Category: INDUSTRY INTERVIEWS

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Marie Salamagne Interview: Cherishing The Atelier des Ors Creative Adventure

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors

Marie Salamagne might not have “been raised in the world of perfumery”, but this hasn’t stopped the 42-year-old perfumer from attracting attention with her various creations. These range from Alaïa Nude EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoires d’Orangers EDT and Aura Mugler EDT to Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP, Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica Cologne Intense and Maison Margiela By the Fireplace EDT, among others.

Since 2015, Marie Salamagne has been the de facto in-house perfumer for Parisian niche fragrance brand Atelier des Ors. She has created 11 unisex EDPs for the company.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Aube Rubis

ATELIER DES ORS AUBE RUBIS EDP: With notes of bergamot, grapefruit, black currant, sage, violet, iris, patchouli, vetiver and praline.

In this Fragroom interview, Marie Salamagne talks about her background, love of perfumery and her work for Atelier des Ors.

Where were you born?

I was born in Paris, France.

Where did you study perfumery?

I studied perfumery at ISIPCA. It is a renowned school of perfumery in Versailles near Paris.

Where are you based now?

I work in Paris for Firmenich.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors

Did you always want to be a perfumer? 

Unlike many of my colleagues, I have not been raised in the world of perfumery. Coming from a family of doctors, after my baccalaureate I started studying medicine. At the time I wanted to be a child psychiatrist, but I quickly realised that it was not for me. I was studying chemistry when I discovered ISIPCA and the work of a perfumer. From that point it was an obvious choice for me.

“I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.”

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Bois Sikar

ATELIER DES ORS BOIS SIKAR EDP: With notes of nutmeg, guaiac wood, styrax, cedar wood, cedar needles, tobacco leaf and vetiver.

What was the attraction of perfumery for you?

I’ve always been sensitive to “smell”, but I knew very little about the craft when I started. I quickly realised that the world of perfumery suited me to a tee. More than a special effort, it takes passion and very hard work to become a perfumer. I followed my intuition and the path of fragrances. Since then scents have always intrigued me. I felt immediately at ease in the world of perfumery. Everything made sense to me.

“I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection.”

How did your involvement with Atelier des Ors come about?

I received the first brief when the brand was under creation in 2012 from our Dubai team. Jean-Philippe Clermont [the founder of Atelier des Ors] was living in the Middle East at that time. His concept of creating this amazing collection, positioned as he said as “haute parfumerie”, was extremely appealing. I fell under the spell of Jean-Philippe’s brief. We had this deep connection, sharing the same passion and vision. That’s how it all started.

Marie Salamagne - Jean-Philippe Clermont, Atelier des Ors

PASSIONATE VISION: Jean-Philippe Clermont is the founder of Atelier des Ors.

He gave me the freedom of using the most beautiful ingredients to create his first collection made of five fragrances. These included: Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert and Aube Rubis. We are still working on each of his fragrances together, in co-creation.

Did you create all of the Atelier des Ors fragrances?

Yes, I created the 11 fragrances of the collection.

What do you like about the brand?

The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie. I select materials that bring to life the spiritual and symbolic dimensions of the creative storytelling. As I work to sublimate them in my creations for Atelier des Ors, my craft helps to reconnect fragrance-lovers to the dreams and mysterious universe of luxury fragrances.

“The collection is anchored in precious know-how and reinterprets the heritage of French haute parfumerie.”

Marie Salamagne - Larmes du Desert

ATELIER DES ORS LARMES DU DESERT EDP: With notes of incense, cypress, patchouli, guaiac wood, cedar, citruses, amber, benzoin and woodsy notes.

What was the general brief for creating the fragrances? 

The first idea was to give back to fragrance a sense of mystery and dreams. And also draw inspiration from the crafts to offer olfactory bouquets with distinctive and captivating accords. The project engages with gold, which represents the noble and eternal side of the material and the brand itself.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Cuir Sacré

ATELIER DES ORS CUIR SACRE: With notes of juniper berries, cardamom, cypress, incense, saffron, cedar needles, leather, vetiver and cypriol oil.

How much creative freedom do you have when creating the fragrances?

Passionate and imaginative, Jean Philippe shares his creative ideas with me when we start working on a new fragrance. They are nourished by his incredibly rich experience. His professional life includes various domains of excellence where “savoire-faire” is key. Then I feel free to translate his vision into fragrant poetry. We only keep real “coups de coeur”, as we both like to only pursue rare and unique experiences. I cherish the precious moments of the creative adventure. I enjoy true mutual respect, sharing, listening and a kindred open-minded spirit.

Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont - Atelier des Ors

KINDRED SPIRITS: Marie Salamagne and Jean-Philippe Clermont work very closely together on the various fragrances.

One of my favourite fragrances from the collection is the very sensual Rose Omeyyade. How did you create that EDP?

Rose Omeyyade explores the captivating smell of damask rose, infused with velvet raspberry tones and intense woods, such as the mystical agarwood and gaiac wood.

Tell us more about the new White Collection.

The White Collection was released in 2018. It comprises three fragrances: Nuda Veritas, Crepuscule des Ames and Choeur des Anges. This collection is very special and creative.

White signifies purity, radiance, new beginnings. This new collection pays homage to the white space. It is very relative to art as directly inspired by the work of the artist Gustav Klimt, The Search of Happiness. It’s a monumental artwork completed for the 14th Vienna Secessionist Exhibition to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Beethoven’s death. This artwork is organised in three chapters. Each one was the main inspiration of our three compositions.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Gustav Klimt

INSPIRATION: The Atelier des Ors White Collection is inspired by Gustav Klimt’s The Search of Happiness.

Nuda Veritas has been made for Chapter 1. It is a floral creation, representing the lightness and the beginning of a new spiritual quest for the search of happiness. The composition opens with floral notes, delicate jasmine and osmanthus, combined with ambroxan and subtle woods.

Crepuscule des Ames has been made for Chapter 2. It’s a woody aromatic fragrance, evoking the duality within all of us. The duality is expressed by the usage of very contrasted ingredients. These include: bitter and luminous citruses, energising aromatic herbs, animalic notes and an addictive patchouli.

Marie Salamagne - Atelier des Ors Crépuscule Des Ames

CONTINUITY: Marie Salamagne has also created the fragrances for the Atelier des Ors White Collection.

Choeur des Anges has been made for Chapter 3. It’s a fruity-floral fragrance, a celebration of joy, colours and happiness. It is made of blood orange, carrot seeds, with a floral heart and some radiant fruits. I have used osmanthus and a touch of honey.

Are you working on more Atelier des Ors fragrances?

