Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Simple Pleasures: The Best Uncomplicated Fragrances

Uncomplicated Fragrances

Who says perfumes must be complex to be good? The best uncomplicated fragrances rely on simple compositions in which it’s possible to pick up most of the listed notes.

This doesn’t mean there’s less technical and creative expertise involved in producing these uncomplicated fragrances. If anything, it takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.

“It takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.”

Uncomplicated Fragrances
SIMPLE ENOUGH: French brand Berdoues is particularly good at uncomplicated fragrances.

Here’s my selection of the best uncomplicated fragrances. The perfect antidote to our over-stimulated times.

Do you have any favourite uncomplicated fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE LE PARFUM EDP INTENSE (QUENTIN BISCH & NATHALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Launched in 1995, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. 50+ flankers and limited editions later, Le Male Le Parfum was released in 2020 to celebrate its 25th anniversary. More streamlined than the original, one might even call him mature.

This EDP (the parfum bit must be for marketing purposes) opens with the sweet spice of cardamom. Aromatic lavender is given a powdery vibe thanks to iris, while vanilla cosies up with woody notes in the drydown.

Staying true to the original with its prominent accents of lavender and vanilla, it’s very likeable in a warm and sensual oriental style.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Frédéric Malle describes Cologne Indélébile as “erotic naiveté”. Only the French could get away with such language. What I do know is that this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house makes me feel incredibly calm and refreshed.

Opening all fresh, citrusy and green with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain, it isn’t a reinvention of the classic cologne format. There’s no need for that. The florals of orange blossom and narcissus maintain the crisp feel, while tempering the initial sharpness.

Colognes are often things of fleeting beauty, but an overdose of white musk gives this one more oomph than usual. It also gives this beauty a chic cleanness.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

BERDOUES VÂNIRA MOOREA EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

Something simple? Something a bit exotic? Something that will make you want to smell yourself? Repeatedly. This 2016 release from the Grasse-based company’s travel-inspired Grands Crus Collection will satisfy these needs. And more.

Featuring fresh citrus notes of petitgrain and orange, the opening will draw you in immediately. It’s a bright and sunny island mood (even if you’re stuck behind your PC), with green aspects. And then there’s the vanilla from Moorea, an island near Tahiti. It’s smooth, creamy and tropical, without being too sticky sweet. Delicious stuff!

I also recommend other simple pleasures from this brand, such as Maasaï Mara and Selva do Brazil.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

HERMÈS UN JARDIN SUR LA LAGUNE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’m all for fragrances that take me to special places in these Covid-limiting times. And Hermès Un Jardin Sur La Lagune does that in understated style.

For the most recent addition to the Gardens Collection (2019), the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel took inspiration from a secret garden in a Venice lagoon.

Its white florals (magnolia, lily and pittosporum) have a subtly sweet scent. In the background there’s a marine accord, with a soupçon of salt, adding to the freshness. Settling on a woody base, this unisex EDT is relaxing and dreamy. Couldn’t ask for more right now.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE)

Diptyque excels at perfumes that smell wonderfully natural. And this 1988 release is a prime example. It takes its inspiration from the lush smells emanating from Venetian gardens during summer evenings.

That mood begins in opulent style with notes of narcissus and honeysuckle. It’s floral, but with green accents. The fresh floral theme continues with notes of wisteria and jasmine, without tipping into unbearable sweetness.

It’s an olfactory invite to get lost in it all and with a perfume this good, how could you refuse?

Uncomplicated Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families.

The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan. In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

I also rate Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George from the same range.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

HUGO BOSS HUGO REVERSED EDT

Hugo Boss fragrances have been about zesty freshness since the launch of the original in 1995, and this 2018 release fits the pattern.

Probably the best flanker from the range, it opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a hint of clean vetiver.

This no-frills, but surprisingly versatile scent is primarily aimed at young men but is too good not to try for yourself if you’re from an older demographic. Points for the graphic flacon too.

