Category: FRAGRANCE REVIEWS

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Initio Oud For Greatness EDP Review

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP

Initio was doing quite nicely, thank you, with releases such as Absolute Aphrodisiac (2015), Side Effect (2016) and Psychedelic Love (2017). And then in 2018 – boom! – the French brand launched Initio Oud for Greatness EDP.

I’m not exaggerating when I say this EDP has become hugely popular, joining the ranks of Creed Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 and Parfums de Marly Herod as exemplars of niche excellence to its many fans. I’m told that niche retailer Skins Cosmetics can’t keep up with the demand for it.

At the same time, this law of perfumery – What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down (that is, the more successful a fragrance becomes, the more it’s trashed online) – came into effect.

So I’m cutting through the OTT hype and nasty negativity to bring you the Fragroom review of Initio Oud for Greatness.

PERFUMER

Despite repeated attempts to get this info from the brand and online research, nada. I expect niche companies to be more transparent with this stuff, but moving on…

SO WHAT DOES INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS SMELL LIKE?

This release from the brand’s Black Gold Project Collection gets going in bold style with a big dose of saffron. Its leathery qualities are supported by the clean aromatics of lavender and earthiness of nutmeg. The effect is fresh ’n spicy, with an emphasis on the latter.

 

It doesn’t take long for the oud to come through. Any oud fragrance, especially a relatively pricey niche one, inevitably leads to the question: but is it real oud? The brand claims to use both natural oud wood and agar wood oil in this composition.

Depending on a number of factors (for example, the quality, where it’s from, how it’s treated, what it’s combined with), the precious ingredient can range from the overpoweringly skanky and barnyard (not for beginners) to the smoother and more refined, à la Initio Oud for Greatness.

“It’s rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation.”

Even though it’s not as “brutal” as the brand claims it to be, it’s still rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation which lasts through to the drydown.

Patchouli and musk feature here, albeit in minor assistant roles to accentuate the overall deep mood. It’s unusual for an Initio fragrance to not be musk heavy, but nothing wrong with a change in tone.

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP

It’s easy to understand why Initio Oud for Happiness is so popular. Yes, it’s not particularly complex but it’s beautifully blended in a friendly Western style. Oh, and did I mention its impressive sillage and longevity? Definitely a big part of its appeal.

Anyone looking for a potent but accessible, statement-making oud will find their joy in this release.

Initio Oud for Greatness EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. 

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Kajal Lamar EDP Review: Window On A World Of Colour

Kajal Lamar EDP

You can’t always judge a fragrance’s popularity and quality from Instagram. But in the case of Kajal Lamar EDP,  you certainly can. This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.

Kajal Lamar EDP

In the two years since its launch, this addition to the company’s Classic Collection has developed a devoted following. I take a closer look at this cult favourite and what makes it such a worthwhile purchase.

ABOUT THE PERFUMER

Mark Buxton is one of the most creative contemporary perfumers. The British perfumer made his debut in 1979 with Alain Delon Pour Homme EDT.

Kajal Lamar EDP

IMAGE: Mark Buxton Perfumes.

He created several classics for Comme des Garçons, including the Japanese brand’s fantastic eponymous debut (1994), Comme des Garçons 2 EDP (1999) and Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT (2004).

IMAGE: Comme des Garçons.

While best known for his work for niche houses (House of Sillage, Le Labo, Linari, Parfums d’Elmar, Folie à Plusieurs, among others), he’s also given his bold touch to designer scents such as Chopard Mira-Bai EDT (1998), Cartier Pasha de Cartier Fraîcheur Menthe EDT (1999), Versace V/S Homme EDT (2000), Paco Rabanne Black XS for Her EDT (2007), Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Light EDT (2008) and Van Cleef & Arpels Cologne Noire EDP (2009).

He launched his own eponymous perfume company in 2008.

SO WHAT DOES KAJAL LAMAR EDP SMELL LIKE?

It makes a statement from the get-go. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.

The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.

Kajal Lamar EDP

The enchantment continues through to the drydown with a good dose of the synthetic Ambroxan taking the lead with its smooth muskiness. The moss note is also worth mentioning, as it brings a hint of bitter earthiness to what is otherwise an uncompromisingly sweet composition.

“While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying.”

While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.

Anyone looking for a standout fruity fragrance will appreciate this beauty. Even those with an aversion to overly sweet scents could find themselves succumbing to the charms of Kajal Lamar EDP.

It’s ideal for special occasions or when you want to feel special. Mostly, though, wear it when you want a window on a world of colour.

Oh, must mention that Kajal has some of the most striking bottles on the market (the ornate octagram tops have become synonymous with it).

Kajal Lamar EDP

Lamar reflects its light inspiration through the gold hues of the beautifully designed bottle. I wouldn’t blame you for wanting to display this one prominently among your collection.

Kajal Lamar is available in South Africa at Galeries de Parfums.

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Best Tea Fragrances: A Cuppa Olfactory Inspiration

Best Tea Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two

Tea is not just one of my favourite beverages; it’s also one of my favourite fragrance genres. Before I take you through my best tea fragrances selection, a bit of background…

Best Tea Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden White Tea Mandarin Blossom EDT

The category is a relatively new one and originated with Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. Commissioned to make the Bvlgari stores smell nice, according to Chandler Burr’s fascinating book The Perfect Scent, its unexpected success (customers were snapping it up at $350 a bottle) led to it being launched as a more commercial endeavour in 1992.

Forty years later, you’ll find numerous renditions on the best tea fragrances theme. From black and white to green and red, all offer an aromatic interpretation of the nuances of the different leaves used to produce tea.

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

What are your best tea fragrances?

BVLGARI EAU PARFUMÉE AU THÉ VERT EAU DE COLOGNE (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

The Italian luxury jewellery company made a fine debut, in 1992, with Eau Parfumée (now known as Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert), a celebration of Japanese green tea.

It starts out with the fresh citrus notes of bergamot, lemon and mandarin orange. They mingle with the spices and herbs of cardamom, nutmeg and clary sage to help create a green tea accord that’s aromatic and uplifting. Hints of florals – jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, Bulgarian rose – add to the refreshing vibe.

This is a softie, so “beast moders”, please move on. Anyone else will appreciate the artistry of this trend-setter that paved the way for other scents such as Elizabeth Arden Green Tea and Kilian Bamboo Harmony.

Also look out for the brand’s other takes on the tea theme: Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc (white Himalayan tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu (oolong tea), Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir (black tea) and Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge (rooibos).

Best Tea Fragrances - Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert EDC

IMAGE: Bvlgari.

CREED SILVER MOUNTAIN WATER EDP (OLIVIER CREED)

Creed Aventus EDP may get all the hype, but this 1995 release from the Paris-based niche brand gets my vote for its versatility. Inspired by perfumer Olivier Creed’s love for skiing in the Swiss Alps, it’s quality stuff with a hefty price tag. Inspiration often doesn’t translate into reality, but this fragrance captures it so well, from the bottle to the juice.

The opening is fresh, thanks to citrus notes of bergamot, neroli and mandarin. Things really get interesting when the heart notes of green tea and blackcurrant add a green element to the fresh effect. The drydown is all sandalwood and musk.

A crisp, clean and chic affair.

IMAGE: Creed.

ELIZABETH ARDEN GREEN TEA EDT (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea celebrated its 23rd birthday last year. It’s easy to understand why this 1999 creation is still in production.

The opening is all zingy freshness, with citrus notes of lemon, orange zest and bergamot in perfect play. The freshness continues through to the heart of green tea and mint. Notes of jasmine and fennel bring light floral and spiciness to this EDT, which settles on a musky base.

It’s such an uplifting scent. And the great price just adds to the cheap thrills factor.

The brand regularly releases variations on the Green Tea theme – fig, mimosa and sakura blossom have been some of my favourites so far.

Best Tea Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

I can’t recommend this release from the pioneering French niche brand enough. Twenty-two years after its release, its beauty commands absolute respect.

From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.

Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.

Best Tea Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two EDT

WARMTH: L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea For Two is one of my favourites in this best tea fragrances selection.

KILIAN BAMBOO HARMONY EDP* (CALICE BECKER)

I tend to associate Kilian fragrances with hedonism, in the best sense of the word. So Kilian Bamboo Harmony is something of a surprising change in tone.

From the Paris-based niche brand’s The Fresh Collection, this 2012 release is every bit as peaceful as it sounds and lives up to its inspiration, “a sip of pure white tea in a bamboo forest”, in style.

The opening is all about citrus freshness, with bergamot and bigarade at the fore. Calice Becker infuses the composition with relaxing white tea leaves, while mimosa enhances the green mood. The moss note in the drydown maintains the tranquillity.

A great bedtime choice when you need a calming mist.

