Category: FRAGRANCE

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Electimuss: Interview With Creative Director Claire Sokell Thompson

Electimuss - Claire Sokell Thompson

If you spend a fair amount of time on Instagram, you’ll have seen the stop-scrolling majestic bottles. But as this interview with Claire Sokell Thompson, Electimuss creative and communications director, will show you, there’s more to the London-based niche brand than eye candy.

Electimuss Black Caviar Parfum

The company was founded by Luke Granger and Jason Collison in 2015, with the myths, legends and history of ancient Rome as a rich source of inspiration (Electimuss means “to choose the best” in Latin).

Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Box

While the brand has been around for seven years, it’s only recently that Electimuss has really started to take off. Its growing popularity is based on high-quality juices by perfumers who know how to give their creations luxurious oomph. See my reviews of Black Caviar, Mercurial Cashmere and Vici at the end of this interview.

Claire Sokell Thompson joined the team in 2020 and her influence can be seen in the house’s more cohesive creative direction. In this interview we chat about inspiration, perfumer briefings and 2023 projects.

Electimuss Sample

Let’s get the obvious question out of the way first. Those gorgeous bottles, Who designed them?

Thank you so much! We get a lot of positive feedback on them. They are a masterpiece of many hands and, in fact, we’re working on a new evolution at the moment.

The brand launched in 2015 and has really made an impression over the last few years. It’s not as easy as it looks, though, so tell us about a specific problem Electimuss had to overcome. 

In terms of our brand, we’re so lucky we’ve had so much support and passion from our customer base and retailers. The most difficult issues for us, like many of our compatriot brands, have been Covid and Brexit related in terms of supply, logistics and distribution.

Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Parfum

Did you know Jason Collison and Luke Granger before you joined the team in 2020? 

No, I didn’t. I met them before lockdown early 2020. They were aware of my work creating and launching Thameen and brought me onto the team to steer the brand into a new phase of growth.

“They were aware of my work creating and launching Thameen and brought me onto the team to steer the brand into a new phase of growth.”

Who does what in the scheme of things? And what are your backgrounds?

We are a close hands-on team. Luke and Jason were previously Boadicea The Victorious, so our collective experience is niche luxury fragrance.

Luke is the founder and runs logistics, warehouse and supply side of the business and we work together on product innovation. Jason’s business development and sales, and my areas are creative direction, perfume and new product development, communications and digital.

Electimuss Box & Ribbon

Ancient Rome is rich with inspiration. Have you become a bit of a history/mythology buff in the process? 

Totally! I must confess that mythology was already one of my passions. I love exploring Greek, Nordic, Roman and Chinese mythology and seeing similar narratives and moralities pop up across different cultures throughout the centuries.

There is so much material to enjoy. Stephen Fry’s Mythos is an epic and very accessible introduction to the entirety of Greek mythology, on which most of Roman mythology was based. But there are interesting contemporary takes on the classics, like the incredibly talented Madeline Miller and Kamila Shamsie, plus great podcasts like Myths and Legends.

IMAGE: Penguin Books.

However, it isn’t just mythology, it’s also Roman history that’s so fascinating. We draw inspiration from both.

One of the things that separates Electimuss from an increasingly crowded niche sector is that all the scents are pure parfum concentration…

Yes, we’re unbending on that. Our name is a Latin portmanteau meaning “to choose the best” and that tenet runs through everything we do: the perfumers we work with, the ingredients and the concentrations.

We’re aware that luxury fragrance comes at a price, but our mission is to deliver the highest quality performance for the price. The budget on our perfumes far exceeds other brands in the same price band and with very high inclusion. So although our perfumes are not cheap, one spray goes a long way.

Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Parfum

How did the collaborations with master perfumer Christian Provenzano (Pomona Vitalis, Persephone’s Patchouli, Capua) come about?

We’ve worked with Christian on eight of our perfumes now.

My idea for the Consort Collection was a collaborative creative approach. I wanted to work with one central note and explore it through two different lenses on a shared story.

So the story of Pluto, king of the underworld, and Persephone, daughter of the goddess of nature, was explored with patchouli representing the confluence of the underworld and earth’s surface. We worked with Christian Provenzano (pictured, below) and Kèvin Mathys for this new pair of perfumes.

IMAGE: Christian Provenzano Parfums.

Black Caviar from the Nero Collection is one of my personal favourites and very much captures what the brand is about… 

It is one of our first perfumes and one of our bestsellers. It typifies what Electimuss is good at: creating original perfumes with gravitas. Our ambition is to create modern masterpieces that will become iconic classics of the future.

Talk us through a typical briefing of one of your selected perfumers. 

It usually starts with a muse. For example, currently my muse is Venus for the next fragrance, so I explore all different aspects of Venus, from her different depictions through mythology to the way she has been represented in literature, art, music and more.

CREATIVE EXPRESSION: Sofia Bardelli created Mercurial Cashmere for Electimuss. IMAGE: Accademia del Profumo.

From there I either develop a conceptual brief around a specific ingredient (like the two patchouli perfumes launched earlier this year) or a map of scent references I’m interested in exploring, inspired by our muse.

The brief can include paintings, music, colours, stories and ingredient references. But we never want to be prescriptive – the key is creating a concept and an anchor for creative exploration.

“We never want to be prescriptive – the key is creating a concept and an anchor for creative exploration.”

Each perfumer we work with explores the brief in different ways: some like to talk, others to be more straight to creation to express their response. We then assess and evolve the fragrances together.

From the website, I see you’re about to launch a new collection. Tell us more about that please. 

Our new launch is Travel Atomisers. We are working some of our best-selling perfumes into travel size with a stunning purple and gold atomiser.

IMAGE: Electimuss.

And we are due to launch Hair Mist early ’23. With the launch of three new beautiful perfumes next year, we have been busy creating. We’re so excited about these scents.

With the brand’s luxury credentials, there’s increasing pressure to be eco-friendly too. What progress is Electimuss making on that front?

Good question and on our minds constantly. It’s tough to make real change in this business. Sustainability runs from back to front end and we are making progress. Some solutions we look at seem sustainable, such as refillables, but when you pull them apart, they actually aren’t any more sustainable. And we aren’t interested in sustainable messaging, our focus is affecting real change.

Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Box

Our ingredients are sustainable and vegan. We offset on delivery and logistics. On the packaging side, we are currently working on innovating the interiors of our boxes, but with luxury products keeping the product safe and pristine is paramount to customer satisfaction, so it takes innovation to find the solution.

3 ELECTIMUSS FRAGRANCES TO TRY NOW

All these perfumes from the Nero Collection capture what Electimuss is about in different and delightful ways.

ELECTIMUSS BLACK CAVIAR PARFUM (MARCO GENOVESE)

To call this 2019 release “intriguing” would be a massive understatement.

Taking its inspiration from the decadence of emperors Severus and Nero, it opens with the saltiness of caviar. The savoury gourmand note is made even more appealing with a chic coolness, as if on ice. A note of animalic oud adds to the richness. There’s aromatics aplenty from notes of rosemary, sage and lavender, with the latter standing out with its fresh and spicy, almost aniseed-y facets. The woodiness of vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss is maximised in the drydown.

From start to finish, it’s delicious stuff.

Electimuss Black Caviar Parfum

ELECTIMUSS MERCURIAL CASHMERE PARFUM (SOFIA BARDELLI)

An apt name for a fragrance that changes from the light and bright to the sensual and deep.

This 2021 release starts out in fresh and spicy mode with notes of Madagascan pink pepper, cardamom and Italian bergamot. The powder of iris and violet is paired with the white floral intensity of tuberose and the slight saltiness of a note of ambergris. And what about the cashmere? In perfumery, this refers to the synthetic Cashmeran (also known as blonde woods). It’s at its musky-woody best here. There’s more sweetness (just enough) from notes of caramel, vanilla and tonka bean. I don’t pick up much of the listed oud note, but that’s just me being fussy.

Named for the Roman god Mercury, it might imply a rapid change in mood from charming to nasty, but no worries, this beauty is definitely about the former.

Electimuss Mercurial Cashmere Parfum

ELECTIMUSS VICI LEATHER PARFUM (JULIEN RASQUINET)

Julien Rasquinet is admired for his work for niche brands such as Amouage, Zoologist and Masque Milano. His first fragrance for Electimuss, a 2022 release, takes its cue from the Latin phrase “veni, vidi, vici” (“I came, I saw, I conquered”).

An elegantly cosy scene is set with the spicy and powdery warmth of cinnamon. There are subtle touches of wormwood and pink pepper in the background. A leather accord-tuberose combo gives the composition a subtly sweet animalic quality without the white floral dominating things, while the musky amber accord in the drydown maintains the comfy ambience.

*Electimuss samples, Mercurial Cashmere and Black Caviar kindly gifted to me by the brand.

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The Ghost Perfumer (The Perfume Book You Should Read This Year): An Interview With Author Gabe Oppenheim

The Ghost Perfumer

Every now and then, a book comes along that changes your perspective of an industry and some of the players within it. The Ghost Perfumer: Creed, Lies, & The Scent of the Century by Gabe Oppenheim (Solicitude) is that kind of read.

The Ghost Perfumer

In a punchy and page-turning style with well-researched detail, Gabe Oppenheim gives credence to the rumours that have been swirling for years on online forums regarding Creed’s claims that the niche fragrance house has been producing fragrances since 1760 and for an impressive array of celebrities and dignitaries along the way, including King Alfonso XIII of Spain and Cary Grant.

The Ghost Perfumer - Gabe Oppenheim

But more importantly, the writer reveals how Olivier Creed, heir to the Creed clothing business, passed off many high-profile Creed releases as his own creations by taking advantage of the insecurities of a trio of perfumers.

Most of The Ghost Perfumer tells the story of Pierre Bourdon, creator of classics such as Yves Saint Laurent Kouros EDT, Davidoff Cool Water EDT, Montblanc Individuel EDT and Frédéric Malle French Lover EDP. And now acknowledged as the master behind several Creeds, including Fleurs de Bulgarie EDP, Green Irish Tweed EDP, Erolfa EDP, Millésime Impérial EDP, Silver Mountain Water EDP, Spring Flower EDP and Original Santal EDP.

