OLIVIER POLGE FRAGRANCES Archives

October 19, 2020

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée Review: It’s All A Bit Of A (Beautiful) Blur

Someone at Chanel deserves a raise! I’m not the only one who enjoys wearing a fragrance when it’s bedtime. Preferably something soft and comforting. And now the French luxury company has come up with a scent specifically for this essential nocturnal rejuvenation: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée.

“It’s relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor.”

Coco Mademoiselle made its debut in 2001 and has gone onto become a best-seller. If the original was stimulating, extroverted and big on the patchouli, then Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is relaxing, inward looking and private, without skimping on the indulgence factor. This is Chanel, after all.

It was created by Olivier Polge, who’s been increasingly making his mark as in-house perfumer since 2015 with releases such as Boy Chanel, Gabrielle and the Les Eaux de Chanel range.

HOUSE PERFUMER: Olivier Polge is increasingly making his mark at Chanel. Image: Chanel.

WHAT DOES IT SMELL LIKE?

It opens with a touch of mandarin orange. This note can be invigorating, but here it’s suitably soothing. Jasmine and rose sounds like a heady and intoxicating combination, but in Polge’s skilful hands, this floral accord is subdued yet sensual at the same time. The signature patchouli is still there, but very much in the background. Dollops of clean white musk complete the composition.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée is a straightforward scent, but that doesn’t take away from its elegance and suitability as a bedtime companion. It has a hazy, dreamy feel, in which none of the elements feels overly defined.

While it was conceptualised before our current Covid situation, its launch is perfectly timed. Who couldn’t do with some sleep-enhancing reassurance in 2020 à la Chanel? Judging from all the IG posts I’m already seeing on this release, Chanel has a hit on its hands. Will other brands start releasing night versions of their scents too?

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée, R2 315 for 100ml. For more information, read here.

December 13, 2019

Chanel Paris-Riviera Review

Chanel launched its new collection, Les Eaux, in 2018. It consisted of three fragrances inspired by destinations that were significant to Coco Chanel: Paris-Venise, Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Deauville. I was immediately smitten by the quality and fresh tone of these releases. You can read that post here. The latest addition to the range, launched in June this year, Chanel Paris-Riviera, has had the same effect on me.

The style icon started visiting the French Riviera in the 1920s, including Monaco, Saint-Tropez and Cannes, where she opened one of her boutiques. Chanel loved this Mediterranean coastal area so much that she had a villa, La Pausa, built in the hills of Roquebrune. Ever the control freak (and I mean that as a compliment), she overlooked all the details, some of which included elements from her childhood in an orphanage.

RIVIERA LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel on the staircase of her villa, La Pausa, in Roquebrune in the south of France in 1938. © Photo Roger Schall – Collection Schall.

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL PARIS-RIVIERA SMELL LIKE?

For Paris-Riviera, Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, took inspiration from the happy and exciting time in her life on the Côte d’Azur. It’s perfectly reflected in the juice.

The EDT opens with the range’s signature freshness, this time in the form of orange peel and petitgrain notes. They are given a soft treatment. Polge blended a special type of neroli sourced by the house, which amplifies the opening, with jasmine for a bright citrus-floral effect. Jasmine can be overpowering, but it’s very elegantly behaved in this composition. It flows seamlessly to the drydown, where a light creamy sandalwood note is paired with vanilla-ish benzoin balm.

DESTINATION INSPIRATION: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, has created all of the fragrances in the Les Eaux collection. Image: Chanel.

There’s a gentleness to this scent throughout. Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.

“Nothing feels heavy-handed or out of place. Polge has skilfully captured its inspiration without being obvious about it.”

Chanel Paris-Riviera is a limited edition. It will only be available until the end of May 2020. Get your hands on it before then if you’re looking for a scent that captures the spirit of summer with aplomb. For more information, read here.

R2 070 for 125ml.

November 9, 2018

Les Eaux de Chanel Review: Paris-Biarritz EDT and Paris-Venise EDT

I’m normally very immune to hype (me a jaded journalist?), but I do make an exception for Chanel fragrance launches. Partly because the French luxury company is so darn good at hype. But more importantly, because Chanel continues to release fragrances that are worthy of our attention and wallets. I first started hearing the hype about Chanel’s new collection, Les Eaux de Chanel, about five months ago when it was launched internationally. And more recently that hype gathered momentum when it was released in South Africa.

To get straight to the point, I had to have it! I was thrilled when I received two of the three fragrances from the range, Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Venise. I haven’t smelled Paris-Deauville yet, so this review will focus on the other two.

Before I go into that specifically, here’s some essential info on this collection created by Olivier Polge. Chanel’s in-house perfumer took his initial inspiration from three destinations that featured prominently in Madamoiselle’s remarkable life: Biarritz, Venise and Deauville.