Best Tea Fragrances - Kilian Bamboo Harmony EDP

ELIZABETH ARDEN WHITE TEA EDT (RODRIGO FLORES-ROUX, CAROLINE SABAS & GUILLAUME FLAVIGNY)

This release from the American beauty brand was one of my best-loved fragrances from 2017.

Inspired by the simple pleasure of a cup of tea, the opening is a fresh ’n breezy blend of aquatic and mandarin notes, with musky sage in the background. The gently milky white tea accord is given powdery (iris) and herbal (maté) touches. Concluding with the warmth of musks and woods, this soft but persistent scent is a fantastic cheapie, in the style Elizabeth Arden does brilliantly.

The additions to the range – Vanilla Orchid, Wild Rose, Ginger Lily and Mandarin Blossom – also warrant your attention.

Best Tea Fragrances - Elizabeth Arden White Tea EDT

LE LABO THÉ 29 EDP* (FRANK VOELKL)

This 2015 release from the NYC-based niche house is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.

It announces itself in distinctive fashion with a trio of rich notes: fig, bergamot and bay leaf. The effect is immediately intense and compelling. It gets even darker when the earthy vetiver and tobacco-ish black tea leaves come into play.

The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!

Best Tea Fragrances - Le Labo The Noir 29 EDP

VILHELM PARFUMERIE DEAR POLLY EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Launched in 2015, Dear Polly was one of the NYC-based niche house’s debut releases and set the tone of quality for other standout releases such as Mango Skin, Basilico & Fellini and A Lilac A Day.

Candied apple meets crisp bergamot in the opening, followed by a big dose of black tea. While some might prefer their tea unsweetened and green, the sweet take on tea works rather nicely, I’m back for more.

Like any worthwhile composition, Dear Polly keeps on giving in the drydown, with oakmoss, black amber and musk creating an irresistibly cosy and sensual warmth.

Best Tea Fragrances - Vilhelm Parfumerie Dear Polly EDP

NISHANE WŪLÓNG CHÁ EXTRAIT DE PARFUM (JORGE LEE)

Cup of tea, dear? Yes please, if it’s as good as this one. This 2015 release from the Turkish niche brand’s Miniature Art Collection is fantastically refreshing from start to finish.

It gets going with the citrus-green hues of bergamot, supported by lesser notes of delicately sweetened orange and mandarin. There’s also some aromatic lemon-y freshness courtesy of litsea cubeba, the shrub native to east Asia. The oolong tea, softly fruity and green, is enhanced by honeyed fig and clean white musk in the drydown.

For a freshie, this one lasts quite a long time, but then it’s an extrait de parfum.

Best Tea Fragrances - Nishane Wulong Cha Extrait de Parfum

BERDOUES ASSAM OF INDIA EDP (JENNIFER RILEY)

The travel-inspired Collection Grands Crus from the fourth-generation, family-owned, Grasse-based Berdoues brand must be one of the most likeable ranges around. This 2015 release epitomises that appeal.

It opens with the crisp and bright citrus hues of citron from Menton (France). The black tea note evokes the famous variety that’s indigenous to Assam (India), with its full-bodied characteristics. A note of creamy Mysore (India) sandalwood completes the cosmopolitan cuppa.

There’s nothing complicated about this composition, yet it delivers plenty of seemingly effortless elegant comfort. Who could ask for more?

Best Tea Fragrances - Berdoues Assam of India EDP

HERMÈS EAU DE CITRON NOIR EAU DE COLOGNE (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Hermès’ first entry in this best tea fragrances round-up comes from the French luxury brand’s superb Cologne Collection.

The opening of this 2018 release is all about the sharp and invigorating citrus freshness of lemon and citron. It transitions with the appearance of an unusual accord, black lime – inspired by the Middle Eastern culinary tradition of sun-drying limes until they are dehydrated. Blended with black tea, it’s sour, smoky and musky. The smoky vibe is maintained in the drydown featuring guaiac wood.

A classic and timeless choice.

Best Tea Fragrances - Hermes Eau de Citron Noir EDC

MAISON CRIVELLI BOIS DATCHAÏ EDP* (DOROTHÉE PIOT)

I often associate tea with comfort and relaxation, and that’s just what I get from this 2018 release from the Paris-based niche brand that’s fast becoming one of my firm favourites.

The piquant fruitiness of blackcurrant meets the spicy warmth of cinnamon, without overpowering the smokiness of the tea with sweetness.

The woody forest inspiration of this scent comes through in the form of fresh cedar and earthy patchouli, while papyrus and guaiac wood notes provide a subtle leather undertow.

Best Tea Fragrances - Maison Crivelli Bois Datchai EDP

HERMÈS L’OMBRE DES MERVEILLES EDP (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

Even when it’s a flanker, a Hermès launch is something to look forward to. And this 2020 release is a particularly good addition to the range which was originally launched in 2004 with Hermès Eau des Merveilles.

It features just three listed notes: black tea, incense and tonka bean. Each is given space to express itself in this finely tuned composition, yet melds together to form a beautifully cohesive whole.

Rich, intense and green, the opening black tea note is definitely unsweetened and almost aniseed-y. The incense note is enchantingly smoky, albeit on the cool side of things. After that relative chill, it’s the turn of woody tonka in the drydown to bring gentle and soothing warmth.

And what of the name of this fragrance which implies different shades? Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles lives up to its moniker with contrasts of warmness and coolness, intensity and subtlety. Despite the seeming simplicity of its structure, this mysterious oriental scent reveals more with each wearing.

Best Tea Fragrances - Hermes L'Ombre des Merveilles EDP

CONTRASTS: Hermès L’Ombre des Merveilles is one of my more recent best tea fragrances.

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The 2020 addition to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

Best Tea Fragrances - Calvin Klein CK Everyone EDT

*All these best tea fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Best Powdery Fragrances: Cosy To Devastatingly Chic

Best Powdery Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP

Whether for their sensual or comforting properties, I can’t get enough of powdery perfumes, so had to stop myself from adding more to this best powdery fragrances post.

The powdery genre covers a lot of territory. Of course, there isn’t any powder in these fragrances, but they showcase notes or accords with this sensation to varying effect, from the grandma-ish (nothing wrong with a bit of nostalgia) to thoroughly modern.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP B&W

Some notes are powderier than others. On the floral side, notes of iris / orris, violet, rose and mimosa feature prominently. Musks, vanillas and amber accords can also have a powdery feel. As does the fruity note of peach.

Do you have any best powdery fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Parfums de Marly Galloway EDP

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR L’EAU D’AMBRE EXTRÊME EDP* (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)

Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release from the pioneering French niche brand will tell you all you need to know.

The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre, is a standard-setter in the amber category. Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.

The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth. Old-school glamour at its very best.

Best Powdery Fragrances - L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau d'Ambre Extreme EDP 2

CLIVE CHRISTIAN NO 1 FOR HER FEMININE EDITION EDP*
CLIVE CHRISTIAN NO 1 FOR HIM MASCULINE EDITION EDP*

My relationship with Clive Christian perfumes so far has been a turbulent one, and so it continues with this duo from 2001.
* Clive Christian No 1 Feminine Edition: My favourite of the two. A lush arrangement of fruits (plum, peach) and florals (jasmine, rose) on a creamy sandalwood base, with powder to spare. You should feel like a million bucks wearing it. At the price, you would need a million bucks to keep on wearing it.
* Clive Christian No 1 Masculine Edition EDP: Hints of spice and citrus and big florals (iris, rose) lead the way to a powdery and musky drydown, with sandalwood completing the rich oriental. Undeniably sophisticated and quality stuff, but will you want so much more for the price?

Best Powdery Fragrances - Clive Christian No 1 Masculine and Feminine Edition

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE* (PIERRE BOURDON)

It doesn’t get any better than Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, one of the launch releases from the year 2 000 that established the Paris-based niche fragrance house’s impeccable credentials.

This Pierre Bourdon creation opens with the floral luxuriance of ylang-ylang. Notes of violet and rose lay the powdery path for the headline iris. Iris can be a bit of an ice queen, but I find this take welcoming and embracing once you get to know her. There’s also an aldehydic element, but it never steals the show. It gives the composition a classic feel.

Warm and smooth sandalwood defines the drydown, with musk and tonka bean lingering sensually on the skin. What a treat!

Best Powdery Fragrances - Frederic Malle Iris Poudre EDP

LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL)

Released in 2006 as part of the NYC-based niche brand’s launch collection, this EDP is a curious beast. Labdanum (also known as cistus labdanum and rock rose) is a sticky resinous substance obtained from the leaves and stems of the plant. It gives amber fragrances depth and potency.

In the masterful hands of legendary perfumer Maurice Roucel (creator of classics such as Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP and Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur), it starts out in musky animalic-leather style, with support from notes of civet and castoreum (don’t worry, no animals were harmed here, these are synthetic versions).

