FRAGRANCE Archives - Page 7 of 22

February 26, 2022February 26, 2022

Best Byredo Fragrances: 12 Releases From The Swedish Niche Brand To Get Your Nose On

A rhetorical question before I get to my best Byredo fragrances selection: is there a cooler perfume brand founder than Ben Gorham (pictured, below)? The fine arts graduate and professional basketball player-turned-entrepreneur launched his fragrance company in Stockholm, Sweden, in 2006.

Image: Byredo.

Within a few years, Byredo secured its position as a leading niche house with straightforward yet distinctive compositions that range from the crowd-pleasing to the more daringly unusual.

Some recent releases haven’t hit the heights of earlier ones, but there’s still no shortage of best Byredo fragrances.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Byredo fragrances?

BYREDO GYPSY WATER EDP

All successful niche brands make their name with specific releases. This 2008 EDP put Byredo firmly on the fragrance map.

A celebration of Romany culture in a most romantic way, the olfactory homage begins in delicately fresh style, with notes of juniper berries, bergamot and lemon capturing the imagination. Seductive mystery wafts throughout in the form of smoky incense and aromatic pine needle notes. And then it’s time for a terrific trio of vanilla, amber and sandalwood to lay on the creaminess.

No surprises, it’s been a best-seller since its launch and remains the perfect intro to the house.

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP

This 2009 release epitomises the brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.

There’s a big blast of aldehydes in the opening. Most well known for its use in Chanel No 5, this synthetic gives this EDP a fresh, soapy vibe. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.

With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this 2009 release. It’s probably my favourite in this best Byredo fragrances round-up.

The tone is set from the opening, with its mix of citrus freshness (lemon, bergamot, neroli). Notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality, with soft florals in the background. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk and Moroccan cedarwood in the drydown.

It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances on the market and holds the attention from start to finish.

BYREDO LA TULIPE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Who says tulips aren’t fragrant? While most varieties are indeed odourless, this 2010 release showcases the floral in spectacularly scented style.

The intro of cyclamen, freesia and rhubarb notes creates a fresh spring-like mood. The rendition of tulip builds on that freshness in a lush green, slightly spicy style. It’s impressively realistic and not sweet in the least. The vetiver in the drydown maintains the green freshness, while blonde woods (the synthetic Cashmeran) brings smooth muskiness.

One of the best in the genre, it stands out for all the right reasons.

BYREDO OUD IMMORTEL EDP

Oud is regarded as one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery and this 2010 release does a fine job of approximating its appeal through skilful use of ingredients.

The intro sees the resinous spice of cardamom infused with the smoke of incense. The combination of richly floral Brazilian rosewood, smoky papyrus and earthy patchouli notes come together to create a remarkable oud-like result. Notes of oakmoss and tobacco maintain the illusion in the drydown.

The brand’s Accord Oud is also recommended, if you’re looking for a fruitier, leathery take on the theme.

BYREDO BLACK SAFFRON EDP

Inspired by Ben Gorham’s heritage (his mother is Indian) and the importance of saffron in Hinduism, this 2012 release is not as abstinent as it sounds.

The leathery qualities of spicy saffron are played up in the intro, with a fresh hint of juniper berries and grapefruit in the background. A gently animalic leather accord is sweetened with a note of fruity raspberry and powdery violet, while Cashmeran brings a warm musky vibe to the composition.

If you’re in the market for a sophisticated leather fragrance, Byredo Saffron deserves a place in your collection.

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP

The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release.

The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.

A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP

Taking its cue from the nickname given by soldiers to the courageous, life-saving nurses during the First World War, this 2015 release is the one for you if you’re looking for a gentle intro to a rose fragrance.

It opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by the rosy spiciness of pink peppercorns. The centrepiece is softly enveloping Turkish rose absolute, with the fruity-floral hues of raspberry blossom in the background.

Finished with an amber accord and the aromatic woodiness of papyrus, it’s a warm and agreeable fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

BYREDO BIBLIOTHÈQUE EDP

As its name suggests, this 2017 release (originally the brand’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity mode with sweet (but not too sweet) notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring peony. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect.

A leather accord completes the EDP, with notes of patchouli and vetiver adding to the intimate feel of being immersed in a world of old books.

BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd-friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

BYREDO SLOW DANCE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

I don’t always buy into the story of a fragrance, but the one for this 2019 release works a charm – “a rites-of-passage moment… high school clichés mingle…” – both in its inspiration and execution.

Jérôme Epinette conjures a suitably sweet and sticky experience with notes of opoponax, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli notes featuring prominently in the warm, almost candyfloss-y ambience.

I can almost feel the teachers scanning the young couples for any unacceptable behaviour as George Michael’s Careless Whisper creates a frisson among the young’uns.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron.

A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental atmosphere.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

All of these best Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

February 19, 2022

Laws of Perfumery

I’ve been wanting to do this post for some time. As the flipside to The New Rules post I did a few years ago. While the latter was mostly about how flexible things have become, there are certain incontrovertible Laws of Perfumery.

Fragrance Etiquette: The New Rules (Plus Some Things That Never Change)

DESPITE THE INDUSTRY’S OBFUSCATION, MODERN PERFUMERY IS VERY MUCH ABOUT WHAT GOES ON IN THE LAB.

All those images of fields of florals and seaside reveries would have you believe that perfumery is nature’s bounty. Words play their part too in the elaborate deception.

Of course, the reality is very different. From Houbigant Fougère Royale (coumarin), Guerlain Jicky (vanillin) and Chanel No 5 (aldehydes) to the more recent Mugler Angel (Ethyl maltol) and Dior Sauvage (Ambroxan), synthetics are the backbone of perfumery.

Hoorah for those brands that are upfront about the use of aroma-chemicals and captive molecules in their creations.

JUST BECAUSE IT’S POPULAR DOESN’T MEAN IT WILL STAY IN PRODUCTION.

“Why?!” What’s that wailing sound? Oh, just another perfumista mourning the discontinuation of their favourite scent.

This phenomenon is almost always never announced by brands. One day you see it on the company website, the next day you don’t. The much-loved Yves Saint Laurent M7 and Gucci Pour Homme II are two primary examples here.

The result is always the same: waves of nostalgia for said fragrance and sellers charging exorbitant prices for it on sites like eBay.

The corollary: traumatised perfumistas spreading false rumours that a fragrance is about to be discontinued. Just the other day, I had to reassure someone that L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is, in fact, still available on the brand’s website. Keep calm and buy back-up bottles just in case…

IF THERE’S MONEY TO BE MADE, EXPECT LOTS OF FLANKERS.

Certain brands seem to have made the flankerisation (I’m including limited editions) of their best-sellers their raison d’être.

Prime suspects: Lancôme La Vie est Belle and Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire. But Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male (the French brand’s Scandal franchise is going in the same direction), Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey and Mugler Angel have made it an art form.

If you’ve managed to keep up with all the additions of any of the above and can tell the difference between the various iterations, you most certainly deserve a prize. The latest addition to any of the above-mentioned ranges.

NICHE ISN’T IMMUNE TO THE LAWS OF PERFUMERY.

As niche brands become more commercially driven (they are enterprises, after all), the more they follow the business models of designer brands.

Once the preserve of designer brands, flanking, albeit on a smaller scale, is increasingly common in niche.

Image: Juliette Has A Gun.

PERFUMERY ISN’T FOR PURISTS.

What’s worse than a discontinued favourite? For traditionalists, a resurrected, reinterpreted favourite for a new generation that bears little resemblance to the original and stripped of its mystique.

“What’s worse than a discontinued favourite? For traditionalists, a resurrected, reinterpreted favourite.”

Created for Audrey Hepburn, L’Interdit Givenchy is the stuff of legends. Originally produced as a gift from Hubert Givenchy for the actress, it was released commercially in 1957. The French brand revived it in 2018 as Givenchy L’Interdit and it’s doing very well, judging by the steady succession of annual releases.

Laws of Perfumery - Perfumery Isn't For Purists

ICONIC: Audrey Hepburn was the first actress to become the face for a perfume.

