This year sees Diptyque marking its 60th anniversary. The Paris-based niche brand which started out as a bazaar at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain has a lot to celebrate. Since its founding in 1961 by theatre director and set designer Yves Coueslant, painter Desmond Knox-Leet and interior designer Christiane Gautrot, many of its perfumes and candles have become classics. As part of the festivities, Diptyque Orphéon was released earlier this year.
Diptyque Eau Rihla EDP has also just been released, but is exclusive to the Middle East market.
Paying homage to the company’s heritage, Diptyque Orphéon takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.
This EDP opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.
With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. Especially, as I haven’t seen the inside of a drinking spot for quite some time, thanks to Covid. But perhaps I’m being too literal and vicarious in this expectation.
It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s growing on me the more I wear it.
On a side note, it’s interesting to see Diptyque becoming more of a lifestyle brand as part of the celebrations. New ranges include pyjamas with prints inspired by some of their best-selling fragrances (Philosykos, Ombre, Do Son, L’Eau, Eau Rose) and decor items such as tumblers, plates and placemats (see below). All of which make sense, considering Diptyque’s artistic and bazaar heritage.
I normally focus on fragrance in this blog, but when I got the opportunity to interview jewellery designer Shaun Leane via a mutual friend, how could I say no.
The Londoner first made his mark in the 1990s in spectacular style with his unforgettable pieces for Alexander McQueen’s visionary fashion collections, including Highland Rape, The Hunger, Untitled and The Overlook.
Image: Edwin S Freyer.
At the time, I was captivated by the visceral drama of these pieces in brass, silver and stainless steel, although I didn’t know about the person behind the creative and technical brilliance.
HIGH IMPACT: Shaun Leane’s works for Alexander McQueen pushed him beyond the realms of his training in goldsmithery. Images: Ann Ray.
Since then, the 51-year-old’s gone on to produce an oeuvre that’s unmistakably Shaun Leane, blurring the boundaries between jewellery, fashion and art. Founded in 1999, his eponymous company offers fine jewellery, engagement rings and bespoke services, among others. His clients have included Boucheron, De Beers, Asprey, Swarovski, Kate Moss and Sarah Jessica Parker.
PRICKLY PERFECTION: A bespoke Shaun Leane thistle brooch from 2006. Alexander McQueen commissioned a pair, one for him and the other for Sarah Jessica Parker, who accompanied him to the Met Gala.
The beauty of his work is best said by one of his clients, Daphne Guinness, on shaunleane.com: “Genius lies in his work’s paradox: at once tenacious and bold and technically intricate. There is beauty in the balance: that struck between alpha and omega, tribalism and sleek modernity. It seems born of and outside of time, simultaneously conjuring fairy tales and science fiction.”
Not bad for a boy who dropped out of school to learn jewellery design in a youth training scheme and then pursued a seven-year apprenticeship to become a classically trained goldsmith (with a focus on restoring Victorian jewellery).
LABOUR OF GLOVE: Shaun Leane took four years to create the white gold evening glove, Contra Mundum, for Daphne Guinness. It features 4 290 diamonds. Image: Nick Knight.
Congrats on your business anniversary last year. That’s a remarkable achievement. To commemorate this, a book was published, which is a huge undertaking in itself. How did that come about?
The book was a celebration of 21 years of the House of Shaun Leane, it was my 50th birthday last year and also the 10th anniversary of the death of my dear friend, the late Alexander McQueen. These pivotal moments made me want to reflect on the beauty of the different facets of my career that shaped and helped me evolve to be the designer, craftsman and house we are today.
The book is a real demonstration of what can be achieved if the fear of the impossible is removed. It’s a visual journey of how I embraced my goldsmith training and skills and used that as a tool to push boundaries in the concept of jewellery design, whether that be in classical jewellery, fashion or architecture. I created a style and identity which I am proud to say I have carried through to this day and have adapted to the times we are in.