Image: Hugo Boss.
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE THIS IS LOVE! FOR HIM EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

I’ve had a soft spot for Zadig & Voltaire releases for quite some time and can’t recommend them enough for their terrific value. This 2020 release affirms why the French rock-chic fashion label gets it right.

Fresh bergamot opens this EDT. It’s followed by a note of sunshine-kissed orange blossom. But it’s the big dose of warm and creamy sandalwood in the drydown that wraps up this creation rather nicely.

It’s as deceptively simple as 1, 2 , 3, but oh so effective and sensual.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron. A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental ambience.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)

I’m always keen to try Escentric Molecules fragrances to learn more about the chemistry of perfumery. Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 showcases the aroma-molecule Cashmeran (also known as cashmere wood or blond woods).

This synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least. It can be found in everything from Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras to Maison Martin Margiela By The Fireplace. With its musky and woody qualities, there’s a good reason why it’s such an essential part of any perfumer’s toolkit. On its own in this 2020 release, there’s lots of dry cosiness, with a gentle sweetness.

Thanks for the lesson, Mr Schoen. Fascinating, as always.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The latest addition (2020) to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet to the vegan formula, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Esteemed French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian can always be relied upon to produce elegant, timeless scents. This year, he released cologne forte (strong) versions of the best-selling unisex Aqua range: Universalis, Celestia and Vitae.

All three are worth sniffing out, but Aqua Celestia Cologne Forte (pictured below, right) stands out with its seeming effortlessness.

The opening is on the tart side, with the citrus hues of bergamot at the fore. But not for long, as the fruitiness of blackcurrant, mimosa and jasmine notes come into play. The fruitiness continues through to the musky and powdery drydown.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

*These best uncomplicated fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP Review

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

With the enigmatic and visionary Rei Kawakubo as creative director of the Paris-based fashion brand (she would never call her creations “fashion”), Comme des Garçons fragrances could never be ordinary. The eponymous EDP (pictured, below) established the company’s unconventional approach to perfumery in a big and spicy way in 1994. More than twenty-five years later, Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP arrived on the market.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

Both designer and niche, the company has had its fair share of ups and downs over the decades. This is to be expected when releases range from the downright anti-perfumes such as Series 6: Synthetic Garage EDT (2004), with its kerosene smell, to the more approachable Floriental EDP (2015).

Does Comme des Garçons Rouge live up to the brand’s creative and innovative reputation?

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE PERFUMER

Born and raised in Grasse, France, the award-winning Nathalie Gracia-Cetto (pictured, above) has earned praise for her designer and niche creations. These include Fragrance du Bois Oud Jaune Intense Parfum (2013), Ex Nihilo Love Shot EDP (2016), Tom Ford Soleil Blanc EDP (2016), Rochas Moustache EDP (2018) and Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky EDT (2018).

The pharmacology graduate also created Radish Vetiver EDP for Comme des Garçons’ Clash Collection in 2019, so is familiar with their aesthetic.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.
SO WHAT DOES COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE SMELL LIKE?

Beetroot! Yep, the root vegetable stands out in the opening and pretty much throughout the scent’s progression. Its innate earthiness is given a spicy, rosy, slightly sweet twist with a pink peppercorn note. There’s more spice from zesty ginger. Its freshness is enhanced by the Egyptian geranium leaves, with their minty and gently metallic profile.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

The intrigue doesn’t stop there. Incense makes its presence felt, without being overpowering. Its resinous smoke is complemented by the muskiness of patchouli and cistus.

There’s no shortage of fragrances with the word “rouge” in it and packaging to match. But Comme des Garçons Rouge is not just another marketing gimmick and proves the brand has not lost its edge.

