Best Incense Fragrances: The Smoky Edition

Incense has been used over the centuries in a variety of religious, spiritual and cultural practices from China and Japan to India and Arabia. The smell of burning incense and the waft of its smoke continues to enchant perfume-lovers. As you would expect, incense fragrances tend to have an oriental vibe.

I’ve included a variety of incense fragrances on this list, from those where it is the dominant note to those where there’s just a hint of it. Not everyone goes for the full incense experience.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any favourite incense fragrances?

AMOUAGE INTERLUDE WOMAN EDP* (KARINE VINCHON SPEHNER)

There’s a lot happening in this multi-layered 2012 release from the Oman-based niche fragrance house, but these are some of the highlights.

Opulent honey-tinged marigolds are the first to catch my attention in the opening, followed by a herbal dose of immortelle. But it’s the seductive smoke from the frankincense and myrrh that gets me every time. The drydown maintains the sensual atmosphere. Leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and a smidgeon of oud are all discernible in the luxe mix.

ORTO PARISI TERRONI PARFUM* (ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI)

Maverick Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri prefers to explain the distinctive creations from his niche fragrance brand through story-telling, instead of notes. While some perfume stories tell you nothing, the one for this 2017 release says it all.

Inspired by the volcanic land surrounding Mount Vesuvius, it’s suitably earthy and fiery with stand-out notes of dark cocoa, berries, vetiver and patchouli. Dark and smoky incense weaves its way throughout the scent.

This is a potent parfum, so spray lightly when applying it, as it lasts forever and a day. Also look out for Gualtieri’s infamous cannabis-infused Black Afgano from his other niche fragrance company, Nasomatto, which has a strong incense element.

ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE JUST ROCK! POUR LUI EDT (NATHALIE LORSON & AURELIEN GUICHARD)

The French fashion label is popular for its rock-chic aesthetic. What’s less well-known is that it has several quality fragrances. Officially marketed at men, but perfectly unisex, Just Rock! Pour Lui is one of their best.

This 2017 release opens with the warm, vanilla-ish overtones of tonka bean, which is further enhanced by a black vanilla note. The incense note makes its presence felt early in the fragrance’s progression. Sophisticated yet accessible, it’s complemented by a twist of spice, settling on a base of earthy patchouli.

A simple, but effective composition, it’s one of the the best-priced incense fragrances you’ll find.

GUERLAIN SHALIMAR EDP (JACQUES GUERLAIN)

There are many reasons to always have a bottle of Guerlain Shalimar in your fragrance wardrobe. Some of these include:

• It’s an all-time classic that has lost none of its magnificence since its launch in 1925.
• It’s widely celebrated as the first oriental perfume.
• Inspired by the great love between Indian Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it’s gorgeously romantic.

It will take you on an olfactory journey through bergamot, iris, jasmine, rose vanilla and tonka bean notes. The incense in the drydown is smoky and sensual. It makes its presence felt without spelling it out.

MEMO SIWA EDP* (ALIENOR MASSENET)

Paris-based niche fragrance house Memo is highly regarded for their leather range, Cuir Nomades, which includes African, French and Irish versions. From their Graines Vagabondes collection, Siwa is also worthy of your attention. It’s inspired by the Siwa urban oasis in the Egyptian part of the Sahara Desert.

This 2007 release opens in spicy mode with a note of cinnamon leaf oil, followed by slightly sweet notes of narcissus absolute and freesia, featuring green nuances. Vanilla dominates the drydown, while a gentle take on the incense theme accentuates the oriental mood.

For a heavier take on incense, sniff out Memo Tiger’s Nest.

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR PASSAGE D’ENFER EDT* (OLIVIA GIACOBETTI)

Founded in the 1970s in Paris, L’Artisan Parfumeur is one of the niche fragrance industry’s pioneers. Its well-earned reputation is based on top-quality classics such as Passage d’Enfer, which was launched in 1999.

A tribute to the company’s original office and a play on words (“hell’s passage”), it makes the most of the religious connotations of the genre with pronounced notes of cedar and incense evoking a peaceful ambience. Incense fragrances can sometimes be austere. This one avoids that in the drydown. White lily and amber add sweetness to the blend, while white musk softens the edges.

For an EDT, this is surprisingly powerful stuff and lingers on the skin and clothing many hours after application.

EX NIHILO OUD VENDOME EDP* (OLIVIER PESCHEUX)

The Paris-based niche brand specialises in luxurious fragrances made from the best ingredients, and Oud Vendôme is typical of its modern approach to perfumery.

The intro is delicately spicy with notes of ginger and saffron, transitioning to a heart that balances green galbanum and woody cedar. The combo of precious agarwood and soothing incense in the drydown is super-smooth and sophisticated. A big dose of musk brings cosiness to the mix.

This 2014 woody oriental has a decidedly Western feel. Nothing wrong with that when it’s this chic.

ELLA K BAISER DE FLORENCE* (SONIA CONSTANT)

From Jean Paul Gaultier La Belle and Montblanc Lady Emblem L’Eau to Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc for Her and Tom Ford Orchid Soleil, Sonia Constant is one of my favourite perfumers.

The Parisian founded her own niche fragrance company in 2017 and Baiser de Florence, inspired by a visit to a Florentine church, was one of her first releases.

This is primarily an iris fragrance, a suitably powdery and cool one at that, but it’s the trail of incense that keeps me coming back for more. Wood and musk complete the soft and romantic mood.

YSL CAFTAN EDP (CALICE BECKER)

Launched in 2015, this EDP is from the French fashion brand’s perfume wardrobe-inspired Le Vestiaire des Parfums private collection. It was created by the brilliant Calice Becker (Kilian Back to Black, Dior J’Adore, Giorgio Armani Ambre Eccentrico), so you know you’re in for a treat.

There’s a brief, barely noticeable citrus intro, but that’s okay, because we’re here for the rich, resinous smokiness of olibanum (frankincense), benzoin and styrax. What a seductive trio – all bringing out the best in each other!

The luxurious oriental mood continues through to the drydown, with labdanum in deep ambery mode. A dash of musk heightens the warmth.

KILIAN INCENSE OUD EDP* (SIDONIE LANCESSEUR)

For a more intense oud and incense experience, you can’t go wrong with this 2011 release from the niche fragrance company founded by Kilian Hennessy. As the heir to the luxury cognac dynasty, he’s au fait with all things luxury, and Incense Oud delivers that in abundance.

A rich rose in full bloom sets the scene for the scent, with warm spicy notes of cardamom and pink pepper in the background. Patchouli accentuates the opulent vibe. It doesn’t take long for the precious oud and smoky incense to come through. Deep stuff! Sandalwood adds just the right amount of creaminess.

ROOS & ROOS MENTHA RELIGIOSA EDP (FABRICE PELLEGRIN)

French niche fragrance house Roos & Roos was founded in 2014 by beauty industry veteran Chantal Roos and her daughter, Alexandra. Mentha Religiosa won the Fragrance Foundation’s best independent perfume award in 2017 for good reason. It’s full of intriguing contrasts.

It makes a cool and fresh first impression with sharp notes of citrusy bergamot and peppery mint. Things warm up in the drydown where incense takes the leading role. It’s the kind you’d smell at a Catholic mass. Notes of patchouli and cedar provide earthy and woody support.

*Available at Skins Cosmetics.