Of course! We have a lot of new ideas and developments in progress. Jean-Philippe is always sharing new inspirations. This year will be very busy for Atelier des Ors.

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Linda Song Cape Town: Launching Givaudan’s Road Stories

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Portrait

I was recently in the Givaudan Johannesburg office when I was introduced to the fragrance giant’s Road Stories project. What started out as a tourist trip to Cape Town for perfumer Linda Song turned into the launch of the company’s “scent souvenirs” initiative. After smelling the evocative fragrance accords that Linda Song created after her journey to the South African city, I knew I had to interview her.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Image

IMAGE OF CAPE TOWN: BRAND SOUTH AFRICA

Linda Song is an up-and-coming perfumer. She has already started making her mark in the industry with her recent co-creation for Tom Ford (Fougère Platine EDP). She also created RPL Maison XVIII Tubéreuse EDP, which was launched in 2017.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Broadtoothed Sagebush

UNIQUE FLORA: Linda Song examines a broadtoothed sagebush.

What is Givaudan’s Road Stories project all about?

Road Stories came about from our NY team of perfumers sharing “scent souvenirs” from our travels in an informal setting and turning it into a creative collection platform. My visit to Cape Town is the debut of the series, which originated when I was planning a trip to Cape Town purely with the intentions of being a tourist to discover the city with friends. On learning more about the region, I found that the Cape Floral Kingdom is a wealth of diversity and endemic species. I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.

“I couldn’t pass up on the chance to explore and smell the thousands of plants that are only found in this small region of South Africa.”

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Bloodbell Heath

BLOODBELL HEATH

How did you get involved?

I pitched the idea to Emily Bond, the Head of Fine Fragrances North America. She was immediately on board and it gave her the idea to start the collection of Road Stories. I did my background research on the location before leaving on what plants I could expect to find in late summer/ early autumn. I also reached out to Dr Roman Kaiser on what olfactively interesting plants I should look out for. A distinguished, retired colleague, he’s also the originator of our Scent Trek technology, a noted botanist and an intrepid world explorer.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Bottles

When did you arrive in Cape Town?

April 2017.

How long did you spend in the city?

Nine days.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Golden Pagoda

GOLDEN PAGODA

What were you expecting to discover before you arrived?

Through my research I was already expecting a dynamic city. It would have  a lot to offer in terms of history, culture, art and design, with a backdrop of nature between the mountains and sea.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Immortelle Everlasting

IMMORTELLE EVERLASTING

What did you actually discover?

That all of the above was massively amplified in real life! Stunning vistas, extremes of dry and wet, and an extremely diverse, laid-back and cool cosmopolitan city.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Erica taxifolia

ERICA TAXIFOLIA

Who helped you make these discoveries?

I was lucky enough to have some friends living in Cape Town. They are themselves well-travelled nomads and showed us their favourite parts of the region. I used the information Roman provided, in addition to the amazing amount of information that’s available at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. It’s an impressive garden whose ethos is in preserving the region’s unique flora.

Linda Song Road Stories - Collection

COLLECTOR’S ITEMS: The Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town collection includes 12 accords.

Do many South Africans know about these plants?

This is my question to you as a South African! [I don’t at all.]

“They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette.”

The fragrances that resulted from this visit really impressed me with their unique quality. They are so enticing! tell us more about this collection.

It was a perfumer’s dream – like being a kid in a candy store. There truly are so many beautiful plants – both visually and olfactively – to the point of sensory overload! It took a lot of time to edit to the 12 accords that are in the collection. They were chosen specifically with the idea of adding to the perfumer’s palette. It’s similar to adding new colours to a painter’s palette. I’m constantly astounded by nature’s version of perfumery and that was the true inspiration. With interesting combinations of aromatic with balsamic notes, surprising notes of gourmand, floral bouquets…these scents were chosen for being uniquely beautiful.

Linda Song Road Stories - Selection Of Bottles

Will the fragrances be available commercially?

These are accords recreating what I found in nature, so they won’t be commercially available alone. But we are sharing the accords with the hope to transport both the stories and scents as staring points for a finished fragrance.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Mona lavender

MONA LAVENDER

What else did you discover while you were in Cape Town?

This is one of my favourite cities in the world! I have an equal love for nature and urban environments and this city manages to beautifully marry both. You can go from surfing or hiking in the morning to being at a gallery or museum within minutes. There’s a beautiful aesthetic to the city that falls within a large range of being local, modern, quirky, hipster and classic. There truly is something for everyone and the discovery seems endless.

Linda Song Road Stories Cape Town - Aloe Arborescens

ALOE ARBORESCENS

What perfume project are you working on now?

I’m working on developing finished fragrances with many of these accords, so stay tuned!

*All images, except of Cape Town, provided by Givaudan. 

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Caroline Sabas Interview: “I Work On Anything. I’m Up For Any Challenge!”

I first started chatting to perfumer Caroline Sabas a couple of months ago on Instagram when I inadvertently didn’t credit her contribution to the creation of Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP. Since then I’ve been wanting to interview the 44-year-old who has created a very diverse selection of fragrances over the years. These range from Etat Libre d’Orange You Or Someone Like You EDP, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT and Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP to Rihanna Reb’l Fleur EDP and Commodity Vetiver EDP.

Caroline Sabas - Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP

Caroline Sabas grew up in the heartland of French perfumery, Grasse. Her perfumer father had a big influence on her decision to pursue the career she says she was “born into”.

In this interview, I asked Caroline Sabas questions about her work, her ultimate ambition and her favourite ingredient to work with, among others.

Where were you born?

I was born in Cannes, France, and grew up in Grasse.

Where did you study perfumery?

I studied at ISIPCA in Versailles and my apprenticeship while in school was at Chanel.

Where are you based now?

I moved to NYC a year after I finished ISIPCA, which is 21 years ago. I’ve been working at Givaudan New York for 15 years now. I love New York. It has such a great vibe and so much energy.

Caroline Sabas - Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT

SUMMER EFFECT: Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers Summer Air EDT is one of the fragrances created by Caroline Sabas.

When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

As I lived in Grasse and my father was a perfumer, I can say that I was born into it. Growing up surrounded by all those amazing naturals, such as mimosa, jasmine, honeysuckle, rose, moss, just to name a few, made me aware at a very young age that my nose was a great asset. I’ve always been sensitive to smells around me and they always provoked in me a lot of emotions. Then when I was 16, I stepped into the lab of my father’s company. Working with all those gorgeous materials was like a dream. I felt like a chef or a painter. From that moment on I knew this was exactly what I wanted to do.

“Working with all those gorgeous materials was like a dream. I felt like a chef or a painter.”