While the beetroot is prominent, it’s treated and blended in such a clever way, there’s a good chance, you could love this fragrance even if you normally hate eating the vegetable.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

If you’re looking for something different, but not outrageously experimental, this scent achieves a fine balancing act of pleasing long-time Comme des Garçons fans, while not alienating potential new devotees.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Chopard Fragrances Overview: Love Chopard EDP + Black Incense Malaki EDP + Oud Malaki EDP + Happy Chopard Collection

Chopard Fragrances

Chopard fragrances were recently launched in South Africa, and I was fortunate to be on the receiving end of several of their releases. While I’m familiar with the olfactory offerings from other luxury jewellery and watch brands (for example, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Cartier), it’s my first time with Chopard.

Image: chopard.com.

The Swiss company founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard (pictured,  above) in 1860 has been in the fragrance biz since the 1980s. Earlier classic releases, Chopard Happy Diamonds (1986) and Chopard Casmir (1992), have been discontinued. But judging from the perfumes I received, the company has more than enough quality current scents to go around.

Image: Fragrantica.

“Sustainability” is often just a corporate buzzword, but from the admirably detailed product info, Chopard seems to be doing more than most to ensure their fragrances meet their “do good, feel good” philosophy. The brand emphasises its commitment to responsibly and ethically sourced ingredients (many of them naturals) from certified partners.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included after the name of the fragrance in this Chopard overview.

JOIE DE VIVRE: Julia Roberts is the face of the Chopard Happy Diamonds Collection. Image: chopard.com.
CHOPARD LOVE CHOPARD EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Another day, another rose perfume… Not quite. While this recent (2020) release is a take on the queen of florals, it’s sufficiently different and multifaceted enough to stand out in the crowded category.

Chopard Fragrances

Billed as the company’s glamorous tribute to roses à la the Cannes Film Festival Red Carpet (Chopard is an official partner of the event), it’s roses from top to bottom. Various essences were used to create this EDP, including Turkish rose infusion, Bulgarian rose oil, Moroccan centifolia rose absolute and rose damascena absolute from Turkey.

Image: chopard.com.

It starts out fresh and dewy, with hints of pink pepper and cinnamon in the background. Bravo to the brand for admitting to the use of the synthetic rose molecule Roseolate, with its fruity nuances. It gets spicier and warmer as the fragrance progresses, with notes of jasmine sambac and orange blossom adding to the richness. There’s a lot going on in the gourmand drydown, in which earthy patchouli meets notes of honey, cacao and vanilla.

The result? Sweet, over-the-top sophistication. And I mean that in a good way.

Chopard Fragrances

CHOPARD BLACK INCENSE MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Wowzers! Inspired by the ancient tradition of royal frankincense, the most recent addition to the brand’s Middle East-inspired Malaki Collection (2020) is standout stuff. Some people might even use the dreaded phrase, “niche quality”, to describe it.

The fresh aromatics of lavandin oil from France is distinctive among the various spices of the opening. There’s then plenty more spice of the smoky and resinous frankincense kind, courtesy of the essential oil sourced from family-owned company Neo Botanika in Somaliland.

Chopard Fragrances

Perfume geek alert! It’s given a leather-licious feel thanks to “a pyrogenation process [which] sublimates the original note”, according to Firmenich. I’m not quite sure what that means, but the effect is intoxicatingly dark and potent. The dense drydown sees Indonesian patchouli taking the lead, with its earthy and musky properties.

Alberto Morillas (pictured, below) might be the most prolific perfumer in the biz, but he has not lost his touch.

Image: Firmenich.
CHOPARD OUD MALAKI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

From Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Mugler Alien EDP to Elie Saab Girl of Now EDP and YSL Y EDP, Dominique Ropion (pictured, below) gets the balance between creative and commercial success just right. This 2012 release from the Malaki Collection exemplifies this approach. Let’s get the obvious out of the way first. At the price, this is definitely not a “real” oud, but Ropion masterfully creates a damn fine approximation.

Chopard Fragrances

Featuring notes of grapefruit, lavender and artemisia, the opening is brisk and fresh. The temperature increases with a combo of caramel-y tobacco and spice. The synthetic oud is quality stuff and captures the warm and sweet muskiness of the precious ingredient in an accessible style. It’s accentuated by synthetic ambergris and wood notes.