It softens as it progresses towards an almost baby powder feel sweetened with vanilla and tonka bean (I wish all babies smelled this good). The powderiness keeps on coming with warm musk in the drydown.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Le Labo Labdanum 18 EDP

LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)

NYC-based niche house Le Labo established its reputation soon after its launch in 2006 with fragrances that included Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Patchouli 24 and Iris 39. Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the almost-too-popular-for-its-own-good Santal 33), Iris 39 brings a different take to one of my favourite florals.

It opens with the brief sunny spiciness of lime, ginger and cardamom. Iris is often cool and aloof, but Voelkl surrounds it with yet more warmth of the ylang-ylang kind. There’s powder aplenty with violet in support.

The drydown is big on the earthy patchouli and musky, animalic vibe (the synthetic civetone is particularly appealing here).

Best Powdery Fragrances - Le Labo Iris 39 EDP

NASOMATTO SILVER MUSK EXTRAIT DE PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

This 2007 release from the Amsterdam-based niche brand is notable for three main reasons:

1) It presents a metallic spin on the musk theme. Starting out clean and clinical, it evolves into something comforting and powdery, while maintaining the initial freshness.

2) For Alessandro Gualtieri (creator of never-ending perfumes such as Nasomatto Black Afgano and Orto Parisi Terroni), it’s a quite subtle quiet skin scent (I challenge you to say that quickly after a few beers). Good to see the maverick perfumer in a different mode.

3) It’s not for everyone. Those who “get” it will love it. Anyone else will think, “WTF! How could this be included in a best powdery fragrances post!” That’s a recommendation, by the way.

IMAGE: Nasomatto.

CREED LOVE IN BLACK EDP* (OLIVIER CREED & ERWIN CREED)

Apparently inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, this 2008 release opens with the floral powder of violet. Its freshness is amplified and given body with a note of Virginia cedar.

There’s additional powder from Florentine iris and white musk. Their cool elegance is spiced with cloves, without dominating the composition. The drydown features a combo of blackcurrant and rose, all fruity tartness.

Devastatingly chic, this EDP has an air of impenetrability about it. Think of it as a piece of perfume armour when you want to feel as inscrutable as the woman who inspired it.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Creed Love In Black EDP

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP*

The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release from the Swedish niche brand.

The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.

A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Byredo Mojave Ghost EDP

PARFUMS DE MARLY GALLOWAY EDP*

As shown by this 2014 release, the Paris-based niche brand does some of the best freshies in the biz.

The opening is all about the contrast between a burst of sparkling citruses and the warm spice of black pepper. They lead the way to a duo of sweet-ish florals: powdery iris and soapy orange blossom. A blast of white musk in the drydown keeps its clean and powdery, with support from an amber accord and sandalwood.

For a freshie, it lasts forever and a day. I wouldn’t expect anything less from the house.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Parfums de Marly Galloway EDP 2 Crop

PARFUMS DE MARLY ATHALIA EDP*

Apart from the Delina range, the female releases from the Paris-based niche brand don’t get as much attention as they should when compared to their more masculine siblings.

Delicately smoky incense meets the tart freshness of bitter orange in the opening of this 2016 release. Iris, the powdery and earthy variety, then gets support from vibrant orange blossom and the musky synthetic Cashmeran. White musk, vanilla and an amber accord prolong the powderiness in the drydown.

The result is olfactory opulence, just like its black bottle with gold accents, without being overbearing and flashy.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Parfums de Marly Athalia EDP

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ NARCISO EDP POUDRÉE (AURÉLIEN GUICHARD)

Launched in 2016, Poudrée is the second addition to the Narciso range and, as its name suggests, is all about sensual powderiness.

There’s plenty of that in the opening where Bulgarian rose mingles with fresh jasmine. It’s stylishly sweet and thoroughly addictive. All Narciso Rodriguez scents riff on musk and this one extends the powdery theme in a clean way, without ever being clinical. After all that airiness, it’s grounded in a woody drydown of cedars (black and white) and vetiver.

Bravo to perfumer Aurélien Guichard for another stellar creation!

Best Powdery Fragrances - Narciso Rodriguez Narciso EDP Poudree

MUSK THEME: Is Narciso EDP Poudrée one of your best powdery fragrances?

INITIO PSYCHEDELIC LOVE EDP*

There’s no shortage of powdery fragrances from the French niche brand – Rehab, Magnetic Blend 7, Musk Therapy – but this 2017 release from The Carnals Collection must be one of my favourites.

The opening features the rich fruity tones of ylang-ylang, with a smidgen of fresh bergamot in the background. The powder comes through in the form of heliotropin (almonds and vanilla ahoy!), hedione (intense jasmine) and rose (dusty deluxe). Mmm…

The sweet spice of myrrh and creamy sandalwood completes this semi-gourmand with full-on intentions.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Initio Psychedelic Love EDP

MAISON CRIVELLI IRIS MALIKHÂN EDP* (MARC ZINI)

A 2020 release from the Paris-based niche fragrance house, it delivers on its title note with aplomb.

The notes of mimosa and lentisque set the powdery and creamy tone respectively, while galbanum brings a hint of greenery to the composition. The combo of orris and vanilla, all silky butteriness, is amplified by a slightly animalic leather accord. The amber treatment keeps it sweet in a sophisticated way.

With gourmand-ish qualities, but not in an obvious way, it’s easy to understand why this luxurious EDP is one of the brand’s top sellers and its inclusion in this best powdery fragrances line-up.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Maison Crivelli Iris Malikhan EDP

DIPTYQUE ORPHÉON EDP*

Paying homage to the company’s heritage for its 60th anniversary, this 2021 release takes its name from a bustling bar in Saint-Germain, Paris, where Diptyque’s founders would rendezvous in the 1960s.

It opens with a big splash of aromatic juniper berries. It’s gin-ish in character, but not overly so. The jasmine that comes through soon after that helps to create a heady ambience together with the notes of cedar and tonka bean in the drydown. What stands out most in the composition is a musky and rosy powderiness.

With its bar / nightlife inspiration, I was expecting Diptyque Orphéon to be a smoky and boozier affair. But perhaps I’m being too literal. It’s a straightforward composition and while it’s not an immediate Diptyque favourite, it’s grown on me.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Diptyque Orphéon EDP

GUERLAIN INSOLENCE EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL & SYLVAINE DELACOURTE)

Originally released as an EDT in 2006 and now part of the revered French brand’s Les Légendaires Collection, this 2021 release is way more approachable and wearable than its name suggests.

There’s a mega dose of violet in the opening. The powderiness is fresh, airy and sweet. There’s more floral support from orange blossom, while berries add a rich fruity dimension. Iris adds to the powderiness in a dry and earthy way, with softly creamy vanilla and sandalwood in the drydown.

It doesn’t get prettier than this fruity-floral that’s infused with just the right amount of refined sweetness.

Best Powdery Fragrances - Guerlain Insolence EDP

*All these best powdery fragrances available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Best Patchouli Fragrances: Earthy, Spicy, Sweet, Musky & More

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Bvlgari Splendida Patchouli Tentation EDP

It’s official: patchouli fragrances are having a bit of a revival and these best patchouli fragrances cover a range of styles and budgets. The last time it was so popular was in the 1960s and 1970s when hippies and boho types wore patchouli oils, some experts claim, to disguise the smell of weed.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Maison Dior Patchouli Imperial EDP

In an interview with the UK’s Daily Mail, British perfumer Roja Dove reckons our Covid times echo the turbulence of those decades and helps explain the resurgence of patchouli. “In the 1960s and 1970s, the British and American youth were the post-World War II and Vietnam War generation. They felt politics was rotten and mother earth was where the connection mattered,” he says.

“Pogostemon cablin had a demi-monde reputation in late 19th-century France as women of ill-repute wore it.”

According to the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website, Pogostemon cablin (its scientific name) had a demi-monde reputation in late 19th-century France as women of ill-repute wore it.

A member of the mint family, the herb is native to southeast Asia, with Indonesia being the largest producer. In its natural form, the leaves are dried and fermented. They are then steam-distilled or CO2 extracted to produce a highly potent and rich essential oil with all the versatile qualities we’ve come to expect from the plant – earthy, woody, sweet, spicy, smoky, musky – depending on how it’s used.

Image: Rocky Mountain Oils.

Due to the expense involved in producing the best-quality oils and environmental concerns about over-farming, synthetics (for example, Akigalawood, pictured, below) and substitutes (for example, Clearwood) are used to produce the same effect.

Image: Givaudan.

What are your best patchouli fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the fragrance in this epic best patchouli fragrances round-up.

MUGLER A*MEN EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)

Mugler A*Men EDT was not Jacques Huclier’s first perfume, but this love-it-or-hate-it classic was the one that made his name as a multi-talented perfumer. It was also the French designer brand’s first male fragrance, launched after the tremendous success of the pioneering gourmand Mugler Angel.

