The last Puredistance fragrance, Papilio Extrait de Parfum, was released in 2023 and when I thank founder Jan Ewoud Vos for sending me the latest 2025 release, Puredistance Divanché, he tells me to “take my time to enjoy it”.
Why am I telling you this? Because in a world of fast fragrance – yes, increasingly even in niche, governed by strict, predictable launch schedules and expectations of instant coverage – Puredistance does their own thing. The Netherlands-based company is also unusual in that they appreciate writing about their fragrances.
I was first exposed to the world of Puredistance and their distinctly non-corporate approach through Papilio, created by one of my favourite perfumers, Nathalie Feisthauer. The Paris-based perfumer is also behind Puredistance Divanché and Puredistance No. 12 (launched in 2021).
FRUITY-FLORAL, BUT SO MUCH MORE
Genre-wise, Puredistance Divanché is a fruity-floral, but that term doesn’t do it justice. The fruity opening may be relatively low key at first, with notes of pear, apple and pineapple, but is increasingly enticing as it develops. The fruitiness continues into the floral bouquet at the heart of the fragrance.
“While characteristically heady, with elements of freshness, it’s not overpowering or overdone.”
Inspired by the beauty of Japanese gardenia, this is primarily a gardenia scent that’s accompanied by champaca India absolute, sambac jasmine India absolute and Tuberose India absolute. While characteristically heady, with contrasting elements of freshness and lushness, it’s not overpowering or overdone.
Is that magnolia? Actually, it’s the synthetic Hedione HC known for its boosting and magnolia qualities. Another synthetic, Heliotrope, brings powdery creaminess to the mix.
There’s complexity in the drydown via the balsamic warmth of Siam Benzoin Resinoid. Feisthauer heightens the sensuality here using a few ingredients known for their muskiness, including Ambroxan, ambrette and Muscone. The combined effect is warm, slightly floral and sweet, but not animalic.
CONCLUDING THOUGHTS
While a fruity-floral, Puredistance Divanché avoids the oft-pretty sugariness of that genre adroitly. This pure parfum (28%) is a fine example of naturals and synthetics working together. (FYI: all the house’s releases since their 2007 debut created by Annie Buzantian, Puredistance 1, are in pure parfum concentration.)
Puredistance Divanché feels out of sync with many of the current trends in modern niche. This is a particularly good thing – it doesn’t equate quality and parfum concentration with blaring and brash performance.
INTERVIEW WITH NATHALIE FEISTHAUER
When I contacted the award-winning perfumer, she was on her way to NYC for a project. On her return, she had these things to say about the creation of Puredistance Divanché:
WHEN DID YOU FIRST GET TO KNOW PUREDISTANCE FOUNDER, JAN EWOUD VOS?
It all started with my visit to Parfumerija Lana perfumery store in Zagreb, Serbia. It was directed by an incredible woman, who launched luxury brands in the Balkan countries. She was the one who oriented me towards Puredistance, because she was sure we would do an interesting collaboration together.
I contacted Jan Ewoud and he invited me to Groningen. I met Jan and his wonderful team at their office, which is inside a church. This special encounter really left a mark on my memory.
WHY WAS THERE WAS A GAP OF ALMOST A YEAR AND A HALF BETWEEN PAPILIO AND DIVANCHÉ?
That’s how long it takes to launch – Puredistance doesn’t launch a fragrance a year.
“Gardenia is often very caricatured. I love its wet, petal-like quality, with a slightly tropical ambience.”
IT’S NOT THE FIRST TIME YOU’VE CREATED A GARDENIA SCENT. you’ve also created VAN CLEEF & ARPELS gARDENIA pETALE EDP (2009) AND CZAR Gardenia X Nathalie Feisthauer edp (2023). WHY IS THIS FLORAL SO SPECIAL TO YOU?
Gardenia is often very caricatured. It’s an aggressive, fruity, green, lactonic note. But for me, the facet I love about gardenia is the wet, petal-like quality, with gardenia in the air and a slightly tropical ambience.
DID YOU USE REAL GARDENIA IN ITS CREATION?
Gardenia essential oil does not exist. However, we have added other wonderful oils in the gardenia spirit, such as a rare champaca absolute, tuberose absolute and jasmine absolute.
WERE THERE ANY DIFFICULTIES IN THE CREATION OF DIVANCHÉ?
Not because there was a story, love at first sight, an obviousness. The brand’s distributor, Sachi, who lives in Japan, had given me a Japanese gardenia concrete as a starting point. It was very interesting because it was the first time someone had given me their own concrete that they’d made, and that’s where it all began.
WILL YOU BE WORKING ON ANOTHER CREATION FOR THE HOUSE?
Puredistance is a quiet luxury brand based on sincerity and long-term relationships. Yes, I’d love to work with them again, but there’s no rush.
Puredistance Divanché is available from the following stores worldwide.