Social media isn’t always a reliable gauge of a brand’s increasing popularity / success, but in the case of Stéphane Humbert Lucas, it most certainly is. While the surge might imply an overnight success story, it’s taken 10 years for the Paris-based house to get to where it is today.
I use Stéphane Humbert Lucas Gemstone EDP and Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat EDP to highlight why it should be on your fragrance radar ASAP. And because it’s not just any ol’ brand, I’ll approach these two standouts in a different way too.
So who is Stéphane Humbert Lucas?
Artist, poet, perfumer… Stéphane Humbert Lucas is all these things and more. While studying painting, he came upon his sight-smell synaesthesia (FYI: the neuropsychological trait in which the stimulation of one sense causes the automatic experience of another sense, thanks Encyclopaedia Britannica). His company is best understood as the expression of all his creative impulses and takes in art, music and literature as influences, too.
IMAGE: Stéphane Humbert Lucas.
Niche quality, right?
If you must use that hackneyed phrase, yes. From concept to execution, bottles to juices, Stéphane Humbert Lucas epitomises the spirit of niche. However, I prefer his description: “luxury artistic perfumes”.
Those bottles! Are the scents just as beautiful?
Gosh, you are impatient! But I appreciate your enthusiasm in wanting to know more. Gorgeous, aren’t they? And very much part of the brand’s appeal.
What makes Stéphane Humbert Lucas Black Gemstone EDP so special?
This brand debut (2012) from La Collection 777 reflects the perfumer’s love of the Middle East, “the cradle of the universe”, and the spiritual significance of the number seven (peace, perfection, wisdom).
It’s inspired by the holy Black Stone in the Grand Mosque of Mecca, Saudi Arabia, and French artist Pierre Soulages’ use of the colour black and its light-reflecting qualities.
A brief shot of lemon freshness from Sicily and three varieties of cedar give way to something altogether deeper and thoroughly captivating in the form of myrrh tar. The perfumer makes the most of the gum-resin ingredient, an essential element of oriental compositions, with its balsamic and spicy properties. Its warmth is complemented by the smokiness of incense, earthiness of teakwood and delicately sweet vanilla tones of tonka bean in the drydown.
The kind of scent to enhance quiet contemplative moments on your own.
And Stéphane Humbert Lucas Venom Incarnat?
In terms of its scent profile, this 2022 release from La Collection Serpent (the range explores various symbolic interpretations of the snake) couldn’t be more different from Black Gemstone. Where Black Gemstone is deep, mysterious and respectful, Venom Incarnat presents a more playful and hedonistic side to the perfumer’s work.
This olfactory interpretation of a love potion seduces from the start, with its fruity combo of blackberry, strawberry and wild strawberry notes. There’s more gourmandise via caramel and cinnamon. Rose? No, that would be the raspberry note at play.
The drydown brings out the spicy-woody facets of vanilla and patchouli against the backdrop of the sensual muskiness of Russian leather.
I love how it lingers on the skin.
Which other Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances would I recommend?
Quite a few actually, but these three (all from La Collection Serpent) are currently my top other picks. Ask me the same question next week and there’s a good chance, I’ll recommend some others.
Mortal Skin EDP (2015)
The first fragrance in the collection strikes a balance between intrigue and understatement. The fruitiness of blackberry meets a complex amber accord in which several notes are given room to breathe.
Lady White Snake EDP (2022)
Want florals? A hint of mandarin orange is followed by a full-on bouquet of the stuff (honeysuckle, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine, magnolia), with leather and musk adding to its sensual glamour.
Sand Dance EDP (2022)
The warm spice of whisky and cacao is infused with the creaminess of sandalwood. Kashmir wood (aka the synthetic Cashmeran – you can read more about the ingredient and my recommendations here) accentuates the cosy vibe with its customary muskiness, while vanilla-ish benzoin completes the delicious delight.
Stéphane Humbert Lucas fragrances are available in South Africa from Galeries de Parfums.
Perhaps because of their heavy presence on social media, I haven’t tried any of these, and not many SHL fragrances at all. I might have to remedy that, as they sound fantastic. Great shots and post, Rich.
Big thanks, dear Daniel. Yip, lots of social media action for SHL but definitely worth checking out for yourself.
Love the visuals. Curious to try the fragrances !
Many thanks, dear Aurore. Hope your curiosity is well rewarded.