FRAGRANCE Archives - Page 6 of 22

July 26, 2022July 26, 2022

Interview With Steyn Grobler, Founder of Aqualis: “I’ve Learned To Be Very Collaborative With People”

I love discovering brands that have something different to offer. Even better if they have a South African connection. Both of which Aqualis has in abundance. The London-based niche company was founded by Steyn Grobler in 2015 (he left the country at the age of 15).

BEHIND THE SCREENS: Steyn Grobler getting ready for his presentation at the Skins Cosmetics store in Johannesburg.

The 36-year-old has put his master’s in business economics and luxury perfumes experience – including head of production and business development at Boadicea The Victorious and sales director for Ex Nihilo – to effective use.

Steyn Grobler was in South Africa in February to promote Aqualis at the various Skins Cosmetics stores. We didn’t get a chance to chat properly then, so did the Zoom thing a few months later in which we covered everything from niche inspiration to his DIY ethos.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m wearing a fragrance that I’m testing. Generally, when I’m wearing a fragrance it’s something that’s been made for me.

It’s got this blackcurrant and bergamot top note, then this incredibly beautiful amber, patchouli base. It’s not quite ready yet. It hasn’t got the depth and character it needs in the base. So I’m going to be briefing the perfumer later today to give him my feedback.

If your question is what kind of perfumes I like to wear… I’m a big lover of gourmands, fresh fragrances and heavy ambers. Hate fougères. Just can’t gel with them. Floral fragrances are something to be appreciated but, yeah, not something I would wear.

Over the course of my wearing life, I’ve worn everything from cK One and Boss in Motion, then upgraded to niche brands like Roja Dove and Byredo. So stuff across the spectrum.

IMAGE: Calvin Klein.

Are those tastes reflected in the perfumes for Aqualis?

Definitely! I must really love what I put forward. Particularly when it comes to the florals, which might not be something I wear personally. That’s the kind of thing I will give to other people to smell and to smell on them. If I love it on someone else, then I will move forward with it.

There’s nothing in my collection that I haven’t extensively tested and pondered over for an incredibly long time. It’s always very well measured and tested by the time it goes to market.

WORK OF ART: A shot of bergamot freshness in Aqualis Canvas Parfum leads the way to a bouquet of powdery prettiness (notes of freesia, iris, mimosa, rose), with wafts of white musk keeping it sensual and sophisticated. Created by Amandine Galliano.

How have you ensured Aqualis stands out in such a busy niche market?

There’s this super-luxury end where prices are over £400 pounds for a 50ml bottle. So I felt there was a gap for a premium product that’s not outrageously priced out of the market. The brand sits very neatly in its own little niche in the niche industry. Very few other people are doing 30% concentrations of the best quality ingredients at that price point.

Which niche brands inspire you?

I’m always looking at other brands. Thibaud Crivelli is doing a great job with Maison Crivelli. He’s got this great attention to detail from the blotters to creating a feeling around a fragrance. Which is what I try to do, as well, I just don’t have his budget [laughs].

At the high end, Henry Jacques is an incredibly company. One which I had the pleasure of working for briefly. The quality is unmatched, their own perfumers, sourcing all their own ingredients…

IMAGE: Henry Jacques.

Sergio Momo of Xerjoff works with brilliant perfumers, such beautiful design. Those three companies I look at, not to copy, but you feel inspired naturally by them.

How many people are in your company?

Me. And my girlfriend Chloe. That’s it. I manage all the production, finance, international retailers, new product development… basically, manage all the company. Chloe manages the Harrods account and the social media and communications. But we’re really punching above our weight for what we are and do.

“We’re really punching above our weight for what we are and do.” – Steyn Grobler

OLFACTORY IDEAL: A rush of fresh blood orange gives way to the fruity nuances of apricot, osmanthus, pink peppercorn and rose in Aqualis Utopia Parfum. Not your average screechingly sweet fruity-floral, hallelujah. Created by Jean-Charles Mignon.

The Harrods deal is a huge coup. How did that come about?

Working with Ex Nihilo, I built up a direct relationship with them over a long time. It took three years for Harrods to accept the brand.

When you show big results over your career – for example, with Ex Nihilo and Boadicea – it gives them the confidence to launch the product. Huge investment also went into the actual presentation to them, which looked stunning.

And then there’s what you do there to grow it. It almost becomes a HR exercise. What sales staff do you employ, how do you strategise, but that’s also the fun part.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

What’s been your hardest (and most valuable) business lesson so far?

[Laughs] There’s a whole graveyard of lessons. No, the biggest thing is don’t burn bridges and work with people in the long term. As a younger guy and being South African, I might have been too stern and forward with my words and thinking, so I’ve learned to be very collaborative with people.

Steyn Grobler - Aqualis Namaqualand Parfum

BIRTHDAY BLOOMS: Inspired by the semi-desert region in South Africa which explodes with blooming wild flowers in July and August, Aqualis Namaqualand Parfum is big on the florals in a rather lovely way. Jasmine sambac, tuberose and ylang-ylang are all given their place in the African sun. Created by Florian Gallo.

Talking about your South African background, your heritage is proving to be a rich source of material. Was that intentional, or did it kind of happen along the way?

Each of them means something to me. Namaqualand blooms round about the time of my birthday. Kalahari is where my mum is from. Brenton is where my parents live now. Kruger [the president of the Transvaal in the 19th century] was my great, great grandfather. I didn’t set out wanting to make a South African brand, but these are such inspiring places.

GOLD STANDARD: A double dose of the queen of florals in the form of rose oil and rose absolute (both from Turkey) is complemented by the soft leathery tones of saffron and papyrus in Aqualis Kruger Parfum. Cosy and chic. Created by Jean-Charles Mignon.

How do you brief your perfumers?

It’s quite different every time, but there are certain things that are consistent throughout my briefs: the highest concentration, no budgetary constraints on raw materials, which the perfumers love. It’s also important for them to have artistic freedom.

The briefs include what kind of person I envisage wearing it and what’s on the market already. They can’t be copies. I have this library [of references] in my head. You need a lot of knowledge about what’s going on in the industry.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

You mentioned Egoli when you were here in February. Tell us about that.

Egoli [the Zulu word for Johannesburg] is the place of gold and oud is liquid gold. I really wanted to use the notion of Johannesburg as a city built entirely on gold and now it’s a huge metropolis with Pretoria around it. And of course, I grew up around there.

It’s a unique take on oud in a parfum concentration, created by Chris Maurice who also did a lot of the Xerjoff fragrances. Unlike a lot of the big perfume conglomerates, he has a regular supply of the best oud in Laos.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

“I’m a bit of a purist in that way and wanted real oud, not accords or synthetic oud, to be used.” – Steyn Grobler

I’m a bit of a purist in that way and wanted real oud, not accords or synthetic oud, to be used. It’s stunning, with acidity, soft freshness from the bergamot note and this animalic musk-civet note.

REAL DEAL: Chris Maurice collaborated with Steyn Grobler to create Aqualis Egoli Parfum.

A brand is always a work in progress. What do you want to improve on Aqualis?

I started off with 50ml bottles, the concept that the strongest poisons come in the tiniest bottles, but there’s huge demand for 100ml bottles, so I’m working with an award-winning architect to create a shape for the 100ml. It will be sculptural.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

Now that I’m scaling the brand, we’re also working hard to come to solutions that are sustainable and luxurious and exclusive at the same time. For instance, the silk and foam inside the box are not sustainable and we can’t pump stuff out that gets thrown away.

IMAGE: Aqualis.

A lot of brands go through this journey. You look at Byredo and Roja Parfums, which have changed so much over the years, and you have this confidence, it’s fine to change it.

Running a perfume business takes a lot of cash. If I can ask the rude question, how have you done it?

Begged, borrowed and stolen [laughs]. I funded everything myself is the simple answer. I’ve been in high positions in companies. A lot of friends bought a house and I invested in a company. I love high risk [laughs again]. But then the company has grown organically in terms of its cash-flow, so whatever we’ve done, we’re not struggling to shift stock.

“Wherever there’s something that’s going to cost me a lot of money, I’ve ending up doing it myself.” – Steyn Grobler

Wherever there’s something that’s going to cost me a lot of money, I’ve ending up doing it myself. That’s also very much the South African way.

Aqualis fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

July 19, 2022

Best Le Labo Fragrances: 17 Top Releases From The Niche Standard-Setter

If there’s a brand that’s synonymous with the rise and rise of niche fragrances, it’s Le Labo. So a best Le Labo fragrances post is a no-brainer. Founded by Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi in 2006, the NYC-based company rode the crest of the niche wave in the noughties with its mix of French tradition and New York attitude.

FRAGRANCE LAB FOUNDERS: Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi. IMAGE: Le Labo.

What seems standard now – idiosyncratic scents, apothecary packaging, naming convention for fragrances (the main scent note + the composition’s number of ingredients) – was positively innovative and daring at the time.

