fragrance pioneer!

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP* (JEROME EPINETTE)

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this Jerome Epinette creation.

The tone is set from the opening with its citrus notes of lemon and neroli, and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of the vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the drydown.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

MEMO MOROCCAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo taps into it better than most, with perfumes influenced by their founders’ travel memories. The brand’s African Leather is a modern classic, but this 2018 release from the Cuirs Nomades Collection is well worth discovering, too.

Bitter green galbanum is one of the first notes to stand out. It’s deftly balanced by floral notes of orange blossom and ylang-ylang, while ginger brings market spice. The combo of dry vetiver, powdery iris and a deep leather accord make the drydown particularly memorable.

4711 ACQUA COLONIA INTENSE SUNNY SEASIDE OF ZANZIBAR (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Many of us know 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. What’s less well known perhaps is the brand’s range of intense, longer-lasting colognes that includes variations such as Floral Fields of Ireland, Wakening Woods of Scandinavia and Pure Breeze of Himalaya. Launched in 2019, Sunny Seaside of Zanzibar lives up to its island holiday inspiration with aplomb.

The opening features an appealing combo of fresh watermelon and softly spicy aniseed notes. The tropical vibe builds up with a melange of coconut, frangipani, musk and vanilla notes, eventually settling on a woody base of vetiver and cedar. It’s sunny escapist stuff at its best.

*These Africa-inspired fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Aquatic Fragrances Three Ways: Bvlgari Aqua Pour Homme + Heeley Sel Marin + Memo Ocean Leather

Aquatic Fragrances

For Covid-19 second-wave reasons, I shan’t be seeing the sea this time of year, as I’d hoped to do. But that won’t stop me from bringing the sea home when I have these three aquatic fragrances at my disposal.

Now, I have a conflicted relationship with the ocean. I find being near it calming and relaxing, especially the whooshing sound and salty breeze-laden smell. But I don’t necessarily enjoy being in it. Silly, I know…

BVLGARI AQUA POUR HOMME EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER-BELLETRUD)

Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, especially on the designer side, but many haven’t dated well. This popular Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (currently Louis Vuitton’s in-house perfumer) creation from 2005 is not one of those has-beens.

“Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, but many haven’t dated well.”

It opens in fresh citrus mode with notes of sweet mandarin orange and green petitgrain. It’s an uplifting combo. The seaweed note is subtly salty, its aromatic profile accentuated by lavender. Woody notes, specifically Virginia cedar and patchouli, continue the softness in the drydown. The amber is kept to a thankful minimum.

It’s a sophisticated, slightly restrained take on the theme. Great bottle too – the blue and green spherical shape captures its inspiration oh so cleverly.

Aquatic Fragrances

HEELEY SEL MARIN EDP* (JAMES HEELEY)

Wow! This 2008 release is a masterstroke. But that should come as no surprise. It’s a creation from the Yorkshire-born / Paris-based perfumer who’s responsible for beauties such as Heeley Cardinal (2006) and Heeley L’Amandière (2011). His skills are displayed to maximum effect in Sel Marin (French for “sea salt”).

Aquatic Fragrances

The intro is sharp, with citrus notes of bergamot and lemon conjuring a fresh sea breeze. It doesn’t take long for the main attraction to come into focus: a wondrous splash of moss, algae and, in particular, sea salt notes. Many aquatic fragrances are heavy-handed on the sea salt. This one gets it exactly right. The drydown is all about driftwoods, with fresh cedar and vetiver supported by clean musk and a hint of leathery birch.

Although inspired by sunny days at the beach, I get a far moodier and tempestuous feel. Either way, it’s as realistic as it gets.

Aquatic Fragrances

MEMO OCEAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo does some of the best leather fragrances in the biz for their Cuir Nomades Collection. From Irish to African, there’s always an interesting interpretation.

As the beautifully designed bottle will tell you, the latest 2020 release, Memo Ocean Leather, takes its inspiration from the sperm whale. But just to clarify matters, it’s not an ambergris fragrance.