What do you remember most about studying perfumery?

I loved smelling and having to memorise olfactively both natural and synthetic ingredients. Learning about the classics and how they had been created. It’s such a fascinating world and I couldn’t wait to be part of it.

Caroline Sabas - Britney Spears VIP Private Show EDP

FRAGRANCES FOR EVERYONE: “I do not want to be labelled as a certain type of perfumer. Therefore, I work on everything…. mass, prestige, celebrities, designers, niche, women’s, men’s,” says Caroline Sabas.

What’s your ultimate ambition as a perfumer?

I would like to be able to create fragrances for absolutely everyone. I do not want to be labelled as a certain type of perfumer. Therefore, I work on everything…. mass, prestige, celebrities, designers, niche, women’s, men’s, etc… I’m up for any challenge! And ultimately I am hoping that one of these creations will end up being a best-seller. Mostly because it makes me so happy and moves me when I smell one of my creations on someone else. It is the best feeling. I realise that I touched someone’s heart.

Caroline Sabas - Elizabeth Arden White Tea

One of my favourite fragrances you’ve created is Etat Libre d’Orange You or someone like you edp. How did you create this fragrance?

This was a fantastic project. A great collaboration between Chandler Burr and myself. In 2009, Chandler Burr wrote the book You Or Someone Like You. Later on, Etat Libre d’Orange approached Chandler about making a fragrance having the same title. Chandler asked me if I could be the perfumer behind it. I was more than happy to accept, as I had never approached a project with such a different concept.

Caroline Sabas - Etat Libre d'Orange You Or Someone Like You EDP

Chandler and I started to work together and tried to create what would be the perfect fragrance for the novel’s narrator, Anne Rosenbaum. She lives in LA, is reserved and is an avid reader. She is a gardener as well. Chandler and I kept talking about what kind of notes would be perfect for Anne. But mainly, the fragrance that was created for her is not a perfume. It is a scent. We do not talk about ingredients or notes as we describe it. It is an experience. It is what you want it to be. That’s how Chandler described it to me before I started the creative process.

“We do not talk about ingredients or notes as we describe it. It is an experience. It is what you want it to be.”

You’ve created several celebrity fragrances. Is it different creating a celeb fragrance, as opposed to a designer or a niche scent?

I find the process a little bit different, yes. When I create a fragrance for a celebrity, I have to think about all their followers, their fans. It seems like the crowd to please is very big, so I need to make sure that it has a broad appeal from top to bottom. Whereas for a designer, or a niche brand, I can really think out of the box and pour my creativity into it, without thinking too much about who I am going to please. Here, I am inspired greatly by the designer’s vision that they seek to capture through scent.

Caroline Sabas - Sean John Unforgivable EDT

Do you have a favourite ingredient?

It is hard to come down to one ingredient when we have so many beautiful materials around us. But I will say my favourite is Vetiver.  Five years ago, I travelled to Haiti to experience the vetiver harvest. Haiti is where the very best vetiver in the world is grown.

Caroline Sabas - Vetiver

Givaudan has a very important platform of ethical sourcing, which we call Sourcing for Shared Value. We are dedicated to strengthening the vetiver supply chain, including supporting a co-operative in Les Cayes which helps the farmers and villagers to have a better life. It ensures that the vetiver producers can benefit from a guaranteed minimum price and regular technical support from both Givaudan’s and our partner teams. Our initiative aims to ensure that appropriate practices for vetiver harvesting and distilling are in place.

Caroline Sabas - Vetiver

EARTHY: Caroline Sabas loves vetiver for its many qualities.

This process produces the highest quality oil. I experienced the whole process of distillation, from the fields where the farmers uproot the plant, clean it, and then send it to the distillation factory. At the factory, the air smelled wonderful. I felt like I was wearing a blanket of warm vetiver. It is such a faceted material, woody, sensual, unctuous, golden, elegant, earthy, warm. Very addictive to me. Vetiver had been used so much in men’s fragrances. But with this quality, we can create a gorgeous woman’s fragrance as well, using a classic and beautiful ingredient that supports people and the environment.

“It is such a faceted material, woody, sensual, unctuous, golden, elegant, earthy, warm.”

Do you a travel a lot for your work?

I do travel for work and I enjoy spending time in our office in Paris and our office in São Paulo. This allows me to stay current with marketplace and lifestyle trends and also participate in various projects in places other than New York and spend time with my colleagues in other countries.

Caroline Sabas - Vince Camuto Divina EDP

DIVINE: Caroline Sabas also created Vince Camuto Divina EDP. It was released in 2018.

Which fragrance do you wish you’d created?

There are a lot of fragrances that I wish I had created. Starting with Chanel No 19, which I find exquisite. Also, one that set such a huge trend and influenced the fragrance category is Angel, which is a Givaudan creation. I am inspired by these classic trend-setters that were so different, so sensual, so disruptive for their time.

Caroline Sabas - Chanel No 19

Do you have a mentor?

My mentor is David Apel [her husband and vice-president senior perfumer at Symrise]. I love what he taught me and always value the incredible education on perfumery he shared with me: from ingredient expertise to his creative approach.  He is one of the best perfumers in the industry today.

Caroline Sabas - David Apel

 

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Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP: The Perfumer’s Perspective (Sonia Constant)

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

Givaudan’s Sonia Constant has created stand-out fragrances for Narciso Rodriguez since 2015. Her most recent fragrance for the brand, Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP, is an uber-seductive take on the original Narciso. It features big notes of Bulgarian rose, iris, musk and tuberose. The theme of seduction is carried through to the base, where vanilla and tonka bean add to the sensual warmth.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

SMELLS GOOD: Sonia Constant at work. Images of Sonia and Nadege: Supplied.

In this interview, Sonia Constant answers questions on how she and fellow nose Nadège le Garlantezec created Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP.

With your previous history with Narciso Rodriguez (Fleur Musc, Santal Musc, Bleu Noir), were you the automatic choice to create Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP? Or did you have to pitch for it?

Absolutely not. Even if I sign many Narciso Rodriguezes, we are always in competition to create the next perfume! So I had to pitch for it.

What was the brief for this fragrance? 

The brief was the colour red – a blazing red. We had to reinterpret this colour. Also words like “temptation”, “provocation”, “seduction”, “magnetism” and “passion” were part of the brief. The fragrance had to become a more seductive variant of the original Narciso.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Nadege le Garlantezec

CO-CREATOR: Nadege le Garlantezec created the fragrance with Sonia Constant.

“We wanted to create a vibrant, elegant, carnal and sensual femininity.”

What did you have in mind when you first started creating it? And how did you achieve that?

