In the 15 years he’s been creating fine fragrances (see the list below), Hamid Merati-Kashani has established himself as a perfumer to be reckoned with. No doubt, that has a lot to do with his Iranian-German background and love of all things Middle Eastern, plus his bold and distinctive signature.
+ Fragrance du Bois Oud Rose Intense EDP (2013)
+ Initio Mystic Experience EDP (2015)
+ Goldfield & Banks Pacific Rock Moss EDP (2016)
+ Valentino Valentina Myrrh Assoluto EDP (2016)
+ Yves Saint Laurent Exquisite Embroidery EDP (2017)
+ Oman Luxury Mariya EDP (2020)
+ Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Gold EDP (2021)
+ Parfums de Marly Oriana EDP (2021)
+ Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods EDP (2021)
+ Sasva Fruit Du Paradis Phal-e-Jannat EDP (2022)
+ Amouage Opus XV King Blue EDP (2023)
+ Born To Stand Out Drunk Lovers EDP (2023)
+ Liberty LBTY Adelphi Sun EDP (2023)
+ Robert Piguet Rue de Cirque EDP (2023)
+ Widian Rose Arabia Ginger EDP (2024)
+ Kayali Freedom Musk Santal | 34 EDP (2025)
+ Mercedes-Benz Club Black EDP (2025)
While his debut fine fragrance in 2011, Parfums de Marly Pegasus EDP, was a hit, the Dubai-based perfumer had been honing his craft for many years as a trainee, and his success was no overnight fluke.
Thirty-years after joining dsm-firmenich, Hamid Merati-Kashani has good reason to be proud of his achievements. With the rise of Middle Eastern brands, he’s become the go-to man for houses such as Adleen, Emirates Pride, Ghawali and Swiss Arabian, among others.
In this interview, Hamid Merati-Kashani speaks about his career development, the resurgence of Middle Eastern perfumery and his style as a perfumer.
WAS IT ALWAYS PERFUMERY FOR YOU? OR DID YOU CONSIDER OTHER THINGS AS A CAREER?
I spent my childhood in Iran, where I was nurtured with many dreams. I wanted to fly by myself, fly my own plane. I guess many children’s dreams are a combination of both power and freedom. To me, as a little boy, a pilot embodied those two wishes. And then the revolution hit and reality suddenly broke most of my dreams.
“Many children’s dreams are a combination of both power and freedom.”
In 1979, we had to leave Iran after the revolution. We moved to Germany, as my mother was German, and I quickly adapted to a new world. We were living in Holzminden, where two famous fragrance houses were located.
I started training as a perfumer at Dragoco in 1984. I discovered the world of perfumery as the fragrance industry truly impacted the local economy. As I discovered the perfumers’ craftsmanship, I naturally fell in love with the world of fragrances. I needed to compete in the race to join the then-renowned Dragoco (renamed Symrise after it merged with Harman & Reimer).
TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR CAREER DEVELOPMENT AT DSM-FIRMENICH.
I joined dsm-firmenich in 1995 after 12 years with Dragoco. At dsm-firmenich, I was first based in Cologne where I spent nine years before I moved to Brazil for six years. The Latin-American immersion also significantly diversified my skills as a perfumer. Then, I was back in Geneva for only a year when I was presented with a new challenging opportunity in my career.
dsm-firmenich planned to open a new affiliate in Dubai. At first there were only five people to settle in the new office, and I was the only perfumer. It was a truly exciting experience for me.
I confess my Iranian education was key to adapting and understanding the magic of fragrance heritage in the Middle East. Today, I am so proud of how this region has progressed so much.
The Middle East has developed its own olfactive culture. Perfume is at its heart. There is a very different relationship with raw materials. For me, Middle Eastern luxury is a great source of inspiration. Everything is bigger and more beautiful.
THE MIDDLE EAST HAS ALWAYS BEEN KNOWN FOR PERFUMERY. HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT ITS RESURGENCE IN THE WEST?
The Middle East is shaping global trends in perfumery. Arabian tastes are changing the way the world smells. Smells have different meanings for different cultures.
For example, many Westerners are not familiar with oud or intense dark scents. They are versatile ingredients, but are extremely delicate, especially when you work with the best quality.
The rising interest in ouds in mainstream and Western fragrances is driven by increasing globalisation and the desire for unique, luxurious scent experiences. Consumer curiosity about exotic ingredients has opened the market to diverse fragrance profiles, appealing to a broader audience. Additionally, fragrances from the Middle East are becoming more and more trendy, allowing users from all around the world to discover oud’s versatility.
“One of the things that defines my style as a perfumer is that I do a lot of overdosing when it comes to my formulas.”
