FRAGRANCE REVIEWS Archives - Page 7 of 15

December 18, 2020

Aquatic Fragrances Three Ways: Bvlgari Aqua Pour Homme + Heeley Sel Marin + Memo Ocean Leather

For Covid-19 second-wave reasons, I shan’t be seeing the sea this time of year, as I’d hoped to do. But that won’t stop me from bringing the sea home when I have these three aquatic fragrances at my disposal.

Now, I have a conflicted relationship with the ocean. I find being near it calming and relaxing, especially the whooshing sound and salty breeze-laden smell. But I don’t necessarily enjoy being in it. Silly, I know…

BVLGARI AQUA POUR HOMME EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER-BELLETRUD)

Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, especially on the designer side, but many haven’t dated well. This popular Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (currently Louis Vuitton’s in-house perfumer) creation from 2005 is not one of those has-beens.

“Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, but many haven’t dated well.”

It opens in fresh citrus mode with notes of sweet mandarin orange and green petitgrain. It’s an uplifting combo. The seaweed note is subtly salty, its aromatic profile accentuated by lavender. Woody notes, specifically Virginia cedar and patchouli, continue the softness in the drydown. The amber is kept to a thankful minimum.

It’s a sophisticated, slightly restrained take on the theme. Great bottle too – the blue and green spherical shape captures its inspiration oh so cleverly.

**HEELEY SEL MARIN EDP* (JAMES HEELEY)**

Wow! This 2008 release is a masterstroke. But that should come as no surprise. It’s a creation from the Yorkshire-born / Paris-based perfumer who’s responsible for beauties such as Heeley Cardinal (2006) and Heeley L’Amandière (2011). His skills are displayed to maximum effect in Sel Marin (French for “sea salt”).

The intro is sharp, with citrus notes of bergamot and lemon conjuring a fresh sea breeze. It doesn’t take long for the main attraction to come into focus: a wondrous splash of moss, algae and, in particular, sea salt notes. Many aquatic fragrances are heavy-handed on the sea salt. This one gets it exactly right. The drydown is all about driftwoods, with fresh cedar and vetiver supported by clean musk and a hint of leathery birch.

Although inspired by sunny days at the beach, I get a far moodier and tempestuous feel. Either way, it’s as realistic as it gets.

MEMO OCEAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo does some of the best leather fragrances in the biz for their Cuir Nomades Collection. From Irish to African, there’s always an interesting interpretation.

As the beautifully designed bottle will tell you, the latest 2020 release, Memo Ocean Leather, takes its inspiration from the sperm whale. But just to clarify matters, it’s not an ambergris fragrance.

There’s a burst of mandarin orange at first. It’s contrasted with the fresh aromatics of basil and the powder of violet. The aromatics continue in the form of clary sage absolute, but it’s the elemi that really stands out, with its terpenic qualities. The drydown features a leather accord that’s given earthy depth with notes of nutmeg and vetiver.

Of the three aquatic fragrances featured here, it’s the least literal interpretation, but intriguing nevertheless.

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.

December 11, 2020

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum Review

We all knew Francis Kurkdjian was a highly accomplished perfumer before he launched his own eponymously named niche fragrance house in 2009. And then from 2012, he upped his credentials even more, as the king of oud, with a succession of top-quality releases. These include Oud EDP (2012), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015) and Oud Silk Mood EDP (2018). I’ve recently fallen under the spell of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum.

I got the opportunity to interview the Paris-based perfumer over a year ago. I asked him about working with oud and he said: “It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”

“It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”

While I wouldn’t describe Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum as particularly animalic, boy is it special!

Infused with slightly peppery and resinous warmth, elemi from the Philippines opens this 2018 release. There’s then the waft of fine and luxurious musk. Interesting to note that Kurkdjian uses Ambrettolide, the Givaudan-produced vegetal musk renowned for its smoothness and floral undertones. It mingles with a soft take on cedar and creamy, but (thankfully) sugar-free vanilla.

Oud is one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, and the Laotian variety is especially prized for its depth and variations. Every time I smell it in this extrait de parfum, I get something different. From leathery and woody to fruity to powdery. It’s deftly complemented by Indonesian patchouli, with its earthy and woody nuances.

From the listed ingredients on the brand’s website, there’s no doubt the best have been used to produce one of the most sophisticated oud perfumes around. It’s impeccably smooth, yet full of sensual depth and character.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

December 5, 2020

Kenzo Jungle Review: A Most Unusual Creature

I didn’t officially pay tribute to Kenzo Takada when he died from Covid-19 in October 2020. So this review of Kenzo Jungle is also my belated celebration of the Japanese designer’s vibrant global aesthetic and his pioneering contribution to fashion. He moved to Paris in 1964 and lived there until his death at the age of 81, according to The Guardian.

