Sisley: The Family Way

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

In an increasingly corporatised fragrance world (whether niche or designer), Sisley stands out for all the right reasons. Acquired by husband-and-wife Hubert and Isabelle d’Ornano in 1976, the Paris-based company’s first fragrance in 1977, Sisley Eau de Campagne EDT (also one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s earlier creations), set the tone for future releases.

Jean-Claude Ellena

IMAGE: Jean-Claude Ellena.

Almost 50 years later, there’s no doubting the central role the family play in Sisley. Hubert d’Ornano died in 2015, but Isabelle is still active in the company, with son Philippe d’Ornano, the president of Sisley; daughter Christine d’Ornano, managing director; and Daria Botin, Isabelle d’Ornano’s granddaughter, head of Sisley’s in-house creative studio.

Hubert and Isabelle d'Ornano

IMAGE: Sisley.

This family approach gives Sisley a most appealing mix of continuity, eccentricity and non-conformity, which is also reflected in many of the names and inspiration of several scents.

D'Ornano Family

IMAGE: Sisley.

Oud, gourmands and any other fragrance trends? Apologies, you won’t find those in the Sisley world. But what you will find is a quintessentially French approach to luxury – fragrance as an expression of culture – akin to Hermès, if you will.

The brand gets my utmost respect for not churning out perfume products several times a year, every year. This gives me the distinct impression they’re in the business of luxury for the right reasons.

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

Another plus: their collaborations with artists, many of whom are family friends. For example, the commissioned work of Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof was turned into the top for the bottle of Sisley Eau du Soir EDP (more on this fragrance below).

This passion for and support of the arts is reflected in their Trois-Cinq Friedland cultural programme (situated at the company HQ in Paris) and the Sisley Beaux-Arts de Paris Award for Young Creators.

Sisley Eau du Soir EDP

And now my thoughts on some of their fragrances below:

SISLEY EAU DU SOIR EDP

One word to describe this 1990 release created by Jeannine Mongin: enchanting. But such is the beauty of this scent inspired by Isabelle d’Ornano’s childhood memories of the Alcazar Palace gardens in Spain, I’ll elaborate more.

Sisley Eau du Soir EDP

The citric freshness via grapefruit and mandarin orange makes way for a bouquet that showcases the richness of the white floral syringa. Rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang are in the floral mix too, with black pepper spicing it up and juniper laying on the fresh aromatics. Oakmoss (pushed to the legal max) and patchouli bring earthy woodiness to the drydown, with musk completing this sensual treat.

It’s old school and timeless at the same time. Which means I can’t get enough of it.

Sisley Eau du Soir EDP

SISLEY SOIR D’ORIENT EDP

The use of the term “orient” is now flagged as a “sensitive geopolitical reference”, according to my Microsoft review feature. This could be problematic for a whole genre in perfumery which relies on the use of this word to conjure all sorts of olfactory imagery.

Fortunately, there’s no problem whatsoever with this 2015 release created by Olivier Pescheux.

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

It’s all about a silky Turkish rose infused with the smoke of incense and warm spiciness of black pepper and saffron. What’s that greenery lurking in the background? It’s galbanum treated with admirable restraint. The aromatics of geranium makes an appearance, too, and then settles with creamy sandalwood and musky patchouli.

An oriental, indubitably, in a super-sophisticated style that reminds me just how good a perfumer Pescheux was before his untimely death in 2023.

Sisley Nuit d'Orient EDP

SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’HUBERT EDT

From the Les Eaux Rêvées Collection (launched in 2023 and inspired by the various generations of the family), this Alexis Dadier creation is everything I want a green fragrance to be: fresh, sharp and uncompromising.

The initial greenery is expressed through a number of herbal notes: mint, buchu (the South African plant) and shiso (the Japanese mint). As the fresh spiciness softens, the aromatics of geranium (almost grassy) comes through, with dry woodiness from papyrus. The woodiness continues through to the drydown featuring earthy notes of oakmoss and patchouli. It’s almost fizzy. Perhaps the listed Ambroxan at work?

If you’re new to greens, be warned: this EDT will be too much for you. 

Sisley L'Eau Revee d'Hubert EDT

SISLEY L’EAU RÊVÉE D’IKAR EDT

After the sharpness of Sisley L’Eau Rêvée d’Hubert, this one may seem relatively subdued. I’m glad I stuck with it, as it has its own abundant merits and more complexity.

