Category: FRAGRANCE

Posted on

Frank Voelkl Interview: In Praise Of Synthetics

Frank Voelkl

Image: Firmenich.

I recently had the opportunity to interview natural perfumer Douglas Little about his work. There was also a lively discussion on Undina’s Looking Glass about natural, synthetic and “mixed media” perfumes. All of which prompted me to get going on an interview with Frank Voelkl, which I’d been wanting to do for a long time.

Something told me he would be helpful in providing valuable insights on the role of synthetics in modern perfumery. The New York-based senior perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavour company Firmenich took time out of his busy schedule to answer the questions I emailed him.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Firmenich.

Before we get to those enlightening answers, a quick overview of the work of Frank Voelkl. He has earned major respect for creations and co-creations such as:

  • Alfred Dunhill X-Centric EDT (2001)
  • Kenneth Cole Reaction EDT (2004)
  • Sarah Jessica Parker Covet EDP (2007)
  • Zirh Ikon EDT (2008)
  • Oscar de la Renta Esprit d’Oscar EDP (2011)
  • Ermenegildo Zegna Indonesian Oud EDP (2012)
  • Paris Hilton Dazzle EDP (2012)
  • Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Amber Sun EDP (2017)
  • Hugo Boss Hugo Now EDT (2020)
Frank Voelkl

Image: Fragrantica.

Of course, Frank Voelkl is most famous for his work for Le Labo. He has produced the decade-defining Santal 33 (2011), Iris 39 (2006), Ylang 49 and Thé Noir 29 (2015), among others, for the NYC-based niche fragrance company.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Le Labo.

Where did you study perfumery and what was the most important thing you learned there?

I did a bachelor in Chemistry in Germany and then got a degree at ISIPCA in Versailles. I always remember what the legendary Edmond Roudnitska [creator of classics such as Dior Diorissimo, Hermès Eau d’Hermès and Rochas Femme] told me during his class: “Never lose track of where you want to go with your creation and always keep the goal, what you want to achieve in mind.” It’s easy to get “distracted” when you create.

Frank Voelkl

NICHE PARTNERSHIP: Frank Voelkl has created several fragrances for Le Labo.

Would modern perfumery exist without the use of synthetics / molecules?

Absolutely not. The introduction of molecules in perfumery in the late 1800s launched modern perfumery. Just think about Chanel No 5 (1921), which wouldn’t exist without its aldehydes. Dior Eau Sauvage by E. Roudnitska (1966) wouldn’t exist without Hedione. The use of molecules really allowed us to discover new paths in modern perfumery.

Image: Fragrantica.

What role do synthetics play when you’re creating a fragrance?

Molecules have always co-existed in my creations together with natural ingredients. They are equally important and both add beauty to a fragrance.

“If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line.” – Frank Voelkl 

If you were to compare perfume creation with the art of painting, using a molecule is comparable with drawing a precise line. The use of a natural, which typically is a more complex and faceted ingredient, is similar to the use of a large brush stroke. Which means that molecules often have a more linear character and are more singular in smell. I use them exactly for that reason – to introduce a very particular note into my creation. Molecules also allow us to introduce notes that do not exist in nature and to explore uncharted olfactive territories. They are essential for innovation.

For example, when creating Gucci Bamboo, I used a particular molecule which added a very delicate green note recognisable throughout the fragrance, which I could not have achieved in the same way with a natural ingredient.

Image: Fragrantica.

You’ve created a number of fragrances for NYC-based niche house, Nomenclature, including Adr_rett, Holy_wood and Psy_Cou. What was the attraction of working with the founders, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero?

Karl and Carlos had approached me a while back, inviting me to work on their new brand Nomenclature. Given my enthusiasm for molecules and the fact that Firmenich has a large number of captive molecules, it made a lot of sense to me.

Karl and I actually met a few years earlier working on a project together, and we immediately seemed to understand each other well. Of course, the fact that Karl and I both have our roots in Germany is an added bonus. It has been a great pleasure working with Karl and Carlos since the beginning, and am happy to collaborate with them on their beautiful brand.

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: Carlos Quintero and Karl Bradl of Nomenclature, which showcases exclusive molecules in perfumery. Image: Nomenclature.

Referring to Nomenclature Psy_Cou, which showcases coumarin. tell us about the beauty of this molecule and its influence on modern perfumery.

I still remember smelling coumarin for the first time in my life when it was presented to me as one of the first raw materials from the ingredient training at ISIPCA. It’s creamy, almondy and, to me, immediately triggered a sensation of comfort.

Frank Voelkl

First used in Fougère Royale by Houbigant, it has since had an important role to play in men’s fougère structures, but has also made its way into many women’s fragrances. It is present in nature as well, in many aromatic essential oils or in hay extract, for example.

Image: WorthPoint.

Which recently created molecule are you particularly excited about and how have you used it?

We have a few recent captive molecules at Firmenich that are very exciting olfactively, a new floral aldehydic one, in particular, that I use for an aquatic transparent, yet powerful women’s fragrance. Sorry, but I can’t tell you more about it than that.

In recent years, there’s been increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients in beauty products, including fragrances. Is this a good thing for perfumery? And ultimately for the environment?

I’m glad you ask this question because I think that there is a really important message that consumers need to know. As much as anything natural is perceived to be good for you and anything synthetic as inferior, the use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.

“The use of molecules in most cases is way safer and more sustainable than naturals.”

If all fragrances were made only of naturals, our world supply would be exhausted quite rapidly. In addition, any ingredient used in fragrances, naturals or molecules, is tested before use and has to pass the same standards.

Frank Voelkl

Image: Ermenegildo Zegna.

What will be the major trendS in perfumery this decade?

Starting a decade with a major pandemic has certainly had a great impact on perfumery trends. Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean. They’re increasingly looking for fragrances that make them feel good and like to know the source of the ingredients used in fragrances. Sustainability and social impact are also important factors influencing consumers in their choices. Olfactive trends will align with these criteria.

Le Labo and Nomenclature fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

Posted on

Douglas Little Interview: “I’m Not Worried This Candle Will Over-Shadow My Other Achievements”

Douglas Little

Douglas Little achieved a level of infamy Oscar Wilde would have approved of in January 2020. The “This Smells Like My Vagina” candle he created for Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle portal, Goop, got mega media coverage ranging from indignant outrage to ecstatic approval – and sold out along the way (it’s now back in stock here). Such notoriety shouldn’t come as a surprise for a perfumer who named his natural fragrances company Heretic, which he launched in 2016.

Douglas Little

Of course, there’s more to Douglas Little than being known as “Gwyneth Paltrow’s perfumer”. After studying at Syndicat National des Fabricants de Produits Aromatiques in Grasse, he founded D. L. & Co.: Modern Alchemists and Purveyors of Curious Goods. It focused on perfumed candles, jewellery and lifestyle products. He later went on to create installations for luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Barney’s New York and Bergdorf Goodman. The Californian has also worked with celebrities such as Dita Von Teese, Lady Gaga and Bette Midler.