Released in 1996, there was nothing like it at the time. There have been several attempts to copy it, but none have captured the uniqueness and audacity of the original with its lashings of patchouli, caramel and coffee.

The Mugler A*Men follow-ups, mostly created by Huclier and featuring varying qualities of patchouli, are one of those rare cases in which the flankers offer a new and surprising twist on the theme. I’m usually weary of hyper-sweet fragrances but will always make an exception for Mugler A*Men.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Mugler A*Men EDT

LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP* (ANNICK MENARDO)

Is this 2006 release from the NYC-based niche brand’s launch collection a leather or a patchouli scent? The company’s website even states “patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula”.

There’s certainly no missing the mega dose of birch in it. The oil from the bark of this hardwood tree (birch tar oil) is renowned for its smoky leather properties and it gives this EDP an almost burnt quality. A hint of warm and spicy vanilla softens the harsh edges.

Yeah, but what about the patchouli? It pops up when you least expect it, earthy and medicinal, and then disappears. Intriguing, challenging stuff…

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Le Labo Patchouli 24 EDP

ORTO PARISI BRUTUS PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Amsterdam-based Orto Parisi is one of those love it or hate it niche fragrance brands. And this 2014 release created by Alessandro Gualtieri will either do it for you in abundance or not.

As usual, he gives no notes to guide the consumer. But that doesn’t stop me from picking up a large dose of rough-around-the-edges patchouli. Earthy, spicy and woody, it’s given a hint of freshness with citrus notes of bergamot and mandarin.

With its uncompromising boldness, it’s an acquired taste, so best give it time to work its charms.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Orto Parisi Brutus Parfum

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MASCULIN PLURIEL EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

While this 2014 release from the Paris-based niche brand is big on the lavender, it also features a beautifully earthy take on patchouli.

Showcasing the perfumer’s love for the fougère fragrance family, it opens with lavender absolute – the Provençal variety renowned for its smooth, slightly sweet, herbal properties. It’s given sensual depth with a leather accord and woody notes of Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli. Kurkdjian makes the most of the latter in a smoky and musky style.

It all adds up to produce a scent that’s thoroughly elegant.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Masculin Pluriel EDT

CAROLINA HERRERA NIGHTFALL PATCHOULI EDP

This fragrance has a similar-ish name to Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli (see below), but couldn’t be more different. A 2015 release from the Herrera Confidential private collection, it shows the American designer brand equally at home in haute parfumerie as it is in more commercial money-spinners.

Benzoin gives it vanilla-ish smoothness, while the patchouli is earthy and herbal in style. The extra-large helping of cinnamon is given a touch of resinous depth with cistus labdanum.

If you’re looking for sweet take on the patchouli theme, this one’s for you.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Carolina Herrera Nightfall Patchouli EDP

GOOD NIGHT: Carolina Herrera Nightfall Patchouli is probably the sweetest of these best patchouli fragrances.

YVES SAINT LAURENT TUXEDO EDP (JULIETTE KARAGUEUZOGLOU)

In 2015, the French luxury fashion brand launched its Le Vestiaire des Parfums private fragrance collection, inspired by iconic items associated with the couturier. I’d forgotten how good Tuxedo is and how like its namesake from 1966, it blends the masculine with the feminine to perfection.

The coolness of cardamom is contrasted with the warmth of black pepper to create sensual spiciness. A hint of rose, with woody accents, adds to the allure. The patchouli, smokiness on high, is paired with a musky ambergris-like accord and smooth spicy vanilla in the drydown.

Devastatingly chic and sexy, it’s one of the best YSL releases in recent years and well worth the extra expense compared to its more mainstream releases.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo EDP

SUITS YOU: Is YSL Tuxedo one of your best patchouli fragrances?

CHANEL COROMANDEL EDP (JACQUES POLGE & CHRISTOPHER SHELDRAKE)

From the French luxury brand’s Les Exclusifs de Chanel Collection, this 2016 release is inspired by Coco’s love for Chinese Coromandel lacquered screens, which decorated her Paris apartment. From top to bottom, it presents an enchantingly exotic take on patchouli.

The citrus opening – bitter orange and neroli – leads the way to deep and dark patchouli. It has delicious chocolate accents without entering gourmand territory. There are light floral touches (rose, orris root, jasmine) in the background. The exotic vibe is heightened with an amber accord featuring vanilla-ish benzoin and spicy frankincense.

It’s also available in a parfum concentration with added musk.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Chanel Coromandel EDP

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MOONLIGHT PATCHOULI EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Gosh, isn’t this 2016 addition to the French luxury jewellery brand’s top-quality Collection Extraordinaire a treat!

It opens with a deep and woody interpretation of patchouli spiced with the warmth of cacao. Bulgarian rose and iris contribute floral powderiness, while the drydown amplifies the sensual vibe with a combo of smooth leather and suede. There’s also a hint of fruitiness in the background.

From the above-mentioned cacao and fruity notes, it might sound like a gourmand, but Sonia Constant is too skilled a perfumer to go the obvious route. It’s also one of the best-value private range releases around.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli EDP

KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP* (PASCAL GAURIN)

The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.

This 2017 release from The Cellars Collection is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The refined sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.

One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Kilian Gold Knight EDP

BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP* (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Byredo Velvet Haze EDP

DIOR PATCHOULI IMPÉRIAL EDP (FRANÇOIS DEMACHY)

This 2018 addition to the upmarket Maison Dior range goes the oriental route.

The barely there citrus intro – mandarin orange and bergamot – quickly gives way to the warm spice of cinnamon and coriander. It comes into its own in the drydown. Patchouli, dusty and dark, is given extra oomph with smoke, an amber accord (featuring pronounced accents of benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla) and creamy sandalwood.

Although it doesn’t quite nail its inspiration – “like entering the fragrant back room of an apothecary in Asia,” according to the brand’s website – that doesn’t stop it from being beautifully mysterious and an essential addition to the best patchouli fragrances.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Maison Dior Patchouli Imperial EDP

CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO PATCHOULI NOIR EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

Before the global director of Dubai-based CPL Aromas launched his own company, Christian Provenzano Parfums, in 2018, he’d produced highly regarded work for brands such as Agent Provocateur, Jo Malone, Kilian, Penhaligon’s and Boadicea The Victorious.

Part of his launch collection, Patchouli Noir opens with red fruit and pink peppercorn notes. It’s sweet, sharp and spicy at the same time. Turkish rose and osmanthus develop the fruitiness of the intro with their floral intensity. True to the name of this scent, the patchouli is dark and earthy, with cistus labdanum and an amber accord bolstering its depth.

I’m not surprised it won the Best Niche Fragrance Award at the Pure Beauty Global Awards 2018. Patchouli Noir Intense, from the brand’s Universal Collection, is also worth sniffing out.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Christian Provenzano Patchouli Noir EDP

MONTBLANC EXPLORER EDP (JÓRDI FERNANDEZ, ANTOINE MAISONDIEU & OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this 2019 release. They were specifically chosen for their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernández ).

The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest. The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and the patchouli-like synthetic Akigalawood.

I won’t get bogged down in the debate on whether this scent is a Creed Aventus clone. I can tell you, though, it’s a highly versatile crowd-pleaser.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Montblanc Explorer EDP

BVLGARI SPLENDIDA PATCHOULI TENTATION EDP (SOPHIE LABBÉ)

The luxury Italian jewellery brand can always be relied upon to deliver seemingly effortless elegance.

This 2020 addition to their Splendida range does that with a trio of layered patchouli in the expert hands of Sophie Labbé, who also created Jasmin Noir and Tubereuse Mystique for the company.

The opening is clean and pure, thanks to patchouli oil from Flores (an Indonesian island) and softly fruity peach. The powderiness of the peach evolves with orris. The iris root is perfectly paired with patchouli at this stage for an earthy effect. The drydown displays the musky side of patchouli together with white musk.

It’s officially a female fragrance, but 100% unisex, so don’t miss out on this smooth and artful beauty.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Bvlgari Splendida Patchouli Tentation EDP

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

Let’s put aside the name, shall we? And savour this 2020 release that’s apparently inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden. You’re not the only one trying to picture it.

It’s all earthy spiciness in the opening, with notes of black pepper and turmeric grabbing the attention. Three varieties of rose – May, Turkish, Bulgarian – display the queen of florals at her most voluptuous and diverse. Rose-patchouli is a popular combo and the herb gives this scent a dirty, musky edge.

Not as wild as its name suggests (where are the prickly thorns?), it’s nevertheless beautiful stuff.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP

EX NIHILO THE HEDONIST EDP* (JORDI FERNÁNDEZ)

When I first saw the name of the latest release (2021) from the Paris-based niche brand, my mind started racing in all sorts of boozy, gourmand-ish directions.

