Category: FRAGRANCE

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CHANEL NO 5 CENTENARY: THE JUICE ON AN ICON

Chanel No 5 Centenary

When a perfume turns 100 years old, you can bet it has a story to tell. And it doesn’t get more convoluted and juicier than Chanel No 5. While The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume by Tilar J Mazzeo (Harper Perennial) was published in 2010, it contains many well-researched insights as we celebrate the Chanel No 5 centenary.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

A cultural historian and wine writer, Mazzeo is the author of books such as The Widow Clicquot (HarperCollins) and Back Lane Wineries of Sonoma, Second Edition (Penguin Random House).

As Mazzeo states in the book’s preface, “Much of what is told and retold about its transformation into an international byword for luxury is the stuff of half-truths, confusion, collective fantasy and sheer invention. Sometimes, the truth that those legends obscure is more fantastic than any fiction.”

Starting with Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood in an orphanage, The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is a must-read for anyone wanting to know more about “le monstre” (the monster), as the perfume is known in the industry.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.
AU CONTRAIRE

I don’t want to give away too many of the secrets revealed and the myths debunked by Mazzeo, but for those who want a teaser here goes…

Chanel No 5 was not the first fragrance to make use of aldehydes (that distinction belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or). But it is certainly the most well-known, with its liberal use of these synthetics by Russian-born perfumer Ernest Beaux when he created Chanel’s debut scent.

Neither was it the first designer fragrance. Parisian couturier Paul Poiret got there first with Parfums de Rosine Nuit Persane in 1911.

The formula for Chanel No 5 wasn’t stolen from the laboratory of a company owned by her friend and rival François Coty.

Although the designer had a thing for the number five and named her debut fragrance after it, Chanel No 5 wasn’t officially released on May 5, 1921, the fifth day of the fifth month. It appeared quietly on the shelves of her boutiques but was hugely popular from the outset.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

In fact, because of the demand, in 1924, in return for their manufacturing, distribution and marketing expertise, Coco Chanel signed away the majority control (70%) of the perfume side of her business to the Wertheim brothers, Pierre and Paul, who owned the perfume company Bourjois.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
ICONIC SHAPE: The evolution of the design of the bottle over the decades. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.

The formation of Les Parfums Chanel meant she would receive 10% of the profits. With the perfume’s considerable profitability, however, she later came to regret this business decision, which helps explain the dubious legal action against her Jewish investors during the Second World War when the Nazis occupied Paris (see interview below).

Despite all the dirty dealings and numerous law cases, the contract was renegotiated in 1947, whereby in exchange for $350 000, 10% of the profits and 2% of the perfume sales worldwide, she would stop using the number five in any of her marketing.

“Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel.”

Later, in the 1950s, Pierre Wertheimer agreed to fund the reopening of her fashion house and pay all her bills (including her rent at the Ritz Hotel in Paris). But the Wertheimer family would own the rights to the fragrance and fashion businesses. That agreement continues to this day, with Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, Pierre’s grandchildren, running the luxury empire.

Although her partners missed several marketing tricks in the 20s, they showed their business acumen during the war. From their new base in the United States, after escaping from France in 1940, they sent former Guerlain president H. Gregory Thomas on a covert mission to Grasse, France, to source the raw materials needed to produce Chanel No 5. He returned with hundreds of kilos of jasmine and rose concrete.

Chanel No 5 Centenary

INTERVIEW WITH TILAR J MAZZEO

What prompted you to write the book?

I came to the book from the perspective of a wine writer, wondering about the relationship between perfume and wine: both aromatic volatiles in alcohol. What made a great perfume and was it similar to a great wine?

Did you have any preconceptions before you started your research?

The other question of the book for me was: is Chanel No 5 really a great perfume or is it great marketing? I began assuming marketing would be a larger part of the equation.

What were you most surprised to find out in your research?