Douglas Little

When I was contacted by Douglas Little’s PR to interview him, his latest collaboration with Gwyneth Paltrow, the “This Smells Like My Orgasm” candle, hadn’t been launched yet. So this interview predates the controversy this new product will undoubtedly create.

I’d like to state that while I haven’t smelled any of the products featured in this blog-post, I get the strong impression that Douglas Little is a highly creative perfumer with a knack for harnessing the power of sensuality, provocative marketing and humour.

Douglas Little

So let’s get that question out of the way first. How did the “Smells Like My Vagina” candle get its name?

When I develop fragrances with Gwyneth Paltrow we start with several different essential oils. I also love to show her things that are more radical and experimental.

I was sharing an ingredient with her and she said, “This smells like my vagina”, and of course we laughed hysterically and it became a joke. Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.

“Gwyneth is the perfect collaborator because she is always open to new ideas.”

When I first brought the candle to Gwyneth it was intended as a limited release for Goop Summit and it sold out within about 45 minutes. That’s how the vagina candle story got started, in this very humble and innocent way. We certainly didn’t know what the response would be and it’s been exciting to see how people have fallen in love with it.

Douglas Little

STAR POWER: Douglas Little with Gwyneth Paltrow.

Are you worried this candle will overshadow your other achievements?

Not in the least. “This Smells Like My Vagina” is an interesting product, because it’s one that provokes curiosity. Any stigma that was wrapped around anything relating to the vagina is being felt and this candle encourages healthy conversations and humour.

When did you start working with Goop and are there future projects in the works?

I started working with Goop in 2017. I was hired by Gwyneth to be the nose for her four fragrance editions, Number 1, 2, 3 and 4. We have two really exciting releases coming out this year.

Douglas Little

How has the coronavirus affected your work?

It’s been devastating for everyone. It was hard because we had to restructure our team, but we are trying to look at the glass half full. The coronavirus has forced us to look at the important aspects of the business and what makes us unique. We are a fragrance company that creates fragrance made from naturally derived materials.

We’re radically transparent about what we do and are excited to share the healing and functional elements of how fragrance can enhance people’s lives. That’s been a really important conversation during this time.

Douglas Little

How do you think the coronavirus is affecting our attitude towards fragrance?

People are paying much more attention to the effects of fragrance and the way it can influence your state of mind. Many of us have gone through various stages of isolation/depression, from being sad to angry to frustrated. These emotions can be altered with fragrance.

Being at home and self-isolated, you miss going out and having a walk on the beach, in the park or in the forest. A candle or a perfume can help shift your point of view for a minute.

“People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you.”

People are looking for the little bits of normality and pleasure, and fragrance has the ability to transport you. It can help you to relax or to go to sleep, it can transform the room that you’re stuck in all day by lighting a candle or putting on perfume. It’s a very small action that can have a big effect.

Douglas Little

You’re known for your love of natural fragrances. Many of my favourite fragrances are defined by their use of synthetics. How would you sell natural fragrances to me? And what do you mean by “natural?”

Natural fragrance is made from 100% naturally derived materials. “Naturally derived” is a term that’s specified by an agency called the ISO, meaning that the product is from a natural source. All of the materials we work with are naturally derived. In other words, they actually have to start out as a natural product.

The difference between natural and synthetic fragrances is that synthetic fragrances last longer. They can have a lot more of what I would call softer nuances to them. But they can also be overwhelming. Synthetics are engineered in a laboratory to be very fragrant, whereas with naturally derived materials, the fragrance is a by-product of the natural material itself. As a result, the fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them. It’s easier for people to identify the fragrance notes in naturally derived fragrances than in synthetic fragrances.

“Naturally derived fragrances are going to be more subtle, more alive and have more of a real quality to them.”

 

Douglas Little

The other important reason for naturally derived fragrance is that they are free from the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances. About 90% of the aroma chemicals that are used to make synthetic fragrances are petrol derived.

I wanted to create a product that was dramatically different from anything else that was currently on the market. The main reason people don’t use naturally derived materials on a more regular basis is because of their cost and they don’t necessarily appeal to everyone, whereas synthetic fragrances appeal to a broad audience. They are inexpensive, but can also be toxic.

How do you approach the creation of fragrance? Is it a technical or artistic process for you?

It’s both. I start with a concept. I build off of an idea and then start to figure out how to work with naturally derived materials to create that idea. It’s a two-part process and part of the reason I love fragrance so much is because it is equal parts art and science.

Do you have a philosophy as such? Is your company’s name “Heretic” a reflection of that?

Yes. The reason I chose the name Heretic is because when I first started this company, I wanted to do a line of fragrance derived from 100% natural materials. I was told that I was insane, that it was impossible and would never sell. I was also told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives and heretics from a very astute perfume company. It was my mission to prove them wrong.

“I was told that the work of natural perfumery was nothing more than the work of housewives. It was my mission to prove them wrong.”

Douglas Little

What will be the key trends in fragrance this decade?

Going back to the basics. As a consumer and watching the habits of consumers, we are all inundated with information. We are moving at such a rapid rate and we’re expected to perform at such a high velocity. There is a need for more simplicity.

Douglas Little

For more info on Douglas Little, visit douglaslittle.com and Heretic Parfum. All pics of Douglas Little and associated products supplied. 

Posted on

10 Best Rose Fragrances: Fragroom’s Queen Of Florals Mix

Best Rose Fragrances

Not for nothing is the rose known as the queen of flowers and, I can add, a mainstay of perfumery. This year alone, big releases include Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose EDP, Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP and Dior Miss Dior Rose N’Roses EDT. I haven’t tried any of these yet due to the current coronavirus situation, hence their possible exclusion from this best roses fragrances list.

Best Rose Fragrances

Rose fragrances are always popular and part of their appeal is due to the multitude of ways in which they can be interpreted. From fresh and dewy to rich and decadent, there’s one for you. I’ve included a mix of styles, modern classics and newbies in this best roses round-up to give you a sense of the variety on offer.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

I would love to hear about your best rose fragrances.

Best Rose Fragrances

FREDERIC MALLE PORTRAIT OF A LADY EDP* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

No best rose fragrances list would be complete without the inclusion of this modern masterpiece that’s affectionately known by its fans as POAL. An extraordinary perfume demands a different type of review, so here are five facts:

  1. It’s named after the Henry James novel, which was published in 1891.
  2. Its creator, Dominique Ropion, who is highly regarded for scents such as Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Givenchy Amarige, Lancôme La Vie est Belle and Mugler Alien, received The Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement, Perfumer Award in 2019.
  3. Released in 2010, it has become one of the most revered niche fragrances of the last decade.
  4. According to the brand’s website, each 100ml bottle contains no less than 400 Turkish roses.
  5. That said, this is a seamless fragrance that whispers its supreme beauty from the opening rose note. Tinges of raspberry and black currant bring delicate fruity piquancy to the blend, while cloves add spicy warmth. An ultra-refined patchouli note takes the lead in the drydown and is given just the right amount of sensual mystery with swirls of smoky frankincense and creamy sandalwood.