Don’t let all this talk of synthetics – the backbone of modern perfumery – put you off this EDP. They’re used in the right way, so you wouldn’t even know the difference.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY CHOPARD LEMON DUCLI EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

The Happy Chopard Collection was launched in 2018 and takes its cue from the scientific research on the link between feel-good scents and their influence on mood. Although not marketed as such, it has a younger feel than the other Chopard ranges, but has broad appeal. Lemon Dulci is my favourite from the line.

Chopard Fragrances

The opening is all uplifting citrus freshness, with bergamot, mandarin and, in particular, primofiore lemon essences from southern Italy on show. Shiso leaves and mint add a zesty green element, while notes of orange flower water and apple bring a delicate sweetness to the composition.

It’s the perfect choice when I’m moody AF.

Chopard Fragrances
HAPPY DAYS: Dora Baghriche created the Happy Chopard Collection. Image: Firmenich.
HAPPY CHOPARD FELICIA ROSES EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

Gosh, isn’t this 2018 release pretty, although I didn’t notice it at first after the flamboyance of Love Chopard!

The rose nuances of the notes of pink pepper and raspberry extract are played up in the intro, while pink grapefruit essential oil brings an element of citrus crispness. Notes of Bulgarian rose bud and absolute create a fresh and dewy ambience, with blackcurrant bud absolute adding to the greenery. The drydown is gently woody, with cedarwood essential oil from Alaska, of all places, mingling with the vanilla tones of Brazilian tonka bean.

It all adds up to produce a perfume that’s beautifully natural smelling. Probably all those natural essences.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY CHOPARD BIGARADIA EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

The bigarade (or bitter orange) tree has a special place in perfumery. Apart from its fruit, its blossoms, leaves and twigs are steam distilled to produce neroli and petitgrain respectively. This 2018 release makes the most of it in a warm and sunny way.

Chopard Fragrances

It opens with the freshness of bitter orange, neroli and petitgrain oils. The effect is uplifting in a tart and green manner. A carrot note adds an element of powderiness. The sun keeps on shining and the composition gets sweeter with the appearance of orange blossom water, Chinese sambac jasmine and honey from Provence. After all that lightness, it’s the turn of Indonesian patchouli and cistus labdanum to bring earthy depth to the composition.

This is immensely likeable stuff!

Chopard fragrances are available in South Africa at Edgars and Truworths.

 

 

 

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Vegan Fragrances 101: Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP + Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP Reviews

Vegan Fragrances

A walk down the aisles of your local supermarket will confirm that veganism (and a part- or full-time commitment to a plant-based diet) is now completely mainstream. So it was just a matter of time before vegan fragrances became a thing.

Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.

“Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.”

Two brands – Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn – were recently launched in South Africa. Both focus on vegan fragrances for those who’re increasingly concerned about the ethical and environmental consequences of their consumption.

Vegan Fragrances

Personally, I have no issue with the use of beeswax or honey when they are sourced responsibly and sustainably. And I would gladly wear a perfume containing ambergris, the precious ingredient secreted by sperm whales. It becomes a bit murkier with the use of animalic notes like civet, which were at one stage an integral part of classics such as Chanel Coco, Danu Tabu and YSL Kouros.

Vegan Fragrances
Image: woolworths.co.za.

I did a bit of quick research and discovered that leading South African retailer Woolworths has an extensive selection of vegan fragrances in its WBeauty range. According to Totally Vegan Buzz, vegan-friendly brands include Lush, Le Labo, Clean, Stella McCartney, Gallivant and Eden. I also noticed that in its marketing for cK Everyone, Calvin Klein gives a lot of attention to its vegan formula.

Vegan Fragrances

Two things to note:

  • If vegan fragrances are important to you, do your homework regarding the legitimacy of a brand’s claims. For example, have they been certified by an organisation such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta)?
  • Just because a brand isn’t vegan doesn’t mean it condones cruelty to animals.

