Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using the term “modern classic”. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.
I’ve found myself returning to it many times this year. There’s something undeniably comforting and timeless about wearing this scent. During the worst of lockdown earlier this year when venturing beyond the confines of the flat was fraught with all sorts of imagined risks and fears, my beloved TDH brought the beauty of nature directly to me.
“It has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents.”
Launched in 2006 (and also available in highly recommended Parfum and Eau Intense Vetiver EDP versions), it has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents. “Feeling the earth, lying on the ground, gazing at the sky,” is how the legendary perfumer described it, according to the French luxury brand’s website.
Its appeal is evident from the get-go. Notes of slightly sweet orange and tart grapefruit provide a perfect balance of sunny and uplifting citrus. While this citrus is unusually present throughout, a gentle twist of black pepper brings a spicy and earthy component to the composition.
The drydown is wonderfully woody, with a combo of cedar, patchouli and vetiver in play. The latter deserves a special mention. While characteristically earthy, its freshness is also what makes TDH so memorable.
Interestingly, according to Women’s Wear Daily, Ellena decided not to use musk notes when creating it. “Musk creates a mask on the skin,” he said, “So each time [it is worn], the fragrance is unique.”
Officially a men’s fragrance, Terre d’Hermès is absolutely unisex and is accompanied by a range of grooming products, including a hair and body shower gel, shaving foam, perfumed soap and after-shave lotion.
Terre d’Hermès EDT is available from Woolworths.. R1 485 for 50ml and R1 980 for 100ml.
Someone at Chanel deserves a raise! I’m not the only one who enjoys wearing a fragrance when it’s bedtime. Preferably something soft and comforting. And now the French luxury company has come up with a scent specifically for this essential nocturnal rejuvenation: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée.
“It’s relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor.”
Coco Mademoiselle made its debut in 2001 and has gone onto become a best-seller. If the original was stimulating, extroverted and big on the patchouli, then Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor. This is Chanel, after all.
It was created by Olivier Polge, who’s been increasingly making his mark as in-house perfumer since 2015 with releases such as Boy Chanel, Gabrielle and the Les Eaux de Chanel range.
HOUSE PERFUMER: Olivier Polge is increasingly making his mark at Chanel. Image: Chanel.
WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE?
It opens with a touch of mandarin orange. This note can be invigorating, but here it’s suitably soothing. Jasmine and rose sounds like a heady and intoxicating combination, but in Polge’s skilful hands, this floral accord is subdued yet sensual at the same time. The signature patchouli is still there, but very much in the background. Dollops of clean white musk complete the composition.
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is a straightforward scent, but that doesn’t take away from its elegance and suitability as a bedtime companion. It has a hazy, dreamy feel, in which none of the elements feels overly defined.
While it was conceptualised before our current Covid situation, its launch is perfectly timed. Who couldn’t do with some sleep-enhancing reassurance in 2020 à la Chanel? Judging from all the IG posts I’m already seeing on this release, Chanel has a hit on its hands. Will other brands start releasing night versions of their scents too?
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée, R2 315 for 100ml. For more information, read here.
Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.
Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP
Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.
A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.
According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.
Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.
A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.
Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.
“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”
Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).
It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.
I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.
Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.
Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.
Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.
There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.
“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”
As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.
Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.
The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).
Images: Supplied.
For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.
Artistic Collaborator: Ruh Zadeh. Image: Supplied.
The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.
However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.
5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF
How do you and your husband work together?
I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!
How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?
I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.
PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.
Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?
From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.
Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?
Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…
The company turns 25 next year.How you will celebrate that achievement?
With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.
M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website.
For better and for worse, Clive Christian has become synonymous with the phrase “the most expensive perfume in the world” (see the pic below). Following its recent arrival in South Africa, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the British luxury brand. With all the hype surrounding this company, I was almost determined not to like this release from 2018. Just to be contrary. Sometimes I can be like that.
Pic: clivechristian.com.
However, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is an exquisite fragrance from top to bottom. Slightly bitter petitgrain and bergamot announce themselves in the opening. They are wrapped in a finely fresh take on cypress and a perfectly balanced spicy trio of clove, nutmeg and ginger. Amber, so over-used in recent male fragrances, is elevated to the most sophisticated resinous powderiness, with support from cedar and oakwood.
It’s a long time since I’ve come across such a seamless scent. I can believe the blurb on the website about it being a 25% pure perfume concentration that’s made from the finest ingredients.