While you are in Frédéric Malle mode, make sure to sniff out the other superb rose EDPs from the Paris-based niche house, including Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger, Une Rose by Edouard Fléchier and Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Best Rose Fragrances

UNUM ROSA NIGRA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FILIPPO SORCINELLI)

Filippo Sorcinelli has to be one of the most interesting perfumers working today. The Italian is the consummate slashie. Artist. Musician. Photographer. Storyteller. Designer. Creator of vestments for the Catholic Church, including for Pope Francis’s first mass. All of these talents are reflected in his conceptual perfumes. His range, Unum, was launched in 2014.

Rosa Nigra is an utterly captivating, enveloping and complex rose fragrance. Actually, it’s more of an experience, which is inspired by French cathedrals and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Except it doesn’t contain a rose note. He creates the effect through an olfactory illusion. Sorcinelli achieves this by playing with a variety of notes, especially freesia and peach, and fleshes it out with absinthe, sandalwood, cashmere wood, amber, vanilla and musk.

Every detail, from the choice of notes to the design of the bottle, has symbolic significance. And you don’t have to be a Catholic, religious or spiritual to “get” it.

Best Rose Fragrances

CHLOE EDP* (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE & MICHEL ALMAIRAC)

Launched in 2008, Chloé EDP proved to be a huge hit for the French fashion label. And for very good reason. It’s a beautifully fresh floral fragrance that showcases rose.

That freshness is evident right from the opening notes of freesia, peony and lychee. When the rose comes through, it’s dewy, perfectly pretty and supported by lily-of-the-valley and magnolia notes. Featuring notes of amber and cedar, the drydown is warm and woody.

Yes, it’s a popular fragrance. But don’t let that put you off sniffing out this modern classic that can give much pricier niche options a run for their money.

Best Rose Fragrances

DIPTYQUE EAU CAPITALE EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche fragrance brand pays tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity with this 2019 release.

The intro belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose from Turkey and Bulgaria. This is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background.

For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy characteristics of Indonesian heart of vetiver and Haitian vetiver.

Best Rose Fragrances

ACQUA DI PARMA ROSA NOBILE EDP*

Acqua di Parma’s Le Nobili Collection has a floral focus and includes peony and magnolia versions. Rosa Nobile is an absolute beauty.

This EDP centres on Centifolia rose buds. According to the Italian niche brand, these are hand-picked from an organic plantation in Piedmont. They give the scent a fresh, leafy facet that’s perfectly complemented by notes of Sicilian mandarin, pepper, peony, cedarwood and musk. There’s also a hint of ambergris in the drydown, which could be why this perfume is usually on the pricey side.

I’d love to congratulate the creator of this 2014 release on a job well done, but Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t disclose its perfumers.

Best Rose Fragrances

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP*

There are many notable fragrances in the Swedish niche brand’s line-up, including Pulp, Super Cedar, Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique. But the lesser-known and charmingly named Rose of No Man’s Land, inspired by the nickname given by soldiers to the life-saving nurses during World War I, is highly recommended if you’re looking for a gentle intro to rose fragrances.

This 2015 release opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by subtle pink peppercorn. The centrepiece is softly-enveloping Turkish rose absolute, nicely finished off with notes of amber and papyrus.

It’s a very warm, agreeable and accessible fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

Best Rose Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN L’EAU A LA ROSE EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Launched in 2014, Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP is a truly gorgeous rose fragrance. This 2019 release is a good alternative if you’re looking for a softer, but equally alluring take on the theme.

It opens with an airy lychee accord, without becoming a typically sweet fruity floral. Centifolia rose absolute and Damascena rose oil give this EDT its floral flair, while peony keeps it on the fresh side of things.

Settling on a base of musks, it’s luxurious and sensual in a quiet way. Perfect for spring and summer – and even before bedtime.

Best Rose Fragrances

DS & DURGA ROSE ATLANTIC EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)

Trust self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz of NYC-based niche fragrance house DS & Durga to do something completely different with a rose perfume.

You’ll know this is not the usual rose scent right from the opening of this 2016 release, featuring bitter-ish notes of bergamot and lemon oil, with rose petals slightly softening the effect. A fine rose accord comes through in the heart of the fragrance, with linden blossom in support. But this is a rose drenched in salt water. Lots of it. As if you’re aboard the ship Salt Spray Rose. What a clever boy!

A dose of white moss completes the mood.

Best Rose Fragrances

LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex fragrance, the NYC-based niche fragrance house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.

This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.

It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded.

Best Rose Fragrances

LANCOME IDOLE EDP (SHYAMALA MAISONDIEU, ADRIANA MEDINA-BAEZ & NADEGE LE GARLANTEZEC)

Lancôme’s first new perfume since the decade-defining La Vie est Belle has received much love and hate since its release in 2019. Negative reviews have declared it “boring” and “predictable”. I say try it for yourself. Well composed and a great example of a clean rose scent, it earns its place on this best rose fragrances list.

A delicately sweet note of pear opens the fragrance. Two essences (an absolute and rose water) have been used to make rose the star of the show. They give it a fresh, pure and green quality. Jasmine is in the background.

White musks feature in the drydown and maintain the sense of purity.

Best Rose Fragrances

*These best rose fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics. 

Posted on

Penhaligon’s 150th Anniversary: Interview With Company CEO Lance Patterson

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

I recently celebrated Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary by compiling a list of their 10 best fragrances. With hindsight, I probably should have done a top 20. There are so many standouts from this British heritage brand that was founded by barber William Penhaligon in 1870.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

ENTREPRENEURIAL FOUNDER: The life of William Penhaligon is integral to the Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary celebrations.

In this post I continue to mark Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary in an interview with Lance Patterson, the company’s CEO (pictured below). He talks to me about their new fragrance launch, the effects of the coronavirus, the importance of heritage and customer preferences.

Image: Penhaligon’s.

How is the company celebrating its 150th year in business?

We are highlighting this important milestone throughout the year by telling the stories that make up our rich history on our digital platforms, as well as when we get back into retail.

A key moment was the launch of The Favourite in early March, a stunning floral fragrance with notes of mimosa, violet leaf, bergamot and sandalwood. It was inspired by Sarah Churchill, the Duchess of Marlborough, a very influential woman of her time and best friend of Queen Anne. Sarah was the Keeper of the Privy Purse and the Mistress of the Robes, responsible for the royal wardrobe. She was also instrumental in building Blenheim Palace. It’s one of the most impressive palaces in England and a place of great importance to Penhaligon’s heritage where one of our most iconic scents was born in 1902.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

Blenheim Bouquet was created in 1902 by Walter Penhaligon, William’s son, and was a private commission by the ninth Duke of Marlborough who resided at Blenheim Palace. So we are very proud to celebrate the brand’s history with a nod to this chapter and introduce another classic yet thoroughly modern fragrance.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

ROYAL INSPIRATION: Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire, is of great importance to Penhaligon’s heritage. Image: Penhaligon’s.

We are also gearing up for an iconic Christmas campaign that will celebrate the brand’s British heritage and its spirit of generosity.

How has the coronavirus pandemic affected the Penhaligon’s 150th anniversary celebrations?