WORK IN PROGRESS: Chanel in-house perfumer Olivier Polge in the lab. Image courtesy of Chanel.

These are where Chanel launched her first collection in her shop; where she journeyed after the death of her beloved Boy Capel; and the Basque resort town where she opened another shop, respectively.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Deauville

STYLE STORE: Chanel in front of her Deauville shop in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

While these locations were the starting point for Polge, none of the fragrances are meant to be about these places per se. Instead, he wanted the EDTs to be all about the idea of travel and the possibilities that accompany it.

Les Eaux de Chanel - Coco Chanel in Venice

SUN GODDESS: Chanel at Villa Maatena, Venice, in 1924. Image courtesy of Chanel.

So what do Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Biarritz and Paris-Venise smell like?

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-BIARRITZ EDT

It opens with a superb citrus character (notes of grapefruit and mandarin). This is supported by an aquatic note, apparently – truth be told, I don’t pick that up. It doesn’t really matter, though, as the lily-of-the-valley accord puts any of my quibbles in their place pronto. What follows next is a seductive blend of vetiver and white musk notes. The overall effect is one of fresh crispness that sees me smelling my wrists longingly after applying it there.

R2 070 for 125ml.

LES EAUX DE CHANEL PARIS-VENISE EDT

Featuring a definite oriental vibe, iris features prominently in the fragrance’s top notes, with a hint of neroli. Glorious stuff! Notes of red berry and Grasse geranium add to the immediate appeal. Cedar, amber, vanilla and tonka notes are also present, but in a subtle manner. While this EDT may be classified as a luxurious oriental fragrance, it’s a gentle take on the genre, not a full-on affair. It’s beautiful from start to finish.

R2 070 for 125ml.

In conclusion, I highly recommend both of these unisex fragrances. Yes, they are fairly light on my skin, but such objects of fleeting beauty are worth every cent. Now, all I need to do is get a whiff of Les Eaux de Chanel Paris-Deauville asap.

I’ve included some more archive pics of Chanel below. Hope they will fascinate you too!

Les Eaux de Chanel - Chanel in Biarritz in 1928

DRIVEN: Chanel in Biarritz in 1928. Image courtesy of Chanel.

FASHION REVOLUTION: Chanel and aunt Adrienne In front of the Chanel boutique, Deauville, in 1913. Image courtesy of Chanel.

July 15, 2018

Bleu de Chanel Parfum Review

I’ve noticed there’s a growing trend for men’s fragrances to be given the parfum treatment. So it’s no surprise to see Bleu de Chanel Parfum being launched recently. It makes even more sense when you consider that Bleu de Chanel EDT and Bleu de Chanel EDP have been phenomenal successes for the French luxury brand.

Both of these versions of Bleu de Chanel (created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge) are defined by their refined take on citrus and cedar notes, among others. While they have different emphases, they are not radically different fragrances. And so it is with Bleu de Chanel EDP, created by in-house perfumer Olivier Polge. It’s not a reinvention of this modern aromatic-woody classic, but it certainly offers a new dimension to it.

A STUDY IN BLUE: Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, at work in the laboratory. Image courtesy of Chanel.

SO WHAT DOES BLEU DE CHANEL PARFUM SMELL LIKE?

The opening of the fragrance pulls you in immediately, with addictive fresh notes of artemisia, bergamot, lemon zest and mint. It’s one of those openings you want again and again, so I have found myself doing more re-sprays than usual.

According to Fragrantica, there’s a pineapple note at the heart of this fragrance. I don’t detect this fruity aspect at all, but I do pick up hints of lavender and geranium.

“It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff!”

However, it’s the base of sandalwood (sustainably sourced from New Caledonia, we are told) that really sets this fragrance apart from its predecessors. It’s a grown-up, big boy treatment of sandalwood. Super-seductive stuff! Cedar is also present in the dry-down, which further enhances the woody character of this fragrance.

The Fragroom verdict? Bleu de Chanel Parfum is supremely smooth and elegant, with the creamy sandalwood sealing the deal. It will be another huge seller for Chanel. And justifiably so. Like all of the Bleu de Chanel iterations, it nails versatility, wearability and elegance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum, R1 655 for 50ml and R2 325 for 100ml.

April 6, 2018April 7, 2018

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense Review

When Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum was launched in 2001, it became another huge success for the French luxury brand. Recently one of the bloggers I follow on Instagram shared how it became her wedding fragrance and how much she was looking forward to trying the new Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense.

It’s easy to see why Chanel Coco Mademoiselle is so popular. Created by Jacques Polge, this floriental seduced a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli. Official listed notes of this fragrance include: orange, mandarin orange, orange blossom and bergamot (top). Mimosa, jasmine, Turkish rose and ylang-ylang (middle). Tonka bean, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, vetiver and white musk (base).