From its origins at 233 Elizabeth Street, Nolita, NYC, and acquisition by the Estée Lauder Companies in 2014 to recent releases, Le Labo has managed to maintain its credibility and quality in an increasingly over-crowded market.

Many of the house’s launch releases feature in this best Le Labo fragrances round-up, but there are also several other standouts worthy of your attention.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

LE LABO BERGAMOTE 22 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Want one of the best bergamot fragrances on the market? This 2006 release is yours for the taking.

The opening displays the complex characteristics of the citrus note to great effect: tart, spicy and aromatic. There’s more citrus support from notes of bitter grapefruit and green petitgrain. What could be an overwhelmingly sharp concoction is balanced with the subtle floral sweetness of orange blossom, white musk and an amber accord. A large dose of vetiver in the drydown maintains the original freshness with its clean woodiness.

Yes, it’s pricey for a citrus-centric scent, but rest assured, you’re getting top quality as part of the deal.

LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

Le Labo established its reputation soon after its launch in 2006 with fragrances that included Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Patchouli 24 and Iris 39.

Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the almost-too-popular-for-its-own-good Santal 33), Iris 39 brings a different take on one of my favourite florals.

It opens with the brief sunny spiciness of lime, ginger and cardamom. Iris is often cool and aloof, but Voelkl surrounds it with yet more warmth of the ylang-ylang kind. There’s powder aplenty with violet in support. The drydown is big on the earthy patchouli and musky, animalic vibe (the synthetic civetone is particularly appealing here).

LE LABO JASMIN 17 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)

Billed as the company’s modern interpretation of floral fragrances, I wear this 2006 release whenever I want to be reminded of spring and summer. It never fails to do the trick.

Bitter orange (also known as bigarade) is the first to make an impact with its sharp citric freshness. The headline act is everything I want the white floral to be: intense, honeyed with just the right amount of sweetness, fruity and sunny. It’s enhanced and balanced by notes of orange blossom and neroli.

The drydown is on the creamy side, thanks to notes of vanilla and sandalwood, with musk concluding the sensual package.

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

This 2006 release is all the proof you need fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.

Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk derived from the seeds of a tropical plant. It’s undoubtedly the star of this creation, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.

It’s a soft rendition of the fruity musk theme and strikes a deft balance between slightly sweet and sour.

LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)

Released in 2006 as part of the brand’s launch collection, this EDP is a curious beast. Labdanum (also known as cistus labdanum and rock rose) is a sticky resinous substance obtained from the leaves and stems of the plant. It gives amber fragrances depth and potency.

In the masterful hands of legendary perfumer Maurice Roucel (creator of classics such as Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP and Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur EDP), it starts out in musky animalic-leather style, with assistance from notes of civet and castoreum (don’t worry, no animals were harmed here, these are synthetic versions).

It softens as it progresses towards an almost baby powder feel sweetened with vanilla and tonka bean (I wish all babies smelled this good). The powderiness keeps on coming with warm musk in the drydown.

LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Le Labo Neroli 36 was one of the launch fragrances from the NYC-based niche brand, but doesn’t get as much attention as, say, Santal 33 or Bergamote 22. Which is a pity, because this 2006 release is enchanting stuff from the first spray.

The title note brings on the sun with its honey-ish qualities. It’s amplified by notes of mandarin orange with a slight aldehydic vibe. The floral mood continues with notes of jasmine and rose, fresh and gently sweet.

Musk and vanilla mingle in the warm drydown of this thoroughly cheerful composition.

LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP (ANNICK MÉNARDO)

Is this 2006 release from the brand’s launch collection a leather or a patchouli scent? The company’s website even states “patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula.”

There’s certainly no missing the mega dose of birch in it. The oil from the bark of this hardwood tree (birch tar oil) is renowned for its smoky leather properties and it gives this EDP an almost burnt quality. A hint of warm and spicy vanilla softens the harsh edges. Yeah, but what about the patchouli? It pops up when you least expect it, earthy and medicinal, and then disappears.

Intriguing, challenging stuff…

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex scent, the house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.

This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.

It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded with a standout EDP.

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

Long before it was trendy to highlight individual ingredients, Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name Le Labo 46 comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it.

There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with cloves and pepper at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special (the Haitian variety is used) is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra oomph by the olibanum note.

Deep, dark, delicious… But not for everyone.

LE LABO OUD 27 EDP (VINCENT SCHALLER)

Some people think this 2009 release is too animalic. I think it does a fine job of displaying the precious ingredient at its mysterious and musky best.

Rich and resinous oud beckons from the first spray. Its spiciness is accentuated by notes of black pepper, saffron and patchouli. There’s also some seductive smokiness at work in this EDP, courtesy of notes of incense and guaiac wood. Atlas cedar rounds it off with a touch of sweetness and a whole lot of warmth.

The result: an intense olfactory experience that mostly avoids the Western dilution common to many oud fragrances.

LE LABO ANOTHER 13 EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

You know you’re trendy when you’re commissioned by the editor-in-chief of the highly regarded fashion and culture AnOther Magazine to create an exclusive scent for them.

Synthetics are amped to the max in this 2010 release, which is actually a very good thing. The soft woodiness of ISO E Super and muskiness of ambroxan are clearly evident, while the fruitiness of pear and jasmine are also present in the mix. The naturally derived musk ambrette seed absolute adds a silky dimension.

Not just another fragrance, for sure.

IMAGE: Le Labo.

LE LABO SANTAL 33 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

One of the most prominent niche fragrances of the last decade, this 2011 release is still fantastic stuff. Don’t let the “it’s too popular” naysayers tell you otherwise.

Inspired by the iconic Marlboro ads with their free ’n wild west imagery, it presents the ruggedness of Australian sandalwood bolstered by an accord of lived-in leather, smoky papyrus, resinous cedar and spicy cardamom. A liberal dose of Ambrox gives it musky voomah. Notes of iris and violet soften the edges with their sensual floral powderiness.

This decade-defining creation stands out for all the right reasons. I salute the perfumer behind it, Frank Voelkl.

LE LABO LYS 41 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Big doesn’t necessarily mean better, but in the case of this 2013 release it’s big and beautiful.

Three white florals are presented in all their formidable glory. While tuberose is the most prominent, lily and jasmine also get their chance to contribute to the sunny freshness. Although not officially listed, I reckon there’s also some tiare flower, with its fruity and indolic attributes, in the mix. Madagascan vanilla gives the bouquet chic creaminess, with musk and woody notes prolonging the olfactory sensuality in the drydown.

It’s truly powerful stuff, so probably not the best option for the faint-hearted. Anyone else will lap it up with vigour.

LE LABO THÉ NOIR 29 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

This 2015 release is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.

It announces itself in distinctive fashion with a trio of rich notes: fig, bergamot and bay leaf. The effect is immediately intense and compelling. It gets even darker when the earthy vetiver and tobacco-ish black tea leaves come into play.

The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!

LE LABO YLANG 49 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

Any doubts that the acquisition of Le Labo by the Estée Lauder Companies in 2014 would dilute the quality and creativity of the brand were put to rest when Le Labo Ylang 49 was launched in 2015. Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the ever-popular Santal 33), it’s a luscious, dense and take-no-prisoners composition.

In the opening, ylang-ylang and Tahitian gardenia bring on the floral richness in no uncertain terms. It’s sweet and wonderfully intoxicating. Please don’t stop. And it doesn’t, thanks to the next stage of the scent’s evolution, featuring dark and earthy notes of patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.

After all that intensity, sandalwood and benzoin leave a warm and creamy smoothness.

LE LABO BAIE 19 EDP

This 2019 release sees Le Labo in conceptual mode. It’s all about the petrichor effect. According to the BBC, two Australian researchers came up with the name in the 1960s to describe the phenomenon of the warm, earthy smell we experience when rain hits dry ground. Baie 19 isn’t the first fragrance to capture this sensation but is one of the most convincing.

There’s freshness aplenty from an airy ozonic accord, with aromatic support from juniper berries and greenery in the background. An overdose of patchouli provides the earthy aspect and is accentuated by musk and Ambroxan.

Intriguing yet very wearable stuff.

LE LABO THÉ MATCHA 26 EDP

Le Labo Thé 29 is undoubtedly one of my favourite tea fragrances for its bold distinctiveness. I reach for Thé Matcha, a 2021 release, when I want something more reserved and tranquil.

Although subtle, the matcha tea accord has the green-ish, seaweed qualities I love about the Japanese beverage. It’s given character and contrasts with the sweet floralcy of fig and tart citrus of bitter orange notes.

The drydown is soft and woody, with notes of vetiver and cedar wrapping up the private olfactory experience with delicacy.

All these best Le Labo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. Do you have any best Le Labo fragrances?