How disastrous the marketing was in the beginning for this fragrance. For example, they decided to launch Chanel No 5 along with a whole series of other numbered fragrances (Chanel No 2, Chanel No 3). And the ads had all of them in the same bottles. It would have sunk any other fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
PERFUME POSE: Gabrielle Chanel in a campaign for Chanel No 5, photographed by François Kollar for Harper’s Bazaar, USA, in 1937, in her Ritz Hotel apartment. Chanel No 5 Centenary image courtesy of Chanel.
How much access did the company give you? And what was their response when the book was published?

I did have access to historical documents at Chanel and the jasmine and rose plantations in Grasse. The perfumers at Chanel were also amazingly generous with their time.

I’m not sure about the maison’s view. I think we agreed about the fragrance. In the beginning we probably saw differently Coco Chanel’s World War Two experience, but I suspect we are not really very far apart on that.

Chanel and her German boyfriend [officer Hans Günther von Dincklage] during the war both claimed they were working as double agents for the British with a man named Canaris, and the historical evidence suggests this is probably true.

“The ‘Aryanization’ lawsuit would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.”

I don’t think Chanel was a Nazi spy. She did definitely have a German boyfriend. She did engage during World War Two in an “Aryanization” lawsuit [unsuccessfully suing for ownership of the company, as it had been abandoned], which would not be her finest moment. However, there were a lot of not particularly fine moments during the German occupation of France.

With Chanel No 5 celebrating its centenary this year, there’s no doubt, more than ever, it’s more than a perfume, it’s a cultural icon. Would you be able to highlight the most important factor that contributed to that status? 

Every perfumer I’ve ever spoken with, including many of Chanel’s competitors, all say one thing: as a work of modernist art expressed in fragrance, Chanel No 5 is a masterpiece. It does something amazing as a scent by balancing its aldehydes with deep florals. There is something of the tightrope act in the fragrance.

Chanel No 5 Centenary
CHARACTER: Cartoonist Sem paid tribute to the success of Chanel No 5 in 1921.
The story of Chanel No 5 is also the story of Coco Chanel. To describe her as complex would be an understatement… 

Indeed. She starts out life as an orphan in a convent, then moves onto being a cabaret showgirl (from there the “Coco” nickname) and the mistress of a series of wealthy men, becomes a celebrated designer very quickly, launches a popular fragrance but almost immediately gives rights over to another company, and spends the next few decades suing her (Jewish) business partners and dating a German during the occupation of Paris.

Your book doesn’t gloss over the more controversial aspects of Coco Chanel’s attempts to regain control of the fragrance business especially during the Nazi occupation of France. Despite this, how has her mystique been maintained?

History is full of men who behaved badly and remained celebrated as artists and geniuses. Picasso, to take a contemporary of Chanel, was a complete cad. Chanel was both an artist and a genius in her metier and as with Picasso, one must divorce her personal character from her art. Her art, both in fashion and fragrance, is breath-taking.

Your book was published in 2010, 11 years before the centenary. What, if anything, would you add to it now?

The fragrance history in the book remains timely and current. The debate about Chanel and the Second World War has intensified since publication in 2010, and I would add to the book now a more expansive context. I am deeply critical of Chanel’s actions during the war in terms of her “Aryanization” legal actions.

However, I don’t think the facts support some of the arguments that were made after my book was published, which castigate her “horizontal collaboration.” I gave that expanded context in the book I wrote after the one on Chanel, which was about the Ritz Hotel in Paris during the occupation [The Hotel on Place Vendôme (HarperCollins)].

Your personal thoughts on Chanel No 5 as a perfume?

I am blind as a bat and cannot carry a tune, but I am blessed or cursed, depending on the circumstances, with an extremely fine nose. It is hard for anyone with that not to admire Chanel No 5 and to love scents. Chanel No 5 is like admiring or not admiring a 1953 Petrus (though with a very different aromatic profile). But some things are qualitatively brilliant. Chanel No 5 and Shalimar are my go-to classic fragrances. Once you appreciate the technical and artistic genius of those perfumes, it’s difficult not to want to spend time with them.