And now onto the reviews of these two vegan fragrances that have recently caught my nose.

ELLIS BROOKLYN MYTH EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

This NYC-based company was founded by New York Times beauty columnist Bee Shapiro (pictured, below) in 2015 after she gave birth to her first child and became serious about “clean” beauty.

Vegan Fragrances

Myth was part of the brand’s launch range and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of their best sellers.

It opens with a silky-sleek waft of powdery ambrette, the naturally derived musk, supported by notes of green cassis and crisp bergamot. The trio of florals that follows – tiger orchid, pink lotus, jasmine petals – is pretty indeed, in an airy, fresh and delicately sweet style. The drydown is sensually soft, with notes of white musk, patchouli and white cedar.

This eminently likeable scent is compliment-bait, if that’s a part of your purchasing decision. But most importantly, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance.

Vegan Fragrances

All Ellis Brooklyn fragrances are paraben-, phthalates- and cruelty-free, and Peta–certified vegan. They come in glass bottles from an Ecocert supplier and the Bakelite caps are made without the use of petroleum or its byproducts. – Brand website.

FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

The founder of this British brand, Michelle Feeney (pictured, below) , comes with major credentials. Before launching her company in 2017, she worked in senior roles for La Mer, MAC Cosmetics and St Tropez, among others.

Vegan Fragrances
Image: floralstreet.com.

As its name and pay-off line (“powered by flowers”) will tell you, all their fragrances have a floral focus.

Although Arizona Bloom, a Fragrance Foundation 2021 Awards finalist, is inspired by an arid landscape, it puts me in a holiday mood every time I wear it. That must be the creamy vanilla-ish Balinese coconut, with a hint of warm Madagascan black pepper, in the intro. Jasmine, fresh and honeyed, adds to the sunny vacay vibe, the sweetness tempered by a salty musk accord and oakmoss as it dries down.

Vegan Fragrances

All Floral Street packaging is reusable, recyclable or biodegradable. Vegan and cruelty-free, they’re certified by Peta. Each fragrance comes inside a pulp carton with an embossed lid, made from recyclable paper packaging and held together with a re-usable band. This eco-friendly box can be repurposed to hold keepsakes, herbal teas, jewellery or as a seed tray for plants and herbs. – Brand website.

Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn products (fragrances, candles, bath and body) are available at Woolworths.

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Hermès H24 EDT Review: Nature Meets Sensual Metal

Hermès H24 EDT

I don’t like making grand announcements, especially when we’re only half-way through the year. But it’s a pretty safe bet to declare that Hermès H24 is the most anticipated release of 2021.

It’s the French luxury goods company’s first brand-new male fragrance since the award-winning Terre d’ Hermès. That 2006 release created by Jean-Claude Ellena went onto become a modern classic. It re-affirmed the house’s reputation for top quality. So expectations of Hermès H24 are massive, to say the least.

Hermès H24 EDT

Christine Nagel succeeded Ellena as the in-house perfumer in 2016. Since then, she has produced standouts such as Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, Twilly d’Hermès and Galop d’Hermès for the brand.

For the creation of Hermès H24, the Swiss perfumer (pictured, below) wanted a blend of nature (botanicals) and technology (man-made molecules). “I had to open up other, less predictable paths, to move away from the conventional woodiness of men’s scents,” she says.

The notion of nature meeting technology is evident from the grey and lime green paper box (100% recycled and recyclable). The aerodynamically shaped glass bottle (refillable and recyclable) designed by Philippe Mouquet (he also designed the Terre d’ Hermès bottle) echoes that theme in typically elegant Hermès style.

SO WHAT DOES HERMÈS H24 SMELL LIKE?

Herbal clary sage (essence and absolute) introduces this EDT. It’s aromatic in a big way, with grassy accents, and makes its way throughout the scent.

Narcissus can be unruly and dominant at the best of times. But in Nagel’s accomplished hands, the absolute version of this floral reveals its crisp, green, slightly bitter, tobacco-ish aspects. Sustainably sourced from Peruvian producers, citrusy rosewood essence builds on the freshness of the narcissus absolute.