Apparently, the brand is flying off the shelves at its South African retailer. Even though prices range from R2 800 for refill vials to R14 800 for Clive Christian Jump Up And Kiss Me Hedonistic. (At the time of writing this post, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress costs R9 900 / £395 / $550 for 50ml.)
DISTURBIA
And this is where this post ventures into troubled territory. In a country with one of the highest levels of inequality in the world, an unemployment rate of 30%+, and an increasingly bleak national mood exacerbated by Covid-19, I’m disturbed that such amounts can be spent so freely on a fragrance. I type these words, and I feel judgemental and naïve and hypocritical at the same time. After all, haven’t I spent small fortunes on whatever gives me pleasure? So I will leave things there. For now.
Clive Christian fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.
“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”
However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).
IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.
So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?
It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.
Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.
And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.
I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.
Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.
I don’t normally make predictions. But having worn Montblanc Signature for the last month or so, the German luxury goods company has a big hit on its hands with this new EDP.
I won’t waste much time on the inspiration for Montblanc Signature – “the woman who is the author of her own life”. It doesn’t really tell us anything about the fragrance.
It was created by a duo of top perfumers. Guillaume Flavigny is known for creations such as Elizabeth Arden White Tea, Balmain Ambre Gris and Comme des Garcons Black. Nathalie Gracia-Cetto has produced Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky, Rochas Moustache and Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, among others. Both know how to create commercially successful scents, and it shows in Montblanc Signature.
SO WHAT DOES MONTBLANC SIGNATURE SMELL LIKE?
It opens with the sweet and juicy citrus hues of clementine, followed by a bouquet of peony, ylang-ylang and magnolia notes. The latter’s prominence builds on the intro’s fresh and luxurious vibe. It doesn’t take long for the fragrance’s main element – white musk – to come through. Luxurious yet clean, it works in tandem with a big dose of vanilla and benzoin.
Montblanc Signature is a fairly straightforward composition – one in which you can actually smell the seven listed notes. It’s effective all the same. The brand is known for its crowd-pleasers and this new pillar will undoubtedly become a favourite. Slightly reminiscent of another brand’s musk perfumes, but with its own spin on the theme, hallelujah, it doesn’t shout generic from the get-go.
It was conceptualised and executed before our current Covid-19 world, but interestingly captures what perfumer Frank Voelkl said in a recent interview on this blog about the biggest fragrance trends this decade: “Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean.”
Montblanc Signature EDP, R880 for 30ml, R1 055 for 50ml and R1 315 for 90ml, is available at Dis-Chem.
Not for nothing is the rose known as the queen of flowers and, I can add, a mainstay of perfumery. This year alone, big releases include Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose EDP, Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP and Dior Miss Dior Rose N’Roses EDT. I haven’t tried any of these yet due to the current coronavirus situation, hence their possible exclusion from this best roses fragrances list.
Rose fragrances are always popular and part of their appeal is due to the multitude of ways in which they can be interpreted. From fresh and dewy to rich and decadent, there’s one for you. I’ve included a mix of styles, modern classics and newbies in this best roses round-up to give you a sense of the variety on offer.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
I would love to hear about your best rose fragrances.
FREDERIC MALLE PORTRAIT OF A LADY EDP* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)
No best rose fragrances list would be complete without the inclusion of this modern masterpiece that’s affectionately known by its fans as POAL. An extraordinary perfume demands a different type of review, so here are five facts:
It’s named after the Henry James novel, which was published in 1891.
Its creator, Dominique Ropion, who is highly regarded for scents such as Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Givenchy Amarige, Lancôme La Vie est Belle and Mugler Alien, received The Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement, Perfumer Award in 2019.
Released in 2010, it has become one of the most revered niche fragrances of the last decade.
According to the brand’s website, each 100ml bottle contains no less than 400 Turkish roses.
That said, this is a seamless fragrance that whispers its supreme beauty from the opening rose note. Tinges of raspberry and black currant bring delicate fruity piquancy to the blend, while cloves add spicy warmth. An ultra-refined patchouli note takes the lead in the drydown and is given just the right amount of sensual mystery with swirls of smoky frankincense and creamy sandalwood.
While you are in Frédéric Mallemode, make sure to sniff out the other superb rose EDPs from the Paris-based niche house, including Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger, Une Rose by Edouard Fléchier and Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena.