Perhaps that’s why I didn’t click with this EDP from the Iconoclaste Collection at first. I was expecting something decadent, whereas it’s more about connecting with the joys of nature. Now that I’ve spent more time with it, I’m loving its distinctive simplicity.

It opens with fresh ‘n spicy notes of bergamot and ginger. And then gets really interesting with a large dose of Akigalawood. Perfumer Jordi Fernández maximises the spicy-musky patchouli qualities of the synthetic Givaudan captive molecule with impressive results.

A fresh rendition of vetiver and cedar closes the tight and cohesive composition with style.

Best Patchouli Fragrances - Ex Nihilo The Hedonist EDP

*All these best patchouli fragrances available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Best Byredo Fragrances: 12 Releases From The Swedish Niche Brand To Get Your Nose On

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Black Saffron EDP

A rhetorical question before I get to my best Byredo fragrances selection: is there a cooler perfume brand founder than Ben Gorham  (pictured, below)? The fine arts graduate and professional basketball player-turned-entrepreneur launched his fragrance company in Stockholm, Sweden, in 2006.

Image: Byredo.

Within a few years, Byredo secured its position as a leading niche house with straightforward yet distinctive compositions that range from the crowd-pleasing to the more daringly unusual.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Mojave Ghost EDP

Some recent releases haven’t hit the heights of earlier ones, but there’s still no shortage of best Byredo fragrances.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Byredo fragrances?

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Velvet Haze EDP

BYREDO GYPSY WATER EDP

All successful niche brands make their name with specific releases. This 2008 EDP put Byredo firmly on the fragrance map.

A celebration of Romany culture in a most romantic way, the olfactory homage begins in delicately fresh style, with notes of juniper berries, bergamot and lemon capturing the imagination. Seductive mystery wafts throughout in the form of smoky incense and aromatic pine needle notes. And then it’s time for a terrific trio of vanilla, amber and sandalwood to lay on the creaminess.

No surprises, it’s been a best-seller since its launch and remains the perfect intro to the house.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Gypsy Water EDP

BYREDO BLANCHE EDP

This 2009 release epitomises the brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.

There’s a big blast of aldehydes in the opening. Most well known for its use in Chanel No 5, this synthetic gives this EDP a fresh, soapy vibe. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.

With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Blanche EDP

BYREDO BAL D’AFRIQUE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Inspired by 1920s Paris and its obsession with African culture in all its forms, there’s something very joyful and uplifting about this 2009 release. It’s probably my favourite in this best Byredo fragrances round-up.

The tone is set from the opening, with its mix of citrus freshness (lemon, bergamot, neroli). Notes of rich marigold and black currant-ish buchu give it a truly African quality, with soft florals in the background. The smokiness of vetiver is perfectly partnered with musk and Moroccan cedarwood in the drydown.

It’s one of the sweeter vetiver fragrances on the market and holds the attention from start to finish.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Bal d'Afrique EDP

BYREDO LA TULIPE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

Who says tulips aren’t fragrant? While most varieties are indeed odourless, this 2010 release showcases the floral in spectacularly scented style.

The intro of cyclamen, freesia and rhubarb notes creates a fresh spring-like mood. The rendition of tulip builds on that freshness in a lush green, slightly spicy style. It’s impressively realistic and not sweet in the least. The vetiver in the drydown maintains the green freshness, while blonde woods (the synthetic Cashmeran) brings smooth muskiness.

One of the best in the genre, it stands out for all the right reasons.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo La Tulipe EDP

BYREDO OUD IMMORTEL EDP

Oud is regarded as one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery and this 2010 release does a fine job of approximating its appeal through skilful use of ingredients.

The intro sees the resinous spice of cardamom infused with the smoke of incense. The combination of richly floral Brazilian rosewood, smoky papyrus and earthy patchouli notes come together to create a remarkable oud-like result. Notes of oakmoss and tobacco maintain the illusion in the drydown.

The brand’s Accord Oud is also recommended, if you’re looking for a fruitier, leathery take on the theme.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Oud Immortel EDP

BYREDO BLACK SAFFRON EDP

Inspired by Ben Gorham’s heritage (his mother is Indian) and the importance of saffron in Hinduism, this 2012 release is not as abstinent as it sounds.

The leathery qualities of spicy saffron are played up in the intro, with a fresh hint of juniper berries and grapefruit in the background. A gently animalic leather accord is sweetened with a note of fruity raspberry and powdery violet, while Cashmeran brings a warm musky vibe to the composition.

If you’re in the market for a sophisticated leather fragrance, Byredo Saffron deserves a place in your collection.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Black Saffron EDP

BYREDO MOJAVE GHOST EDP

The Mojave Desert makes for surprisingly fertile inspiration in this 2014 release.

The intro features the silkiness of ambrette, the vegetal musk. Its pear-like fruitiness is partnered with the fresh sweetness of Jamaican naseberry, a tropical note that’s not used much in perfumery. The floral freshness of powdery violet and citrus-y magnolia is contrasted with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and more musk.

A softly evocative skin scent with a clean feel, it’s Byredo at its crowd-pleasing best.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Mojave Ghost EDP

BYREDO ROSE OF NO MAN’S LAND EDP

Taking its cue from the nickname given by soldiers to the courageous, life-saving nurses during the First World War, this 2015 release is the one for you if you’re looking for a gentle intro to a rose fragrance.

It opens with notes of Turkish rose petals, complemented by the rosy spiciness of pink peppercorns. The centrepiece is softly enveloping Turkish rose absolute, with the fruity-floral hues of raspberry blossom in the background.

Finished with an amber accord and the aromatic woodiness of papyrus, it’s a warm and agreeable fragrance that errs on the side of subtlety to make an impact.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Rose Of No Man's Land EDP

BYREDO BIBLIOTHÈQUE EDP

As its name suggests, this 2017 release (originally the brand’s most popular candle) is inspired by the ambience of a library featuring old leather books on wooden shelves.

It’s a well-executed concept that begins in fruity mode with sweet (but not too sweet) notes of peach and especially plum. The slight sweetness is further developed in the floral heart featuring peony. A violet note brings an earthy and powdery aspect.

A leather accord completes the EDP, with notes of patchouli and vetiver adding to the intimate feel of being immersed in a world of old books.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Bibliotheque EDP

BYREDO VELVET HAZE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

A 2017 release from the Swedish niche brand that’s not as crowd-friendly as some of its other fragrances such as Gypsy Water and Bal d’Afrique, and is all the better for it.

It debuts with the lightly tropical fruity tones of coconut water and then the patchouli – earthy, rich and perhaps too powerful for some – kicks in, in a big way. When the patchouli subsides, it’s complemented by earthy cacao and wafts of musk.

There’s something BO-ish about this scent, not in an off-putting way, more seductive…

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Velvet Haze EDP

BYREDO SLOW DANCE EDP (JÉRÔME EPINETTE)

I don’t always buy into the story of a fragrance, but the one for this 2019 release works a charm – “a rites-of-passage moment… high school clichés mingle…” – both in its inspiration and execution.

Jérôme Epinette conjures a suitably sweet and sticky experience with notes of opoponax, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli notes featuring prominently in the warm, almost candyfloss-y ambience.

I can almost feel the teachers scanning the young couples for any unacceptable behaviour as George Michael’s Careless Whisper creates a frisson among the young’uns.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Slow Dance EDP

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron.

A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental atmosphere.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

Best Byredo Fragrances - Byredo Reine de Nuit Extrait de Parfum

All of these best Byredo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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Best Recent Tom Ford Releases: From FF To Ébène Fumé

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Soleil Brûlant EDP

Best recent Tom Ford releases? Some people might grumble that there’s no such thing. That they are now more style than substance. That the designer has peaked, etc.

DARK ARTS: Tom Ford in the campaign for Tom Ford Noir. Image: Tom Ford.

Yes, there have been a few average releases in the past few years, but these are the exception rather than the norm. From this round-up of best recent Tom Ford fragrances, it’s clear the luxury brand still has much to offer and is making a lot of money for its founder’s retirement and partner, Estée Lauder Companies, in the process.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous EDP 2

Even before he founded his eponymous brand in 2006, Tom Ford was a household name. The savvy and suave businessman entered the fragrance biz in 2006, one year after the launch of his company, with the mega-hit Tom Ford Black Orchid EDP.

Image: Tom Ford.

In a pioneering move, the designer launched his more upmarket and niche-like Private Blend Collection in 2007, including classics such as Noir de Noir, Oud Wood and Tobacco Vanille.

Image: Tom Ford.

A master of provocative imagery since his stints as creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, he’s not been afraid to use the same tactics at his own house (see below). This has extended to the names of some of his recent fragrance releases: Fucking Fabulous, Lost Cherry and Rose Prick.