Over the years it has been incredibly flattering to speak with students who now reference my work. It fills me with pride to think that this book could become part of a blossoming new jeweller’s collection and inspire and provoke them, as much as I am by the beautiful books in my own library.
SCULPTURAL STATEMENTS: New works, all available on shaunleane.com.
How has the coronavirus situation affected business?
The advantage is that we are a multi-faceted company and have various channels ranging from retail and wholesale to online and bespoke. With the pandemic, retail and wholesale have been challenged, but online and bespoke are thriving, as in a time of uncertainty, people want to invest, financially and emotionally, in meaningful and sentimental jewellery.
BEAUTIFUL BUG: A bespoke Shaun Leane beetle brooch.
You’ve won the UK Jewellery Designer of the Year award four times. Does that come with its own pressure and expectations?
It is extremely rewarding and reflective. It shows me how grateful I am that I stayed true to my vision and aesthetic, and that I have a great team who also share the same vision. I have always had a passion, believed in the work I do and persisted with integrity. Receiving these awards make me proud of what my team and I have created over the last 20 years.
“These current times are allowing me to have space without noise – to focus on projects I have wanted to tap into for a while.”
What can we expect creatively from you this year?
These current times are allowing me to have space without noise – to focus on projects and collections I have wanted to tap into for a while, which will be revealed soon.
You’ve created many high-profile pieces over the years, which are great for publicity. But a boy still needs to pay his bills. How do you balance the more commercial side of the business with the more creative side?
When I first approached creating collections in 1997, I wanted to fuse the traditional goldsmithing skills I had learned in the previous 10 years with the energy and aesthetic of modern jewellery I was creating for Alexander McQueen. The works I created for McQueen on the runway portrayed a new woman, a new energy in jewellery which reflected the persona and confidence of an individual. I wanted to translate that same design and energy into pieces that were more accessible to be worn away from the runway.
ANIMAL INSTINCT: Shaun Leane’s Tusk Earring for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 1996 show The Hunger.
The theme of protection and contrasts between fragility and strength are common themes in your work. Do you still feel the need for armour of some sort?
My work demonstrates femininity and delicacy, and the energy of armour is to portray strength and protection. As we humans have many facets, I like my work to portray all our emotions.
Tell us more about your South African connection and how the country has influenced your work.
I have always celebrated the light, space and energy of Africa. I’m fascinated by different cultures and societies around the world and take great pleasure in having been able to highlight and celebrate so many techniques and aesthetics in my work.
SOUTH AFRICAN INSPIRATION: Shaun Leane used the porcupine quills that he found on a trip to the country in 1996 to create these earrings for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2003 show. Image: Ann Ray.
Creativity is one thing. Running a business is another. Has the latter come easily to you?
When you are a young designer full of passion and drive, you want to create and create! Your business knowledge develops and is driven by the passion to execute your vision. So, for me, learning the business was a necessity and, fortunately, felt natural to me. There is creativity in all skills and running a business is one of them.
“There is creativity in all skills and running a business is one of them. “
What do you miss most about working and your friendship with Alexander McQueen?
Not only do I miss the adventure with my closest friend and all the fun that comes with that, but I also miss the passion, excitement and pure drive. I miss the camaraderie of two London boys who had a voice together to inspire and provoke. The platform McQueen had was one of creative freedom and a stage to have a strong free voice. It is an energy I still carry with me and feed into every piece of jewellery I make today.
CREATIVE ENERGY: Shaun Leane with Alexander McQueen. Image: Ann Ray.
In 2017, a Sotheby’s auction featured 46 of your bespoke works created for, among others, Isabella Blow, McQueen and Sarah Jessica Parker. Was it easy to “let go” of these pieces?
Yes, it was time for the pieces to be seen and shared, and to inspire and provoke new rising jewellery and fashion designers. My vision was for these pieces to be shown in museums all over the world to continue the energy Lee [Alexander McQueen] and I created, not to collect dust in an archive storage room.The pieces are celebrated in some of the world’s most prestigious museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and the V&A in London.