And what of Creed Aventus, “the scent of the century”? Jean-Christophe Hérault gets long-last recognition for being the true talent behind this decade-defining and much-copied perfume. Julien Rasquinet also gets credit for creating Creed Royal Oud EDP and Creed Fleurs de Gardenia EDP, among others. Both these perfumers were students of Pierre Bourdon, which just adds to the intricacies and intrigues of the intertwined narratives explored by Gabe Oppenheim.

The Ghost Perfumer - Creed Aventus EDP

In what could have been a mere hatchet-job on a nasty character, Gabe Oppenheim places the behaviour of Olivier Creed and Pierre Bourdon in the context of an industry that’s built on fantasy, obfuscation and sometimes questionable business practises (for example, the rampant cloning of successful scents).

In this interview he chats about how The Ghost Perfumer come about, the workings of the industry and meeting Pierre Bourdon.

The Ghost Perfumer

You’re known as a contributor to various magazines and author of books. How was this Creed project different to your other writing projects?

In many ways, it felt very similar – when I covered boxing, there was always a narrative that promoters were trying to push about their fighters, about upcoming match-ups. This was often hype that had very little relation to the reality of the boxer’s preparation or the event itself.

And so it struck me as kind of familiar when I saw that in the scent industry, the stories told about the supposed perfumers and their inspirations were generally cant and utterly apart from the truth of how fragrance is created.

“The Ghost Perfumer was different from some of my sports coverage because there’s a degree of truth in sports that the arts just cannot provide.” 

That said, The Ghost Perfumer different from some of my sports coverage because there’s a degree of truth in sports that the arts just cannot provide. A baseball score, barring any cheating, is an objective measure of who was better on the day. A knockout is unimpeachably the triumph of one combatant over another.

And yet in fragrance, even compositions that win briefs can’t necessarily be said to be better formulas than those that lost. A scent wins in the eyes of an evaluator or creative director. Or even in a panel test. But all those judgments are subjective, and runner-up scents can end up on the market under another name and prove themselves superior to those frags they lost to in an initial brief.

Was there a particular event that sparked this project?

A lot of events. I was tired of covering combat sport, generally, and I was curious about the creators of scents. I had actually interviewed the duo behind the Imaginary Authors brand while I was still working on the fights. I wore their A City on Fire scent to Jay-Z’s office building once, back when his company was really trying to build up a boxing promotion.

IMAGE: Imaginary Authors.

But perhaps the final trigger was this zest I had for packing a new fragrance every time I travelled around the world to cover a fight. I was wearing these fascinating scents on press row in arenas the world over. And by 2019, I realised I was being somewhat myopic – why not figure out who had concocted these potions and why and what they were like beyond their laboratory orgues?

I knew there was good nonfiction to be found there, even if I didn’t yet have a clue as to what focus a book might take.

What were your thoughts on Creed fragrances before you started the book? Were you aware of the rumours about the dates of the releases and their supposed celebrity wearers?

I’d always found the celebrity claims a little preposterous. And I’d always liked the scents very much – I wore Green Irish Tweed, Bois du Portugal, Royal Oud and Aventus regularly. Over time I took a liking to Viking. I’d tried Tabarome and found it lacking as a tobacco scent.

I think the only info I had about the reality of their creation was what Michael Edwards and Luca Turin had discovered prior to my breaking into the field – that somehow Pierre Bourdon had had a hand in making Green Irish Tweed. But that was all I knew.

The Ghost Perfumer - Creed Green Irish Tweed EDP

And so I just kept trying to reach out to Bourdon, despite his self-imposed exile from Parisian perfumer society and resultant residence up in Normandy. It’s why Pierre should get so much credit for my own reportage – if he hadn’t decided one day, many months into the project, to open up to me, I may not have dug too deeply into just how Creed had ostensibly generated those aforementioned scents I so enjoyed wearing.

What were you most surprised to discover in your research?

That Pierre Bourdon’s compensation for creating Creed’s scents consisted almost entirely (if not entirely-entirely) of bespoke suits from Olivier.

“Pierre Bourdon’s compensation for creating Creed’s scents consisted almost entirely (if not entirely-entirely) of bespoke suits from Olivier.” 

What has the official Creed response been to the book since publication?

The new management team that BlackRock [the private equity fund which bought a majority stake in Creed in 2020] installed, a c-suite based in London, was so kind to me when I reached out to them pre-publication, particularly the head of marketing, Giles Gordon. We had a brief email correspondence during which Giles first offered to help me with my research and later retracted the offer, but my impression was that the company wanted to be authentic to its actual roots and not just fantasy.

The Ghost Perfumer - Creed Original Santal EDP

And whether I forced Giles’ hand or not, that assessment has been born out – Creed has published two large magazine volumes since The Ghost Perfumer’s release that update the Creed family’s tale, align it with my own – the first said Olivier began trying to make the haberdashery into a perfumery beginning with fits and starts in the 1960s and the second revised the dates to the 1970s.

Which is truthful: the Creeds were not in the business of fragrance creation before then – and until Pierre became ghost-writer in the early 1980s, Creed’s small-batch scents were insignificant efforts, secondary to tailoring, and retailed primarily in small nooks, like the perfume shop Soleil d’Or in Lille, France.

“Until Pierre became ghost-writer in the early 1980s, Creed’s small-batch scents were insignificant efforts, secondary to tailoring.” 

When I finished the book, I envisioned public smashings of Creed fragrances. But that’s just me being childish. What was your intention with it?

Oh, gosh, I had no such vision. I still own Creed scents. I had no intent except to tell a remarkable story – of a man who owned a company and desperately wanted to be a perfumer and of the diffident genius he used to unfairly snatch that mantle.

I wanted people to be fascinated by the interaction of Olivier and Pierre’s careers. A boycott of the company resembling Disco Demolition night was never a consideration for me.

The Ghost Perfumer - Creed Erolfa EDP

Olivier Creed comes across as, let’s be frank, quite predatorial and a nasty piece of work. Did you approach him for comment? And did you ever have any doubts about your characterisation of him?

I approached Creed’s North American arm early in 2020 and they wouldn’t let me speak to Olivier; tentatively, they scheduled me to talk to Erwin [his son] instead. I figured if I did pose real questions to Erwin, however, I might prove my seriousness as a journalist and earn some time with Olivier.

However, someone rather rude in the Creed North America office cancelled my Erwin email-chat last minute, and after that, no matter who I asked at Creed about talking to Olivier or getting clarification on his actual status as a “perfumer” I got no response at all.

“No matter who I asked at Creed about talking to Olivier or getting clarification on his actual status as a ‘perfumer’ I got no response at all.” 

Partly, I don’t think the company, prior to its takeover by BlackRock, believed I had the cojones or skill to depict the company’s actual workings. And after the takeover, I think those newly in charge felt the revelations were inevitable but didn’t want to hasten their release.

The book isn’t only an exposé of Creed, it also reveals the workings of the industry and its incestuous nature. How did you get people to talk to you about what really goes on behind the scenes?

I wrote long and impassioned emails about the need for perfume folks and general readers to get a better sense of who actually formulated the scents they so loved (and sometimes deplored).

It took a long time to convince perfumers – International Fragrance & Flavours didn’t okay my interviews with their folks for many, many months, before Judith Gross [Vice-President Communication & Branding, Scent], whom I love, ultimately realized I was quite serious about creative nonfiction and not just a shill or a parasite.

ALL OKAY: It took many months to get Judith Gross to approve interviews with IFF’s perfumers for research for The Ghost Perfumer. IMAGE: IFF.

And once I had access, I just pressed the perfumers to tell me what they were like, how they had gotten into the business, what they did in their free time. I wanted them to know I saw them as full humans, as artisans of the highest order whose stories could hold as much fascination as painters’ or musicians’ or boxers’.

Still, there are perfumers whose entourages still never let me get close enough to prove any of that – [Jacques] Cavallier, [Alberto] Morillas, [Michel] Almairac. Those are perhaps the top three who didn’t care for such an examination by this American interloper (or maybe Almairac’s son Benjamin never even put the request to his Pops – dunno quite why that never came together).

The part where you meet Pierre Bourdon at his home is particularly touching. Although he was certainly exploited by Oliver Creed, you’re careful not to paint him as a hapless victim…

Bourdon doesn’t view himself as a victim, really. The man got to practice an art whose ideas and concepts he treasures. Maybe he always detested some of the business practices. But the man took his love of Proust and applied the author’s passion for creation – for showing the work of creation in the creation itself – to perfumery. What could have satisfied such a scholarly and thoughtful reader more?

The Ghost Perfumer - Meeting Pierre Bourdon

NORMANDY RENDEZVOUS: Pierre Bourdon in the second Cabinet of Curiosities Room in his home. IMAGE: THE GHOST PERFUMER.

How did you earn Pierre Bourdon’s trust to get him to reveal so much to you?

Through many emails sent to the address he shared with his wife, Kathy, who always seemed to think me a decent sort – but really, through the imploring of Jean-Claude Ellena, who convinced Pierre first that I was serious about my own craft, writing, and could perhaps do justice to Pierre’s.

Let’s talk about Jean-Christophe Hérault and his role in the creation of the mega-hit Creed Aventus. He was very forthcoming at first and then the shutters came down. Why the change in behaviour?

Probably a sense that he had revealed enough to hurt his career and didn’t want to exacerbate things further – I say, probably, because Hérault might dismiss that without offering a better answer.

Gabe Oppenheim - Jean-Christophe Hérault

Regardless, he seems glad now that The Ghost Perfumer was written, that he’s being credited finally with the massive success he engineered. We text each other every now and again, and we’re certainly on friendly terms, for which I’m grateful. He has a signed copy of the book, and I own a good deal of his fragrant output. He has been nothing but kind to me of late.

I don’t blame him for not quite getting at first that my intentions, in terms of attributing work to its rightful creators, were more pure than not, and that I had the gumption to follow this process through to the end.

The Ghost Perfumer - Creed Aventus EDP

You also delve into the Julien Rasquinet creations that were passed off as Olivier Creed’s. Did he actually create any of the other Creed releases that are attributed to him on sites such as Fragrantica?

Olivier was a great creative director – he knew what sort of scent would beguile men (or, at least, he picked up in the 1960s and 1970s these notions). So Olivier can be credited with choosing the best scents, mostly, of those perfumers who did the actual technical work.