Even though Kenzo Jungle was launched in 1996, three years after LVMH acquired his company (he stayed on as head designer until 1999), it has his adventurous spirit throughout. As with other fragrances from the brand such as Kenzo Pour Homme (1991), L’Eau Par Kenzo Pour Femme (1996) and Kenzo Flower (2 000).

Apparently named after his first boutique in the French capital, Jungle Jap (which opened in 1970), it was created by Dominique Ropion.

WHAT MAKES KENZO JUNGLE SO SPECIAL

The opening is big on the spice, especially cloves and cumin. While neither of these notes is known for being shy, they also don’t go on the rampage through the proverbial perfume Jungle. A smidgen of mandarin orange brings sunny freshness to the proceedings.

Kenzo Jungle is at its boldest and most unusual in what follows. Here, the spice of cardamom and a particularly distinctive take on liquorice meet the heady florals of banana-ish ylang-ylang and gardenia. Juicy mango adds to the tropical vibe. Be warned: this liquorice is divisive stuff!

Featuring notes of patchouli and vanilla, the drydown is equally captivating. They maintain the appealing sweetness, without venturing into gourmand territory (although the Kenzo website claims otherwise).

Almost 25 years after its launch, Kenzo Jungle has lost none of its exotic energy. It’s the kind of fragrance that shows what’s possible when designer brands take a much-needed (and rare) risk.

It’s reassuring that it’s still in production (ditto the male version, although the plug was pulled on Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre, which I haven’t tried). Currently on sale at my local pharmacy for the ridiculous price of R1 250 for 100ml (approximately US$80 / £60 / €68), I’m hoping perfume-lovers will snap up this creature while they can.

November 7, 2020

Terre d’Hermès EDT Review: A Veritable Modern Classic

Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using the term “modern classic”. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.

I’ve found myself returning to it many times this year. There’s something undeniably comforting and timeless about wearing this scent. During the worst of lockdown earlier this year when venturing beyond the confines of the flat was fraught with all sorts of imagined risks and fears, my beloved TDH brought the beauty of nature directly to me.

“It has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents.”

Launched in 2006 (and also available in highly recommended Parfum and Eau Intense Vetiver EDP versions), it has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents. “Feeling the earth, lying on the ground, gazing at the sky,” is how the legendary perfumer described it, according to the French luxury brand’s website.

Its appeal is evident from the get-go. Notes of slightly sweet orange and tart grapefruit provide a perfect balance of sunny and uplifting citrus. While this citrus is unusually present throughout, a gentle twist of black pepper brings a spicy and earthy component to the composition.

The drydown is wonderfully woody, with a combo of cedar, patchouli and vetiver in play. The latter deserves a special mention. While characteristically earthy, its freshness is also what makes TDH so memorable.

Interestingly, according to Women’s Wear Daily, Ellena decided not to use musk notes when creating it. “Musk creates a mask on the skin,” he said, “So each time [it is worn], the fragrance is unique.”

Officially a men’s fragrance, Terre d’Hermès is absolutely unisex and is accompanied by a range of grooming products, including a hair and body shower gel, shaving foam, perfumed soap and after-shave lotion.

Terre d’Hermès EDT is available from Woolworths.. R1 485 for 50ml and R1 980 for 100ml.

October 19, 2020

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée Review: It’s All A Bit Of A (Beautiful) Blur

Someone at Chanel deserves a raise! I’m not the only one who enjoys wearing a fragrance when it’s bedtime. Preferably something soft and comforting. And now the French luxury company has come up with a scent specifically for this essential nocturnal rejuvenation: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée.

“It’s relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor.”

Coco Mademoiselle made its debut in 2001 and has gone onto become a best-seller. If the original was stimulating, extroverted and big on the patchouli, then Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor. This is Chanel, after all.

It was created by Olivier Polge, who’s been increasingly making his mark as in-house perfumer since 2015 with releases such as Boy Chanel, Gabrielle and the Les Eaux de Chanel range.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée — HOUSE PERFUMER: Olivier Polge is increasingly making his mark at Chanel. Image: Chanel.

WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE?

It opens with a touch of mandarin orange. This note can be invigorating, but here it’s suitably soothing. Jasmine and rose sounds like a heady and intoxicating combination, but in Polge’s skilful hands, this floral accord is subdued yet sensual at the same time. The signature patchouli is still there, but very much in the background. Dollops of clean white musk complete the composition.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is a straightforward scent, but that doesn’t take away from its elegance and suitability as a bedtime companion. It has a hazy, dreamy feel, in which none of the elements feels overly defined.

While it was conceptualised before our current Covid situation, its launch is perfectly timed. Who couldn’t do with some sleep-enhancing reassurance in 2020 à la Chanel? Judging from all the IG posts I’m already seeing on this release, Chanel has a hit on its hands. Will other brands start releasing night versions of their scents too?

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée, R2 315 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

September 8, 2020

3 Classic Rose Fragrances: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP + Amouage Lyric Man EDP + Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.

Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP

Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20^th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.

A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.

According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.

Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.

A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.

Amouage Lyric Man EDP

Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.

“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”

Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).

It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.

I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.

Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.

Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.

Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.

There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.

“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”

As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.

Available on the brand’s website.

August 29, 2020

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 Review

Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.

The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).

For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.

The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.

However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.

5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF

How do you and your husband work together?

I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!

How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?

I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.

PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.

**Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?**

From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.

Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?

Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…

The company turns 25 next year. How you will celebrate that achievement?

With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website.

August 15, 2020

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress Review: The Smell Of A $500+ Perfume

For better and for worse, Clive Christian has become synonymous with the phrase “the most expensive perfume in the world” (see the pic below). Following its recent arrival in South Africa, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the British luxury brand. With all the hype surrounding this company, I was almost determined not to like this release from 2018. Just to be contrary. Sometimes I can be like that.

However, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is an exquisite fragrance from top to bottom. Slightly bitter petitgrain and bergamot announce themselves in the opening. They are wrapped in a finely fresh take on cypress and a perfectly balanced spicy trio of clove, nutmeg and ginger. Amber, so over-used in recent male fragrances, is elevated to the most sophisticated resinous powderiness, with support from cedar and oakwood.

It’s a long time since I’ve come across such a seamless scent. I can believe the blurb on the website about it being a 25% pure perfume concentration that’s made from the finest ingredients.

Apparently, the brand is flying off the shelves at its South African retailer. Even though prices range from R2 800 for refill vials to R14 800 for Clive Christian Jump Up And Kiss Me Hedonistic. (At the time of writing this post, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress costs R9 900 / £395 / $550 for 50ml.)

DISTURBIA

And this is where this post ventures into troubled territory. In a country with one of the highest levels of inequality in the world, an unemployment rate of 30%+, and an increasingly bleak national mood exacerbated by Covid-19, I’m disturbed that such amounts can be spent so freely on a fragrance. I type these words, and I feel judgemental and naïve and hypocritical at the same time. After all, haven’t I spent small fortunes on whatever gives me pleasure? So I will leave things there. For now.

Clive Christian fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

August 8, 2020August 10, 2020

Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles Review

Even when it’s a flanker, a new Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles EDP is a particularly good addition. The original and classic Hermès Eau des Merveilles (created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer) was launched in 2004. Now, with some 18 flankers and limited additions, one would expect the line to have run its course.

“Christine Nagel brings her sharply minimalist style to this EDP.”

However, Christine Nagel, who succeeded the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena as the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer in 2016, brings her sharply minimalist style to Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles. She’s already demonstrated this to great effect in Eau des Merveilles Bleu (2016), Galop d’Hermès (2016), Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate (2016) and Twilly d’Hermès (2017).

IN HOUSE: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel. Image: Fragrantica.

So what does Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles like?

It features just three listed notes: Black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and draws me in immediately. It’s almost aniseed-y, but that could just be me. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

I’m already looking forward to seeing what Nagel does with the next Hermès des Merveilles.

Available in Truworths and Woolworths stores. It will be available in selected Edgars stores from September 2020.

July 25, 2020

Montblanc Signature Review

I don’t normally make predictions. But having worn Montblanc Signature for the last month or so, the German luxury goods company has a big hit on its hands with this new EDP.

I won’t waste much time on the inspiration for Montblanc Signature – “the woman who is the author of her own life”. It doesn’t really tell us anything about the fragrance.

It was created by a duo of top perfumers. Guillaume Flavigny is known for creations such as Elizabeth Arden White Tea, Balmain Ambre Gris and Comme des Garcons Black. Nathalie Gracia-Cetto has produced Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky, Rochas Moustache and Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, among others. Both know how to create commercially successful scents, and it shows in Montblanc Signature.

SO WHAT DOES MONTBLANC SIGNATURE SMELL LIKE?

It opens with the sweet and juicy citrus hues of clementine, followed by a bouquet of peony, ylang-ylang and magnolia notes. The latter’s prominence builds on the intro’s fresh and luxurious vibe. It doesn’t take long for the fragrance’s main element – white musk – to come through. Luxurious yet clean, it works in tandem with a big dose of vanilla and benzoin.

Montblanc Signature is a fairly straightforward composition – one in which you can actually smell the seven listed notes. It’s effective all the same. The brand is known for its crowd-pleasers and this new pillar will undoubtedly become a favourite. Slightly reminiscent of another brand’s musk perfumes, but with its own spin on the theme, hallelujah, it doesn’t shout generic from the get-go.

It was conceptualised and executed before our current Covid-19 world, but interestingly captures what perfumer Frank Voelkl said in a recent interview on this blog about the biggest fragrance trends this decade: “Consumers have an increased desire for comfort, safety and feeling clean.”

Montblanc Signature EDP, R880 for 30ml, R1 055 for 50ml and R1 315 for 90ml, is available at Dis-Chem.

Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS