Choo! Choo! We all know the sound of the frag hype-train as it gathers steam. And there’s certainly been a lot of fanfare around Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP since its release in 2019.
Following stints at Dominique Sirop, Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermès and Giambattista Valli, Marc-Antoine Barrois (pictured, below) launched his own couture brand for men in 2009. He made his fragrance debut in 2016 with the cult favourite Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 EDP, and the recently released Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade EDP looks set to become equally popular.
IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede triumphed at The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2020 in France, the UK and Russia, and was a finalist in The Art and Olfaction Awards in the same year.
It’s being hailed as one of the best leather fragrances in recent years. I tell you why it’s so special.
PERFUMER
I’m starting to think Quentin Bisch must be one of the busiest perfumers around.
Born in Strasbourg and a graduate of the renowned Givaudan Perfumery School, he made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
Creations for brands such as Etat Libre d’Orange (La Fin du Monde EDP 2013), Ex Nihilo (Fleur Narcotique EDP, 2014), Mugler (A*Men Ultra Zest EDT, 2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier (Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP, 2016) showed he was a talent to watch, whether for designer or niche.
Quentin Bisch has been in non-stop demand ever since, with everyone seeming to want a piece of the “star perfumer” (he’s too humble and focused on his work to let such flattery go to his head).
Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021), Kenzo Homme EDT Intense (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) are just some of his achievements.
SO WHAT DOES MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS GANYMEDE EDP SMELL LIKE?
It starts out quietly with a citrus note of mandarin orange, fresh and unsweetened. The spice saffron is known for its leathery qualities and its treatment here is deft and without any heavy-handedness.
What makes this scent most intriguing is the dynamic between the airiness of violet leaf, floral fruitiness of osmanthus and herbaceousness of immortelle. The combined effect is softly salty and metallic. It sounds clinical but is given a sensual musky aspect with the synthetic Ambroxan.
It’s all held together with a liberal dose of the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood. Quentin Bisch has used this ingredient in other creations of his, including Mugler Angel Nova EDP, Etat Libre d’Orange Experimentum Crucis EDP and Ex Nihilo Cuir Celeste EDP. Here, it has elements of patchouli and woody spice.
Much is made of the collaboration between brands and perfumers in an increasingly creation-by-committee world. It’s clear the partnership between Marc-Antoine Barrois and Quentin Bisch epitomises what niche is all about: the exploration and execution of unusual ideas (yes, a designer brand can be niche too).
IMAGE: Olivier Yoan for Marc-Antoine Barrrois.
The beauty of Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede lies in its subtle sophistication and that it doesn’t venture into obviously animalic territory. While understated, it’s also multi-faceted, unique and, as per its inspiration – “the two fellow artists have dreamt of this new planet: Ganymede, the rocky satellite of Jupiter discovered in 1610 by Galileo, is both luminous and covered with salt-water oceans” – a tad otherworldly (some might even say disgusting and strange, I disagree).
Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
One of the mostly widely used ingredients in perfumery, aldehydes are probably also the most misunderstood. Chanel No 5 is the most famous example (its creator Ernest Beaux famously over-dosed the original parfum version in 1921), but it was not the first. That honour belongs to L.T. Piver Rêve d’Or from 1905.
IMAGE: Chanel.
Aldehydes feature in a veritable roll-call of all-time classics, including Carven Ma Griffe Parfum (1946), Rochas Madame Rochas EDT (1960), Hermès Calèche EDT (1961), Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche EDT (1971) and Dior Dune EDT (1991).
Without getting too technical, in perfumery, aldehydes refer to a large family of compounds, such as heptanal, octanal, nonanol and decanol. Some of them are naturals, while many others have been synthesised in labs.
Depending on which one is used and how they are used, they can give compositions a clean, citric, soapy, laundry-fresh, waxy, between-the-sheets sensual, even metallic vibe. They are particularly useful in helping give top and floral notes extra sparkle and pop.
SPICE AND ALL THINGS NICE: With its lighter dose, Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT also gets a nod in this best aldehyde fragrances round-up.
Aren’t aldehydes old-fashioned? Firstly, I have no problem with smelling old-fashioned / vintage-y / mature. But if you insist, they can also be used in a thoroughly modern way.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
What are your best aldehyde fragrances?
LANVIN ARPÈGE EDP (PAUL VACHER & ANDRÉ FRAYSSE)
Widely acknowledged as one of the perfume greats and justifiably spoken about in hallowed tones, Lanvin Arpège was the second fragrance release from the Paris-based designer Jeanne Lanvin (the house’s debut from 1924, My Sin, also features aldehydes).
The designer’s daughter Marguerite loved playing arpeggios and inspired the name of this 1927 release. Almost a century and several reformulations later, it retains its majestic beauty in a complex yet understated style.
From the aldehydic freshness of the opening, with subtle nuances of peach, honeysuckle and citrus, through to the delicate florals (notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, among others) and amber accord that follow, I can see how it earned its place in The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2005.
ELIZABETH ARDEN BLUE GRASS EDP
I thought I knew the American brand pretty well until I came across this 1936 release hidden away on the budget shelves, as one does. It very much set the tone for the releases that followed: accessible and affordable appeal.
Aldehydes give the opening floral notes (lavender, rose, jasmine) plenty of ping and pop. Okay, I’ll stop all this alliteration nonsense now. Notes of lily, clove and (the rarely used) laurel take it in a spicy direction, with woody depth from vetiver and sandalwood in the drydown.
It’s a great everyday choice with a touch of elegance.
ESTÉE LAUDERWHITE LINEN EDP (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)
So why does Estée Lauder have such a special place in the fragrance memories of so many of our mothers and grandmothers? This 1978 release will tell you all you need to know. The company’s founder wanted something fresh and crisp, à la white sheets, and that’s exactly what perfumer Sophia Grojsman gave her, with sensuality to spare.
It makes a cool statement from the get-go, thanks to notes of Bulgarian rose, jasmine and muguet wrapped in soapy aldehydes. Violet and orris do their powdery thing, with earthy support from vetiver and moss in the drydown.
While it’s been reformulated, it has lost none of its elegance. I also recommend Estée Lauder Knowing EDP for its richer and heavier 1980s-style spin on the theme.
IMAGE: Estée Lauder.
GLORIA VANDERBILT EDT (SOPHIA GROJSMAN)
What gets me going even more than a luxurious fragrance? A cheap, cheap fragrance that smells luxurious. Launched in 1982, the debut scent from the American fashion designer (celeb trivia aside: you might know her son, Anderson Cooper, from CNN) was created by none other than the great Sophia Grojsman (Lancôme Trésor EDP, Estée Lauder White Linen EDP, Frédéric Malle Outrageous EDP).
Gloria Vanderbilt EDT opens with aldehydes on high and a sliver of pineapple in the background. Then it’s the turn of a floral bouquet that includes tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and, in particular, carnation. The drydown is a creamy joy, withsandalwood, vanilla and cinnamon notes.
This EDT fades fairly fast, but for the price, top up as you go.
CHANEL NO 5 EDP (JACQUES POLGE)
To quote Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music, “Let’s start at the very beginning, a very good place to start.” Without hubris, I can confidently say that Chanel set the standard for modern perfumery in 1921 when she briefed Russian-born nose Ernest Beaux to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent”.
Chanel No 5 was revolutionary in several ways. Unlike many of the perfumes that were popular at the time, it didn’t focus on one specific note. Most importantly, it showcased aldehydes, with their fizzy soapiness, to spectacular effect.