UNUM ROSA NIGRA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (FILIPPO SORCINELLI)
Filippo Sorcinelli has to be one of the most interesting perfumers working today. The Italian is the consummate slashie. Artist. Musician. Photographer. Storyteller. Designer. Creator of vestments for the Catholic Church, including for Pope Francis’s first mass. All of these talents are reflected in his conceptual perfumes. His range, Unum, was launched in 2014.
Rosa Nigra is an utterly captivating, enveloping and complex rose fragrance. Actually, it’s more of an experience, which is inspired by French cathedrals and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Except it doesn’t contain a rose note. He creates the effect through an olfactory illusion. Sorcinelli achieves this by playing with a variety of notes, especially freesia and peach, and fleshes it out with absinthe, sandalwood, cashmere wood, amber, vanilla and musk.
Every detail, from the choice of notes to the design of the bottle, has symbolic significance. And you don’t have to be a Catholic, religious or spiritual to “get” it.
CHLOE EDP* (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE & MICHEL ALMAIRAC)
Launched in 2008, Chloé EDP proved to be a huge hit for the French fashion label. And for very good reason. It’s a beautifully fresh floral fragrance that showcases rose.
That freshness is evident right from the opening notes of freesia, peony and lychee. When the rose comes through, it’s dewy, perfectly pretty and supported by lily-of-the-valley and magnolia notes. Featuring notes of amber and cedar, the drydown is warm and woody.
Yes, it’s a popular fragrance. But don’t let that put you off sniffing out this modern classic that can give much pricier niche options a run for their money.
DIPTYQUE EAU CAPITALE EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)
The Paris-based niche fragrance brand pays tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity with this 2019 release.
The intro belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose from Turkey and Bulgaria. This is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background.
For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy characteristics of Indonesian heart of vetiver and Haitian vetiver.
ACQUA DI PARMA ROSA NOBILE EDP*
Acqua di Parma’s Le Nobili Collection has a floral focus and includes peony and magnolia versions. Rosa Nobile is an absolute beauty.
This EDP centres on Centifolia rose buds. According to the Italian niche brand, these are hand-picked from an organic plantation in Piedmont. They give the scent a fresh, leafy facet that’s perfectly complemented by notes of Sicilian mandarin, pepper, peony, cedarwood and musk. There’s also a hint of ambergris in the drydown, which could be why this perfume is usually on the pricey side.
I’d love to congratulate the creator of this 2014 release on a job well done, but Acqua di Parma frequently doesn’t disclose its perfumers.
BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP*
There are many notable fragrances in the Swedish niche brand’s line-up, including Pulp, Super Cedar, Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique. But the lesser-known and charmingly named Rose of No Man’s Land, inspired by the nickname given by soldiers to the life-saving nurses during World War I, is highly recommended if you’re looking for a gentle intro to rose fragrances.
This 2015 release opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by subtle pink peppercorn. The centrepiece is softly-enveloping Turkish rose absolute, nicely finished off with notes of amber and papyrus.
It’s a very warm, agreeable and accessible fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN L’EAU A LA ROSE EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)
Launched in 2014, Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP is a truly gorgeous rose fragrance. This 2019 release is a good alternative if you’re looking for a softer, but equally alluring take on the theme.
It opens with an airy lychee accord, without becoming a typically sweet fruity floral. Centifolia rose absolute and Damascena rose oil give this EDT its floral flair, while peony keeps it on the fresh side of things.
Settling on a base of musks, it’s luxurious and sensual in a quiet way. Perfect for spring and summer – and even before bedtime.
DS & DURGA ROSE ATLANTIC EDP* (DAVID SETH MOLTZ)
Trust self-taught perfumer David Seth Moltz of NYC-based niche fragrance house DS & Durga to do something completely different with a rose perfume.
You’ll know this is not the usual rose scent right from the opening of this 2016 release, featuring bitter-ish notes of bergamot and lemon oil, with rose petals slightly softening the effect. A fine rose accord comes through in the heart of the fragrance, with linden blossom in support. But this is a rose drenched in salt water. Lots of it. As if you’re aboard the ship Salt Spray Rose. What a clever boy!
A dose of white moss completes the mood.
LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP* (DAPHNE BUGEY)
Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex fragrance, the NYC-based niche fragrance house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.
This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.
It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded.
Lancôme’s first new perfume since the decade-defining La Vie est Belle has received much love and hate since its release in 2019. Negative reviews have declared it “boring” and “predictable”. I say try it for yourself. Well composed and a great example of a clean rose scent, it earns its place on this best rose fragrances list.
