PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRE EDP Archives

We all know the clichéd Instagramable images of fields and fields of the flowering stuff, but pretty pics aside, did you know lavender (scientific name Lavandula) is part of the mint family?

Lavender Fragrances - Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron Parfum — CARON CLASSIC: While not featured here, I’ve written previously about Pour Un Homme de Caron Parfum as one of my favourite lavender fragrances.

With its qualities ranging from clean, fresh and aromatic to spicy, liquorice-ish, floral and herbaceous, lavender is a mainstay of “masculine” fragrances and especially the fougère family. But it has become increasingly popular in “feminine” releases such as Mon Guerlain in recent years.

Widely used in aromatherapy for its comforting and calming properties, many lavender fragrances have the same effect too.

Originally from the Mediterranean countries of Western Europe and synonymous with Provence, Bulgaria now dominates lavender oil production, although those in the know insist nothing compares with the French stuff.

According to perfumer Sylvaine Delacourte, “In perfumery, lavender can be used in the form of essence obtained by steam distillation, or in the form of absolute obtained by extraction with volatile solvents.”

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of these lavender fragrances.

Lavender Fragrances - Penhaligon's Endymion Cologne — SERENITY SCENT: Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne must be one of the most calming lavender fragrances around.

CREED BOIS DU PORTUGAL EDP*

As much as I enjoy the big releases from the Paris-based niche brand – Green Irish Tweed, Siver Mountain Water, Millésime Impérial et al – it’s the lesser-known ones such as Creed Bois du Portugal I cherish the most.

Taking its inspiration from the Portuguese part of the Iberian Peninsula, with its dense forests, this 1987 launch opens with the crisp citrus tones of bergamot.

It makes the most of the clean, spicy characteristics of lavender to create an elegant aromatic ambience. The drydown emphasises the forest inspiration of this EDP (“bois” = wood in French), with rich notes of cedar, sandalwood and vetiver on display.

BOUCHERON POUR HOMME EDT (FRANCIS DELEAMONT, JEAN-PIERRE BETHOUART & RAYMOND CHAILLAN)

Launched in 1991, Boucheron Pour Homme was the first men’s fragrance from the French luxury jewellery brand. It has lost none of its elegance and is highly recommended if you want a touch of lavender instead of the proverbial full monty.

It opens with the wondrous freshness of lemon, lemon verbena, bergamot and orange notes. Hints of lavender and basil add to the aromatic appeal. The heart features a light sprinkle of floral notes, including rose and lily-of-the-valley.

The drydown is woody in character, with notes of vetiver, sandalwood and musk concluding a composition that works its classic charms from start to finish.

**MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN MASCULIN PLURIEL EDT* (FRANCIS KURKDJIAN)**

Showcasing the perfumer’s love for the fougère fragrance family, this 2014 release from the Paris-based niche brand opens with lavender absolute – the Provençal variety renowned for its smooth, slightly sweet, herbal properties.

It’s given sensual depth with a leather accord and woody notes of Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli. Kurkdjian maximises the latter in a smoky and musky style.

Elegance, timelessness, seductiveness… this modern classic has it all.

Lavender Fragrances - Maison Francis Kurkdjian Masculin Pluriel EDT

PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRÉ EDP*

Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender exemplar. But the Concentré version gets my vote when I want something with greater depth.

It opens with freshly elegant notes of lavender and bergamot, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness.

A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal with musky powderiness.

CHANEL BOY EDP (OLIVIER POLGE)

One of Olivier Polge’s first creations for Chanel as their in-house perfumer, this 2016 release showed he was the natural successor to his father, Jacques Polge.

An addition to the Les Exclusifs de Chanel private range, it’s inspired by one of the great loves of Coco, Arthur “Boy” Capel who also financed her fashion business in its earlier years.

Lavender, cool and chic, gets fresh assistance from hints of grapefruit and lemon notes. The green and rosy nuances of geranium complement the aromatic aspects of the lavender, and eugenol gives it a softly spicy clove-like touch. Powdery white musk and grassy coumarin finish the fragrance with the brand’s customary finesse.

While we’re in Chanel-land, I must also mention Chanel Jersey EDP. Just as the fashion icon pioneered women wearing Breton sailor sweaters made of jersey in the 1920s, so this 2011 release from the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection exhibits the masculine-feminine dynamic of fresh lavender and creamy bourbon vanilla in a softly sensual style.