In 1986, Jacques Polge reinterpreted the original in an EDP concentration. Its aldehydic opening is enhanced by citrus notes of neroli and bergamot. A large shot of ylang-ylang introduces a rich yellow floral dimension to the composition. It’s followed by an elaborate bouquet of iris, May rose, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine notes in the fragrance’s heart. Sandalwood and vanilla make for memorable partners in the smooth and sensual drydown.
Even if you do find it too “mature”, there’s no getting away from the influence of Chanel No 5.
ELIZABETH TAYLOR WHITE DIAMONDS EDT (CARLOS BENAÏM)
Although she’s no longer with us, Elizabeth Taylor remains the grande dame of celebrity fragrances. This 1991 release is the perfect example of why the genre has much to offer, contrary to the snobs who say otherwise. An all-time classic, it was inducted into the Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2009, the first celebrity fragrance to receive that recognition.
It opens with the distinctive soapiness of aldehydes mingling with the spiciness of lily and honeyed citrus of neroli. As with many perfumes from that era, there’s a complex bouquet of florals, including notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang and narcissus, to lose yourself in. But the tuberose still shines through with its narcotic qualities.
Settling on a base of musk and sandalwood, it’s gorgeously glamorous and way more expensive smelling than its price suggests.
COMME DES GARÇONS 2* (MARK BUXTON)
British perfumer Mark Buxton announced his prodigious talent when he created the Japanese fashion company’s eponymous debut in 1994. True to the brand’s avant-garde aesthetic, his 1999 creation, Comme des Garçons 2, is a brilliant display of intriguing contrasts.
With its combo of aldehydes, angelica root and magnolia, the intro is dazzlingly fresh yet full of character. A synthetic note of ink reveals the scent’s darker side and cumin adds warm spiciness to the distinctive blend. The smokiness of incense and vetiver is paired with the muskiness of a labdandum-dominant amber accord in the drydown.
If you still think aldehydes are old-fashioned, this modern classic will put you right. Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT, also created by Buxton, is worth checking out for its lighter dose of aldehydes mixed with woods and spice.
CONTRASTS: Is Comme des Garçons 2 EDP one of your best aldehyde fragrances?
FRÉDÉRIC MALLE IRIS POUDRE Edp* (PIERRE BOURDON)
It doesn’t get any better than Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre, one of the launch releases from the year 2 000 that established the Paris-based niche house’s impeccable credentials.
This creation opens with the floral richness of ylang-ylang. Notes of violet and rose lay the powdery path for the headline iris. Iris can be a bit of an ice queen, but I find this take welcoming and embracing once you get to know her. There’s also an aldehydic element, but it never steals the show. It gives the composition a classic feel.
Warm and smooth sandalwood defines the drydown, with musk and tonka bean lingering sensually on the skin. What a treat!
LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP* (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)
Le Labo Neroli 36 was one of the launch fragrances from the NYC-based niche brand, but doesn’t get as much attention as, say, Santal 33 or Bergamote 22. Which is a pity, because this 2006 release is enchanting stuff from the first spray.
The title note brings on the sun with its honey-ish qualities. It’s amplified by notes of mandarin orange with a slight aldehydic vibe. The floral mood continues with notes of jasmine and rose, fresh and gently sweet. Musk and vanilla mingle in the warm drydown of this thoroughly cheerful composition.
Want even more aldehydes? Then look out for the brand’s city exclusive (Dallas) Le Labo Aldehyde 44 EDP.
BYREDO BLANCHE EDP*
This 2009 release epitomises the Swedish niche brand’s simple yet effective approach to perfumery.
There’s a big blast of fresh and soapy aldehydes in the opening. A trio of florals – rose centifolia, peony, violet – are given the powdery treatment. Clean and sensual at the same time, the drydown features musk and sandalwood.
With the aldehydic prominence, even though used in a modern way, this fragrance is not for everyone, but will appeal to those looking for something offbeat.
CHANEL NO 5 L’EAU EDT (OLIVIER POLGE)
There’s no denying the all-time classic credentials of Chanel No 5. But there are those who feel that the parfum and EDP versions are too heavy and, dare I say it, old-fashioned.
It’s for these reasons that the French luxury fashion brand took the big step in 2016 of launching a lighter version of its icon. Ostensibly aimed at a generation of younger women who wanted to be modern without smelling like their mothers and grandmothers, Chanel No 5 L’Eau epitomises casual chic.
The intro is all freshness, with notes of lemon, mandarin and orange in play. There’s no mistaking the soapy presence of aldehydes, albeit more toned down than the original. The richness of ylang-ylang takes the lead in the floral heart, with hints of jasmine and rose in the background. Musk dominates the drydown and completes what is a very worthwhile addition to the Chanel No 5 franchise.
GUERLAIN MUSC NOBLE EDP (THIERRY WASSER)
Officially, this 2018 release from the French brand’s top-notch Les Absolus d’Orient Collection opens with notes of pink peppercorn, saffron and geranium, but I get a thoroughly addictive and enticing metallic whiff. Aldehydes alert! What a start!
The real focus of the fragrance is musk and rose, and what a wonderful combo it is with its sensual and sophisticated powderiness. It gathers depth with the drydown which features an amber accord and cedarwood. Cistus adds an animalic leather undercurrent.
With its metallic vibe, this is bold and distinctive stuff. I wouldn’t want it any other way! Guerlain Encens Mythique EDP, also from the same range, features a beautiful blend of aldehydes, incense and ambergris.
DIPTYQUE FLEUR DE PEAU EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)
Fleur de Peau triumphed in the Perfume Extraordinaire and Best New Women’s Fragrance categories at the 2019 Fragrance Foundation Awards in London. One sniff of this EDP and you’ll understand why.
The fresh and rosy accents of pink peppercorns opens the scent and then it’s the turn of iris, with its cool powderiness, on beautiful display. But what really makes this fragrance special is its use of Ambrettolide, the musky molecule known for its smooth, pear-ish qualities, in combination with clean musks.
Olivier Pescheux tells me he used aldehydes C-12 MNA and C12-Laurique in this creation. I reckon you’ll smell them in action in the way they lift this 2018 release to luxuriously romantic stuff.
MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN 724 EDP* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)
The Paris-based perfumer hasn’t produced something new for quite some time (the 2021 Cologne Forte releases were variations on the best-selling Aqua range). His much-publicised appointment as Dior’s in-house perfumer might have something to do with that.
“It brings a sensation of comfort and protection, like that of cleanliness, that I crave when I’m walking around the city,” he says on the brand website about the recently released 724.
That cleanliness comes through with its opening of aldehydes – softly metallic and fizzy – and citric bergamot from Calabria. There’s more freshness of the airy white floral kind from notes of jasmine absolute from Egypt, seringa (also known as mock orange), freesia and lily-of-the-valley. White musk takes the lead in the drydown, with creamily cosy support from sandalwood.
Okay, so maybe 724 isn’t absolutely new either, as some people are already grumbling online. It sees the nose playing the fresh-floral-musk riff he does to perfection. However, I think it’s a great example of how aldehydes can be used in a timeless and contemporary fashion.
*All these best aldehyde fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Show me the honey! Apologies to the makers of Jerry Maguire, I had to adapt that classic cinematic phrase to suit my purposes for this round-up of the best honey fragrances.
No surprises, honey hits the sweet spot with the ongoing popularity of gourmands. It’s also used to texture floral notes with a sunny aspect. Either way, I love how perfumers interpret the note, often recreating the variety of the real thing according to its nectar source.
