Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP Review

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

With the enigmatic and visionary Rei Kawakubo as creative director of the Paris-based fashion brand (she would never call her creations “fashion”), Comme des Garçons fragrances could never be ordinary. The eponymous EDP (pictured, below) established the company’s unconventional approach to perfumery in a big and spicy way in 1994. More than twenty-five years later, Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP arrived on the market.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

Both designer and niche, the company has had its fair share of ups and downs over the decades. This is to be expected when releases range from the downright anti-perfumes such as Series 6: Synthetic Garage EDT (2004), with its kerosene smell, to the more approachable Floriental EDP (2015).

Does Comme des Garçons Rouge live up to the brand’s creative and innovative reputation?

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE PERFUMER

Born and raised in Grasse, France, the award-winning Nathalie Gracia-Cetto (pictured, above) has earned praise for her designer and niche creations. These include Fragrance du Bois Oud Jaune Intense Parfum (2013), Ex Nihilo Love Shot EDP (2016), Tom Ford Soleil Blanc EDP (2016), Rochas Moustache EDP (2018) and Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky EDT (2018).

The pharmacology graduate also created Radish Vetiver EDP for Comme des Garçons’ Clash Collection in 2019, so is familiar with their aesthetic.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

SO WHAT DOES COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE SMELL LIKE?

Beetroot! Yep, the root vegetable stands out in the opening and pretty much throughout the scent’s progression. Its innate earthiness is given a spicy, rosy, slightly sweet twist with a pink peppercorn note. There’s more spice from zesty ginger. Its freshness is enhanced by the Egyptian geranium leaves, with their minty and gently metallic profile.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

The intrigue doesn’t stop there. Incense makes its presence felt, without being overpowering. Its resinous smoke is complemented by the muskiness of patchouli and cistus.

There’s no shortage of fragrances with the word “rouge” in it and packaging to match. But Comme des Garçons Rouge is not just another marketing gimmick and proves the brand has not lost its edge.

While the beetroot is prominent, it’s treated and blended in such a clever way, there’s a good chance, you could love this fragrance even if you normally hate eating the vegetable.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

If you’re looking for something different, but not outrageously experimental, this scent achieves a fine balancing act of pleasing long-time Comme des Garçons fans, while not alienating potential new devotees.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Chopard Fragrances Overview: Love Chopard EDP + Black Incense Malaki EDP + Oud Malaki EDP + Happy Chopard Collection

Chopard Fragrances

Chopard fragrances were recently launched in South Africa, and I was fortunate to be on the receiving end of several of their releases. While I’m familiar with the olfactory offerings from other luxury jewellery and watch brands (for example, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Cartier), it’s my first time with Chopard.

Image: chopard.com.

The Swiss company founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard (pictured,  above) in 1860 has been in the fragrance biz since the 1980s. Earlier classic releases, Chopard Happy Diamonds (1986) and Chopard Casmir (1992), have been discontinued. But judging from the perfumes I received, the company has more than enough quality current scents to go around.

Image: Fragrantica.

“Sustainability” is often just a corporate buzzword, but from the admirably detailed product info, Chopard seems to be doing more than most to ensure their fragrances meet their “do good, feel good” philosophy. The brand emphasises its commitment to responsibly and ethically sourced ingredients (many of them naturals) from certified partners.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included after the name of the fragrance in this Chopard overview.

JOIE DE VIVRE: Julia Roberts is the face of the Chopard Happy Diamonds Collection. Image: chopard.com.

CHOPARD LOVE CHOPARD EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Another day, another rose perfume… Not quite. While this recent (2020) release is a take on the queen of florals, it’s sufficiently different and multifaceted enough to stand out in the crowded category.

Chopard Fragrances

Billed as the company’s glamorous tribute to roses à la the Cannes Film Festival Red Carpet (Chopard is an official partner of the event), it’s roses from top to bottom. Various essences were used to create this EDP, including Turkish rose infusion, Bulgarian rose oil, Moroccan centifolia rose absolute and rose damascena absolute from Turkey.

Image: chopard.com.

It starts out fresh and dewy, with hints of pink pepper and cinnamon in the background. Bravo to the brand for admitting to the use of the synthetic rose molecule Roseolate, with its fruity nuances. It gets spicier and warmer as the fragrance progresses, with notes of jasmine sambac and orange blossom adding to the richness. There’s a lot going on in the gourmand drydown, in which earthy patchouli meets notes of honey, cacao and vanilla.

