July 2019 - fragroom

July 27, 2019

Jacques Huclier Interview: The Immersive Perfumer

Image: Givaudan.

Jacques Huclier made his mark in spectacular fashion in 1996 when Mugler A*Men EDT was unleashed on the market. An audacious gourmand with lashings of caramel, coffee and patchouli, there was nothing like it at the time. More than 20 years later, this love-it-or-hate-it EDT is still in production. Its succession of flankers, all created by Jacques Huclier, is proof that not all follow-ups are a case of diminishing returns.

While Jacques Huclier will always be known for Mugler A*Men, there’s far more to the Frenchman than this association. Over the years, he has produced numerous other notable fragrances. These include:

Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci EDP (2009)
Gucci Guilty Pour Homme EDT (2011)
Davidoff Horizon EDT (2016)
Azzaro Chrome Pure EDT (2017)
Boucheron Quatre Absolue de Nuit Pour Homme (2017)
Roberto Cavalli Imperial Hyacinth EDP (2018)

His work for Map of the Heart deserves a special mention. He began collaborating with this Australian niche fragrance brand in 2014.

Why is perfumery so important to you?

Perfume is my passion and an olfactive art – it is about both creation and creativity. It is always a challenge to create the perfect and most relevant fragrance. I relish this creative challenge due to my competitive spirit. I find the creative process of designing a fragrance tremendously exciting; it brings out the best in you when your ultimate goal is to win.

What do you remember most from studies at ISIPCA?

ISIPCA is where I discovered the fascinating world of the senses, the amazing power of the sense of smell and the beauty of fragrance. It is also where I met fabulous and inspiring perfumers and knew this was the right career path for me.

“I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance.”

What didn’t they teach you at ISIPCA that you learned through experience?

I learned resilience. A most important and critical lesson! I learned how to lose with grace, humility and perseverance. But I also noticed how exciting it is to develop beautiful accords and fragrances – it was already a real source of great happiness.

Did you have a mentor in your career?

Olivier Cresp and Pierre Bourdon were early mentors of mine. I had the wonderful and fortunate opportunity to work alongside them and to watch how they work and create.

INSPIRATION: Olivier Cresp was one of Jacques Huclier’s mentors.

How do you go about creating a fragrance?

I always start with a strong accord and signature. Uniqueness is key for me. At the same time, a fragrance has to be wearable, pleasant and deliver emotion.

My method is to work with short formulas as often as I can to ensure the result is a clear message. This allows me to control the formula and to really understand the balance of the ingredients.

Research is also an important part of my creative method. I immerse myself in the brand or the individual I am designing for. I will visit a brand’s store, observe the consumer, experience the brand and the lifestyle.

**You’re probably most well known for your Mugler A*Men creations. A blessing or a curse?**

My Mugler A*Men creations are very meaningful to me. It’s been a blessing to collaborate with this iconic designer, who’s known for disruption and his own signature. A*Men was the first fragrance to use a coffee note. I am so proud of this fragrance and amazed by its fan community, who are highly loyal to it. It gives me great pleasure to smell someone wearing it when I walk down the street and catch their scent.

You’ve produced a number of fragrances for Map of the Heart. Why do you enjoy working with this brand?

It’s been over five years since I started my collaboration with the Map of the Heart team. This brand is true haute parfumerie and working with it allows me complete creative freedom without boundaries. It is a wonderful partnership with Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling [the company’s co-founders], as we have common knowledge and a synergy in our creative process. We share a passion for travel – always seeking unique atmospheres and destinations for our inspiration. I treasure this original brand and our special relationship.

What would people be surprised to know about Jacques Huclier?

How adventurous I am as an intrepid explorer. I love sailing, hiking and travelling the world. These passions give me perspective, to see things from different angles, as well as a feeling of total freedom. There is nothing like the open sea before you, the wind in your sails, and the excitement of what you might discover.

For more info on Map of the Heart, read here.

July 23, 2019May 14, 2020

Oud Fragrances: The Variety Edition

If there’s one ingredient in perfumery that’s guaranteed to get love-it-or-hate-it reactions, it’s rich and woody oud. Partly, this is because there are many mediocre oud fragrances on the market, but mostly it’s due to the unique qualities of the ingredient. Depending on how it’s used, oud can have a variety of characteristics: anything from musty and bittersweet to balsamic. A visit to a perfume counter will tell you how popular oud fragrances have become over the last decade. Of course, they have been a staple in Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries.

WHAT MAKES OUD SO SPECIAL?

According to Fragrantica, oud is the result of a fascinating process whereby the aquilaria tree species – found in south-east Asia, India and Bangladesh – is infected by a parasite. To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.

“To protect itself, the tree produces a resinous heartwood known as oud or agarwood.”

Various factors can influence the quality of oud, including the distillation process and the age of the tree. The very best oud is incredibly expensive, so most mainstream oud fragrances are based on a synthetic version or a blend of both natural and synthetic. Hence, the endless online debates about whether or not a fragrance is a real or synthetic oud.