June 30, 2022

Quentin Bisch Parfums de Marly Delina Interview: “I Don’t Create Perfumes Thinking Of Success”

The last time I interviewed Quentin Bisch, in 2018, the Paris-based perfumer was already making an impression with his creations for brands such as Chloé, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Etat Libre d’Orange, Mugler, Ex Nihilo and Jean Paul Gaultier.

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Four years later, the Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate has become highly sought after, so much so that this follow-up interview almost didn’t materialise due to his non-stop schedule.

IMAGE: Chloé.

Quentin Bisch made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with Reminiscence Essence EDP. Most recently, he has produced fan favourites Hibiscus Mahajád (2021) and Patchouli Magnetik (2022) for French niche brand Maison Crivelli.

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

His creations for the Parfums de Marly Delina Range – Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif EDP (2018) and Parfums de Marly Delina La Rosée EDP (2021) – are particularly popular.

When we got the opportunity to catch up over a half-hour phone call, we chat about the pressures of being in demand, the Parfums de Marly Delina line and the trickiness of working with roses. We also go into existential territory, which just adds to my admiration of his authenticity and sensitivity.

You are very in demand and are increasingly referred to as a “star perfumer”. How do you cope with the pressure and expectation?

Please don’t [sighs]. When I hear those kinds of things, I’m honoured and touched.

At the same time, it’s just not talking to me. Maybe because I’m strict with myself so I’m always seeking, doing research, looking at my next goals to achieve. So when I hear those compliments, it’s like people are nice, but that’s it.

“With the pressure, it’s only my pressure, which is quite huge. It’s sufficient and quite enough.”

With the pressure, it’s only my pressure, which is quite huge. It’s sufficient and quite enough [laughs].

I get the impression you’re a perfectionist.

Yes, maybe too much. But my self-engine that pushes me all the time is good like that too. Sometimes it’s a bit tricky. I can get into things in an obsessional way. It tends to take a lot in my life.

I still see myself as someone looking for something I haven’t accomplished yet. I feel young and new and having done nothing yet. There’s a huge gap between sometimes what I hear and what I feel in my head.

Apparently, you used to struggle with chemistry, an integral part of perfumery. How’s that part of the equation going now?

No. No [emphatic]. I have understood with experience you don’t need chemistry at all, in fine fragrances especially. Maybe if you’re working with household detergents and so forth, you do, but that’s not my domain.

You don’t need to foresee the chemical reactions in fine fragrances. You just need to perfume alcohol, which has no smell. I’m more of a chef mixing ingredients than a chemist.

IMAGE: Marc-Antoine Barrois.

You make it sound too easy, Quentin…

You’re right. Anybody can create, with a little training, something that smells good. There are some tricks. If you take vanilla, patchouli and labdanum, it smells amber, which is a beautiful accord. You can learn that trick.

To create beautiful perfumes that are modern, different and expansive is complicated because then you must adapt the art of mixing to the art of feeling what will be good, trendy and suits the brand. That is difficult.

Which would come from experience and intuition…

True. Intuition and lots of work. You need to try and try and fail and fail again to discover something nice and interesting. You need to be very patient. If you’re looking for something that’s rewarding quickly, perfumery is not for you.

“If you’re looking for something that’s rewarding quickly, perfumery is not for you.”

Let’s discuss the hugely successful Parfums de Marly Delina range. How much freedom were you given to create these fragrances?

Quite free, I must say. We presented to Julien [Sprecher], the olfactive director of the brand. At first, he didn’t like the note, but we insisted and he reconsidered. He asked me to do one single modification and that’s it.

Delina is powerful stuff. Was that part of the brief?

It’s very important to have that aspect in the whole package. It needed to be powerful and fluid – the way it’s distributed in the air – and transparent at the same time.

How did you ensure Delina Exclusif is different from the original while keeping certain elements?

Exactly. It needed to be a continuation of the first one, like season two. If Delina was roses blooming in the garden at noon, full sun, a beautiful day, then Exclusif would be the same thing, but by night. It’s the same idea but with a different atmosphere.

I see you used Evernyl in the creation of Delina Exclusif. Did you prefer to use this synthetic moss rather than real oak moss?

When a perfumer uses a material, it’s not a basic choice between a natural and synthetic. I used Evernyl for a certain reason. It’s a different material. It’s like if you asked why I used hedione or benzyl acetate in place of jasmine. They’re three completely different materials.

“Creating a perfume is not a battle of choosing between natural and synthetic, good and bad. They’re a range of different ingredients.”

Creating a perfume is not a battle of choosing between natural and synthetic, good and bad. They’re a range of different ingredients.

For example, using a high amount of rose essence oil sometimes is not good. It stinks because it’s too dark, too spicy. It’s a cocktail of molecules when you use the natural. The synthetic allows you to use just one part of the rose, so then you can create your own rose.

I’m enjoying the relative softness of La Rosée with its aquatic vibe. What was the idea there?

I thought it could be the prequel. The same rose, but in the morning and not fully bloomed at that moment. There’s a dewy, wet atmosphere. It’s transparent but still powerful.

Are you surprised by the success of the range?

Yes! And everywhere! In Brazil, the Middle East, America, Russia, France. It’s crazy. That’s very interesting.

You never know if something is going to be a success. I don’t create perfumes thinking of that. Sometimes a beautiful fragrance can be launched at the wrong time and it misses the audience.

All these Delina fragrances feature Turkish rose. Is this an easy ingredient to work with for you?

No, not at all. It’s beautiful but very powerful and can be a bit tricky. If you overdose it, it’s not modern.

For Parfums de Marly, it needed to be the legacy of this olfactory fantasy, tradition and modernity.

It’s really a duet of this rose, from Turkey and which is natural, and Petalia. This captive molecule from Givaudan [the company he works for] is a key ingredient of the modern rosiness of Delina. It keeps the litchi, fresh rose facet from top to bottom.

IMAGE: Givaudan.

Do you have a favourite ingredient to work with?

It changes all the time, like one’s mood. It depends on what you want to do. At the moment, it’s vanilla, because I’m working on something with it.

You know for Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle EDP, it started with le grand cru vanille, a delicious French cake with vanilla in all its states – powdery, dark, leathery. It was very interesting, the first time I was really trying to create an accord around vanilla and all its facets. From that day, I’m a vanilla-lover.

IMAGE: Jean Paul Gaultier.

Are you working on the next addition to the Delina range already? I know these things are confidential…

[Pause] Not for Delina. I can tell you I’m working on something else for Parfums de Marly.

If I read correctly, you turn 40 next year.

I turned 39 one week ago.

Hope it was a good celebration. Does it mean anything to you, as you approach that landmark year? Is this a time of reflection for you?

Definitely, but I’m always in that kind of state [laughs]. I’m always thinking about where I am, what I do, and asking myself: Are you doing the right thing? Are you doing it properly? And if not, change it.

IMAGE: Essential Parfums.

It’s tiring but also good because you’re sure you’re at the right place at the right moment and you’re not lying to yourself and others. I hate, hate not being honest with myself and others.

I can relate. It can keep you up at night, all those questions, especially when there are no answers.

Yes, yes. You can question something without having the answers. And then it follows you in your everyday life and sometimes, suddenly, you will have that revelation: now, I know this is for me, this is not for me anymore. We evolve all the time and I definitely have the feeling I’m not the same as before.

The Parfums de Marly Delina range is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

June 18, 2022

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP Review: Waves Of Freshness

For such a best-seller, it’s taken a long time for Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP to be released. The original EDT was launched in 1996 and, like it or not, came to epitomise the decade’s trend for aquatic fragrances.

Along the way, it generated a succession of flankers, including Acqua di Giò Essenza EDP (2012), Acqua di Giò Profumo EDP (2015), Acqua di Giò Absolu EDP (2018), Acqua di Giò Profondo EDP (2020) and Acqua di Giò Profondo Lights EDP (2021). All variations on the sophisticated sun-and-sea theme.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

Acqua di Giò EDP was released in 2022 and with the popularity of the franchise and a mega marketing budget to match, I tell you all you need to know about this latest addition.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

Interesting to note that while the Italian luxury brand released relatively few flankers in the fragrance’s earlier life cycle, it seems to have increased the frequency in recent years to maximise its profitability.

Image: Giorgio Armani.

The new release is also very much in line with the company’s eco credentials. All sizes of Acqua di Giò EDP (40ml, 75ml, 125ml) can be unscrewed and refilled at home with the 150ml refill bottle sold separately. The wood cap means less use of plastic.

Various reforestation and conservation projects in Brazil, Madagascar, Peru and Zimbabwe contribute to the company’s carbon neutrality target by 2025.

PERFUMER

Where does one start with Alberto Morillas, creator of all the fragrances in the Acqua di Giò range?

Alberto Morillas is the master perfumer behind all the versions of Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò. Image: Mizensir.

Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics with his finely tuned instinct for commercial success and knowledge of natural and synthetic ingredients.

