Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Cheapies Ahoy! Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP + Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT + Revlon Charlie Gold EDP + Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT + Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP

Cheap Fragrances

Finding a good, albeit expensive, perfume is a cinch. There’s so much choice and ultimately, the only limitation is the health of your bank account. Finding good cheap fragrances is an altogether different beast.

So in these economically tough times, it’s time to sniff out some cheerful cheap fragrances. Interestingly, the industry hates to call them “cheapies”. I was once corrected by the PR for a well-known American beauty company that they call them “value-for-money” products.

Cheap Fragrances

Whatever you call them, here are some standouts. What are your favourite cheap fragrances?

Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes EDP (Carlos Benaim)

Before your eyes roll, Elizabeth Taylor is one of the pioneers of the celeb fragrance category and her scents are good in a big and bold way.

Inspired by the legendary British actor’s eye colour, this EDP was released in 2010, a year before she moved on to the big mansion in the sky. A bouquet of florals follows the opening of juicy peach. I’m talking opulent notes of rose, jasmine and peony, with powderiness galore. Cedar stands out in the drydown.

Cheap Fragrances

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Pear Blossom EDT

The Elizabeth Arden Green Tea line has been around since 1999. Worthwhile variations on the theme include Pomegranate, Mimosa and Fig.

Green Tea Pear Blossom is the most recent addition and it’s as uplifting and pretty as it sounds. Pear and pear tree blossom are evident from the start and create a breezy fruity-floral vibe that’s balanced by green tea and mate. It settles on a base of musks.

Cheap Fragrances

Revlon Charlie Gold EDP

People of a certain age might remember Revlon Charlie from the 1970s and the accompanying advertising of confident and liberated women.

The original has spawned 20+ flankers and Charlie Gold EDP, released in 1995, is one of the best (please overlook the crap cap). There’s a slight aldehydic feel at first and then it’s fruit (apricot, peach, plum) and spice (cinnamon, cloves) all the way to the musky drydown. Lots of fun!

Cheap Fragrances

Zara Tobacco Collection Rich Warm Addictive EDT

With almost 600 releases to its name, the Spanish fast fashion retailer has a bit of a reputation as a fast fragrance retailer, too. While many of them feel churned out, this 2016 launch is probably one of their most popular and highly rated.

A big hit of tropical-ish honey and coconut features here, but there’s enough warm and cuddly tobacco to warrant it being called a tobacco scent. The sandalwood in the drydown is creamy deluxe. It all adds up to create a sweet treat with gourmand tendencies.

Cheap Fragrances

Yardley English Blazer Gold EDP

The Yardley English Blazer range reflects the British origins of the brand (it’s now owned by Indian company Wipro) and comprises gentlemanly versions such as Green, Black and Red.

There are those who think this EDP smells like Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb and they are right, up to a point, due to their shared notes of grapefruit, cinnamon and vetiver. It lacks the complexity and depth of that best-seller, but still delivers cheap thrills at a fraction of the price.

Cheap Fragrances

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Africa-Inspired Fragrances: Fertile Ground For The Imagination

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

While Africa isn’t a major market for perfume consumption, it is one for the sourcing of raw materials such as vanilla (Madagascar), African orange blossom (Tunisia) and Atlas cedar (Morocco). But my first blog post of 2021 isn’t about that topic. It’s about Africa-inspired fragrances.

“The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers.”

The continent has proved to be fertile ground for the imagination of perfumers. And for good reason. In the scheme of things (and while not indulging in any colonial stereotypes), Africa is still relatively undiscovered and exotic when compared to other continents.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

With Covid-19 continuing to rage in South Africa and any travel remaining verboten, my Africa inspired fragrances are a vital outlet for my own imaginings and yearnings.

There are some glaring omissions from this Africa-inspired fragrances round-up: Au Coeur du Désert, 01 Le Maroc Pour Elle and 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain, all by Tauer, and which I’m embarrassed to admit I haven’t tried yet.

Do you have any favourite Africa-inspired fragrances?

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

ELLA K CRI DU KALAHARI EDP* (SONIA CONSTANT)

I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting the Kalahari Desert and its beautifully named omuramba (the Herero word for the ancient riverbeds situated in the border area of Botswana and Namibia). So I’m happy to travel there vicariously courtesy of Ella K Cri du Kalahari. This 2019 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house founded by top perfumer Sonia Constant is inspired by evenings spent in this desert.