We wanted to create a vibrant, elegant, carnal and sensual femininity. We were thinking of a Baccarat rose, with some pink peppercorn on top. The ardent sensuality was to be revealed with an accord of sandalwood, cedar wood, tolu balm and myrrh. We also had in mind some tones of red sequoia and, of course, musks and tonka beans.

Musk is a staple of Narciso Rodriguez fragrances. How did you treat it for this EDP? 

Yes, musk is at the heart of every Narciso Rodriguez fragrance, but we had to adapt it with the rest of the formula.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

Where did you find inspiration for this fragrance? 

Nadège and I were really thinking about creating a fragrance able to initiate passion, something warm, but fluffy. Sensual, but in the Narciso Rodriguez style.

Were there any challenges you had to overcome while creating this fragrance? 

Yes, actually the red colour was not so easy to translate, because Mr Rodriguez doesn’t like fruit or gourmand fragrances. So at the beginning we started with some cherry facet, but had to finally remove it. Also, Narciso Rodriguez fragrances don’t follow trends, so it was always more difficult to be a trendsetter.

“The red colour was not so easy to translate, because Mr Rodriguez doesn’t like fruit or gourmand fragrances.”

How long did it take you to create this fragrance?

We worked almost a year on it.

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

There are lots of Narciso Rouge reviews online. Do you ever read reviews of your creations? 

Unfortunately, I don’t have time to read all the reviews on all my creations, but the few I read seem good, I think.

Are you working on any other Narciso Rodriguez fragrances? 

I really love the brand and embrace it, so yes I am always working on a new Narciso Rodriguez fragrance. I can only say that it is much more than one project!

Narciso Rodriguez Rouge EDP - Sonia Constant

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Interview With Quentin Bisch: “Perfumery Is An Absolute Part Of Myself”

Quentin Bisch

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRED ZARA.

2018 could very well be the year of Quentin Bisch. The 35-year-old perfumer has signed a number of high-profile fragrances this year. These include: Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (pictured below), Boucheron Quatre en Rose EDP, Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XV: Salvia Blu EDP, Chloé Nomade EDP, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP, Parfums de Marly Delina EDP, Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP and Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP.

Quentin Bisch - Azzaro Wanted By Night EDP

Even before this prolific year, Quentin Bisch was producing stand-out fragrances such as Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013).

The first Quentin Bisch fragrance I smelled was Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum in 2016. At the time I didn’t know he had created this supremely sexy scent with its creamy take on notes of cardamom, lavender, leather and cinnamon.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

Not bad for someone whose dream to become a perfumer was ridiculed by a teacher because he wasn’t any good at high-school chemistry. Now, Quentin Bisch is one of Givaudan’s hot talents.

I contacted Quentin Bisch via Instagram and he agreed to answer some questions about his fragrance style, niche vs designer and his latest creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Quentin Bisch

IMAGE COURTESY OF GIVAUDAN

What fragrance are you wearing today?

A trial for a huge project I’ve been working on for the past three years. It is the final round and there are two candidates left. In a few weeks someone will be selected for it. When I wear a fragrance, which is quite rare lately, it is Hermès Kelly Calèche EDT.

IMAGE COURTESY OF HERMES.COM

Is perfumery a profession or a calling for you?

Both. But I definitely admit that working with such a passion may change the rules of typical “professions”: you barely can stop, because you always create perfumes in your mind, while watching a movie or sleeping at night. It is an absolute part of myself and takes up the main part of my life.

Quentin Bisch - Zadig & Voltaire Girls Can Do Anything EDP

You made your fragrance debut in 2013. Has your style evolved since then?

Difficult to say… For my personal research, yes, as I keep discovering myself every day. I feel that with increasing confidence, I tend to go straight to the point. My formulas are bolder and shorter.

But the main part of the job is connected to the brands. Hence my “style”, as you call it, is clearly connected to them and adapts to answer each one. I totally get to dive into the brand’s DNA and become like their internal perfumer. I am not the same perfumer when I work for Chloé or for Paco Rabanne.

Quentin Bisch - Paco Rabanne Pure XS for Her EDP

IMAGE COURTESY OF FRAGRANTICA.COM

You are very active on Instagram. How does it benefit you as a perfumer?

Am I (laughs)? Must admit it is quite new to me. Two months ago I was not part of any social network. And you are right, now I dedicate more time to it. As a perfumer the benefit is a communication matter: you are closer to a lot of people, showing your work as you choose to, for instance, the inspiration behind the fragrances. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator, which completes and add to the brand’s communication.

“Two months ago I was not part of any social network. It gives another access to the perfumes, in the way of its creator.”

How do you like to work? For example, Is a very specific brief important to you?

Of course, some briefs are more important, because they speak to you in a particular way. I remember when the Chloé Nomade brief arrived, I was crazy. I wanted to be the one who would win it. It became very emotional, because I adore this brand. Sometimes it’s niche briefs that keep you up at night with ideas. I take most of it pretty intensely. I am like that. It is quite tiring, but life is short, so I play it hard.

Quentin Bisch - Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum

2018 has been a very busy year for you, with a number of your creations on the market. Do you work on one project at a time or do you juggle a few?

I work on many projects at the same time. But the rhythm and level of finalisation varies from one to another. So it is rarely every project at the same time. Yes, “juggling” is a good word.

You’ve created niche and designer fragrances. Is there any difference for you in the creative process?

Not that much. I work with as many creative and bold accords for niche as I do for designer fragrances. The main difference is the target. When you want to appeal to a larger audience, you need to include it in the deal. That’s why designer fragrances often are so faceted: a bit of fruit to be joyful, flower notes for fluidity, musks for comfort, and gourmand for addiction and youth… In that situation, we are far away from a niche perfume featuring only amber or spices. You don’t aim for the same result.

Quentin Bisch - Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique

Tell us about your new fragrance for L’Artisan Parfumeur, Mandarina Corsica. I haven’t tried it yet, but it sounds delicious.

For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago. I remember biting into the little candied fruit and feeling a symphony of sensations. Firstly, you feel the caramel, cold and hard, its bitterness almost burnt brown sugar. As you break it your teeth get into the peel of the mandarin: zests! Then the fruit explodes and it is all about juicy, acidulous, pulpy delight.

“For the first time I could design an accord I had in mind for years: a caramelised mandarin I tasted in Corsica a long time ago.”

Givaudan’s new mandarins (coeur and intégrale) allow one to feel a lasting freshness and juiciness, as well as the texture of the fruit. Normally citruses are top notes, meaning they burst at the head note of a perfume, but barely last. Caramel notes – more oriental – do last.