YVES SAINT LAURENT LIBRE EDP (ANNE FLIPO & CARLOS BENAÏM)

Kudos to the creators for this fragrance with a twist that doesn’t smell like everything else on the market. I love its play on the masculine and the feminine.

It opens with the distinctive character of diva lavender, a special variety grown in Provence. It’s warm, slightly sweet and unmistakably floral, instead of the clean and cool customer many of us may be used to. It’s strengthened with the addition of lavandin heart. There’s a bit of fresh citrusy action too, courtesy of notes of mandarin orange and neroli.

The fresh aspect is further developed when the orange blossom, rich and sensual, comes through, with support from jasmine sambac. The drydown is dominated by deep vanilla from Madagascar. It works particularly well with the musk and amber accord.

TOM FORD LAVENDER EXTRÊME EDP (OLIVIER GILLOTIN)

Want a big and bold lavender fragrance? Then introduce yourself to this 2019 release.

There’s a good chance you won’t notice the opening notes of lemon and violet leaf, as this EDP lays on the lavender with speed. It’s fresh, clean and aromatic, as expected, but also coolly metallic. It then gets sweeter and warmer as cinnamon is added to the mix.

The spice sets the tone for the drydown featuring an abundance of vanilla and tonka beans. The result: smooth, creamy and musky stuff.

GUCCI GUILTY ESSENCE POUR HOMME EDT

The Gucci Guilty range has been around since 2010 and over the years it has produced standouts such as Gucci Guilty Absolute EDP (2017) and Gucci Guilty Elixir de Parfum Pour Homme (2023).

While you will not find 2024’s addition to the range, Gucci Guilty Essence Pour Homme EDT (originally Gucci Guilty Black EDT from 2013), anywhere on the hype-o-meter (always a good sign), it offers something more valuable: a timeless variation on the fougère theme in which the herbaceousness of lavender meets the earthiness of patchouli, and the surprising floral tones of orange blossom in between.

*These lavender fragrances are available in South Africa at Skins.

There aren’t that many fragrance companies that can celebrate 150 years in the biz. But then Penhaligon’s isn’t just any brand. It has come to represent the best of British heritage since it was founded in 1870 by William Penhaligon. As you can imagine, I had a really hard time narrowing this list down to just 10 best Penhaligon’s fragrances. But I hope that it will give you a good idea of the top-notch quality and creativity on offer.

Best Penhaligon's Fragrances — HERITAGE: William Penhaligon founded his company in 1870. Image: Penhaligon’s.

What started out as a barbershop has evolved into a Puig-owned company that niftily balances tradition and modernity, with three royal warrants along the way.

The company’s debut fragrance, the woody-floral Hammam Bouquet, was launched in 1872 and remains a best-seller to this day.

You will notice that many of the fragrances on this list are recent releases. Proof that Penhaligon’s is not just trading on its illustrious heritage.

Where known, the name of the perfumer is included in brackets after the name of the fragrance.

Do you have any best Penhaligon’s fragrances?

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet EDT

I begin my best Penhaligon’s fragrances list with this absolute classic. Originally launched in 1902, it was created for the Duke of Marlborough, according to the brand’s website, and has lost none of its charm over the decades.

Interestingly, on a technical level, it has no heart notes. But it’s the super-refined opening of lemon, lime and lavender notes that keeps me coming back for more. That, and the drydown of pine, musk and black pepper notes.

It’s officially a male fragrance. But you know better than to be limited by such things, especially in spring and summer when it’s the ideal tonic for the heat.

Penhaligon’s Halfeti EDP (Christian Provenzano)

There’s no shortage of quality oud fragrances on the market, but it’s this best-seller that always gets my attention.

Inspired by the Turkish town of Halfeti, this 2015 release has a very brief fresh opening, courtesy of grapefruit, green and artemisia notes. It then moves rapidly into more heady territory when the notes of cumin, nutmeg, rose and saffron come into play. Oud is the centrepiece of the fragrance and is very ably assisted by notes of leather, amber, vanilla, tonka and sandalwood.

This EDP is rich, warm and intense in all the right ways.

Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (OLIVIER CRESP)

Launched in 2011, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling is inspired by the quality of London dry gin.

Juniper berries, which give gin its distinctive style, open this unisex EDT in style. But there’s more to this modern boozy classic than its gin intro. A cocktail of citrus (orange), spices (black pepper and cardamom), herbs (angelica) and a hint of sugar all complement each other.