There’s a good chance you’ve worn one of his many creations in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for Firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).

If you want to know why Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT (1995), Givenchy PI EDT (1998), Carolina Herrera 212 Men EDT (1999), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Bvlgari Man EDT (2010), Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue EDT (2016), Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017), Gucci Bloom EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).

GOLDEN TOUCH: Bvlgari Rose Goldea Blossom Delight EDP is one of the many creations of Alberto Morillas.

There’s a good reason why uber-vlogger Jeremy Fragrance worked with him to create his own range, Fragrance.One.

The Spaniard was awarded the Prix François Coty in 2003 and The Fragrance Foundation (USA) Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013, and launched his own perfume brand Mizensir in 2015.

Image: Mizensir.

SO WHAT DOES GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIÒ EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening brings on a wave of Mediterranean citric freshness, thanks to Calabrian green mandarin*. It’s slightly sharp with a tinge of sunny floralcy.

There’s no missing the marine accord after that. It’s been amplified with Yodanol, a Firmenich captive molecule that enhances freshness with a velvety floral-green aspect. This should please those who found the original’s freshness faded too quickly.

Provencal clary sage heart* gives the scent aromatic muskiness (the herb is a good substitute for ambergris, as the real stuff from the sperm whale costs a fortune and is rarely used nowadays), with floral assistance from notes of lavandin and geranium bourbon heart from Madagascar*.

The drydown is in typically masculine woody territory via a combo of patchouli from Guatemala*, Atlas cedarwood essence and vetiver from Haiti*.

With its long-lasting freshness, Acqua di Giò EDP is certainly stronger and more focused than the original EDT. It’s easier to detect the listed notes in it. While still elegant and timeless, perhaps it has lost some of the complexity and soft appeal of the original in the process. There’s no doubt, it’s going to sell very well. Here’s hoping the brand doesn’t flanker the life out of this classic in the coming years.

*These ingredients have been sustainably sourced, according to the brand.

June 8, 2022

Initio Oud For Greatness EDP Review

Initio was doing quite nicely, thank you, with releases such as Absolute Aphrodisiac (2015), Side Effect (2016) and Psychedelic Love (2017). And then in 2018 – boom! – the French brand launched Initio Oud for Greatness EDP.

I’m not exaggerating when I say this EDP has become hugely popular, joining the ranks of Creed Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 and Parfums de Marly Herod as exemplars of niche excellence to its many fans. I’m told that niche retailer Skins Cosmetics can’t keep up with the demand for it.

At the same time, this law of perfumery – What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down (that is, the more successful a fragrance becomes, the more it’s trashed online) – came into effect.

So I’m cutting through the OTT hype and nasty negativity to bring you the Fragroom review of Initio Oud for Greatness.

PERFUMER

Despite repeated attempts to get this info from the brand and online research, nada. I expect niche companies to be more transparent with this stuff, but moving on…

SO WHAT DOES INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS SMELL LIKE?

This release from the brand’s Black Gold Project Collection gets going in bold style with a big dose of saffron. Its leathery qualities are supported by the clean aromatics of lavender and earthiness of nutmeg. The effect is fresh ’n spicy, with an emphasis on the latter.

It doesn’t take long for the oud to come through. Any oud fragrance, especially a relatively pricey niche one, inevitably leads to the question: but is it real oud? The brand claims to use both natural oud wood and agar wood oil in this composition.

Depending on a number of factors (for example, the quality, where it’s from, how it’s treated, what it’s combined with), the precious ingredient can range from the overpoweringly skanky and barnyard (not for beginners) to the smoother and more refined, à la Initio Oud for Greatness.

“It’s rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation.”

Even though it’s not as “brutal” as the brand claims it to be, it’s still rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation which lasts through to the drydown.

Patchouli and musk feature here, albeit in minor assistant roles to accentuate the overall deep mood. It’s unusual for an Initio fragrance to not be musk heavy, but nothing wrong with a change in tone.

It’s easy to understand why Initio Oud for Happiness is so popular. Yes, it’s not particularly complex but it’s beautifully blended in a friendly Western style. Oh, and did I mention its impressive sillage and longevity? Definitely a big part of its appeal.

Anyone looking for a potent but accessible, statement-making oud will find their joy in this release.

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

May 24, 2022

Kajal Lamar EDP Review: Window On A World Of Colour

You can’t always judge a fragrance’s popularity and quality from Instagram. But in the case of Kajal Lamar EDP, you certainly can. This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.

In the two years since its launch, this addition to the company’s Classic Collection has developed a devoted following. I take a closer look at this cult favourite and what makes it such a worthwhile purchase.

ABOUT THE PERFUMER

Mark Buxton is one of the most creative contemporary perfumers. The British perfumer made his debut in 1979 with Alain Delon Pour Homme EDT.

IMAGE: Mark Buxton Perfumes.

He created several classics for Comme des Garçons, including the Japanese brand’s fantastic eponymous debut (1994), Comme des Garçons 2 EDP (1999) and Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT (2004).

IMAGE: Comme des Garçons.

While best known for his work for niche houses (House of Sillage, Le Labo, Linari, Parfums d’Elmar, Folie à Plusieurs, among others), he’s also given his bold touch to designer scents such as Chopard Mira-Bai EDT (1998), Cartier Pasha de Cartier Fraîcheur Menthe EDT (1999), Versace V/S Homme EDT (2000), Paco Rabanne Black XS for Her EDT (2007), Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Light EDT (2008) and Van Cleef & Arpels Cologne Noire EDP (2009).

He launched his own eponymous perfume company in 2008.

SO WHAT DOES KAJAL LAMAR EDP SMELL LIKE?

It makes a statement from the get-go. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.

The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.

The enchantment continues through to the drydown with a good dose of the synthetic Ambroxan taking the lead with its smooth muskiness. The moss note is also worth mentioning, as it brings a hint of bitter earthiness to what is otherwise an uncompromisingly sweet composition.

“While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying.”

While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.

Anyone looking for a standout fruity fragrance will appreciate this beauty. Even those with an aversion to overly sweet scents could find themselves succumbing to the charms of Kajal Lamar EDP.

It’s ideal for special occasions or when you want to feel special. Mostly, though, wear it when you want a window on a world of colour.

Oh, must mention that Kajal has some of the most striking bottles on the market (the ornate octagram tops have become synonymous with it).

Lamar reflects its light inspiration through the gold hues of the beautifully designed bottle. I wouldn’t blame you for wanting to display this one prominently among your collection.

Kajal Lamar is available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

April 16, 2022

MAURICE ROUCEL INTERVIEW: “I’M ALWAYS IN CONTROL OF MY FORMULAS, TRYING TO PLEASE MY CLIENT – AND MYSELF”

IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

Maurice Roucel called me last week. Shameless name-dropping aside, I’ve always wanted to say that. After all, how often does a living legend respond to a flurry of emails with a phone-call to set up a time for an interview a week later. I gush about this Maurice Roucel interview because, in his nearly five decades-long career, he’s the man behind fragrances such as:

Rochas Tocade EDT (1994)
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist EDP (1994)
Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP (1995)
Lalique Pour Homme EDP (1997)
Gucci Envy EDT (1997)
Rochas Man EDT (1999)
Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur EDP (2000)
Bond No 9 New Haarlem EDP (2003)
Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP (2003)
Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious EDP (2004)
Lolita Lempicka L de Lolita Lempicka EDP (2006)
Guerlain Insolence EDT (2006)
Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP (2006)
Nautica Voyage EDT (2006)
Amouage Reflection Woman EDP (2007)
Lancôme Hypnôse Homme EDT (2007)
Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras EDP (2008)

More recently, he has given niche brands such as Atkinsons, Cochine, Maison Rebatchi and Shalini his distinctive Gallic flair.

Maurice Roucel didn’t go the traditional route of perfume school. Starting at Chanel in 1973, where he worked with Henri Robert (creator of No 19 and Cristalle, pictured below), he taught himself the fundamentals of the profession. No doubt, his background as a chromatography chemist, with its techniques of separating a mixture into its individual components, gave him a technical edge.

IMAGE: Chanel.

His earliest fragrances included Henry M. Betrix Country EDT (1979) and Krizia K de Krizia (1981). In 1996, he joined the German fragrance and flavour company Symrise, which recognised him as a master perfumer – a rare accolade in the industry. Other achievements include the Prix François Coty (2002) and the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012).

IMAGE: Fragrantica.

When we get to chat properly, the Normandy-born, Paris-based perfumer is humorous, insightful and forthright. I try to find out what project he’s currently working on – rightly so, he insists it’s confidential. Instead, we talk about a wide range of subjects, including synthetics, ambers, keeping clients happy and approaching his latest career milestone.

Hope you enjoy reading this Maurice Roucel interview as much I did speaking with him.

IMAGE: Symrise.

You’re self-taught. How many years did it take before you knew the essentials?