Quentin Bisch - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP

I needed a lasting citrus, bold and textured, to give the illusion that you experience this delight with all its facets evolving altogether, and that you do not end with a caramel topped by some blinking citruses. It became possible to render all the feelings and sensations of my emotional childhood memory!

 

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Interview with Olivier Cresp, 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award Winner

Olivier Cresp

IMAGE OF OLIVIER CRESP COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.

One of the great things about Instagram is how it can sometimes put us directly in touch with people we admire. A few months ago I decided to message perfumer Olivier Cresp on Instagram about the possibility of an email interview. I was super chuffed when he replied and agreed to answer a few questions. Unfortunately, this fell by the wayside and understandably so, due to his busy schedule.

When I read that Olivier Cresp was to receive The Fragrance Foundation’s 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award, I pushed my luck again for an email interview. Et voilà! With assistance from Firmenich’s communications department, I got my interview with the man himself.

Olivier Cresp

RECOGNITION: Olivier Cresp accepts his Lifetime Achievement Award at New York City’s Lincoln Centre in June 2018. This image and image below by Dia Dipasupil / Getty Images for The Fragrance Foundation.

This prestigious award is a fitting tribute to the perfumer who has given us trend-setting classics such as the gourmand-on-steroids Mugler Angel EDP (1992) and the fruity-floral summer classic Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001).

Olivier Cresp

Born in Grasse, Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances. According to an interview on the Penhaligon’s website, his great grandfather grew roses and jasmine and his grandfather and father were raw material traders. His two siblings and his son Sebastien are also perfumers.

“Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances.”

STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and has created (or co-created) many standout fragrances since then. These include: Christian Dior Dune Pour Homme EDT (1997). Cacharel Noa EDT (1998). Avon Today EDT (2004). Paco Rabanne Black XS EDT (2005). Givenchy Ange ou Demon EDP(2006). Nina Ricci Nina EDT (2006). Kenzo Amour EDP (2007). Carolina Herrera CH (2007). Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico EDT (2011). Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011). Valentino Valentina EDP (2011). Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP (2014).

Olivier Cresp - YSL Black Opium EDP

More recently, he has co-created Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium and Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris (and their various flankers).

Olivier Cresp answered my questions about changes affecting perfumery, his fragrance style, fragrance favourites and collaborative projects. 

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

The world of fragrance is always evolving and will continue to evolve. We can see that consumers are more and more interested in how a fragrance is composed, the ingredients and the story behind it. There’s an increasing accent on the origin of the raw materials and the perfumers. With globalisation, fragrances need to be loved by a lot of people from different cultures at the same time. This is a great challenge for perfumers.

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

TREND-SETTING CLASSIC: Olivier Cresp’s creation, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

I was literally born in to the world of perfumes. My family heritage introduced me to the “pure colours” of perfume since my childhood. I developed my olfactive memory during that time and a real passion emerged. I’m always on a quest for beauty, for a certain aesthetic. Once the aesthetic is found, I focus on its strength and unforgettable trail.

Olivier Cresp - Gentleman Givenchy EDT

MODERN: Olivier Cresp co-created Gentleman Givenchy (2017) with Nathalie Lorson.

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

My only objective when creating a fragrance tends to be making people feel happy and good about themselves. Above all, my work involves passion and sharing. I was named Master Perfumer in 2006 and I was also honoured with the title Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French minister of culture in 2012. I treasure coaching our younger perfumers, as I have been given so much during my entire professional life and I have a lot to share today. 

Olivier Cresp - Mugler Angel

GOURMAND ON STEROIDS: Mugler Angel was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2007.

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

It’s such a great honour and the ultimate recognition of my creativity and success. I’m so grateful and extremely happy to be acknowledged by my peers. I wouldn’t have dreamed of achieving such an accolade when I was a young perfumer. This wouldn’t have became a reality without the expertise and values of Firmenich. This award encourages me to continue to surprise the industry in the coming years, making my creations successes and even trying to discover again a new olfactive family.

Olivier Cresp - Gentleman Givenchy EDT

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

I had the chance to begin my career during a dynamic and creative period. I knew several cultural influences due to the opening of a global market. The search for authenticity and high quality also truly modernised the world of fragrances and influenced my creations. Even so, I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas. Every day I have the ability to create from a palette of 400 ingredients. I prefer to use only 20 to 30 of them to understand them more deeply.

“I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas.”

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

The fragrances you create are a bit like your children: they are all different and they all hold a special place in your heart. If I would name only a few, I would highlight the two which set a new trend: Angel by Mugler and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.

Olivier Cresp - Mugler Angel EDP

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

Creation is always a work in progress; I could put endless finishing touches on my fragrances. When creating a perfume I like, above all, the idea that people can see themselves in my creations and find happiness or what they are looking for. When I can see the smile on the face of the one who smells it, I know the fragrance needs no more work.

Olivier Cresp - YSL Black Opium EDP

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

Collaborative work is becoming more and more usual, as it offers a lot of benefits for the creative process. We feel enriched by such experiences. More than a simple dialogue between creators, collective creative experiences enable natural synergies with the common desire to innovate and reach the best result. It is all about inviting new visions into the dynamic adventure. We are used to working as a team and sharing a real intimacy. Sometimes we are alone. Sometimes we also look for additional expertise from different regions for a more international perspective.

 Sources: Fragrantica.com, Perfumer & Flavorist, Penhaligons.com

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Sonia Constant Interview: How She’s Making Her Mark In The Fragrance Industry

Sonia Constant

As is often the case with perfumers and their creations, I started enjoying the fragrances created by Sonia Constant before I knew she was the creative force behind them.

One of those fragrances would be Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc EDP, with its lush take on rose and musk, which she co-created with Calice Becker. Another would be the sensual overload of Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Sonia Constant also created Noir Pour Femme EDP, Ombre Leather 16 EDP and Orchid Soleil EDP for Tom Ford. And let’s not forget Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT. With its sophisticated spicy, woody and musk facets, it’s one of the best men’s designer fragrances in recent years, methinks.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc For Her

Sonia Constant studied perfumery at the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, the school founded by Jean-Jacques Guerlain in Versailles. She did her training at Givaudan and has worked for the company since then.

Sonia Constant

PORTRAITS OF SONIA CONSTANT COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.

The first fragrance she created, s.Oliver Sport 1 Female, was launched in 2006. Since then she has notched up an impressive list of achievements. Some of her fragrance highlights include: Coach EDT, Fragonard Etoile EDT, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiare Mimosa EDT, Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Yellow EDT, Lanvin Eclat d’Arpege Pour Homme EDT, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis EDP, Montblanc Emblem EDT, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT and Valentino Donna Noir Absolu EDP.