FASHION MEETS JEWELLERY: The Coiled Corset for Alexander McQueen’s The Overlook show sold for $807 000 at the auction. Image: Ann Ray.
You designed Princess Beatrice’s engagement and wedding rings. That must have come with all sorts of protocols working with the british royal family…
I have worked with royalty and celebrities for many years, so privacy and protocols come to me naturally. Bespoke projects should always be experienced under a blanket of privacy and mystery and then a beautiful unveil. Working with Beatrice and Edo [her husband] was like working with any other couple who are in love and excited for what’s to come. It was a complete joy to be able to be part of their memorable occasion.
As a perfume blogger, I was fascinated to read in the book that fragrance has also played a role in your life, from emptying your mother’s favourites as a child. Is that still the case?
What I love about jewellery is these fine precious sculptures hold memories and emotions throughout our lives – they touch one of our deepest senses. Fragrance also holds this beautiful connection for us. In a second, a scent can fill your mind with memories and associations of a place, person or time.
For more info on the book Shaun Leane (ACC Art Books), visit his company’s website.
There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.
While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.
“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”
This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.
Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?
ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT
This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.
An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP
Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.
Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.
MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP
Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.
Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!
AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP
Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.
I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.
Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT
I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.
Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.
All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.
I recently posted about some much-needed cheerful cheapies. I deliberately left Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT off that list. With its 40th anniversary this year, it warrants a post all of its own.
It was the launch fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that was originally founded in the 1960s and that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map . The store’s owner Fred Hayman launched Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”. Echoing the awning outside the store, the yellow-and-white box proclaimed the boldness of the scent in no uncertain terms.
From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, this Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. In a very 80s way. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants at the time due to its overpowering style. Which just adds to its allure. For me, anyway.
Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting.
“This Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious.”
This generous fragrance keeps giving till the end. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla and sandalwood notes.
Four decades and several changes in ownership later, my sources at Elizabeth Arden (which now has the licence for the brand) tell me there’s nothing special planned for the anniversary in the way of limited editions, etc.
That suits me fine, as long as Giorgio Beverly Hills is available at my local pharmacy on the budget shelves for the price of R550 or so (the equivalent of less than $40).
It’s intriguing to see buzz (as opposed to hype) develop around a perfume brand. And there’s plenty of that when it comes to Maison Crivelli. Founded in 2018 by Thibaud Crivelli, the Paris-based niche company focuses on fragrances inspired by his experiences.
When Thibaud Crivelli moved to China in 2006 and lived in various Asian countries, he was exposed to raw material plantations. This has given the entrepreneur / explorer unique insights into perfumery.
Maison Crivelli arrived at South Africa’s leading niche retailer Skins Cosmetics late last year, just when I was starting to see it more on Instagram. I knew I had to interview Thibaud Crivelli after trying four of his fragrances. Please see my reviews of these at the end of this post.
Before I emailed him the questions, I had an intro Zoom chat with Thibaud Crivelli. He came across as being approachable, articulate and passionate about his company and perfume in general.
All images supplied by Maison Crivelli, except for Santal Volcanique, Bois Datchai, Absinthe Boreale and Papyrus Moleculaire, which are my own.
Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery, but that’s not Maison Crivelli’s approach. How is your perspective different?
Perfume is a living experience and changes with time and different skin types. But more than this, our perception of perfume will also change depending on the environment we are in. All sensorial elements are connected and create a unique perfume experience.
“I chose not to reveal where I was to enable other people to connect with perfume and live their own personal journey.” – Thibaud Crivelli
Perfume is always personal, but sometimes it can be difficult to explain. So it was important for me to guide people into a deeper, more intimate and better understanding of perfume. The focus is not on myself, but on what other people will feel.
Each perfume is inspired by surprising experiences of discovery that I have lived. However, I chose not to reveal where I was to enable other people to connect with perfume and live their own personal journey. In addition, what matters to me is not where I am or where I go, but rather how I live each moment. The experience matters much more than the location.