The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume is available to buy here.

 

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Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP Review: All Dressed Up (Perfume-Wise) & Nowhere To Go

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

There are rose perfumes that bludgeon you with their intensity and potency. And there are those that seduce you with their artistry and sophistication, such as Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

It’s one of the earlier releases (2004) from the London-based niche fragrance house’s Signature Collection. And perfectly captures the goal of founder Linda Pilkington (pictured below) “ to combine elements which define true elegance: the quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient”.

Image: ormondejayne.com.

That oriental mood is evident right from the start of this EDP created by Geza Schoen (pictured below), better known recently for Escentric Molecules. Honeyed saffron mingles with rosy pink peppercorns, while date oil brings delicate fruitiness to the composition.

Taif rose is the star of this scent show. Pilkington was enchanted when she visited the Saudi Arabia city. It’s famous for its rose farms which harvest well over 300 million flowers to produce the finest rose oil, according to the Saudi Tourism Authority. Schoen’s treatment of this rose is masterful, balancing its sweet depth, soft powderiness and tea-like qualities with utmost skill. The mood is accentuated by a trio of florals – freesia, jasmine and orange blossom – fresh and sweet at the same time.

Image: www.visitsaudi.com.

The drydown is equally memorable and maintains the sophisticated sweetness. The earthiness of Ugandan vanilla absolute meets the floralcy of broom and muskiness of amber.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was created for special occasions. But seeing that in these Covid third wave times, I don’t have any of those lined up any time soon, I’m being decadent wearing this beauty in my pyjamas as I type these words.

I’m super-keen to try the elixir version of this perfume, which brings Cambodian oud to the mix.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP is available from Galeries de Parfums.

 

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Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long Review: An Evocative Aquatic Without The Clichés

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

For obvious Covid reasons, travel-inspired perfumes continue to have a compelling appeal. There’s no shortage of vicarious options. But Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long has been particularly attractive to me in recent months.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

Ella K was founded by Sonia Constant in 2018. A senior perfumer at Givaudan, she has created several high-profile fragrances since the start of her career in 2006. Recent creations include Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle, Mugler Angel Nova, Tom Ford Ombré Leather and Narciso Rodriguez Musc Noir For Her.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long
SOUGHT AFTER: When not creating perfumes for her own brand, Sonia Constant produces fragrances for companies such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez and Tom Ford. Image: Ella K.

Her niche company is an outlet for her own creativity, beyond the briefs of demanding and perhaps limiting clients. It centres on the adventures of the character Ella K.

From the brand’s launch collection, Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long evokes the memory of sailing on a junk boat in the Unesco Heritage Site bay in north Vietnam (see below).

Image: Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. https://vietnam.travel

It’s the monsoon season, with water everywhere, so this EDP is an aquatic scent, but without the clichés of that genre.

That aquatic vibe comes through right at the start with floral notes of lotus (see below) and water lily. The perfumer makes the most of their fresh and airy wateriness. There’s more floralcy in the way of rich notes of cyclamen and magnolia, which bring on the sensual humidity. Apparently, there’s a note of rhubarb in the mix, but I don’t pick it up. Clean musk adds the finishing touch in the drydown.

Image: Jay Kastor / unsplash.com.