I explore some of the genre’s most sophisticated options. What are your best honey fragrances?
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT, Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the pioneering French niche brand.
Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.
At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)
I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.
From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.
Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.
CHANEL BEIGE EDP (JACQUES POLGE)
Inspired by Coco Chanel’s favourite colour (“I take refuge in beige because it’s natural,” she said, according to the French luxury brand’s website), this EDP is a 2016 addition to the upmarket Les Exclusifs de Chanel private range. Who knew beige could be so vibrant?
The tropical tones of frangipani – all fruity creaminess – are blended with the spiciness of hawthorn to produce a lush mood. You’d never know Hawthorn is created in the lab through synthetic means. The sweetness of these florals is accentuated by a dollop of honey in a thoroughly refined Chanel way.
Nominally a female fragrance, Beige is unisex in my opinion and highly recommended for the more open-minded, olfactorily speaking.
MUGLER A*MEN PURE HAVANE EDT (JACQUES HUCLIER)
The original and innovative Mugler A*Men was launched in 1996 and each addition to the franchise manages to add something different to the theme.
Launched in 2011, Pure Havane is a gourmand tobacco fragrance. It’s sweet from top to bottom but has plenty of character to prevent it from becoming a cloying confection. It opens with the rich waft of cherry tobacco that’s supported by notes of honey and vanilla. Cacao and patchouli add depth to the mix, while an amber accord keeps it warm and cosy.
It’s the probably the most popular A*Men flanker and, for the record, it has not been discontinued.
Tobacco extends a warm welcome that’s impossible to refuse in this 2012 release from the Paris-based niche company, while an iris accord reveals her seductive powdery charms. Delicately sweet notes of honey and cinnamon add to the sensual ambience. Opoponax keeps it velvety smooth.
Everything is in perfect harmony in this stellar Fabrice Pellegrin creation. The EDT version, created by the same accomplished perfumer, is also a great option.
PARFUMS DE MARLY OAJAN EDP*
Parfums de Marly must be one of the most popular niche brands in recent years, with big releases such as Herod, Layton and Pegasus proving to be lucrative crowd-pleasers for brand founder Julien Sprecher.
A 2013 release from the less-hyped Arabian Breed Collection, Oajan gets the balance between accessibility and quality right.
Spicy cinnamon and powdery honey make for a great combo in the opening, with the fruity floralcy of osmanthus in support. The amber accord – lots of vanilla, benzoin and tonka bean here – is all about creaminess. Patchouli gives the EDP earthy depth.
Some of the house’s releases can be a tad aggressive, but this one is the epitome of elegance.
MEMO ILHA DO MEL EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)
Ilha do Mel. A small island off the coast of Brazil with beautiful beaches and Atlantic forests. The name alone of this 2015 release from the Paris-based niche house’s Graines Vagabondes Collection sounds exotic and far, far away from reality. I don’t need any persuasion to take a trip with this beautiful EDP.
Memo fragrances are layered and maximalist, and this one is no different. Juniper oil and hyacinth provide brief green freshness in the opening. And then a floral bouquet of broom, orange blossom, gardenia and especially jasmine are given a luxurious honey treatment. Which makes perfect sense seeing that Ilha do Mel means “honey island”. Musk and vanilla prolong the experience in the drydown.
It’s heady and sweet, but not ickily so. And as always with Memo, the bottle is gorgeous.
INITIO ADDICTIVE VIBRATION EDP* (MAURICE ROUCEL & PIERRE-CONSTANTIN GUÉROS)
I’m feeling all hot and bothered. And not because of the temperatures outside. I’ve just finished reading the website blurb for this 2016 release from the French niche brand’s Absolutes Collection: “a body of lustful scent in a magma of flesh.” Gulp!
Over-statement aside, this EDP deserves as much attention as the house’s big releases such as Oud for Greatness EDP and Musk Therapy EDP.
The combo of floral notes – apple blossom, orange blossom, vanilla orchid – is sweetly seductive stuff. The animalic honey note stands out among the potent bouquet, while musk maintains the sensual vibe in the drydown.
SWEET SEDUCTION: Is Initio Addictive Vibration EDP one of your best honey fragrances?
KILIAN GOLD KNIGHT EDP (PASCAL GAURIN)
The Paris-based niche brand founded by the heir to the Hennessy fortune, Kilian Hennessy, doesn’t mess around when it comes to luxurious fragrances and prices.
A 2017 release from The Cellars Collection, Kilian Gold Knight EDP is deliciously enticing from the opening notes of faintly liquorice-ish anise and crisply citrus bergamot. Honey and vanilla mingle to produce warm and smooth powderiness. The classy sweetness is maintained in the dark earthiness of the patchouli drydown.
One of the house’s best releases, it justifies its price tag. If you want something more obviously opulent, there’s also the 2009 release, Kilian Back to Black EDP, to sniff out.
CARTIER L’ENVOL DE CARTIER EDT (MATHILDE LAURENT)
L’Envol de Cartier was launched as an EDP in 2016 and I was immediately taken by its rich and complex treatment of honey. So, of course, I expected great things of the EDT version, which was launched very quietly in 2017. Let’s just say Cartier doesn’t do hype.
The EDT opens with a burst of clean citrus notes, with honey slowly developing in the background. When the honey takes centre stage, it’s a light and airy take on the note. Good news for those who might have found the honey in the EDP version too much of a good thing.
Artemisia adds a note of herbal interest, while the base of musk and guaiac notes balances the initial freshness of the scent. Unlike the EDP, there is no floral element and L’Envol de Cartier EDT is an altogether lighter and brighter affair. Beautiful simplicity at its best!
BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY: Cartier L’Envol de Cartier is my favourite in this best honey fragrances selection.
BYREDO CASABLANCA LILY EXTRAIT DE PARFUM*
The Night Veils Collection (all extrait de parfum concentration) shows Byredo in a completely different light. No prizes for guessing the inspiration for Casablanca Lily, a 2019 release from the Swedish niche brand.
It opens with a combo of creamy gardenia and juicy plum. The sensual ambience picks up a notch with the appearance of slightly animalic Indian tuberose. There’s a hint of spicy carnation in the background too.
Sweet and pure, the honey accord is something to behold. It’s supported by the floral tones of a rosewood note.
Any doubts that the brand that put Arabian perfumery on the world map, under the creative direction of Christopher Chong, would take a dip after his departure in 2019 were laid to rest with this 2020 release. Part of the Renaissance Collection and inspired by the beauty of the Al Hajar Mountains, Oman, at dusk, this contribution to the best honey fragrances is one for the romantics.
That mood is on display from the warm and spicy opening notes of cinnamon bark essential and pink pepper. Two extracts of rose meet a Jujube honey accord, with its rich date-ish nuances, to create a suitably Middle Eastern vibe.
The drydown is on the woody side, with the earthiness of oak supported by vetiver.
MOLTON BROWN MESMERISING OUDH ACCORD & GOLD EDT* (SYLVIE FISCHER)
The British brand that’s best known for its bath and body products also produces quality fragrances such as this 2015 release.
The spicy freshness of notes of bergamot and elemi transitions to the warmth of cinnamon and nutmeg. A black tea accord adds a green dimension to the composition. It builds up to the drydown featuring rich and resinous oud in partnership with caramel-ish tobacco. Although in a secondary role, the honey accord contributes to the oriental atmosphere with soft sweetness.
If you’re feeling really indulgent, you could pair it with the matching Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Bath & Shower Gel featuring 23.5-carat gold flakes. The 2019 EDP version (pictured here) has pronounced accents of saffron and styrax.