Olivier, however, not doing that technical work, cannot fairly be called a perfumer-creator, the definition of which perfumers such as [Christophe] Laudamiel and Calice Becker make rather clear not infrequently. I admire their devotion to getting the bylines in this messy industry cleaned up.

The Ghost Perfumer - Julien Rasquinet

The subtitle of the book is Part 1: Creed, Lies, & The Scent of the Century. What’s the next one about?

The next one could involve a certain Berlin-based perfumer who’s a masterful raconteur and a well-known figure to the fragcomm. But it could also be about the pirates of the Dubai clone market or the bizarre way in which Caron has survived several strange owners (it’s now a property of a Rothschild).

Or perhaps it will be about none of these things. I’ve made a good many false starts in the last few months. But they aren’t all for naught – at least one will hopefully become a full-length book.

IMAGE: Caron.

And I would tell perfume-prose fans, if you like my nonfiction, I think you’ll like my inventions, too – and in fact, I’ve been working also on a novel and perhaps that will come out in between perfume-focused books, first. I’ve written about 4 000 compelling words so far for that project. Maybe I’ll never see it to the end, but for now, I’m just thinking, 96 000 equally satisfying words to go…

The Ghost Perfumer: Creed, Lies, & The Scent of the Century is available worldwide on Amazon.

Gabe Oppenheim - The Ghost Perfumer Cover

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Best Aldehyde Fragrances: From The Classics to Thoroughly Modern

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Comme des Garçons 2 EDP

One of the mostly widely used ingredients in perfumery, aldehydes are probably also the most misunderstood. Chanel No 5 is the most famous example (its creator Ernest Beaux famously over-dosed the original parfum version in 1921), but it was not the first. That honour belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or from 1905.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Chanel No 5 Parfum

IMAGE: Chanel.

Aldehydes feature in a veritable roll-call of all-time classics, including Carven Ma Griffe Parfum (1946), Rochas Madame Rochas EDT (1960), Hermès Calèche EDT (1961), Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche EDT (1971) and Dior Dune EDT (1991).

Without getting too technical, in perfumery, aldehydes refer to a large family of compounds, such as heptanal, octanal, nonanol and decanol. Some of them are naturals, while many others have been synthesised in labs.

Depending on which one is used and how they are used, they can give compositions a clean, citric, soapy, laundry-fresh, waxy, between-the-sheets sensual, even metallic vibe. They are particularly useful in helping give top and floral notes extra sparkle and pop.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT

SPICE AND ALL THINGS NICE: With its lighter dose, Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT also gets a nod in this best aldehyde fragrances round-up.

Aren’t aldehydes old-fashioned? Firstly, I have no problem with smelling old-fashioned / vintage-y / mature. But if you insist, they can also be used in a thoroughly modern way.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best aldehyde fragrances?

LANVIN ARPÈGE EDP (PAUL VACHER & ANDRÉ FRAYSSE)

Widely acknowledged as one of the perfume greats and justifiably spoken about in hallowed tones, Lanvin Arpège was the second fragrance release from the Paris-based designer Jeanne Lanvin (the house’s debut from 1924, My Sin, also features aldehydes).

The designer’s daughter Marguerite loved playing arpeggios and inspired the name of this 1927 release. Almost a century and several reformulations later, it retains its majestic beauty in a complex yet understated style.

From the aldehydic freshness of the opening, with subtle nuances of peach, honeysuckle and citrus, through to the delicate florals (notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, among others) and amber accord that follow, I can see how it earned its place in The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2005.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Lanvin Arpege EDP

ELIZABETH ARDEN BLUE GRASS EDP

I thought I knew the American brand pretty well until I came across this 1936 release hidden away on the budget shelves, as one does. It very much set the tone for the releases that followed: accessible and affordable appeal.

Aldehydes give the opening floral notes (lavender, rose, jasmine) plenty of ping and pop. Okay, I’ll stop all this alliteration nonsense now. Notes of lily, clove and (the rarely used) laurel take it in a spicy direction, with woody depth from vetiver and sandalwood in the drydown.

It’s a great everyday choice with a touch of elegance.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass EDP

ESTÉE LAUDER WHITE LINEN EDP (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

So why does Estée Lauder have such a special place in the fragrance memories of so many of our mothers and grandmothers? This 1978 release will tell you all you need to know. The company’s founder wanted something fresh and crisp, à la white sheets, and that’s exactly what perfumer Sophia Grojsman gave her, with sensuality to spare.

It makes a cool statement from the get-go, thanks to notes of Bulgarian rose, jasmine and muguet wrapped in soapy aldehydes. Violet and orris do their powdery thing, with earthy support from vetiver and moss in the drydown.

While it’s been reformulated, it has lost none of its elegance. I also recommend Estée Lauder Knowing EDP for its richer and heavier 1980s-style spin on the theme.

IMAGE: Estée Lauder.

GLORIA VANDERBILT EDT (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)

What gets me going even more than a luxurious fragrance? A cheap, cheap fragrance that smells luxurious. Launched in 1982, the debut scent from the American fashion designer (celeb trivia aside: you might know her son, Anderson Cooper, from CNN) was created by none other than the great Sophia Grojsman (Lancôme Trésor EDP, Estée Lauder White Linen EDP, Frédéric Malle Outrageous EDP).

Gloria Vanderbilt EDT opens with aldehydes on high and a sliver of pineapple in the background. Then it’s the turn of a floral bouquet that includes tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and, in particular, carnation. The drydown is a creamy joy, with sandalwood, vanilla and cinnamon notes.

This EDT fades fairly fast, but for the price, top up as you go.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Gloria Vanderbilt EDT

CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.

Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in several ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased aldehydes, with their fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.

In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.

Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Chanel No 5 EDP

ELIZABETH TAYLOR WHITE DIAMONDS EDT (CARLOS BENAÏM)

Although she’s no longer with us, Elizabeth Taylor remains the grande dame of celebrity fragrances. This 1991 release is the perfect example of why the genre has much to offer, contrary to the snobs who say otherwise. An all-time classic, it was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2009, the first celebrity fragrance to receive that recognition.

It opens with the distinctive soapiness of aldehydes mingling with the spiciness of lily and honeyed citrus of neroli. As with many perfumes from that era, there’s a complex bouquet of florals, including notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang and narcissus, to lose yourself in. But the tuberose still shines through with its narcotic qualities.

Settling on a base of musk and sandalwood, it’s gorgeously glamorous and way more expensive smelling than its price suggests.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds EDT

COMME DES GARÇONS 2* (MARK BUXTON)

British perfumer Mark Buxton announced his prodigious talent when he created the Japanese fashion company’s eponymous debut in 1994. True to the brand’s avant-garde aesthetic, his 1999 creation, Comme des Garçons 2, is a brilliant display of intriguing contrasts.

With its combo of aldehydes, angelica root and magnolia, the intro is dazzlingly fresh yet full of character. A synthetic note of ink reveals the scent’s darker side and cumin adds warm spiciness to the distinctive blend. The smokiness of incense and vetiver is paired with the muskiness of a labdandum-dominant amber accord in the drydown.

If you still think aldehydes are old-fashioned, this modern classic will put you right. Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT, also created by Buxton, is worth checking out for its lighter dose of aldehydes mixed with woods and spice.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Comme des Garçons 2 EDP

CONTRASTS: Is Comme des Garçons 2 EDP one of your best aldehyde fragrances?

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE Edp* (PIERRE BOURDON)

It doesn’t get any better than Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, one of the launch releases from the year 2 000 that established the Paris-based niche house’s impeccable credentials.

This creation opens with the floral richness of ylang-ylang. Notes of violet and rose lay the powdery path for the headline iris. Iris can be a bit of an ice queen, but I find this take welcoming and embracing once you get to know her. There’s also an aldehydic element, but it never steals the show. It gives the composition a classic feel.

Warm and smooth sandalwood defines the drydown, with musk and tonka bean lingering sensually on the skin. What a treat!

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Frederic Malle Iris Poudre EDP

LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)

Le Labo Neroli 36 was one of the launch fragrances from the NYC-based niche brand, but doesn’t get as much attention as, say, Santal 33 or Bergamote 22. Which is a pity, because this 2006 release is enchanting stuff from the first spray.

The title note brings on the sun with its honey-ish qualities. It’s amplified by notes of mandarin orange with a slight aldehydic vibe. The floral mood continues with notes of jasmine and rose, fresh and gently sweet. Musk and vanilla mingle in the warm drydown of this thoroughly cheerful composition.

Want even more aldehydes? Then look out for the brand’s city exclusive (Dallas) Le Labo Aldehyde 44 EDP.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Le Labo Neroli 36 EDP

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP*

This 2009 release epitomises the Swedish niche brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.

There’s a big blast of fresh and soapy aldehydes in the opening. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.

With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Byredo Blanche EDP

CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.

It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau epitomises casual chic.

The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Chanel No L'Eau EDT

GUERLAIN MUSC NOBLE EDP (THIERRY WASSER)

Officially, this 2018 release from the French brand’s top-notch Les Absolus d’Orient Collection opens with notes of pink peppercorn, saffron and geranium, but I get a thoroughly addictive and enticing metallic whiff. Aldehydes alert! What a start!

The real focus of the fragrance is musk and rose, and what a wonderful combo it is with its sensual and sophisticated powderiness. It gathers depth with the drydown which features an amber accord and cedarwood. Cistus adds an animalic leather undercurrent.

With its metallic vibe, this is bold and distinctive stuff. I wouldn’t want it any other way! Guerlain Encens Mythique EDP, also from the same range, features a beautiful blend of aldehydes, incense and ambergris.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Guerlain Musc Noble EDP

DIPTYQUE FLEUR DE PEAU EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

Fleur de Peau triumphed in the Perfume Extraordinaire and Best New Women’s Fragrance categories at the 2019 Fragrance Foundation Awards in London. One sniff of this EDP and you’ll understand why.

The fresh and rosy accents of pink peppercorns opens the scent and then it’s the turn of iris, with its cool powderiness, on beautiful display. But what really makes this fragrance special is its use of Ambrettolide, the musky molecule known for its smooth, pear-ish qualities, in combination with clean musks.

Olivier Pescheux tells me he used aldehydes C-12 MNA and C12-Laurique in this creation. I reckon you’ll smell them in action in the way they lift this 2018 release to luxuriously romantic stuff.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Diptyque Fleur de Peau EDP

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN 724 EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

The Paris-based perfumer hasn’t produced something new for quite some time (the 2021 Cologne Forte releases were variations on the best-selling Aqua range). His much-publicised appointment as Dior’s in-house perfumer might have something to do with that.