[Laughs] I’m still learning. You always do in this business.

Musk seems to be one of your favourites. Why does it appeal so much to you?

Ah yes, I like musk, but I like to work with a lot of things. I don’t have a particular favourite.

“I like musk, but I like to work with a lot of things. I don’t have a particular favourite.”

While I must work to the ideas of client briefs, which are quite specific, personally I do enjoy something with the structure of musk, vanille [vanilla], ambery, sweet but not too sweet, comfortable. A little bit of the style, I would like to say, of Guerlain, Guerlinade [the house’s signature accord originally created by Aimé Guerlain in the late 19^th century].

You mentioned amber. There’s a lot of confusion about it…

At the beginning, ambergris came from the sperm whale. Nowadays, it’s frankly impossible. With animalics increasingly forbidden, you have synthetics or bases – perhaps you’ve heard of Ambre 93 from de Laire, for example.

You have sweet amber and dry amber. The product Ambroxan is dry ambery. When you are looking at the perfumery of Guerlain, the famous Guerlinade, it could be seen as ambery, but nothing to do with the original amber [laughs].

Ambre 83 from de Laire tries to add something comfortable, reassuring, feminine, enveloping, that kind of stuff.

Perfumery relies on a mix of naturals and synthetics…

DKNY Be Delicious is totally synthetic.

And it’s great…

Yeah, it’s great, but it’s a question of the art of the perfumer to make something smell good.

How do you deal with the idea that “natural is best”?

It’s not the case. If you want to give the DNA of your perfume strong character, you need to use synthetics.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP

PERSONAL PERFUME: In this Maurice Roucel interview, the perfumer reveals that Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache was initially created for himself. IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

You’ve created more than 150 perfumes in your career. Have you ever struggled with self-doubt or to come up with ideas or inspiration?

Maybe, I don’t know, I never count them.

Sometimes it’s difficult to find the right idea, for sure. But when you have it and it’s pleasing the client, we can work it for creating properly. Sometimes you can create something in one afternoon, as they say, sometimes it can take five to six years.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Nautica Voyage EDT

IMAGE: Nautica.

Hermès 24 Faubourg is one of my favourite creations of yours. It’s such a beautiful classic…

You know, originally I was not a fan of orange flower absolute, not my cup of tea. I was thinking at that time, the brief from Hermès was to create something around the Mediterranean, the sea, the sun. For me, Mediterranean countries mean orange flower, so that’s why I chose to work with it.

“It took four to five years to create the perfume. The people from Hermès are quite picky.”

And it took four to five years to create the perfume. The people from Hermès are quite picky. They are very demanding [chuckles]. When you have the scarves, the leather, everything is absolutely gorgeous, focused and very high quality.

Let’s talk about one of your more recent creations, Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP [2019] which, coincidentally, I’ve just received from the company. Love its soft powderiness…

Originally, it was a perfume I created for myself. These ideas can then be proposed to a client and if they like it, they can then take it [laughs].

PERSONAL PERFUME: In this Maurice Roucel interview, he reveals he initially created Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache for himself. IMAGE: Maison Rebatchi.

Do you have lots of these ideas waiting to be realised?

For example, you know, when I was, not so far from you really [I’m in Johannesburg, South Africa], in Réunion Island, I never smelled anything so beautiful in my life as the tiaré. So I was inspired and that became L’Instant de Guerlain.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain EDP

IMAGE: Guerlain.

Is that how you find inspiration often? By travelling?

Inspiration can come from everywhere. Like with DKNY Be Delicious, I thought why not an apple, but an apple in my style. I like to add something different.

Are there certain compromises you’re not willing to make when working with a client?

Pleasing the client, that’s okay. But I’m always in control of my formulas, trying to please my client – and myself.

Going back to fruity fragrances, I discovered one of your less well-known creations from 2008, Adidas Natural Vitality EDT, on Fragrantica.

Which one? Is it me? Sorry, I don’t remember all my perfumes.

You’re heading for 50 years in the industry in 2023. What’s been the biggest change in that time?

Yes, it’s a long life, a big part of my life.

When I started there were 20 to 30 maximum new perfumes on the market every year. Nowadays it’s 3 000 [laughs]. Everybody wants to launch a perfume.

To have a success, you need to move to the big trend. When Mugler Angel was launched [in 1992] it was not appreciated at all for its innovation. Three years later, a lot of people were making the sister, the nephew, the mother, the grandmother of Angel.

“A lot of perfumes don’t have strong inspiration. They do not stay in the memory as they have nothing specific.”

Meaning that a lot of perfumes don’t have strong inspiration. Investment in them is not in their quality but more the communication and publicity and so on.

You have a lot of perfumes on the market for one year, two years maximum. They do not stay in the memory as they have nothing specific.

Niche has some kind of answer to the desire of the client for something peculiar.

Maurice Roucel Interview - Lalique Pour Homme EDP

IMAGE: Lalique.

What one thing would you like to see change in the industry?

A partnership with the client. And not everyone trying to win the brief. For winning you need to be commercial, which is a pity for creativity.

But when you are working with somebody like Frédéric Malle, some companies like Chanel, Guerlain, you can find people in front of you who have a sense of perfumery at the right level.

All images for this Maurice Roucel interview my own, unless stated otherwise.

April 9, 2022

Best Tea Fragrances: A Cuppa Olfactory Inspiration

Tea is not just one of my favourite beverages; it’s also one of my favourite fragrance genres. Before I take you through my best tea fragrances selection, a bit of background…

The category is a relatively new one and originated with Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Commissioned to make the Bvlgari stores smell nice, according to Chandler Burr’s fascinating book The Perfect Scent, its unexpected success (customers were snapping it up at $350 a bottle) led to it being launched as a more commercial endeavour in 1992.

Forty years later, you’ll find numerous renditions on the best tea fragrances theme. From black and white to green and red, all offer an aromatic interpretation of the nuances of the different leaves used to produce tea.

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best tea fragrances?

BVLGARI EAU PARFUMÉE AU THÉ VERT EAU DE COLOGNE (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

The Italian luxury jewellery company made a fine debut, in 1992, with Eau Parfumée (now known as Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert), a celebration of Japanese green tea.

It starts out with the fresh citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and mandarin orange. They mingle with the spices and herbs of cardamom, nutmeg and clary sage to help create a green tea accord that’s aromatic and uplifting. Hints of florals – jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, Bulgarian rose – add to the refreshing vibe.

This is a softie, so “beast moders”, please move on. Anyone else will appreciate the artistry of this trend-setter that paved the way for other scents such as Elizabeth Arden Green Tea and Kilian Bamboo Harmony.

Also look out for the brand’s other takes on the tea theme: Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc (white Himalayan tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu (oolong tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir (black tea) and Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge (rooibos).

Best Tea Fragrances - Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert EDC

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

CREED SILVER MOUNTAIN WATER EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Creed Aventus EDP may get all the hype, but this 1995 release from the Paris-based niche brand gets my vote for its versatility. Inspired by perfumer Olivier Creed’s love for skiing in the Swiss Alps, it’s quality stuff with a hefty price tag. Inspiration often doesn’t translate into reality, but this fragrance captures it so well, from the bottle to the juice.

The opening is fresh, thanks to citrus notes of bergamot, neroli and mandarin. Things really get interesting when the heart notes of green tea and blackcurrant add a green element to the fresh effect. The drydown is all sandalwood and musk.

A crisp, clean and chic affair.

IMAGE: Creed.

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA EDT (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea celebrated its 23rd birthday last year. It’s easy to understand why this 1999 creation is still in production.

The opening is all zingy freshness, with citrus notes of lemon, orange zest and bergamot in perfect play. The freshness continues through to the heart of green tea and mint. Notes of jasmine and fennel bring light floral and spiciness to this EDT, which settles on a musky base.

It’s such an uplifting scent. And the great price just adds to the cheap thrills factor.

The brand regularly releases variations on the Green Tea theme – fig, mimosa and sakura blossom have been some of my favourites so far.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this release from the pioneering French niche brand enough. Twenty-two years after its release, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Tea Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

WARMTH: L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two is one of my favourites in this best tea fragrances selection.

**KILIAN BAMBOO HARMONY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)**

I tend to associate Kilian fragrances with hedonism, in the best sense of the word. So Kilian Bamboo Harmony is something of a surprising change in tone.

From the Paris-based niche brand’s The Fresh Collection, this 2012 release is every bit as peaceful as it sounds and lives up to its inspiration, “a sip of pure white tea in a bamboo forest”, in style.

The opening is all about citrus freshness, with bergamot and bigarade at the fore. Calice Becker infuses the composition with relaxing white tea leaves, while mimosa enhances the green mood. The moss note in the drydown maintains the tranquillity.

A great bedtime choice when you need a calming mist.

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX, CAROLINE SABAS & GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

This release from the American beauty brand was one of my best-loved fragrances from 2017.

Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening is a fresh ’n breezy blend of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) touches. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, this soft but persistent scent is a fantastic cheapie, in the style Elizabeth Arden does brilliantly.

The additions to the range – Vanilla Orchid, Wild Rose, Ginger Lily and Mandarin Blossom – also warrant your attention.

LE LABO THÉ **29 EDP* (FRANK VOELKL)**

This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche house is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.

The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!

**VILHELM PARFUMERIE DEAR POLLY EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

Launched in 2015, Dear Polly was one of the NYC-based niche house’s debut releases and set the tone of quality for other standout releases such as Mango Skin, Basilico & Fellini and A Lilac A Day.

Candied apple meets crisp bergamot in the opening, followed by a big dose of black tea. While some might prefer their tea unsweetened and green, the sweet take on tea works rather nicely, I’m back for more.

Like any worthwhile composition, Dear Polly keeps on giving in the drydown, with oakmoss, black amber and musk creating an irresistibly cosy and sensual warmth.

NISHANE WŪLÓNG CHÁ EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (JORGE LEE)

Cup of tea, dear? Yes please, if it’s as good as this one. This 2015 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Miniature Art Collection is fantastically refreshing from start to finish.

It gets going with the citrus-green hues of bergamot, supported by lesser notes of delicately sweetened orange and mandarin. There’s also some aromatic lemon-y freshness courtesy of litsea cubeba, the shrub native to east Asia. The oolong tea, softly fruity and green, is enhanced by honeyed fig and clean white musk in the drydown.

For a freshie, this one lasts quite a long time, but then it’s an extrait de parfum.

BERDOUES ASSAM OF INDIA EDP (JENNIFER RILEY)

The travel-inspired Collection Grands Crus from the fourth-generation, family-owned, Grasse-based Berdoues brand must be one of the most likeable ranges around. This 2015 release epitomises that appeal.

It opens with the crisp and bright citrus hues of citron from Menton (France). The black tea note evokes the famous variety that’s indigenous to Assam (India), with its full-bodied characteristics. A note of creamy Mysore (India) sandalwood completes the cosmopolitan cuppa.

There’s nothing complicated about this composition, yet it delivers plenty of seemingly effortless elegant comfort. Who could ask for more?

HERMÈS EAU DE CITRON NOIR EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Hermès’ first entry in this best tea fragrances round-up comes from the French luxury brand’s superb Cologne Collection.

The opening of this 2018 release is all about the sharp and invigorating citrus freshness of lemon and citron. It transitions with the appearance of an unusual accord, black lime – inspired by the Middle Eastern culinary tradition of sun-drying limes until they are dehydrated. Blended with black tea, it’s sour, smoky and musky. The smoky vibe is maintained in the drydown featuring guaiac wood.

A classic and timeless choice.

MAISON CRIVELLI BOIS DATCHAÏ EDP* (DOROTHÉE PIOT)

I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release from the Paris-based niche brand that’s fast becoming one of my firm favourites.

The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness.

The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli, while papyrus and guaiac wood notes provide a subtle leather undertow.

HERMÈS L’OMBRE DES MERVEILLES EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Even when it’s a flanker, a Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And this 2020 release is a particularly good addition to the range which was originally launched in 2004 with Hermès Eau des Merveilles.

It features just three listed notes: black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and almost aniseed-y. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

Best Tea Fragrances - Hermes L'Ombre des Merveilles EDP

CONTRASTS: Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles is one of my more recent best tea fragrances.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The 2020 addition to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

*All these best tea fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

March 23, 2022

Best Powdery Fragrances: Cosy To Devastatingly Chic

Whether for their sensual or comforting properties, I can’t get enough of powdery perfumes, so had to stop myself from adding more to this best powdery fragrances post.

The powdery genre covers a lot of territory. Of course, there isn’t any powder in these fragrances, but they showcase notes or accords with this sensation to varying effect, from the grandma-ish (nothing wrong with a bit of nostalgia) to thoroughly modern.

Some notes are powderier than others. On the floral side, notes of iris / orris, violet, rose and mimosa feature prominently. Musks, vanillas and amber accords can also have a powdery feel. As does the fruity note of peach.

Do you have any best powdery fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME **EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)**

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release from the pioneering French niche brand will tell you all you need to know.

The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre, is a standard-setter in the amber category. Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth. Old-school glamour at its very best.

CLIVE CHRISTIAN NO 1 FOR HER FEMININE EDITION EDP*

CLIVE CHRISTIAN NO 1 FOR HIM MASCULINE EDITION EDP*

My relationship with Clive Christian perfumes so far has been a turbulent one, and so it continues with this duo from 2001.
* Clive Christian No 1 Feminine Edition: My favourite of the two. A lush arrangement of fruits (plum, peach) and florals (jasmine, rose) on a creamy sandalwood base, with powder to spare. You should feel like a million bucks wearing it. At the price, you would need a million bucks to keep on wearing it.
* Clive Christian No 1 Masculine Edition EDP: Hints of spice and citrus and big florals (iris, rose) lead the way to a powdery and musky drydown, with sandalwood completing the rich oriental. Undeniably sophisticated and quality stuff, but will you want so much more for the price?

**FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE* (PIERRE BOURDON)**

It doesn’t get any better than Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, one of the launch releases from the year 2 000 that established the Paris-based niche fragrance house’s impeccable credentials.

This Pierre Bourdon creation opens with the floral luxuriance of ylang-ylang. Notes of violet and rose lay the powdery path for the headline iris. Iris can be a bit of an ice queen, but I find this take welcoming and embracing once you get to know her. There’s also an aldehydic element, but it never steals the show. It gives the composition a classic feel.

Warm and smooth sandalwood defines the drydown, with musk and tonka bean lingering sensually on the skin. What a treat!

**LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)**

Released in 2006 as part of the NYC-based niche brand’s launch collection, this EDP is a curious beast. Labdanum (also known as cistus labdanum and rock rose) is a sticky resinous substance obtained from the leaves and stems of the plant. It gives amber fragrances depth and potency.

In the masterful hands of legendary perfumer Maurice Roucel (creator of classics such as Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP and Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur), it starts out in musky animalic-leather style, with support from notes of civet and castoreum (don’t worry, no animals were harmed here, these are synthetic versions).

LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

NYC-based niche house Le Labo established its reputation soon after its launch in 2006 with fragrances that included Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Patchouli 24 and Iris 39. Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the almost-too-popular-for-its-own-good Santal 33), Iris 39 brings a different take to one of my favourite florals.

The drydown is big on the earthy patchouli and musky, animalic vibe (the synthetic civetone is particularly appealing here).

**NASOMATTO SILVER MUSK EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

This 2007 release from the Amsterdam-based niche brand is notable for three main reasons:

1) It presents a metallic spin on the musk theme. Starting out clean and clinical, it evolves into something comforting and powdery, while maintaining the initial freshness.

2) For Alessandro Gualtieri (creator of never-ending perfumes such as Nasomatto Black Afgano and Orto Parisi Terroni), it’s a quite subtle quiet skin scent (I challenge you to say that quickly after a few beers). Good to see the maverick perfumer in a different mode.

3) It’s not for everyone. Those who “get” it will love it. Anyone else will think, “WTF! How could this be included in a best powdery fragrances post!” That’s a recommendation, by the way.

IMAGE: Nasomatto.

**CREED LOVE IN BLACK EDP* (OLIVIER CREED & ERWIN CREED)**

Apparently inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, this 2008 release opens with the floral powder of violet. Its freshness is amplified and given body with a note of Virginia cedar.

There’s additional powder from Florentine iris and white musk. Their cool elegance is spiced with cloves, without dominating the composition. The drydown features a combo of blackcurrant and rose, all fruity tartness.

Devastatingly chic, this EDP has an air of impenetrability about it. Think of it as a piece of perfume armour when you want to feel as inscrutable as the woman who inspired it.

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP*

The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release from the Swedish niche brand.

The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.

A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.

PARFUMS DE MARLY GALLOWAY EDP*

As shown by this 2014 release, the Paris-based niche brand does some of the best freshies in the biz.

The opening is all about the contrast between a burst of sparkling citruses and the warm spice of black pepper. They lead the way to a duo of sweet-ish florals: powdery iris and soapy orange blossom. A blast of white musk in the drydown keeps its clean and powdery, with support from an amber accord and sandalwood.

For a freshie, it lasts forever and a day. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the house.

PARFUMS DE MARLY ATHALIA EDP*

Apart from the Delina range, the female releases from the Paris-based niche brand don’t get as much attention as they should when compared to their more masculine siblings.

Delicately smoky incense meets the tart freshness of bitter orange in the opening of this 2016 release. Iris, the powdery and earthy variety, then gets support from vibrant orange blossom and the musky synthetic Cashmeran. White musk, vanilla and an amber accord prolong the powderiness in the drydown.