Sonia Constant - Coach EDT

COACH CLASS: Created by Sonia Constant, Coach EDT was launched in 2016.

When the EDP version of Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir was recently launched in South Africa, I was fortunate enough to bag an email interview with Sonia Constant. This is what she had to say.

What’s your earliest perfume memory?

The smell of my mother. 

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT

When did you know that you wanted to be a perfumer?

When I discovered it was a job! Before that I wanted to become a fashion designer or an architect. I also wanted to become a ballet dancer when I was a child.

“It’s important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.”

What are the most important things you learned when studying perfumery?

That you learn something every day. You never stop learning in this job, as logic doesn’t apply in perfumery. Also that it takes a lot of work to find the right balance and the perfect aesthetic. It’s also important to learn when to stop, to understand when your fragrance is finished.

Sonia Constant - Montblanc Lady Emblem L'Eau EDT

SPARKLING: Launched in 2017, Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau EDT is one of many fragrances created by Sonia Constant.

How important are trends for you when creating a perfume?

I think, as a creator, it is important to create the trend. I am not a follower, but more of a trendsetter. Sometimes, though, it is better and easier to follow trends, as the consumer is by nature reluctant to smell new things.

You created Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDT. How does the EDP version differ from the EDT?

We wanted to create a stronger, but fresher version – a technical challenge! I added some clary sage and made the fragrance more fluid, more watery, in a long-lasting freshness. The wood is more vibrant and gives more verticality to the fragrance. It’s also more ambery, with some cistus facets. I brought a new quality of citrus on top of the fragrance and played with our new extraordinary Integrale Bergamote ORPUR.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP

NATURAL ELEGANCE: Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDP has a fresher quality than Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT.

I wanted to create a male fragrance that’s irresistible, but not following trends. Nothing fruity, gourmand or fougère. Just a very elegant woody-spicy-citrus fragrance using the best natural components.

How long did it take you to create Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP?

One year.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir EDT and EDP

This is the fourth fragrance you have created for Narciso Rodriguez. What is it about the Narciso Rodriguez brand that you like?

I love Mr Rodriguez very much. He’s so talented and it’s an honour for me to work for him. He takes part in the development of the fragrances and has a very clear vison. A Narciso Rodriguez fragrance has a very distinctive signature – musk is very important. Narciso Rodriguez fragrances are very different from other perfumes, because they are completely off trend. I love the dresses he designs because of the way they are cut. Simple and elegant. His dresses are intemporelle, like his fragrances.

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez

IMAGE OF NARCISO RODRIGUEZ COURTESY OF BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL.

How closely did you work with Narciso Rodriguez on these perfumes? 

Mr Rodriguez smells the fragrance several times during development, but not at all stages of development. I also work very closely with the Shiseido team, who know his taste perfectly. Mr Rodriguez is very consistent in what he likes.

“I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories.”

Sonia Constant - Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc

What’s next for Sonia Constant?

I have just signed Santal Musc EDP and Narciso Rouge EDP for Narciso Rodriguez, Valentino Donna Rosa Verde EDT and Cerruti 1881 Essentiel EDT. I have also launched my own brand, Ella K Parfums, with a line of seven fragrances based on my travel memories. They are an ode to adventure in all its forms, capturing fleeting moments. Ella K is about looking at the world in a new way.

Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir EDP, R1 115 for 50ml and R1 345 for 100ml. Narciso Rodriguez Santal Musc EDP, R2 380 for 100ml.

 

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The Ugly Truth About Microbeads

Microbeads

My eyes have been taking a lot of strain recently. Not because I have been spending way too much time catching up on social media on my phone. It’s because I have been spending more time than usual reading the ultra-fine print on grooming and beauty products to see if they contain microbeads that are harmful to the environment.

“The past few years have seen an upsurge in awareness about the huge impact plastics are having on aquatic ecosystems.”

The past few years have seen an upsurge in awareness about the huge impact plastics are having on aquatic ecosystems. A lot of this damage is visible to the eye. But smaller pieces of plastic (microbeads or micro-plastics) are also contributing to the problem.

Microbeads

ALL CLEAR: Do your toiletries pass the microbeads test?

In 2015, the US banned the use of microbeads in products. The UK followed suit in early 2018. Most recently, I read that South Africa’s Department of Environmental Affairs is in talks with the cosmetics industry about phasing out these plastics: https://www.businesslive.co.za/bd/national/2018-05-18-state-gets-tough-on-toiletry-plastics/.

Microbeads

SPOT THE MICROBEADS: These tiny pieces of plastic are found in a variety of products. Image courtesy of the International Ocean Institute – Southern Africa.

I asked Dr Shannon Hampton, project co-ordinator of the International Ocean Institute – Southern Africa some questions about the environmental impact of microbeads.

What are microbeads?

Micro-plastics are any pieces of plastic that are less than 1mm in size. Some of them are visible to the human eye, but no less of a problem because of it. They are used to increase abrasiveness, add shine or sparkle.

Microbeads

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK: Microbeads in shampoo.

Which products are they found in?

Shampoos, soaps, toothpastes, body scrubs, facial scrubs, cleaning products, washing powder, make-up and body lotions. Most glitter is plastic.

Microbeads

ALL THAT GLITTERS: So pretty, yet so toxic.

Why are microbeads so harmful?

Micro-plastics are very difficult and expensive to filter out from waste water. Once they are in the environment, there is little that can be done to recover them. They contribute to the “plastic soup” that affects all parts of the ocean.

“Micro-plastics are very difficult and expensive to filter out from waste water.” 

The tiny pieces of plastic get mistaken for food by zooplankton and then the zooplankton gets eaten by a small fish. The small fish gets eaten by a big fish, which then gets caught by a fisherman and lands on your plate, plastic included. The micro-plastics get scooped up in the gaping mouths of whales or filtered through the gills of mussels and sucked in by anemones.

Microbeads

ON THE MENU: Catch of the day infused with microbeads. Image courtesy of the International Ocean Institute – Southern Africa.

It won’t surprise you that there is no nutritional value to plastic. But did you know that some of the dyes used are toxic? Not only that, but plastic absorbs toxins like DDT.  So the plastic becomes many times more toxic than the water that surrounds it (and this gets in to the meat of the fish that you eat).

Earlier this year the UK government banned the use of microbeads in various products. What is the South African government doing to combat this menace?

The Department of Environmental Affairs is working with the Department of Health to develop legislation to address the issue of microbeads.

Microbeads

How can consumers tell if the grooming or beauty products they are using contain microbeads? 