When did you know you wanted to launch your own perfume house?
This has always been a childhood dream. I started to connect with perfume ingredients at a young age. I also grew up in a family of entrepreneurs as my dad is pharmacist and created his own cosmetic range.
And how did you go about it?
I started by myself and then gradually initiated collaborations with various partners (perfumers, suppliers, distributors, etc). For any entrepreneurial venture, the key aspect is to be fully aware of what we can do ourselves, and what we cannot do. For the latter, it’s vital to work with partners we trust and who understand our expectations and mission.
Have perfumes always appealed to you?
I have always had a strong connection with perfume ingredients, mostly thanks to a connection with nature across all seasons. My understanding of perfume became more accurate when I lived in Asia, as I got the opportunity to visit plantations and markets. The last step of my personal fragrance journey has been to discover more the aspect of creation.
Your wide travels have exposed you to the wonderful world of raw materials. Why are they so important to you?
Raw materials are a fundamental part of perfumery – they are the basis to work with. A deep understanding of raw materials is not essential to enjoy a fragrance. However, understanding raw materials is essential when it comes to creating and working with perfumers directly. Exploring areas where raw materials are cropped has helped me to discover them in a better and more sensorial way – not just in a technical way.
You describe your fragrances as “slow perfumes”. What do you mean by that phrase?
Taking time is an important aspect of perfume creation and discovery. We take the necessary time to remember the most surprising experiences of perfume discovery, find the best perfumers, create the scent, source the best raw materials (which are sometimes even hand-picked to preserve the best quality). Eventually we also invite everyone to take a bit more time than usual to discover perfume in a more qualitative way.
What’s been your greatest challenge since launching in 2018?
Increasing brand awareness, as there are lots of new launches every year.
You run the brand’s IG page and personally replied to my initial contact there. Is that a conscious choice? How large is your team?
We have a team of five people, but it is important for me to have direct contact with clients and the teams in the stores. I am happy to take the time to keep in touch with everyone.
“It is important for me to have direct contact with clients and the teams in the stores. I am happy to keep in touch with everyone.”
I love all the Maison Crivelli fragrances I’ve tried so far. Papyrus Moleculaire is particularly distinctive. Why did you choose Leslie Girard to create it?
Leslie understood our brief instantly and she is very skilled at creating woody notes with long-lastingness and sillage. On top she is a lovely person and the connection has always been incredible.
INCREDIBLE CONNECTION: Leslie Girard created Papyrus Moleculaire for Maison Crivelli. Thibaud Crivelli admires her deftness with woody notes.
How do your brief the perfumers you choose to work with?
I narrate the experiences I have lived and send a mood-board composed of photographs, videos, sounds, colours and textures. The objective is to translate all the sensorial elements of that moment and encapsulate them in a perfume.
IN THE MOOD: Thibaud Crivelli’s perfumers include, clockwise from top left, Bertrand Duchaufour, Stephanie Bakouche, Nathalie Feisthauer and Dorothée Piot.
As a self-proclaimed perfectionist, what would you like to improve on Maison Crivelli?
We always do our best to work on the originality and the balance of the perfumes. The most difficult aspect is to reach the moment when the perfumer and myself both know that we have finalised the creation.
You have launched a new fragrance in February 2021. What can you tell us about it? Any other developments we should be aware of?
The new creation is named Osmanthe Kōdoshān. It is inspired by a discovery of osmanthus flowers on the slopes of a mystical mountain shrouded in mist. We will also soon launch a new collection of perfume extracts in collaboration with Quentin Bisch.
MAISON CRIVELLI REVIEWS
One would expect a fragrance inspired by “the experience of the scent of scorched sandalwood on the slopes of an erupting volcano” to be unusual and intriguing. And that’s exactly what the brand’s 2018 debut and current best-seller created by Richard Ibanez delivers in abundance. Warm spiciness (ginger and cardamom) mingles with a rich, uncompromising and almost burnt take on sandalwood that mellows with coffee absolute and musks as it develops sensually on the skin.
