Tag: OLIVIER CRESP

Posted on

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense: The Making Of A Gourmand Hit

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense

I don’t like making predictions so early in the year (it’s only May, after all). But I’m willing to put my reputation on the line for Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense as one of the most popular. The 2023 release from the United Arab Emirates-based brand is everywhere at the moment.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense

PERFUMERS

Father and son Olivier Cresp and Sébastien Cresp teamed up for this scent.

You don’t get more accomplished than Olivier Cresp, the master perfumer behind the gourmand-pioneering Mugler Angel EDP (1992).

He also created Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001), Versace Man Eau Fraiche EDT (2006), Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011), Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium EDP (2014) and Parfums de Marly Sedley EDP (2019). We can thank him (and colleague Nathalie Lorson) for maintaining the consistent quality of the Gentleman Givenchy range. In 2018, he launched his own niche brand, Akro, with his daughter Anaïs Cresp.

Mugler Angel EDP

While not as well known as his father, Sébastien Cresp is also making his mark in the world of fragrance. His creations include Bath & Body Works Toasted Praline & Pear Fine Fragrance Mist (2019), Confessions of A Rebel Morning After EDP (2021) and Nissaba Provence EDP (2023).

See my interview with the creators of Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense at the end of this review. FYI: the number 33 refers to the amount of formula modifications that went into the creation of the perfume.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - Olivier & Sebastien Cresp

IMAGE: Firmenich.

INSPIRATION

“I wanted to combine my two favourite indulgences, fragrance & gelato! Ever since I can remember, ice cream has been my favourite food and always my #1 choice when asked what would be my last meal!

“In 2014, I went on a trip to Rome with my sister Alya and discovered pistachio gelato – I have been OBSESSED ever since! Just like the dreamy dessert, I wanted to create something that made me feel yummy, happy and irresistible!

“Working with Olivier Cresp (a world-renowned perfumer who is often credited as the ‘father’ of gourmand fragrances) and his son, Sébastien, was SO exciting. With every delicious spritz, you’ll feel like YOU ARE the dessert! – brand founder Mona Kattan

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - Mona Kattan

IMAGE: Huda Beauty.

SO WHAT DOES KAYALI YUM PISTACHIO GELATO 33 EDP INTENSE SMELL LIKE?

It makes an impression right from the start. Pistachio can be a salty, savoury note but here it’s given the sweet gourmand treatment with an ice cream(y) accord that features the crisp citrus tones of bergamot and the additional woody nuttiness of hazelnut. The combo of cardamom and rum brings an element of spicy booziness to the treat.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense

There’s some floral-fruitiness in the mix too, but I’d be hard pushed to identify any specific notes. Nevertheless, it enhances the fresh aspect of the scent.

It’s in the drydown that Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense comes into its own. There’s a whole lot of powderiness via marshmallow, cotton candy (the synthetic ethyl maltol at work here, well known for its use in Mugler Angel EDP and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540) and a Turkish delight accord. I like how the latter gives a nod to brand founder Mona Kattan’s Middle Eastern heritage and reinforces the pistachio-ness of the composition (the nut is an integral part of the confection).

Most of all, though, it’s the whipped and sandalwood creaminess blended with vanilla-ish tonka beans that leaves a lasting impression.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense

As with many fragrances from the company – for example, Kayali Vanilla 28 EDP (2018), Kayali Déjà Vu White Flower 57 EDP (2020), Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 EDP (2021) – it’s unashamedly on the sweet spectrum.

Beauty entrepreneur Mona Kattan (Kayali falls under the Huda Beauty umbrella) is very in tune with what consumers want from their fragrances: boldness, distinctiveness and pleasure. And Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense delivers in all those ways. Yes, it’s being hyped, but that doesn’t stop it from being a delicious scent. Anyone looking for crowd-pleasing upliftment and escapism with addictive sugariness will appreciate this one.

Kayali fragrances are available in South Africa from Arc Store.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense

INTERVIEW WITH OLIVIER CRESP & SÉBASTIEN CRESP, THE CREATORS OF KAYALI YUM PISTACHIO GELATO 33 EDP INTENSE

 I go behind the scent scenes to find out more about the creation of the hit.

Is this the first time you’ve worked together on a fragrance?

Sébastien Cresp (SC): No, my father is my mentor and [role] model since my childhood, so I obviously always discussed his trials [perfume tests] a lot with him. Naturally, when I became a perfumer, we started to share ideas, giving input to each other.

I love working with my father because when we share our ideas, we directly confront our points of view, and above all, we understand each other immediately. This creative dialogue between us is an extremely enriching experience for me.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - Olivier & Sebastien Cresp

IMAGE: Firmenich.