Pluie Sur Ha Long isn’t the first fragrance I’ve tried from Ella K. Like Poème de Sagano, Cri du Kalahari, Epupa mon Amour and Baiser de Florence, it translates its inspiration into luxuriant and expressive reality. And still leaves plenty to the imagination.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

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Roja Amber Aoud Parfum Review: Busy But Beautiful

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

No doubt about it, oud has been the biggest trend in fragrance for some time. Correction. It’s moved from a trend to staple in perfumery, with whole brands devoted to this most precious and tricky of ingredients (for example, Fragrance du Bois). More than most, British perfumer Roja Dove has proven adept at showcasing its multifaceted beauty with releases that include Roja Aoud Parfum, Roja Musk Aoud Parfum, Roja Sweetie Aoud Parfum and Roja Amber Aoud Parfum.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

The latter has been particularly popular. And for good reason. It shows Dove’s time in the Middle East (three years, according to the brand website) to familiarise himself with the intricacies of oud was time well spent.

This 2012 release has a similar structure to the other Roja Aouds I’ve tried – citrus opening + floral heart + dense drydown.

IMMERSIVE: Oud master Roja Dove.

There’s a brief barely noticeable citrusy-fresh opening, courtesy of notes of lemon, bergamot and lime. Voluptuous rose de mai then makes an appearance, honey-ish powderiness to the fore. Its fruitiness is accentuated by notes of fig and ylang-ylang.

As always with Roja fragrances, there’s a lot going on in the drydown, with 11 officially listed notes. The oud in question is rich, smooth and slightly animalic, but without the skank. It’s fleshed out with the sweetness of spicy cinnamon and leathery saffron.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is everything you want a premium oud to be: authentic, warm, cosy and extravagant. With the prominence given to the queen of florals, perhaps it would have been more accurate to call it “Rose Aoud”. But there are already umpteen variations on that theme and Dove has created an exclusive Roja Taif Aoud for Fortnum & Mason. I quibble…

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

Although a tad too sweet for me, the hype around Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is justified. At R12 300 (over $850 / £600 / €700) for 100ml, it doesn’t come cheap. But then it is competing in what I call the league of “super-ouds” (for example, Frédéric Malle The Night and Fragrance du Bois Sahraa).

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Diptyque Orphéon Review: Is It Another Classic-In-The-Making?

Diptyque Orphéon

This year sees Diptyque marking its 60th anniversary. The Paris-based niche brand which started out as a bazaar at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain has a lot to celebrate. Since its founding in 1961 by theatre director and set designer Yves Coueslant, painter Desmond Knox-Leet and interior designer Christiane Gautrot, many of its perfumes and candles have become classics. As part of the festivities, Diptyque Orphéon was released earlier this year.

CREATIVE TRIO: Diptyque co-founders Yves Coueslant, Christiane Gautrot and Desmond Knox-Leet. Image: Diptyque.

Diptyque Eau Rihla EDP has also just been released, but is exclusive to the Middle East market.

Paying homage to the company’s heritage, Diptyque Orphéon takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.

This EDP opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.

Diptyque Orphéon

With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. Especially, as I haven’t seen the inside of a drinking spot for quite some time, thanks to Covid. But perhaps I’m being too literal and vicarious in this expectation.

It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s growing on me the more I wear it.

Diptyque Orphéon

On a side note, it’s interesting to see Diptyque becoming more of a lifestyle brand as part of the celebrations. New ranges include pyjamas with prints inspired by some of their best-selling fragrances (Philosykos, Ombre, Do Son, L’Eau, Eau Rose) and decor items such as tumblers, plates and placemats (see below). All of which make sense, considering Diptyque’s artistic and bazaar heritage.

Diptyque Orphéon is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Image: Diptyque.
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Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites: Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso Di Toscana EDT + L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP + Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga EDP + Amouage Jubilation Man XXV EDP + L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup EDT

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.

While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.

“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”

This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.

Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT

This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.

An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP 

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP

Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.

Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP

Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.

I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.

Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT: 40 Years Of The Loud & Proud 80s Icon

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

I recently posted about some much-needed cheerful cheapies. I deliberately left Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT off that list. With its 40th anniversary this year, it warrants a post all of its own.

It was the launch fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that was originally founded in the 1960s and that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map . The store’s owner Fred Hayman launched Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”. Echoing the awning outside the store, the yellow-and-white box proclaimed the boldness of the scent in no uncertain terms.