Although we had to cancel our big global event for the 150th anniversary, we adapted quickly to the new environment. We are now focusing on digital campaigns and bringing the brand alive in a number of interactive ways on social media, the website and via email marketing.

People are spending a lot of time online and we found new ways to connect with them via tools like Instagram Live or series of online Q&As, where we delve into the brand and celebrate our fragrances old and new.

Penhaligon’s 150th Anniversary

Heritage and tradition are very much part of the brand. How is that balanced with more modern trends and tastes?

We love bringing a more contemporary experience to our customer through initiatives such as online Fragrance Profiling, which helps you find your perfect scent and sample it at home. At the heart of our Fragrance Profiling is a rich history of storytelling around our scents.  When we share these stories and give our consumers more knowledge and history behind the fragrances, we see a much stronger long-term connection being established.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

BRAND HISTORY: The front of the store on 33 St James Street, London, when the company was known as Penhaligon & Jeavons in the 1890s. Image: Penhaligon’s.

Our loyal consumers love sharing what they learn and become our finest ambassadors. They love the entertaining and quirky side of the brand that we embodied in olfactive fiction in the Portraits collection, which has become a great success story for the brand. The connection people make with the Portraits’ characters shows the strength in storytelling for fragrances.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

What would fans be surprised to know about Penhaligon’s?

Many don’t know that our founder, William Penhaligon, was from Cornwall originally and moved with his entire family to London to set up shop. He was the original young entrepreneur, had a unique vision and made his dream happen.

“William Penhaligon was the original young entrepreneur, had a unique vision and made his dream happen.”

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

What’s the best-selling product?

Best-sellers change depending on the season and region. But globally our market can’t get enough of The Tragedy of Lord George, Halfeti and The Coveted Duchess Rose. But there are others that have been our top sellers for more than 100 years such as Blenheim Bouquet.

However, we know that fragrance is a personal choice and want to offer our customers a lot of variety and options, hence having over 50 fragrances in our collection.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Which country is the company’s biggest market?

Our domestic market is very important for us, but the brand is loved in many other parts of the world, with Asia being a rapidly growing region in the past few years.

What do the company’s various markets tell us about their customers’ preferences?

Although there definitely are local nuances when it comes to fragrance preferences, we also notice that customers globally are looking for a very individualistic expression of their personality. They increasingly want more unique scents, especially the younger clientele.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE: The Penhaligon’s store on Wellington Street, Covent Garden, in London. Image: Penhaligon’s.

For example, young Arabic customers are choosing less oud-based scents and exploring florals and gourmands. In Asia fresher, lighter scents are favoured, but again a younger demographic often go for more opulent scents like Lord George and Halfeti.

Penhaligon’s justifiably is seen as a niche fragrance success story. But what’s been the company’s costliest mistake? And how was that rectified?

Like all brands, Penhaligon’s has faced challenges when entering different markets in a rapidly changing retail landscape. One of our most important lessons was with our expansion into the US. We took risks in opening too quickly and have had to reassess how best to move forward.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Can you share some interesting Penhaligon’s stats with my readers?

Hammam Bouquet is turning 148 this year. This icon of the brand, created by William Penhaligon himself, makes Chanel No 5, at 99 years old, look like a youngster.

Penhaligon's 150th Anniversary

Image: Penhaligon’s.

 

Posted on

10 Best Penhaligon’s Fragrances To Celebrate The British Brand’s 150th Anniversary

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

There aren’t that many fragrance companies that can celebrate 150 years in the biz. But then Penhaligon’s isn’t just any brand. It has come to represent the best of British heritage since it was founded in 1870 by William Penhaligon. As you can imagine, I had a really hard time narrowing this list down to just 10 best Penhaligon’s fragrances. But I hope that it will give you a good idea of the top-notch quality and creativity on offer.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

HERITAGE: William Penhaligon founded his company in 1870. Image: Penhaligon’s.

What started out as a barbershop has evolved into a Puig-owned company that niftily balances tradition and modernity, with three royal warrants along the way.

The company’s debut fragrance, the woody-floral Hammam Bouquet, was launched in 1872 and remains a best-seller to this day.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

You will notice that many of the fragrances on this list are recent releases. Proof that Penhaligon’s is not just trading on its illustrious heritage.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Penhaligon’s fragrances?

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet EDT

I begin my best Penhaligon’s fragrances list with this absolute classic. Originally launched in 1902, it was created for the Duke of Marlborough, according to the brand’s website, and has lost none of its charm over the decades.

Interestingly, on a technical level, it has no heart notes. But it’s the super-refined opening of lemon, lime and lavender notes that keeps me coming back for more. That, and the drydown of pine, musk and black pepper notes.

It’s officially a male fragrance. But you know better than to be limited by such things, especially in spring and summer when it’s the ideal tonic for the heat.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (Christian Provenzano)

There’s no shortage of quality oud fragrances on the market, but it’s this best-seller that always gets my attention.

Inspired by the Turkish town of Halfeti, this 2015 release has a very brief fresh opening, courtesy of grapefruit, green and artemisia notes. It then moves rapidly into more heady territory when the notes of cumin, nutmeg, rose and saffron come into play. Oud is the centrepiece of the fragrance and is very ably assisted by notes of leather, amber, vanilla, tonka and sandalwood.

This EDP is rich, warm and intense in all the right ways.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (OLIVIER CRESP)

Launched in 2011, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling is inspired by the quality of London dry gin.

Juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive style, open this unisex EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern boozy classic than its gin intro. A cocktail of citrus (orange), spices (black pepper and cardamom), herbs (angelica) and a hint of sugar all complement each other.

It’s more of a skin scent, so if you only go for power performers, this one might not be for you. But you will be missing out on a fragrance that develops beautifully on the skin.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S THE UNCOMPROMISING SOHAN 

A humorous take on the idea of the fragrance family, the Penhaligon’s Portraits collection was launched in 2016. It includes an assortment of EDPs named after delightful characters, including Clandestine Clara, Heartless Helen and The Bewitching Yasmine.

I love this 2017 release for its big, bold and powdery rose opening, with spicy pink pepper in the background. I don’t pick up much of the listed vetiver, but all is forgiven when the dynamic between the rose and Laotian oud (one of the best varieties) is so gorgeous. Sandalwood adds to the delicious oriental mood.

It’s on the pricey side, but the exquisite packaging is part of the deal.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S ELISABETHAN ROSE EDP

Inspired by the Tudor rose and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, this 2018 release is one of the most distinctive rose fragrances I’ve smelled in a long time.

Its unusual character is evident right from the nutty opening notes of hazelnut leaf and almond oil. Cinnamon adds to the warmth. The queen of florals dominates the heart of the scent, in particular rose centifolia oil and rose absolute. Their fruity potency is accentuated by red lily.

Eventually settling on a base of woody, musk and vetiver notes, it’s powerful stuff, so one or two sprays will more than do.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

Penhaligon’s Iris Prima EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Looking for a super-elegant iris fragrance created by one of the world’s top perfumers? Then this 2013 release is for you.

It begins in fresh ’n spicy mode with notes of bergamot and pink pepper, and then transitions to the star of the show. This iris is full of powderiness and is partnered with a dose of jasmine, which has a slight animalic quality.