Dior launched Joy in 2018 to much consternation from fans of the classic Jean Patou Joy from 1930. The French brand’s parent company, LVMH, bought the legendary couturier’s company in 2018 on the sly, with Dior acquiring the rights to the name Joy. Then in 2020, the luxury conglomerate pulled the plug on Jean Patou perfumes while keeping the fashion side of the business (now known as Patou). It doesn’t get more brutal and uns(c)entimental than that.

JUST BECAUSE IT’S POPULAR DOESN’T MEAN IT’S RUBBISH (OR WHAT GOES UP MUST BE PULLED DOWN)

The more successful a fragrance becomes, the more it’s trashed online.

Case in point: Bleu de Chanel. “Boring!” they declare. Having revisited it recently, it’s actually very good, thank you.

Another of the last decade’s big fragrances, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540, is also getting its fair share of negative commentary. Yes, it’s everywhere, both in its original and much-copied forms, but let’s give credit where it’s due.

PERFUME IS ALSO A VISUAL MEDIUM.

Huh? Steady on, old chap, what are you on about now? From bottles to packaging, whether minimalist or over-the-top, perfume is as much about the optics as it is about the olfactives.

In our digital world, this has gone a step further, with Instagram users, in particular, taking it to new levels of visual stimulation.

This law sounded rather clever at first. Now I’m just wondering if I’m stating the obvious…

What do you think? Do you have any Laws of Perfumery you’d like to add?

February 3, 2022

Les Parfums de Rosine: An Interview With Artistic Director Louis Rogeon

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

Fragrance nerd alert! Did you know that the first designer to launch a perfume was Paul Poiret (pictured, below)? The Parisian couturier founded his company, Parfums de Rosine (named after his daughter), in 1911. It enjoyed considerable success until it was forced to close when the Great Depression hit in 1929.

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

The house was brought back to life in 1991 when Marie-Hélène Rogeon (pictured, below) acquired it, with a focus on roses. Since then, the brand has become renowned for its quality takes on the queen of florals.

Les Parfums de Rosine - Marie-Hélène Rogeon

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

I speak to artistic director Louis Rogeon about balancing heritage and innovation, the versatile appeal of roses and the house’s latest release.

What’s your designation at the company and what does it involve?

We are an independent company with a jack-of-all-trades team. My role is mainly that of artistic director. I take care of product development: concept, packs and visuals, as well as olfactory creation.

Condolences for your mother’s death last year. Have you taken on more responsibilities since her passing?

Thank you so much. I obviously cannot replace her. She has been the soul of this perfume house for over 30 years and a pioneer in niche perfumery.

Of course, I am taking on new tasks, particularly closer relationships with our various partners and in the administrative follow-up of the company.

We are a small team but overflowing with passion. Everyone has stepped up their work since this sad event.

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

The company was originally founded by couturier Paul Poiret. What made it such an attractive investment?

The main attraction lies in the fact that our family worked for the Poiret house in the 1920s. They mainly collaborated in the packaging of perfumes. There was therefore a clear lineage. My mother grew up in this universe. As a child at home, there were many old bottles, trimmings and other illustrations dating back to that time.

“The figure of Paul Poiret fascinated her. He was an avant-garde with boundless creativity.”

The figure of Paul Poiret fascinated her. He was an avant-garde with boundless creativity. Not many people know it, but he was also the first couturier to create his own brand of perfumes.

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

Reviving a brand isn’t easy, even one with such an illustrious heritage. What were the greatest challenges at the time of acquisition?

Surprisingly, the acquisition of the brand was easy. The descendants were sensitive to the idea of my mother and to the fact that this perfume house could come back to life.

The main challenge then was to recreate a concept from this heritage. For several years, the brand was a mono-perfume, with La Rose de Rosine (pictured, below) as the only reference. It was only gradually that my mother developed the idea of a brand based around the concept of the rose.

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

How do you maintain the balance between respect for heritage and contemporary innovation?

Things are done quite naturally. In their presentations, our products borrow from the brand’s Art Deco past, notably with our logos: the “R” and the double rose. The trimmings – in different forms – have also been preserved.

Then, in stages, our products evolved to be innovative: coloured bottles appeared, accompanied by more contemporary packs and visual universe.

The perfumers with whom we collaborate have also participated in this dynamic. They are all young noses which spontaneously created a contemporary perfumery.

All Les Parfums de Rosine perfumes have a rose theme. Is that ever limiting for the perfumers you collaborate with?

Not at all. All our creations have a trace of rose but ultimately few are worked like real rose scents. Only La Rose de Rosine and Rose Nue (pictured, below) can be considered soliflores. At the same time, they are two fragrances of great complexity with multiple facets.

Our collection covers all olfactory families, with woody, fruity, citrus, marine fragrances, etc. In most of our creations, the rose is present as an element that expresses the olfactory signature of our brand. The rose is above all a delicious, elegant and timeless raw material which gives a lot of roundness and richness to the perfumes.

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

Let’s talk about your latest release, Bulle de Rose, created by Serge de Oliviera. What makes it different from other perfumes from the brand?

Bulle de Rose is a powdery fragrance that revisits, with freedom and modernity, the legendary note of Camay soap. Its originality remains in its construction: it is a fragrance that is both fresh and opulent. The base notes – sandalwood, patchouli, Ambroxan – may make one imagine a “heavy” fragrance, yet it remains sparkling and radiant with an impression of cleanliness given by the soapy accord.

Serge de Oliveira has created a number of fragrances for the brand. Why do you enjoy working with him?

Serge is a perfectionist. The pleasure we have in working with him is simple and natural because he spontaneously understood the DNA of our brand. The exchange is therefore very pleasant. He is a creative young perfumer, with an immense culture of perfume.

We have already developed four fragrances together. The first was Bleu Abysse, in which he mixed mineral and iodine notes with a background of oud. This is certainly the first time that a perfume has dared to go with this accord. He blew us away from the start!

Image: Les Parfums de Rosine.

How you prefer to work with your perfumers? Are they given a tight brief? Or is there lots of room for interpretation?

It’s a mix of the two. Although our briefs are quite precise, we like perfumers to feel as free as possible in their creations.

We love nothing more than being surprised. Then the dialogue takes place (sometimes over the long term). It is during this exchange that the most beautiful creations come to fruition.

What can we look forward to in 2022 from Les Parfums de Rosine?

I cannot say much because we are planning some important novelties for the brand and this work remains confidential for the moment…

Order Les Parfums de Rosine fragrances from the brand’s website.

January 24, 2022January 26, 2022

Ilias Ermenidis Interview: “Confidence Is My Fuel To Keep Good Spirits Through The Most Stressful Projects”

Image: Firmenich.

“If I had a middle name, it would be Ambrox, the sexiest molecule alive,” says Ilias Ermenidis with characteristic humour. This ability to see the lighter side of things has served the perfumer well in his career that spans more than three decades and several countries.

“If I had a middle name, it would be Ambrox, the sexiest molecule alive” – Ilias Ermenidis

Ilias Ermenidis was born in Istanbul, Turkey, and was exposed to the world of perfumery at his father’s factory there. After graduating from perfume school and joining Firmenich (the Swiss fragrance and flavour business), he spent 10 years living between Paris and Geneva. He then spent 25 years in the company’s New York office before returning to Paris in 2019.

Image: Firmenich.

In this time, he’s earned the respect of both the industry and fragrance fans with his finely tuned technical and creative skills in a variety of genres. His résumé of creations includes:

+ Byblos EDP (1990)

+ Oscar de la Renta So de la Renta EDT (1997)

+ Victoria’s Secret Heavenly EDP (1999)

+ Givenchy Pour Homme EDT (2002)

+ Avon Treselle EDP (2003)

+ Vera Wang Princess EDT (2006)

+ Gucci by Gucci EDP (2007)

+ Jay Z Gold EDT (2013)

+ Michael Kors Extreme Blue EDT (2015)

+ Lancôme Oud Ambroisie EDP (2016)

+ Yves Saint Laurent Cuir EDP (2016)

+ Calvin Klein Obsessed For Men EDT (2017)

+ Amouroud Oud Tabac EDP (2018)

+ Nishane Ege Aigaio Extrait de Parfum (2020)

+ Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 EDP (2021)

We chatted about his career, how he works and recent projects.

You worked at your father’s fragrance and flavour factory as a young man. How did that prepare you for the world of perfumery? Was it a given that you’d become a perfumer?