It’s more of a skin scent, so if you only go for power performers, this one might not be for you. But you will be missing out on a fragrance that develops beautifully on the skin.

PENHALIGON’S THE UNCOMPROMISING SOHAN

A humorous take on the idea of the fragrance family, the Penhaligon’s Portraits collection was launched in 2016. It includes an assortment of EDPs named after delightful characters, including Clandestine Clara, Heartless Helen and The Bewitching Yasmine.

I love this 2017 release for its big, bold and powdery rose opening, with spicy pink pepper in the background. I don’t pick up much of the listed vetiver, but all is forgiven when the dynamic between the rose and Laotian oud (one of the best varieties) is so gorgeous. Sandalwood adds to the delicious oriental mood.

It’s on the pricey side, but the exquisite packaging is part of the deal.

PENHALIGON’S ELISABETHAN ROSE EDP

Inspired by the Tudor rose and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, this 2018 release is one of the most distinctive rose fragrances I’ve smelled in a long time.

Its unusual character is evident right from the nutty opening notes of hazelnut leaf and almond oil. Cinnamon adds to the warmth. The queen of florals dominates the heart of the scent, in particular rose centifolia oil and rose absolute. Their fruity potency is accentuated by red lily.

Eventually settling on a base of woody, musk and vetiver notes, it’s powerful stuff, so one or two sprays will more than do.

Penhaligon’s Iris Prima EDP (ALBERTO MORILLAS)

Looking for a super-elegant iris fragrance created by one of the world’s top perfumers? Then this 2013 release is for you.

It begins in fresh ’n spicy mode with notes of bergamot and pink pepper, and then transitions to the star of the show. This iris is full of powderiness and is partnered with a dose of jasmine, which has a slight animalic quality.

That animalic vibe is further developed in the drydown where an oh-so-smooth leather note predominates. Its creaminess is enhanced by woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver.

PENHALIGON’S ENDYMION CONCENTRE EDP

Penhaligon’s Endymion Cologne is a lavender classic. But the Concentré version gets my vote, as it offers greater depth and longevity.

It opens with freshly elegant notes of bergamot and lavender, which give it a captivating herbal-citrus character at first. This 2016 release then takes a floral direction with the addition of a geranium note, which builds on the initial freshness. A waft of coffee brings an intriguing twist and contrast to the proceedings. A soft suede mood permeates the EDP and reinforces its timeless appeal.

It’s too good to be monopolised by men only.

PENHALIGON’S LOTHAIR EDT (BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR)

Wow! That’s my response every time I wear this multi-faceted 2014 release. I’m sure you will feel the same way when you sniff it out.

It’s from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection, which is inspired by all the exotic ingredients that arrived in London at the end of the 19^th century. And boy, does this deliver on the unusual front!

Aromatic juniper berries set the tone in the opening, but there are also accents of grapefruit, cardamom, red berries and fig leaf to tease the imagination. Notes of fig milk, black tea and lavender stand out in the heart of the EDT. The olfactory pleasure keeps on coming in the drydown that features a perfect union of vanilla, ambergris and woody notes.

PENHALIGON’S AS SAWIRA EDP (CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO)

This 2015 release is another treasure from the brand’s Trade Routes Collection. Taking its inspiration from the abundance of opulent goods to be found in a souk (Arabian bazaar), it’s a beautifully executed woody EDP.

Opening notes of saffron, artemisia and absinthe create a rich and intoxicating ambience. The intensity progresses to the heart of the fragrance, featuring a melange of floral and spice notes, in particular rose, carnation, cardamom and cloves.

There’s a lot going on in the complex drydown, but there’s no mistaking the contribution of oud, myrrh, sandalwood and amber to the overall sensuality.

PENHALIGON’S ARTEMISIA EDP

After all that full-on opulence, I complete my round-up of the best Penhaligon’s fragrances with the understated luxury of this 2002 release.

A softly sweet note of nectarine sets the tone, with a touch of greenery in the background. Violet infuses the heart of the fragrance with a delectable powderiness, while notes of jasmine tea and lily-of-the-valley provide floral and green nuances respectively.

An almost caramel-y vanilla (without being gourmand-ish) is complemented by a large dose of seductive musk and creamy sandalwood in the drydown.

All of the fragrances on this best Penhaligon’s fragrances list are available in South Africa at Skins Cosmetics.

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