Hermès H24 EDT

And now for the definitive (and trickiest part) of the composition – sclarene – a molecule that brings the technological part to the equation. Metallic (in a warm and sensual way), Nagel partly chose this note due to its evocation of hot irons in the Hermès sewing workshops. It’s certainly intriguing but will not be to everyone’s liking.

Hermès H24 EDT

And perhaps that’s the point of this brave release. It’s not going to be an immediate pleaser or classic like Terre d’Hermès. In fact, it might take some time to come around to it, especially with the dominance of the clary sage. So best give it time to develop on your skin to appreciate all its facets.

Hermès H24 EDT is available at Woolworths.

 

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Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP Review: All Dressed Up (Perfume-Wise) & Nowhere To Go

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

There are rose perfumes that bludgeon you with their intensity and potency. And there are those that seduce you with their artistry and sophistication, such as Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

It’s one of the earlier releases (2004) from the London-based niche fragrance house’s Signature Collection. And perfectly captures the goal of founder Linda Pilkington (pictured below) “ to combine elements which define true elegance: the quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient”.

Image: ormondejayne.com.

That oriental mood is evident right from the start of this EDP created by Geza Schoen (pictured below), better known recently for Escentric Molecules. Honeyed saffron mingles with rosy pink peppercorns, while date oil brings delicate fruitiness to the composition.

Taif rose is the star of this scent show. Pilkington was enchanted when she visited the Saudi Arabia city. It’s famous for its rose farms which harvest well over 300 million flowers to produce the finest rose oil, according to the Saudi Tourism Authority. Schoen’s treatment of this rose is masterful, balancing its sweet depth, soft powderiness and tea-like qualities with utmost skill. The mood is accentuated by a trio of florals – freesia, jasmine and orange blossom – fresh and sweet at the same time.

Image: www.visitsaudi.com.

The drydown is equally memorable and maintains the sophisticated sweetness. The earthiness of Ugandan vanilla absolute meets the floralcy of broom and muskiness of amber.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was created for special occasions. But seeing that in these Covid third wave times, I don’t have any of those lined up any time soon, I’m being decadent wearing this beauty in my pyjamas as I type these words.

I’m super-keen to try the elixir version of this perfume, which brings Cambodian oud to the mix.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP is available from Galeries de Parfums.

 

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Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long Review: An Evocative Aquatic Without The Clichés

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

For obvious Covid reasons, travel-inspired perfumes continue to have a compelling appeal. There’s no shortage of vicarious options. But Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long has been particularly attractive to me in recent months.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

Ella K was founded by Sonia Constant in 2018. A senior perfumer at Givaudan, she has created several high-profile fragrances since the start of her career in 2006. Recent creations include Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle, Mugler Angel Nova, Tom Ford Ombré Leather and Narciso Rodriguez Musc Noir For Her.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long
SOUGHT AFTER: When not creating perfumes for her own brand, Sonia Constant produces fragrances for companies such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez and Tom Ford. Image: Ella K.

Her niche company is an outlet for her own creativity, beyond the briefs of demanding and perhaps limiting clients. It centres on the adventures of the character Ella K.

From the brand’s launch collection, Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long evokes the memory of sailing on a junk boat in the Unesco Heritage Site bay in north Vietnam (see below).

Image: Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. https://vietnam.travel

It’s the monsoon season, with water everywhere, so this EDP is an aquatic scent, but without the clichés of that genre.

That aquatic vibe comes through right at the start with floral notes of lotus (see below) and water lily. The perfumer makes the most of their fresh and airy wateriness. There’s more floralcy in the way of rich notes of cyclamen and magnolia, which bring on the sensual humidity. Apparently, there’s a note of rhubarb in the mix, but I don’t pick it up. Clean musk adds the finishing touch in the drydown.

Image: Jay Kastor / unsplash.com.