Maison Crivelli Papyrus Moleculaire EDP
Papyrus is a surprisingly common note in perfumery, but there’s nothing common about its treatment in this 2020 release. Leslie Girard successfully translates inspiration – “discovering papyrus root powder with a group of tattooed women smoking cigarillos” – into vibrant reality. Fresh spiciness (coriander and elemi) gives way to cuddly tobacco while the headline note is powdered and leathered to perfection.
Maison Crivelli Absinthe Boreale EDP
Absinthe’s reputation precedes it, but there’s no danger of hallucinating under the influence of this friendly 2019 release created by Nathalie Feisthauer. There’s no missing the artemisia (wormwood), the herb used to give flavour and aroma to the notorious spirit, but it’s softened with a clean mix of lavender, mint, lemon, balsam fir and musk. A beautifully cool composition that deftly balances its herbal and aromatic aspects.
Maison Crivelli Bois Datchai EDP
I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release created by Dorothée Piot. The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness. The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli. Another cuppa please!
For more info on Maison Crivelli, visit the brand’s website.
Finding a good, albeit expensive, perfume is a cinch. There’s so much choice and ultimately, the only limitation is the health of your bank account. Finding good cheap fragrances is an altogether different beast.
So in these economically tough times, it’s time to sniff out some cheerful cheap fragrances. Interestingly, the industry hates to call them “cheapies”. I was once corrected by the PR for a well-known American beauty company that they call them “value-for-money” products.
Whatever you call them, here are some standouts. What are your favourite cheap fragrances?
Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP (Carlos Benaim)
Before your eyes roll, Elizabeth Taylor is one of the pioneers of the celeb fragrance category and her scents are good in a big and bold way.
Inspired by the legendary British actor’s eye colour, this EDP was released in 2010, a year before she moved on to the big mansion in the sky. A bouquet of florals follows the opening of juicy peach. I’m talking opulent notes of rose, jasmine and peony, with powderiness galore. Cedar stands out in the drydown.
Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT
The Elizabeth Arden Green Tea line has been around since 1999. Worthwhile variations on the theme include Pomegranate, Mimosa and Fig.
Green Tea Pear Blossom is the most recent addition and it’s as uplifting and pretty as it sounds. Pear and pear tree blossom are evident from the start and create a breezy fruity-floral vibe that’s balanced by green tea and mate. It settles on a base of musks.
Revlon Charlie Gold EDP
People of a certain age might remember Revlon Charlie from the 1970s and the accompanying advertising of confident and liberated women.
The original has spawned 20+ flankers and Charlie Gold EDP, released in 1995, is one of the best (please overlook the crap cap). There’s a slight aldehydic feel at first and then it’s fruit (apricot, peach, plum) and spice (cinnamon, cloves) all the way to the musky drydown. Lots of fun!
Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT
With almost 600 releases to its name, the Spanish fast fashion retailer has a bit of a reputation as a fast fragrance retailer, too. While many of them feel churned out, this 2016 launch is probably one of their most popular and highly rated.
A big hit of tropical-ish honey and coconut features here, but there’s enough warm and cuddly tobacco to warrant it being called a tobacco scent. The sandalwood in the drydown is creamy deluxe. It all adds up to create a sweet treat with gourmand tendencies.
Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP
The Yardley English Blazer range reflects the British origins of the brand (it’s now owned by Indian company Wipro) and comprises gentlemanly versions such as Green, Black and Red.
There are those who think this EDP smells like Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb and they are right, up to a point, due to their shared notes of grapefruit, cinnamon and vetiver. It lacks the complexity and depth of that best-seller, but still delivers cheap thrills at a fraction of the price.