The EDP opens with the slight spice of green pepper and then gives way to a dense treatment of sandalwood and cedar to evoke the spectacular baobab trees in the area. Patchouli adds to the sense of earthy and woody moistness in the otherwise dry landscape.

Two other Africa-inspired fragrances from the brand are also worth sniffing out: Ella K Epupa Mon Amour EDP and Reflet Sur L’Okavango EDP.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

RALPH LAUREN SAFARI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Ralph Lauren Safari is officially for women, but is, in fact, perfectly unisex. It also happens to be a 90s classic created by the legendary Dominique Ropion (Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, Mugler Alien, YSL L’Homme).

This EDP opens with an authentic marigold note and a smattering of orange in the background. The heart is all about florals and features a rich display of narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley notes. It then takes a woody and earthy turn with notes of sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli all working together in unison. The beauty of this fragrance is how is flows from start to finish to create something complex and unique.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BERDOUES MAASAÏ MARA (PHILIPPE ROMANO)

Berdoues is a fourth-generation, family-owned perfume business. Their Collection Grands Crus focuses on feel-good blends that recall destinations such as Japan (Somei Yoshino), Tahiti (Vânira Moorea), Lebanon (Arz el-Rab) and Costa Rica (Guaria Morada), among others.

This mellow and warm 2017 release takes its cue from Kenya’s famous national reserve. I don’t get the listed opening note of blue camomile from Egypt, but the combo of amber-y labdanum from Spain and buchu from South Africa, with its fruity nuances, do a fine job of conjuring a uniquely African landscape in the brand’s straightforward style.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TIMBUKTU EDT* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.

Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart of this EDT, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note. The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence from the Paris-based niche fragrance pioneer!

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP* (JEROME EPINETTE)

Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this Jerome Epinette creation.

The tone is set from the opening with its citrus notes of lemon and neroli, and the notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality. The smokiness of the vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk in the drydown.

Africa-Inspired Fragrances

MEMO MOROCCAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Travel is a popular source of inspiration in perfumery. Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo taps into it better than most, with perfumes influenced by their founders’ travel memories. The brand’s African Leather is a modern classic, but this 2018 release from the Cuirs Nomades Collection is well worth discovering, too.

Bitter green galbanum is one of the first notes to stand out. It’s deftly balanced by floral notes of orange blossom and ylang-ylang, while ginger brings market spice. The combo of dry vetiver, powdery iris and a deep leather accord make the drydown particularly memorable.

4711 ACQUA COLONIA INTENSE SUNNY SEASIDE OF ZANZIBAR (DAPHNE BUGEY)

Many of us know 4711 Original Eau de Cologne. What’s less well known perhaps is the brand’s range of intense, longer-lasting colognes that includes variations such as Floral Fields of Ireland, Wakening Woods of Scandinavia and Pure Breeze of Himalaya. Launched in 2019, Sunny Seaside of Zanzibar lives up to its island holiday inspiration with aplomb.

The opening features an appealing combo of fresh watermelon and softly spicy aniseed notes. The tropical vibe builds up with a melange of coconut, frangipani, musk and vanilla notes, eventually settling on a woody base of vetiver and cedar. It’s sunny escapist stuff at its best.

*These Africa-inspired fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Aquatic Fragrances Three Ways: Bvlgari Aqua Pour Homme + Heeley Sel Marin + Memo Ocean Leather

Aquatic Fragrances

For Covid-19 second-wave reasons, I shan’t be seeing the sea this time of year, as I’d hoped to do. But that won’t stop me from bringing the sea home when I have these three aquatic fragrances at my disposal.

Now, I have a conflicted relationship with the ocean. I find being near it calming and relaxing, especially the whooshing sound and salty breeze-laden smell. But I don’t necessarily enjoy being in it. Silly, I know…

BVLGARI AQUA POUR HOMME EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER-BELLETRUD)

Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, especially on the designer side, but many haven’t dated well. This popular Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (currently Louis Vuitton’s in-house perfumer) creation from 2005 is not one of those has-beens.

“Aquatic fragrances were particularly popular in the 1990s and noughties, but many haven’t dated well.”

It opens in fresh citrus mode with notes of sweet mandarin orange and green petitgrain. It’s an uplifting combo. The seaweed note is subtly salty, its aromatic profile accentuated by lavender. Woody notes, specifically Virginia cedar and patchouli, continue the softness in the drydown. The amber is kept to a thankful minimum.

It’s a sophisticated, slightly restrained take on the theme. Great bottle too – the blue and green spherical shape captures its inspiration oh so cleverly.