From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, this Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. In a very 80s way. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants at the time due to its overpowering style. Which just adds to its allure. For me, anyway.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting.

“This Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious.”

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

This generous fragrance keeps giving till the end. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla and sandalwood notes.

Four decades and several changes in ownership later, my sources at Elizabeth Arden (which now has the licence for the brand) tell me there’s nothing special planned for the anniversary in the way of limited editions, etc.

That suits me fine, as long as Giorgio Beverly Hills is available at my local pharmacy on the budget shelves for the price of R550 or so (the equivalent of less than $40).

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

 

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Cheapies Ahoy! Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP + Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT + Revlon Charlie Gold EDP + Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT + Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP

Cheap Fragrances

Finding a good, albeit expensive, perfume is a cinch. There’s so much choice and ultimately, the only limitation is the health of your bank account. Finding good cheap fragrances is an altogether different beast.

So in these economically tough times, it’s time to sniff out some cheerful cheap fragrances. Interestingly, the industry hates to call them “cheapies”. I was once corrected by the PR for a well-known American beauty company that they call them “value-for-money” products.

Cheap Fragrances

Whatever you call them, here are some standouts. What are your favourite cheap fragrances?

Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP (Carlos Benaim)

Before your eyes roll, Elizabeth Taylor is one of the pioneers of the celeb fragrance category and her scents are good in a big and bold way.

Inspired by the legendary British actor’s eye colour, this EDP was released in 2010, a year before she moved on to the big mansion in the sky. A bouquet of florals follows the opening of juicy peach. I’m talking opulent notes of rose, jasmine and peony, with powderiness galore. Cedar stands out in the drydown.

Cheap Fragrances

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT

The Elizabeth Arden Green Tea line has been around since 1999. Worthwhile variations on the theme include Pomegranate, Mimosa and Fig.

Green Tea Pear Blossom is the most recent addition and it’s as uplifting and pretty as it sounds. Pear and pear tree blossom are evident from the start and create a breezy fruity-floral vibe that’s balanced by green tea and mate. It settles on a base of musks.

Cheap Fragrances

Revlon Charlie Gold EDP

People of a certain age might remember Revlon Charlie from the 1970s and the accompanying advertising of confident and liberated women.

The original has spawned 20+ flankers and Charlie Gold EDP, released in 1995, is one of the best (please overlook the crap cap). There’s a slight aldehydic feel at first and then it’s fruit (apricot, peach, plum) and spice (cinnamon, cloves) all the way to the musky drydown. Lots of fun!

Cheap Fragrances

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

With almost 600 releases to its name, the Spanish fast fashion retailer has a bit of a reputation as a fast fragrance retailer, too. While many of them feel churned out, this 2016 launch is probably one of their most popular and highly rated.

A big hit of tropical-ish honey and coconut features here, but there’s enough warm and cuddly tobacco to warrant it being called a tobacco scent. The sandalwood in the drydown is creamy deluxe. It all adds up to create a sweet treat with gourmand tendencies.

Cheap Fragrances

Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP

The Yardley English Blazer range reflects the British origins of the brand (it’s now owned by Indian company Wipro) and comprises gentlemanly versions such as Green, Black and Red.

There are those who think this EDP smells like Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb and they are right, up to a point, due to their shared notes of grapefruit, cinnamon and vetiver. It lacks the complexity and depth of that best-seller, but still delivers cheap thrills at a fraction of the price.

Cheap Fragrances

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Anselm Skogstad (of Der Duft) Interview: Saying So Much Through Minimalism

Anselm Skogstad

Launching a perfume company at any time takes balls. Launching a perfume company in 2020, of all years, takes balls of steel. And dollops of optimism and a strongly defined vision. All of which Anselm Skogstad of Der Duft seems to have in abundance.