The most common micro-plastic ingredients are listed below, but there are many variations:

Polyethylene (PE)

Polypropylene (PP)

Nylon (PA)

Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA)

Polythylene Terphthalate (PET)

Be suspicious of any artificial beads in your products. Microbeads are also used in household cleaning products, which don’t list ingredients.

Microbeads

DO YOU KNOW WHAT’S INSIDE YOUR PRODUCT?

What can consumers do to bring about change regarding the use of microbeads? 

You can avoid all products with micro-plastics. Contact retailers and manufacturers asking them to no longer use them. The more people who actively choose to not buy products because of microbeads, the more pressure there will be on manufacturers to stop producing these products.

There are natural alternatives, so there is no need for plastics in our personal care products. Create awareness by talking about the issue with your friends and family. Contacting manufacturers and retailers on social media and directly can help them realise that there is public pressure to change their ways.

There is also a petition: https://www.change.org/p/ban-microbeads-in-south-africa?recruiter=69869968&utm_source=share_petition&utm_medium=facebook&utm_campaign=share_petition&utm_term=des-lg-no_src-custom_msg.

We have written about some of this on our website: http://ioisa.org/2015/09/01/ioi-sa-becomes-a-beat-the-microbead-partner/ and my blog: http://howtosurvivephd.blogspot.com/2015/08/taking-pollution-down-to-zero-become.html.

 

 

 

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Nathalie Lorson Interview: Exploring Beyond The Limits

Nathalie Lorson

In a perfume context, what could bring me more joy than wearing one of my all-time favourite fragrances, Lalique Encre Noire? Well, the thrill of interviewing the creator of that classic fragrance would come a darn close second. Who am I talking about? Master perfumer Nathalie Lorson, of course.

With a bit of crafty detective work, I managed to contact Nathalie Lorson by email. Very graciously and in between her numerous projects, she agreed to answer my questions by email.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire EDT

VERITABLE VETIVER: Launched in 2006, Lalique Encre Noire EDT has become a classic vetiver fragrance. It’s earthy, dark and dirty in all the right ways.

Please see below her answers. But first a quick-quick bio. Nathalie Lorson was born in Grasse, the heartland of perfumery. When she completed her perfume studies at Roure Perfumery School (now Givaudan), she worked for International Flavours & Fragrances. For the past 18 years, she has worked for Firmenich. With a career spanning more than 35 years, Nathalie Lorson has been a prolific perfumer, working across all genres, from designer and niche to celebrity fragrances.

Nathalie Lorson - Bentley Infinite EDT

VEHICLE OF EXPRESSION: Whenever people turn up their noses at automotive fragrances, I point them in the direction of Nathalie Lorson’s quality work for Bentley fragrances.

I won’t bore you with a long list of her 170+ creations (you can find that on Fragrantica). But this round-up of highlights will give you a good idea of her accomplishments and versatility. Dita Von Teese EDP. Dolce & Gabbana Sicily EDP. Giorgio Armani Cuir Noir EDP. Givenchy Gentleman EDT and EDP. Jil Sander Sensations EDT. Le Labo Poivre 23 London EDP. Mandarina Duck Pure Black EDT. Versace Versus Woman EDT. Yves Saint Laurent Opium and its various flankers. Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him!

Nathalie Lorson - Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT

VERSATILE: Nathalie Lorson has achieved success across all genres, including designer fragrances such as Zadig & Voltaire This Is Him! EDT.

Nathalie Lorson has also bagged several awards along the way. These include Perfumer of the Year in Italy and France (2015). This month (May 2018), she garnered the Best Fragrance of Artistic Perfumery award for Altaia Tuberose in Blue EDP by the Accademia del Profumo.

“Designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. Even today I feel like I am still learning.”

Why did you want to become a perfumer?

I spent my childhood in Grasse, where my father was working as a chemist in the fragrance industry [at Roure]. Naturally I wanted to follow my father’s path and started my perfumery studies in Grasse.

Nathalie Lorson

PORTRAITS OF NATHALIE LORSON COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.

What was the most important thing you learned when studying perfumery?

Like a pianist playing his scales, I memorised during my studies a lot of scents and learned how to associate them together. Then, I focused on the aesthetic aspect of the composition, trying to find the best harmony between all ingredients, creating the most beautiful perfume. What stayed very fresh in my mind is that designing fragrances is constantly a work in progress. It is an everyday learning. Even today I feel like I am still learning.

Nathalie Lorson - Bentley Infinite Intense EDP

 Is perfumery an art or a science for you?

As a perfumer, my main challenge lies in the art of translating emotions into addictions and to imagine the best harmony between the fragrance and the person who will wear it. More than a science, by mixing art and technique, perfumery is recognised as craftsmanship. I like to compare myself to a gold digger, seeking nuggets. We find lots of dust, but very few nuggets.

What was the first perfume you created as a professional perfumer?

My first creation in fine fragrance was a fresh floral perfume, Romeo for Romeo Gigli, in the late 80s.

Nathalie Lorson - Gentleman Givenchy EDT

How do you go about creating a perfume? Where do you find inspiration?

Discussions with inspiring people are critical – they bring to life the ideas behind the scent. My inspiration comes from everything around me: new raw materials, a surprising combination of new scents, a colour. Most importantly, the brand universe will influence the final shape of the fragrance. Always behind the scenes, I translate the brand history into an olfactory tale. Personally, I like to work with many different types of ingredients and explore them beyond their limits. I like the dynamism of switching from one project to another and juggling different ideas. I like to explore and discover.

Nathalie Lorson - Zadig & Voltaire Just Rock! EDT Pour Lui

One of my favorite fragrances is Lalique Encre Noire EDT, which you created. Looking back at that fragrance, what do you think of it?

Knowing that one of my creations became someone’s favourite scent is my greatest reward. The beautiful story of Lalique Encre Noire was written with the purest vetiver, one of my favourite raw materials. Encre Noire was subtly twisted into a modern woody blend, enhancing its noble character. Today it remains contemporary, yet timeless.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire EDT

Do you ever read reviews of the fragrances you’ve created?

Of course, as I always remain curious about how my creations are perceived by experts, including the voice of the consumer. Critics also nourish my future works.

Any plans to launch your own range of perfumes?

I do not have such plans at the moment. I feel fulfilled with all the exciting projects I am working on.

Nathalie Lorson - Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT

GOOD SPORT: Nathalie Lorson also created the superb Lalique Encre Noire Sport EDT, pictured here, and Lalique Encre Noire à L’Extrême EDP.