“It brings a sensation of comfort and protection, like that of cleanliness, that I crave when I’m walking around the city,” he says on the brand website about the recently released 724.

That cleanliness comes through with its opening of aldehydes – softly metallic and fizzy – and citric bergamot from Calabria. There’s more freshness of the airy white floral kind from notes of jasmine absolute from Egypt, seringa (also known as mock orange), freesia and lily-of-the-valley. White musk takes the lead in the drydown, with creamily cosy support from sandalwood.

Okay, so maybe 724 isn’t absolutely new either, as some people are already grumbling online. It sees the nose playing the fresh-floral-musk riff he does to perfection. However, I think it’s a great example of how aldehydes can be used in a timeless and contemporary fashion.

Best Aldehyde Fragrances - Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724 EDP

*All these best aldehyde fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

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Benoît Verdier Interview: “It Was A Bit Of Us Against The World When We Founded Ex Nihilo”

Benoît Verdier

IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

When three Parisians with an impressive array of skills and backgrounds – Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère and Benoît Verdier – got together to start their own company in 2013, there was no guarantee of realising their ambitions. Especially in the ruthlessly competitive and ever-growing niche perfume sector. Nine years later, the trio can justifiably be proud of the success story that is Ex Nihilo.

Benoît Verdier

EX NIHILO FOUNDERS: Benoît Verdier, Olivier Royère and Sylvie Loday. IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

While decidedly French, their approach has a rebellious aspect too. The result? Impactful fragrances that are high on memorability and that put the expertise of the perfumers with which they collaborate (for example, Quentin Bisch, Natalie Gracia-Cetto and Jordi Fernández) in the spotlight.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Outcast Blue EDP

Although the three share certain roles, Provence-born Benoît Verdier has become the public face of the brand. I got to meet him on a visit to South Africa earlier this year when he was touring the stores of the Ex Nihilo distribution partner in the country, Skins Cosmetics, and to launch the house’s latest release, Outcast Blue.

Despite his tight schedule and repeatedly answering the same questions, Benoît Verdier was exuberant and clearly in his element talking about all things Ex Nihilo (and the wider industry). As I wanted to interview him in more detail, we connected again over Zoom a few months later and chatted about risky business, sustainability and new projects.

Benoît Verdier - Skins Cosmetics Johannesburg

What have you been up to since we last met in Johannesburg?

We are in Paris and will start to travel a lot from October. We opened a new flagship store in Taipei and in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and Doha, Qatar, just before the FIFA World Cup. So quite a lot to do.

IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

How did the three of you come together to found Ex Nihilo?

It’s quite a simple story. I studied with Olivier back in the day and we always wanted to create our own company. He was really passionate about fragrances and his grandfather was working in luxury already. His father was a diplomat so he was travelling the world. And he’s also my best friend.

BEST FRAGRANCE FRIEND: Olivier Royère and Benoît Verdier studied together. IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

After our studies, we began working with various companies. Olivier started in L’Oréal as an intern and I was consulting for brands for marketing and luxury stuff, a lot of fragrances. In 2013, we decided it was the moment after our experiences to create the company. And we met Sylvie who was working for Givaudan [the Swiss fragrance and flavour company]. It was quite organic because I used to work with a lot of beauty brands from L’Oréal, Coty, LVMH, etc. Olivier had a background in finance.

GIVAUDAN CONNECTION: Sylvie Loday is one of the co-founders of the brand. IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

And we decided to start from scratch. That’s why we chose the name “Ex Nihilo” [Latin for from or out of nothing] because when you start a new company, you also have the option to buy an old company and to market it and invent storytelling and narratives. But we wanted to start from nothing and create the brand of our dreams with inspiration from every field.

When we started, it was only the three of us plus one person for the production and a trainee for the design. So it was a bit of us against the world and nobody really believed in us [laughs].

Congrats, that means you’re heading for your 10th year in 2023…

Thank you, it’s a long and short story at the same time. We are expanding fairly fast. Our first flagship store in Paris was a risky strategy according to the rent and several other factors. But we said there are so many brands, we have to make a statement, do something different, we have to impress.

“We have to make a statement, do something different, we have to impress” – Benoît Verdier 

It was a good strategy because we gained credibility, attracted the customers and beauty editors – Instagram was not so big then – and potential distributors.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Atlas Fever EDP

Thanks to Fleur Narcotique by Quentin Bisch and The Osmologue [the brand’s innovative personalisation device, only available in flagship stores], we managed to have a great commercial success, so we could continue to grow. But honestly at the beginning it was risky. It looked very romantic, very Parisian, but when you haven’t been paid for a year…

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP

How many people work for the brand now?

Everything is based in Paris where I am currently. At the beginning we were only four and used to work with agencies to out-source things like digital.

We decided to bring everything back in-house. There are 28 of us in Paris, perhaps 30 with interns, for marketing, communications, social media, graphic design, merchandising, packaging design, architecture and, of course, the products.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo The Hedonist EDP

It’s a different configuration to what we started out with. In terms of business, it’s something you can manage better and to be true to what we do, we don’t have to explain ourselves to agencies and there’s more creativity. So we’re working like a little start-up.

Going back to the three of you, who does what?

We try to share. For creation in general, it’s more myself. I share the olfactory creation with Sylvie, as she has the background with Givaudan. Olivier is part of that, but also more the finances, HR and business aspects. Sylvie is more in charge of commercial development, the opening of new stores and corners.

Benoît Verdier - Skins Cosmetics Johannesburg

You seem to be the public face of the brand. Was that planned?

It just happened. As we travel like crazy, we had to split the roles and as I’m in charge of communications and social media, I’m representing [the brand]. We try to share as far as we can, but it’s more my part.

“With Kilian [Hennessy] or Francis [Kurkdjian], it’s rare to see them. So we have an opportunity to be more accessible and spread the passion.” – Benoît Verdier

When I travel, I try to maximise by seeing our clients, our distributors, train our teams. It’s super important to be in the field. With Kilian [Hennessy] or Francis [Kurkdjian], it’s rare to see them, because they are superstars in a way. So we have an opportunity to be more accessible and spread the passion. Otherwise, we are just like other brands and people like that difference.

Benoît Verdier - Skins Cosmetics Johannesburg

REPRESENTING: Benoît Verdier at Skins Cosmetics, Johannesburg.

Let’s talk more about the fragrances specifically. Is there a molecule in common with all the Ex Nihilo fragrances? For example, I’m wearing Iris Porcelana, Midnight Special and Cologne 352. They’re very different, but there seems to be something in common…

You’re pointing out something interesting there. As we are working with so many different characters, perfumers, it is super difficult to keep that red line, or the blue line with Ex Nihilo [the brand’s colour]. So we spend a lot of time thinking about the collection and how we keep our olfactory identity.

There is no common ingredient, but we brief the perfumers the same way. We want something addictive, welcoming, immediate… we love the texture of materials. We want people to smell them.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Cologne 352 EDP

I would say the only common point is the white musks we use when we see all our creations in a big panorama. For the florals to upgrade the bloom and sillage, for the orientals to give comfort and to melt on the skin…

It’s unusual that you haven’t discontinued any fragrances…

Because we are also customers. We know how frustrating that is. So we decided even if only a few people love a fragrance, we will keep it. If you can’t find it on shelf, because of distribution, you’ll find it on the website and we’ll send it directly to your home.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Vetiver Moloko EDP

For example, French Affair by Quentin Bisch is not the most commercial and doesn’t sell like crazy. I love it personally and it’s part of our story.

You’ve recently gone the extrait de parfum route with Fleur Narcotique and Outcast Blue. What was the thinking behind that?

Maybe it’s the answer to things becoming too mainstream, so we try to push the creations to something even more exclusive and using higher concentrations of ingredients. It’s part of the strategy to push to the top.

It was not opportunistic in that sense. Both scents were perfect for it. It was a bit of an exercise in style to see what we can do.

In the portfolio we are also preparing new very concentrated oils for layering. We are also working on exceptional pieces that you can collect, only one fragrance made. Today, the focus is more on the top of the range.

IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

And what about sustainability?

That’s essential. How to be super-luxury and using new Givaudan biotech ingredients. And to be more impressive with the packaging with no plastic and something that would surprise you.

When you see our packaging, it was already in our mind to use this kind of recycled foam to protect the fragrance from the sharks, the heat and the differences in temperature. It was a bit of a plastic garbage before and then it was transformed into a beautiful box, which you can use for a third time – it’s registered powder – in the industry.

The next development is how can we do the same with organic ingredients or even organic waste. But it’s tricky because if you communicate about something coming from waste, you have to convince people it’s worth it.

“If you communicate about something coming from waste, you have to convince people it’s worth it” – Benoît Verdier

For customers, there’s a lot of education, explaining why. In some markets, they’re chasing limited editions, something expensive, something flashy, but they’re not too concerned about ecology. Maybe in the US, UK, northern Europe, yes, France a bit. But in other parts of the world, it’s not such a priority. So we would like to make ecology sexy back [laughs] and desirable, but also luxurious.

For this year’s release, Iris Porcelana, you used a relatively unknown perfumer, Dalia Izem. How did that collaboration come about?

The Initiale Collection is inspired by the most iconic raw ingredients and we’ve been wanting to do an iris fragrance for a long time.

Dalia’s been living in Dubai and she told us she’d be very interested to work with us for the first time. She had many ideas about iris pallida from Tuscany. As you know, it’s an expensive ingredient, which takes about three years to grow, another three years to dry and then the processing of it.

Benoît Verdier - Dalia Izem

IMAGE: Givaudan.

We wanted to avoid the roughness, what you’d smell in a wet garden. On the contrary, we wanted to bring it to something more milky, powdery. She worked on it for about six to seven months. Originally, we were thinking something more classic like iris and leather, but decided to go for something softer, more enveloping and muskier to highlight the iris.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Iris Porcelana EDP

We’ve all smelt many iris fragrances over the years. This release is definitely iris, but distinctive in its own way with that Ex Nihilo touch. Well done!

Thank you. You must also discover our new one, Santal Calling, which we’ve just launched. It’s our interpretation of sandalwood album from Australia, with a milky accord on top and a bit of vanilla bourbon from Madagascar. It was created by Antoine Maisondieu.