Anselm Skogstad

The visual artist / photojournalist-turned-perfumer / director kindly sent me a bottle of Der Duft Bubble, one of the fragrances from the Germany-based company’s launch collection. If this EDP created by Alexandre Illan (Rammstein Kokain and Thameen Noorolain Taif) is anything to go by, the company is set to find its own space.

BUBBLE BOY: Alexandre Illan, creator of Der Duft Bubble. All images, except Der Deft Bubble, supplied.

Luxurious and uplifting, the bubbly stuff happens to be my favourite tipple. And it’s always intriguing to see how it’s translated olfactively. Unfortunately, it’s often given the girlie fizz treatment. No such issues with Bubble.

The EDP opens with a distinctive and slightly fruity take on Champagne. It already feels like a glass of the best. It’s infused with a liberal dose of cassis, its green sharpness balanced by a note of fruity rose. There’s also a hint of slightly spicy chamomile in the mix.

Alexandre Illan

A clean combo of white musk and ambrette (the naturally derived musk) meets sandalwood in the drydown. The pear-ish characteristics of the ambrette and the creaminess of the sandalwood perfectly complement the intro and give the composition complex continuity.

I asked Anselm Skogstad about the launch of his company, his approach and working with perfumers.

“I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.”

Why did you decide to launch your own fragrance company?

I envisioned a fragrance company where the unique quality of perfumes, the style and aesthetic transcend time. The collection invites people to feel inspired by the scents and names of each perfume. I purposely chose to stay away from adding any additional stories or explanations.

Anselm Skogstad

I was aware of my fascination in collaborating with perfumers. It became clear that my brand would have to include both my own creations and perfumes created by selected perfumers I admire.

I strive for Der Duft to become a representation of a carefully selected collection of perfumes of outstanding quality. The concept is very clean and minimalist, which is also reflected visually in the product design.

How long was the launch in the making? And how did the Covid situation affect IT?

I was brainstorming the idea since 2018, simply calling the brand Der Duft (German for “The Scent”). Covid certainly affected the launch, as it created uncertainty and fear worldwide. Retail had to close their doors and high-end perfumes were less of a priority to people. Understandably so!

 

What’s your background and has perfume always played a big part in your life?

My love for perfumes started when I was a child and enjoyed smelling fragrances while admiring the fancy packaging and advertising. For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. Instead, I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist (anselmskogstad.com).

“For many years this passion did not play a big role in my life. I focused on my career as a visual artist and photojournalist.”

Anselm Skogstad
FULL OF SURPRISES: Anselm Skogstad with Miguel Matos, creator of Der Duft Cinematic.

The inspiration and motivation to change my career focus also needs to be credited to a dear friend of mine, a perfume expert based in Hong Kong. I am forever thankful to have found my love for perfumes again, this immensely beautiful and powerful art form.

You’re also a perfumer and created Der Duft Monopteros and Der Duft Grasse. Where did you study perfumery?

I studied at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery. This was a humbling experience and a substantial help in working as the director of Der Duft.

“Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction. In fact, I am thrilled if they surprise me.”

Using Der Duft Bubble as an example, tell us how you approach the creation of a fragrance with your perfumers?

Each perfumer should feel free in their creation process, so I give little to no direction or guidance. In fact, I am thrilled if the perfumer surprises me. The goal is also to understand and respect the perfumers’ olfactive language and talent. Although I make the final choice which of the perfumer’s proposed creation is selected for Der Duft, the actual working process itself remains their own.

Anselm Skogstad

Finding a suitable name for each perfume is a distinctly exciting part of the creation process. This goes hand in hand while creating, perfecting and discovering the best new creation together with a perfumer.

Do you have any new releases planned for 2021?

Yes, I am excited about the new creation by Prin Lomros, called Act. Visit derduft.com for additional information and to subscribe to our newsletter.