Aquatic Fragrances

HEELEY SEL MARIN EDP* (JAMES HEELEY)

Wow! This 2008 release is a masterstroke. But that should come as no surprise. It’s a creation from the Yorkshire-born / Paris-based perfumer who’s responsible for beauties such as Heeley Cardinal (2006) and Heeley L’Amandière (2011). His skills are displayed to maximum effect in Sel Marin (French for “sea salt”).

Aquatic Fragrances

The intro is sharp, with citrus notes of bergamot and lemon conjuring a fresh sea breeze. It doesn’t take long for the main attraction to come into focus: a wondrous splash of moss, algae and, in particular, sea salt notes. Many aquatic fragrances are heavy-handed on the sea salt. This one gets it exactly right. The drydown is all about driftwoods, with fresh cedar and vetiver supported by clean musk and a hint of leathery birch.

Although inspired by sunny days at the beach, I get a far moodier and tempestuous feel. Either way, it’s as realistic as it gets.

Aquatic Fragrances

MEMO OCEAN LEATHER EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo does some of the best leather fragrances in the biz for their Cuir Nomades Collection. From Irish to African, there’s always an interesting interpretation.

As the beautifully designed bottle will tell you, the latest 2020 release, Memo Ocean Leather, takes its inspiration from the sperm whale. But just to clarify matters, it’s not an ambergris fragrance.

Aquatic Fragrances

There’s a burst of mandarin orange at first. It’s contrasted with the fresh aromatics of basil and the powder of violet. The aromatics continue in the form of clary sage absolute, but it’s the elemi that really stands out, with its terpenic qualities. The drydown features a leather accord that’s given earthy depth with notes of nutmeg and vetiver.

Of the three aquatic fragrances featured here, it’s the least literal interpretation, but intriguing nevertheless.

Aquatic Fragrances

*Available at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum Review

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

We all knew Francis Kurkdjian was a highly accomplished perfumer before he launched his own eponymously named niche fragrance house in 2009. And then from 2012, he upped his credentials even more, as the king of oud, with a succession of top-quality releases. These include Oud EDP (2012), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015) and Oud Silk Mood EDP (2018). I’ve recently fallen under the spell of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum.

I got the opportunity to interview the Paris-based perfumer over a year ago. I asked him about working with oud and he said: “It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”

“It was basically an alternative to me of using the animalic notes that I love, which are more and more forbidden in perfumery.”

While I wouldn’t describe Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum as particularly animalic, boy is it special!

Infused with slightly peppery and resinous warmth, elemi from the Philippines opens this 2018 release. There’s then the waft of fine and luxurious musk. Interesting to note that Kurkdjian uses Ambrettolide, the Givaudan-produced vegetal musk renowned for its smoothness and floral undertones. It mingles with a soft take on cedar and creamy, but (thankfully) sugar-free vanilla.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

Oud is  one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, and the Laotian variety is especially prized for its depth and variations. Every time I smell it in this extrait de parfum, I get something different. From leathery and woody to fruity to powdery. It’s deftly complemented by Indonesian patchouli, with its earthy and woody nuances.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

From the listed ingredients on the brand’s website, there’s no doubt the best have been used to produce one of the most sophisticated oud perfumes around. It’s impeccably smooth, yet full of sensual depth and character.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Kenzo Jungle Review: A Most Unusual Creature

Kenzo Jungle

I didn’t officially pay tribute to Kenzo Takada when he died from Covid-19 in October 2020. So this review of Kenzo Jungle is also my belated celebration of the Japanese designer’s vibrant global aesthetic and his pioneering contribution to fashion. He moved to Paris in 1964 and lived there until his death at the age of 81, according to The Guardian.

Image: LVMH.

Even though Kenzo Jungle was launched in 1996, three years after LVMH acquired his company (he stayed on as head designer until 1999), it has his adventurous spirit throughout. As with other fragrances from the brand such as Kenzo Pour Homme (1991), L’Eau Par Kenzo Pour Femme (1996) and Kenzo Flower (2 000).

Apparently named after his first boutique in the French capital, Jungle Jap (which opened in 1970), it was created by Dominique Ropion.

Kenzo Jungle

WHAT MAKES KENZO JUNGLE SO SPECIAL

The opening is big on the spice, especially cloves and cumin. While neither of these notes is known for being shy, they also don’t go on the rampage through the proverbial perfume Jungle. A smidgen of mandarin orange brings sunny freshness to the proceedings.