IMAGE: Ex Nihilo.

Sounds fantastic. Love the name. Ex Nihilo fragrances always have sexy names. They’re provocative, catchy and memorable.

It’s not 50% of the game, but you have to make a statement, make people react. I have an app on my iPhone with all the names I can find. It can come from a song, pictures from an editorial in a magazine, a movie. I try to make an association that will also make sense with what we create.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Sweet Morphine EDP

There’s two ways to create a fragrance. It can start from the name, an idea we’d like to reflect in the smell. Or it can come directly from a crazy ingredient and then I try to find what could be the story around it.

Normally, when we brief the perfumer, we already have the name. It’s then easier for them to project into a universe. For Santal Calling, it was a lot about the Brancusi Scooter in Paris, very rough, very crafted, very abstract.

We give mood boards, pictures, everything, then the perfumer has the stories, the universe, the name and can work on the fragrance.

Benoît Verdier - Ex Nihilo Gold Immortals EDP

 

 

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Fabrice Pellegrin Interview: “The Perfumer’s Role Is About Being Generous, Exchanging, Sharing And Transmitting Passion. Nothing More”

Fabrice Pellegrin

IMAGE: Firmenich.

Fabrice Pellegrin is one of the most accomplished perfumers of our time. Considering his expertise and achievements, he’s probably also the most unknown outside the industry, in that he truly prefers to be behind the scenes and let his creations speak for themselves.

Fabrice Pellegrin

IMAGE: Firmenich.

The list below of perfumes Fabrice Pellegrin has produced is just a snapshot but will give you an indication of his ingenuity:

+ Mugler Womanity EDP (2010)

+ Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay Cologne (2012)

+ Roberto Cavalli Just Cavalli EDT (2013)

+ Parfums de Marly Safanad EDP (2013)

+ Salvatore Ferragamo Vendemmia EDP (2013)

+ Kilian Smoke For The Soul EDP (2014)

+ Maison Martin Margiela Tea Escape EDT (2014)

+ Valentino Valentina Pink EDP (2015)

+ Atkinson’s Love In Idleness EDP (2015)

+ Lalique L’Insoumis EDT (2016)

+ Azzaro Wanted EDT (2016)

+ Giorgio Armani Privé Vert Malachite EDP (2016)

+ Lancôme Oud Bouquet EDP (2016)

+ Van Cleef & Arpels Bois Doré EDP (2017)

+ Issey Miyake L’Eau de Majeure d’Issey EDT (2017)

+ L’Artisan Parfumeur Au Bord de L’Eau Eau de Cologne (2017)

+ Penhaligon’s Belgravia Chypre EDP (2018)

+ Moschino Toy 2 EDP (2018)

+ Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Eau de Vie EDP (2019)

+ Bentley Momentum Unbreakable EDP (2021)

Fabrice Pellegrin - Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Eau de Vie EDP

Born in the spiritual heartland of French perfumery, Grasse, and from a family immersed in the industry, Fabrice Pellegrin paid his dues over several years.

His fine fragrance career commenced with Mäurer & Wirtz Eruption Man EDT in 1997, followed by perfume projects for brands such as Hermès and L’Occitane.

He’s also the man behind several Diptyque classics. His 2005 creation for the Paris-based niche brand, Do Son EDT, signalled he was a major talent to watch and was followed by Eau Duelle EDT (2010), Volutes EDT (2012), Eau Rose EDT (2012) and Oud Palao EDP (2012), among others.

Fabrice Pellegin - Diptyque Oud Palao EDP

So it’s no surprise Fabrice Pellegrin was awarded the 14th François Coty Prize by his peers in 2021. This prestigious accolade recognised his creative and technical expertise, which reflects his love of naturals. He also bagged Cosmétique Mag’s Perfumer of the Year 2017 and his creation for Roos & Roos, Mentha Religiosa EDP, won the Fragrance Foundation’s best independent perfume award in 2017.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Bentley Momentum Unbreakable EDP

It took several months for this interview to come together and although conducted via email, the Frenchman’s sincerity and humility are evident throughout in his thoughtful answers. He talks about the role of the perfumer, the beauty of simplicity and why naturals are such an integral part of his life.

IMAGE: Firmenich.

Congratulations for your 14th François Coty Prize. It’s not the first time you’ve been recognised for your skills. Do awards matter to you?

Receiving an award is always an honour and, of course, a pleasure. However, being rewarded by the public is far more important. When you compose a fragrance, you don’t think about what you’ll get in return, you think mainly about the pleasure you have in creating it.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Diptyque Florabellio EDT

How did your family background influence you to become a perfumer?

I was born in the hills around Grasse, my home and heart town, and where my family and my vocation come from. I am the son of a perfumer and the grandson of a jasmine-picking grandmother, and a grandfather who was a supplier of naturals.

IMAGE: Firmenich.

I have a very personal relationship with the flowers of Grasse. Rose centifolia and jasmine grandiflorum are two wonderful flowers I’ve always lived with, and they are essential to me today.

Where did you study? And what do you remember most?

I did all my studies in Grasse. I learned the job of being a perfumer at Robertet. There is no better education than learning on the job. The direct contact with professionals allows you to discover all their little secrets I would not have known otherwise.

Fabrice Pellegrin

GREAT LOVE: Fabrice Pellegrin with rose centifolia. IMAGE: Firmenich.

Tell us a bit about your fragrance debut. 

From 1989 to 1995, I concentrated on my classes, learning raw materials, chromatography, distillation, extraction and weighing. From 1995 to 2008, I was with Mane as a junior perfumer. I worked on shampoos, shower gels and soaps, which helped me develop a certain kind of technicality.

And then I won my first fine fragrance project, for Mäurer & Wirtz Eruption Man EDT. I owe this first success to the brand’s chief perfumer, Gerrit van Logchem, who gave me my chance. In 2008, I joined Firmenich, and I am still here today.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Mäurer & Wirtz Eruption Man EDT

IMAGE: Mäurer & Wirtz.

Compared to some “celebrity” perfumers, you seem to be more content keeping a low profile. Is that a correct assessment?

People often say I’m discreet. For me, the perfumer’s role is about being generous, exchanging, sharing and transmitting passion. Nothing more.

You’re Director of Natural Product Innovation at Firmenich. What does that position entail and why are you particularly fond of naturals?

I am from Grasse so, of course, I learned the art of perfume through natural products. Perfumers have always been used to working with natural ingredients, which bring richness and opulence to their creations. Beyond their purely olfactory qualities, natural ingredients also bring stories to perfumes and reinforce their poetic dimension.

“Beyond their purely olfactory qualities, natural ingredients also bring stories to perfumes and reinforce their poetic dimension” – Fabrice Pellegrin

I very much enjoy collaborating with local producers in Grasse and in other parts of the world. Through their savoir-faire, they allow us to offer the epitome of nature. My role as Director of Natural Product Innovation enables me to travel and meet our producers, for whom I have infinite respect in the creation process.

IMAGE: Firmenich.

In my role, I also work directly with our teams in Grasse on new techniques and processes. One good example of our innovation capabilities is our FirGood: a new process that allows a solvent-free treatment of fresh biomass, never before used in the natural ingredients industry. Its 100% natural extracts offer new olfactory signatures, such as FirGood pear, ginger or lily of the valley.

Another example is with the technique called Nature Print. In the latest Paco Rabanne fragrance, Fame – which I contributed to, alongside my colleague perfumers Dora Baghriche, Marie Salamagne and Alberto Morillas – we incorporated a Sicilian mango that has been processed in Grasse, using this technique. We captured the scents of the mango and the mango leaf, analysed them and reproduced them as close as possible to their original scent, using only natural ingredients.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Paco Rabanne Fame EDP

IMAGE: Paco Rabanne.

With your passion for naturals, what are your thoughts on synthetics?

The basis of my creation is natural, but I also use synthesis to facet the natural, to enrich it, to give it a new hue. Synthetic molecules allow me to create an opening towards new olfactory territories.

Synthesis is directly inspired by natural scents (rose, jasmine, etc). Chemistry does not invent anything; it only reproduces what already exists in nature. We must stop believing that natural and synthetic are opposed, when the subject is precisely how they balance each other in a formula.

“We must stop believing that natural and synthetic are opposed, when the subject is how they balance each other in a formula” – Fabrice Pellegrin

I am also a firm believer in the immense value of biotech products, such as Firmenich Clearwood or Dreamwood, which are derived from the fermentation of natural sugars. This union of science and nature to transform sugar into patchouli or sandalwood notes is truly fascinating.

BIOTECH VALUE: Fabrice Pellegrin used the Firmenich captive molecule Dreamwood in the creation of Bentley Momentum Unbreakable EDP. IMAGE: Firmenich.

Which perfume project did you find particularly challenging?

In fact, all projects are a challenge.

Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal EDP [2017] is one I remember well. The project lasted five years and required a lot of resilience and stamina. We started developing it with one company, BPI, then continued with Puig when they bought the brand.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Jean Paul Gaultier So Scandal! EDP

Another instance was Jo Malone Nashi Blossom Cologne [2016], because in perfumes, nashi blossom notes have often been worked in facets, rather than as the main olfactive idea. As a perfumer, I was inspired by this task to tell the story of this unique fruit. Exploring the whole ingredient, from fruit to petal to tree, was indeed a challenge.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Jo Malone Nashi Blossom Cologne

IMAGE: Jo Malone.

More recently, for Penhaligon’s The World According to Arthur EDP [2021], my challenge was to create a magnificent incense scent. To do that, I selected different qualities of incense. I was searching to obtain the most fresh, resinous and dazzling facet. In total, I selected three types of incense, whose olfactive profiles are complementary. Then I was able to unify the different treatments to create a scent that was coherent with my initial idea.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Penhaligon's The World According to Arthur EDP

IMAGE: Penhaligon’s.

Which perfume do you admire the most?

I have a strong admiration for Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois EDP. I love its structure – a very short, yet precise formula – the fact that it’s so recognizable and that it’s without a gender. We’re celebrating its 30th anniversary this year.

FABRICE PELLEGRIN FAVOURITE: The perfumer loves the preciseness and immediate recognisability of Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois EDP. IMAGE: Serge Lutens.