That animalic vibe is further developed in the drydown where an oh-so-smooth leather note predominates. Its creaminess is enhanced by woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRE EDP

Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender classic. But the Concentré version gets my vote, as it offers greater depth and longevity.

It opens with freshly elegant notes of bergamot and lavender, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness. A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal.

It’s too good to be monopolised by men only.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S LOTHAIR EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Wow! That’s my response every time I wear this multi-faceted 2014 release. I’m sure you will feel the same way when you sniff it out.

It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by all the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. And boy, does this deliver on the unusual front!

Aromatic juniper berries set the tone in the opening, but there are also accents of grapefruit, cardamom, red berries and fig leaf to tease the imagination. Notes of fig milk, black tea and lavender stand out in the heart of the EDT. The olfactory pleasure keeps on coming in the drydown that features a perfect union of vanilla, ambergris and woody notes.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S AS SAWIRA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

This 2015 release is another treasure from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection. Taking its inspiration from the abundance of opulent goods to be found in a souk (Arabian bazaar), it’s a beautifully executed woody EDP.

Opening notes of saffron, artemisia and absinthe create a rich and intoxicating ambience. The intensity progresses to the heart of the fragrance, featuring a melange of floral and spice notes, in particular rose, carnation, cardamom and cloves.

There’s a lot going on in the complex drydown, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of oud, myrrh, sandalwood and amber to the overall sensuality.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S ARTEMISIA EDP

After all that full-on opulence, I complete my round-up of the best Penhaligon’s fragrances with the understated luxury of this 2002 release.

A softly sweet note of nectarine sets the tone, with a touch of greenery in the background. Violet infuses the heart of the fragrance with a delectable powderiness, while notes of jasmine tea and lily-of-the-valley provide floral and green nuances respectively.

An almost caramel-y vanilla (without being gourmand-ish) is complemented by a large dose of seductive musk and creamy sandalwood in the drydown.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances

All of the fragrances on this best Penhaligon’s fragrances list are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.  

Posted on

Anne Flipo Interview: The Creation Of YSL Libre EDP

Anne Flipo

Mention some of the biggest fragrances of the last decade and chances are that Anne Flipo was behind them. The French perfumer is highly respected in the industry and by her many fans for her accomplished and distinctive work across the niche and designer fragrance categories.

Some of her standout creations and co-creations during her career include:

  • L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT (1999)
  • Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia EDP (2010)
  • Lancôme La Vie est Belle EDP (2012)
  • Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT (2013)
  • Chloé Love Story EDP (2014)
  • Jimmy Choo Illicit EDP (2015)
  • Paco Rabanne Olympéa EDP (2015)
  • Jo Malone Herb Garden Collection (2016)
  • Givenchy L’Interdit EDP (2018)

Anne Flipo

Anne Flipo has also produced several successful fragrances for YSL, including L’Homme EDT (2006) and Manifesto EDP (2012). So it’s no surprise that the luxury French fashion brand sought her expertise to create their new fragrance, YSL Libre, which was released in 2019. See my review of it at the end of this interview.

Anne Flipo

She originally wanted to study flavours, but changed direction after falling under the spell of perfumery. Her work has been recognised through several awards, including the Cosmetique Magazine Perfumer of the Year award in 2014, Cosmetic Executive Women France Achiever Award for Creation in 2016 and Fragrance Foundation Awards for Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana Cologne (2018), among others.

In this email interview, Anne Flipo talks to me about her career, the creation of YSL Libre and the joys of orange blossom.

Where and when were you born?

I was born in 1963 in Laon in the north of France.

How is the coronavirus affecting you and your work?

Three years ago I organised an office in my home in the north of France, so working from home is nothing new for me.

What fragrance are you wearing today?

Today I’m working, so for better evaluation of the fragrance I am working on, I prefer not be perfumed.

Anne Flipo

When did you know that you wanted to become a perfumer?

I have always been strongly attracted to scents and olfactive materials, especially flowers. Later, when I was a student, I was a trainee in a fragrance house. It was obvious to me that I belonged in this world. I enjoyed discovering essential oils and trying to associate them so much, I thought being a perfumer would suit me perfectly.

“Someone told me that being a woman would make my project ‘uneasy’. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day.”

Besides, at that time, someone told me that being a woman would make my project “uneasy”. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day. I am quite obstinate in a way.

Anne Flipo

You studied at ISIPCA in Versailles. What was the most valuable thing you learned while studying there?

I had a lot of time to learn about raw materials, smelling and evaluating.

What didn’t they teach you while studying that you had to learn for yourself through experience?

Everything! I really began my training when I worked with my mentors such as Michel Almairac [the creator of fragrances such as Christian Dior Fahrenheit EDT, Gucci Rush EDP and Le Labo Ambrette 9 EDP].

Anne Flipo

How would you describe your fragrance style?

Difficult question. I’d say I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind. Orange blossom takes a huge part in my signature too. It is the ingredient I would never be fed up with. I could create a thousand perfumes around it, without it ever being redundant.

“I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind.”

What was the brief for YSL Libre?

The initial brief was to revisit the [often masculine] fougère for women.

Anne Flipo

How did you feel when it was announced on the same day in 2019 that IFF [the company she has worked for since 2004] were recognising you as a master perfumer and that your Libre proposal had been accepted?

I felt overwhelmed with emotion. It was a double recognition of my work and my career as a whole.

YSL Libre was a collaborative project with Carlos Benaïm. How did this collaboration work? Did you meet while working on this project?

I came up with the original idea and asked Carlos to step in. We worked separately and at each step we chose the best version as a new starting point while keeping the vision.

I fell in love with Carlos’s orange blossom absolute, because it brought opulence while maintaining its freshness.

During the seven years of development, Carlos and I were constantly in touch. We met several times during these years and each brought our own arrangements to the formula. We smelled them together in order to choose the best of our “mod” (in perfumers’ language, it’s an olfactory trial). Libre was a true four-handed creation between Paris and NYC. The fruit of a beautiful collaboration on both sides of the Atlantic.

PERFECTIONIST: Anne Flipo created YSL Libre EDP in a very close collaboration with Carlos Benaïm.

Apart from its seven years of development, YSL Libre apparently took more than 1 570 tries. Why did it take so long for it to eventually to come to fruition?

Fragrance creation is generally a long-term endeavour – a long and fascinating journey. Indeed, Libre took us more than 1750 trials, maybe because both Carlos and I are perfectionists. We worked hand in hand from each side of the Atlantic to achieve the perfect balance for the formula.

ALL ABOUT YVES: YSL Libre is inspired by the gender-bending spirit of legendary French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Image: YSL.

The fragrance has intriguing masculine and feminine aspects. How did you achieve that?

Libre is a freestyle take on the fougère to reveal its original feminine facet. We revisited this masculine structure by insisting on details that could turn it into a very feminine scent, just like Yves Saint Laurent re-tailored the tuxedo for women.

Lavender from France embodies the spirit of the fougère structure. We decided to blend it with orange flower from Morocco to obtain a gender-bending heart playing with both masculine and feminine facets.