*These best honey fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
Since its launch in 2006, Terre d’Hermès has achieved “modern classic” status. So any new flanker to this much-loved fragrance is bound to be scrutinised and compared with the original created by Jean-Claude Ellena. I’m talking about you, Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP, which was launched in 2022.
Limited editions aside, it helps that the French luxury brand has treated its prized perfume with the reverence it deserves and resisted the temptation to regularly release a different version of it.
PERFUMER
Before succeeding Jean-Claude Ellena as the company’s in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel made a name for herself with Cartier Eau de Cartier EDT (2001), Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT (2003), Dior Miss Dior Cherie EDP (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One EDP (2006), Atkinsons 24 Old Bond Street EDC (2013), Giorgio Armani Si EDP (2013) and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt Cologne (2014), among others.
An impressive résumé that reflects the Swiss perfumer’s knack for commercial and creative success.
Since 2016, she has maintained the Hermès reputation for refined luxury with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate EDC (2016), Galop d’Hermès Parfum (2016), Twilly d’Hermès EDP (2017), Un Jardin Sur La Lagune EDT (2019) and H24 EDT (2021).
“With Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée, I wanted to challenge the idea that freshness is synonymous with a certain lightness. I sought to express the intense freshness of a land covered with ice, and the fusion of these two elements, a source of primary, regenerative energy for men,” says the perfumer on the brand’s website.
SO WHAT DOES TERRE D’HERMÈS EAU GIVRÉE EDP SMELL LIKE?
The opening is all about citron (also known as cédrat), the ancient citrus variety. Here, it’s fresh, bright and slightly sour, as to be expected, but infused with a cool and invigorating iciness. Love it already! The aromatics of juniper berries and citric spice of timur pepper prolong the freshness.
Woody warmth features prominently in the drydown. And, of course, it wouldn’t be Terre d’Hermès without a dose of conceptual minerality, achieved through synthetic means.
Christine Nagel was aiming for the frisson of powerful freshness, and she’s achieved that with her customary expertise.
It’s too sophisticated to be called a “freshie”. Global warming meet your nemesis, olfactorily speaking, that is. With its crisp and cool character, this one is perfect for periods of relentless heat.
Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée EDP is available in South Africa at Woolworths.
Is it hot, or is it just me? No wonder I’m reaching for one of the best aquatics in recent years: Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. This 2021 release from the Japanese fashion brand (part of the LVMH conglomerate since its acquisition in 1993) sees Kenzo back in the masculine fragrance game in a big way.
In recent years, the house has focused on its female ranges – Flower and World – so good to see it investing in its male scents again and especially one as good as Kenzo Homme EDT Intense.
PERFUMER
Quentin Bisch is admirably focused on his job to be distracted by flattering descriptions such as “star perfumer”.
The Strasbourg-born Givaudan Perfumery School graduate made his fine fragrance debut in 2010 with the relatively unknown Reminiscence Essence EDP.
IMAGE: Givaudan.
And then Etat Libre d’Orange La Fin du Monde EDP (2013), Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique EDP (2014), Mugler A*Men Ultra Zest EDT (2015) and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Essence de Parfum EDP (2016) gave him the opportunity to show his creative versatility whether for designer or niche brands.
He hasn’t stopped working, with creations such as Parfums de Marly Delina EDP (2017), L’Artisan Parfumeur Mandarina Corsica EDP (2018), Azzaro Wanted by Night EDP (2018), Chloé Nomade EDP (2018), Carolina Herrera Bad Boy EDT (2019), Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede EDP (2019), Paco Rabanne 1 Million Parfum (2020), Essential Parfums Bois Impérial EDP (2020), Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád Extrait de Parfum (2021) and Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Vendôme EDP (2022) demonstrating his passion and dedication to his craft.
SO WHAT DOES KENZO HOMME EDT INTENSE SMELL LIKE?
Welcome to the seaside, thanks to judicious use of Calypsone. The Givaudan captive molecule is known for its floral-salty properties and it’s beautifully on display here. The pink pepper note adds rosy spiciness to the mix.
I checked with the perfumer if Calone is also in this EDT, and he confirmed it. But unlike the heavy-handedness of many 1990s aquatics, this fresh sea-breezy synthetic is used in a subtle way. That understatement is also shown in the warm and powdery treatment of the fig tree accord.
What stands out most in Kenzo Homme EDT Intense and the part I keep on coming back to is its sensual heat and lingering saltiness on the skin. This is achieved through a combination of earthy vetiver and another Givaudan captive molecule, Akigalawood (patchouli oil is fractionated to produce a woody, spicy, sometimes oud-y effect). I don’t understand the process completely either. What matters is that Quentin Bisch makes the most of this example of biotechnology.
BIOTECHNOLOGY: Quentin Bisch used the Givaudan captive molecule Akigalawood to create Kenzo Homme EDT Intense. IMAGE: Givaudan.
The sandalwood note – deliciously creamy, with a hint of coconut – concludes the scent with finesse.
This is not your usual aquatic. It’s thoroughly modern and while minimalist, there’s plenty to hold the attention from start to finish. Quentin Bisch has every reason to be proud of this creation.
Looking for a contemporary aquatic without the 1990s clichés? Want to feel like you’re on holiday somewhere special? Here you go…
Before niche was even a thing, there was L’Artisan Parfumeur. Fact. With the hype around big-name niche brands, it’s easy to forget the company led the way and has a remarkable selection of classics and more recent releases for those with more discerning tastes. So there was no shortage of options for this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances post.
After founding the French beauty business Sisley in 1972, Jean-François Laporte went on to create the Paris-based house in 1976. From its first release in 1978, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc, its reputation for innovation and quality was sown.
NEW BUSINESS MODEL: Jean-François Laporte founded the Paris-based house in 1976. IMAGE: Fragrantica.
While its founder is no longer with us and the brand now falls under the umbrella of the Spanish company Puig, it offers excellent value in a market increasingly driven by a race to the top (price).
The name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
What are your best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances?
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MÛRE ET MUSC EDT* (JEAN-FRANÇOIS LAPORTE)
A brand’s debut should set the tone for future releases, and that’s exactly what this 1978 release did in original style. It’s a bona fide musk classic.
It opens with the bright citrus tones of lemon. The herbal aromatics of basil is also discernible. The tart fruitiness of blackberry – then a novelty, but now a staple in perfumery – is enhanced by clean white musks in the drydown, while oakmoss gives it a dash of earthiness.
The 1993 version created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême EDP, with its blackcurrant and blackberry emphasis, is also worth exploring.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PREMIER FIGUIER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)
The superb Diptyque Philosykos (1996) is seen by many people as the gold standard of fig fragrances. But credit where it’s due: the first fig fragrance, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. Both were created by the same top perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti.
Launched in 1994, this EDT brilliantly captures its inspiration of lying under the shade of a fig tree in sunny Provence. It begins in fresh, green style with a note of fig leaf that’s followed by ripe honeyed fig. A delicious milky, woody ambience is created through a combo of almond milk, sandalwood and coconut notes.
What a classic, both in terms of its influence and timeless beauty. The 2004 follow-up, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extrême EDP, also created by Olivia Giacobetti, presents a more intense, sunnier variation on the original theme.
As their “perfumer in residence” for 10 years, Bertrand Duchaufour created beauties such as Timbuktu EDT (probably one of my all-time favourites), Nuit de Tubéreuse EDP and Dzongkha EDT for the brand.