I also adore Miracle from Lancôme. Alberto [Morillas] knows how to work around musks in a sublime way. Among my favourites are also [Issey Miyake] L’Eau d’Issey, man and woman, [Davidoff] Cool Water and [Dior] Fahrenheit for their simplicity and singularity.

Roos & Roos Mentha Religiosa EDP is one of my favourite creations of yours. In what ways is it typical of your style?

Mints have interesting olfactory asperities. I like to use them as they come up as quite unexpected in fine fragrance creation, for instance in Eau de Minthé for Diptyque.

In Mentha Religiosa, I used a fresh and intense mint, accompanied by a dark incense blended with patchouli and vanilla. Both are two difficult notes to work with; mint being often associated with technical perfumery for oral care, and quite antagonistic. The equilibrium of this perfume lies in the unexpected combination between the tiny green leaf with a powdery, ambery drydown.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Roos & Roos Mentha Religiosa EDP

This is typical of my style in that I’m convinced there is beauty to be found in the simplest of ideas. In my fragrances I often try to create with simplicity – I always say that designing something simple is in fact very complex! What I like the most is crafting simple, direct fragrances that are well architectured.

“What I like the most is crafting simple, direct fragrances that are well architectured” – Fabrice Pellegrin 

For each perfume I create, I start with a raw idea, then I work on it for months, sometimes even years, to make it totally appealing.

One of your recent creations is the EDP version of the classic Diptyque Eau Rose. Apart from its concentration, what makes this release different from the original?

It is a more intense version, richer, in the generosity that this rose has and in the fruity elements, with accents of lychee, which give addiction to the perfume.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Diptyque Eau Rose EDT

It is also a soliflore but enhanced with woody, ambery, enveloping notes. I used an innovation, the FIRAD rose, because it brings a different patina to the products we have on the palette. This is one of the first times I have used it in a perfume.

Second, the olfactory profile. The FIRAD rose is upcycled because it comes from the distillation water of the rose that we recover and concentrate to keep only the aromatic molecules that remain in the water. It is less heavy, syrupy and fresher, fruitier. This freshness, this fruity tone brings a smile to the fragrance. This unique and responsible process is one that we master and develop in our laboratories in Grasse.

Fabrice Pellegrin - Diptyque Eau Rose EDT + Diptyque Eau Rose EDP

DIPTYQUE DUO: Fabrice Pellegrin created Eau Rose EDT and Eau Rose EDP for the Paris-based niche brand.

Does work dominate your life, or is there time for yourself?

Work is predominant in my life, but there’s time for my family, for sure. I live between two cities, Paris and Grasse, because this is the right balance for myself.

I use the time I have to transmit my knowledge, because I’m interested to know that future generations will continue this savoir-faire. Whenever I can, I talk to perfumery students.

I also have the privilege of sharing my passion with my sons, Florian and Romain, both set to become perfumers.

IMAGE: Firmenich.

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Best Honey Fragrances: Sweet Sophistication

Best Honey Fragrances - Initio Addictive Vibration EDP

Show me the honey! Apologies to the makers of Jerry Maguire, I had to adapt that classic cinematic phrase to suit my purposes for this round-up of the best honey fragrances.

Best Honey Fragrances - Amouage Crimson Rocks EDP

No surprises, honey hits the sweet spot with the ongoing popularity of gourmands. It’s also used to texture floral notes with a sunny aspect. Either way, I love how perfumers interpret the note, often recreating the variety of the real thing according to its nectar source.

I explore some of the genre’s most sophisticated options. What are your best honey fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Best Honey Fragrances - Chanel Beige EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT, Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the pioneering French niche brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best Honey Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Honey Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

CHANEL BEIGE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Inspired by Coco Chanel’s favourite colour (“I take refuge in beige because it’s natural,” she said, according to the French luxury brand’s website), this EDP is a 2016 addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private range. Who knew beige could be so vibrant?

The tropical tones of frangipani – all fruity creaminess – are blended with the spiciness of hawthorn to produce a lush mood. You’d never know Hawthorn is created in the lab through synthetic means. The sweetness of these florals is accentuated by a dollop of honey in a thoroughly refined Chanel way.

Nominally a female fragrance, Beige is unisex in my opinion and highly recommended for the more open-minded, olfactorily speaking.

Best Honey Fragrances - Chanel Beige EDP

MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

The original and innovative Mugler A*Men was launched in 1996 and each addition to the franchise manages to add something different to the theme.

Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection. It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while an amber accord keeps it warm and cosy.

It’s the probably the most popular A*Men flanker and, for the record, it has not been discontinued.

Best Honey Fragrances - Mugler Amen Pure Havane EDT

DIPTYQUE VOLUTES EDP* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

Something chic, something comfortable, something understated…

Tobacco extends a warm welcome that’s impossible to refuse in this 2012 release from the Paris-based niche company, while an iris accord reveals her seductive powdery charms. Delicately sweet notes of honey and cinnamon add to the sensual ambience. Opoponax keeps it velvety smooth.

Everything is in perfect harmony in this stellar Fabrice Pellegrin creation. The EDT version, created by the same accomplished perfumer, is also a great option.

Best Honey Fragrances - Diptyque Volutes EDP

PARFUMS DE MARLY OAJAN EDP*

Parfums de Marly must be one of the most popular niche brands in recent years, with big releases such as Herod, Layton and Pegasus proving to be lucrative crowd-pleasers for brand founder Julien Sprecher.

A 2013 release from the less-hyped Arabian Breed Collection, Oajan gets the balance between accessibility and quality right.

Spicy cinnamon and powdery honey make for a great combo in the opening, with the fruity floralcy of osmanthus in support. The amber accord – lots of vanilla, benzoin and tonka bean here – is all about creaminess. Patchouli gives the EDP earthy depth.

Some of the house’s releases can be a tad aggressive, but this one is the epitome of elegance.

Best Honey Fragrances - Parfums de Marly Oajan EDP

MEMO ILHA DO MEL EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Ilha do Mel. A small island off the coast of Brazil with beautiful beaches and Atlantic forests. The name alone of this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house’s Graines Vagabondes Collection sounds exotic and far, far away from reality. I don’t need any persuasion to take a trip with this beautiful EDP.

Memo fragrances are layered and maximalist, and this one is no different. Juniper oil and hyacinth provide brief green freshness in the opening. And then a floral bouquet of broom, orange blossom, gardenia and especially jasmine are given a luxurious honey treatment. Which makes perfect sense seeing that Ilha do Mel means “honey island”. Musk and vanilla prolong the experience in the drydown.

It’s heady and sweet, but not ickily so. And as always with Memo, the bottle is gorgeous.

Best Honey Fragrances - Memo Ilha do Mel EDP

INITIO ADDICTIVE VIBRATION EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL & PIERRE-CONSTANTIN GUÉROS)

I’m feeling all hot and bothered. And not because of the temperatures outside. I’ve just finished reading the website blurb for this 2016 release from the French niche brand’s Absolutes Collection: “a body of lustful scent in a magma of flesh.” Gulp!

Over-statement aside, this EDP deserves as much attention as the house’s big releases such as Oud for Greatness EDP and Musk Therapy EDP.

The combo of floral notes – apple blossom, orange blossom, vanilla orchid – is sweetly seductive stuff. The animalic honey note stands out among the potent bouquet, while musk maintains the sensual vibe in the drydown.

Best Honey Fragrances - Initio Addictive Vibration EDP

SWEET SEDUCTION: Is Initio Addictive Vibration EDP one of your best honey fragrances?

KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP (PASCAL GAURIN)

The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.

A 2017 release from The Cellars Collection, Kilian Gold Knight EDP is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The classy sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.

One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag. If you want something more obviously opulent, there’s also the 2009 release, Kilian Back to Black EDP, to sniff out.

 

Best Honey Fragrances - Killian Gold Knight EDP

CARTIER L’ENVOL DE CARTIER EDT (MATHILDE LAURENT)

L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.

The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing.

Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair. Beautiful simplicity at its best!

Best Honey Fragrances - Cartier L'Envol de Cartier EDT

BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY: Cartier L’Envol de Cartier is my favourite in this best honey fragrances selection.

BYREDO CASABLANCA LILY EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The Night Veils Collection (all extrait de parfum concentration) shows Byredo in a completely different light. No prizes for guessing the inspiration for Casablanca Lily, a 2019 release from the Swedish niche brand.

It opens with a combo of creamy gardenia and juicy plum. The sensual ambience picks up a notch with the appearance of slightly animalic Indian tuberose. There’s a hint of spicy carnation in the background too.

Sweet and pure, the honey accord is something to behold. It’s supported by the floral tones of a rosewood note.

Best Honey Fragrances - Byredo Casablanca Lily Extrait de Parfum

AMOUAGE CRIMSON ROCKS EDP* (DOMITILLE MICHALON BERTIER)

Any doubts that the brand that put Arabian perfumery on the world map, under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, would take a dip after his departure in 2019 were laid to rest with this 2020 release. Part of the Renaissance Collection and inspired by the beauty of the Al Hajar Mountains, Oman, at dusk, this contribution to the best honey fragrances is one for the romantics.

That mood is on display from the warm and spicy opening notes of cinnamon bark essential and pink pepper. Two extracts of rose meet a Jujube honey accord, with its rich date-ish nuances, to create a suitably Middle Eastern vibe.

The drydown is on the woody side, with the earthiness of oak supported by vetiver.

Best Honey Fragrances - Amouage Crimson Rocks EDP

MOLTON BROWN MESMERISING OUDH ACCORD & GOLD EDT* (SYLVIE FISCHER)

The British brand that’s best known for its bath and body products also produces quality fragrances such as this 2015 release.

The spicy freshness of notes of bergamot and elemi transitions to the warmth of cinnamon and nutmeg. A black tea accord adds a green dimension to the composition. It builds up to the drydown featuring rich and resinous oud in partnership with caramel-ish tobacco. Although in a secondary role, the honey accord contributes to the oriental atmosphere with soft sweetness.

If you’re feeling really indulgent, you could pair it with the matching Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Bath & Shower Gel featuring 23.5-carat gold flakes. The 2019 EDP version (pictured here) has pronounced accents of saffron and styrax.

Best Honey Fragrances - Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold EDP

*These best honey fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

 

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Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP Review

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Since its launch in 2006, Terre d’Hermès has achieved “modern classic” status. So any new flanker to this much-loved fragrance is bound to be scrutinised and compared with the original created by Jean-Claude Ellena. I’m talking about you, Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, which was launched in 2022.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Limited editions aside, it helps that the French luxury brand has treated its prized perfume with the reverence it deserves and resisted the temptation to regularly release a different version of it.