Sisley L'Eau Revee d'Ikar EDT

Starting softly with fresh citrus notes of lemon and bitter orange, it builds up to resinous, almost waxy mastic (also known as lentisque), with iris softening the edges with a teeny-weeny hint of sweetness in the background. The drydown is earthy in character, courtesy of vetiver and labdanum, but isn’t heavy.

A Vincent Ricord creation that reveals elegantly sniff-me nuances with each wearing.

Sisley L'Eau Revee Duo

DID YOU KNOW?

* Sisley was originally co-founded by Jean-Francois Laporte (of L’Artisan Parfumeur and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier) fame.

* According to Forbes.com, before acquiring Sisley, Hubert d’Ornano launched Orlane with his father and brother in 1953, which they sold in 1968. Hubert’s grandfather Guillaume co-founded Lancôme in 1935 and sold his shares in the 1950s.

* Sisley is highly regarded for its premium skincare, make-up and hair products, and luxury spas in destinations such as Paris, London, Milan, Mykonos, Doha and Mauritius.

* Isabelle d’Ornano gave access to writer Christiane de Nicolaÿ-Mazery and photographer Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe to capture her living and work spaces for the coffee-table book, What a Beautiful World!: The Designed Spaces of Isabelle d’Ornano (Abrams, 2022).

What A Beautiful World Book

IMAGE: Christina Vervitsioti-Missoffe.

Sisley fragrances are available in South Africa from selected Woolworths, Arc and Edgars stores.  

Perfumed Travels: Diptyque Eau Capitale + Lady Hamilton Hotel Review

Diptyque Eau Capitale

Judging by all the online reviews I am seeing (and avoiding reading, in case I’m influenced by them), Diptyque Eau Capitale is the first big niche release of 2020 (although it was officially launched late last year).

I was recently in Cape Town for business and brought Diptyque Eau Capitale with me as my fragrance companion. There’s nothing like spending uninterrupted time with a perfume to really get a proper sense of it. It’s kind of like spending time away with a partner – for better and for worse.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

INSPIRATION

Since its founding in 1961, Diptyque has been synonymous with Paris and all its unique facets of arts, culture, literature and architecture. With Diptyque Eau Capitale, the niche fragrance brand is at last paying tribute to the city that’s such an integral part of its identity.

“Diptyque Eau Capitale is significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance.”

Diptyque Eau Capitale is also significant in that it’s the house’s first chypre fragrance. As part of its homage to Paris, the company thought it would be fitting to release a chypre – perhaps the most classical of perfumes, as epitomised by François Coty’s 1917 masterpiece.

SO WHAT DOES DIPTYqUE EAU CAPITALE SMELL LIKE?

Olivier Pescheux, who has produced several acclaimed scents for the brand over the years, including 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, Eau des Sens, Vetyverio and Tempo, was a natural choice to create this latest addition.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

MAISON FRIEND: Olivier Pescheux has created several successful fragrances for Diptyque. Image: Givaudan.

The intro to the scent belongs to the citrus hues of Italian bergamot. It’s fresh, zesty and slightly bitter in all the best ways. A twist of peppercorn brings spicy rosiness to the proceedings, setting the scene for the full-on heart of rose. Sourced from Turkey and Bulgaria, this is no lady-like take on the queen of florals. It’s rich, fruity, in full bloom, almost dirty. Ylang-ylang from the Comoros, not usually known for its sedateness, is very much in the background. For the drydown, Pescheux maximises the deep, dark and earthy qualities of Indonesian heart of patchouli and Haitian vetiver.

Some people are comparing Diptyque Eau Capitale with the Frédéric Malle tour de force Portrait of A Lady, not always favourably or fairly. Perhaps, because they both have dominant notes of rose and patchouli. These are very, very different fragrances and should be judged on their own merits. It’s not an either/or situation. Diptyque Eau Capitale stands out in its own right.

If longevity and sillage are priorities for you when buying a perfume, this EDP won’t disappoint. It’s one of the most potent I’ve smelled in a long time.

The fragrance proved to be the perfect travel partner. Present and engaging, but not suffocating. Intriguing, multi-dimensional and stimulating, yet approachable. Versatile and memorable.

Diptyque Eau Capitale is available at Skins Cosmetics. Look out for my interview with Olivier Pescheux in my next blog post.