SUITABLE INSPIRATION: Helmut Newton’s iconic image of YSL Le Smoking tuxedo for French Vogue in 1975. Image: YSL.

Looking back at your impressive body of work, do you have a particular favourite?

No, because all of my creations are unique. I treasure all of them, as I created them with passion.

What other projects have you just completed?

I completed YSL L’Homme Le Parfum this year and the other projects are confidential for now.

Anne Flipo

FRAGROOM YSL LIBRE EDP REVIEW

When two top perfumers collaborate on a project, success is not necessarily guaranteed. But then Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm are no ordinary “noses”. Both come with major credentials and their experience is displayed to great effect in YSL Libre.

The EDP opens with the distinctive character of fresh lavender. A special variety grown in Provence, diva lavender, was used by the perfumers. It’s warm, slightly sweet and unmistakably floral, instead of the clean and cool customer many of us may be used to. It’s strengthened with the addition of lavandin heart. So there’s no getting away from the lavender profile of this scent. There’s a bit of fresh citrusy action too, courtesy of notes of mandarin orange and neroli.

Anne Flipo

The fresh aspect is further developed when the orange blossom comes through. And boy, does it shine in a rich and most sensual way! Another white floral, jasmine sambac, is present in the mix, but it knows its supportive place in the scheme of things.

Image: YSL.

The drydown is dominated by a special extract of vanilla from Madagascar, thankfully not the sickly sweet kind. This deep one has quality written all over it. It works particularly well together with the musk and amber.

Kudos to the creators for this fragrance with a twist that doesn’t smell like everything else on the market. While it’s clearly intended to be a best-seller, not everyone will like its play on the masculine and the feminine. Expect to see several flankers over this decade.

YSL Libre EDP, R1 060 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 050 for 90ml. For more info, read here.

Anne Flipo

 

Posted on

Sophie Berdoues Interview: Four Generations Of Perfumery

Berdoues

Heritage is a valuable commodity in the perfume industry, and Berdoues has it in abundance. Founded in 1902 by barber Guillaume Berdoues, the French company has remained a family-owned business over four generations and is currently led by the founder’s great grand-daughter, Sophie Berdoues.

I first heard of the brand last year when its Collection Grands Crus was launched in South Africa (its older collection 1902 might be launched in the country at a later stage).

For obvious reasons, travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. This range of 12 mostly unisex EDPs makes the most of it with an impressive variety of fairly straightforward, feel-good blends that evoke destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

Image: MapStudio.

I got to try all of the EDPs that are available in the country at a media launch in Cape Town in February this year. Two, in particular, have become regulars in my fragrance wardrobe.

Taking its cue from the Amazon rainforest and created by Jennifer Riley, Selva do Brazil opens with a super-fresh note of petitgrain from Paraguay. It’s sharp, invigorating and lushly green in character. Notes of tonka bean from Brazil and guaiac wood from Argentina add to the forest-y ambience. It’s a simple composition, but never fails to give me a mood boost.

Berdoues

Created by Philippe Romano, Maasaï Mara is a mellower and warmer, but equally appealing affair. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape.

Berdoues

I got to interview Sophie Berdoues via email about the importance of heritage, the collection and her work.

What is your main responsibility as president of the company?

I develop and lead the company’s strategy with my team. We define the general objectives, but I leave the final decisions about the financial, material and human resources to execute within the guidelines and decisions taken. I also lead the company’s management committee and am responsible for its results.

What’s the best part of your job?

The team work and launch of new projects.

And the most stressful?

Sometimes having to make important decisions for the business alone.

Berdoues is very much about heritage. Why is it so important to you?

My father, like my grandfather, spent a lot of time and energy to develop high-quality perfumes. My father passed on to me the passion for perfumery, raw materials and, above all, freedom. I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.

“I am deeply attached to my roots – they give me the strength to move forward with my convictions.”

Berdoues

FAMILY WAY: Sophie Berdoues is very proud of her family’s perfume heritage, which includes, clockwise from top right, her father Pierre, her grandfather Henri and great-grandfather Guillaume. Images: Berdoues.

Why did you launch the Collection Grand Crus?

We wanted to give a nod to my family through perfumes highlighting the most beautiful raw materials of perfumery, which I started to smell at a very young age. This is what seduced my family at the beginning of this story and today our consumers. We wanted to tell a story of travel through natural materials selected for their olfactory qualities – blends like the great French wines.

What criteria do you use for the perfumers who create the fragrances for the Collection?

It all starts with cards, photos, desires and a blank sheet. The destination inspires our perfumers. A lived or fantasised memory, it reveals a world region which, for us, carries history. This creation builds the search for materials where it is best expressed olfactively. The beauty of the world is endless, and so are our creations.

The fragrances are very reasonably priced. How did you achieve that?

We made the strategic choice of placing the entire budget in what is most important to us: perfume. And there, it’s my roots that speak. We have surrounded ourselves with perfumers based in Grasse, the cradle of perfumery in the south of France. For the other aspects of product creation, we have chosen to work with a standard bottle that we have dressed. We also work with local partners for all items of the product.

Berdoues fragrances are available from selected Foschini and Truworths stores. R1 595 for 100ml. 

*This post is sponsored by Orleans Cosmetics, the distributor of Berdoues Collection Grands Crus in South Africa.*

 

Posted on

Best Chanel Fragrances For Every Situation

Best Chanel Fragrances

Chanel has been in the fragrance biz since 1921. What an auspicious debut Chanel No 5 proved to be! Almost a century later, the company has maintained its reputation for elegant and timeless compositions, and there’s no shortage of contenders for a best Chanel fragrances list.

This is a considerable achievement when you consider how many brands have allowed their heritage to be diluted at the expense of quick cash. Instead, Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.

“Chanel has made heritage and the life of its unique founder an integral part of its lucrative perfume business.”

With an impressive mix of classics and new launches, Chanel offers discerning fragrance consumers the ideal selection of options for every situation. I’ve rounded up some of the best in a variety of categories, including classic, casual, work, romantic night out, summer and winter.

The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance. If you’re wondering why the same perfumers’ names keep on popping up on this list, that’s because Chanel, in the tradition of the grand maisons of old, relies on the expertise of their in-house perfumer.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CLASSIC
CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.

Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in a number of ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased the compound aldehydes, with its fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.

In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.

Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

Launched in 1984, Coco bears all the hallmarks of the decade. It’s big, bold and brash – by Chanel standards. And I mean that as a compliment.

A brief Sicilian mandarin note gives way to the distinctive spiciness of coriander. There’s more spice in the form of cloves. They can sometimes be overly domineering, but here they’re perfectly balanced by notes of Bulgarian rose, Tunisian orange blossom, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang from the Comoros.

As to be expected from an oriental, the drydown is rich and dense. Notes of Indonesian patchouli, benzoin and tonka bean work together to create a thoroughly grown-up fragrance that oozes retro glamour.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – CASUAL
CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.

It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau is my casual choice.

The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes in the opening, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.