The result is olfactory opulence, just like its black bottle with gold accents, without being overbearing and flashy.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NARCISO EDP POUDRÉE (AURÉLIEN GUICHARD)

Launched in 2016, Poudrée is the second addition to the Narciso range and, as its name suggests, is all about sensual powderiness.

There’s plenty of that in the opening where Bulgarian rose mingles with fresh jasmine. It’s stylishly sweet and thoroughly addictive. All Narciso Rodriguez scents riff on musk and this one extends the powdery theme in a clean way, without ever being clinical. After all that airiness, it’s grounded in a woody drydown of cedars (black and white) and vetiver.

Bravo to perfumer Aurélien Guichard for another stellar creation!

Best Powdery Fragrances - Narciso Rodriguez Narciso EDP Poudree

MUSK THEME: Is Narciso EDP Poudrée one of your best powdery fragrances?

INITIO PSYCHEDELIC LOVE EDP*

There’s no shortage of powdery fragrances from the French niche brand – Rehab, Magnetic Blend 7, Musk Therapy – but this 2017 release from The Carnals Collection must be one of my favourites.

The opening features the rich fruity tones of ylang-ylang, with a smidgen of fresh bergamot in the background. The powder comes through in the form of heliotropin (almonds and vanilla ahoy!), hedione (intense jasmine) and rose (dusty deluxe). Mmm…

The sweet spice of myrrh and creamy sandalwood completes this semi-gourmand with full-on intentions.

MAISON CRIVELLI IRIS MALIKHÂN **EDP* (MARC ZINI)**

A 2020 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house, it delivers on its title note with aplomb.

The notes of mimosa and lentisque set the powdery and creamy tone respectively, while galbanum brings a hint of greenery to the composition. The combo of orris and vanilla, all silky butteriness, is amplified by a slightly animalic leather accord. The amber treatment keeps it sweet in a sophisticated way.

With gourmand-ish qualities, but not in an obvious way, it’s easy to understand why this luxurious EDP is one of the brand’s top sellers and its inclusion in this best powdery fragrances line-up.

DIPTYQUE ORPHÉON EDP*

Paying homage to the company’s heritage for its 60^th anniversary, this 2021 release takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.

It opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.

With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. But perhaps I’m being too literal. It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s grown on me.

GUERLAIN INSOLENCE EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL & SYLVAINE DELACOURTE)

Originally released as an EDT in 2006 and now part of the revered French brand’s Les Légendaires Collection, this 2021 release is way more approachable and wearable than its name suggests.

There’s a mega dose of violet in the opening. The powderiness is fresh, airy and sweet. There’s more floral support from orange blossom, while berries add a rich fruity dimension. Iris adds to the powderiness in a dry and earthy way, with softly creamy vanilla and sandalwood in the drydown.

It doesn’t get prettier than this fruity-floral that’s infused with just the right amount of refined sweetness.

*All these best powdery fragrances available at Skins Cosmetics.

March 5, 2022

Best Patchouli Fragrances: Earthy, Spicy, Sweet, Musky & More

It’s official: patchouli fragrances are having a bit of a revival and these best patchouli fragrances cover a range of styles and budgets. The last time it was so popular was in the 1960s and 1970s when hippies and boho types wore patchouli oils, some experts claim, to disguise the smell of weed.

In an interview with the UK’s Daily Mail, British perfumer Roja Dove reckons our Covid times echo the turbulence of those decades and helps explain the resurgence of patchouli. “In the 1960s and 1970s, the British and American youth were the post-World War II and Vietnam War generation. They felt politics was rotten and mother earth was where the connection mattered,” he says.

“Pogostemon cablin had a demi-monde reputation in late 19th-century France as women of ill-repute wore it.”

According to the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website, Pogostemon cablin (its scientific name) had a demi-monde reputation in late 19th-century France as women of ill-repute wore it.

A member of the mint family, the herb is native to southeast Asia, with Indonesia being the largest producer. In its natural form, the leaves are dried and fermented. They are then steam-distilled or CO₂ extracted to produce a highly potent and rich essential oil with all the versatile qualities we’ve come to expect from the plant – earthy, woody, sweet, spicy, smoky, musky – depending on how it’s used.

Image: Rocky Mountain Oils.

Due to the expense involved in producing the best-quality oils and environmental concerns about over-farming, synthetics (for example, Akigalawood, pictured, below) and substitutes (for example, Clearwood) are used to produce the same effect.

Image: Givaudan.

What are your best patchouli fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance in this epic best patchouli fragrances round-up.

**MUGLER A*MEN EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)**

Mugler A*Men EDT was not Jacques Huclier’s first perfume, but this love-it-or-hate-it classic was the one that made his name as a multi-talented perfumer. It was also the French designer brand’s first male fragrance, launched after the tremendous success of the pioneering gourmand Mugler Angel.

Released in 1996, there was nothing like it at the time. There have been several attempts to copy it, but none have captured the uniqueness and audacity of the original with its lashings of patchouli, caramel and coffee.

The Mugler A*Men follow-ups, mostly created by Huclier and featuring varying qualities of patchouli, are one of those rare cases in which the flankers offer a new and surprising twist on the theme. I’m usually weary of hyper-sweet fragrances but will always make an exception for Mugler A*Men.

**LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP* (ANNICK MENARDO)**

Is this 2006 release from the NYC-based niche brand’s launch collection a leather or a patchouli scent? The company’s website even states “patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula”.

Yeah, but what about the patchouli? It pops up when you least expect it, earthy and medicinal, and then disappears. Intriguing, challenging stuff…

**ORTO PARISI BRUTUS PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

Amsterdam-based Orto Parisi is one of those love it or hate it niche fragrance brands. And this 2014 release created by Alessandro Gualtieri will either do it for you in abundance or not.

As usual, he gives no notes to guide the consumer. But that doesn’t stop me from picking up a large dose of rough-around-the-edges patchouli. Earthy, spicy and woody, it’s given a hint of freshness with citrus notes of bergamot and mandarin.

With its uncompromising boldness, it’s an acquired taste, so best give it time to work its charms.

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MASCULIN PLURIEL EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

While this 2014 release from the Paris-based niche brand is big on the lavender, it also features a beautifully earthy take on patchouli.

Showcasing the perfumer’s love for the fougère fragrance family, it opens with lavender absolute – the Provençal variety renowned for its smooth, slightly sweet, herbal properties. It’s given sensual depth with a leather accord and woody notes of Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli. Kurkdjian makes the most of the latter in a smoky and musky style.

It all adds up to produce a scent that’s thoroughly elegant.

CAROLINA HERRERA NIGHTFALL PATCHOULI EDP

This fragrance has a similar-ish name to Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli (see below), but couldn’t be more different. A 2015 release from the Herrera Confidential private collection, it shows the American designer brand equally at home in haute parfumerie as it is in more commercial money-spinners.

Benzoin gives it vanilla-ish smoothness, while the patchouli is earthy and herbal in style. The extra-large helping of cinnamon is given a touch of resinous depth with cistus labdanum.

If you’re looking for sweet take on the patchouli theme, this one’s for you.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Carolina Herrera Nightfall Patchouli EDP

GOOD NIGHT: Carolina Herrera Nightfall Patchouli is probably the sweetest of these best patchouli fragrances.

YVES SAINT LAURENT TUXEDO EDP (JULIETTE KARAGUEUZOGLOU)

In 2015, the French luxury fashion brand launched its Le Vestiaire des Parfums private fragrance collection, inspired by iconic items associated with the couturier. I’d forgotten how good Tuxedo is and how like its namesake from 1966, it blends the masculine with the feminine to perfection.

The coolness of cardamom is contrasted with the warmth of black pepper to create sensual spiciness. A hint of rose, with woody accents, adds to the allure. The patchouli, smokiness on high, is paired with a musky ambergris-like accord and smooth spicy vanilla in the drydown.

Devastatingly chic and sexy, it’s one of the best YSL releases in recent years and well worth the extra expense compared to its more mainstream releases.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo EDP

SUITS YOU: Is YSL Tuxedo one of your best patchouli fragrances?

CHANEL COROMANDEL EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

From the French luxury brand’s Les Exclusifs de Chanel Collection, this 2016 release is inspired by Coco’s love for Chinese Coromandel lacquered screens, which decorated her Paris apartment. From top to bottom, it presents an enchantingly exotic take on patchouli.

The citrus opening – bitter orange and neroli – leads the way to deep and dark patchouli. It has delicious chocolate accents without entering gourmand territory. There are light floral touches (rose, orris root, jasmine) in the background. The exotic vibe is heightened with an amber accord featuring vanilla-ish benzoin and spicy frankincense.

It’s also available in a parfum concentration with added musk.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MOONLIGHT PATCHOULI EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Gosh, isn’t this 2016 addition to the French luxury jewellery brand’s top-quality Collection Extraordinaire a treat!