Launching a perfume company at any time takes balls. Launching a perfume company in 2020, of all years, takes balls of steel. And dollops of optimism and a strongly defined vision. All of which Anselm Skogstad of Der Duft seems to have in abundance.
The visual artist / photojournalist-turned-perfumer / director kindly sent me a bottle of Der Duft Bubble, one of the fragrances from the Germany-based company’s launch collection. If this EDP created by Alexandre Illan (Rammstein Kokain and Thameen Noorolain Taif) is anything to go by, the company is set to find its own space.
BUBBLE BOY: Alexandre Illan, creator of Der Duft Bubble. All images, except Der Deft Bubble, supplied.
Luxurious and uplifting, the bubbly stuff happens to be my favourite tipple. And it’s always intriguing to see how it’s translated olfactively. Unfortunately, it’s often given the girlie fizz treatment. No such issues with Bubble.
The EDP opens with a distinctive and slightly fruity take on Champagne. It already feels like a glass of the best. It’s infused with a liberal dose of cassis, its green sharpness balanced by a note of fruity rose. There’s also a hint of slightly spicy chamomile in the mix.
A clean combo of white musk and ambrette (the naturally derived musk) meets sandalwood in the drydown. The pear-ish characteristics of the ambrette and the creaminess of the sandalwood perfectly complement the intro and give the composition complex continuity.
I asked Anselm Skogstad about the launch of his company, his approach and working with perfumers.
“I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.”
Why did you decide to launch your own fragrance company?
I envisioned a fragrance company where the unique quality of perfumes, the style and aesthetic transcend time. The collection invites people to feel inspired by the scents and names of each perfume. I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.
I was aware of my fascination in collaborating with perfumers. It became clear that my brand would have to include both my own creations and perfumes created by selected perfumers I admire.
I strive for Der Duft to become a representation of a carefully selected collection of perfumes of outstanding quality. The concept is very clean and minimalist, which is also reflected visually in the product design.
How long was the launch in the making? And how did the Covid situation affect IT?
I was brainstorming the idea since 2018, simply calling the brand Der Duft (German for “The Scent”). Covid certainly affected the launch, as it created uncertainty and fear worldwide. Retail had to close their doors and high-end perfumes were less of a priority to people. Understandably so!
What’s your background and has perfume always played a big part in your life?
My love for perfumes started when I was a child and enjoyed smelling fragrances while admiring the fancy packaging and advertising. For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. Instead, I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist (anselmskogstad.com).
“For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist.”
FULL OF SURPRISES: Anselm Skogstad with Miguel Matos, creator of Der Duft Cinematic.
The inspiration and motivation to change my career focus also needs to be credited to a dear friend of mine, a perfume expert based in Hong Kong. I am forever thankful to have found my love for perfumes again, this immensely beautiful and powerful art form.
You’re also a perfumer and created Der Duft Monopteros and Der Duft Grasse. Where did you study perfumery?
I studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery. This was a humbling experience and a substantial help in working as the director of Der Duft.
“Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction. In fact, I am thrilled if they surprise me.”
Using Der Duft Bubble as an example, tell us how you approach the creation of a fragrance with your perfumers?
Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction or guidance. In fact, I am thrilled if the perfumer surprises me. The goal is also to understand and respect the perfumers’ olfactive language and talent. Although I make the final choice which of the perfumer’s proposed creation is selected for Der Duft, the actual working process itself remains their own.
Finding a suitable name for each perfume is a distinctly exciting part of the creation process. This goes hand in hand while creating, perfecting and discovering the best new creation together with a perfumer.
Do you have any new releases planned for 2021?
Yes, I am excited about the new creation by Prin Lomros, called Act. Visit derduft.com for additional information and to subscribe to our newsletter.
While Africa isn’t a major market for perfume consumption, it is one for the sourcing of raw materials such as vanilla (Madagascar), African orange blossom (Tunisia) and Atlas cedar (Morocco). But my first blog post of 2021 isn’t about that topic. It’s about Africa-inspired fragrances.