The result? Sweet, over-the-top sophistication. And I mean that in a good way.

Chopard Fragrances

CHOPARD BLACK INCENSE MALAKI EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Wowzers! Inspired by the ancient tradition of royal frankincense, the most recent addition to the brand’s Middle East-inspired Malaki Collection (2020) is standout stuff. Some people might even use the dreaded phrase, “niche quality”, to describe it.

The fresh aromatics of lavandin oil from France is distinctive among the various spices of the opening. There’s then plenty more spice of the smoky and resinous frankincense kind, courtesy of the essential oil sourced from family-owned company Neo Botanika in Somaliland.

Chopard Fragrances

Perfume geek alert! It’s given a leather-licious feel thanks to “a pyrogenation process [which] sublimates the original note”, according to Firmenich. I’m not quite sure what that means, but the effect is intoxicatingly dark and potent. The dense drydown sees Indonesian patchouli taking the lead, with its earthy and musky properties.

Alberto Morillas (pictured, below) might be the most prolific perfumer in the biz, but he has not lost his touch.

Image: Firmenich.

CHOPARD OUD MALAKI EDP (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

From Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower EDP and Mugler Alien EDP to Elie Saab Girl of Now EDP and YSL Y EDP, Dominique Ropion (pictured, below) gets the balance between creative and commercial success just right. This 2012 release from the Malaki Collection exemplifies this approach. Let’s get the obvious out of the way first. At the price, this is definitely not a “real” oud, but Ropion masterfully creates a damn fine approximation.

Chopard Fragrances

Featuring notes of grapefruit, lavender and artemisia, the opening is brisk and fresh. The temperature increases with a combo of caramel-y tobacco and spice. The synthetic oud is quality stuff and captures the warm and sweet muskiness of the precious ingredient in an accessible style. It’s accentuated by synthetic ambergris and wood notes.

Don’t let all this talk of synthetics – the backbone of modern perfumery – put you off this EDP. They’re used in the right way, so you wouldn’t even know the difference.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY CHOPARD LEMON DUCLI EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

The Happy Chopard Collection was launched in 2018 and takes its cue from the scientific research on the link between feel-good scents and their influence on mood. Although not marketed as such, it has a younger feel than the other Chopard ranges, but has broad appeal. Lemon Dulci is my favourite from the line.

Chopard Fragrances

The opening is all uplifting citrus freshness, with bergamot, mandarin and, in particular, primofiore lemon essences from southern Italy on show. Shiso leaves and mint add a zesty green element, while notes of orange flower water and apple bring a delicate sweetness to the composition.

It’s the perfect choice when I’m moody AF.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY DAYS: Dora Baghriche created the Happy Chopard Collection. Image: Firmenich.

HAPPY CHOPARD FELICIA ROSES EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

Gosh, isn’t this 2018 release pretty, although I didn’t notice it at first after the flamboyance of Love Chopard!

The rose nuances of the notes of pink pepper and raspberry extract are played up in the intro, while pink grapefruit essential oil brings an element of citrus crispness. Notes of Bulgarian rose bud and absolute create a fresh and dewy ambience, with blackcurrant bud absolute adding to the greenery. The drydown is gently woody, with cedarwood essential oil from Alaska, of all places, mingling with the vanilla tones of Brazilian tonka bean.

It all adds up to produce a perfume that’s beautifully natural smelling. Probably all those natural essences.

Chopard Fragrances

HAPPY CHOPARD BIGARADIA EDP (DORA BAGHRICHE)

The bigarade (or bitter orange) tree has a special place in perfumery. Apart from its fruit, its blossoms, leaves and twigs are steam distilled to produce neroli and petitgrain respectively. This 2018 release makes the most of it in a warm and sunny way.

Chopard Fragrances

It opens with the freshness of bitter orange, neroli and petitgrain oils. The effect is uplifting in a tart and green manner. A carrot note adds an element of powderiness. The sun keeps on shining and the composition gets sweeter with the appearance of orange blossom water, Chinese sambac jasmine and honey from Provence. After all that lightness, it’s the turn of Indonesian patchouli and cistus labdanum to bring earthy depth to the composition.

This is immensely likeable stuff!

Chopard fragrances are available in South Africa at Edgars and Truworths.

 

 

 

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Vegan Fragrances 101: Ellis Brooklyn Myth EDP + Floral Street Arizona Bloom EDP Reviews

Vegan Fragrances

A walk down the aisles of your local supermarket will confirm that veganism (and a part- or full-time commitment to a plant-based diet) is now completely mainstream. So it was just a matter of time before vegan fragrances became a thing.

Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.

“Vegan fragrances contain no animal-derived ingredients whatsoever, including beeswax or honey, and are not tested on animals.”

Two brands – Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn – were recently launched in South Africa. Both focus on vegan fragrances for those who’re increasingly concerned about the ethical and environmental consequences of their consumption.

Vegan Fragrances

Personally, I have no issue with the use of beeswax or honey when they are sourced responsibly and sustainably. And I would gladly wear a perfume containing ambergris, the precious ingredient secreted by sperm whales. It becomes a bit murkier with the use of animalic notes like civet, which were at one stage an integral part of classics such as Chanel Coco, Danu Tabu and YSL Kouros.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: woolworths.co.za.

I did a bit of quick research and discovered that leading South African retailer Woolworths has an extensive selection of vegan fragrances in its WBeauty range. According to Totally Vegan Buzz, vegan-friendly brands include Lush, Le Labo, Clean, Stella McCartney, Gallivant and Eden. I also noticed that in its marketing for cK Everyone, Calvin Klein gives a lot of attention to its vegan formula.

Vegan Fragrances

Two things to note:

  • If vegan fragrances are important to you, do your homework regarding the legitimacy of a brand’s claims. For example, have they been certified by an organisation such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta)?
  • Just because a brand isn’t vegan doesn’t mean it condones cruelty to animals.

And now onto the reviews of these two vegan fragrances that have recently caught my nose.

ELLIS BROOKLYN MYTH EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

This NYC-based company was founded by New York Times beauty columnist Bee Shapiro (pictured, below) in 2015 after she gave birth to her first child and became serious about “clean” beauty.

Vegan Fragrances

Myth was part of the brand’s launch range and it’s easy to understand why it’s one of their best sellers.

It opens with a silky-sleek waft of powdery ambrette, the naturally derived musk, supported by notes of green cassis and crisp bergamot. The trio of florals that follows – tiger orchid, pink lotus, jasmine petals – is pretty indeed, in an airy, fresh and delicately sweet style. The drydown is sensually soft, with notes of white musk, patchouli and white cedar.

This eminently likeable scent is compliment-bait, if that’s a part of your purchasing decision. But most importantly, it’s got the feel-good factor in abundance.

Vegan Fragrances

All Ellis Brooklyn fragrances are paraben-, phthalates- and cruelty-free, and Peta–certified vegan. They come in glass bottles from an Ecocert supplier and the Bakelite caps are made without the use of petroleum or its byproducts. – Brand website.

FLORAL STREET ARIZONA BLOOM EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

The founder of this British brand, Michelle Feeney (pictured, below) , comes with major credentials. Before launching her company in 2017, she worked in senior roles for La Mer, MAC Cosmetics and St Tropez, among others.

Vegan Fragrances

Image: floralstreet.com.

As its name and pay-off line (“powered by flowers”) will tell you, all their fragrances have a floral focus.

Although Arizona Bloom, a Fragrance Foundation 2021 Awards finalist, is inspired by an arid landscape, it puts me in a holiday mood every time I wear it. That must be the creamy vanilla-ish Balinese coconut, with a hint of warm Madagascan black pepper, in the intro. Jasmine, fresh and honeyed, adds to the sunny vacay vibe, the sweetness tempered by a salty musk accord and oakmoss as it dries down.

Vegan Fragrances

All Floral Street packaging is reusable, recyclable or biodegradable. Vegan and cruelty-free, they’re certified by Peta. Each fragrance comes inside a pulp carton with an embossed lid, made from recyclable paper packaging and held together with a re-usable band. This eco-friendly box can be repurposed to hold keepsakes, herbal teas, jewellery or as a seed tray for plants and herbs. – Brand website.

Floral Street and Ellis Brooklyn products (fragrances, candles, bath and body) are available at Woolworths.

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Hermès H24 EDT Review: Nature Meets Sensual Metal

Hermès H24 EDT

I don’t like making grand announcements, especially when we’re only half-way through the year. But it’s a pretty safe bet to declare that Hermès H24 is the most anticipated release of 2021.

It’s the French luxury goods company’s first brand-new male fragrance since the award-winning Terre d’ Hermès. That 2006 release created by Jean-Claude Ellena went onto become a modern classic. It re-affirmed the house’s reputation for top quality. So expectations of Hermès H24 are massive, to say the least.