It opens with a deep and woody interpretation of patchouli spiced with the warmth of cacao. Bulgarian rose and iris contribute floral powderiness, while the drydown amplifies the sensual vibe with a combo of smooth leather and suede. There’s also a hint of fruitiness in the background.

From the above-mentioned cacao and fruity notes, it might sound like a gourmand, but Sonia Constant is too skilled a perfumer to go the obvious route. It’s also one of the best-value private range releases around.

**KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP* (PASCAL GAURIN)**

The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.

This 2017 release from The Cellars Collection is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The refined sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.

One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag.

**BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

DIOR PATCHOULI IMPÉRIAL EDP (FRANÇOIS DEMACHY)

This 2018 addition to the upmarket Maison Dior range goes the oriental route.

The barely there citrus intro – mandarin orange and bergamot – quickly gives way to the warm spice of cinnamon and coriander. It comes into its own in the drydown. Patchouli, dusty and dark, is given extra oomph with smoke, an amber accord (featuring pronounced accents of benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla) and creamy sandalwood.

Although it doesn’t quite nail its inspiration – “like entering the fragrant back room of an apothecary in Asia,” according to the brand’s website – that doesn’t stop it from being beautifully mysterious and an essential addition to the best patchouli fragrances.

CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO PATCHOULI NOIR EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

Before the global director of Dubai-based CPL Aromas launched his own company, Christian Provenzano Parfums, in 2018, he’d produced highly regarded work for brands such as Agent Provocateur, Jo Malone, Kilian, Penhaligon’s and Boadicea The Victorious.

Part of his launch collection, Patchouli Noir opens with red fruit and pink peppercorn notes. It’s sweet, sharp and spicy at the same time. Turkish rose and osmanthus develop the fruitiness of the intro with their floral intensity. True to the name of this scent, the patchouli is dark and earthy, with cistus labdanum and an amber accord bolstering its depth.

I’m not surprised it won the Best Niche Fragrance Award at the Pure Beauty Global Awards 2018. Patchouli Noir Intense, from the brand’s Universal Collection, is also worth sniffing out.

MONTBLANC EXPLORER EDP (JÓRDI FERNANDEZ, ANTOINE MAISONDIEU & OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this 2019 release. They were specifically chosen for their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernández ).

The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest. The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and the patchouli-like synthetic Akigalawood.

I won’t get bogged down in the debate on whether this scent is a Creed Aventus clone. I can tell you, though, it’s a highly versatile crowd-pleaser.

BVLGARI SPLENDIDA PATCHOULI TENTATION EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)

The luxury Italian jewellery brand can always be relied upon to deliver seemingly effortless elegance.

This 2020 addition to their Splendida range does that with a trio of layered patchouli in the expert hands of Sophie Labbé, who also created Jasmin Noir and Tubereuse Mystique for the company.

The opening is clean and pure, thanks to patchouli oil from Flores (an Indonesian island) and softly fruity peach. The powderiness of the peach evolves with orris. The iris root is perfectly paired with patchouli at this stage for an earthy effect. The drydown displays the musky side of patchouli together with white musk.

It’s officially a female fragrance, but 100% unisex, so don’t miss out on this smooth and artful beauty.

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

Let’s put aside the name, shall we? And savour this 2020 release that’s apparently inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden. You’re not the only one trying to picture it.

It’s all earthy spiciness in the opening, with notes of black pepper and turmeric grabbing the attention. Three varieties of rose – May, Turkish, Bulgarian – display the queen of florals at her most voluptuous and diverse. Rose-patchouli is a popular combo and the herb gives this scent a dirty, musky edge.

Not as wild as its name suggests (where are the prickly thorns?), it’s nevertheless beautiful stuff.

EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP* (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

When I first saw the name of the latest release (2021) from the Paris-based niche brand, my mind started racing in all sorts of boozy, gourmand-ish directions.

Perhaps that’s why I didn’t click with this EDP from the Iconoclaste Collection at first. I was expecting something decadent, whereas it’s more about connecting with the joys of nature. Now that I’ve spent more time with it, I’m loving its distinctive simplicity.

It opens with fresh ‘n spicy notes of bergamot and ginger. And then gets really interesting with a large dose of Akigalawood. Perfumer Jordi Fernández maximises the spicy-musky patchouli qualities of the synthetic Givaudan captive molecule with impressive results.

A fresh rendition of vetiver and cedar closes the tight and cohesive composition with style.

*All these best patchouli fragrances available at Skins Cosmetics.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

Are those tastes reflected in the perfumes for Aqualis?

How have you ensured Aqualis stands out in such a busy niche market?

Which niche brands inspire you?

How many people are in your company?

The Harrods deal is a huge coup. How did that come about?

What’s been your hardest (and most valuable) business lesson so far?

Talking about your South African background, your heritage is proving to be a rich source of material. Was that intentional, or did it kind of happen along the way?

How do you brief your perfumers?

You mentioned Egoli when you were here in February. Tell us about that.

A brand is always a work in progress. What do you want to improve on Aqualis?

Running a perfume business takes a lot of cash. If I can ask the rude question, how have you done it?

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LE LABO BERGAMOTE 22 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

LE LABO JASMIN 17 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)

LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)

LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP (ANNICK MÉNARDO)

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)

LE LABO OUD 27 EDP (VINCENT SCHALLER)

LE LABO ANOTHER 13 EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)

LE LABO SANTAL 33 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

LE LABO LYS 41 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

LE LABO THÉ NOIR 29 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

LE LABO YLANG 49 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

LE LABO BAIE 19 EDP

LE LABO THÉ MATCHA 26 EDP

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You are very in demand and are increasingly referred to as a “star perfumer”. How do you cope with the pressure and expectation?

I get the impression you’re a perfectionist.

Apparently, you used to struggle with chemistry, an integral part of perfumery. How’s that part of the equation going now?

You make it sound too easy, Quentin…

Which would come from experience and intuition…

Let’s discuss the hugely successful Parfums de Marly Delina range. How much freedom were you given to create these fragrances?

Delina is powerful stuff. Was that part of the brief?

How did you ensure Delina Exclusif is different from the original while keeping certain elements?

I see you used Evernyl in the creation of Delina Exclusif. Did you prefer to use this synthetic moss rather than real oak moss?

I’m enjoying the relative softness of La Rosée with its aquatic vibe. What was the idea there?

Are you surprised by the success of the range?

All these Delina fragrances feature Turkish rose. Is this an easy ingredient to work with for you?

Do you have a favourite ingredient to work with?

Are you working on the next addition to the Delina range already? I know these things are confidential…

If I read correctly, you turn 40 next year.

Hope it was a good celebration. Does it mean anything to you, as you approach that landmark year? Is this a time of reflection for you?

I can relate. It can keep you up at night, all those questions, especially when there are no answers.

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PERFUMER

SO WHAT DOES GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIÒ EDP SMELL LIKE?

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PERFUMER

SO WHAT DOES INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS SMELL LIKE?

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ABOUT THE PERFUMER

SO WHAT DOES KAJAL LAMAR EDP SMELL LIKE?

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You’re self-taught. How many years did it take before you knew the essentials?

Musk seems to be one of your favourites. Why does it appeal so much to you?

You mentioned amber. There’s a lot of confusion about it…

Perfumery relies on a mix of naturals and synthetics…

And it’s great…

How do you deal with the idea that “natural is best”?

You’ve created more than 150 perfumes in your career. Have you ever struggled with self-doubt or to come up with ideas or inspiration?

Hermès 24 Faubourg is one of my favourite creations of yours. It’s such a beautiful classic…

Let’s talk about one of your more recent creations, Maison Rebatchi Musc Panache EDP [2019] which, coincidentally, I’ve just received from the company. Love its soft powderiness…

Do you have lots of these ideas waiting to be realised?

Is that how you find inspiration often? By travelling?

Are there certain compromises you’re not willing to make when working with a client?

Going back to fruity fragrances, I discovered one of your less well-known creations from 2008, Adidas Natural Vitality EDT, on Fragrantica.

You’re heading for 50 years in the industry in 2023. What’s been the biggest change in that time?

What one thing would you like to see change in the industry?

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**KILIAN BAMBOO HARMONY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)**

LE LABO THÉ **29 EDP* (FRANK VOELKL)**

**VILHELM PARFUMERIE DEAR POLLY EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME **EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)**

**FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE* (PIERRE BOURDON)**

**LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)**

**NASOMATTO SILVER MUSK EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

**CREED LOVE IN BLACK EDP* (OLIVIER CREED & ERWIN CREED)**

MAISON CRIVELLI IRIS MALIKHÂN **EDP* (MARC ZINI)**

**MUGLER A*MEN EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)**

**LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP* (ANNICK MENARDO)**

**ORTO PARISI BRUTUS PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)**

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MASCULIN PLURIEL EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

**KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP* (PASCAL GAURIN)**

**BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)**