Aquatic Fragrances

There’s a burst of mandarin orange at first. It’s contrasted with the fresh aromatics of basil and the powder of violet. The aromatics continue in the form of clary sage absolute, but it’s the elemi that really stands out, with its terpenic qualities. The drydown features a leather accord that’s given earthy depth with notes of nutmeg and vetiver.

Of the three aquatic fragrances featured here, it’s the least literal interpretation, but intriguing nevertheless.

Aquatic Fragrances

*Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum Review

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

We all knew Francis Kurkdjian was a highly accomplished perfumer before he launched his own eponymously named niche fragrance house in 2009. And then from 2012, he upped his credentials even more, as the king of oud, with a succession of top-quality releases. These include Oud EDP (2012), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015) and Oud Silk Mood EDP (2018). I’ve recently fallen under the spell of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum.

I got the opportunity to interview the Paris-based perfumer over a year ago. I asked him about working with oud and he said: “It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”

“It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”

While I wouldn’t describe Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum as particularly animalic, boy is it special!

Infused with slightly peppery and resinous warmth, elemi from the Philippines opens this 2018 release. There’s then the waft of fine and luxurious musk. Interesting to note that Kurkdjian uses Ambrettolide, the Givaudan-produced vegetal musk renowned for its smoothness and floral undertones. It mingles with a soft take on cedar and creamy, but (thankfully) sugar-free vanilla.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

Oud is  one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, and the Laotian variety is especially prized for its depth and variations. Every time I smell it in this extrait de parfum, I get something different. From leathery and woody to fruity to powdery. It’s deftly complemented by Indonesian patchouli, with its earthy and woody nuances.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

From the listed ingredients on the brand’s website, there’s no doubt the best have been used to produce one of the most sophisticated oud perfumes around. It’s impeccably smooth, yet full of sensual depth and character.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Kenzo Jungle Review: A Most Unusual Creature

Kenzo Jungle

I didn’t officially pay tribute to Kenzo Takada when he died from Covid-19 in October 2020. So this review of Kenzo Jungle is also my belated celebration of the Japanese designer’s vibrant global aesthetic and his pioneering contribution to fashion. He moved to Paris in 1964 and lived there until his death at the age of 81, according to The Guardian.

Image: LVMH.

Even though Kenzo Jungle was launched in 1996, three years after LVMH acquired his company (he stayed on as head designer until 1999), it has his adventurous spirit throughout. As with other fragrances from the brand such as Kenzo Pour Homme (1991), L’Eau Par Kenzo Pour Femme (1996) and Kenzo Flower (2 000).

Apparently named after his first boutique in the French capital, Jungle Jap (which opened in 1970), it was created by Dominique Ropion.

Kenzo Jungle

WHAT MAKES KENZO JUNGLE SO SPECIAL

The opening is big on the spice, especially cloves and cumin. While neither of these notes is known for being shy, they also don’t go on the rampage through the proverbial perfume Jungle. A smidgen of mandarin orange brings sunny freshness to the proceedings.

Kenzo Jungle is at its boldest and most unusual in what follows. Here, the spice of cardamom and a particularly distinctive take on liquorice meet the heady florals of banana-ish ylang-ylang and gardenia. Juicy mango adds to the tropical vibe. Be warned: this liquorice is divisive stuff!

Kenzo Jungle

Featuring notes of patchouli and vanilla, the drydown is equally captivating. They maintain the appealing sweetness, without venturing into gourmand territory (although the Kenzo website claims otherwise).

Almost 25 years after its launch, Kenzo Jungle has lost none of its exotic energy. It’s the kind of fragrance that shows what’s possible when designer brands take a much-needed (and rare) risk.

Kenzo Jungle

It’s reassuring that it’s still in production (ditto the male version, although the plug was pulled on Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre, which I haven’t tried). Currently on sale at my local pharmacy for the ridiculous price of R1 250 for 100ml (approximately US$80 / £60 / €68), I’m hoping perfume-lovers will snap up this creature while they can.