Olivier Cresp (OC): We are collaborating more and more together; we have already signed several fragrances together [for example: Aerin Lauder Rose de Grasse Pour Filles EDT (2021), Victoria’s Secret VS Him Deepwater EDP (2021) and O.U.i Original Unique Individuel Jardin de Grasse EDP (2021)].

It is a pleasure to exchange and discuss our ideas. Sébastien is very creative, and I enjoy working with my son. I am increasingly focused on passing on my legacy.

Aerin Lauder Rose de Grasse Pour Filles EDT

IMAGE: Aerin Lauder.

How would you describe the Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense creation experience? 

OC: Sébastien always leads me to explore new olfactive fields of possibilities, and Mona was also really challenging on her desire to create an ultimate gourmand fragrance.

She was involved in all stages of creation and challenged us on the pleasure that her fragrance should give. Mona wanted a perfume that pushed more and more gourmand as the different modifications went on. We shaped the notes together to achieve the result she wanted, an ultra-gourmand creation that makes your mouth water.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - Mona Kattan

IMAGE: Huda Beauty.

Did you have different ideas on how to execute this scent?

OC: The initial idea I submitted was to create what I called “a gourmand explosion”, a fragrance inspired by a dessert, built like a pastry with layers of different sweet and tasty notes, such as cacao, rum, cotton candy and vanilla.

“Our internal code name for this project was ‘Yum’ and when Mona read it on our sample, she felt like it was the perfect name.”

SC: Then Mona talked about her love for pistachio gelato and I had this idea to turn my father’s initial formula into a sweet pistachio ice-cream by adding, of course, a pistachio accord but also more milky notes. Our internal code name for this project was “Yum” and when Mona read it on our laboratory sample, she felt like it was the perfect name to describe this fragrance.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - Olivier & Sebastien Cresp

IMAGE: Firmenich.

How did you get this fragrance to be so creamy? Any particular ingredients?

SC: We started with an aroma formula to translate the pistachio as close as possible to the edible version with its mouthwatering dimension. We combined the STT (Smell the Taste) pistachio with milky notes to reinforce the creaminess, the lightness and obtain the “pistachio gelato” effect.

There is indeed a feeling of a fluffy creaminess, very enveloping, which is the result of the association of the main three unique ingredients: a cotton candy accord, a Marshmallow STT and a Chantilly STT.

STT means “Smell the Taste”, a technique drawn by the expertise of Firmenich flavorists for perfumers and their creations to express tastes into fragrances.

The Marshmallow STT is a gourmand, creamy and slightly powdery note, while the Chantilly STT offers a light and fresh note of fluffy whipped cream. To boost its daring and liquorous effect, we blended it with rum for its fruity, oak woods undertones and Bourbon vanilla accents. This charismatic addiction is an original creation with a strong gourmand and sensual signature.

Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 EDP Intense - Olivier & Sebastien Cresp

IMAGE: Firmenich.

With your pioneering gourmand background, I must ask if you enjoy eating gourmand treats as much as you enjoy smelling and creating them?

OC: Of course! I’m lucky to live in Paris where I can enjoy the finest pastry. To be entirely honest, part of this fragrance was fed by the magnificent pastry “trompe l’oeil” of the chef Cédric Grolet, which created a pistachio cake, very sophisticated and texturized, that Sébastien and I discovered during afternoon tea-time at Le Meurice [the hotel where Grolet is the executive pastry chef].

Posted on

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue 20th Anniversary: An Interview With Its Creator, Olivier Cresp

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: Firmenich.

Even those with only a passing interest in fragrance will have heard of Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue. Launched in 2001, its evocation of the sun, sea and sensuality of a southern Italy summer has been a huge commercial success for the luxury fashion brand.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

A large part of its success is down to the expertise of Olivier Cresp. The French master perfumer has produced hits such as Givenchy Ange ou Demon (2006), Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling (2011), Versace Eros Pour Femme (2014) and YSL Mon Paris (2016). And let’s not forget the ground-breaking Mugler Angel, which kick-started all things gourmand in 1992.

Cresp was recognised for his numerous accomplishments when The Fragrance Foundation gave him the Lifetime Achievement Award in 2018.

He talks to Fragroom about Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue’s popularity, powerful formula and the latest iteration, Light Blue Forever.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Congratulations on the 20th anniversary of Light Blue. Why does it have such enduring appeal?

Thank you. I’m very proud to have created Light Blue.

The fragrance’s concept is universal: love. I am a romantic at heart; eternal love has always enchanted me. It did when I first created Light Blue in 2001 and it continues to mesmerise me today.

“It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is.”