PRECIOUS: The leaves of an aquilaria tree. Image: Chong Fat (Wikipedia).

Although there are many standouts here, this is not a definitive list of the best oud fragrances on the market. It also doesn’t include the huge variety of Middle Eastern oud fragrances. But it will give you a good sense of what’s available, especially for those who might have convinced themselves that oud is not for them. The names of perfumers (where known) and launch date have been placed in brackets after the name of each fragrance.

**PURE OUD EDP BY KILIAN* (CALICE BECKER, 2009)**

Key notes: Guaiac wood, saffron, agarwood, copahu balm, cypriol oil.

Wear it if… You want a heavy, pungent and uncompromising niche oud fragrance, with a strong leathery and woody aspect. Some might call it challenging, bitter and unwearable, so be warned if you’re looking for something more subtle. From the band’s Arabian Nights Collection, it’s decidedly masculine and makes a powerful statement.

GUCCI GUILTY INTENSE OUD EDP (AURELIEN GUICHARD, 2016)

Key notes: Pear, raspberry, saffron, Bulgarian rose, orange flower, natural oud oil, patchouli.

Wear it if… You want a great designer oud fragrance oud that doesn’t cost a fortune like many niche options, which claim to use more real oud. Gucci fragrances have been patchy over the years, but the Italian luxury brand hit the sweet spot with this unisex release. It’s smoky throughout, thanks to the incense and frankincense notes, sophisticated and sexy.

**CLEAN RESERVE SUEDED OUD EDP* (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2016)**

Key notes: Incense oil, blue cypress, birch, red pimento, honeysuckle, temple oud, night-blooming jasmine, white magnolia, balsam fir, bushman’s candle, soft suede, patchouli, black amber, praline, musk, olibanum.

Wear it if… You want a clean and unisex niche oud that will surprise you. There are a lot officially listed notes in this fragrance, many of which you won’t be able to pick up. What does come through in this skin scent is the warm and musky quality of the suede, oud, musk, incense and amber notes. The praline note gives it a hint of just the right amount of sweetness.

DUNHILL ICON ABSOLUTE EDP (PERFUMER UNKNOWN, 2015)

Key notes: Sicilian bergamot, black pepper, saffron, rose, jasmine, agarwood, tobacco.

Wear it if… You want a super-elegant, smooth and toned-down oud experience. The oud in this fragrance is well balanced by the spices and florals. It’s from the brand’s high-quality Icon collection and the gold-encased bottle deserves a special mention for being of the best fragrance bottle designs in recent years.

**COMME DES GARCONS WONDERWOOD EDP* (ANTOINE LIE, 2010)**

Key notes: Vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, guaiac wood, Virginia cedar, oud, cypress, pepper, bergamot, incense, nutmeg, cashmeran, caraway.

Wear it if… You want a highly rated wood fragrance, where oud is just one of the elements. The similar-ish Comme des Garçons Wonderoud EDP goes big on the oud, but Wonderwood’s balance between the various listed woods and spices is, in many ways, a better option. A good dose of vetiver adds to the woodiness.

**ATELIER COLOGNE EMERAUDE AGAR COLOGNE ABSOLUE* (JEROME EPINETTE, 2016)**

Key notes: Calabrian bergamot, Siberian angelica, Vietnamese black pepper, Turkish rose absolue, Egyptian geranium, Chinese eucalyptus, Malaysian agarwood, Indian sandalwood, Indian guaiac wood.

Wear it if… You want a very wearable oud fragrance with a fresh, green quality. Paris-based niche fragrance company Atelier Cologne is renowned for its citrus-infused scents. This EDP from its Haute Couture collection features some of the usual oud fragrance combos – for example, rose – but it’s the fresh notes – especially eucalyptus – that make it stand out.

YSL M7 EDT (JACQUES CAVALLIER & ALBERTO MORILLAS, 2002)

Key notes: Mandarin, bois de oud, patchouli, ciste, myrrh.

Wear it if… You want a seductive, smoky, slightly sweet oud fragrance. A reformulation of the classic and ground-breaking YSL M7, it’s a worthy purchase in its own right. A brief fresh opening makes way for an intriguing blend of patchouli, amber and myrrh, with a light treatment of oud in between.

CREED ROYAL OUD MILLESIME EDP (OLIVIER CREED SIXTH GENERATION, 2011)

Key notes: Lemon, pink berries, bergamot, cedar, galbanum, angelica root, sandalwood, oud, Tonkin musk.

Wear it if… You want a seriously upmarket, luxurious interpretation of oud that’s signature scent material. This is expensive stuff (it’s Creed, after all), but for the price you’re getting a masterful and multi-faceted fragrance, from the citrus opener to the slightly sweet oud that’s not too dominant. It’s not an obvious oud fragrance and that’s part of its beauty.