PERFUMER

Before succeeding Jean-Claude Ellena as the company’s in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel made a name for herself with Cartier Eau de Cartier EDT (2001), Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT (2003), Dior Miss Dior Cherie EDP (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP (2006), Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street EDC (2013), Giorgio Armani Si EDP (2013) and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne (2014), among others.

An impressive résumé that reflects the Swiss perfumer’s knack for commercial and creative success.

Since 2016, she has maintained the Hermès reputation for refined luxury with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate EDC (2016), Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016), Twilly d’Hermès EDP (2017), Un Jardin Sur La Lagune EDT (2019) and H24 EDT (2021).

Hermès Galop d'Hermès Parfum - Christine Nagel

“With Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée, I wanted to challenge the idea that freshness is synonymous with a certain lightness. I sought to express the intense freshness of a land covered with ice, and the fusion of these two elements, a source of primary, regenerative energy for men,” says the perfumer on the brand’s website.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP - Christine Nagel

SO WHAT DOES TERRE D’HERMÈS EAU GIVRÉE EDP SMELL LIKE?

The opening is all about citron (also known as cédrat), the ancient citrus variety. Here, it’s fresh, bright and slightly sour, as to be expected, but infused with a cool and invigorating iciness. Love it already! The aromatics of juniper berries and citric spice of timur pepper prolong the freshness.

Woody warmth features prominently in the drydown. And, of course, it wouldn’t be Terre d’Hermès without a dose of conceptual minerality, achieved through synthetic means.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Christine Nagel was aiming for the frisson of powerful freshness, and she’s achieved that with her customary expertise.

It’s too sophisticated to be called a “freshie”. Global warming meet your nemesis, olfactorily speaking, that is. With its crisp and cool character, this one is perfect for periods of relentless heat.

Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée EDP

Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP is available in South Africa at Woolworths. 

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Kenzo Homme EDT Intense Review: A Thoroughly Modern Aquatic

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

Is it hot, or is it just me? No wonder I’m reaching for one of the best aquatics in recent years: Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. This 2021 release from the Japanese fashion brand (part of the LVMH conglomerate since its acquisition in 1993) sees Kenzo back in the masculine fragrance game in a big way.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

In recent years, the house has focused on its female ranges – Flower and World – so good to see it investing in its male scents again and especially one as good as Kenzo Homme EDT Intense.

PERFUMER

Quentin Bisch is admirably focused on his job to be distracted by flattering descriptions such as “star perfumer”.

The Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Quentin Bisch

IMAGE: Givaudan.

And then Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013), Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP (2014), Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP (2016) gave him the opportunity to show his creative versatility whether for designer or niche brands.

He hasn’t stopped working, with creations such as Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) demonstrating his passion and dedication to his craft.

SO WHAT DOES KENZO HOMME EDT INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

Welcome to the seaside, thanks to judicious use of Calypsone. The Givaudan captive molecule is known for its floral-salty properties and it’s beautifully on display here. The pink pepper note adds rosy spiciness to the mix.

I checked with the perfumer if Calone is also in this EDT, and he confirmed it. But unlike the heavy-handedness of many 1990s aquatics, this fresh sea-breezy synthetic is used in a subtle way. That understatement is also shown in the warm and powdery treatment of the fig tree accord.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense

What stands out most in Kenzo Homme EDT Intense and the part I keep on coming back to is its sensual heat and lingering saltiness on the skin. This is achieved through a combination of earthy vetiver and another Givaudan captive molecule, Akigalawood (patchouli oil is fractionated to produce a woody, spicy, sometimes oud-y effect). I don’t understand the process completely either. What matters is that Quentin Bisch makes the most of this example of biotechnology.

Kenzo Homme EDT Intense - Akigalawood

BIOTECHNOLOGY: Quentin Bisch used the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood to create Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. IMAGE: Givaudan.

The sandalwood note – deliciously creamy, with a hint of coconut – concludes the scent with finesse.

This is not your usual aquatic. It’s thoroughly modern and while minimalist, there’s plenty to hold the attention from start to finish.  Quentin Bisch has every reason to be proud of this creation.

Looking for a contemporary aquatic without the 1990s clichés? Want to feel like you’re on holiday somewhere special? Here you go…

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Nathalie Feisthauer Interview: The Diversity Of Independence

Nathalie Feisthauer

Some people you don’t even have to meet to get a sense of them. Nathalie Feisthauer is one of those individuals. And I use the word “individual” purposefully because the 30-year+ career of the Paris-based master perfumer has been defined by unconventionality.

Nathalie Feisthauer

From her education at Roure Bertrand Dupont (now the Givaudan Perfumery School) to creations for prestigious brands such as Cartier, Comme des Garçons, Hermès and Etat Libre d’Orange (see below for more), the perfume path of Nathalie Feisthauer has been one of not following the norm.

  • Aramis Havana EDT (1994)
  • Versace Blonde EDT (1995)
  • Pierre Balmain Vent Vert EDT (1999)
  • Cartier Must de Cartier Pour Homme EDT (2000)
  • Oriflame Giordani Gold Original EDP (2002)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Tattoo EDT (2007)
  • Lancôme Hypnôse Senses EDP (2009)
  • Amouage Honour Man EDP (2011)
  • Ferrari Essence Oud EDP (2012)
  • Etat Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces EDP (2013)
  • Van Cleef & Arpels Rêve EDP (2013)
  • Comme des Garçons Blue Cedrat EDP (2013)
  • Carolina Herrera Oud Couture EDP (2015)
  • Aedes de Venustas Pélargonium EDP (2017)
  • MDCI Parfums Cuir Cavalier EDP (2019)
  • Nomenclature Fluo–ral EDP (2019)
  • Puredistance No. 12 Perfume (2021)

After working for major fragrance companies such as Givaudan (1983-2008) and Symrise (2008-2014), her strong streak of independence found expression in the formation of her own company, LAB-Scent. Nathalie Feisthauer now focuses on producing idiosyncratic perfumes for niche brands such as A-chromiq, Alendor, Burdin and Maison Rebatchi.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Aramis Havana EDT

IMAGE: Aramis.

I also get the impression she’s quite playful when she answers one last question at the start of her three-week vacation on the Italian island of Ischia. When I say somewhat jealously, “What an inspiring place to be”, she replies, “Totally, beautiful, farniente [Italian for “doing nothing”], pool, sea…”

Nathalie Feisthauer - Cartier Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire EDT

In this interview, we chat about the influence of YSL Opium, company codes and the benefits of going independent.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

I’m wearing my new creations, some of which will soon be launched on the market.

The decision to become a perfumer is often an accumulation of events. Anything that stands out for you?

The discovery of Opium by Yves Saint Laurent was a life-changing revelation for me. It was the moment I understood my vocation.

IMAGE: Yves Saint Laurent.

When you started studying perfumery at Roure in 1983, it was unusual not to come from a perfumery family. Did that different background make it more challenging for you?

Yes, it was challenging and even more magical and new for me because I didn’t come from Grasse, and I wasn’t used to seeing and smelling all these beautiful raw materials. So it was like heaven when I arrived at the school. At the same time, it allowed me to understand the codes of companies and their functioning.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Oriflame Giordani Gold Original EDP

IMAGE: Oriflame.

What was your fine fragrance debut? What are your thoughts on it now?

My first fine fragrance was Elysium for Clarins [released in 1993], a floral-fruity fragrance for women. I composed it in New York at the age of 26, and it was a dream coming true. It was, and still is, an original fragrance, of which I am very proud.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Clarins Elysium EDT

HAPPY PLACE: Clarins Elysium EDT was Nathalie Feisthauer’s fine fragrance debut in 1993. IMAGE: Cleopatra’s Boudoir.

How do you approach each new perfume project?

I read the brief, taking the time to see what it evokes to me, whether it is images, landscapes, smells, or textures. Then I begin to formulate and smell my tests before refining them step by step. I propose tests according to the brief, but also “diagonals”, meaning smells not requested but resulting from instantaneous inspiration.

“I propose tests according to the brief, but also ‘diagonals’, meaning smells not requested but resulting from instantaneous inspiration.” – Nathalie Feisthauer 

Nathalie Feisthauer - Amouage Honour Man EDP

Your creations show an incredible range of versatility. Was that deliberate?

Yes, I like to diversify my creations and propose original perfumes, different from those offered on the current market. Nowadays, consumers are asking to stand out from the crowd and want to wear innovative, original, never-smelled perfumes. This is what I propose to them through my creations.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Comme des Garcons Blue Cedrat EDP

IMAGE: Comme des Garçons.

I have many favourite creations of yours. But let’s focus on one in particular: Hermès Eau deS Merveilles from 2004. What was unusual about its creation?

I created it with Ralf Schwieger, and its particularity is that it was created around ambergris, an animal note embellished by other woody, hesperidised, spicy and musky notes.

It was a very innovative perfume at the time. Through it, I paid tribute to Véronique Gautier, the artistic director of Hermès who had the courage to launch this fragrance.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Hermès Eau des Merveilles

How did you approach the creation of Van Cleef & Arpels Gardénia Pétale EDP (2009) in terms of using synthetics and naturals?

I wanted to capture the aerial, humid and tropical facets of this majestic flower. The real gardenia scent is heavy. I worked more on the texture of the petals. In this fragrance, there is no gardenia natural oil.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Van Cleef & Arpels Gardenia Petale EDP

When did you decide to go independent? What was your thinking behind that decision?

I created LAB-Scent eight years ago, after working for 30 years in corporate companies that trained me a lot and allowed me to become a professional perfumer.

Becoming independent was an aspiration for personal fulfilment. It allows me to be self-employed, to make a name for myself thanks to my creations, and to propose original fragrances. Furthermore, I like the relationship it creates with brand art directors that I didn’t have before.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Aedes de Venustas Pelargonium EDP

Why do you prefer to focus on niche brands now?

The niche market is less codified and allows much more creativity. Some customers ask for very original perfumes and from the four corners of the world.

I like this diversity, this freedom of creation, the possibility of using more prestigious materials and claiming them, which mass perfumery doesn’t do, and having discussions from a creative point of view.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Puredistance No 12 Perfume

IMAGE: Puredistance.