“This floriental seduced a generation of women with its contrasts of fresh citrus and sensual patchouli.”

SO WHAT DOES CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE EAU DE PARFUM INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

A Chanel fragrance launch (whether a new pillar or flanker) is always a bit of an event. And Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP Intense is no exception, with the powerful Chanel marketing machine buzzing away since its launch at the beginning of March 2018.

Ok, so first of all let’s make it clear that Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense is not a radical reworking of the original. It opens with the familiar citrus burst of the original. But Indonesian patchouli has been pumped to the max, with rose and jasmine in close support. The sensual aspect has also been heightened with Madagascan vanilla and tonka bean at the fore. This all adds up to create a more sophisticated scent, with a good balance of the fresh and the sensual.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense - Olivier Polge

PATCHOULI POWER: Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfumer. Image courtesy of Chanel.

Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfumer and (excuse my basic French) le fils de Jacques Polge, has created a worthy successor to Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP.

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense, R1 745 for 50ml and R2 475 for 100ml.

September 19, 2017September 21, 2017

Gabrielle Chanel Fragrance Review

Did the world move for you on 1 September 2017? More precisely, did you feel the perfume world move? After all, the most important perfume event of 2017 happened on this day. No, I’m not talking about the launch of Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous, although that was a close second. I’m talking about the worldwide launch of Gabrielle Chanel EDP. The fragrance industry has perfected the art of hype. And as far as hype goes, the first brand-new Chanel fragrance launch in 15 years (since the highly regarded Chanel Chance EDP in 2002) was fraught with expectation, hubris and debate.

In the month leading up to the worldwide launch and for the past three weeks, I deliberately avoided reading all reviews about Gabrielle Chanel. So apologies to all those fragrance bloggers whose notification mails I deleted. I didn’t want my thoughts on this fragrance to be influenced in any way by other opinions.

FREE STATE OF MIND: A family road-trip to escape the buzz and hype.

I decided instead to bring Gabrielle Chanel on a family road trip to the eastern Free State. To spend some time with it, on its own terms. I thought the Free State would be a fitting environment to do this, as this province of South Africa captures some of the qualities Chanel herself is renowned for. A pioneering and resilient spirit and an uncompromising style that can only come from suffering and endurance. Although the Chanel aesthetic is often associated with pearls and black dresses, Coco was never a prissy missy.

Gabrielle Chanel Fragrance Review - Portrait Of Coco Chanel

PIONEERING SPIRIT: A Man Ray portrait of Coco Chanel. Pic courtesy of Chanel.

So what did I learn about Gabrielle Chanel the fragrance from my relatively secluded time with it? Well, it’s clearly aimed at a new generation of younger women, who might find Chanel N^o5 “overpowering”, “old-fashioned” and “one of my mother’s favourites”. No doubt about it, this is Chanel’s big push for the “millennial” market.

The result is a modern scent that has a dominant heart of white florals (jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, orange blossoms). The listed top notes include mandarin, black currant and grapefruit, but I only picked up grapefruit from those. The floral heart is fresh and contemporary, albeit not particularly original, and eventually makes way for a more traditional base of sandalwood and musk notes. I enjoyed this more subdued element after the initial spark of white florals had subsided.

TREE OF LIFE: Gabrielle Chanel’s road trip included this vivid landscape.

While I am both male and 40-something (ahem, clearly not the target market), Gabrielle Chanel is very easy to wear, accessible and undeniably appealing. It will probably appeal to many other non-millennials too. And now for the big question…

IS GABRIELLE CHANEL A CLASSIC IN THE MAKING?

Mais non! And it doesn’t have to be. If the brief for Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, was to create a modern, elegant and luxurious scent, he has succeeded admirably.

I had no “classic” expectations of Gabrielle Chanel. After all, is it realistic to expect another iconic scent like Chanel N^o5? I was going to title this post “Keep Calm & Gabrielle Chanel” and perhaps that’s the best way to approach this EDP. If you have unrealistic expectations of it, you’ll probably be disappointed. If you can appreciate it for what it is, then it’s a very pleasurable, well-executed scent.

Either way, do expect a roll-out of Gabrielle Chanel flankers over the next five years, as Chanel has invested heavily in this new pillar fragrance and left no details to chance. The luxe packaging and fine-glass bottle alone will tell you that.

Gabrielle Chanel EDP, R1 745 for 50ml and R2 465 for 100ml.

Gabrielle Chanel Fragrance Review - A Portrait of Coco Chanel

VISIONARY: A portrait of a young Coco Chanel, taken in 1909. Pic courtesy of Chanel.

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