Kenzo Jungle is at its boldest and most unusual in what follows. Here, the spice of cardamom and a particularly distinctive take on liquorice meet the heady florals of banana-ish ylang-ylang and gardenia. Juicy mango adds to the tropical vibe. Be warned: this liquorice is divisive stuff!

Kenzo Jungle

Featuring notes of patchouli and vanilla, the drydown is equally captivating. They maintain the appealing sweetness, without venturing into gourmand territory (although the Kenzo website claims otherwise).

Almost 25 years after its launch, Kenzo Jungle has lost none of its exotic energy. It’s the kind of fragrance that shows what’s possible when designer brands take a much-needed (and rare) risk.

Kenzo Jungle

It’s reassuring that it’s still in production (ditto the male version, although the plug was pulled on Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre, which I haven’t tried). Currently on sale at my local pharmacy for the ridiculous price of R1 250 for 100ml (approximately US$80 / £60 / €68), I’m hoping perfume-lovers will snap up this creature while they can.

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Terre d’Hermès EDT Review: A Veritable Modern Classic

Terre d'Hermès

Sometimes I’m guilty of over-using the term “modern classic”. But if I’m strict in its application, Hermès Terre d’Hermès would surely deserve this accolade. Both in terms of its innovation and influence.

I’ve found myself returning to it many times this year. There’s something undeniably comforting and timeless about wearing this scent. During the worst of lockdown earlier this year when venturing beyond the confines of the flat was fraught with all sorts of imagined risks and fears, my beloved TDH brought the beauty of nature directly to me.

“It has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents.”

Launched in 2006 (and also available in highly recommended Parfum and Eau Intense Vetiver EDP versions), it has Jean-Claude Ellena’s minimalist, but bold style all over it. Nothing is gratuitous in this most elegant of scents. “Feeling the earth, lying on the ground, gazing at the sky,” is how the legendary perfumer described it, according to the French luxury brand’s website.

Terre d'Hermès

Its appeal is evident from the get-go. Notes of slightly sweet orange and tart grapefruit provide a perfect balance of sunny and uplifting citrus. While this citrus is unusually present throughout, a gentle twist of black pepper brings a spicy and earthy component to the composition.

The drydown is wonderfully woody, with a combo of cedar, patchouli and vetiver in play. The latter deserves a special mention. While characteristically earthy, its freshness is also what makes TDH so memorable.

Interestingly, according to Women’s Wear Daily, Ellena decided not to use musk notes when creating it. “Musk creates a mask on the skin,” he said, “So each time [it is worn], the fragrance is unique.”

Officially a men’s fragrance, Terre d’Hermès is absolutely unisex and is accompanied by a range of grooming products, including a hair and body shower gel, shaving foam, perfumed soap and after-shave lotion.

Terre d’Hermès EDT is available from Woolworths.. R1 485 for 50ml and R1 980 for 100ml.

Terre d'Hermès

 

 

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Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée Review: It’s All A Bit Of A (Beautiful) Blur

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

Someone at Chanel deserves a raise! I’m not the only one who enjoys wearing a fragrance when it’s bedtime. Preferably something soft and comforting. And now the French luxury company has come up with a scent specifically for this essential nocturnal rejuvenation: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée.

“It’s relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor.”

Coco Mademoiselle made its debut in 2001 and has gone onto become a best-seller. If the original was stimulating, extroverted and big on the patchouli, then Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor. This is Chanel, after all.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

It was created by Olivier Polge, who’s been increasingly making his mark as in-house perfumer since 2015 with releases such as Boy Chanel, Gabrielle and the Les Eaux de Chanel range.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

HOUSE PERFUMER: Olivier Polge is increasingly making his mark at Chanel. Image: Chanel.

WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE?

It opens with a touch of mandarin orange. This note can be invigorating, but here it’s suitably soothing. Jasmine and rose sounds like a heady and intoxicating combination, but in Polge’s skilful hands, this floral accord is subdued yet sensual at the same time. The signature patchouli is still there, but very much in the background. Dollops of clean white musk complete the composition.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is a straightforward scent, but that doesn’t take away from its elegance and suitability as a bedtime companion. It has a hazy, dreamy feel, in which none of the elements feels overly defined.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

While it was conceptualised before our current Covid situation, its launch is perfectly timed. Who couldn’t do with some sleep-enhancing reassurance in 2020 à la Chanel? Judging from all the IG posts I’m already seeing on this release, Chanel has a hit on its hands. Will other brands start releasing night versions of their scents too?

