Tag: OUD

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Gucci Intense Oud EDP: An Impressive Balancing Act

Gucci Intense Oud EDP

Almost 10 years after it was released in 2016, Gucci Intense Oud EDP remains one of my favourite ouds, designer or otherwise.

Who cares if it’s real oud or not. Aurélien Guichard knows how to create an effective semblance of the precious ingredient through the skilful work he brings to his own brand, Matiere Premiere, and others. He’s the man behind oud standouts such as Robert Piguet Oud EDP (2012) and Matiere Premiere Oud Seven EDP (2021).

Aurélien Guichard
IMAGE: Matiere Premiere.

From the bottle to the scent, Gucci Intense Oud EDP is solid stuff. It gets going with the slight fruitiness of raspberry and pear notes. The perfumer makes the most of the inherent fruitiness of frankincense while also taking it in a woody spicy direction, with soft hints of rose and orange blossom in the background. The oud effect is subtle but noticeable, with earthiness from patchouli and animalic leather adding to the warmth.

Gucci Intense Oud EDP

While wearable, accessible and versatile, it also manages to convey something mysterious, exotic and, dare I say it, oriental (now flagged as a sensitive geopolitical reference when I use Microsoft Word Editor to check my document). That’s an impressive balancing act.

If you’re looking for a challenging barnyard oud, Gucci Intense Oud EDP ain’t it. But if you’re looking for something commercial with quality, this is it.

It’s one of those fragrances that make me think when designer brands get it right, they can’t be beat (another fragrance from the Italian designer brand, Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme EDP immediately comes to mind). Take that, niche snobs. Ha! Ha!

Gucci Intense Oud EDP

It looks like it has been discontinued but is still widely available online and even in some stores for a most reasonable price.

Gucci Intense Oud EDP is available in South Africa from selected Woolworths, Edgars, Truworths and Arc Stores.

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Roja Amber Aoud Parfum Review: Busy But Beautiful

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

No doubt about it, oud has been the biggest trend in fragrance for some time. Correction. It’s moved from a trend to staple in perfumery, with whole brands devoted to this most precious and tricky of ingredients (for example, Fragrance du Bois). More than most, British perfumer Roja Dove has proven adept at showcasing its multifaceted beauty with releases that include Roja Aoud Parfum, Roja Musk Aoud Parfum, Roja Sweetie Aoud Parfum and Roja Amber Aoud Parfum.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

The latter has been particularly popular. And for good reason. It shows Dove’s time in the Middle East (three years, according to the brand website) to familiarise himself with the intricacies of oud was time well spent.

This 2012 release has a similar structure to the other Roja Aouds I’ve tried – citrus opening + floral heart + dense drydown.

IMMERSIVE: Oud master Roja Dove.

There’s a brief barely noticeable citrusy-fresh opening, courtesy of notes of lemon, bergamot and lime. Voluptuous rose de mai then makes an appearance, honey-ish powderiness to the fore. Its fruitiness is accentuated by notes of fig and ylang-ylang.

As always with Roja fragrances, there’s a lot going on in the drydown, with 11 officially listed notes. The oud in question is rich, smooth and slightly animalic, but without the skank. It’s fleshed out with the sweetness of spicy cinnamon and leathery saffron.

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is everything you want a premium oud to be: authentic, warm, cosy and extravagant. With the prominence given to the queen of florals, perhaps it would have been more accurate to call it “Rose Aoud”. But there are already umpteen variations on that theme and Dove has created an exclusive Roja Taif Aoud for Fortnum & Mason. I quibble…

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum

Although a tad too sweet for me, the hype around Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is justified. At R12 300 (over $850 / £600 / €700) for 100ml, it doesn’t come cheap. But then it is competing in what I call the league of “super-ouds” (for example, Frédéric Malle The Night and Fragrance du Bois Sahraa).

Roja Amber Aoud Parfum is available at Skins Cosmetics.

 

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A ROCK ‘N ROLL WEEK WITH JOHN VARVATOS FRAGRANCES

While many South African men will not be aware of John Varvatos’ major fashion credentials, they are about to get a good dose of the American designer’s rock ’n roll aesthetic through the recent launch of his fragrances in the country.

Before launching his own menswear label in 2000 that now includes clothing, accessories and shoes, Detroit-born Varvatos worked for the likes of Calvin Klein and Polo Ralph Lauren. The John Varvatos range of fragrances was launched in 2004, with the same meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship that characterises his menswear.

As a keen fragrance Instagrammer (@richgoller), I have been seeing lots of posts on John Varvatos fragrances, so I was super-thrilled to get a package of the five fragrances that are exclusive to Edgars stores: John Varvatos EDT, John Varvatos Artisan EDT, John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT, John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT and John Varvatos Oud EDP.

I spent a week sampling and getting to know these fragrances, all created by highly regarded nose Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the man behind scents such as Tom Ford Private Blend Neroli Portofino and Clinique Happy.

These are my quick impressions of them below:

John Varvatos EDT: Love the rich, sexy and sophisticated vibe of this oriental woody scent, featuring standout notes of plum, leather, fig, cinnamon and cedar. A fine fragrance debut that, like a good leather jacket, will always be in style.

JV EDT EditJohn Varvatos Artisan EDT: A very different feel, this one, with a fresh, clean and crisp citrus blast that’s tempered by ginger and woody notes. A good choice for casual-chic moods and if you like your scent to remind you of just-washed shirts.

JV Artisan EditJohn Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT: The hand-knitted rope packaging perfectly captures the Mediterranean inspiration behind this one. With lots of citrus and herbal appeal, it does a great job of conjuring up coastal life, without resorting to marine scent clichés.

JV Artisan Acqua EditJohn Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT: Wow! The boozy Jamaican rum opening of this one is incredible. And then there’s all that addictive sugarcane, tobacco leaf, leather, vanilla and cardamom. My favourite of the five, I keep on coming back to this very special one.

JV Dark Rebel EditJohn Varvatos Oud EDP: Mr Varvatos’ take on oud is surprisingly reserved and subtle, but that’s not a bad thing in a genre that can be overpowering and intimidating. While the packaging is opulent, the juice says expensive without trying too hard.

JV Oud EditAlthough the above fragrances are just a snap-shot of the John Varvatos fragrance line (there are nine other fragrances, including the recently released Dark Rebel Rider), they all offer something different to what’s currently available on the South African market. And for men browsing increasingly crowded fragrance counters that can only be a good thing.

PS: If you’re into layering your fragrances, John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT + John Varvatos Oud EDP = Super Intoxicating Hit.

John Varvatos EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Artisan EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Artisan Acqua EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml), John Varvatos Dark Rebel EDT (R1 195 for 75ml and R1 395 for 125ml and John Varvatos Oud EDP (R1 995 for 125ml) are exclusive to Edgars stores.