Méchant Loup (French for “Bad Wolf”) can be enjoyed as a conceptual fragrance of sorts – Little Red Riding Hood’s journey through the woods. The sweeter aspects – honey, praline and myrrh – are given a suitable twist with dark accents of chestnut, liquorice and woods.
At first this 1997 release didn’t tempt me that much, but now I can’t get enough of it. It’s a gourmand with bite.
L’Artisan Parfumeur’s well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was released in 1999. A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience.
Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and an amber accord add sweetness to the mix, while white musk softens the edges.
For an EDT, this top-notch Olivia Giacobetti creation is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS EDT* (ANNE FLIPO)
While perfume is not going to solve the world’s problems, it is a reminder of the beauty to be found in it. I’m all for a floral lift and the wonderfully named La Chasse aux Papillons does just that in such a charming way (it’s inspired by childhood memories of chasing butterflies).
Launched in 1999, this EDT is a straight-up bouquet of white flowers that includes jasmine, orange blossom and especially tuberose. The latter is light and bright, not intoxicating and animalic.
Softly sweet, this enchanting scent is guaranteed to put a smile on your face whenever you wear it.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR TEA FOR TWO EDT (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)
I can’t recommend this 2000 release enough. Twenty-two years after its launch, its beauty commands absolute respect.
From the first spray, there’s the rich woody smokiness of black lapsang souchong (a traditional Chinese tea). Cinnamon, anise and ginger soften the initial intensity with mellow spice, while a note of gingerbread adds a gourmand aspect. There’s more deliciousness in the drydown, courtesy of notes of powdery honey and dark vanilla.
Warm and welcoming, it’s the equivalent of an olfactory embrace. Just what we need in these turbulent times.
Why is perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena held in such high regard? This 2001 release will tell you all you need to know. The 1993 original created by Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre EDT, is a standard-setter in the amber category.
Billed as a more complex and potent version of the original, Ellena’s rendition is inspired by 1930s oriental opulence, so it has a vintage-y feel. This is a good thing in my books.
The vanilla-centric amber accord, musky powdery perfection, is complemented by warm spicy notes (nutmeg stands out in the mix) and Turkish rose. Earthy patchouli adds to the depth.
Taking its inspiration from “wusulan”, a tradition whereby Malian women perfume their body and hair, L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu is a perfume like no other. Launched in 2004, this Bertrand Duchaufour creation has lost none of its power to captivate.
Right from the opening notes of green mango, pink pepper and cardamom, you’ll realise you’re onto something special with this scent. Incense makes its way throughout the heart, which also features a textbook-perfect papyrus note, with its smokiness.
The woodiness and earthiness keep on coming with vetiver and patchouli in the drydown. They’re slightly sweetened with a dose of myrrh. Pure magnificence!
Want more delicious olfactory travels? Then hunt down the sadly discontinued L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore EDP. Inspired by Duchaufour’s travels to Istanbul, this 2010 release features accents of fruit, leather, iris and Turkish delight.
UNIQUE: Timbuktu is a personal favourite in this best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances selection.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR FOU D’ABSINTHE EDP* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)
A lot of boozy scents take the sledgehammer approach and let you know in no uncertain terms that you’re under the influence, so to speak. This 2006 release is not one of those fragrances.
Wormwood, the chief ingredient of absinthe, opens this EDP with its bitter herbaceousness. The aromatic effect is carried through to the heart with the addition of spicy notes such as earthy nutmeg and powdery star anise. It settles on a woody base of pine tree needles and fir balsam notes, with the smoke of incense adding the finishing touch.
Instead of serving an obvious shot of absinthe, it cleverly creates a mood that’s full of intrigue and nuances.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AL OUDH EDP* (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)
This 2009 release takes its cue from the perfumer’s travels to the Middle East, which partly explains the name of the fragrance.
It opens in powerfully spicy mode – notes of caraway seed and cardamom are prominent in the blend. With the sweet fruit of dates in the air, there’s no doubt you’re in for an oriental treat. I wouldn’t blame you for missing the floral notes, including rose, in the heady mix of resinous oud, smoky incense and sweet ’n spicy myrrh. It gets more complex and dirtier in the drydown with animalic notes of civetone and leather.
It’s exotic stuff, in the best sense of the word, and won’t be to everyone’s liking. If I’m being really fussy, I might have called it L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Spicy Oudh, but that doesn’t take away from its beauty.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CALIGNA EDP* (DORA BAGHRICHE)
L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier is an undoubted fig fragrance classic and while this 2013 take on the fruit might not be as immediately appealing, it’s still worth sniffing out for its intriguing vibe.
An ode to Grasse (Caligna means “to flirt” in Provencal dialect, according to the brand website), it opens with the gentle sweetness of fig. A large dose of clary sage infuses the scent with fresh herbal muskiness. A softly green interpretation of jasmine leads the way to the drydown featuring the woody aromatics of pine.
It’s not the usual scent but typically L’Artisan Parfumeur in its inspiration and execution.
Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to deliver a gourmand with a difference and without any of the obvious sugar overload in this 2015 release.
Taking its inspiration from a rendezvous in a French patisserie, it opens with the aroma of sweet and spicy glazed chestnuts gently infused with orange blossom. Maple syrup brings toasted caramel nuances to the mix, while strong coffee wafts throughout.
Mellowing with vanilla and tonka bean as it dries down, it’s as darkly delicious as it sounds.
The brand’s La Botanique Collection, with its appropriately shaped bottles, doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. So this 2016 release is my not-so-subtle way of drawing your attention to it.
On paper it’s a seemingly straightforward amber composition, but it casts a mysteriously sensual spell when wearing it. That’s largely due to the olibanum, with its complex facets (from fruity and spicy to resinous). It’s blended with musk, Ambroxan and woody notes to irresistible effect.
Also look out for the range’s Arcana Rosa 9 EDP (thorny rose alert!) and Obscuratio 25 EDP (ylang-ylang meets patchouli), both created by the same perfumer.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR AU BORD DE L’EAU EAU DE COLOGNE* (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)
L’Artisan Parfumeur added eaux de cologne to their repertoire in 2017 with impressive results. Inspired by Claude Monet’s masterpiece Impressionist work, Au Bord de L’Eau takes me away to rural France, albeit fleetingly. It’s an eau de cologne, after all.
So it’s about clean and calming delicacy, from the fresh citrus opening notes of bergamot and lemon intermingled with strokes of herbal rosemary, powdery violet and aromatic cedarwood.
I also recommend Sur l’Herbe Eau de Cologne, inspired by Edouard Manet’s LeDéjeuner sur l’herbe, if you’re looking for a hit of sunny neroli freshness.
Perfumer Marie Salamagne had the pleasure of visiting the Souss Valley in Morocco, one of the country’s main agricultural regions, and this 2017 release captures that memory with delightful detail.
It opens with the slightly bitter citrus hues of neroli, with the greenery of tea in support. And then onto the star of the scent show: orange blossom, softly sweet and its natural warmth enhanced by white musk and Ambroxan. A touch of nutty tonka bean in the drydown evokes the fruit of the argan tree, which is endemic to Morocco.
Striking a deft balance between freshness and warmth, softness and sensuality, it’s the olfactory equivalent of taking a walk through an orchard on a sunny day.
A 2018 gourmand that’s well worth checking out. And this time, we’re in Corsica and in the accomplished hands of perfumer Quentin Bisch. Who could say no?
Inspired by a caramelised mandarin he tasted on the French island as a child, he captures the sensation of this candy by presenting different aspects of the citrus fruit: juicy, zesty and sunny but with more longevity than expected, and given the gourmand factor with notes of caramel and tonka bean.