Image: Tom Ford.

And there’s the crux: the most controversial thing about Tom Ford fragrances now are their prices, especially those from the Private Blend line. Of course, how you price value is personal.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best recent Tom Ford releases?

Image: Tom Ford.

TOM FORD FUCKING FABULOUS EDP

Tom Ford had this to say about the attention-grabbing 2017 release (call it “FF” if the name’s too much for you): “It’s undeniably the most straightforward name for such a beautiful scent. Why make it complicated?” However, the shock value overshadowed what is an appealing leather scent.

It opens with a strong herbal dose of clary sage oil, which has leathery characteristics, with the aromatics of lavender in support. The smooth leather that follows is paired with bitter almond and vanilla, giving it a warm, almost gourmand-ish effect. The drydown keeps it sensual and gently sweet with notes of tonka bean and cashmeran.

It’s a seamless blend that’s far more comfy and cosy than its name suggests.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous EDP 1

TOM FORD FOUGÈRE PLATINE EDP (LINDA SONG & OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

With its classic masculine profile, the fougère olfactory family features often in the Tom Ford repertoire.

The opening of this 2018 release is in fresh mode, with the herbal tones of clary sage supported by notes of lavender, lemon and bergamot. Herbal artemisia is the centre of attention with its sharply green qualities. Its potency is tempered with the subtle sweetness of olibanum and honey notes as the fragrance transitions to the warm drydown, with softly spicy tobacco and woods finishing it.

It’s been discontinued but can still be found in some stores and online. Released in 2018, Tom Ford Fougère d’Argent EDP is also worth checking out.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Fougere Platine EDP

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY EDP (LOUISE TURNER)

You naughty boy! Oops, Tom Ford did it again with this 2018 release and its suggestive lost virginity name. Of course, he would never put it in such crass terms.

The intro of the 2018 release bursts with boozy black cherries enhanced with the bittersweet nuttiness of almond. The sweetness kicks in with the fruit of plum, rose and jasmine sambac notes. There’s a lot happening in the complex drydown but I can detect smooth vanilla and amber-y Peru balsam in the mix.

I can’t get enough of this gourmand with clever contrasts for grown-ups .

Image: Tom Ford.

TOM FORD OMBRÉ LEATHER EDP (SONIA CONSTANT)

Part of the Private Blend launch collection in 2007, Tuscan Leather EDP gave Tom Ford major cred in the perfume world and is a standard-bearer in the genre. In 2018, Ombré Leather (originally launched under the Private Blend Collection in 2016) confirmed the brand’s expertise in the category.

It gets going with the warm spice of cardamom. The leather is animalic in all the best ways – sensual and textured – and is given a floral dimension through the intriguing use of jasmine sambac. There’s great depth of the earthy and smoky kind, thanks to notes of vetiver, patchouli and moss, in the drydown.

Also get your nose on the powderier Ombré Leather Parfum, which was released in 2021.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Ombre Leather EDP

TOM FORD LAVENDER EXTRÊME EDP (OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

Want a big and bold lavender fragrance? Then introduce yourself to this 2019 release.

There’s a good chance you won’t notice the opening notes of lemon and violet leaf, as this EDP lays on the lavender with speed. It’s fresh, clean and aromatic, as expected, but also coolly metallic. It then gets sweeter and warmer as cinnamon is added to the mix. The spice sets the tone for the drydown, featuring an abundance of vanilla and tonka bean. Smooth, creamy and musky, they complete the composition.

A comforting and chic option.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Lavender Extreme EDP

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID PARFUM

The original EDP was released in 2006. Apart from becoming one of the best-sellers of that decade, it’s also responsible for tempting men over to the dark side of so-called “female fragrances” with its pure deliciousness. The unisex parfum version was released in 2020 and while not as busy as the original, it’s just as seductive.

It makes a gorgeously decadent statement from the start with a large helping of truffles – animalic and musky. Juicy plum brings a touch of fruity sweetness. A combo of rich boozy rum and tropical florals – ylang-ylang and orchid – leads the way to the earthy patchouli drydown.

It’s been hyped to the max but justifiably so.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Black Orchid Parfum

TOM FORD BEAU DE JOUR EDP

Originally released in 2019 as part of the Private Blend Collection, this was re-released in 2020 under the Signature Collection, making this beauty more affordable and an even more essential addition to your fragrance wardrobe.

It starts out aromatic and fresh with an overdose of lavender. The sharpness of moss and floral greenery of geranium add a layer of complexity to the composition, with hints of mint and basil in the background. It goes deeper with musky-licious patchouli and an amber accord in the drydown.

Elegance personified and with heaps of character, if this doesn’t make you feel like a dapper gentleman nothing will.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Beau de Jour EDP

TOM FORD ROSE PRICK EDP

Let’s put aside the name, shall we? And savour this 2020 release that’s apparently inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden. You’re not the only one trying to picture it.

It’s all earthy spiciness in the opening, with notes of black pepper and turmeric. Three varieties of rose – May, Turkish, Bulgarian – display the queen of florals at her most voluptuous and diverse. Rose-patchouli is a popular combo and the herb gives this scent a dirty, musky edge.

Not as wild as its name suggests (where are the prickly thorns?), it’s nevertheless beautiful stuff.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Rose Prick EDP

TOM FORD COSTA AZZURRA EDP

In the rarefied world of Tom Ford, there seem to be two recurring motifs: the glamorous red carpet and care-free European coasts. A whole sub-range of Private Blend has already been devoted to the pleasures of Amalfi and Positano in Italy.

In 2021, Costa Azzurra migrated from the Private Blend Collection to the Signature range.

It’s a classy aquatic scent that evokes the French Riviera from the outset with aromatic notes of driftwood and seaweed infused with the freshness of lemon, mandarin and lavender.

Woody notes of cypress and oak give depth to the olfactory reverie.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Costa Azzurra EDP

TOM FORD SOLEIL BRÛLANT EDP

This 2021 release feels like a posh vacay in the sun from start to finish. At the price, I wouldn’t expect anything less.

The summer mood begins in familiar fresh and spicy territory, with soft notes of pink peppercorn, mandarin and bergamot. There’s then the sweet ’n sunny heat from notes of honey and orange blossom absolute. It’s in the drydown that this scent really comes into its own. An amber accord mingles with spicy resins, while the seductive smoke of incense is accentuated by vetiver. A hint of leather adds to the pleasure-seeking ambience.

The burnt vibe of this EDP won’t appeal to everyone, so definitely try before you buy.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Soleil Brûlant EDP 2

CHOICES: Soleil Brûlant and Beau de Jour are my personal favourites in this best recent Tom Ford releases post.

TOM FORD ÉBÈNE FUMÉ EDP

I’ll forgive Tom Ford for sounding like Gwyneth Paltrow in the description for this fragrance on the brand’s website – “mindfulness meets opulence” – because this most recent addition to the TF empire is beautifully rich.

The fresh pine-ish smoke of palo santo (“holy wood” in Spanish) stands out in the opening. This wild tree that’s native to South America is burnt as incense sticks to promote emotional and spiritual purity. A leather accord is emphasised by notes of papyrus, labdanum and cade oil. The drydown is darker and resinous in character, with ebony and guaiac wood working their charms.

If you’re looking for a powerful combo of woods, leather and smoke, get your hands on this one pronto. If it makes you feel calmer at the same time, bonus.

Best Recent Tom Ford Releases - Tom Ford Ebene Fume EDP

All these best recent Tom Ford releases are available in South Africa at Woolworths.

All pics in this best recent Tom Ford releases post mine, unless stated otherwise. 

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Acqua di Parma: The Best Fragrances From The Always-Elegant Italian Brand

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Vaniglia EDP

From its founding in 1916 in Parma by Carlo Magnani, Acqua di Parma fragrances have been identifiable with all things elegantly and luxuriously Italian. Founder Signor Magnani (pictured, below) set the stylish tone by spraying a handkerchief with his debut fragrance Colonia and then slipping it into his pocket. It doesn’t get more “la dolce vita” than that.

Image: Acqua di Parma.

It wasn’t always sunny skies. Although admired by Hollywood stars such as Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn, the company had to be rescued by prominent Italian businessmen Diego Della Valle (Tod’s), Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (Ferrari) and Paolo Borgomanero (La Perla) in the 1990s.

“The fragrance lines mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme.”

Now part of the LVMH luxury group, Acqua di Parma is a thriving business with fragrance, bath, body, candle and barber ranges. The fragrance lines – Colonia, Blu Mediterraneo, Signatures of the Sun, Le Nobili and Note di Colonia – mostly feature high-quality variations on the citrus theme. All are infused with the brand’s classic and chic style.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances

There’s more to the luxury brand than Colonia. From this all-time classic to lesser-known releases, I take you through this quintessential Italian company. My only complaint about this remarkably consistent brand is that it often doesn’t divulge its perfumers.