*Available from Skins Cosmetics South Africa. https://www.skins.co.za

July 10, 2019

Sothys Reviews: Purifying Foaming Gel, Multi Action Eye Contour, Unifying Youth Serum

I was introduced to Sothys at the beginning of this year when I was asked to be a judge for a South African women’s magazine’s beauty awards. One of the products I got to assess was Sothys No₂ctuelle Detox Resurfacing Night Cream. The PR for this highly regarded French spa brand saw my recommendation of the product and sent me some other products to try.

First, though, a bit of background on the company. Founded in 1946 in Paris by medical biologist Dr Hotz, Sothys started out as a beauty institute. When it was acquired by the Mas family in 1966, distribution of its products and services expanded to upmarket beauty salons and spas around the world. The Sothys range now includes face, body, sun-care, prestige and make-up products. There’s also a male Sothys range, which is not available in South Africa.

Regular readers of my blog will know that I am not fussy about such gender things. The main thing is that a product works for my skin concerns. I tried the following Sothys products for six weeks and these are my impressions:

SOTHYS PURIFYING FOAMING GEL

Skin maintenance all starts with a good cleanse and Sothys Purifying Foaming Gel did just that. Suitable for all skin types, it contains purifying and refreshing iris extract and soothing meadowsweet extract. My skin felt and looked gently cleansed after using this product. R490 for 125ml.

SOTHYS MULTI-ACTION EYE CONTOUR

As the area around the eyes is more delicate than the rest of the face, it’s often the first to show the signs of ageing. So I’ve always paid special attention to it. Wrinkles and dark circles are my thing, so any product that tackles these issues gets my vote. I applied this product for all skin types to the eye contour area morning and night, and enjoyed its absorbability. More importantly, I noticed how its high protection eye complex kept the ageing around my eyes in check. R895 for 15ml.

SOTHYS UNIFYING YOUTH SERUM

Serums are one of the most effective anti-ageing weapons around, as they are packed with higher concentrations of active ingredients. Best applied in small doses, morning and night, Sothys Unifying Youth Serum contains resveratrol molecules (a vine root derivative to reduce the appearance of dark spots) and vectorised peptide, marine exopolysaccharides and a pore refiner system to improve dermal functioning. It had a visible impact on my wrinkles and the overall condition of my skin, plus it was easily absorbed and didn’t create a greasy effect. R1 345 for 30ml.

VERDICT

As you can tell, I got great results from these products. What’s more, I used them at a time when things were very stressful at work, which always shows on my skin. So I am doubly impressed.

For more info on Sothys, read here.

July 6, 2019May 14, 2020

Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1957 EDP Review

Many of the big designer brands, from Dior and Dolce & Gabbana to Bulgari and YSL have launched so-called private collections in recent years. These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances. It’s safe to say that Les Exclusifs de Chanel is one of the best private collections around. Long before they became fashionable, it was launched in 1922 and now numbers 17 fragrances. Many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances are officially for women. However, there’s a fair selection of unisex fragrances to be experienced, too, including the latest addition to the collection, Chanel 1957 EDP.

“These high-end ranges emphasise superior ingredients, craftsmanship and exclusivity, hence the price tag of the fragrances.”

Inspiration for Chanel 1957 EDP

There are several auspicious dates in Chanel history and 1957 is one of them. Coco Chanel was recognised as the most influential designer of the 20th century when she was awarded the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in Dallas, Texas, in 1957.

HIGH PROFILE: A portrait of Coco Chanel in 1927, taken by Berenice Abbott. Image: Chanel.

America fell in love with Chanel from the start, from her debut as a milliner in 1912 and the launch of Chanel No 5 in 1924. Not to mention all her high-profile coverage in prestigious magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair over the decades.

The number 1957 is also the amalgamation of her birth date (19 August) and a reference to the address of the largest Chanel store in the United States in New York City (15 E 57th St).

ALL AMERICAN: Coco Chanel in her suite at the Hotel Pierre during her first visit to New York City in 1931.

So what does Chanel 1957 smell like?

From the opening, there’s no mistaking that this is a Chanel fragrance. It has a deceptive simplicity about it. After all, this a fragrance about the finer details.

The opening has a fresh, clean, almost-soapy quality, courtesy of the bergamot and aldehyde (common to many Chanel fragrances) notes. The notes of orange blossom and jasmine bring a delicate floral aspect, while orris adds just the right amount of powderiness. There’s also an interesting contrast between spicy pink pepper and coriander and slightly sweet vanilla and honey notes. Further interest is added by a woodiness in the base, thanks to the cedar note.

None of these elements dominate the scent, as Chanel 1957 is really about its beautiful musk accord, which is present through the various stages of the fragrance. According to Chanel, in-house perfumer Olivier Polge used eight different musks to create it. It gives the fragrance a cosy, easy-going elegance and, according to Polge, will produce different results, depending on the skin chemistry of the wearer. Overall, it’s a chic skin scent in which there is no doubt that the best ingredients have been used to create it.

Chanel is very much about casual chic and this EDP is perfect for those occasions. It’s a great choice when you want to take pleasure in wearing something special, without over-sharing it with everyone in your vicinity.

R3 240 for 75ml and R5 920 for 200ml.

Month: July 2019