It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is: the first look, kiss and moments together, as well as the milestones that come later: anniversaries, children and grandchildren. Timeless and contemporary, Light Blue has adapted to every generation over time.

Its popularity is linked with its luminosity and freshness. There’s something about Italy and, in particular, Sicily, a place of importance to the Dolce & Gabbana creators [Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana].

SOMETHING ABOUT SICILY: The Italian island is a place of importance to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Image: visitsicily.com.

Did you know you were onto a winner when you created it?

As perfumers, we never really know what’s going to be a great success. That said, Light Blue is one of my favourite creations and I have always believed in its power.

In some ways, Light Blue is a victim of its own success, because it’s so popular and therefore some people automatically dislike it. Does that bother you at all?

As soon as we started testing Light Blue, people’s reactions were nothing but positive; perhaps something about sharing this idea of love has created that effect.

I’ve never seen anyone reject this fragrance; it’s not a polarising one. In fact, I wear it often as it fits well on my skin, and I know other men wear it as well.

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

Light Blue is a great example of the use of synthetics and naturals. tell us more about that.

The fragrance has a powerful but minimalist formula. It’s composed of 25 ingredients, including a natural overdose of 10% lemon essence.

Featuring some wonderful captive molecules from Firmenich [the company he works for], the fragrance can be imitated, but never perfectly reproduced: woods, musks, amber and jasmine floral notes, as well as a crunchy Granny Smith apple. Without this harmony, the deep sensuality and unique light in Light Blue could not exist.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

The naturalness of the ingredients are prolonged by the innovative molecules. Together, the olfactive lightness gives you an infinite sensation of bright sunlight, crystal water, tanned skin and intense heat.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

SUN, SEA AND SKIN: Bianca Balti and David Gandy in the Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue ad. Image: dolcegabbana.com.

There’s been no shortage of flankers over the years. How did you approach the creation of Light Blue Forever to ensure it stays faithful to the original while offering something new?

I captured the joie de vivre and Mediterranean sensuality of Light Blue, and I enhanced the pillars of the perfume as if to multiply them tenfold: the essence of lemon, the apple, the white floral bouquet and the cedar. These are the olfactive threads that prolong eternal love in Light Blue.

For Light Blue Forever for Her, I insisted on the solar facets of the original fragrance, through both sparkling and luminous notes. I reinforced the floral heart with orange blossom to make it bloom bigger, without making it too dense or heavy.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

Finally, I used the latest generation of woods and musks to elevate and anchor the sparkling notes of the fragrance, enveloping the Light Blue signature with a contemporary sensual touch.

I wanted to make it very luminous and solar, inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and the orange blossoms found all along the coast. While there are still the lemony apple notes, the main accord is the orange blossom which brings strength, modernity, solar luminosity and warmth.

Did you have carte blanche in its creation, or was it a tight brief?

When we got the marketing brief from D&G, I did have carte blanche.  However, I don’t start from scratch because I must work from the original Light Blue.

“It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story.”

It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story. How do you improve eternal love?

The overall addictive sensation of Light Blue Forever, shaped around warm and multisensorial notes, is more universal, without crossing into gourmand territory.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

Image: dolcegabbana.com.

What’s next for Light Blue?

There is always another story of love to share. In fact, I am already working on the next one, but it must remain secret for the time being. However, I can tell you that even the next one will always be connected to the Light Blue masterpiece.

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense and Dolce & Gabbana Light Forever EDP are available at Woolworths.

 

 

Posted on

Interview with Olivier Cresp, 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award Winner

Olivier Cresp

IMAGE OF OLIVIER CRESP COURTESY OF FIRMENICH.

One of the great things about Instagram is how it can sometimes put us directly in touch with people we admire. A few months ago I decided to message perfumer Olivier Cresp on Instagram about the possibility of an email interview. I was super chuffed when he replied and agreed to answer a few questions. Unfortunately, this fell by the wayside and understandably so, due to his busy schedule.

When I read that Olivier Cresp was to receive The Fragrance Foundation’s 2018 Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award, I pushed my luck again for an email interview. Et voilà! With assistance from Firmenich’s communications department, I got my interview with the man himself.

Olivier Cresp

RECOGNITION: Olivier Cresp accepts his Lifetime Achievement Award at New York City’s Lincoln Centre in June 2018. This image and image below by Dia Dipasupil / Getty Images for The Fragrance Foundation.

This prestigious award is a fitting tribute to the perfumer who has given us trend-setting classics such as the gourmand-on-steroids Mugler Angel EDP (1992) and the fruity-floral summer classic Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT (2001).

Olivier Cresp

Born in Grasse, Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances. According to an interview on the Penhaligon’s website, his great grandfather grew roses and jasmine and his grandfather and father were raw material traders. His two siblings and his son Sebastien are also perfumers.