I’m loving your 2021 creation for Maison Crivelli, Lys Sølaberg. Was it easy to translate Thibaud Crivelli’s experience into olfactory reality?

Thibaud Crivelli is a man with a thirst for adventure who has travelled extensively and loves nature in its raw state.

Working on this fragrance, I interpreted his memory of the Faroe Islands, Denmark. I wanted to transcribe their remarkable beauty, with the sun shimmering on the sea, the sweet and smoky aspect of the lilies, the power of the wind, the mineral stone, and the darker, more humid aspect of the peat. I wanted to convey the idea of mankind faced with rugged nature.

“It evolves towards a note that evokes the power of the elements, which is almost telluric, and not at all fragile.” – Nathalie Feisthauer 

And so, there is a real duality in this creation. It opens with a beautiful pearlescent light, then evolves towards a note that evokes the power of the elements, which is almost telluric, and not at all fragile.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Maison Crivelli Lys Solaberg Extrait de Parfum

It develops with contrasts between the smoky, spicy lily facet, the radiant, slightly alcoholised quince, and a peaty/woody facet provided by the amber woods and an overdose of Ambroxan, as well as an absolute of roasted oak shavings, which adds an incredibly sensual patina to the accord, evoking the thatched roof houses typical of the region.

I haven’t tried it yet, but Zoologist Cow, which was released this year, sounds wonderful. Tell us a bit more about it.

Zoologist perfumes are fascinated by animals. They capture their particularities and transforms them into unusual, beautiful, funny, even shocking perfumes.

Cow is a green-floral fragrance with an apple and sage head; a milky, heliotropic and floral heart; and amber-woody-musky base notes. It evokes a green pasture with peaceful cows.

Nathalie Feisthauer - Zoologist Cow Extrait de Parfum

It’s an original perfume you’ll either love or hate. You must try it on your skin to see if you like it or not. If you do, it is soft and addictive and could become your perfume for life.

When you’re not creating perfumes, what will we find you doing?

I enjoy travelling, cooking and spending time with my kids. They make me discover new smells and flavours and stimulate my creativity. I also love being in my garden in Montmartre.

Nathalie Feisthauer

 

 

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Best L’Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances From The Original Niche Pioneer

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

Before niche was even a thing, there was L’Artisan Parfumeur. Fact. With the hype around big-name niche brands, it’s easy to forget the company led the way and has a remarkable selection of classics and more recent releases for those with more discerning tastes. So there was no shortage of options for this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances post.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

After founding the French beauty business Sisley in 1972, Jean-François Laporte went on to create the Paris-based house in 1976. From its first release in 1978, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc, its reputation for innovation and quality was sown.

NEW BUSINESS MODEL: Jean-François Laporte founded the Paris-based house in 1976. IMAGE: Fragrantica.

While its founder is no longer with us and the brand now falls under the umbrella of the Spanish company Puig, it offers excellent value in a market increasingly driven by a race to the top (price).

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances?

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÛRE ET MUSC EDT* (JEAN-FRANÇOIS LAPORTE)

A brand’s debut should set the tone for future releases, and that’s exactly what this 1978 release did in original style. It’s a bona fide musk classic.

It opens with the bright citrus tones of lemon. The herbal aromatics of basil is also discernible. The tart fruitiness of blackberry – then a novelty, but now a staple in perfumery – is enhanced by clean white musks in the drydown, while oakmoss gives it a dash of earthiness.

The 1993 version created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême EDP, with its blackcurrant and blackberry emphasis, is also worth exploring.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

The superb Diptyque Philosykos (1996) is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig fragrances. But credit where it’s due: the first fig fragrance, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same top perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti.

Launched in 1994, this EDT brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green style with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe honeyed fig. A delicious milky, woody ambience is created through a combo of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.

What a classic, both in terms of its influence and timeless beauty. The 2004 follow-up, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP, also created by Olivia Giacobetti, presents a more intense, sunnier variation on the original theme.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the brand.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.

At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was released in 1999. A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience.

Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and an amber accord add sweetness to the mix, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this top-notch Olivia Giacobetti creation is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)

While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).

Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.

Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release will tell you all you need to know. The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre EDT, is a standard-setter in the amber category.

Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth.

Old-school glamour at its very best.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note, with its smokiness.

The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence!

Want more delicious olfactory travels? Then hunt down the sadly discontinued L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore EDP. Inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to Istanbul, this 2010 release features accents of fruit, leather, iris and Turkish delight.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu EDT

UNIQUE: Timbuktu is a personal favourite in this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances selection.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This 2006 release is not one of those fragrances.

Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, opens this EDP with its bitter herbaceousness. The aromatic effect is carried through to the heart with the addition of spicy notes such as earthy nutmeg and powdery star anise. It settles on a woody base of pine tree needles and fir balsam notes, with the smoke of incense adding the finishing touch.

Instead of serving an obvious shot of absinthe, it cleverly creates a mood that’s full of intrigue and nuances.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AL OUDH EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2009 release takes its cue from the perfumer’s travels to the Middle East, which partly explains the name of the fragrance.

It opens in powerfully spicy mode – notes of caraway seed and cardamom are prominent in the blend. With the sweet fruit of dates in the air, there’s no doubt you’re in for an oriental treat. I wouldn’t blame you for missing the floral notes, including rose, in the heady mix of resinous oud, smoky incense and sweet ’n spicy myrrh. It gets more complex and dirtier in the drydown with animalic notes of civetone and leather.

It’s exotic stuff, in the best sense of the word, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. If I’m being really fussy, I might have called it L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Spicy Oudh, but that doesn’t take away from its beauty.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CALIGNA EDP* (DORA BAGHRICHE)

L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier is an undoubted fig fragrance classic and while this 2013 take on the fruit might not be as immediately appealing, it’s still worth sniffing out for its intriguing vibe.

An ode to Grasse (Caligna means “to flirt” in Provencal dialect, according to the brand website), it opens with the gentle sweetness of fig. A large dose of clary sage infuses the scent with fresh herbal muskiness. A softly green interpretation of jasmine leads the way to the drydown featuring the woody aromatics of pine.

It’s not the usual scent but typically L’Artisan Parfumeur in its inspiration and execution.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Caligna EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout.

Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MIRABILIS 60 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

The brand’s La Botanique Collection, with its appropriately shaped bottles, doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. So this 2016 release is my not-so-subtle way of drawing your attention to it.

On paper it’s a seemingly straightforward amber composition, but it casts a mysteriously sensual spell when wearing it. That’s largely due to the olibanum, with its complex facets (from fruity and spicy to resinous). It’s blended with musk, Ambroxan and woody notes to irresistible effect.

Also look out for the range’s Arcana Rosa 9 EDP (thorny rose alert!) and Obscuratio 25 EDP (ylang-ylang meets patchouli), both created by the same perfumer.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur 60 Mirabilis EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

L’Artisan Parfumeur added eaux de cologne to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results. Inspired by Claude Monet’s masterpiece Impressionist work, Au Bord de L’Eau takes me away to rural France, albeit fleetingly. It’s an eau de cologne, after all.

So it’s about clean and calming delicacy, from the fresh citrus opening notes of bergamot and lemon intermingled with strokes of herbal rosemary, powdery violet and aromatic cedarwood.

I also recommend Sur l’Herbe Eau de Cologne, inspired by Edouard Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, if you’re looking for a hit of sunny neroli freshness.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR HISTOIRE D’ORANGERS EDP* (MARIE SALAMAGNE)

Perfumer Marie Salamagne had the pleasure of visiting the Souss Valley in Morocco, one of the country’s main agricultural regions, and this 2017 release captures that memory with delightful detail.

It opens with the slightly bitter citrus hues of neroli, with the greenery of tea in support. And then onto the star of the scent show: orange blossom, softly sweet and its natural warmth enhanced by white musk and Ambroxan. A touch of nutty tonka bean in the drydown evokes the fruit of the argan tree, which is endemic to Morocco.

Striking a deft balance between freshness and warmth, softness and sensuality, it’s the olfactory equivalent of taking a walk through an orchard on a sunny day.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MANDARINA CORSICA EDP (QUENTIN BISCH)

A 2018 gourmand that’s well worth checking out. And this time, we’re in Corsica and in the accomplished hands of perfumer Quentin Bisch. Who could say no?

Inspired by a caramelised mandarin he tasted on the French island as a child, he captures the sensation of this candy by presenting different aspects of the citrus fruit: juicy, zesty and sunny but with more longevity than expected, and given the gourmand factor with notes of caramel and tonka bean.

A note of immortelle, with its sweet honey tones, adds to the edibility of it all, while soft floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom complete the idyllic picture.

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CHAMP DE FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE* (ANNE FLIPO)

Did you say light and bright? Then this 2018 addition to the company’s eau de cologne range is calling your name.

It opens with fresh notes of pear and grapefruit, beautifully balanced between soft fruity sweetness and citric bitterness. There’s more freshness from floral notes of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley and white cedar, while musk brings clean powderiness to the drydown,

With its spring inspiration, it’s perfect for those days when only subtle and discreet sophistication will do.

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Champ de Fleurs EDC

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MONT DE NARCISSE EDP (ANNE FLIPO)

This 2019 release goes deep and dark, although you wouldn’t expect it from the subdued opening featuring the rosiness of pink pepper, with hints of crisp bergamot and spicy cardamom in the background.

It takes things up a notch with the appearance of a note of narcissus. Reserved at first and then increasingly animalic. Notes of osmanthus and plum bring a fruity aspect.

But what really makes this EDP stand out is the dense drydown with its smoky and sensual leatheriness.

Highly recommended if you’re looking for something dark and mysterious.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse EDP

IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR BANA BANANA EDP* (CÉLINE ELLENA)

If you’d asked me a month ago if I’d get a thrill from smelling like ripe bananas, I’d have said something like, “Not particularly.” But that was before I’d tried L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP. Created by Céline Ellena (daughter of the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena and an accomplished perfumer in her own right), this 2019 release is fabulously flamboyant.

The opening is deceptively reserved, with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. And then a rich and ripe banana effect through the skilful use of synthetics and naturals (including jasmine at its most fruity). The skin and fruit vibe continues through to the amber accord drydown featuring tonka bean and musk at the fore.

Un vrai delice!

Best L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP

*All these best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.