“The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers.”
The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers. And for good reason. In the scheme of things (and while not indulging in any colonial stereotypes), Africa is still relatively undiscovered and exotic when compared to other continents.
With Covid-19 continuing to rage in South Africa and any travel remaining verboten, my Africa inspired fragrances are a vital outlet for my own imaginings and yearnings.
There are some glaring omissions from this Africa-inspired fragrances round-up: Au Coeur du Désert, 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle and 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain, all by Tauer, and which I’m embarrassed to admit I haven’t tried yet.
Do you have any favourite Africa-inspired fragrances?
ELLA K CRI DU KALAHARI EDP* (SONIA CONSTANT)
I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the Kalahari Desert and its beautifully named omuramba (the Herero word for the ancient riverbeds situated in the border area of Botswana and Namibia). So I’m happy to travel there vicariously courtesy of Ella K Cri du Kalahari. This 2019 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house founded by top perfumer Sonia Constant is inspired by evenings spent in this desert.
The EDP opens with the slight spice of green pepper and then gives way to a dense treatment of sandalwood and cedar to evoke the spectacular baobab trees in the area. Patchouli adds to the sense of earthy and woody moistness in the otherwise dry landscape.
Two other Africa-inspired fragrances from the brand are also worth sniffing out: Ella K Epupa Mon Amour EDP and Reflet Sur L’Okavango EDP.
RALPH LAUREN SAFARI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
Ralph Lauren Safari is officially for women, but is, in fact, perfectly unisex. It also happens to be a 90s classic created by the legendary Dominique Ropion (Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Mugler Alien, YSL L’Homme).
This EDP opens with an authentic marigold note and a smattering of orange in the background. The heart is all about florals and features a rich display of narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley notes. It then takes a woody and earthy turn with notes of sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli all working together in unison. The beauty of this fragrance is how is flows from start to finish to create something complex and unique.
BERDOUES MAASAÏ MARA (PHILIPPE ROMANO)
Berdoues is a fourth-generation, family-owned perfume business. Their Collection Grands Crus focuses on feel-good blends that recall destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.
This mellow and warm 2017 release takes its cue from Kenya’s famous national reserve. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape in the brand’s straightforward style.
Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.
Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart of this EDT, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence from the Paris-based niche fragrance pioneer!
BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP* (JEROME EPINETTE)
Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this Jerome Epinette creation.
The tone is set from the opening with its citrus notes of lemon and neroli, and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of the vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the drydown.
MEMO MOROCCAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)
Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo taps into it better than most, with perfumes influenced by their founders’ travel memories. The brand’s African Leather is a modern classic, but this 2018 release from the Cuirs Nomades Collection is well worth discovering, too.
Bitter green galbanum is one of the first notes to stand out. It’s deftly balanced by floral notes of orange blossom and ylang-ylang, while ginger brings market spice. The combo of dry vetiver, powdery iris and a deep leather accord make the drydown particularly memorable.
4711 ACQUA COLONIA INTENSE SUNNY SEASIDE OF ZANZIBAR (DAPHNE BUGEY)
Many of us know 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. What’s less well known perhaps is the brand’s range of intense, longer-lasting colognes that includes variations such as Floral Fields of Ireland, Wakening Woods of Scandinavia and Pure Breeze of Himalaya. Launched in 2019, Sunny Seaside of Zanzibar lives up to its island holiday inspiration with aplomb.
The opening features an appealing combo of fresh watermelon and softly spicy aniseed notes. The tropical vibe builds up with a melange of coconut, frangipani, musk and vanilla notes, eventually settling on a woody base of vetiver and cedar. It’s sunny escapist stuff at its best.
*These Africa-inspired fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.
For Covid-19 second-wave reasons, I shan’t be seeing the sea this time of year, as I’d hoped to do. But that won’t stop me from bringing the sea home when I have these three aquatic fragrances at my disposal.