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée, R2 315 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L'Eau Privée

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3 Classic Rose Fragrances: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP + Amouage Lyric Man EDP + Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Classic Rose Fragrances

Several months ago I did a round-up on best rose perfumes to show the variety on offer. Since then, I have felt the need to add these three classic rose fragrances. Each one is a standout in its own way and different from the others featured here.

Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose EDP

Most of us know that Frédéric Malle celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. For any company that’s an achievement, but for the Paris-based niche fragrance house it’s a recognition of the quality and creativity that’s become its signature. This standard was evident from the get-go in the launch collection that included Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices and Une Fleur de Cassie.

A NOSE FOR TALENT: Frédéric Malle spotted the beauty of Lipstick Rose in a competition. Image: Frédéric Malle.

According to the brand’s website, this Ralf Schwieger (Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Mugler Womanity) creation came into being after an early version captivated a blind-folded Monsieur Malle in a young perfumer talent competition. We can thank Malle for his astute instincts, as Lipstick Rose is now an integral part of the brand’s superb quartet of classic rose fragrances: Portrait of A Lady, Une Rose and Rose & Cuir. You can read my review of Une Rose here.

Classic Rose Fragrances

Inspired by a “star’s moment of privacy at her dressing table with her lipstick”, it’s suitably glamorous and vintage-y, yet thoroughly modern at the same time.

A slightly sweet and fresh violet is offset by the bitter citrus of grapefruit. The powderiness of the violet is accentuated by the star of the show and iris. The dynamic between the rose and raspberry is technically brilliant. Each brings out the fruity rosiness in each other in a most beautiful way. It’s subtly sweet, supremely elegant, and finished off with musk and vanilla in the later stages of the perfume’s progression. Sensual doesn’t even begin to describe it.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa. 

Classic Rose Fragrances

Amouage Lyric Man EDP

Since its founding by the sultan of Oman in 1983, Amouage fragrances have developed a devoted following. A succession of top-quality releases inspired by the best of the Middle East and Western perfume traditions include Amouage Epic, Amouage Interlude and Amouage Jubilation XXV.

“‘It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too.”

Launched in 2008 and created by the relatively low-profile Daniel Visentin, Amouage Lyric Man has gone on to become one of the company’s best sellers. And for good reason. It can take a lot of the credit for persuading the more open-minded that rose fragrances are for men, too. (Why are designer brands still so hesitant to showcase roses in all their beauty?).

Classic Rose Fragrances

It’s resolutely robust from the top, featuring citrus-infused lime and bergamot. That freshness gives way to a big boy rose that’s given a musky boost by a generous dose of angelica. Where would Amouage Lyric Man be without its oriental swirl of frankincense? Its smokiness is not shy in making its presence felt, sometimes overpowering the sandalwood and musk in the drydown. On my skin this EDP has an almost soapy quality, part of its ample charm.

I don’t judge a fragrance on its longevity and sillage, but I reckon some of Amouage Lyric Man’s popularity is down to its potency, which appeals to the “beast mode” brigade.

Available at Skins Cosmetics South Africa.

Classic Rose Fragrances

Le Jardin Retrouvé Rose Trocadéro EDP

Founded by Yuri Gutsatz in 1975, the Paris-based brand can justifiably claim to be one of the pioneers of niche perfumery, along with L’Artisan Parfumeur. After his death in 2005, the maison declined and eventually ceased to operate.

Realising the treasure trove they had at their disposal, Yuri’s son, Michel, and his wife, Clara, relaunched the company in 2016, with perfumer Maxence Moutte recreating fragrances from the Russia-born perfumer’s original formulas. You can read my interview with Michel and Clara here.

Of the three classic rose fragrances in this post, it’s the most natural smelling. Which should come as no surprise – Le Jardin Retrouvé means “the garden refound”.

There’s a green, softly fruity intro featuring blackcurrant buds. The rose itself is all about the petals and the best Bulgarian rose absolute is used to create this effect. Clove can be a bossy note, but here it adds just the right amount of contrasting and complementary spiciness. The drydown – woody and musky – completes the nostalgic mood.

“Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.”

As with all Le Jardin Retrouvés, Rose Trocadéro is a personal and quiet experience. It’s one to wear when you want to keep a rose all to yourself.

Available on the brand’s website.