No, it wasn’t. I knew I wanted to work in the fragrance industry later, but it wasn’t until I did my first internship at the Firmenich compounding facility in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1981. And it was immediately after I started studying perfumery that I decided to become a perfumer.

Image: YSL.

Where did you study? And what do you value most from that experience?

I studied at the ISIP (Institut Supérieur International du Parfum) in Versailles, France. This was one of the most defining events of my life – not only did it spark my passion to become a perfumer, but I also met my future wife there.

Image: Gucci.

What was your first perfume and how does it reflect your style?

My first fine fragrance, Byblos, launched in Italy in 1990, still reflects my love of transparent- and Mediterranean-style notes.

Image: Byblos.

How do you prepare for a perfume project?

With enthusiasm and in search of new emotions to share with inspiring clients that allow you to create something beautiful together.

Even with all your experience, what aspect of perfumery do you struggle with most?

It is by far one of the most competitive métiers in the world. You need some humour, some philosophy and thick skin most of the days.

Ilias Ermenidis - Lancôme Oud Ambroisie EDP

Image: Lancôme.

Tell us about a Firmenich captive molecule you’re particularly excited about and how you’ve used it in one of your recent creations.

There are so many that I cannot talk about, but if I had a middle name, it would be Ambrox, the sexiest molecule alive. My most recent creation where it’s part of the addictive signature is Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 EDP.

Ilias Ermenidis - Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 EDP

Image: Huda Beauty.

Did your Greek heritage help in the creation of Nishane Ege Aigaio Extrait de Parfum, which is inspired by summer holidays on the Aegean Sea?

Of course, absolutely. Anything and everything that has to do with my Hellenic heritage and my birthplace of Istanbul is close to my heart and an inexhaustible source of inspiration. But I must admit that the ingredients I imagined for this creation are less typical, more unexpected.

I see from your Instagram you’ve recently finished working on the relaunch of Kylie Minogue Darling. How is this one different from the Thierry Wasser original from 2006? What can you tell us about the star’s perfume preferences?

The new version, although olfactively related to the original, is significantly more woody, ambery and intense with a touch of modern gourmandise. The only thing I can tell you is that Kylie, just like me, adores Ambrox!

Ilias Ermenidis - Kylie Minogue Darling EDP

Image: Kylie Minogue Perfumes.

You have lots of experience with Brazilian and Middle Eastern clients. What are the key developments in these major markets?

These are two very different markets by olfactive standards and the number of clients present, much more numerous in the Middle East. Both markets are booming since September, with the Middle East super booming.

What gets you through a particularly stressful project?

I feel grateful to practice my beautiful craft every day surrounded by trusting colleagues and clients. Confidence is my fuel to keep good spirits through some of the most stressful and particularly long projects.

Ilias Ermenidis - Calvin Klein Obsessed For Men EDT

Image: Calvin Klein.

How do you celebrate your successes?

I send a picture of the bottle to my family as soon as I get one in my hands, and nothing beats that moment.

Follow Ilias Ermenidis on Instagram @iliasermenidis.

January 15, 2022

The Perfume Companion: An Interview With Authors Sarah McCartney and Samantha Scriven

What do you get when you combine the knowledge of a perfumer (Sarah McCartney, founder of 4160 Tuesdays) and a fragrance blogger (Samantha Scriven, iscentyouaday), both award-winners in their fields? It could only be the recently published book, The Perfume Companion: The Definitive Guide To Choosing Your Next Scent (Frances Lincoln).

Image: The Quarto Group.

Most of us know how daunting choosing a new fragrance can be. With an estimated 2 000+ launches every year, we’re confronted with a plethora / deluge of choice. The industry also does itself and consumers no favours by misleading us with myths (“natural is best”) and manipulative sales techniques.

And that’s where this well-written and often-humorous guide is so useful. True to its title, like a good friend, The Perfume Companion will point you in the right direction and correct you when necessary with no-nonsense facts.

“Like a good friend, it will point you in the right direction and correct you when necessary with no-nonsense facts.”

The book is divided into user-friendly fragrance types – for example, citrus, floral, woods. There’s also essential info on the history of perfume, ingredients, sense of smell and longevity, among others.

Image: The Quarto Group.

While there’s no surprise to see the inclusion of iconic fragrances such as Chanel No 5, Robert Piguet Fracas and Dior Eau Sauvage, the diversity of featured scents, from cheap ’n cheerful to blow-the-budget, appeals most to my non-snobbery approach.

I chatted with the authors about scent shopping tips, synthetics vs naturals and why cheap is good.

All the perfumes featured in this post are included in The Perfume Companion: The Definitive Guide To Choosing Your Next Scent.

TEA-RIFFIC: Elizabeth Arden Green Tea is one of the many budget-friendly scents to be found in The Perfume Companion.

How did this book project come about? Please give us some background.

Sarah: The Perfume Companion was a long time in the preparation. I was asked to write a proposal, and it was handed around the Quarto publishing organisation several times before the Frances Lincoln department took it up.

After producing the proposal, I wasn’t expecting to be asked to write the whole book and at first, I turned it down as I couldn’t see how to fit it into my life. I asked Sam if she would be interested in helping out, and off we went.

INSIDER INFO: Sarah McCartney is the founder of 4160 Tuesdays.

What makes your book different from the others on the market?

Sam: You’ll find zero snobbery, zero negativity and something for all budgets. There’s no male/female section because we believe anyone can wear anything.

It was important to us to be kind and we didn’t want to insult anyone else’s favourite. If you want to find negativity about a perfume, you can usually find it somewhere online. We wanted The Perfume Companion to be a feel-good happy place.

AWARD-WINNING: Samantha Scriven is the talent behind the blog I Scent You A Day.

Sarah: The original idea was to take a fragrance that was pretty well known for each category, and to introduce people to a wider selection of scents of that style: the luxury one, an entry level one, and some that they might never have heard of.

As we went on, some were discontinued along the way. There are categories of fragrance that are hugely popular – floral musks and woody ambers – and others with far fewer options, but that was the basic structure.

Image: The Quarto Group.

How did the two of you work together to produce it?

Sam: I live in a small town in south Wales, so I caught the train to London several times to meet Sarah.

We started by visiting perfumeries in London to gauge what we might want to include. After that, Covid happened, so we did everything remotely until November 2021 when we finally met up once again at Sarah’s studio.

Sarah: Many, many emails. I was quite tough on Sam at first because I am accustomed to severe self-editing, after working as a copywriter for 20 years. Sam’s blog posts are far longer and poetically inclined, so I was wielding my word-scalpel to get it down to the word count. I slightly terrified her, but in a constructive way.

I also wanted to get Sam’s genuine voice to sing out of the page, which it really does. I’m more technical so I would pile in and say, “Mate, you can’t write that because while I know that’s what the press release says, it’s not actually…err… true.”

When it came to the crunch, how did you decide which perfumes to include and exclude?

Sam: This was probably the hardest bit and there were many that we wanted to include, but we had 500 perfumes to write about and 14 categories, so we picked perfumes that we thought were important and/or good examples.

Everything we wrote about deserved to be in there. We’re both proud of the fact that none of the brands featured had any idea we were writing about them. We were 100% impartial.

When it came to including Sarah’s creations [from 4160 Tuesdays], it would have been strange not to. If a perfumer is writing a book, you can’t expect them to pretend they don’t make perfume!

Image: 4160 Tuesdays.

The world of perfumery is filled with myths, half-truths and damn creative lies. How can it be simplified for those who don’t have as much experience as the two of you?

Sam: Sarah is my guru on this one. Her introduction in the book busts a lot of myths, especially that natural is always best.

Another thing I feel strongly about is transparency and giving credit where it’s due. We worked hard to research the names of as many perfumers as we could. They deserve recognition.

SHATTERING MYTHS: The Perfume Companion debunks several notions, including “natural is best”.

Sarah: Perfume is complicated. Natural materials are made with hundreds of different chemicals, some of which are harmful to humans, because plants make them as part of their defence against animal attack. This is something that people don’t want to hear, and brands want to keep quiet because getting this message across is difficult, so they don’t bother.

The biggest problem with all cosmetics right now is the unethical marketing which bangs on about “natural” as if it is a code word for gentleness and safety.

The pressure to comply with this narrative is so strong that perfume companies are just giving up and writing idiotic things like “free from sulfates” on the packaging. Sulfates make bubbles; no one ever puts them in perfume, but I get asked, “Are your perfumes sulfate free?” by people who have been bamboozled into believing this tosh is an actual benefit.

“The biggest problem with all cosmetics right now is the unethical marketing which bangs on about “natural” as if it is a code word for gentleness and safety.”

The simplest message: all legit cosmetics companies comply with stringent EU safety laws. The formulas are secret because we are so tired of rip-off artists copying them and we want to make it as difficult as possible for counterfeiters to steal our original ideas.

What are the biggest mistakes people make when shopping for fragrances? What advice would you give them?

Sam: Don’t do what I do and come home with five different perfumes on each arm. I’m always making this mistake and I can never tell which I liked once I’ve sprayed four more over the top.

Also, try your perfume in different weather and temperatures. It can make a dramatic difference. If you spray it on a blotter, write the name of it on there. Discovery sets and samples are the best way to test one at a time. Also, if it smells good on your friend, it might not smell good on you.

Sarah: At least Sam makes it home with scented arms, not a bag full of perfumes.

First, try them on scent strips, then go outside into the fresh air. Sales assistants will try to keep you handcuffed to the coffee beans – which don’t work, they just smell of coffee – but go outside. Go back, choose one for each arm, and spray. Then go outside again. Wander around a bit. Go back again if you like one enough to buy it. If not, go home.

Sales assistants can be too short term about this; they’re drilled to get the sale and not allow the customer to leave the counter before buying at least one. The unpleasant feeling that you’re being shoved into buying something by a combination of coercion and flattery means you’re less likely to visit that store ever again.

I might sound cynical, but believe me, I’ve read the sales training manuals, and I’ve never seen a more manipulative method of psychological control. Resist! Share with your friends, take recommendations, don’t be shoved into paying for something that’s “quite nice” that you’ll regret later.

Perfume is to be treasured and enjoyed. The feeling that someone cajoled you into buying something to make that week’s bonus takes the delight away.

I love that you’ve included great cheapies (Avon, Lynx, Impulse, Jovan Musk) and celebrity fragrances (Sarah Jessica Parker, Elizabeth Taylor) among the more upmarket designer and niche offerings. Why was that important to you?

Sam: I really wanted to be inclusive and to make the point that you don’t have to have a large disposable income or specialist knowledge to enjoy perfume. Even the cheapest of body sprays are made by professional perfumers.

Sarah: I’ve heard people apologise for their perfumes, “I’m sorry, it’s only…” and that shouldn’t be happening. If you love it, you love it. I’ve smelled some fragrances which cost $300 a bottle and I know they’ve been made with the same musks as others that cost $20.

Some inexpensive materials are gorgeous, including essential oils and aroma-chemicals; others are phenomenally costly, also including essential oils and aroma-chemicals. All a big budget does is to give the perfumer a wider range of materials to choose from; it doesn’t guarantee a better fragrance.

Image: Lynx.

You give a fair amount of attention to the role of synthetics. Should the industry be doing more to educate consumers on why these are essential to modern perfumery?

Sam: Absolutely. There’s a lot of fear about chemicals and synthetics, and there needn’t be.

I’ve often been asked if I know of any “chemical-free” perfumes, and I can’t think of anything in the world that is chemical free. Even an apple fresh from the tree has naturally occurring chemicals in it, and they’re not the enemy. I hope Sarah’s introduction clears up a lot of myths.

“I can’t think of anything in the world that is chemical free.”

Sarah: 95% of perfumes are at least 90% synthetics and they have been since the 1890s.

There are some scary people attempting to undermine science these days, implying that something that isn’t “natural” doesn’t deserve a place in their community, and these themes can then be expanded once they have taken hold.

We need more science education all round, and perfumery is a good place to start. Part of the problem is that the perfume marketers have no idea what’s really in their perfumes and if they did, they wouldn’t tell customers. Many people are under the impression that a “notes list” is a list of materials.

As a perfume maker I relish the delights of the stunning aroma-chemicals available to me to help create olfactory wonders, as perfumers have done since at least 1862.

All the major scent trends in the last 150 years have been led by developments in science: violets, lily of the valley, vanilla, the sea air, candy floss – all aroma-chemicals.

We need to banish the fear and free people from concern. I mean, beautiful natural white cedar leaf essential oil is highly restricted because it contains thujone, a deadly neurotoxin. No one mentions how dangerous natural materials can be; it’s not part of the myth.

Thank goodness for brands which are emphasizing the lovely molecules they are using. I adore using naturals, but they can be helped to bloom and radiate by adding synthetics. After they’ve been through a distillery to create essential oils, naturals are missing some of their mojo. Molecules put it back.

Are you planning another book already?

Sam: There are no plans at this moment, but I would very happily write with Sarah again.

Sarah: I’ve almost finished my perfume-making book which demystifies the process for beginners and artisans who have already started to dabble. It’s based on the courses I teach.

**Where can The Perfume Companion be ordered from?**

Sam: You can order this book from booksellers around the world. Try this link to see where to buy it in your country. We’d love it if you ordered from an independent bookshop.

December 17, 2021

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases: From FF To Ébène Fumé

Best recent Tom Ford releases? Some people might grumble that there’s no such thing. That they are now more style than substance. That the designer has peaked, etc.

DARK ARTS: Tom Ford in the campaign for Tom Ford Noir. Image: Tom Ford.

Yes, there have been a few average releases in the past few years, but these are the exception rather than the norm. From this round-up of best recent Tom Ford fragrances, it’s clear the luxury brand still has much to offer and is making a lot of money for its founder’s retirement and partner, Estée Lauder Companies, in the process.

Even before he founded his eponymous brand in 2006, Tom Ford was a household name. The savvy and suave businessman entered the fragrance biz in 2006, one year after the launch of his company, with the mega-hit Tom Ford Black Orchid EDP.

Image: Tom Ford.

In a pioneering move, the designer launched his more upmarket and niche-like Private Blend Collection in 2007, including classics such as Noir de Noir, Oud Wood and Tobacco Vanille.

Image: Tom Ford.

A master of provocative imagery since his stints as creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, he’s not been afraid to use the same tactics at his own house (see below). This has extended to the names of some of his recent fragrance releases: Fucking Fabulous, Lost Cherry and Rose Prick.

Image: Tom Ford.

And there’s the crux: the most controversial thing about Tom Ford fragrances now are their prices, especially those from the Private Blend line. Of course, how you price value is personal.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best recent Tom Ford releases?

Image: Tom Ford.

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Tom Ford had this to say about the attention-grabbing 2017 release (call it “FF” if the name’s too much for you): “It’s undeniably the most straightforward name for such a beautiful scent. Why make it complicated?” However, the shock value overshadowed what is an appealing leather scent.

It opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with the aromatics of lavender in support. The smooth leather that follows is paired with bitter almond and vanilla, giving it a warm, almost gourmand-ish effect. The drydown keeps it sensual and gently sweet with notes of tonka bean and cashmeran.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

TOM FORD FOUGÈRE PLATINE EDP (LINDA SONG & OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

With its classic masculine profile, the fougère olfactory family features often in the Tom Ford repertoire.

The opening of this 2018 release is in fresh mode, with the herbal tones of clary sage supported by notes of lavender, lemon and bergamot. Herbal artemisia is the centre of attention with its sharply green qualities. Its potency is tempered with the subtle sweetness of olibanum and honey notes as the fragrance transitions to the warm drydown, with softly spicy tobacco and woods finishing it.

It’s been discontinued but can still be found in some stores and online. Released in 2018, Tom Ford Fougère d’Argent EDP is also worth checking out.

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

You naughty boy! Oops, Tom Ford did it again with this 2018 release and its suggestive lost virginity name. Of course, he would never put it in such crass terms.

The intro of the 2018 release bursts with boozy black cherries enhanced with the bittersweet nuttiness of almond. The sweetness kicks in with the fruit of plum, rose and jasmine sambac notes. There’s a lot happening in the complex drydown but I can detect smooth vanilla and amber-y Peru balsam in the mix.

I can’t get enough of this gourmand with clever contrasts for grown-ups .

Image: Tom Ford.

TOM FORD OMBRÉ LEATHER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Part of the Private Blend launch collection in 2007, Tuscan Leather EDP gave Tom Ford major cred in the perfume world and is a standard-bearer in the genre. In 2018, Ombré Leather (originally launched under the Private Blend Collection in 2016) confirmed the brand’s expertise in the category.

It gets going with the warm spice of cardamom. The leather is animalic in all the best ways – sensual and textured – and is given a floral dimension through the intriguing use of jasmine sambac. There’s great depth of the earthy and smoky kind, thanks to notes of vetiver, patchouli and moss, in the drydown.

Also get your nose on the powderier Ombré Leather Parfum, which was released in 2021.

TOM FORD LAVENDER EXTRÊME EDP (OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

Want a big and bold lavender fragrance? Then introduce yourself to this 2019 release.

There’s a good chance you won’t notice the opening notes of lemon and violet leaf, as this EDP lays on the lavender with speed. It’s fresh, clean and aromatic, as expected, but also coolly metallic. It then gets sweeter and warmer as cinnamon is added to the mix. The spice sets the tone for the drydown, featuring an abundance of vanilla and tonka bean. Smooth, creamy and musky, they complete the composition.

A comforting and chic option.

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID PARFUM

The original EDP was released in 2006. Apart from becoming one of the best-sellers of that decade, it’s also responsible for tempting men over to the dark side of so-called “female fragrances” with its pure deliciousness. The unisex parfum version was released in 2020 and while not as busy as the original, it’s just as seductive.

It makes a gorgeously decadent statement from the start with a large helping of truffles – animalic and musky. Juicy plum brings a touch of fruity sweetness. A combo of rich boozy rum and tropical florals – ylang-ylang and orchid – leads the way to the earthy patchouli drydown.

It’s been hyped to the max but justifiably so.

TOM FORD BEAU DE JOUR EDP

Originally released in 2019 as part of the Private Blend Collection, this was re-released in 2020 under the Signature Collection, making this beauty more affordable and an even more essential addition to your fragrance wardrobe.

It starts out aromatic and fresh with an overdose of lavender. The sharpness of moss and floral greenery of geranium add a layer of complexity to the composition, with hints of mint and basil in the background. It goes deeper with musky-licious patchouli and an amber accord in the drydown.

Elegance personified and with heaps of character, if this doesn’t make you feel like a dapper gentleman nothing will.

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

Let’s put aside the name, shall we? And savour this 2020 release that’s apparently inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden. You’re not the only one trying to picture it.

It’s all earthy spiciness in the opening, with notes of black pepper and turmeric. Three varieties of rose – May, Turkish, Bulgarian – display the queen of florals at her most voluptuous and diverse. Rose-patchouli is a popular combo and the herb gives this scent a dirty, musky edge.

Not as wild as its name suggests (where are the prickly thorns?), it’s nevertheless beautiful stuff.

TOM FORD COSTA AZZURRA EDP

In the rarefied world of Tom Ford, there seem to be two recurring motifs: the glamorous red carpet and care-free European coasts. A whole sub-range of Private Blend has already been devoted to the pleasures of Amalfi and Positano in Italy.

In 2021, Costa Azzurra migrated from the Private Blend Collection to the Signature range.

It’s a classy aquatic scent that evokes the French Riviera from the outset with aromatic notes of driftwood and seaweed infused with the freshness of lemon, mandarin and lavender.

Woody notes of cypress and oak give depth to the olfactory reverie.

TOM FORD SOLEIL BRÛLANT EDP

This 2021 release feels like a posh vacay in the sun from start to finish. At the price, I wouldn’t expect anything less.

The summer mood begins in familiar fresh and spicy territory, with soft notes of pink peppercorn, mandarin and bergamot. There’s then the sweet ’n sunny heat from notes of honey and orange blossom absolute. It’s in the drydown that this scent really comes into its own. An amber accord mingles with spicy resins, while the seductive smoke of incense is accentuated by vetiver. A hint of leather adds to the pleasure-seeking ambience.

The burnt vibe of this EDP won’t appeal to everyone, so definitely try before you buy.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Soleil Brûlant EDP 2

CHOICES: Soleil Brûlant and Beau de Jour are my personal favourites in this best recent Tom Ford releases post.

TOM FORD ÉBÈNE FUMÉ EDP

I’ll forgive Tom Ford for sounding like Gwyneth Paltrow in the description for this fragrance on the brand’s website – “mindfulness meets opulence” – because this most recent addition to the TF empire is beautifully rich.

The fresh pine-ish smoke of palo santo (“holy wood” in Spanish) stands out in the opening. This wild tree that’s native to South America is burnt as incense sticks to promote emotional and spiritual purity. A leather accord is emphasised by notes of papyrus, labdanum and cade oil. The drydown is darker and resinous in character, with ebony and guaiac wood working their charms.

If you’re looking for a powerful combo of woods, leather and smoke, get your hands on this one pronto. If it makes you feel calmer at the same time, bonus.

All these best recent Tom Ford releases are available in South Africa at Woolworths.

All pics in this best recent Tom Ford releases post mine, unless stated otherwise.

December 10, 2021

Jérôme Epinette Interview: “I’m Obsessed With Woods, So You Will Find Them In Almost All My Creations

The numerous awards Jérôme Epinette has earned in recent years speak volumes about his creative and technical expertise. These include Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year for Atelier Cologne Café Tuberosa at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2018 and Fragrance of the Year – Universal Luxury for Byredo Tobacco Mandarin at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2021.

Jérôme Epinette - Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa

Image: Atelier Cologne.

Industry accolades aside, you’ll probably know him for his quality work for a variety of designer, niche and celebrity brands, including:

Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP (2009)
Nest Midnight Fleur EDP (2012)
Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin Cologne Absolue (2014)
Frapin The Orchid Man EDP (2015)
Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly EDP (2015)
Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP (2016)
Floral Street Black Lotus EDP (2017)
Olfactive Studio Flash Back In New York EDP (2018)
Zara Vibrant Leather EDP (2018)
Commodity Velvet EDP (2018)
Ariana Grande Thank U, Next EDP (2019)
Guess Seductive Noir Homme EDT (2019)

Born and raised in Burgundy, France, Jérôme Epinette joined the French fragrance and flavour company Robertet in 2003 after completing his studies, which included a Master’s in Biochemistry.

His creations for Swedish niche brand Byredo established his perfumer credentials, with other companies quickly lining up to get a piece of his distinctive magic.

Now based in New York City, the 46-year-old speaks to Fragoom about where it all started, his love of woods and working with Ariana Grande.

WHO OR WHAT PLANTED YOUR PASSION FOR PERFUMERY?

My mom, who owned perfumes stores in Burgundy when I was young. It gave me her passion for them and allowed me to discover the world of perfumes.

YOU STUDIED AT THE GRASSE INSTITUTE OF PERFUMERY. WITH HINDSIGHT, WHAT ONE THING DO YOU DO YOU WISH THEY HAD TAUGHT YOU THAT YOU HAD TO LEARN FOR YOURSELF?

I had everything I needed to start there, from discovering and remembering a lot of synthetic and natural ingredients, to visiting fields and factories to understand the harvests and the technology behind them. Experience follows when you join a company.

Jérôme Epinette - Guess Seductive Noir Homme EDT

Image: Guess.

TELL US ABOUT THE FIRST FRAGRANCE YOU CREATED AS A PROFESSIONAL PERFUMER AND YOUR THOUGHTS ON IT NOW.

I created Montblanc Femme Individuelle EDT the first year I joined Robertet [2004]. Michel Almairac, my mentor, helped me realise this first fragrance. It is still relevant, as it was a gourmand chypre, a very popular family as of right now.

Jérôme Epinette - Montblanc Femme Individuelle EDT

Image: Montblanc.

YOU’RE VP FINE FRAGRANCE PERFUMER AT ROBERTET. WHAT DOES IT INVOLVE?

It’s a more global role, making sure all the perfumers have access to internal and external resources. I am now more involved in new processes on naturals ingredients.

IS THERE A DISTINCTIVE JÉRÔME EPINETTE STYLE? OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE CLIENT BRIEF?