Acqua di Parma

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA EAU DE COLOGNE

More than a century after its launch in 1916, Colonia is still one of the best sophisticated fragrances on the market. A lot of that has to do with the way this cologne conjures all sorts of images of the good life, Italian style.

It begins with a deliciously sharp-ish flourish of Sicilian citrus notes (lemon, orange, bergamot). A distinctive opening that’s impossible to resist. The heart goes into more herbal territory with lavender, verbena and rosemary notes, while Bulgarian rose enhances the overall freshness. These eventually give way to a base of subtle, yet uplifting vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli notes.

An essential part of any fragrance wardrobe.

Acqua di Parma - Acqua di Parma Colonia Eau de Cologne

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO MANDORLO DI SICILIA EDT

A gourmand-ish Acqua di Parma? And before I get carried away with myself, this is not a full-on gourmand as we know it, or even as my nose experiences it. After all, the Italian brand that’s known for its timeless scents wouldn’t indulge in such styles in a tacky manner.

Launched in 1999 and from the always-rewarding Blu Mediterraneo range, Mandorlo di Sicilia celebrates the Sicilian way of life.

Of course, it opens with sunny, citrus-centric notes, but in a subtler style than usual, while star anise introduces the “edible” factor. This EDT is headlined by softly sweet green almonds, and ylang-ylang brings floral fruitiness. The other big character in this composition is vanilla. Only the best Madagascan creaminess is partnered with musk in the drydown.

It’s all done in seemingly effortless ADP style. Superba!

ACQUA DI PARMA BLU MEDITERRANEO CIPRESSO DI TOSCANA EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

This 2005 release must be one of the most distinctive scents I’ve smelled from the Blu Mediterraneo Collection. Some might even call it “challenging”.

An Italian take on the fougère, it opens with rich notes of star anise and elemi, with the brand’s trademark citrus notes in the background. The heart is herbal and aromatic, with lavender and clary sage taking the lead. I’m sure I detect a big dose of basil, although it’s not officially listed.

Notes of cypress and pine in the drydown add to the overall multi-faceted and evocative celebration of Tuscany.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipressa di Toscana EDT

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2010 and billed as a modern interpretation of the classic original, Essenza isn’t a radical reworking, but rather a case of different emphases.

Neroli and grapefruit are more pronounced in the opening, and the aromatic aspect has been toned down slightly. This version feels fuller than the original while losing none of its uplifting freshness.

It’s seriously good stuff. Many of its fans think it’s even better than its illustrious ancestor.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza Eau de Cologne

ACQUA DI PARMA OUD EDP

This intriguing scent, with its contrasts of refreshing citrus and deep oud, was originally launched in 2012 as Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Eau de Cologne Concentrée in the Ingredient Collection. It’s now part of the Signatures of the Sun Collection.

The citrus notes of bergamot and orange are followed quickly by the oud. Warm, sensual and smooth, it’s a refined take on the theme. It’s complemented by a strong and silky leather accord. The coriander note adds a nice spicy touch. The base adds to the feeling of warmth, with the notes of cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood in perfect harmony.

You might think the combination of citrus and oud will be a total mess, but if you want a smart oud fragrance with a difference and that’s not too in your face, this is the ideal choice. Leather, from the same collection, is also superb.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Oud EDP

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA CLUB EAU DE COLOGNE

Launched in 2015, Club is the most barbershop-ish of all the Colonia flankers so far.

There’s plenty of sunny citrus in the opening, including bergamot, neroli and Sicilian lemon notes. But what really stands out is the mint. Cool and fresh, it gives this scent a green profile.

A note of galbanum brings pleasing sharpness to the mix, while lavender and vetiver keep it green and clean.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Colonia Club Eau de Cologne

ACQUA DI PARMA PEONIA NOBILE EDP

I wouldn’t have said peony is one of my favourite notes. Until I came across Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile. It’s from the brand’s Le Nobili Collection, which also includes highly recommended Rose and Magnolia perfumes.

Launched in 2016, it opens with the fruity rosiness of raspberry spiced with black pepper. It’s unusual for an ADP not to open with citrus notes. But there’s lots of freshness to go around in the form of peony, Turkish rose and freesia notes. Clean musk and an amber accord complete this floral-fantastic scent that’s sweet in a sophisticated way.

Look out for Iris Nobile EDP, which was unfortunately discontinued.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Peonia Nobile EDP

ACQUA DI PARMA NOTE DI COLONIA I EAU DE COLOGNE

This 2016 release is from the lesser-known Note di Colonia range, which is inspired by various Italian operas.

A celebration of Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata opera, it starts off in recognisable Acqua di Parma territory with citrus notes of bergamot and neroli. Florals come through next, with notes of damask rose and violet bringing powderiness, while lavender adds a touch of aromatic appeal. Classic woodiness is provided by the notes of cedar and patchouli in the drydown. There’s a slight bitterness throughout this scent, which gives it complexity.

Yes, it’s more expensive than the average Acqua di Parma, but the quality is top-notch, plus it comes in a 150ml bottle.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Note di Colonia I Eau de Cologne

ACQUA DI PARMA VANIGLIA EDP

Vanilla fragrances are all too often icky-sweet, reminding one of cheap candles. But Acqua di Parma Vaniglia (from the Signatures of the Sun Collection) is not your ordinary vanilla scent.

This 2019 EDP opens with the warmth of citrus notes, in particular bergamot, mandarin and neroli. They are given a light and airy treatment. The floral heliotrope brings a nutty quality.

The vanilla makes itself known early in the fragrance’s progression. The best variety from Madagascar has clearly been used. It’s creamy and dreamy. There’s a slight hint of jasmine sambac too, which adds to the soft sweetness. Notes of cedarwood and musk in the drydown conclude a deliciously suave experience.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Vaniglia EDP

ACQUA DI PARMA QUERCIA EDP

Acqua di Parma does some of the best citrus openings in the biz. That’s been a given since its founding in 1916 with Colonia. So Quercia might be a surprise to those who associate the brand only with sunny Italian skies.

Sure, this 2019 EDP begins in typically bright mode, with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain. It starts to change with the appearance of the spice of pink pepper and cardamom notes. And then takes on a darker character that’s true to its inspiration of walking through an oak-tree forest (“quercia” = oak tree in Italian).

Notes of oakmoss, cedar and patchouli create a suitably damp, earthy and woody feel in the drydown.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Quercia EDP

ACQUA DI PARMA OSMANTHUS EDP

Launched in 2019, this EDP is fabulously floral and unisex at the same time. Promise.

Slightly bitter neroli meets sweet green mandarin in the intro. Both have honeyed citrus undertones. Peony maintains the freshness, while silky ambrette gives it a natural musky vibe. Pink pepper, with a hint of rosiness, accentuates the floral vibe in a fresh and spicy way.

The osmanthus is richly fruity, with milky accents of apricot and peach. Its sensual character is complemented by a tinge of earthy patchouli, without becoming unbearably sweet.

Acqua di Parma Fragrances - Acqua di Parma Osmanthus EDP

Acqua di Parma fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics and Woolworths.

 

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Simple Pleasures: The Best Uncomplicated Fragrances

Uncomplicated Fragrances

Who says perfumes must be complex to be good? The best uncomplicated fragrances rely on simple compositions in which it’s possible to pick up most of the listed notes.

This doesn’t mean there’s less technical and creative expertise involved in producing these uncomplicated fragrances. If anything, it takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.

“It takes a particularly skilled and confident perfumer to produce these simple pleasures.”

Uncomplicated Fragrances

SIMPLE ENOUGH: French brand Berdoues is particularly good at uncomplicated fragrances.

Here’s my selection of the best uncomplicated fragrances. The perfect antidote to our over-stimulated times.

Do you have any favourite uncomplicated fragrances?

Where known, the name of the perfumer is listed in brackets after the name of the perfume.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER LE MALE LE PARFUM EDP INTENSE (QUENTIN BISCH & NATHALIE GRACIA-CETTO)

Launched in 1995, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. 50+ flankers and limited editions later, Le Male Le Parfum was released in 2020 to celebrate its 25th anniversary. More streamlined than the original, one might even call him mature.

This EDP (the parfum bit must be for marketing purposes) opens with the sweet spice of cardamom. Aromatic lavender is given a powdery vibe thanks to iris, while vanilla cosies up with woody notes in the drydown.

Staying true to the original with its prominent accents of lavender and vanilla, it’s very likeable in a warm and sensual oriental style.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE COLOGNE INDÉLÉBILE* (DOMINIQUE ROPION)

Frédéric Malle describes Cologne Indélébile as “erotic naiveté”. Only the French could get away with such language. What I do know is that this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house makes me feel incredibly calm and refreshed.

