In South Africa, we have developed a pattern in which public holidays (Youth Day, Women’s Day) become months. And so it is with Heritage Day on 24 September, on which South Africans celebrate their diverse heritages. While I agree with the spirit of these things, I find the commercialisation and virtue-signalling off-putting. This year, however, my blogpost, coincidentally, coincides with Heritage Month, and the Rand Club theme (and the featured fragrances) fit rather nicely. What a clever boy!
But first, let me tell you about the Rand Club. Originally founded in 1887, a year after the City of Gold’s founding, with the involvement of Cecil John Rhodes, the grand Edwardian building (the third and current clubhouse opened in 1904) has seen it all over the decades.
From the tumult of the Jameson Raid in 1896, for which several members were convicted of high treason for planning a rebellion against President Paul Kruger, to the decline of the inner city and a major fire in between in 2005.
But that’s in the past and a private member institution like the Rand Club would not be able to survive if it just traded on its illustrious and sometimes controversial history.
If Johannesburg is a city characterised by incessant change, the current demographics of the club couldn’t be more representative: black and white, male and female, straight and openly gay, across a variety of professions, including lawyers, architects, bankers, entrepreneurs and creatives.
Even with its diversity, maintaining the five-storey Rand Club is a mammoth task, with the City of Johannesburg not helping things with its determination to extract any value that remains via inflated rates.
“Like the country homes of the English aristocracy, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world.”
And while members are central to its heartbeat, like the stately country homes of the English aristocracy that have had to open their doors to the public, the Rand Club has had to increasingly grant access to the outside world in the form of events and office space, without losing the mystique and benefits of membership.
ACCESS MOST AREAS
That access extends to accommodation for members and non-members alike. As I was hosting a fragrance event at the club in July, the opportunity to spend two nights in one of the rooms on the third floor was a no-brainer. Could there be a better example of living heritage?
“If you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum.”
Room 4 is elegantly minimalist and spacious. After all the sumptuous detail in the rest of the club, it might feel somewhat plain, but if you want a good night’s sleep, best to keep the stimulation to a minimum. Apart from basics such as Wi-Fi and a minibar, standout features include sash windows and monochromatic bathroom with shower.
My only complaint? The cooing of the pigeons outside. This is what it sounds like when pigeons cry (and die). Apologies to Prince. Other accommodation options include the Deluxe Room and Luxury Suite.
The stay fell on a Sunday, when the club, its restaurant and bars, including the longest bar in Africa, are officially closed. I literally had the place to myself, apart from a member using the Buckland Library with its extensive selection of historic books and a congregation using The Ballroom for worshipping purposes.
This gave me the ideal chance to take in the club’s ample attractions, including the impressive staircase near the entrance, the dome above it and the operational elevator (dating back to 1904).
In my wanderings around the club (PS: it doesn’t have a gym, but all the traipsing up and down the numerous staircases will have you cardio-fit), I came across The Rhodes Room complete with portraits of the arch-imperialist. As a history graduate, I’m attuned to the indignities and exploitation of colonialism, but don’t believe in erasing the offensive past by removing objects relating to it.
So the club provides many pragmatic history lessons with its fascinating mix of portraits, photographs and sculptures, including those of Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki and Cyril Ramaphosa.
OUTSIDE ATTRACTIONS
While there’s plenty to hold the attention inside the club, part of the appeal is the opportunity to experience the CBD.
The club’s location is “relatively safe”, thanks to 24-hour security, the remaining presence of some big businesses in the area, including Standard Bank, its gallery and a small Woolworths food store.
“Within the vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future.”
Within the immediate vicinity of the club, you’ll find examples of architecture (Art Deco, Corporate Brutalist, Nouveau Classicist, some restored, others seemingly beyond repair) that have stories to tell about the city’s past, present and future. Some of these buildings bear the blue plaques of the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation, as does the Rand Club.
Rand Club, 33 Loveday Street and Fox Street, Marshalltown, Johannesburg. Tel: 011 870 4260. reception@randclub.co.za. https://www.randclub.co.za/
FRAGRANCE COMPANIONS
Often I “um” and “ah” about the fragrances to bring on my travels, but these three proved to be inspired choices.
SISLEY EAU DE CAMPAGNE EDT (JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA)
This 1976 release is significant for the following reasons:
+ It’s one of the first creations of the great Jean-Claude Ellena, who went on to become the in-house perfumer of Hermès.
+ It’s the debut fragrance from the French brand owned by the d’Ornano family.
* And it’s an absolute green and grassy classic.
It commences in breezy style with citrus notes (bergamot, lemon) mixed with the aromatic herbaceousness of basil and bitterness of galbanum.
Tomato leaf, with all its vegetal, acidic greenery, is what makes this scent so memorable. It’s supported by the floralcy of geranium, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley notes.
Featuring an oakmoss accord, patchouli, vetiver and musk, the drydown is in classic woody chypre territory and concludes this expression of French living with effortless elegance.
Even better, it’s available in a range of products, including a bath and shower gel and moisturisng lotion. The perfumed deodorant and bath and body oil are featured here.
XERJOFF NAXOS EDP (SERGIO MOMO)
Private member clubs* may not be the smoking havens they once were, so an olfactory substitute like this 2015 release from the Italian niche brand was the way to go.
Part of the 1861 Collection that celebrates the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, its history and heritage, it’s become a mega-hit for the company over the years. Its huge popularity is easy to understand. Many tobacco fragrances can be heavy and over-powering, but this one gets the balance between the fresh and the substantial exactly right.
That’s evident from the fresh and aromatic opening featuring notes of lemon, bergamot and lavender to the honeyed tobacco that’s complemented by notes of vanilla and tonka bean, with the unmistakable fuzziness of Cashmeran in the background.
If it sounds sweet, that’s because it is, and if our early summer temperatures continue to rise, no doubt, it will become too much. But for now, Il piacere è tutto mio (“the pleasure is all mine”, or some other mangling of the beautiful Italian language).
*For the record, the Rand Club has a dedicated smoking room for the die-hards).
SISLEY IZIA LA NUIT EDP (AMANDINE CLERC-MARIE)
The 2021 follow-up to the 2017 OG continues the rose theme, but with a darker side.
Don’t laugh, but it made me feel like a lady of the night whenever I wore it while staying at the Rand Club. No, not that kind of lady of the night. The kind… Oh, never mind, the dramatic setting was clearly channelling something.
Initially green and spicy, with notes of blackcurrant and cardamon at the fore, the rose is fruity without being overly sweet. Notes of magnolia and freesia support the queen of florals.
There’s nothing new about rose-patchouli combos, but this drydown is particularly alluring with its musky earthiness blended with the creaminess of a most sophisticated vanilla.
While it’s sensual and mysterious, it’s not overdone to the point of caricature. That’s the mark of grown-up elegance.