Classic Rose Fragrances

 

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M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 Review

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

Many niche fragrance brands flirt with the idea of art and perfume (the “is perfume art?” debate won’t be explored here). M.Micallef have made it a core part of their ethos, and the recently launched M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 epitomises their approach.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

The company was founded by Martine Micallef and her husband Geoffrey Nejman in 1996 in Grasse. Since then it has released a steady stream of luxurious fragrances without compromising on quality, in close collaboration with perfumer Jean Claude Astier. Collections include Les Exclusifs, Ananda, Jewel, Mon Parfum and Secrets of Love (pictured below).

Images: Supplied.

For M.Micallef Art Collection 2020, self-proclaimed “artistic soul” and the brand’s creative director, Martine Micallef, worked with Azerbaijani artist Ruh Zadeh. The result? A work of art, from the exquisite box to the bottle. Inspired by his artwork, Martine hand-painted all 2 000 bottles for this true limited edition.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

Artistic Collaborator: Ruh Zadeh. Image: Supplied.

The scent itself was something of a surprise when I first started wearing it. When I received my vividly coloured bottle (it was sent to several other bloggers too), my brain said, “Hot florals”, for some reason.

However, what I’ve been getting from the opening is a crisp green take on mandarin orange, star anise and bergamot notes. The coolness keeps on coming in the form of fresh and powdery violet, with a hint of earthy nutmeg in the background. Then there’s a slight shift to a warmer, more sensual mood when cashmere wood comes through. Its muskiness is complemented by a leather, patchouli and oakmoss accord in the woody drydown. It’s a minimalist composition, in which Astier’s creative and technical skills are evident. Having spent a month or so enjoying this EDP, Zadeh’s artistic interpretation of it makes more sense to me now.

5 QUICK QUESTIONS FOR MARTINE MICALLEF
How do you and your husband work together?

I oversee artistic and olfactive development, and Geoffrey is in charge of finance and administration. The best duo team!

How did you meet Ruh Zadeh and what made this collaboration different from previous ones?

I met him during a M.Micallef event in Baku [the capital of Azerbaijan]. There was an immediate liking for each other and artistic admiration. I was seduced by his work and culture.

PERFUME COUPLE: Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef. Image: Supplied.

Jean Claude Astier (pictured below) is almost your in-house perfumer. Why does this relationship have such longevity?

From day one, he was our perfume mentor. We both developed a passionate collaboration to create an international signature for the brand. He has always been wonderfully receptive to my intuitions, a great interpreter, and writes a formula like a music composer. This challenging friendship is for ever.

Have you started planning the Art Collection for 2021?

Yes, I have already signed a new feminine collaboration. It’s innovative and, at this stage, secret…

The company turns 25 next year. How you will celebrate that achievement?

With a major launch named Edenfalls. Our intention is to share a happy celebration with all our distributors and clients throughout 2021.

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020 retails for €245 on the brand’s website. 

M.Micallef Art Collection 2020

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Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress Review: The Smell Of A $500+ Perfume

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress

For better and for worse, Clive Christian has become synonymous with the phrase “the most expensive perfume in the world” (see the pic below). Following its recent arrival in South Africa, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is the first fragrance I’ve tried from the British luxury brand. With all the hype surrounding this company, I was almost determined not to like this release from 2018. Just to be contrary. Sometimes I can be like that.

Pic: clivechristian.com.

However, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress is an exquisite fragrance from top to bottom. Slightly bitter petitgrain and bergamot announce themselves in the opening. They are wrapped in a finely fresh take on cypress and a perfectly balanced spicy trio of clove, nutmeg and ginger. Amber, so over-used in recent male fragrances, is elevated to the most sophisticated resinous powderiness, with support from cedar and oakwood.

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress

It’s a long time since I’ve come across such a seamless scent. I can believe the blurb on the website about it being a 25% pure perfume concentration that’s made from the finest ingredients.

Apparently, the brand is flying off the shelves at its South African retailer. Even though prices range from R2 800 for refill vials to R14 800 for Clive Christian Jump Up And Kiss Me Hedonistic. (At the time of writing this post, Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress costs R9 900 / £395 / $550 for 50ml.)

Clive Christian Noble XXI Cypress

DISTURBIA

And this is where this post ventures into troubled territory. In a country with one of the highest levels of inequality in the world, an unemployment rate of 30%+, and an increasingly bleak national mood exacerbated by Covid-19, I’m disturbed that such amounts can be spent so freely on a fragrance. I type these words, and I feel judgemental and naïve and hypocritical at the same time. After all, haven’t I spent small fortunes on whatever gives me pleasure? So I will leave things there. For now. 

Clive Christian fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.