Opening all fresh, citrusy and green with notes of lemon, bergamot and petitgrain, it isn’t a reinvention of the classic cologne format. There’s no need for that. The florals of orange blossom and narcissus maintain the crisp feel, while tempering the initial sharpness.

Colognes are often things of fleeting beauty, but an overdose of white musk gives this one more oomph than usual. It also gives this beauty a chic cleanness.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

BERDOUES VÂNIRA MOOREA EDP (ALEXANDRA MONET)

Something simple? Something a bit exotic? Something that will make you want to smell yourself? Repeatedly. This 2016 release from the Grasse-based company’s travel-inspired Grands Crus Collection will satisfy these needs. And more.

Featuring fresh citrus notes of petitgrain and orange, the opening will draw you in immediately. It’s a bright and sunny island mood (even if you’re stuck behind your PC), with green aspects. And then there’s the vanilla from Moorea, an island near Tahiti. It’s smooth, creamy and tropical, without being too sticky sweet. Delicious stuff!

I also recommend other simple pleasures from this brand, such as Maasaï Mara and Selva do Brazil.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

HERMÈS UN JARDIN SUR LA LAGUNE EDT (CHRISTINE NAGEL)

I’m all for fragrances that take me to special places in these Covid-limiting times. And Hermès Un Jardin Sur La Lagune does that in understated style.

For the most recent addition to the Gardens Collection (2019), the French luxury brand’s in-house perfumer Christine Nagel took inspiration from a secret garden in a Venice lagoon.

Its white florals (magnolia, lily and pittosporum) have a subtly sweet scent. In the background there’s a marine accord, with a soupçon of salt, adding to the freshness. Settling on a woody base, this unisex EDT is relaxing and dreamy. Couldn’t ask for more right now.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

DIPTYQUE OLENE EDT* (SERGE KALOUGUINE)

Diptyque excels at perfumes that smell wonderfully natural. And this 1988 release is a prime example. It takes its inspiration from the lush smells emanating from Venetian gardens during summer evenings.

That mood begins in opulent style with notes of narcissus and honeysuckle. It’s floral, but with green accents. The fresh floral theme continues with notes of wisteria and jasmine, without tipping into unbearable sweetness.

It’s an olfactory invite to get lost in it all and with a perfume this good, how could you refuse?

Uncomplicated Fragrances

PENHALIGON’S TERRIBLE TEDDY EDP* (QUENTIN BISCH)

Part of the appeal (and the price) of Terrible Teddy is its rhino head top. It’s a 2019 release from the British niche brand’s Portraits Collection, a humorous take on the idea of fragrance families.

The scent itself is the very definition of simplicity. Incense + leather + Ambroxan. In perfumer Quentin Bisch’s capable hands, it adds up to create a warm and seductive affair. There’s enough smoky, animalic, musky, ambery depth in this EDP to give it oomph and to warrant its price tag.

I also rate Much Ado About The Duke and The Tragedy of Lord George from the same range.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

HUGO BOSS HUGO REVERSED EDT

Hugo Boss fragrances have been about zesty freshness since the launch of the original in 1995, and this 2018 release fits the pattern.

Probably the best flanker from the range, it opens with a double whammy of citrus crispness (Calabrian bergamot and grapefruit), followed by an aromatic hit of rosemary and a hint of clean vetiver.

This no-frills, but surprisingly versatile scent is primarily aimed at young men but is too good not to try for yourself if you’re from an older demographic. Points for the graphic flacon too.

Image: Hugo Boss.

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE THIS IS LOVE! FOR HIM EDT (NATHALIE LORSON)

I’ve had a soft spot for Zadig & Voltaire releases for quite some time and can’t recommend them enough for their terrific value. This 2020 release affirms why the French rock-chic fashion label gets it right.

Fresh bergamot opens this EDT. It’s followed by a note of sunshine-kissed orange blossom. But it’s the big dose of warm and creamy sandalwood in the drydown that wraps up this creation rather nicely.

It’s as deceptively simple as 1, 2 , 3, but oh so effective and sensual.

BYREDO REINE DE NUIT EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*

The last few years have seen a boom in extrait de parfum concentrations, as consumers demand the best available quality and powerful perfumes on every level. Sensing this shift, the clever people at Byredo launched the Night Veils Collection.

There’s plenty of blackcurrant in the opening of this 2019 release. Its fruity piquancy blends with the leathery warmth of saffron. A voluptuous and dirty rose stands proudly in the heart of the scent. Incense amplifies the unashamed oriental ambience.

In keeping with the best raw materials, it settles sensually on a base of ambrette, the natural musk, while patchouli brings its characteristic earthiness to the rich composition.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

ESCENTRIC MOLECULES MOLECULE 05 EDP* (GEZA SCHOEN)

I’m always keen to try Escentric Molecules fragrances to learn more about the chemistry of perfumery. Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 showcases the aroma-molecule Cashmeran (also known as cashmere wood or blond woods).

This synthetic is ubiquitous, to say the least. It can be found in everything from Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras to Maison Martin Margiela By The Fireplace. With its musky and woody qualities, there’s a good reason why it’s such an essential part of any perfumer’s toolkit. On its own in this 2020 release, there’s lots of dry cosiness, with a gentle sweetness.

Thanks for the lesson, Mr Schoen. Fascinating, as always.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

CALVIN KLEIN CK EVERYONE EDT (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

The CK One franchise has been delivering the goods with impressive consistency since its launch in 1994. The latest addition (2020) to the range, with its clever name, expresses the universal and unisex appeal of the scent.

The opening is bright, fresh and uplifting, thanks to sweet orange oil and zingy ginger. The tea accord brings a green facet to the vegan formula, while cedarwood gives it depth.

It’s super agreeable, and I also give the thumbs up to the elastic band on the bottle, a nod to the most exposed underwear waistband ever.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)

Esteemed French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian can always be relied upon to produce elegant, timeless scents. This year, he released cologne forte (strong) versions of the best-selling unisex Aqua range: Universalis, Celestia and Vitae.

All three are worth sniffing out, but Aqua Celestia Cologne Forte (pictured below, right) stands out with its seeming effortlessness.

The opening is on the tart side, with the citrus hues of bergamot at the fore. But not for long, as the fruitiness of blackcurrant, mimosa and jasmine notes come into play. The fruitiness continues through to the musky and powdery drydown.

Uncomplicated Fragrances

*These best uncomplicated fragrances are available at Skins Cosmetics.

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Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP Review

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

With the enigmatic and visionary Rei Kawakubo as creative director of the Paris-based fashion brand (she would never call her creations “fashion”), Comme des Garçons fragrances could never be ordinary. The eponymous EDP (pictured, below) established the company’s unconventional approach to perfumery in a big and spicy way in 1994. More than twenty-five years later, Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP arrived on the market.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

Both designer and niche, the company has had its fair share of ups and downs over the decades. This is to be expected when releases range from the downright anti-perfumes such as Series 6: Synthetic Garage EDT (2004), with its kerosene smell, to the more approachable Floriental EDP (2015).

Does Comme des Garçons Rouge live up to the brand’s creative and innovative reputation?

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE PERFUMER

Born and raised in Grasse, France, the award-winning Nathalie Gracia-Cetto (pictured, above) has earned praise for her designer and niche creations. These include Fragrance du Bois Oud Jaune Intense Parfum (2013), Ex Nihilo Love Shot EDP (2016), Tom Ford Soleil Blanc EDP (2016), Rochas Moustache EDP (2018) and Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky EDT (2018).

The pharmacology graduate also created Radish Vetiver EDP for Comme des Garçons’ Clash Collection in 2019, so is familiar with their aesthetic.

IMAGE: comme-des-garcons.com.

SO WHAT DOES COMME DES GARÇONS ROUGE SMELL LIKE?

Beetroot! Yep, the root vegetable stands out in the opening and pretty much throughout the scent’s progression. Its innate earthiness is given a spicy, rosy, slightly sweet twist with a pink peppercorn note. There’s more spice from zesty ginger. Its freshness is enhanced by the Egyptian geranium leaves, with their minty and gently metallic profile.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

The intrigue doesn’t stop there. Incense makes its presence felt, without being overpowering. Its resinous smoke is complemented by the muskiness of patchouli and cistus.

There’s no shortage of fragrances with the word “rouge” in it and packaging to match. But Comme des Garçons Rouge is not just another marketing gimmick and proves the brand has not lost its edge.

While the beetroot is prominent, it’s treated and blended in such a clever way, there’s a good chance, you could love this fragrance even if you normally hate eating the vegetable.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP

If you’re looking for something different, but not outrageously experimental, this scent achieves a fine balancing act of pleasing long-time Comme des Garçons fans, while not alienating potential new devotees.

Comme des Garçons Rouge EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.