A delicately sweet note of pear opens the fragrance. Two essences (an absolute and rose water) have been used to make rose the star of the show. They give it a fresh, pure and green quality. Jasmine is in the background.
White musks feature in the drydown and maintain the sense of purity.
*These best rose fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.
There aren’t that many fragrance companies that can celebrate 150 years in the biz. But then Penhaligon’s isn’t just any brand. It has come to represent the best of British heritage since it was founded in 1870 by William Penhaligon. As you can imagine, I had a really hard time narrowing this list down to just 10 best Penhaligon’s fragrances. But I hope that it will give you a good idea of the top-notch quality and creativity on offer.
HERITAGE: William Penhaligon founded his company in 1870. Image: Penhaligon’s.
What started out as a barbershop has evolved into a Puig-owned company that niftily balances tradition and modernity, with three royal warrants along the way.
The company’s debut fragrance, the woody-floral Hammam Bouquet, was launched in 1872 and remains a best-seller to this day.
You will notice that many of the fragrances on this list are recent releases. Proof that Penhaligon’s is not just trading on its illustrious heritage.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
Do you have any best Penhaligon’s fragrances?
Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet EDT
I begin my best Penhaligon’s fragrances list with this absolute classic. Originally launched in 1902, it was created for the Duke of Marlborough, according to the brand’s website, and has lost none of its charm over the decades.
Interestingly, on a technical level, it has no heart notes. But it’s the super-refined opening of lemon, lime and lavender notes that keeps me coming back for more. That, and the drydown of pine, musk and black pepper notes.
It’s officially a male fragrance. But you know better than to be limited by such things, especially in spring and summer when it’s the ideal tonic for the heat.
Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (Christian Provenzano)
There’s no shortage of quality oud fragrances on the market, but it’s this best-seller that always gets my attention.
Inspired by the Turkish town of Halfeti, this 2015 release has a very brief fresh opening, courtesy of grapefruit, green and artemisia notes. It then moves rapidly into more heady territory when the notes of cumin, nutmeg, rose and saffron come into play. Oud is the centrepiece of the fragrance and is very ably assisted by notes of leather, amber, vanilla, tonka and sandalwood.
This EDP is rich, warm and intense in all the right ways.
Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (OLIVIER CRESP)
Launched in 2011, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling is inspired by the quality of London dry gin.
Juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive style, open this unisex EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern boozy classic than its gin intro. A cocktail of citrus (orange), spices (black pepper and cardamom), herbs (angelica) and a hint of sugar all complement each other.
It’s more of a skin scent, so if you only go for power performers, this one might not be for you. But you will be missing out on a fragrance that develops beautifully on the skin.
PENHALIGON’S THE UNCOMPROMISING SOHAN
A humorous take on the idea of the fragrance family, the Penhaligon’s Portraits collection was launched in 2016. It includes an assortment of EDPs named after delightful characters, including Clandestine Clara, Heartless Helen and The Bewitching Yasmine.
I love this 2017 release for its big, bold and powdery rose opening, with spicy pink pepper in the background. I don’t pick up much of the listed vetiver, but all is forgiven when the dynamic between the rose and Laotian oud (one of the best varieties) is so gorgeous. Sandalwood adds to the delicious oriental mood.
It’s on the pricey side, but the exquisite packaging is part of the deal.
PENHALIGON’S ELISABETHAN ROSE EDP
Inspired by the Tudor rose and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, this 2018 release is one of the most distinctive rose fragrances I’ve smelled in a long time.
Its unusual character is evident right from the nutty opening notes of hazelnut leaf and almond oil. Cinnamon adds to the warmth. The queen of florals dominates the heart of the scent, in particular rose centifolia oil and rose absolute. Their fruity potency is accentuated by red lily.
Eventually settling on a base of woody, musk and vetiver notes, it’s powerful stuff, so one or two sprays will more than do.
Penhaligon’s Iris Prima EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)
Looking for a super-elegant iris fragrance created by one of the world’s top perfumers? Then this 2013 release is for you.
It begins in fresh ’n spicy mode with notes of bergamot and pink pepper, and then transitions to the star of the show. This iris is full of powderiness and is partnered with a dose of jasmine, which has a slight animalic quality.
That animalic vibe is further developed in the drydown where an oh-so-smooth leather note predominates. Its creaminess is enhanced by woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver.
PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRE EDP
Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender classic. But the Concentré version gets my vote, as it offers greater depth and longevity.
It opens with freshly elegant notes of bergamot and lavender, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness. A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal.
It’s too good to be monopolised by men only.
PENHALIGON’S LOTHAIR EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)
Wow! That’s my response every time I wear this multi-faceted 2014 release. I’m sure you will feel the same way when you sniff it out.
It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by all the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19th century. And boy, does this deliver on the unusual front!
Aromatic juniper berries set the tone in the opening, but there are also accents of grapefruit, cardamom, red berries and fig leaf to tease the imagination. Notes of fig milk, black tea and lavender stand out in the heart of the EDT. The olfactory pleasure keeps on coming in the drydown that features a perfect union of vanilla, ambergris and woody notes.
PENHALIGON’S AS SAWIRA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)
This 2015 release is another treasure from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection. Taking its inspiration from the abundance of opulent goods to be found in a souk (Arabian bazaar), it’s a beautifully executed woody EDP.
Opening notes of saffron, artemisia and absinthe create a rich and intoxicating ambience. The intensity progresses to the heart of the fragrance, featuring a melange of floral and spice notes, in particular rose, carnation, cardamom and cloves.
There’s a lot going on in the complex drydown, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of oud, myrrh, sandalwood and amber to the overall sensuality.
PENHALIGON’S ARTEMISIA EDP
After all that full-on opulence, I complete my round-up of the best Penhaligon’s fragrances with the understated luxury of this 2002 release.
A softly sweet note of nectarine sets the tone, with a touch of greenery in the background. Violet infuses the heart of the fragrance with a delectable powderiness, while notes of jasmine tea and lily-of-the-valley provide floral and green nuances respectively.
An almost caramel-y vanilla (without being gourmand-ish) is complemented by a large dose of seductive musk and creamy sandalwood in the drydown.
All of the fragrances on this best Penhaligon’s fragrances list are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Mention some of the biggest fragrances of the last decade and chances are that Anne Flipo was behind them. The French perfumer is highly respected in the industry and by her many fans for her accomplished and distinctive work across the niche and designer fragrance categories.
Some of her standout creations and co-creations during her career include:
L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons EDT (1999)
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia EDP (2010)
Lancôme La Vie est Belle EDP (2012)
Paco Rabanne Invictus EDT (2013)
Chloé Love Story EDP (2014)
Jimmy Choo Illicit EDP (2015)
Paco Rabanne Olympéa EDP (2015)
Jo Malone Herb Garden Collection (2016)
Givenchy L’Interdit EDP (2018)
Anne Flipo has also produced several successful fragrances for YSL, including L’Homme EDT (2006) and Manifesto EDP (2012). So it’s no surprise that the luxury French fashion brand sought her expertise to create their new fragrance, YSL Libre, which was released in 2019. See my review of it at the end of this interview.
She originally wanted to study flavours, but changed direction after falling under the spell of perfumery. Her work has been recognised through several awards, including the Cosmetique Magazine Perfumer of the Year award in 2014, Cosmetic Executive Women France Achiever Award for Creation in 2016 and Fragrance Foundation Awards for Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana Cologne (2018), among others.
In this email interview, Anne Flipo talks to me about her career, the creation of YSL Libre and the joys of orange blossom.
Where and when were you born?
I was born in 1963 in Laon in the north of France.
How is the coronavirus affecting you and your work?
Three years ago I organised an office in my home in the north of France, so working from home is nothing new for me.
What fragrance are you wearing today?
Today I’m working, so for better evaluation of the fragrance I am working on, I prefer not be perfumed.
When did you know that you wanted to become a perfumer?
I have always been strongly attracted to scents and olfactive materials, especially flowers. Later, when I was a student, I was a trainee in a fragrance house. It was obvious to me that I belonged in this world. I enjoyed discovering essential oils and trying to associate them so much, I thought being a perfumer would suit me perfectly.
“Someone told me that being a woman would make my project ‘uneasy’. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day.”
Besides, at that time, someone told me that being a woman would make my project “uneasy”. This strengthened me in my conviction I would become a perfumer one day. I am quite obstinate in a way.
You studied at ISIPCA in Versailles. What was the most valuable thing you learned while studying there?
I had a lot of time to learn about raw materials, smelling and evaluating.
What didn’t they teach you while studying that you had to learn for yourself through experience?