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Africa-Inspired Fragrances: Fertile Ground For The Imagination

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

While Africa isn’t a major market for perfume consumption, it is one for the sourcing of raw materials such as vanilla (Madagascar), African orange blossom (Tunisia) and Atlas cedar (Morocco). But my first blog post of 2021 isn’t about that topic. It’s about Africa-inspired fragrances.

“The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers.”

The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers. And for good reason. In the scheme of things (and while not indulging in any colonial stereotypes), Africa is still relatively undiscovered and exotic when compared to other continents.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

With Covid-19 continuing to rage in South Africa and any travel remaining verboten, my Africa inspired fragrances are a vital outlet for my own imaginings and yearnings.

There are some glaring omissions from this Africa-inspired fragrances round-up: Au Coeur du Désert, 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle and 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain, all by Tauer, and which I’m embarrassed to admit I haven’t tried yet.

Do you have any favourite Africa-inspired fragrances?

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

ELLA K CRI DU KALAHARI EDP* (SONIA CONSTANT)

I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the Kalahari Desert and its beautifully named omuramba (the Herero word for the ancient riverbeds situated in the border area of Botswana and Namibia). So I’m happy to travel there vicariously courtesy of Ella K Cri du Kalahari. This 2019 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house founded by top perfumer Sonia Constant is inspired by evenings spent in this desert.

The EDP opens with the slight spice of green pepper and then gives way to a dense treatment of sandalwood and cedar to evoke the spectacular baobab trees in the area. Patchouli adds to the sense of earthy and woody moistness in the otherwise dry landscape.

Two other Africa-inspired fragrances from the brand are also worth sniffing out: Ella K Epupa Mon Amour EDP and Reflet Sur L’Okavango EDP.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

RALPH LAUREN SAFARI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Ralph Lauren Safari is officially for women, but is, in fact, perfectly unisex. It also happens to be a 90s classic created by the legendary Dominique Ropion (Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Mugler Alien, YSL L’Homme).

This EDP opens with an authentic marigold note and a smattering of orange in the background. The heart is all about florals and features a rich display of narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley notes. It then takes a woody and earthy turn with notes of sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli all working together in unison. The beauty of this fragrance is how is flows from start to finish to create something complex and unique.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BERDOUES MAASAÏ MARA (PHILIPPE ROMANO)

Berdoues is a fourth-generation, family-owned perfume business. Their Collection Grands Crus focuses on feel-good blends that recall destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

This mellow and warm 2017 release takes its cue from Kenya’s famous national reserve. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape in the brand’s straightforward style.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart of this EDT, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence from the Paris-based niche fragrance pioneer!

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP* (JEROME EPINETTE)

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this Jerome Epinette creation.

The tone is set from the opening with its citrus notes of lemon and neroli, and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of the vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the drydown.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

MEMO MOROCCAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo taps into it better than most, with perfumes influenced by their founders’ travel memories. The brand’s African Leather is a modern classic, but this 2018 release from the Cuirs Nomades Collection is well worth discovering, too.

Bitter green galbanum is one of the first notes to stand out. It’s deftly balanced by floral notes of orange blossom and ylang-ylang, while ginger brings market spice. The combo of dry vetiver, powdery iris and a deep leather accord make the drydown particularly memorable.

4711 ACQUA COLONIA INTENSE SUNNY SEASIDE OF ZANZIBAR (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Many of us know 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. What’s less well known perhaps is the brand’s range of intense, longer-lasting colognes that includes variations such as Floral Fields of Ireland, Wakening Woods of Scandinavia and Pure Breeze of Himalaya. Launched in 2019, Sunny Seaside of Zanzibar lives up to its island holiday inspiration with aplomb.

The opening features an appealing combo of fresh watermelon and softly spicy aniseed notes. The tropical vibe builds up with a melange of coconut, frangipani, musk and vanilla notes, eventually settling on a woody base of vetiver and cedar. It’s sunny escapist stuff at its best.

*These Africa-inspired fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.