A note of immortelle, with its sweet honey tones, adds to the edibility of it all, while soft floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom complete the idyllic picture.
IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR CHAMP DE FLEURS EAU DE COLOGNE* (ANNE FLIPO)
Did you say light and bright? Then this 2018 addition to the company’s eau de cologne range is calling your name.
It opens with fresh notes of pear and grapefruit, beautifully balanced between soft fruity sweetness and citric bitterness. There’s more freshness from floral notes of jasmine and lily-of-the-valley and white cedar, while musk brings clean powderiness to the drydown,
With its spring inspiration, it’s perfect for those days when only subtle and discreet sophistication will do.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR MONT DE NARCISSE EDP (ANNE FLIPO)
This 2019 release goes deep and dark, although you wouldn’t expect it from the subdued opening featuring the rosiness of pink pepper, with hints of crisp bergamot and spicy cardamom in the background.
It takes things up a notch with the appearance of a note of narcissus. Reserved at first and then increasingly animalic. Notes of osmanthus and plum bring a fruity aspect.
But what really makes this EDP stand out is the dense drydown with its smoky and sensual leatheriness.
Highly recommended if you’re looking for something dark and mysterious.
IMAGE: L’Artisan Parfumeur.
L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR BANA BANANA EDP* (CÉLINE ELLENA)
If you’d asked me a month ago if I’d get a thrill from smelling like ripe bananas, I’d have said something like, “Not particularly.” But that was before I’d tried L’Artisan Parfumeur Bana Banana EDP. Created by Céline Ellena (daughter of the legendary Jean-Claude Ellena and an accomplished perfumer in her own right), this 2019 release is fabulously flamboyant.
The opening is deceptively reserved, with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. And then a rich and ripe banana effect through the skilful use of synthetics and naturals (including jasmine at its most fruity). The skin and fruit vibe continues through to the amber accord drydown featuring tonka bean and musk at the fore.
Un vrai delice!
*All these best L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
If there’s a brand that’s synonymous with the rise and rise of niche fragrances, it’s Le Labo. So a best Le Labo fragrances post is a no-brainer. Founded by Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi in 2006, the NYC-based company rode the crest of the niche wave in the noughties with its mix of French tradition and New York attitude.
FRAGRANCE LAB FOUNDERS: Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi. IMAGE: Le Labo.
What seems standard now – idiosyncratic scents, apothecary packaging, naming convention for fragrances (the main scent note + the composition’s number of ingredients) – was positively innovative and daring at the time.
From its origins at 233 Elizabeth Street, Nolita, NYC, and acquisition by the Estée Lauder Companies in 2014 to recent releases, Le Labo has managed to maintain its credibility and quality in an increasingly over-crowded market.
Many of the house’s launch releases feature in this best Le Labo fragrances round-up, but there are also several other standouts worthy of your attention.
Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.
LE LABO BERGAMOTE 22 EDP (DAPHNÉ BUGEY)
Want one of the best bergamot fragrances on the market? This 2006 release is yours for the taking.
The opening displays the complex characteristics of the citrus note to great effect: tart, spicy and aromatic. There’s more citrus support from notes of bitter grapefruit and green petitgrain. What could be an overwhelmingly sharp concoction is balanced with the subtle floral sweetness of orange blossom, white musk and an amber accord. A large dose of vetiver in the drydown maintains the original freshness with its clean woodiness.
Yes, it’s pricey for a citrus-centric scent, but rest assured, you’re getting top quality as part of the deal.
LE LABO IRIS 39 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)
Le Labo established its reputation soon after its launch in 2006 with fragrances that included Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Patchouli 24 and Iris 39.
Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the almost-too-popular-for-its-own-good Santal 33), Iris 39 brings a different take on one of my favourite florals.
It opens with the brief sunny spiciness of lime, ginger and cardamom. Iris is often cool and aloof, but Voelkl surrounds it with yet more warmth of the ylang-ylang kind. There’s powder aplenty with violet in support. The drydown is big on the earthy patchouli and musky, animalic vibe (the synthetic civetone is particularly appealing here).
LE LABO JASMIN 17 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)
Billed as the company’s modern interpretation of floral fragrances, I wear this 2006 release whenever I want to be reminded of spring and summer. It never fails to do the trick.
Bitter orange (also known as bigarade) is the first to make an impact with its sharp citric freshness. The headline act is everything I want the white floral to be: intense, honeyed with just the right amount of sweetness, fruity and sunny. It’s enhanced and balanced by notes of orange blossom and neroli.
The drydown is on the creamy side, thanks to notes of vanilla and sandalwood, with musk concluding the sensual package.
LE LABO AMBRETTE 9 EDP (MICHEL ALMAIRAC)
This 2006 release is all the proof you need fruity fragrances needn’t be sticky sweet. They can actually be clinical, cool and as chic as hell.
Ambrette (also known as musk mallow) is a natural form of musk derived from the seeds of a tropical plant. It’s undoubtedly the star of this creation, but the mix of citrus and fruit (particularly pear) makes a notable contribution too.
It’s a soft rendition of the fruity musk theme and strikes a deft balance between slightly sweet and sour.
LE LABO LABDANUM 18 EDP (MAURICE ROUCEL)
Released in 2006 as part of the brand’s launch collection, this EDP is a curious beast. Labdanum (also known as cistus labdanum and rock rose) is a sticky resinous substance obtained from the leaves and stems of the plant. It gives amber fragrances depth and potency.
In the masterful hands of legendary perfumer Maurice Roucel (creator of classics such as Hermès 24 Faubourg EDP and Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur EDP), it starts out in musky animalic-leather style, with assistance from notes of civet and castoreum (don’t worry, no animals were harmed here, these are synthetic versions).
It softens as it progresses towards an almost baby powder feel sweetened with vanilla and tonka bean (I wish all babies smelled this good). The powderiness keeps on coming with warm musk in the drydown.
LE LABO NEROLI 36 EDP (DAPHNÉBUGEY)
Le Labo Neroli 36 was one of the launch fragrances from the NYC-based niche brand, but doesn’t get as much attention as, say, Santal 33 or Bergamote 22. Which is a pity, because this 2006 release is enchanting stuff from the first spray.
The title note brings on the sun with its honey-ish qualities. It’s amplified by notes of mandarin orange with a slight aldehydic vibe. The floral mood continues with notes of jasmine and rose, fresh and gently sweet.
Musk and vanilla mingle in the warm drydown of this thoroughly cheerful composition.
LE LABO PATCHOULI 24 EDP (ANNICK MÉNARDO)
Is this 2006 release from the brand’s launch collection a leather or a patchouli scent? The company’s website even states “patchouli is not easy to detect in this formula.”
There’s certainly no missing the mega dose of birch in it. The oil from the bark of this hardwood tree (birch tar oil) is renowned for its smoky leather properties and it gives this EDP an almost burnt quality. A hint of warm and spicy vanilla softens the harsh edges. Yeah, but what about the patchouli? It pops up when you least expect it, earthy and medicinal, and then disappears.
Intriguing, challenging stuff…
LE LABO ROSE 31 EDP (DAPHNÉBUGEY)
Inspired by the aim to transform the usually feminine Centifolia rose into a powerful unisex scent, the house does just that with Le Labo Rose 31.
This is largely due to the potent pairing of the rose with cumin in the opening. Cumin is known for its spicy, animalic quality and it’s used to maximum effect in this 2006 release. The atmosphere is sustained through the skilful use of woody notes that include vetiver, cedar and guaiac.