Everything! I really began my training when I worked with my mentors such as Michel Almairac [the creator of fragrances such as Christian Dior Fahrenheit EDT, Gucci Rush EDP and Le Labo Ambrette 9 EDP].
How would you describe your fragrance style?
Difficult question. I’d say I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind. Orange blossom takes a huge part in my signature too. It is the ingredient I would never be fed up with. I could create a thousand perfumes around it, without it ever being redundant.
“I have a very intuitive style, so I compose my formulas around a strong idea I have in mind.”
What was the brief for YSL Libre?
The initial brief was to revisit the [often masculine] fougère for women.
How did you feel when it was announced on the same day in 2019 that IFF [the company she has worked for since 2004] were recognising you as a master perfumer and that your Libre proposal had been accepted?
I felt overwhelmed with emotion. It was a double recognition of my work and my career as a whole.
YSL Libre was a collaborative project with Carlos Benaïm. How did this collaboration work? Did you meet while working on this project?
I came up with the original idea and asked Carlos to step in. We worked separately and at each step we chose the best version as a new starting point while keeping the vision.
I fell in love with Carlos’s orange blossom absolute, because it brought opulence while maintaining its freshness.
During the seven years of development, Carlos and I were constantly in touch. We met several times during these years and each brought our own arrangements to the formula. We smelled them together in order to choose the best of our “mod” (in perfumers’ language, it’s an olfactory trial). Libre was a true four-handed creation between Paris and NYC. The fruit of a beautiful collaboration on both sides of the Atlantic.
PERFECTIONIST: Anne Flipo created YSL Libre EDP in a very close collaboration with Carlos Benaïm.
Apart from its seven years of development, YSL Libre apparently took more than 1 570 tries. Why did it take so long for it to eventually to come to fruition?
Fragrance creation is generally a long-term endeavour – a long and fascinating journey. Indeed, Libre took us more than 1750 trials, maybe because both Carlos and I are perfectionists. We worked hand in hand from each side of the Atlantic to achieve the perfect balance for the formula.
ALL ABOUT YVES: YSL Libre is inspired by the gender-bending spirit of legendary French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Image: YSL.
The fragrance has intriguing masculine and feminine aspects. How did you achieve that?
Libre is a freestyle take on the fougère to reveal its original feminine facet. We revisited this masculine structure by insisting on details that could turn it into a very feminine scent, just like Yves Saint Laurent re-tailored the tuxedo for women.
Lavender from France embodies the spirit of the fougère structure. We decided to blend it with orange flower from Morocco to obtain a gender-bending heart playing with both masculine and feminine facets.
SUITABLE INSPIRATION: Helmut Newton’s iconic image of YSL Le Smoking tuxedo for French Vogue in 1975. Image: YSL.
Looking back at your impressive body of work, do you have a particular favourite?
No, because all of my creations are unique. I treasure all of them, as I created them with passion.
What other projects have you just completed?
I completed YSL L’Homme Le Parfum this year and the other projects are confidential for now.
FRAGROOM YSL LIBRE EDP REVIEW
When two top perfumers collaborate on a project, success is not necessarily guaranteed. But then Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm are no ordinary “noses”. Both come with major credentials and their experience is displayed to great effect in YSL Libre.
The EDP opens with the distinctive character of fresh lavender. A special variety grown in Provence, diva lavender, was used by the perfumers. It’s warm, slightly sweet and unmistakably floral, instead of the clean and cool customer many of us may be used to. It’s strengthened with the addition of lavandin heart. So there’s no getting away from the lavender profile of this scent. There’s a bit of fresh citrusy action too, courtesy of notes of mandarin orange and neroli.
The fresh aspect is further developed when the orange blossom comes through. And boy, does it shine in a rich and most sensual way! Another white floral, jasmine sambac, is present in the mix, but it knows its supportive place in the scheme of things.
Image: YSL.
The drydown is dominated by a special extract of vanilla from Madagascar, thankfully not the sickly sweet kind. This deep one has quality written all over it. It works particularly well together with the musk and amber.
Kudos to the creators for this fragrance with a twist that doesn’t smell like everything else on the market. While it’s clearly intended to be a best-seller, not everyone will like its play on the masculine and the feminine. Expect to see several flankers over this decade.
YSL Libre EDP, R1 060 for 30ml, R1 520 for 50ml and R2 050 for 90ml. For more info, read here.