Now, I have a conflicted relationship with the ocean. I find being near it calming and relaxing, especially the whooshing sound and salty breeze-laden smell. But I don’t necessarily enjoy being in it. Silly, I know…
BVLGARI AQUA POUR HOMME EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER-BELLETRUD)
Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, especially on the designer side, but many haven’t dated well. This popular Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (currently Louis Vuitton’s in-house perfumer) creation from 2005 is not one of those has-beens.
“Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, but many haven’t dated well.”
It opens in fresh citrus mode with notes of sweet mandarin orange and green petitgrain. It’s an uplifting combo. The seaweed note is subtly salty, its aromatic profile accentuated by lavender. Woody notes, specifically Virginia cedar and patchouli, continue the softness in the drydown. The amber is kept to a thankful minimum.
It’s a sophisticated, slightly restrained take on the theme. Great bottle too – the blue and green spherical shape captures its inspiration oh so cleverly.
HEELEY SEL MARIN EDP* (JAMES HEELEY)
Wow! This 2008 release is a masterstroke. But that should come as no surprise. It’s a creation from the Yorkshire-born / Paris-based perfumer who’s responsible for beauties such as Heeley Cardinal (2006) and Heeley L’Amandière (2011). His skills are displayed to maximum effect in Sel Marin (French for “sea salt”).
The intro is sharp, with citrus notes of bergamot and lemon conjuring a fresh sea breeze. It doesn’t take long for the main attraction to come into focus: a wondrous splash of moss, algae and, in particular, sea salt notes. Many aquatic fragrances are heavy-handed on the sea salt. This one gets it exactly right. The drydown is all about driftwoods, with fresh cedar and vetiver supported by clean musk and a hint of leathery birch.
Although inspired by sunny days at the beach, I get a far moodier and tempestuous feel. Either way, it’s as realistic as it gets.
MEMO OCEAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)
Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo does some of the best leather fragrances in the biz for their Cuir Nomades Collection. From Irish to African, there’s always an interesting interpretation.
As the beautifully designed bottle will tell you, the latest 2020 release, Memo Ocean Leather, takes its inspiration from the sperm whale. But just to clarify matters, it’s not an ambergris fragrance.
There’s a burst of mandarin orange at first. It’s contrasted with the fresh aromatics of basil and the powder of violet. The aromatics continue in the form of clary sage absolute, but it’s the elemi that really stands out, with its terpenic qualities. The drydown features a leather accord that’s given earthy depth with notes of nutmeg and vetiver.
Of the three aquatic fragrances featured here, it’s the least literal interpretation, but intriguing nevertheless.
We all knew Francis Kurkdjian was a highly accomplished perfumer before he launched his own eponymously named niche fragrance house in 2009. And then from 2012, he upped his credentials even more, as the king of oud, with a succession of top-quality releases. These include Oud EDP (2012), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015) and Oud Silk Mood EDP (2018). I’ve recently fallen under the spell of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum.
I got the opportunity to interview the Paris-based perfumer over a year ago. I asked him about working with oud and he said: “It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”
“It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”
While I wouldn’t describe Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum as particularly animalic, boy is it special!
Infused with slightly peppery and resinous warmth, elemi from the Philippines opens this 2018 release. There’s then the waft of fine and luxurious musk. Interesting to note that Kurkdjian uses Ambrettolide, the Givaudan-produced vegetal musk renowned for its smoothness and floral undertones. It mingles with a soft take on cedar and creamy, but (thankfully) sugar-free vanilla.
Oud is one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, and the Laotian variety is especially prized for its depth and variations. Every time I smell it in this extrait de parfum, I get something different. From leathery and woody to fruity to powdery. It’s deftly complemented by Indonesian patchouli, with its earthy and woody nuances.
From the listed ingredients on the brand’s website, there’s no doubt the best have been used to produce one of the most sophisticated oud perfumes around. It’s impeccably smooth, yet full of sensual depth and character.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfumis available at Skins Cosmetics.