Pluie Sur Ha Long isn’t the first fragrance I’ve tried from Ella K. Like Poème de Sagano, Cri du Kalahari, Epupa mon Amour and Baiser de Florence, it translates its inspiration into luxuriant and expressive reality. And still leaves plenty to the imagination.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

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Roja Amber Aoud Parfum Review: Busy But Beautiful

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

No doubt about it, oud has been the biggest trend in fragrance for some time. Correction. It’s moved from a trend to staple in perfumery, with whole brands devoted to this most precious and tricky of ingredients (for example, Fragrance du Bois). More than most, British perfumer Roja Dove has proven adept at showcasing its multifaceted beauty with releases that include Roja Aoud Parfum, Roja Musk Aoud Parfum, Roja Sweetie Aoud Parfum and Roja Amber Aoud Parfum.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

The latter has been particularly popular. And for good reason. It shows Dove’s time in the Middle East (three years, according to the brand website) to familiarise himself with the intricacies of oud was time well spent.

This 2012 release has a similar structure to the other Roja Aouds I’ve tried – citrus opening + floral heart + dense drydown.

IMMERSIVE: Oud master Roja Dove.

There’s a brief barely noticeable citrusy-fresh opening, courtesy of notes of lemon, bergamot and lime. Voluptuous rose de mai then makes an appearance, honey-ish powderiness to the fore. Its fruitiness is accentuated by notes of fig and ylang-ylang.

As always with Roja fragrances, there’s a lot going on in the drydown, with 11 officially listed notes. The oud in question is rich, smooth and slightly animalic, but without the skank. It’s fleshed out with the sweetness of spicy cinnamon and leathery saffron.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is everything you want a premium oud to be: authentic, warm, cosy and extravagant. With the prominence given to the queen of florals, perhaps it would have been more accurate to call it “Rose Aoud”. But there are already umpteen variations on that theme and Dove has created an exclusive Roja Taif Aoud for Fortnum & Mason. I quibble…

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

Although a tad too sweet for me, the hype around Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is justified. At R12 300 (over $850 / £600 / €700) for 100ml, it doesn’t come cheap. But then it is competing in what I call the league of “super-ouds” (for example, Frédéric Malle The Night and Fragrance du Bois Sahraa).

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Diptyque Orphéon Review: Is It Another Classic-In-The-Making?

Diptyque Orphéon

This year sees Diptyque marking its 60th anniversary. The Paris-based niche brand which started out as a bazaar at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain has a lot to celebrate. Since its founding in 1961 by theatre director and set designer Yves Coueslant, painter Desmond Knox-Leet and interior designer Christiane Gautrot, many of its perfumes and candles have become classics. As part of the festivities, Diptyque Orphéon was released earlier this year.

CREATIVE TRIO: Diptyque co-founders Yves Coueslant, Christiane Gautrot and Desmond Knox-Leet. Image: Diptyque.

Diptyque Eau Rihla EDP has also just been released, but is exclusive to the Middle East market.

Paying homage to the company’s heritage, Diptyque Orphéon takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.

This EDP opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.

Diptyque Orphéon

With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. Especially, as I haven’t seen the inside of a drinking spot for quite some time, thanks to Covid. But perhaps I’m being too literal and vicarious in this expectation.

It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s growing on me the more I wear it.

Diptyque Orphéon

On a side note, it’s interesting to see Diptyque becoming more of a lifestyle brand as part of the celebrations. New ranges include pyjamas with prints inspired by some of their best-selling fragrances (Philosykos, Ombre, Do Son, L’Eau, Eau Rose) and decor items such as tumblers, plates and placemats (see below). All of which make sense, considering Diptyque’s artistic and bazaar heritage.

Diptyque Orphéon is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Image: Diptyque.
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Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites: Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso Di Toscana EDT + L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP + Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga EDP + Amouage Jubilation Man XXV EDP + L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup EDT

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.

While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.

“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”

This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.

Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT

This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.

An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP 

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP

Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.

Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP

Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.

I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.

Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.