Best Chanel Fragrances

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL 1957 EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

The latest addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private collection is undoubtedly a Chanel creation. It has a deceptive simplicity about it.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness.

There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance.

It’s a chic skin scent in which the best ingredients have been used to create it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WORK
CHANEL ALLURE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)

We all know how increasingly tricky the work fragrance scenario is. Something that will make you stand out, without offending the sensitivities of others. Which is why I can’t think of a better office option than this multi-dimensional 1999 release. It gets the balance between power and subtlety oh so right.

It begins in fresh citrus territory with pronounced notes of mandarin orange and lemon. Peach adds a slightly fruity element. Featuring notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, water lily, magnolia and freesia, the heart is floral a-go-go, without any of the associated sweetness, but more on the fresh side of things. They are complemented by a delicate touch of rose.

After all that fresh, fruity and floral action, Allure takes on an oriental character in the drydown with a big dose of quality vanilla that’s supported by creamy sandalwood.

As with many Chanel fragrances, it’s also available in EDT and parfum versions.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL CRISTALLE EAU VERTE EDT CONCENTREE (JACQUES POLGE)

One of the lesser-known Chanel fragrances, this 2009 flanker to the 1974 original is well worth sniffing out. Inspired by the designer’s love of the outdoors, it works a treat when you’re all cooped up behind your computer screen, thanks to its fresh, floral and green accents.

Featuring notes of bergamot and Amalfi lemon, the opening epitomises sparkling freshness. Neroli continues the theme in the heart of the scent, with its bitter-sweet nuances. A note of magnolia brings a floral aspect – it’s crisp and opulent at the same time – while jasmine infuses it with a delicate sweetness.

Settling with a musky drydown, this EDT doesn’t have the best longevity. So I recommend keeping it in your bag for the occasional, refreshing top-up.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – ROMANTIC NIGHT OUT 
CHANEL CHANCE TENDRE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

Just when I’d given up on many modern fruity florals, along comes the youthful Chanel Chance Tendre to restore my faith in the popular genre. Launched in 2019, it’s the fourth addition to the range that originally made its debut in 2003.

Notes of grapefruit and quince set the citrus-fruity mood. What relief! There’s none of the screechy sweetness that’s prevalent in so many other examples. It’s soft and most appealing. The fragrance really comes into its own when jasmine absolute and rose essence make their presence felt. A sophisticated floralcy to be enjoyed by you and your date.

And then there’s the musk, which brings it all together in a very skilful and romantic way.

It’s not a reinvention of the fruity floral as we know it, but it’s certainly a masterly fine-tuning of it.

Best Chanel Fragrances

GABRIELLE CHANEL ESSENCE EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

As with its predecessor, Gabrielle Chanel EDP, this 2019 release is inspired by the maverick spirit of Coco Chanel. The new version isn’t a radical departure from the original but, like any worthwhile flanker, offers something different in its own right – a richer and denser character.

It opens with a light and fresh sprinkle of citrus notes, while a red berry note is just discernible in the background. This is a white floral fragrance when the heart notes come into play. Olivier Polge has not skimped on the ingredients, which include jasmine, ylang-ylang from the Comoros, Tunisian orange blossom and an exclusive variety of tuberose. Together, they create an enticingly luxurious effect with just the right amount of sweetness.

The tuberose is the star of the show, but it doesn’t smother the other florals. It’s typically creamy, but with a refined freshness. That elegant mood carries through to the drydown, where white musk predominates, with sandalwood and vanilla in support.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – SUMMER  
CHANEL NO 19 EDP (HENRI ROBERT)

Launched in 1970 and created by Ernest Beaux’s successor, Chanel No 19 refers to the birth date of Coco Chanel, who was born on August 19, 1883. It was also the last Chanel fragrance to be created while the grande dame was still alive (she died in 1971). Historical significance aside, I love this classic for its unusual floral-woody-green character.

It begins with citrus-fresh notes of bergamot and neroli. But they are secondary to the large dose of galbanum, which gives this EDP its outstanding bitter-green profile. Iris pallida softens the initial impact with powderiness, while notes of ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose bring floral intensity to the mix. The woody base notes of oakmoss and vetiver keep it resolutely sharp.

Fifty years after its initial launch, this EDP remains a complex and compelling beauty. It’s probably the least crowd-pleasing Chanel fragrance.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018, with three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. The latest addition to the range, launched in 2019, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

For Paris-Riviera, Olivier Polge took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the gentle juice, in which nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. A special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, is blended with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. The jasmine flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

Get your hands on this limited edition before May 2020.

Best Chanel Fragrances

BEST CHANEL FRAGRANCES – WINTER  
CHANEL COCO NOIR EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

In a fragrance world where flankers are often a case of ever-diminishing returns, you can rely on Chanel to give you a very good reason to spend your hard-earned cash on another extension to one of their best ranges.

Launched in 2012, Coco Noir takes its inspiration from the fashion legend’s love of black and Venice. It’s a suitably baroque affair with oriental flair.

The intro of bergamot, orange and grapefruit notes is deceptively citrus-fresh, but deliciously sensual. It doesn’t take long for rose to reveal its romantic intentions. And who can say no to such a lush take on the queen of flowers? A geranium leaf note adds to the rosiness. The base belongs to patchouli in all its rich, dark and exotic glory. Tonka bean and sandalwood bring warm creaminess to the composition.

I’ve recommended this one for winter, but it would work equally well for a romantic night out.

Best Chanel Fragrances

CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EDP INTENSE (OLIVIER POLGE)

When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental made its mark on a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.

Olivier Polge, le fils de Jacques Polge (excuse my basic French), created a worthy successor to Coco Chanel Mademoiselle EDP with Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, which was launched in 2018.

It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original, but then Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been amplified with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent.

My sources tell me that a new version of Coco Mademoiselle is to be launched this year.

Best Chanel Fragrances

*All fragrances available at Edgars, except Chanel 1957, which is only available at the Sandton City (Johannesburg) and V&A Waterfront (Cape Town) stores.

Posted on

Best Incense Fragrances: The Smoky Edition

Incense Fragrances

Incense has been used over the centuries in a variety of religious, spiritual and cultural practices from China and Japan to India and Arabia. The smell of burning incense and the waft of its smoke continues to enchant perfume-lovers. As you would expect, incense fragrances tend to have an oriental vibe.

I’ve included a variety of incense fragrances on this list, from those where it is the dominant note to those where there’s just a hint of it. Not everyone goes for the full incense experience.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite incense fragrances?

Incense Fragrances

AMOUAGE INTERLUDE WOMAN EDP* (KARINE VINCHON SPEHNER)

There’s a lot happening in this multi-layered 2012 release from the Oman-based niche fragrance house, but these are some of the highlights.

Opulent honey-tinged marigolds are the first to catch my attention in the opening, followed by a herbal dose of immortelle. But it’s the seductive smoke from the frankincense and myrrh that gets me every time. The drydown maintains the sensual atmosphere. Leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and a smidgeon of oud are all discernible in the luxe mix.

ORTO PARISI TERRONI PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Maverick Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri prefers to explain the distinctive creations from his niche fragrance brand through story-telling, instead of notes. While some perfume stories tell you nothing, the one for this 2017 release says it all.