Every single perfumer has their own signature, and it comes from the ingredients they love to use. I am obsessed with woods, so you will find them in almost all my creations.

YOU’VE CREATED SEVERAL FRAGRANCES FOR BRANDS SUCH AS ATELIER COLOGNE, BYREDO, VILHELM PARFUMERIE AND ZARA. IS THAT HOW YOU PREFER TO WORK?

For Zara, creating several fragrances for the company makes it easy to understand each new project.

For niche brands, I enjoy collaborating with those clients very much, because there is a close connection between myself and the owners of the houses. I feel I am part of the brand and that motivates me to come up with something unique.

Jérôme Epinette - Zara Vibrant Leather EDP

Image: Zara.

HOW DID YOU WORK WITH ARIANE GRANDE TO CREATE THANK U, NEXT AND GOD IS A WOMAN?

As soon as I started working closely with her, you know more about what she likes and what could be relevant for her and her brand.

We had specific ideas that we presented to her through luxe brands. She is passionate about perfumes and incredibly involved in the creative process so as soon as she loves something or sees the potential, she will go for it.

Jérôme Epinette - Ariana Grande Thank U, Next EDP

Image: Ariana Grande Fragrances.

CONGRATS ON YOUR RECENT FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION UK AWARD FOR FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM (BEST INDEPENDENT FRAGRANCE). WHAT MADE THAT PROJECT DIFFERENT FROM OTHERS?

Every project is different. Michelle Feeney, Floral Street owner, had a specific idea and presented it to me. That close collaboration eased the creating process and we produced a more gender-neutral scent.

WHAT PROJECT HAVE YOU JUST COMPLETED THAT YOU CAN SHARE WITH US?

Byredo Mumabi Noise EDP.

APPARENTLY, YOU CONSIDERED A CAREER IN WINE. IS THAT SOMETHING YOU STILL FIND TIME TO ENJOY?

Yes, every summer I spend time in France testing and collecting wines.

Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

December 3, 2021

Acqua di Parma: The Best Fragrances From The Always-Elegant Italian Brand

From its founding in 1916 in Parma by Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma fragrances have been identifiable with all things elegantly and luxuriously Italian. Founder Signor Magnani (pictured, below) set the stylish tone by spraying a handkerchief with his debut fragrance Colonia and then slipping it into his pocket. It doesn’t get more “la dolce vita” than that.

Image: Acqua di Parma.

It wasn’t always sunny skies. Although admired by Hollywood stars such as Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn, the company had to be rescued by prominent Italian businessmen Diego Della Valle (Tod’s), Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (Ferrari) and Paolo Borgomanero (La Perla) in the 1990s.

“The fragrance lines mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme.”

Now part of the LVMH luxury group, Acqua di Parma is a thriving business with fragrance, bath, body, candle and barber ranges. The fragrance lines – Colonia, Blu Mediterraneo, Signatures of the Sun, Le Nobili and Note di Colonia – mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme. All are infused with the brand’s classic and chic style.

There’s more to the luxury brand than Colonia. From this all-time classic to lesser-known releases, I take you through this quintessential Italian company. My only complaint about this remarkably consistent brand is that it often doesn’t divulge its perfumers.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia is still one of the best sophisticated fragrances on the market. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.

It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.

An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO MANDORLO DI SICILIA EDT

A gourmand-ish Acqua di Parma? And before I get carried away with myself, this is not a full-on gourmand as we know it, or even as my nose experiences it. After all, the Italian brand that’s known for its timeless scents wouldn’t indulge in such styles in a tacky manner.

Launched in 1999 and from the always-rewarding Blu Mediterraneo range, Mandorlo di Sicilia celebrates the Sicilian way of life.

Of course, it opens with sunny, citrus-centric notes, but in a subtler style than usual, while star anise introduces the “edible” factor. This EDT is headlined by softly sweet green almonds, and ylang-ylang brings floral fruitiness. The other big character in this composition is vanilla. Only the best Madagascan creaminess is partnered with musk in the drydown.

It’s all done in seemingly effortless ADP style. Superba!

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2005 release must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from the Blu Mediterraneo Collection. Some might even call it “challenging”.

An Italian take on the fougère, it opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed.

Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted and evocative celebration of Tuscany.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2010 and billed as a modern interpretation of the classic original, Essenza isn’t a radical reworking, but rather a case of different emphases.

Neroli and grapefruit are more pronounced in the opening, and the aromatic aspect has been toned down slightly. This version feels fuller than the original while losing none of its uplifting freshness.

It’s seriously good stuff. Many of its fans think it’s even better than its illustrious ancestor.

ACQUA DI PARMA OUD EDP

This intriguing scent, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud, was originally launched in 2012 as Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée in the Ingredient Collection. It’s now part of the Signatures of the Sun Collection.

The citrus notes of bergamot and orange are followed quickly by the oud. Warm, sensual and smooth, it’s a refined take on the theme. It’s complemented by a strong and silky leather accord. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch. The base adds to the feeling of warmth, with the notes of cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood in perfect harmony.

You might think the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess, but if you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, this is the ideal choice. Leather, from the same collection, is also superb.

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA CLUB EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2015, Club is the most barbershop-ish of all the Colonia flankers so far.

There’s plenty of sunny citrus in the opening, including bergamot, neroli and Sicilian lemon notes. But what really stands out is the mint. Cool and fresh, it gives this scent a green profile.

A note of galbanum brings pleasing sharpness to the mix, while lavender and vetiver keep it green and clean.

ACQUA DI PARMA PEONIA NOBILE EDP

I wouldn’t have said peony is one of my favourite notes. Until I came across Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile. It’s from the brand’s Le Nobili Collection, which also includes highly recommended Rose and Magnolia perfumes.

Launched in 2016, it opens with the fruity rosiness of raspberry spiced with black pepper. It’s unusual for an ADP not to open with citrus notes. But there’s lots of freshness to go around in the form of peony, Turkish rose and freesia notes. Clean musk and an amber accord complete this floral-fantastic scent that’s sweet in a sophisticated way.

Look out for Iris Nobile EDP, which was unfortunately discontinued.

ACQUA DI PARMA NOTE DI COLONIA I EAU DE COLOGNE

This 2016 release is from the lesser-known Note di Colonia range, which is inspired by various Italian operas.

A celebration of Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata opera, it starts off in recognisable Acqua di Parma territory with citrus notes of bergamot and neroli. Florals come through next, with notes of damask rose and violet bringing powderiness, while lavender adds a touch of aromatic appeal. Classic woodiness is provided by the notes of cedar and patchouli in the drydown. There’s a slight bitterness throughout this scent, which gives it complexity.

Yes, it’s more expensive than the average Acqua di Parma, but the quality is top-notch, plus it comes in a 150ml bottle.

ACQUA DI PARMA VANIGLIA EDP

Vanilla fragrances are all too often icky-sweet, reminding one of cheap candles. But Acqua di Parma Vaniglia (from the Signatures of the Sun Collection) is not your ordinary vanilla scent.

This 2019 EDP opens with the warmth of citrus notes, in particular bergamot, mandarin and neroli. They are given a light and airy treatment. The floral heliotrope brings a nutty quality.

The vanilla makes itself known early in the fragrance’s progression. The best variety from Madagascar has clearly been used. It’s creamy and dreamy. There’s a slight hint of jasmine sambac too, which adds to the soft sweetness. Notes of cedarwood and musk in the drydown conclude a deliciously suave experience.

ACQUA DI PARMA QUERCIA EDP

Acqua di Parma does some of the best citrus openings in the biz. That’s been a given since its founding in 1916 with Colonia. So Quercia might be a surprise to those who associate the brand only with sunny Italian skies.

Sure, this 2019 EDP begins in typically bright mode, with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain. It starts to change with the appearance of the spice of pink pepper and cardamom notes. And then takes on a darker character that’s true to its inspiration of walking through an oak-tree forest (“quercia” = oak tree in Italian).

Notes of oakmoss, cedar and patchouli create a suitably damp, earthy and woody feel in the drydown.

ACQUA DI PARMA OSMANTHUS EDP

Launched in 2019, this EDP is fabulously floral and unisex at the same time. Promise.