The use of fragrances has changed to strong and lasting styles, globally. One of the things that defines my style as a perfumer when I create is that I do a lot of overdosing when it comes to my formulas. I also pair ingredients that are not usually used together. This is something that is particular to the Middle East, compared to the rest of the world.
Now, the Middle East is also adapting to the Western style of work and formulation, and it is good to see this balance.
Let’s find out more about some of your specific creations. What was your debut fine fragrance? What do you remember about its creation?
It was Pegasus for Parfums de Marly in 2011. I wanted it to be a bold, signature scent that plays with gender expectations — taking sweet/floral-gourmand elements and reworking them into a masculine, elegant composition.
Clients in the Middle East like this kind of creativity: bespoke fragrances created for them, or exclusive and limited-edition scents. This is why I work more in the niche field now.
In this region, there is no gender when it comes to fragrance, men use women’s fragrances and women use men’s fragrances. So I came up with the idea to twist a feminine fragrance into a masculine one.
Parfums de Marly Layton EDP (2016) is one of your huge successes. How does it epitomise your approach?
I wanted Layton to be a fragrance with character, not too loud in the beginning, but with personality: refined, seductive, modern yet with classical roots.
The apple and bergamot give brightness and freshness; lavender and heart florals give sophistication; the vanilla and woods/spices in the base give warmth and staying power. I like to create strong fragrances as they smell good and are long-lasting.
From Strangelove A Fire Within EDP (2024) to Amouage Opus XV King Blue EDP (2023) and the Kayali Oudgasm (2023) series, you’ve used oud in many of your creations. When was the first time you used natural oud?
The first time I used natural oud was when I started in Dubai in 2010. It was more the oud from India, Bangladesh and Thailand.
Does this ingredient still have the capacity to surprise you?
Oud has evolved from a traditional Middle Eastern luxury to a globally recognised fragrance ingredient, embraced by both niche and mainstream perfumers.
Its versatility has led to innovative blends with various notes, while concerns about sustainability have prompted efforts for responsible sourcing. The rise of synthetic alternatives is also more accessible nowadays, reflecting a blend of tradition and modernity in perfumery.
Oud is a versatile ingredient and when I blend it with other ingredients, I end up discovering that those combinations can result in wonderful aromas. Perfumery is a magical science.
Your recent creations for Adamo, South of 5th (2024), Junaillo (2024) and Eden (2025), show your versatility. Is that something you consciously set out to do?
Showing versatility as a perfumer is something that comes with creating for different brands and different clients.
My goal as a perfumer is to impart my signature with brands around the world. My creative imprint is alive in products people use every day. I feel proud to connect with them through these positive emotions.
What does your office/laboratory say about you?
I like it when my space is clean and I have a good overview of everything around me, like raw materials and ingredients. It says that I have a clear sense of direction or idea when I am working, and I want my creative space to reflect that.
When you’re not working, what kind of fragrance do you like to wear?
On special occasions such as birthday party, I like to wear rich, intense fragrances. On a daily basis, I wear Armani Acqua di Giò.
Is there a smell that’s guaranteed to put a smile on your face?
The smells of my childhood. My olfactive memories linked to the rose fields in Iran are so vivid to me – I feel like it was yesterday. The majestic scent embodying all the treasure from the Orient: rich, exuberant and so generous, intense, sophisticated, colourful, refined, highly luxurious…
All empathic words come to mind when trying to describe them and yet I still have difficulty in accurately describing the emotional scent.
Parfums de Marly fragrances are available in South Africa from Skins.
John Varvatos Artisan EDT: A very different feel, this one, with a fresh, clean and crisp citrus blast that’s tempered by ginger and woody notes. A good choice for casual-chic moods and if you like your scent to remind you of just-washed shirts.
John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT: The hand-knitted rope packaging perfectly captures the Mediterranean inspiration behind this one. With lots of citrus and herbal appeal, it does a great job of conjuring up coastal life, without resorting to marine scent clichés.
John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT: Wow! The boozy Jamaican rum opening of this one is incredible. And then there’s all that addictive sugarcane, tobacco leaf, leather, vanilla and cardamom. My favourite of the five, I keep on coming back to this very special one.
John Varvatos Oud EDP: Mr Varvatos’ take on oud is surprisingly reserved and subtle, but that’s not a bad thing in a genre that can be overpowering and intimidating. While the packaging is opulent, the juice says expensive without trying too hard.
Although the above fragrances are just a snap-shot of the John Varvatos fragrance line (there are nine other fragrances, including the recently released Dark Rebel Rider), they all offer something different to what’s currently available on the South African market. And for men browsing increasingly crowded fragrance counters that can only be a good thing.