Inspired by the volcanic land surrounding Mount Vesuvius, it’s suitably earthy and fiery with stand-out notes of dark cocoa, berries, vetiver and patchouli. Dark and smoky incense weaves its way throughout the scent.

This is a potent parfum, so spray lightly when applying it, as it lasts forever and a day. Also look out for Gualtieri’s infamous cannabis-infused Black Afgano from his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which has a strong incense element.

Incense Fragrances

ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! POUR LUI EDT (NATHALIE LORSON & AURELIEN GUICHARD)

The French fashion label is popular for its rock-chic aesthetic. What’s less well-known is that it has several quality fragrances. Officially marketed at men, but perfectly unisex, Just Rock! Pour Lui is one of their best.

This 2017 release opens with the warm, vanilla-ish overtones of tonka bean, which is further enhanced by a black vanilla note. The incense note makes its presence felt early in the fragrance’s progression. Sophisticated yet accessible, it’s complemented by a twist of spice, settling on a base of earthy patchouli.

A simple, but effective composition, it’s one of the the best-priced incense fragrances you’ll find.

Incense Fragrances

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR EDP (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

There are many reasons to always have a bottle of Guerlain Shalimar in your fragrance wardrobe. Some of these include:

  • It’s an all-time classic that has lost none of its magnificence since its launch in 1925.
  • It’s widely celebrated as the first oriental perfume.
  • Inspired by the great love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it’s gorgeously romantic.

It will take you on an olfactory journey through bergamot, iris, jasmine, rose vanilla and tonka bean notes. The incense in the drydown is smoky and sensual. It makes its presence felt without spelling it out.

Incense Fragrances

MEMO SIWA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo is highly regarded for their leather range, Cuir Nomades, which includes African, French and Irish versions. From their Graines Vagabondes collection, Siwa is also worthy of your attention. It’s inspired by the Siwa urban oasis in the Egyptian part of the Sahara Desert.

This 2007 release opens in spicy mode with a note of cinnamon leaf oil, followed by slightly sweet notes of narcissus absolute and freesia, featuring green nuances. Vanilla dominates the drydown, while a gentle take on the incense theme accentuates the oriental mood.

For a heavier take on incense, sniff out Memo Tiger’s Nest.

Incense Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Founded in the 1970s in Paris, L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of the niche fragrance industry’s pioneers. Its well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was launched in 1999.

A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience. Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and amber add sweetness to the blend, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

Incense Fragrances

EX NIHILO OUD VENDOME EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche brand specialises in luxurious fragrances made from the best ingredients, and Oud Vendôme is typical of its modern approach to perfumery.

The intro is delicately spicy with notes of ginger and saffron, transitioning to a heart that balances green galbanum and woody cedar. The combo of precious agarwood and soothing incense in the drydown is super-smooth and sophisticated. A big dose of musk brings cosiness to the mix.

This 2014 woody oriental has a decidedly Western feel. Nothing wrong with that when it’s this chic.

Incense Fragrances

ELLA K BAISER DE FLORENCE* (SONIA CONSTANT)

From Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle and Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau to Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her and Tom Ford Orchid Soleil, Sonia Constant is one of my favourite perfumers.

The Parisian founded her own niche fragrance company in 2017 and Baiser de Florence, inspired by a visit to a Florentine church, was one of her first releases.

This is primarily an iris fragrance, a suitably powdery and cool one at that, but it’s the trail of incense that keeps me coming back for more. Wood and musk complete the soft and romantic mood.

Incense Fragrances

YSL CAFTAN EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Launched in 2015, this EDP is from the French fashion brand’s perfume wardrobe-inspired Le Vestiaire des Parfums private collection. It was created by the brilliant Calice Becker (Kilian Back to Black, Dior J’Adore, Giorgio Armani Ambre Eccentrico), so you know you’re in for a treat.

There’s a brief, barely noticeable citrus intro, but that’s okay, because we’re here for the rich, resinous smokiness of olibanum (frankincense), benzoin and styrax. What a seductive trio – all bringing out the best in each other!

The luxurious oriental mood continues through to the drydown, with labdanum in deep ambery mode. A dash of musk heightens the warmth.

Incense Fragrances

KILIAN INCENSE OUD EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

For a more intense oud and incense experience, you can’t go wrong with this 2011 release from the niche fragrance company founded by Kilian Hennessy. As the heir to the luxury cognac dynasty, he’s au fait with all things luxury, and Incense Oud delivers that in abundance.

A rich rose in full bloom sets the scene for the scent, with warm spicy notes of cardamom and pink pepper in the background. Patchouli accentuates the opulent vibe. It doesn’t take long for the precious oud and smoky incense to come through. Deep stuff! Sandalwood adds just the right amount of creaminess.

Incense Fragrances

ROOS & ROOS MENTHA RELIGIOSA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

French niche fragrance house Roos & Roos was founded in 2014 by beauty industry veteran Chantal Roos and her daughter, Alexandra. Mentha Religiosa won the Fragrance Foundation’s best independent perfume award in 2017 for good reason. It’s full of intriguing contrasts.

It makes a cool and fresh first impression with sharp notes of citrusy bergamot and peppery mint. Things warm up in the drydown where incense takes the leading role. It’s the kind you’d smell at a Catholic mass. Notes of patchouli and cedar provide earthy and woody support.

Incense Fragrances

Image: roosandroos.fr

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

Posted on

I’m A Video Star (Sort Of)

Okay, so that “video star” title could go down as a classic example of clickbait. But there’s a teeny-weeny bit of truth to it, too.

I was contacted a while ago by the très charmant French vlogger Clémence CC Fragrance to check if I would mind her using a story I wrote, 6 New Rules of Wearing Cologne (Plus 2 Old Ones), for an American  website last year as inspiration for a post of hers. And had completely forgotten about it, until she got in touch with me.

People don’t always acknowledge their inspiration, so I was doubly impressed. First, by the initial contact and then the actual post itself. Clémence knows all about great production values.

You can see the results below and Clémence’s other posts here. She’s definitely someone to watch.

GET MOVING

Now, back to the video star thing. I’ve been um-ing and ah-ing about moving to video, in some form or other, for yonks. I even created a very Fragroom basic YouTube channel some time ago. As we all know, there’s been a huge shift to vlogging in the last few years and, as a media creature, it’s important to add news skills to the repertoire.

“What’s holding me back? A mix of procrastination, perfectionism, self-consciousness, fear and the need to offer something different.”

I know all of this, so what’s holding me back? A mix of procrastination (it’s taken me a few weeks just to commit to this post), perfectionism, self-consciousness, fear and the need to offer something different. The same things that kept me from launching my blog, until I eventually just jumped and got over myself.

Video Star

UBER-INFLUENCER: Jeremy Fragrance. Image: jeremyfragrance.com.

So will 2020 be the year I become a true video star à la Jeremy Fragrance? Well, that’s not my aim, although I am in awe of his supreme confidence. But I do know I have to be a brave boy and just start somewhere… You will be the first to know when I’ve crossed the threshold.