Slightly bitter neroli meets sweet green mandarin in the intro. Both have honeyed citrus undertones. Peony maintains the freshness, while silky ambrette gives it a natural musky vibe. Pink pepper, with a hint of rosiness, accentuates the floral vibe in a fresh and spicy way.

The osmanthus is richly fruity, with milky accents of apricot and peach. Its sensual character is complemented by a tinge of earthy patchouli, without becoming unbearably sweet.

Acqua di Parma fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics and Woolworths.

November 20, 2021

Simple Pleasures: The Best Uncomplicated Fragrances

Who says perfumes must be complex to be good? The best uncomplicated fragrances rely on simple compositions in which it’s possible to pick up most of the listed notes.

This doesn’t mean there’s less technical and creative expertise involved in producing these uncomplicated fragrances. If anything, it takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.

“It takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.”

SIMPLE ENOUGH: French brand Berdoues is particularly good at uncomplicated fragrances.

Here’s my selection of the best uncomplicated fragrances. The perfect antidote to our over-stimulated times.

Do you have any favourite uncomplicated fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE LE PARFUM EDP INTENSE (QUENTIN BISCH & NATHALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Launched in 1995, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. 50+ flankers and limited editions later, Le Male Le Parfum was released in 2020 to celebrate its 25^th anniversary. More streamlined than the original, one might even call him mature.

This EDP (the parfum bit must be for marketing purposes) opens with the sweet spice of cardamom. Aromatic lavender is given a powdery vibe thanks to iris, while vanilla cosies up with woody notes in the drydown.

Staying true to the original with its prominent accents of lavender and vanilla, it’s very likeable in a warm and sensual oriental style.

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE **COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)**

Frédéric Malle describes Cologne Indélébile as “erotic naiveté”. Only the French could get away with such language. What I do know is that this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house makes me feel incredibly calm and refreshed.

Opening all fresh, citrusy and green with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain, it isn’t a reinvention of the classic cologne format. There’s no need for that. The florals of orange blossom and narcissus maintain the crisp feel, while tempering the initial sharpness.

Colognes are often things of fleeting beauty, but an overdose of white musk gives this one more oomph than usual. It also gives this beauty a chic cleanness.

BERDOUES VÂNIRA MOOREA EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

Something simple? Something a bit exotic? Something that will make you want to smell yourself? Repeatedly. This 2016 release from the Grasse-based company’s travel-inspired Grands Crus Collection will satisfy these needs. And more.

Featuring fresh citrus notes of petitgrain and orange, the opening will draw you in immediately. It’s a bright and sunny island mood (even if you’re stuck behind your PC), with green aspects. And then there’s the vanilla from Moorea, an island near Tahiti. It’s smooth, creamy and tropical, without being too sticky sweet. Delicious stuff!

I also recommend other simple pleasures from this brand, such as Maasaï Mara and Selva do Brazil.

HERMÈS UN JARDIN SUR LA LAGUNE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’m all for fragrances that take me to special places in these Covid-limiting times. And Hermès Un Jardin Sur La Lagune does that in understated style.

For the most recent addition to the Gardens Collection (2019), the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel took inspiration from a secret garden in a Venice lagoon.

Its white florals (magnolia, lily and pittosporum) have a subtly sweet scent. In the background there’s a marine accord, with a soupçon of salt, adding to the freshness. Settling on a woody base, this unisex EDT is relaxing and dreamy. Couldn’t ask for more right now.

**DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE**)

Diptyque excels at perfumes that smell wonderfully natural. And this 1988 release is a prime example. It takes its inspiration from the lush smells emanating from Venetian gardens during summer evenings.

That mood begins in opulent style with notes of narcissus and honeysuckle. It’s floral, but with green accents. The fresh floral theme continues with notes of wisteria and jasmine, without tipping into unbearable sweetness.

It’s an olfactory invite to get lost in it all and with a perfume this good, how could you refuse?

**PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)**

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families.

The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan. In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

I also rate Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George from the same range.

HUGO BOSS HUGO REVERSED EDT

Hugo Boss fragrances have been about zesty freshness since the launch of the original in 1995, and this 2018 release fits the pattern.

Probably the best flanker from the range, it opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a hint of clean vetiver.

This no-frills, but surprisingly versatile scent is primarily aimed at young men but is too good not to try for yourself if you’re from an older demographic. Points for the graphic flacon too.

Image: Hugo Boss.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE THIS IS LOVE! FOR HIM EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

I’ve had a soft spot for Zadig & Voltaire releases for quite some time and can’t recommend them enough for their terrific value. This 2020 release affirms why the French rock-chic fashion label gets it right.

Fresh bergamot opens this EDT. It’s followed by a note of sunshine-kissed orange blossom. But it’s the big dose of warm and creamy sandalwood in the drydown that wraps up this creation rather nicely.

It’s as deceptively simple as 1, 2 , 3, but oh so effective and sensual.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron. A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental ambience.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

**ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)**

I’m always keen to try Escentric Molecules fragrances to learn more about the chemistry of perfumery. Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 showcases the aroma-molecule Cashmeran (also known as cashmere wood or blond woods).

This synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least. It can be found in everything from Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras to Maison Martin Margiela By The Fireplace. With its musky and woody qualities, there’s a good reason why it’s such an essential part of any perfumer’s toolkit. On its own in this 2020 release, there’s lots of dry cosiness, with a gentle sweetness.

Thanks for the lesson, Mr Schoen. Fascinating, as always.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The latest addition (2020) to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet to the vegan formula, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

Esteemed French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian can always be relied upon to produce elegant, timeless scents. This year, he released cologne forte (strong) versions of the best-selling unisex Aqua range: Universalis, Celestia and Vitae.

All three are worth sniffing out, but Aqua Celestia Cologne Forte (pictured below, right) stands out with its seeming effortlessness.

The opening is on the tart side, with the citrus hues of bergamot at the fore. But not for long, as the fruitiness of blackcurrant, mimosa and jasmine notes come into play. The fruitiness continues through to the musky and powdery drydown.

*These best uncomplicated fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

November 13, 2021

One Way Bridge Perfumes: An Interview With Founder Elise Welraven – “I Literally Bottle All My Feelings”

Image: One Way Bridge Perfumes.

For all its faults, Instagram is an unrivalled way to connect with perfumer lovers and creators around the world. It’s how I first came to know Elise Welraven (pictured, below), founder of One Way Bridge Perfumes.

Image: Courtesy of Elise Welraven.

When we first started following each other, we both shared our love of perfumes and she hadn’t set up her company yet. It was a wonderful surprise when she sent me samples of her launch fragrances. Partly, because the South African postal system is notoriously slow and theft-prone, but mostly because her quality extraits are so rich and unique.

In this interview, Elise describes her creations as “brutal”. At first, I thought that was a strange way to describe them. But having revisited them recently, I know what she means now. They’re unfiltered, unrefined, rough around the edges and highly expressive.

Please refresh my memory: when did we start communicating via IG? I remember your farm home renovation pics from your personal account.

We started following each other on Instagram at the end of 2017. I hadn’t launched One Way Bridge yet and you would have known me on my personal account which no longer exists.

Let’s get the obvious question out of the way: what’s the significance of the name of your company, One Way Bridge?

I wanted to name it something really “Kiwiana”. In New Zealand we are known for our silly one-lane bridges where, of course, only one car can go one way at a time. On a personal level, life should be lived like a one-way bridge: no matter what happens, you need to find a way to keep going forward.

All Other Images: One Way Bridge Perfumes.

Your approach, from the design of the bottles to the names and moods of your fragrances, is refreshingly different. Why does the vintage aesthetic appeal so much to you?

Vintage speaks to my soul. There’s a lot of depth to vintage. The people from back then were so passionate, so intense. That’s how life should be lived, as you can tell from the brutality of my fragrances.

“That’s how life should be lived, as you can tell from the brutality of my fragrances.”

Is your New Zealand background also an important part of your approach?

Very much so. There are so many beautiful native ingredients we have here, which no one else has access to. I feel so privileged to be able to showcase them in my art.

How’s business been since launch? Is it your sole focus?

Business was going amazingly well and then Covid hit. I was able to get my perfumes around the world through travel. Unfortunately, now, that isn’t an option.

NATIVE: One of the ingredients in One Way Bridge Perfumes is totara extract, from the tree endemic to New Zealand.