It’s not an easy-to-wear rose fragrance and the cumin will be too much for some people. But those with more robust tastes will be well rewarded with a standout EDP.
LE LABO VETIVER 46 EDP (MARK BUXTON)
Long before it was trendy to highlight individual ingredients, Le Labo led the way. According to the brand’s website, the name Le Labo 46 comes from the 46 essences that were used to create it.
There’s no mistaking the rich spicy opening with cloves and pepper at the forefront. The woodiness of this scent comes through strongly with the cedar and guaiac notes. What makes this vetiver fragrance special (the Haitian variety is used) is its intense and sexy smoky vibe that’s given extra oomph by the olibanum note.
Deep, dark, delicious… But not for everyone.
LE LABO OUD 27 EDP (VINCENT SCHALLER)
Some people think this 2009 release is too animalic. I think it does a fine job of displaying the precious ingredient at its mysterious and musky best.
Rich and resinous oud beckons from the first spray. Its spiciness is accentuated by notes of black pepper, saffron and patchouli. There’s also some seductive smokiness at work in this EDP, courtesy of notes of incense and guaiac wood. Atlas cedar rounds it off with a touch of sweetness and a whole lot of warmth.
The result: an intense olfactory experience that mostly avoids the Western dilution common to many oud fragrances.
LE LABO ANOTHER 13 EDP (NATHALIE LORSON)
You know you’re trendy when you’re commissioned by the editor-in-chief of the highly regarded fashion and culture AnOther Magazine to create an exclusive scent for them.
Synthetics are amped to the max in this 2010 release, which is actually a very good thing. The soft woodiness of ISO E Super and muskiness of ambroxan are clearly evident, while the fruitiness of pear and jasmine are also present in the mix. The naturally derived musk ambrette seed absolute adds a silky dimension.
Not just another fragrance, for sure.
IMAGE: Le Labo.
LE LABO SANTAL 33 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)
One of the most prominent niche fragrances of the last decade, this 2011 release is still fantastic stuff. Don’t let the “it’s too popular” naysayers tell you otherwise.
Inspired by the iconic Marlboro ads with their free ’n wild west imagery, it presents the ruggedness of Australian sandalwood bolstered by an accord of lived-in leather, smoky papyrus, resinous cedar and spicy cardamom. A liberal dose of Ambrox gives it musky voomah. Notes of iris and violet soften the edges with their sensual floral powderiness.
This decade-defining creation stands out for all the right reasons. I salute the perfumer behind it, Frank Voelkl.
LE LABO LYS 41 EDP (DAPHNÉBUGEY)
Big doesn’t necessarily mean better, but in the case of this 2013 release it’s big and beautiful.
Three white florals are presented in all their formidable glory. While tuberose is the most prominent, lily and jasmine also get their chance to contribute to the sunny freshness. Although not officially listed, I reckon there’s also some tiare flower, with its fruity and indolic attributes, in the mix. Madagascan vanilla gives the bouquet chic creaminess, with musk and woody notes prolonging the olfactory sensuality in the drydown.
It’s truly powerful stuff, so probably not the best option for the faint-hearted. Anyone else will lap it up with vigour.
LE LABO THÉ NOIR 29 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)
This 2015 release is one powerful brew. I’ve never smelled a cup of black tea quite like it. That should come as no surprise, as perfumer Frank Voelkl also created the brand’s mega-seller Le Labo Santal 33.
It announces itself in distinctive fashion with a trio of rich notes: fig, bergamot and bay leaf. The effect is immediately intense and compelling. It gets even darker when the earthy vetiver and tobacco-ish black tea leaves come into play.
The result? An uncompromisingly bold fragrance that more than justifies its niche-level price tag. Bravo!
LE LABO YLANG 49 EDP (FRANK VOELKL)
Any doubts that the acquisition of Le Labo by the Estée Lauder Companies in 2014 would dilute the quality and creativity of the brand were put to rest when Le Labo Ylang 49 was launched in 2015. Created by Frank Voelkl (who also produced the ever-popular Santal 33), it’s a luscious, dense and take-no-prisoners composition.
In the opening, ylang-ylang and Tahitian gardenia bring on the floral richness in no uncertain terms. It’s sweet and wonderfully intoxicating. Please don’t stop. And it doesn’t, thanks to the next stage of the scent’s evolution, featuring dark and earthy notes of patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.
After all that intensity, sandalwood and benzoin leave a warm and creamy smoothness.
LE LABO BAIE 19 EDP
This 2019 release sees Le Labo in conceptual mode. It’s all about the petrichor effect. According to the BBC, two Australian researchers came up with the name in the 1960s to describe the phenomenon of the warm, earthy smell we experience when rain hits dry ground. Baie 19 isn’t the first fragrance to capture this sensation but is one of the most convincing.
There’s freshness aplenty from an airy ozonic accord, with aromatic support from juniper berries and greenery in the background. An overdose of patchouli provides the earthy aspect and is accentuated by musk and Ambroxan.
Intriguing yet very wearable stuff.
LE LABO THÉ MATCHA 26 EDP
Le Labo Thé 29 is undoubtedly one of my favourite tea fragrances for its bold distinctiveness. I reach for Thé Matcha, a 2021 release, when I want something more reserved and tranquil.
Although subtle, the matcha tea accord has the green-ish, seaweed qualities I love about the Japanese beverage. It’s given character and contrasts with the sweet floralcy of fig and tart citrus of bitter orange notes.
The drydown is soft and woody, with notes of vetiver and cedar wrapping up the private olfactory experience with delicacy.
All these best Le Labo fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics. Do you have any best Le Labo fragrances?
For such a best-seller, it’s taken a long time for Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò EDP to be released. The original EDT was launched in 1996 and, like it or not, came to epitomise the decade’s trend for aquatic fragrances.
Along the way, it generated a succession of flankers, including Acqua di Giò Essenza EDP (2012), Acqua di Giò Profumo EDP (2015), Acqua di Giò Absolu EDP (2018), Acqua di Giò Profondo EDP (2020) and Acqua di Giò Profondo Lights EDP (2021). All variations on the sophisticated sun-and-sea theme.
Image: Giorgio Armani.
Acqua di Giò EDP was released in 2022 and with the popularity of the franchise and a mega marketing budget to match, I tell you all you need to know about this latest addition.
Image: Giorgio Armani.
Interesting to note that while the Italian luxury brand released relatively few flankers in the fragrance’s earlier life cycle, it seems to have increased the frequency in recent years to maximise its profitability.
Image: Giorgio Armani.
The new release is also very much in line with the company’s eco credentials. All sizes of Acqua di Giò EDP (40ml, 75ml, 125ml) can be unscrewed and refilled at home with the 150ml refill bottle sold separately. The wood cap means less use of plastic.
Various reforestation and conservation projects in Brazil, Madagascar, Peru and Zimbabwe contribute to the company’s carbon neutrality target by 2025.
PERFUMER
Where does one start with Alberto Morillas, creator of all the fragrances in the Acqua di Giò range?
Alberto Morillas is the master perfumer behind all the versions of Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò. Image: Mizensir.
Born in Seville, Spain, in 1950, the master perfumer has notched up an impressive CV of classics with his finely tuned instinct for commercial success and knowledge of natural and synthetic ingredients.
There’s a good chance you’ve worn one of his many creations in his career that spans more than five decades (he’s worked for Firmenich, the Swiss fragrance and flavour company, since 1970).