“Olivier Cresp comes from a family immersed in the world of fragrances.”

STAND-OUT FRAGRANCES

Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and has created (or co-created) many standout fragrances since then. These include: Christian Dior Dune Pour Homme EDT (1997). Cacharel Noa EDT (1998). Avon Today EDT (2004). Paco Rabanne Black XS EDT (2005). Givenchy Ange ou Demon EDP(2006). Nina Ricci Nina EDT (2006). Kenzo Amour EDP (2007). Carolina Herrera CH (2007). Jean Paul Gaultier Kokorico EDT (2011). Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling EDT (2011). Valentino Valentina EDP (2011). Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP (2014).

Olivier Cresp - YSL Black Opium EDP

More recently, he has co-created Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium and Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris (and their various flankers).

Olivier Cresp answered my questions about changes affecting perfumery, his fragrance style, fragrance favourites and collaborative projects. 

How has the fragrance world changed since you first became a perfumer?

The world of fragrance is always evolving and will continue to evolve. We can see that consumers are more and more interested in how a fragrance is composed, the ingredients and the story behind it. There’s an increasing accent on the origin of the raw materials and the perfumers. With globalisation, fragrances need to be loved by a lot of people from different cultures at the same time. This is a great challenge for perfumers.

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

TREND-SETTING CLASSIC: Olivier Cresp’s creation, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT, was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2016.

What did you want to achieve when you first started out as a perfumer?

I was literally born in to the world of perfumes. My family heritage introduced me to the “pure colours” of perfume since my childhood. I developed my olfactive memory during that time and a real passion emerged. I’m always on a quest for beauty, for a certain aesthetic. Once the aesthetic is found, I focus on its strength and unforgettable trail.

Olivier Cresp - Gentleman Givenchy EDT

MODERN: Olivier Cresp co-created Gentleman Givenchy (2017) with Nathalie Lorson.

What else do you still want to achieve as a perfumer?

My only objective when creating a fragrance tends to be making people feel happy and good about themselves. Above all, my work involves passion and sharing. I was named Master Perfumer in 2006 and I was also honoured with the title Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French minister of culture in 2012. I treasure coaching our younger perfumers, as I have been given so much during my entire professional life and I have a lot to share today. 

Olivier Cresp - Mugler Angel

GOURMAND ON STEROIDS: Mugler Angel was inducted into The Fragrance Foundation’s Hall of Fame in 2007.

What does an award like the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement mean to you?

It’s such a great honour and the ultimate recognition of my creativity and success. I’m so grateful and extremely happy to be acknowledged by my peers. I wouldn’t have dreamed of achieving such an accolade when I was a young perfumer. This wouldn’t have became a reality without the expertise and values of Firmenich. This award encourages me to continue to surprise the industry in the coming years, making my creations successes and even trying to discover again a new olfactive family.

Olivier Cresp - Gentleman Givenchy EDT

Has your fragrance style changed over the years?

I had the chance to begin my career during a dynamic and creative period. I knew several cultural influences due to the opening of a global market. The search for authenticity and high quality also truly modernised the world of fragrances and influenced my creations. Even so, I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas. Every day I have the ability to create from a palette of 400 ingredients. I prefer to use only 20 to 30 of them to understand them more deeply.

“I consider my style a minimalist one, because I am used to expressing figurative ideas through short formulas.”

Olivier Cresp - Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue EDT

Do you have any favorites among all the fragrances you have created?

The fragrances you create are a bit like your children: they are all different and they all hold a special place in your heart. If I would name only a few, I would highlight the two which set a new trend: Angel by Mugler and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana.

Olivier Cresp - Mugler Angel EDP

When do you know that a fragrance you are creating is perfect and needs no more work?

Creation is always a work in progress; I could put endless finishing touches on my fragrances. When creating a perfume I like, above all, the idea that people can see themselves in my creations and find happiness or what they are looking for. When I can see the smile on the face of the one who smells it, I know the fragrance needs no more work.

Olivier Cresp - YSL Black Opium EDP

You have collaborated on several fragrance projects (for example, YSL Mon Paris, Gentleman Givenchy, YSL Black Opium). How do collaborations like these work?

Collaborative work is becoming more and more usual, as it offers a lot of benefits for the creative process. We feel enriched by such experiences. More than a simple dialogue between creators, collective creative experiences enable natural synergies with the common desire to innovate and reach the best result. It is all about inviting new visions into the dynamic adventure. We are used to working as a team and sharing a real intimacy. Sometimes we are alone. Sometimes we also look for additional expertise from different regions for a more international perspective.

 Sources: Fragrantica.com, Perfumer & Flavorist, Penhaligons.com