One Way Bridge has officially become my sole focus. Going in and out of lockdowns has made it hard to keep a job. Seeing as the demand was there for my art, I figured the easiest way to avoid all of that was to work for myself.

Can you keep up with the demand?

It is currently a bit harder to keep up with demand, as the shipping from certain destinations for certain ingredients has been significantly delayed due to Covid. So it has taken longer to produce a batch.

Moving on to the more technical and creative aspects: did you study perfumery, or are you self-taught?

I am completely self-taught, with 16 years of self-learning to get me to where I am today.

I know there are people that disapprove and say you can’t really call yourself a perfumer if you haven’t had formal training. And that’s okay with me. My perfume is my art – straight from my heart and soul. I’ve learned my own style and I like that I can perfume without boundaries.

“My perfume is straight from my heart and soul. I’ve learned my own style and I like that I can perfume without boundaries.”

How would you describe yourself as a perfumer?

This is a hard question. It’s a bit like when you first meet someone and they say, “So tell me about yourself.” If I had to answer that in one word, it would be emotional. I literally bottle my feelings.

From reading the stories behind the fragrances and wearing them, it seems you’re using quite expensive and/or exotic ingredients (some of them unique to New Zealand, for example Kumerahou, Totara and ambergris)….

I do – I never skimp on ingredients. I don’t care how much it costs me. Once I have inspiration, the piece of art must be created.

GOLD: Amber kauri resin, one of the precious ingredients used by Elise Welraven.

Top Shelf is potent stuff in a very animalic way. It almost has a dirty, urinary aspect to it, and I mean that in a good way…

Top Shelf is my classy cowboy. A hunk with a dirty edge, addictive.

Stout ‘n’ Smoke is superb. How did you go about creating it?

I wanted to bottle a barmaid’s kiss after a shot of whiskey, the patron’s tobacco smoke and her own lipstick. I love whiskey and I wanted to create a boozy scent that wasn’t sweet like all the rest out there.

Does inspiration come easily to you?

I will say yes, because inspiration is based on my feelings, emotions and imagination.

What are you working on now?

I recently launched a new scent called Wildjoy, inspired by the forest on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The notes are kauri and cannabis.

On the day of launch, I also announced something I’ve been working on for two years: a 60ml Solid State Extrait de Parfum eco line. This is created using a base of all-natural New Zealand oils and plant waxes and my fragrance oils. It comes packaged in a 100% recyclable cardboard push-up tube, sealed with a recyclable label. The entire product is waste free, recyclable, kind to skin and convenient for travel. Solid perfumes last longer as they contain no ingredients that evaporate.

It truly is New Zealand goodness at its best and I like to think the way I’ve been able to present it as “eco” or “green beauty” makes it “perfume re-imagined and refashioned”.

Visit the One Way Bridge website here.

Read my thoughts on the One Way Bridge samples I received on my Instagram page.

BYREDO GYPSY WATER EDP

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

BYREDO LA TULIPE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

BYREDO OUD IMMORTEL EDP

BYREDO BLACK SAFFRON EDP

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP

BYREDO BIBLIOTHÈQUE EDP

BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

BYREDO SLOW DANCE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

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DESPITE THE INDUSTRY’S OBFUSCATION, MODERN PERFUMERY IS VERY MUCH ABOUT WHAT GOES ON IN THE LAB.

JUST BECAUSE IT’S POPULAR DOESN’T MEAN IT WILL STAY IN PRODUCTION.

IF THERE’S MONEY TO BE MADE, EXPECT LOTS OF FLANKERS.

NICHE ISN’T IMMUNE TO THE LAWS OF PERFUMERY.

PERFUMERY ISN’T FOR PURISTS.

JUST BECAUSE IT’S POPULAR DOESN’T MEAN IT’S RUBBISH (OR WHAT GOES UP MUST BE PULLED DOWN)

PERFUME IS ALSO A VISUAL MEDIUM.

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What’s your designation at the company and what does it involve?

Condolences for your mother’s death last year. Have you taken on more responsibilities since her passing?

The company was originally founded by couturier Paul Poiret. What made it such an attractive investment?

Reviving a brand isn’t easy, even one with such an illustrious heritage. What were the greatest challenges at the time of acquisition?

How do you maintain the balance between respect for heritage and contemporary innovation?

All Les Parfums de Rosine perfumes have a rose theme. Is that ever limiting for the perfumers you collaborate with?

Let’s talk about your latest release, Bulle de Rose, created by Serge de Oliviera. What makes it different from other perfumes from the brand?

Serge de Oliveira has created a number of fragrances for the brand. Why do you enjoy working with him?

How you prefer to work with your perfumers? Are they given a tight brief? Or is there lots of room for interpretation?

What can we look forward to in 2022 from Les Parfums de Rosine?

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You worked at your father’s fragrance and flavour factory as a young man. How did that prepare you for the world of perfumery? Was it a given that you’d become a perfumer?

Where did you study? And what do you value most from that experience?

What was your first perfume and how does it reflect your style?

How do you prepare for a perfume project?

Even with all your experience, what aspect of perfumery do you struggle with most?

Tell us about a Firmenich captive molecule you’re particularly excited about and how you’ve used it in one of your recent creations.

Did your Greek heritage help in the creation of Nishane Ege Aigaio Extrait de Parfum, which is inspired by summer holidays on the Aegean Sea?

I see from your Instagram you’ve recently finished working on the relaunch of Kylie Minogue Darling. How is this one different from the Thierry Wasser original from 2006? What can you tell us about the star’s perfume preferences?

You have lots of experience with Brazilian and Middle Eastern clients. What are the key developments in these major markets?

What gets you through a particularly stressful project?

How do you celebrate your successes?

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How did this book project come about? Please give us some background.

What makes your book different from the others on the market?

How did the two of you work together to produce it?

When it came to the crunch, how did you decide which perfumes to include and exclude?

The world of perfumery is filled with myths, half-truths and damn creative lies. How can it be simplified for those who don’t have as much experience as the two of you?

What are the biggest mistakes people make when shopping for fragrances? What advice would you give them?

I love that you’ve included great cheapies (Avon, Lynx, Impulse, Jovan Musk) and celebrity fragrances (Sarah Jessica Parker, Elizabeth Taylor) among the more upmarket designer and niche offerings. Why was that important to you?

You give a fair amount of attention to the role of synthetics. Should the industry be doing more to educate consumers on why these are essential to modern perfumery?

Are you planning another book already?

Where can The Perfume Companion be ordered from?

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TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

TOM FORD FOUGÈRE PLATINE EDP (LINDA SONG & OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

TOM FORD OMBRÉ LEATHER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

TOM FORD LAVENDER EXTRÊME EDP (OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID PARFUM

TOM FORD BEAU DE JOUR EDP

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

TOM FORD COSTA AZZURRA EDP

TOM FORD SOLEIL BRÛLANT EDP

TOM FORD ÉBÈNE FUMÉ EDP

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WHO OR WHAT PLANTED YOUR PASSION FOR PERFUMERY?

YOU STUDIED AT THE GRASSE INSTITUTE OF PERFUMERY. WITH HINDSIGHT, WHAT ONE THING DO YOU DO YOU WISH THEY HAD TAUGHT YOU THAT YOU HAD TO LEARN FOR YOURSELF?

TELL US ABOUT THE FIRST FRAGRANCE YOU CREATED AS A PROFESSIONAL PERFUMER AND YOUR THOUGHTS ON IT NOW.

YOU’RE VP FINE FRAGRANCE PERFUMER AT ROBERTET. WHAT DOES IT INVOLVE?

IS THERE A DISTINCTIVE JÉRÔME EPINETTE STYLE? OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE CLIENT BRIEF?

YOU’VE CREATED SEVERAL FRAGRANCES FOR BRANDS SUCH AS ATELIER COLOGNE, BYREDO, VILHELM PARFUMERIE AND ZARA. IS THAT HOW YOU PREFER TO WORK?

HOW DID YOU WORK WITH ARIANE GRANDE TO CREATE THANK U, NEXT AND GOD IS A WOMAN?

**Where can The Perfume Companion be ordered from?**

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE **COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)**

**DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE**)

**PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)**

**ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)**

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**