Hermès H24 EDT

Christine Nagel succeeded Ellena as the in-house perfumer in 2016. Since then, she has produced standouts such as Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, Twilly d’Hermès and Galop d’Hermès for the brand.

For the creation of Hermès H24, the Swiss perfumer (pictured, below) wanted a blend of nature (botanicals) and technology (man-made molecules). “I had to open up other, less predictable paths, to move away from the conventional woodiness of men’s scents,” she says.

The notion of nature meeting technology is evident from the grey and lime green paper box (100% recycled and recyclable). The aerodynamically shaped glass bottle (refillable and recyclable) designed by Philippe Mouquet (he also designed the Terre d’ Hermès bottle) echoes that theme in typically elegant Hermès style.

SO WHAT DOES HERMÈS H24 SMELL LIKE?

Herbal clary sage (essence and absolute) introduces this EDT. It’s aromatic in a big way, with grassy accents, and makes its way throughout the scent.

Narcissus can be unruly and dominant at the best of times. But in Nagel’s accomplished hands, the absolute version of this floral reveals its crisp, green, slightly bitter, tobacco-ish aspects. Sustainably sourced from Peruvian producers, citrusy rosewood essence builds on the freshness of the narcissus absolute.

Hermès H24 EDT

And now for the definitive (and trickiest part) of the composition – sclarene – a molecule that brings the technological part to the equation. Metallic (in a warm and sensual way), Nagel partly chose this note due to its evocation of hot irons in the Hermès sewing workshops. It’s certainly intriguing but will not be to everyone’s liking.

Hermès H24 EDT

And perhaps that’s the point of this brave release. It’s not going to be an immediate pleaser or classic like Terre d’Hermès. In fact, it might take some time to come around to it, especially with the dominance of the clary sage. So best give it time to develop on your skin to appreciate all its facets.

Hermès H24 EDT is available at Woolworths.

 

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Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP Review: All Dressed Up (Perfume-Wise) & Nowhere To Go

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

There are rose perfumes that bludgeon you with their intensity and potency. And there are those that seduce you with their artistry and sophistication, such as Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if EDP

It’s one of the earlier releases (2004) from the London-based niche fragrance house’s Signature Collection. And perfectly captures the goal of founder Linda Pilkington (pictured below) “ to combine elements which define true elegance: the quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient”.

Image: ormondejayne.com.

That oriental mood is evident right from the start of this EDP created by Geza Schoen (pictured below), better known recently for Escentric Molecules. Honeyed saffron mingles with rosy pink peppercorns, while date oil brings delicate fruitiness to the composition.

Taif rose is the star of this scent show. Pilkington was enchanted when she visited the Saudi Arabia city. It’s famous for its rose farms which harvest well over 300 million flowers to produce the finest rose oil, according to the Saudi Tourism Authority. Schoen’s treatment of this rose is masterful, balancing its sweet depth, soft powderiness and tea-like qualities with utmost skill. The mood is accentuated by a trio of florals – freesia, jasmine and orange blossom – fresh and sweet at the same time.

Image: www.visitsaudi.com.

The drydown is equally memorable and maintains the sophisticated sweetness. The earthiness of Ugandan vanilla absolute meets the floralcy of broom and muskiness of amber.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if was created for special occasions. But seeing that in these Covid third wave times, I don’t have any of those lined up any time soon, I’m being decadent wearing this beauty in my pyjamas as I type these words.

I’m super-keen to try the elixir version of this perfume, which brings Cambodian oud to the mix.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if EDP is available from Galeries de Parfums.

 

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Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long Review: An Evocative Aquatic Without The Clichés

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

For obvious Covid reasons, travel-inspired perfumes continue to have a compelling appeal. There’s no shortage of vicarious options. But Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long has been particularly attractive to me in recent months.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

Ella K was founded by Sonia Constant in 2018. A senior perfumer at Givaudan, she has created several high-profile fragrances since the start of her career in 2006. Recent creations include Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle, Mugler Angel Nova, Tom Ford Ombré Leather and Narciso Rodriguez Musc Noir For Her.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

SOUGHT AFTER: When not creating perfumes for her own brand, Sonia Constant produces fragrances for companies such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez and Tom Ford. Image: Ella K.

Her niche company is an outlet for her own creativity, beyond the briefs of demanding and perhaps limiting clients. It centres on the adventures of the character Ella K.

From the brand’s launch collection, Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long evokes the memory of sailing on a junk boat in the Unesco Heritage Site bay in north Vietnam (see below).

Image: Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. https://vietnam.travel

It’s the monsoon season, with water everywhere, so this EDP is an aquatic scent, but without the clichés of that genre.