If you want to know why Morillas is still so in demand, look at this list of achievements: Calvin Klein cK One EDT (1994), Estée Lauder Pleasures EDP (1995), Tommy Hilfiger Tommy EDT (1995), Givenchy PI EDT (1998), Carolina Herrera 212 Men EDT (1999), Kenzo Flower by Kenzo EDP (2000), Mugler Cologne EDT (2001), Yves Saint Laurent M7 EDT (2002), Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT (2007), Bvlgari Man EDT (2010), Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue EDT (2016), Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo EDT (2016), Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George EDP (2016), Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme (2017), Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017), Gucci Bloom EDP (2017) and Kilian Dark Lord EDP (2018).
GOLDEN TOUCH: Bvlgari Rose Goldea Blossom Delight EDP is one of the many creations of Alberto Morillas.
There’s a good reason why uber-vlogger Jeremy Fragrance worked with him to create his own range, Fragrance.One.
The Spaniard was awarded the Prix François Coty in 2003 and The Fragrance Foundation (USA) Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013, and launched his own perfume brand Mizensir in 2015.
Image: Mizensir.
SO WHAT DOES GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIÒ EDP SMELL LIKE?
The opening brings on a wave of Mediterranean citric freshness, thanks to Calabrian green mandarin*. It’s slightly sharp with a tinge of sunny floralcy.
There’s no missing the marine accord after that. It’s been amplified with Yodanol, a Firmenich captive molecule that enhances freshness with a velvety floral-green aspect. This should please those who found the original’s freshness faded too quickly.
Provencal clary sage heart* gives the scent aromatic muskiness (the herb is a good substitute for ambergris, as the real stuff from the sperm whale costs a fortune and is rarely used nowadays), with floral assistance from notes of lavandin and geranium bourbon heart from Madagascar*.
The drydown is in typically masculine woody territory via a combo of patchouli from Guatemala*, Atlas cedarwood essence and vetiver from Haiti*.
With its long-lasting freshness, Acqua di Giò EDP is certainly stronger and more focused than the original EDT. It’s easier to detect the listed notes in it. While still elegant and timeless, perhaps it has lost some of the complexity and soft appeal of the original in the process. There’s no doubt, it’s going to sell very well. Here’s hoping the brand doesn’t flanker the life out of this classic in the coming years.
*These ingredients have been sustainably sourced, according to the brand.
Initio was doing quite nicely, thank you, with releases such as Absolute Aphrodisiac (2015), Side Effect (2016) and Psychedelic Love (2017). And then in 2018 – boom! – the French brand launched Initio Oud for Greatness EDP.
I’m not exaggerating when I say this EDP has become hugely popular, joining the ranks of Creed Aventus, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 and Parfums de Marly Herod as exemplars of niche excellence to its many fans. I’m told that niche retailer Skins Cosmetics can’t keep up with the demand for it.
At the same time, this law of perfumery – What Goes Up Must Be Pulled Down (that is, the more successful a fragrance becomes, the more it’s trashed online) – came into effect.
So I’m cutting through the OTT hype and nasty negativity to bring you the Fragroom review of Initio Oud for Greatness.
PERFUMER
Despite repeated attempts to get this info from the brand and online research, nada. I expect niche companies to be more transparent with this stuff, but moving on…
SO WHAT DOES INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS SMELL LIKE?
This release from the brand’s Black Gold Project Collection gets going in bold style with a big dose of saffron. Its leathery qualities are supported by the clean aromatics of lavender and earthiness of nutmeg. The effect is fresh ’n spicy, with an emphasis on the latter.
It doesn’t take long for the oud to come through. Any oud fragrance, especially a relatively pricey niche one, inevitably leads to the question: but is it real oud? The brand claims to use both natural oud wood and agar wood oil in this composition.
Depending on a number of factors (for example, the quality, where it’s from, how it’s treated, what it’s combined with), the precious ingredient can range from the overpoweringly skanky and barnyard (not for beginners) to the smoother and more refined, à la Initio Oud for Greatness.
“It’s rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation.”
Even though it’s not as “brutal” as the brand claims it to be, it’s still rich, resinous and very much a front-and-centre interpretation which lasts through to the drydown.
Patchouli and musk feature here, albeit in minor assistant roles to accentuate the overall deep mood. It’s unusual for an Initio fragrance to not be musk heavy, but nothing wrong with a change in tone.
It’s easy to understand why Initio Oud for Happiness is so popular. Yes, it’s not particularly complex but it’s beautifully blended in a friendly Western style. Oh, and did I mention its impressive sillage and longevity? Definitely a big part of its appeal.
Anyone looking for a potent but accessible, statement-making oud will find their joy in this release.
Initio Oud for Greatness EDP is available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.
You can’t always judge a fragrance’s popularity and quality from Instagram. But in the case of Kajal Lamar EDP, you certainly can. This 2020 release epitomises what the Paris-based niche brand is all about: rich compositions often with an oriental vibe.
In the two years since its launch, this addition to the company’s Classic Collection has developed a devoted following. I take a closer look at this cult favourite and what makes it such a worthwhile purchase.
ABOUT THE PERFUMER
Mark Buxton is one of the most creative contemporary perfumers. The British perfumer made his debut in 1979 with Alain Delon Pour Homme EDT.
IMAGE: Mark Buxton Perfumes.
He created several classics for Comme des Garçons, including the Japanese brand’s fantastic eponymous debut (1994), Comme des Garçons 2 EDP (1999) and Comme des Garçons 2 Man EDT (2004).
IMAGE: Comme des Garçons.
While best known for his work for niche houses (House of Sillage, Le Labo, Linari, Parfums d’Elmar, Folie à Plusieurs, among others), he’s also given his bold touch to designer scents such as Chopard Mira-Bai EDT (1998), Cartier Pasha de Cartier Fraîcheur Menthe EDT (1999), Versace V/S Homme EDT (2000), Paco Rabanne Black XS for Her EDT (2007), Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Light EDT (2008) and Van Cleef & Arpels Cologne Noire EDP (2009).
He launched his own eponymous perfume company in 2008.
SO WHAT DOES KAJAL LAMAR EDP SMELL LIKE?
It makes a statement from the get-go. The brand lists the more generic fruity notes, but I get big and juicy pineapple from the mix. It creates a warm and vibrant tropical tone, with notes of bergamot, orange, coriander and cardamom adding a fresh and spicy dimension.
The intense fruitiness of the intro continues with the floral notes of jasmine and rose, which also have a honeyed feel. Most intriguingly, Buxton makes the most of the marigold note with its characteristic herbal muskiness that won’t be to everyone’s liking.
The enchantment continues through to the drydown with a good dose of the synthetic Ambroxan taking the lead with its smooth muskiness. The moss note is also worth mentioning, as it brings a hint of bitter earthiness to what is otherwise an uncompromisingly sweet composition.
“While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying.”
While undeniably sugary, Kajal is so well put together and not in the least cloying. No wonder it’s been known to temporarily lure converts, including this reviewer, to the sweet side.
Anyone looking for a standout fruity fragrance will appreciate this beauty. Even those with an aversion to overly sweet scents could find themselves succumbing to the charms of Kajal Lamar EDP.
It’s ideal for special occasions or when you want to feel special. Mostly, though, wear it when you want a window on a world of colour.
Oh, must mention that Kajal has some of the most striking bottles on the market (the ornate octagram tops have become synonymous with it).
Lamar reflects its light inspiration through the gold hues of the beautifully designed bottle. I wouldn’t blame you for wanting to display this one prominently among your collection.