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Blend Of Both Worlds: Interview With Natural Perfumer Marie Aoun, Founder of Saint d’Ici

Marie Aoun of Saint d'Ici

My home town is associated with many things (not all of them positive), but it’s certainly not a centre of perfumery, natural or otherwise. So I was very intrigued to discover that Marie Aoun’s natural perfume company, Saint d’Ici, is based right here in Johannesburg, South Africa.

Marie was most kind to send me a sample pack of her natural Saint d’Ici perfumes. The metal box contained five scents. These included: The Company’s Garden, Myrrha Ambrata, Nomvikeli, Une Mandarine Pour Mon Homme and Mon Coeur Noir. At first I had to adjust to the raw earthiness of Saint d’Ici fragrances. But once I had done so, I enjoyed their unpretentious, almost “dirty” character. I use the word “dirty”, because many modern fragrances are overly sanitised.

Saint d'Ici Natural Perfumes

LITTLE BOTTLES: Samples of Saint d’Ici Mon Coeur Noir, The Company’s Garden, Nomvikeli, Myrrha Ambrata, and Une Mandarine Pour Mon Homme.

On the Saint d’Ici website, Marie explains how the name of her company came about. It also captures her approach to natural perfumery.

“The name, Saint d’Ici, comes from my earliest olfactive memories. I spent a great deal of time growing up at my grandparents’ house near the small village of Saint Jeannet in Provence. I distinctly remember rosemary, lavender and laurel when I think back to that time. It was these beautiful, classic, natural scents that first drew me to natural perfumery. However, as I started to explore African perfume materials, a whole new world of smells opened up to me. Rich, dusty, sweet-herbaceous, animalic and deep scents. Saint Jeannet was updated, it became Saint d’Ici (of here), a blend of both worlds.”

Saint d'Ici's Marie Aoun Lavender

OLFACTIVE MEMORIES: Lavender is one of the classic scents that attracted Marie Aoun to natural perfumery.

I was not able to meet Marie for an actual face-to-face interview, after my initial email questions. She had just become a mother for the first time, so obviously didn’t have much free time. I hope to meet her in the future, as I would love to learn more about her craft. In the meantime, though, this is what she had to say about her love of natural perfumes, “synthetics” and working with natural ingredients.

Marie Aoun of Saint d'Ici

PORTRAIT OF A NATURAL PERFUMER: All pics courtesy of Marie Aoun, except images of sample pack, lavender and sample bottles.

Where does your love for natural perfumery come from?

Quite simply, from my love of nature. My happy place is lying down under the trees in my garden. I believe most of us find nature therapeutic – we’ve been programmed that way. Perfumes are a sensual pleasure. I find that natural perfume ingredients affect me, mentally, physically and spiritually, in ways that synthetics cannot.

Why did you launch Saint d’Ici? And what do you hope to hope to achieve with Saint d’Ici?

I launched Saint d’Ici to create beautiful perfumes made exclusively from natural ingredients. Our perfumes are limited to editions of between 50 and 350 bottles per scent. This way we honour the seasonality and variability of natural ingredients. We also source most of our ingredients directly from farmers and artisan distillers in southern Africa. This way we ensure the purity of the ingredients and the ethics behind their production.

We created the hashtag #farmertofragrance to illustrate the importance that we attach to working this way. The added benefit of directly sourcing from small-scale farmers is that it provides us with access to lesser-known perfume ingredients that are only produced in small quantities. Our goal is to make all of these wonderful natural ingredients come alive through our perfumes in ways that will enchant the wearer.

Saint d'Ici iris harvest

FARMER TO FRAGRANCE: Saint d’Ici sources most of its ingredients directly from farmers and artisan distillers in southern Africa.

Are you totally against “synthetic” fragrances?

I wish I could remember where I had read this so that I could give the author their due. But the gist of what they said was: choosing a branch of perfumery is like choosing a religion. You cannot claim superiority. Clearly my religion is natural perfumes, but I am happy for others to practise synthetics. Having said that, I do take olfactory offence at the proliferation and strength of synthetic smells. I literally have to hold my breath until I’ve passed the candles and diffusers in most home stores.

“Clearly my religion is natural perfumes, but I am happy for others to practise synthetics.”

Saint d'Ici African perfume ingredients

THE OTHER HALF OF THE BLEND: African perfume ingredients.

What’s your favourite natural ingredient to work with?

That is a very tough question! I find that I go through phases. Lately I find myself adding a little bit of omumbiri or Namibian myrrh to most blends. I find that it helps seemingly disparate elements come together. It also lends expansiveness, modernity and masculinity to my mixes. One ingredient I never tire of smelling and working with is bergamot. Although true bergamot is from Sicily, I source mine locally from South Africa’s Western Cape province. It is just as beautiful.

Saint d'Ici Ingredients - Gemmerbos

FOLLOWING THE INGREDIENT: Fresh and dried gemmerbos.

How do you go about creating your fragrances? And how do you select the noses for your saint d’ici fragrances? 

I almost always start with an ingredient. My formula book has titles such as “Opoponax Absolute no. 11” or “Fever Tea no. 8”. I like to see how many different ways I can use a single ingredient and whether it works best centre front or in the chorus. I know that most perfumers start off with a story or fantasy, but I prefer to let the ingredients tell me where they’d like to go.

Saint d'Ici ingredients - clary sage

HERBACEOUS: Clary sage, one of the ingredients used in Saint d’Ici fragrances.

Saint d’Ici currently works with three other noses, all of whom I met whilst studying natural perfumery in Italy. I selected them because they are all talented and each bring a different aspect of natural perfumery to the table. Maurice Val nails unisex perfectly. Andrea Dittler brings vintage, old-world charm. Constance Beck-Treadway has the creativity to try radically new combinations together, with the ability to make them work.

Saint d'Ici Nomvikeli Constance Beck-Treadway

CREATIVE COMBINATIONS: Constance Beck-Treadway is one of the noses Marie Aoun works with.

Do you have a fragrance hero/heroine?

Not specifically. I am much more likely to be inspired by traditional cultures and their use of perfumery. The San’s use of buchu [a South African medicinal herb], the Sudanese matrimonial perfume ceremonies, even the Dogon’s love of the scent of fried onion are far more interesting to me than a fragrance master. They remind me of the instinctive response that we all have to raw and natural perfume ingredients.

Saint d'Ici Ingredients - Orange Bigarade

INSTINCTIVE RESPONSE: Marie Aoun takes her inspiration from natural ingredients.

What’s next for you?

I am currently researching the various ways in which people fragrance their homes that are perhaps a little less obvious than scented candles and diffusers. I am look forwarding to doing more custom projects in the future. All the while I continue to work on new blends, to explore new ingredients and connect with various farmers and distillers across the continent.