That aquatic vibe comes through right at the start with floral notes of lotus (see below) and water lily. The perfumer makes the most of their fresh and airy wateriness. There’s more floralcy in the way of rich notes of cyclamen and magnolia, which bring on the sensual humidity. Apparently, there’s a note of rhubarb in the mix, but I don’t pick it up. Clean musk adds the finishing touch in the drydown.

Image: Jay Kastor / unsplash.com.

Pluie Sur Ha Long isn’t the first fragrance I’ve tried from Ella K. Like Poème de Sagano, Cri du Kalahari, Epupa mon Amour and Baiser de Florence, it translates its inspiration into luxuriant and expressive reality. And still leaves plenty to the imagination.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Ella K Pluie Sur Ha Long

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Roja Amber Aoud Parfum Review: Busy But Beautiful

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

No doubt about it, oud has been the biggest trend in fragrance for some time. Correction. It’s moved from a trend to staple in perfumery, with whole brands devoted to this most precious and tricky of ingredients (for example, Fragrance du Bois). More than most, British perfumer Roja Dove has proven adept at showcasing its multifaceted beauty with releases that include Roja Aoud Parfum, Roja Musk Aoud Parfum, Roja Sweetie Aoud Parfum and Roja Amber Aoud Parfum.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

The latter has been particularly popular. And for good reason. It shows Dove’s time in the Middle East (three years, according to the brand website) to familiarise himself with the intricacies of oud was time well spent.

This 2012 release has a similar structure to the other Roja Aouds I’ve tried – citrus opening + floral heart + dense drydown.

IMMERSIVE: Oud master Roja Dove.

There’s a brief barely noticeable citrusy-fresh opening, courtesy of notes of lemon, bergamot and lime. Voluptuous rose de mai then makes an appearance, honey-ish powderiness to the fore. Its fruitiness is accentuated by notes of fig and ylang-ylang.

As always with Roja fragrances, there’s a lot going on in the drydown, with 11 officially listed notes. The oud in question is rich, smooth and slightly animalic, but without the skank. It’s fleshed out with the sweetness of spicy cinnamon and leathery saffron.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is everything you want a premium oud to be: authentic, warm, cosy and extravagant. With the prominence given to the queen of florals, perhaps it would have been more accurate to call it “Rose Aoud”. But there are already umpteen variations on that theme and Dove has created an exclusive Roja Taif Aoud for Fortnum & Mason. I quibble…

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

Although a tad too sweet for me, the hype around Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is justified. At R12 300 (over $850 / £600 / €700) for 100ml, it doesn’t come cheap. But then it is competing in what I call the league of “super-ouds” (for example, Frédéric Malle The Night and Fragrance du Bois Sahraa).

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Diptyque Orphéon Review: Is It Another Classic-In-The-Making?

Diptyque Orphéon

This year sees Diptyque marking its 60th anniversary. The Paris-based niche brand which started out as a bazaar at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain has a lot to celebrate. Since its founding in 1961 by theatre director and set designer Yves Coueslant, painter Desmond Knox-Leet and interior designer Christiane Gautrot, many of its perfumes and candles have become classics. As part of the festivities, Diptyque Orphéon was released earlier this year.

CREATIVE TRIO: Diptyque co-founders Yves Coueslant, Christiane Gautrot and Desmond Knox-Leet. Image: Diptyque.

Diptyque Eau Rihla EDP has also just been released, but is exclusive to the Middle East market.

Paying homage to the company’s heritage, Diptyque Orphéon takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.

This EDP opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.

Diptyque Orphéon

With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. Especially, as I haven’t seen the inside of a drinking spot for quite some time, thanks to Covid. But perhaps I’m being too literal and vicarious in this expectation.

It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s growing on me the more I wear it.

Diptyque Orphéon

On a side note, it’s interesting to see Diptyque becoming more of a lifestyle brand as part of the celebrations. New ranges include pyjamas with prints inspired by some of their best-selling fragrances (Philosykos, Ombre, Do Son, L’Eau, Eau Rose) and decor items such as tumblers, plates and placemats (see below). All of which make sense, considering Diptyque’s artistic and bazaar heritage.

Diptyque Orphéon is available at Skins Cosmetics.

Image: Diptyque.

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Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites: Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso Di Toscana EDT + L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis EDP + Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga EDP + Amouage Jubilation Man XXV EDP + L’Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup EDT

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

There are many contemporary perfumers to admire. But then there are the few whose creativity and craftsmanship over the years has elevated them to another rarefied realm altogether. When I think of these exceptional creators, Bertrand Duchaufour always comes to mind. Hence the subject of this post, Bertrand Duchaufour favourites. You can read my 2017 interview with him here.

While the perfumer is prolific (220+ creations since his emergence in the 1990s, according to Fragrantica), you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs. His clients over the years have included Comme des Garçons, Olfactive Studio, Neela Vermeire Creations, The Different Company and Penhaligon’s. It’s tricky to define the Frenchman’s style, as he’s so versatile. But his creations always captivate with their depth and character. And he’s the master of contrasts.

“While the perfumer is prolific, you could never accuse him of churning ’em out to meet briefs.”

This selection of current Bertrand Duchaufour favourites is just that. It’s not a definitive list by any means. But they all reflect his skills as a perfumer par excellence.

Do you have any Bertrand Duchaufour favourites?

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT

This must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo collection.

An Italian take on the fougère, this 2005 release opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. And I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed. Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted effect.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR NOIR EXQUIS EDP 

Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release from the niche industry pioneer.

Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout. Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

MAISON CRIVELLI CITRUS BATIKANGA EDP

Thibaud Crivelli, the founder of Maison Crivelli, always works with perfumers he admires and collaborating with Bertrand Duchaufour on this 2019 release was an inspired choice.

Taking its cue from the experience of drinking a citrus cocktail in a colourful tropical market, it begins with the tart citrus tones of bergamot and bigarade orange. That refreshing vibe quickly transitions to sultry heat in the form of chilli that mingles with notes of myrrh, its spicy characteristics pushed to the max, and earthy vetiver. Wonderfully evocative stuff!

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

AMOUAGE JUBILATION MAN XXV EDP

Launched in 2008, Amouage Jubilation Man XXV is one of the Oman-based niche fragrance house’s top sellers for good reason. With a whopping 23 officially listed notes, it displays all of Bertrand Duchaufour’s skills at their complex best.

I would be lying if I said I could pick up most of these at any given time, but I do detect different things each time I wear it. And that’s part of its undeniable beauty.

Mostly, though, there’s the fruitiness of blackberry and olibanum in the intro. And then the warm waft of perfectly balanced spice (coriander, cinnamon and clove) sweetened by a dollop of honey. The soft sweetness (Duchaufour doesn’t do the in-your-face icky variety) continues through to the drydown, where opoponax is partnered with the rich earthiness of patchouli and oud. The result is superbly sophisticated.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÉCHANT LOUP EDT

I’ve included two L’Artisan Parfumeurs in this post because some of Bertrand Duchaufour’s best work has been for the Paris-based brand. As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, he created beauties such as Timbuktu (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse and Dzongkha.

Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods. At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it.

Bertrand Duchaufour Favourites

All these Bertrand Duchauour favourites are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT: 40 Years Of The Loud & Proud 80s Icon

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

I recently posted about some much-needed cheerful cheapies. I deliberately left Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT off that list. With its 40th anniversary this year, it warrants a post all of its own.

It was the launch fragrance from the designer fashion boutique that was originally founded in the 1960s and that put LA’s Rodeo Drive on the luxe shopping map . The store’s owner Fred Hayman launched Giorgio Beverly Hills in 1981 with a mega-bash suitable for the so-called “decade of excess”. Echoing the awning outside the store, the yellow-and-white box proclaimed the boldness of the scent in no uncertain terms.

From the first spray, with its flourish of sweet orange blossom and peach, and even in its current formulation, this Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious. In a very 80s way. Apparently, it was even banned from restaurants at the time due to its overpowering style. Which just adds to its allure. For me, anyway.

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT is really about its flamboyant florals, with tuberose, gardenia and jasmine leading the opulent white florals charge. Ylang-ylang also makes a fruity appearance. The overall effect is wonderfully optimistic and uplifting.

“This Bob Aliano creation is unapologetically big. Some might even say it’s brash and ostentatious.”

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT

This generous fragrance keeps giving till the end. There’s a lot happening in the drydown. But I can pick out a pleasurable blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla and sandalwood notes.

Four decades and several changes in ownership later, my sources at Elizabeth Arden (which now has the licence for the brand) tell me there’s nothing special planned for the anniversary in the way of limited editions, etc.

That suits me fine, as long as Giorgio Beverly Hills is available at my local pharmacy on the budget shelves for the price of R550 or so (the equivalent of less than $40).

Giorgio Beverly Hills EDT