Diptyque Eau Capitale

LADY HAMILTON HOTEL, GARDENS, CAPE TOWN

One of Cape Town’s most famous landmarks is the swanky Mount Nelson. Unfortunately, my blogger income wouldn’t allow me to set up temporary home at the five-star hotel. After some research, I came across another charming pink lady, in close proximity to the grande dame, the Lady Hamilton Hotel.

THE GRANDE DAME: The Mount Nelson Hotel.

Sure, this three-star hotel is a bit frayed around the edges, part of its charm I think. But it more than compensates with its:

  • Location, location, location – it’s close to buzzing Kloof Street, Table Mountain and the centre of the city.
  • Amiable and helpful staff.
  • Tasty buffet breakfast (included in the rate).
  • Facilities such as free WiFi, bar and complimentary tea and coffee in the lounge;
  • Pool area – although I didn’t actually do the water baby thing, I spent my downtime getting horizontal on one of the deck chairs.

Apart from providing a comfortable base for my Cape Town trip, the Lady Hamilton Hotel also provided a fab boho-colonial setting for the Diptyque Eau Capitale pics featured in this post.

Disclaimer: I paid for two nights (R890 per night on a bed and breakfast basis) for a standard twin room with shower at the hotel and was given one night free in exchange for coverage on my blog. For more information on the hotel and bookings, read here.

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

Five months into 2019 and the first BIG designer fragrance launch of the year is here. I am talking about the release of Montblanc Explorer EDP, the new fragrance pillar from the German luxury goods company.

I’ve been seeing many IG posts on this fragrance and recently attended a very lavish and exclusive launch event, which just affirmed how much money the brand is putting into this launch. I’m not one for predictions, but I reckon it’s a safe bet that Montblanc Explorer is set to be one of the fragrance money-spinners of 2019.

Montblanc Explorer EDP Review

PERFUMERS

A trio of top perfumers collaborated on this perfume: Antoine Maisondieu (Montblanc Legend Night EDP, Comme des Garçons Black EDT, Gucci Rush For Men EDT), Olivier Pescheux (Diptyque Tempo EDP, Paco Rabanne 1 Million EDT, Versace Eros Flame EDP) and Jórdi Fernandez (24 Gold EDT, Carner Barcelona Latin Lover EDP, Ex Nihilo Brompton Immortals EDP).

“All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal.”

All of these noses come with serious niche and designer fragrance credentials, and have a strong sense of commercial appeal. They were specifically chosen for this project due to their expertise in the three key notes of Montblanc Explorer: Calabrian bergamot (Maisondieu), Haitian vetiver (Pescheux) and Indonesian patchouli (Fernandez).

Montblanc Explorer Review - Jordi Fernandez

PATCHOULI EXPERTISE: Jórdi Fernandez is one of the co-creators of Montblanc Explorer EDP.

PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS

This smooth woody-aromatic-leather fragrance works well from start to finish. The Calabrian bergamot note sets the scene with its fresh, sunny and uplifting character. Notes of clary sage and pink pepper add aromatic interest.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Bergamot

CITRUS EFFECT: Calabrian bergamot is one of the key ingredients of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

The Haitian vetiver brings the unmistakeable qualities of earth, grass and smoke. This is supported by a hint of leather. The earthy character is emphasised by a double dose of warming patchouli and ambery ambroxan.

Montblanc Explorer EDP is highly versatile and can be worn to the gym, the office, a nightclub or on a date night. It’s also not season-specific. Just another reason why Montblanc Explorer will be a huge success.

Montblanc Explorer Review - Vetiver

EARTHY: Haitian vetiver is at the heart of Montblanc Explorer EDP. Image: Givaudan.

PACKAGING 

A lot of thought and craftsmanship has gone into the design of the bottle with its leatherish sheath. The solid and substantial spherical bottle was designed by well-known South African fashion designer-turned-industrial designer Mark Eisen, who also designed the award-winning Dunhill Icon bottle.

Montblanc Explorer Review

VERDICT

It’s elegant and masculine stuff with good performance and sillage. If compliments are important to you when you wear a fragrance, look no further. I wouldn’t say Montblanc Explorer is particularly adventurous or innovative, but it is very well crafted and easy on the nose. Expect to smell it a lot this year and no doubt there will be a rollout of flankers over the next few years. Although officially aimed at men with a sense of adventure (which sounds like an awful lot of fragrances), this is a genuine crowd-pleaser and will appeal to a large demographic.

Montblanc Explorer Review