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Janey Jones Interview: Author Of Perfume Paradiso

Janey Jones

Image courtesy of Janey Jones.

For someone who comes from a family of voracious readers, I’m almost ashamed to admit, I’m a v-e-r-y s-l-o-w r-e-a-d-e-r when it comes to books. However, I flew through Perfume Paradiso by Janey Jones. But that’s probably because the latest novel from the Edinburgh-based writer best known for her Princess Poppy series is breezy, page-turning rom-com stuff with interesting characters and keen observation.

Janey Jones

Image courtesy of Janey Jones.

A plot summary. A triple-S (successful, stressed and single) Charlotte Alexander travels to Montecastello, Italy to seal a lavender farm deal when she sells her artisan perfume company to a multinational. There she meets Alessio Rossini under awkward circumstances. Of course, she hates him at first, but the more time she spends in this romantic (and complicated) place…

Janey Jones was quick-quick in getting back to me on the questions I emailed her.

“I devoured information then let go of it, so that the story sounded natural.”

Why did you decide to set Perfume Paradiso in the world of perfumery?

I’m intrigued with the world of perfumery and always have been. It is glamorous and exciting, even more so than fashion. Successful artisan brands can be snapped up by bigger companies and I thought that was an interesting angle. Idealism versus realism. Purity versus commerciality. If I wasn’t a writer, I’d love to design perfume. I love the bottles, packaging, adverts and the evocation of romance.

Janey Jones

What research did you do in this regard?

I read about many perfume makers and watched interviews. I researched articles from The Perfume Society. Especially, I read about Jo Malone, Azzi Glasser, Christine Nagel, Calice Becker, Sophia Grojsman, Olivia Giacobetti, Daniela Andrier, Annick Menardo, Cecile Matton and Josephine Catapano.

NOSE HOW: Janey Jones read about Josephine Catapano and Azzi Glasser (below) as part of her research.

I devoured information then let go of it, so that the story sounded natural. Azzi Glasser read the completed story and found it authentic, so I figured that technique did work.

Are you a perfume-lover? Any favourites?

Yes, I like florals best. Jo Malone’s Red Roses Cologne. Dolce & Gabbana Dolce Garden. Chanel Chance Eau Tendre. Diptyque Fleur de Peau, Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiori. Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile.

The main character, Charlotte Alexander, is conflicted. Head vs heart. Real vs synthetic lavender. Regarding the latter, what did your research reveal?

Yes, Charlotte has been seeing the world in absolutes to focus, then comes up for air and realises there are many perspectives.

Regarding real and synthetic oils in perfume, my reading revealed that there are many plus points for synthetics, which shook me a little. They can be more environmentally sound in some cases. Problems about real ingredients include: over-harvesting, which can be detrimental to the environment, as with sandalwood. Regulations for allergens can be worked around with synthetics. Also, synthetics can avoid harm to species, for example, musk. Finally, synthetic oils can lower the cost for the consumer and achieve a wider variety of scents and varieties.

I was astounded to read that 10 000 pounds of rose blooms are required to create one pound of rose oil – so not sustainable. All that said, it sounds more authentic to use natural ingredients! It’s all about perception and the fact that perfume is luxurious and exotic in our mind.

I thoroughly enjoyed reading your book. The only thing I found incongruous was that for someone from the world of perfume, Charlotte hardly picked up on the fragrances others were wearing…

That’s a good point. She does note the fragrance of Alessio, but I guess it would be nice to see her note the scent used by Diana, Lucia and Lily [other main characters in the novel]. I will bear in mind for the TV version! Thank you.

What’s next for you?

I’m writing a TV series for this novel. I’m also planning to write a romantic crime story set in a glamorous world. I prefer escapism to kitchen sink drama.

Perfume Paradiso by Janey Jones is available at Waterstones, Amazon and independent book shops.